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Painting is a universal way of finishing with a wide range of decorative techniques: from plain walls painted in any of the many shades to designer painting using stencils and patterns. However, any design idea can come to naught if there are cracks, drops and other defects on the surface of the walls for painting. The problem is that all the irregularities in the base are very noticeable when light from a window or other source falls on them at an angle. Puttying for painting corrects the slightest unevenness of the walls and gives them perfect smoothness. Thus, puttying is a very important process, but painstaking and takes a lot of time and effort. However, everyone can cope with it by showing perseverance in observing all the rules and technologies.

In this article, we will tell you how to get a perfectly even and smooth surface for painting, give tips that will help even an inexperienced master to do everything efficiently and beautifully.

It should be noted that not all surfaces are suitable for puttying. These can be plastered and plasterboard bases, walls and ceilings in monolithic and panel houses, provided that they are installed evenly and do not require alignment. But puttying bare brickwork will not work, since putty is applied with a layer of up to 15 mm, and a much larger layer may be required to level such a wall.

1. Types of putties

There is a huge selection of putties on the building materials market, which differ in different parameters.

By degree of readiness distinguish dry and ready mixtures. Dry mixesattractive low pricereadythe compositions have an ideal homogeneous consistency, do not take time for mixing, do not require additional tools and containers.

By application method allocate compositionsfor manual And machine application. The putty for mechanized application has a smaller fraction, a longer shelf life of the finished solution. It is used in large facilities to reduce labor costs and speed up the process.

In addition, putties differ in manufacturer , container type and packaging .

All these parameters rather determine the convenience of using putty in each specific case, and the main thing when choosing a material is the scope of its application. It can be a kitchen, a bathroom, or even a wall in an open gazebo, that is, a surface in conditions of high humidity and temperature changes. Or you need to paint the walls in the children's room, where the safety and hypoallergenicity of finishing materials is especially important.

The scope of the mixture is determined bybinder in its composition (cement, plaster or polymer). Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Thanks to the main componentcementputties are moisture resistant, which allows them to be used in rooms with a high level of humidity, for example, in bathrooms and kitchens. They have no analogues in strength. As a rule, cement putties are frost-resistant, so they are great for finishing facades, open balconies and window slopes. The relatively low price is another plus. The disadvantages of this material: the complexity of application, a long drying period and the ability to shrink.

Gypsumputties have a number of advantages: low cost, huge range, vapor permeability, hypoallergenicity, good adhesion to paints, wallpaper and other finishing materials, ease of application, no shrinkage. Such a putty sets quickly, therefore it requires a certain skill of application. With all the advantages, the scope of gypsum putty is limited to heated rooms with a normal level of humidity. So, it is ideal for bedrooms, children's rooms and living rooms.

IN polymeric With astringentAcrylic resins or latex are used as materials. Only this type of putty is sold both dry and ready-made. The range includes models that can be used in both dry and wet areas. For example, dry polymer puttiesProspectors Finishing Plus And Founds Ecosilk PP38W for rooms with any level of humidity, and the finished polymer puttyDanogips SuperFinish only for dry rooms. Polymer putties fit well on gypsum board substrates, can be applied in an ultra-thin layer, reducing material consumption. Mixes are supplied in airtight plastic buckets that can be stored for a long time even in a humid environment, unlike gypsum and cement, whose paper packaging gets wet easily. The price of polymer putties is much higher than gypsum and cement putties. But the wide choice, the comfort of use and the guaranteed high quality of the puttied surface will justify the investment.

So, we figured out the scope. We found out that only cement putties are used in outdoor work. For wet rooms, you need to choose from cement and polymer compositions. And for dry rooms, any putty is suitable, but gypsum or polymer are considered the best option.

Remains deal with the wallsin these very premises, namely -how even are they?. There is a division of putties by appointment: for starting(basic), finishing And universal.

1.1. Starting putty

Starting (or base) putty is used to level significant surface defects. Its features are large particle size (coarse grinding), crack resistance, the ability to apply it in a thick layer (up to 12-15 mm). This is an inexpensive dry mortar, usually cement-based (for example,Prospectors Basic gray, 20 kg with layer thickness up to 8 mm) with a long period of complete drying (usually 24 hours). Using the rules and beacons, you can use it to fix the gross flaws in the plaster. The base layer is not ideal and is not suitable for further painting, because, firstly, it is gray in color (since the basis of the mixture is cement), and secondly, it is too rough. Therefore, after complete drying, a layer of finishing putty is applied to the starting layer.

1.2. Finishing putty

The finishing putty has a fine-grained structure, which allows it to be applied in an ultra-thin layer. It is not allowed to apply such putty in thick layers - the maximum layer thickness is 3-4 mm. It is easy to work with this material, thanks to its good plasticity and softness.

Finishing putty for painting can be finished polymer (such asProspectors Superfinishing Paste, 15 kg with application thickness from 0 to 2 mm), dry cement (Weber Vetonit VH, 20 kg with a layer thickness of 1 to 3 mm) or dry polymer (Knauf Polymer Finish, 20 kg with a layer thickness of 0.2 to 4 mm).

1.3. Universal putty

Using two types of putty can be a difficult task for a novice master: you need to choose the right matching materials, correctly calculate the required amount, spend time drying each layer twice, and also financial costs. To simplify the task, universal putties are called upon, which have an average grinding and incorporate the best properties of starting and finishing mixtures. With their help, it is easy to make the surface for painting smooth (although you have to grind more), and a layer can be applied if necessary up to 1 cm.

Universal putty is suitable for both types of work, but more often itused to close the joints of sheet materials (GKL, GVL, PGP, chipboard and others) or seal cracks and holes.

Gypsum compositions are universal (for example,Knauf Fugen, 25 kg with a layer thickness of 1 to 5 mm) and polymer (Prospectors PolyArt super white, 20 kg with a layer thickness of 0.2 to 5 mm).

2. What you need to know about preparation

So, we figured out the varieties of putties and chose the right material. It remains to prepare the tools necessary for the work and prime the walls.

2.1. Working tool and materials

Properly selected tool plays an important role in obtaining a quality result. For priming and filling the walls you will need the following: tools :

Wide roller for applying primer to walls;
Brush for priming corners and joints;
Construction mixer, electric drill or perforator with a mixer nozzle for mixing the solution;
A bucket for stirring and a brush for cleaning it after each batch;
Rigid large spatula (width 30-35 cm) for quick and even filling of large surfaces;
Flexible small spatula (about 10 cm wide) for finishing hard-to-reach places and for applying the mixture on a large spatula;
Corner spatulas for surface treatment in the outer and outer corners of the room;
Rule length from 1 to 3 meters depending on the area;
Bubble level, plumb line and construction pencil for marking;
Sander, fine-grained sandpaper or construction grater for finishing sanding walls for painting.

Necessary materials :

Selected putty;
Primer;
Perforated corner profiles to reinforce internal and external corners and arches;
Beacon profiles with a height from the sole to the crest of 6 mm or 10 mm for applying the starting layer, as well as dowels, screws and fasteners for their installation;
Serpyanka fiberglass mesh for puttying plasterboard joints and cracks in plaster.

2.2. Wall preparation before plastering

Before puttying, first of all, we clean the plastered walls with a hard spatula from the influx of plaster and particles of debris, after which we brush off the dust from the walls with a brush or broom. This will provide better adhesion of the soil to the surface.

To strengthen the corners, we install metal or plastic perforated corner profiles (corners) on them. We fasten them to the same putty, self-tapping screws or a construction stapler.

In drywall constructions, we close it with a fiberglass mesh and cover it with a special putty (Knauf Fugen ) joints between sheets, self-tapping screws, cracks and dents.

After the first layer dries, a second one is made, which aligns the seams in the same plane with drywall, after which the walls are cleaned.

After the primer has completely dried, it is recommended to apply it with a second layer. In this case, the walls will draw less moisture from the putty. Thus, the putty will harden more slowly, which will leave more time for its distribution and leveling on the surface.

3. Technology of puttying walls for painting

The walls are ready. We start to putty. Putty is applied in several stages: basic leveling, finishing and final sanding. This process takes a long time, since you will have to apply at least three layers and dry each of them completely.

3.1. Starting coat of putty

The initial stage of puttying evens out surface defects up to 12-15 mm deep, so the starting composition is applied in a thick layer.

Putty is applied to deep point surface defects (for example, joints of drywall sheets, places where self-tapping screws are screwed into drywall, cracks and dents), on top of whichlay fiberglass or paper reinforcing tape. Press it a little, but so that wrinkles and bubbles do not form. Leave to dry.

If there are deep irregularities over the entire area, then you will have to align with the beacons. Beacons can be installed in several ways. The fastest and easiest way to fix them on special clips (galvanizedKnauf Kremmer Clips or plasticMounts for lighthouses AriaStroy ). For this, in addition to beacons and clips, a puncher, dowels and self-tapping screws, as well as marking tools are needed. First of all, on the applied markup, drill several holes with an equal gap between them. Place dowels in them and tighten the screws so that their caps are in the same plane as the marking threads. Put the clips on the screws and fix the beacon itself in them.

We prepare the solution only after installing the beacons. Use a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle for this. Remember that gypsum putty has a short pot life, so do not dilute a large volume. In addition, if the puttying process is new to you, then regardless of the type of mixture, it should be diluted in small portions in order to adapt. It is necessary to have time to use up all the solution before it solidifies in a bucket.

Important! After each batch, wash the bucket thoroughly and clean it with a brush of hardened mortar particles so that they do not get into the next batch of fresh mortar and do not damage the coating.

When using beacons, we simply throw the first layer of putty between the beacons and smooth it out with the rule from the bottom up. As a result, air bubbles form on the surface. Smash them with a spatula, put putty on them dotted and again run the rule over the beacons.

Let's discover the secret of the perfect result: after 30-40 minutes after leveling one span, draw the rule from top to bottom. This action will even out the beacons, which sag a little during puttying.

In puttying work without beacons, apply putty with a large spatula. Pick up the mixture from the bucket with a spatula and apply the mixture from it to the large one. The optimal inclination of the tool is 45 degrees. The first time to remove the putty will not work.After applying a thick layer, wait about a minute and remove the excess with a clean spatula. In this case, there will be fewer furrows, and the mixture will not slip (as is usually the case on drywall).

After leveling, leave the surface to dry for several hours.

3.2. Finishing putty

Wash the tool thoroughly after applying the base putty. We will continue to work with them. The finishing puttying technique does not differ from the starting one, it is simply laid with a layer of no more than 3 mm.Hold the spatula at a 90 degree angle to the wall and apply enough pressure to apply the mortar. The result is an ultra-thin layer that will fill the smallest grooves.

We continue to putty until we get the most even surface for painting, after which we leave to dry.

3.3. Grout

After waiting for the complete drying of the putty, we begin to grind it. There is a manual and mechanized method.

mechanized waygrinding significantly speeds up the process, but the quality suffers (the line from the sandpaper remains). Before painting, you still have to go through the surface manually. In addition, the cost of equipment is quite high. Therefore, this method is suitable for professional craftsmen who regularly carry out repairs.

Advantages of the manual method - this is the ease of work and the availability of equipment. Grinding in this case is done with P180 grit sandpaper (for example,Skin Yoko Р180 on a fabric basis, 230×280 mm ) or abrasive mesh. In addition to them, you will need a grinding block (for example,Grinder with handle 230x105mm, STAYER ).

Important! To protect yourself from dust, be sure to wear a respirator, goggles, as well as protective gloves and a hat.

Carry out the work gently in a circular motion. You need to overwrite carefully, there should be no protrusions and roughness.

Advice: You can check the evenness of the walls using directional light from a lantern or lamp

At the end of the work, it remains to dedust the surfaces for painting with a vacuum cleaner and apply primer. And the walls are ready to be painted.

Building yard

How to putty walls for painting

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In what cases is finishing putty necessary? Wall preparation, rules for applying finishing putty, and details of how it is sanded with sandpaper.

Why do I need puttying the walls with finishing putty

Without this work, even after scrupulous processing of the walls, flaws will remain.

If it is planned to stick wallpaper with a rough texture on the walls, then such features will be invisible.

But if it is desirable to glue silk-screen printing, or wallpaper made of fabric or with a small print, then the absence of finishing putty will emphasize irregularities and defects.

Is it necessary to apply a finish on previously treated surfaces?

It is better to apply the finishing putty, even if the wall has already been processed and seems even and smooth. If you apply a white solution to the wall, then stains will definitely not appear on the wallpaper.

Do-it-yourself finishing plastering of the walls

Finishing putty is the final work of preparing the walls. In the future, the walls are painted with paint or wallpapered.

Wall preparation

Before filling the surface, strong irregularities must be removed. It is for this purpose that plasterboard structures are installed or the wall is plastered.

The next step is priming the surface. It improves adhesion. After drying, you can proceed to putty.

For pre-treatment of the surface, starting mixtures are used.

It is convenient to use two spatulas of different sizes. One of them should have a length of up to 50 centimeters, and the second - only 10 centimeters. A small spatula will make it easy to work in hard-to-reach places and in corners. A large tool will allow you to get less tired in open areas of the wall.

Features of work on puttying:

Do not mix too much putty. Over time, it tends to dry out. The optimal volume is the amount for one hour of work.
Putty should be applied in several layers. Professionals apply at least three layers, which makes it possible to achieve the perfect result. The coating is durable and reliable.
Putty from the corner and gradually align the wall towards the center.

How to apply

If you plan to apply paint or wallpaper on the wall, then you need to apply a layer of finishing putty on top of the starting layer, as it will straighten the walls as much as possible.

Step-by-step application of finishing putty:

The substance is applied in a thin layer to ensure the evenness of the walls and save on costs.
To reduce the consumption of the mixture, it is also necessary to make the walls as even as possible when applying the starting putty.

If there is a dry mix, then you must strictly follow the instructions. Pour a small amount of water into the container, pour the building mixture, mix thoroughly. Then mix using a special mixer, gradually adding water to the container.

When working on a wide spatula with a small spatula in small portions, you need to put the finishing putty. After it is evenly applied to the wall with a very thin layer, about 1.5-2 mm.

Then wait until the layer is completely dry.

Before applying each subsequent layer of finishing putty, it is advised to coat each previous layer with a primer.

You can apply 3 layers.

After the finish layer has dried, it is necessary to level the surface with a sanding net or fine-grained emery.

First, to grind the surface, use grit 60, and then change the emery, take grit 120.

For grinding, you need to carefully examine the wall. Notice the biggest flaws. To achieve the ideal result, it is necessary to use building lights that direct a powerful stream of light directly onto the wall. This will allow you to detect any emerging shortcomings in time and eliminate them. As a result of bright light, shadows from wall protrusions or depressions become visible on the wall. These shadows must be outlined with a pencil.

The wall should be sanded, starting from the corner. Then they move from top to bottom, first cleaning a strip 1 m wide. After complete grinding of the strip, they begin to grind the next strip. They clean the wall with emery, making spiral movements. Do it carefully, without much effort. Do not press hard, otherwise holes will appear in the putty.

How much dries

There are 3 types of finishing putty for sale: based on cement, gypsum and polymers.

The composition based on cement or gypsum dries in almost the same time, but the polymer mixture dries after a longer period of time.

The cement-based composition is used where there is increased humidity, for example, in kitchens and bathrooms. For the facade of the building, it is better to use a cement-lime-based putty. As a rule, such putty dries for 1-2 hours, but if the work is carried out outdoors, then it depends on the season.
The gypsum-based composition is used in rooms where the humidity is low, its drying time is 2 hours.
But the drying period of the polymer putty is up to a day.

The putty itself hardens quickly, but it still needs to evaporate moisture. Therefore, a very thick layer can dry from 2 days to 2 weeks. But it is better to apply it with a thin layer of 1.5-2 mm.

What to do after drying

Then the walls are painted. You can also wallpaper them.

Is it possible to immediately level the walls with finishing putty

Finishing putty can eliminate only the smallest defects. Therefore, if the walls are uneven, then a pre-starting putty must be applied to them in order to cancel large cracks.

If in the past, during repair work, putty was often not carried out, but today it is a mandatory process. Modern high-tech finishing materials allow you to perform all the work yourself. At the same time, you will save on the services of professionals and get a high-quality result.

Applying the tips from this article will help you do the job efficiently and without flaws. The main thing is not to rush, and follow the application of all recommendations.

Useful video

Puttying the walls is carried out as the final operation of their preparation for wallpapering and painting. Although modern plastering technologies and materials are capable of producing surfaces suitable for any type of finish, work of this level is very expensive. Therefore, the walls are still being puttied, especially since do-it-yourself puttying of walls is not among the complex and especially responsible works.

Puttying the walls on your own is advisable for the following reasons:

Painting and gluing - lightweight types of finishes; in a dry, fungus-free and flooded room, putty allows you to level and smooth the walls without complex and expensive re-plastering.
The putty can be redone many times, finished, eliminate flaws on it from inability without reducing the final quality of the coating.
Putty materials are inexpensive, not difficult to work with, and their consumption is low.
Plastering home-made curvilinear interior elements from drywall is impossible on its own, and extremely expensive to order; puttying them is no more difficult than puttying walls.
The price of work on puttying walls by a hired team is comparable to the cost of plastering, and may even exceed it.

The cost of puttying works is worth talking about especially.

putty price

For putty 1 sq. m walls, construction organizations appoint from 70 to 90 rubles / sq. m. m. It seems to be cheap and cheerful, but if it comes to a contract, various subtleties appear, such as irregularities of more than 3 mm, heating radiators, slopes, the same arches. As a result, if the plaster was not done by these masters, below 250 rubles per sq. m does not come out, and this is the price. Especially bad for do-it-yourselfers: “Did you plaster yourself? 400 per square without a guarantee (this is the price of plastering the ceiling) plus slopes of 130 per linear meter and corners of 90 for it.

But, maybe, if the old plaster is still strong, just a little beaten and worn, order patching? Calling the master - from 1200 rubles, plus he will choose the materials himself, plus work by the piece for the hole. All in all, even if you still have never heard the words “rule” and “trowel”, it is better to putty yourself. Puttying is from the category of work in the process of which they learn, and the skills gained will be useful for more serious repairs.

Speaking of words

Putty or putty - how to speak correctly? On the packaging in the hardware store it says this and that. Maybe it's for different jobs? Wouldn't be wrong.

Putty and putty are one and the same, and putty is correct, although academic dictionaries do not prohibit putty. The etymology (origin) of this word is not simple, but instructive, so for the sake of it it is worth a little distraction before work.

The original Russian mass construction is wooden. The cracks in the wooden walls before finishing were sealed with tarred tow - they were pucked. By the way, the tow was pushed tightly into the grooves with a special tool - a swab. Hence - to fawn. In modern Russian, this word has a completely different meaning, but how it came to such a life is a separate story.

With the development of stone architecture, a German tool appeared in the everyday life of finishers - a spatula (spathel; "spatchel" in Russian transcription), which, in turn, is a direct descendant of the Latin spoon (spatha). To distinguish the preparation for finishing stone walls from wooden ones, it turned out to be enough to add just one letter to the usual word, and putty appeared.

But then, it turns out, is putty still more correct? From a spatula! In the Romano-Germanic languages - certainly yes, but not in Russian.

It's not about which language is good or which is bad. In classical Chinese, the language of the most primitive, isolating type, great literature has been created. German can be very musical, just read Heine in the original.

The Romano-Germanic languages were formed under the strongest influence of Latin and follow the Roman principle "Rem verba sequuntur" - the word follows the thing. In them, calling the process according to the instrument is generally accepted, and the meaning in the context is obtained with the help of service words or their absence and the arrangement of words in the proper order.

The East Slavic languages developed independently and came from a process, an action. How the word "axe" got its sound and spelling is the subject of much study, but it comes from the concept of "cutting with a powerful direct blow", and not from "compact, strong, hard, sharp." This rid our language of articles, service and modal verbs and made it almost indifferent to word order (“yellow shoes” and “yellow shoes” - try to say the same in English), but extremely sensitive to the impact on the root of the word. The difference between an ax, a knife, a saber and a chisel is hidden so deep that it’s better not to go there without a mind. Neglect of this circumstance, especially in combination with the long-term influence of the West (owners - overlords, a large flow of illiterate labor migrants, etc.) can make an outwardly full-fledged and even melodious language viscous and inexpressive.

Specifically, in the case, the word “putty” organically enters Russian only in two cases: either it means that the operation is performed on the spatula itself, and not on it, or as a figurative expression. By analogy: the walls are laid out, not bricked; nails are hammered, not hammered. You can nail, but not a nail or a box; it is possible to thresh, but by destroying or dividing, and not by creating or gathering together.

The addition of "sh" to "paklevka" did not touch the root of the word, and its semantic load remained consistent with the essence of the concept being expressed. The use of “putty” in professional speech is justified as figurative: it already means that the plasterer is speaking, and not a mere mortal. In the same way, it would not be a mistake for a sailor to call a bench a jar and a toilet a latrine.

A note on linguistics: the Russian language has experienced the strongest influence of the East, but the local languages are of an incorporating type, the root in them is the holy of holies. Therefore, the Russian, having borrowed from the Tatars, which turned out to be useful, also survived the linguistic invasion without harm to himself and even with benefit.

Tool

The putty tool is similar to the plaster tool, but only externally, see fig. First, the blades of the spatulas should be thinner so that they flex slightly when the handle is pressed. This will allow simply due to the viscosity of the solution to obtain a thin layer of uniform thickness. It is easier to hold pressure than the gap between the bottom edge of the plaster falcon and the wall and its slope, so puttying does not require such fine skill.

Secondly, the blade of the spatula should be perfectly even (when buying it, they check it with a look along, like a cold steel blade) and smooth, preferably with rounded edges. The blades of expensive spatulas are cut out of the sheet with a laser, and those that are cheaper are carved with a stamp; their blade often comes out rough. You can direct it by walking a piece of fine sandpaper with a folded house. Price tags and labels are removed from the spatulas, washed off, and traces of Velcro are removed with 646 or 647 solvent.

Further, for grinding the walls after puttying with an improvised bar for an abrasive mesh, it is no longer enough: you need a mesh jointer (grater, holder) with clamps. Grinding with sandpaper, especially gypsum putties, is strongly discouraged: lumps of putty adhering to the sandpaper will scratch the coating.

Then, you will also need a plastic bucket, preferably a household one, with a bottom corner rounded inside. And most importantly, the puttying tool must be kept separately, completely clean, wiped with a clean, washed rag or microfiber before work, and washed clean and wiped dry after work. Not like cement from previous batches, but just dust and pile with hairs may not allow to bring the surface to perfection.

materials

What putty is better? Corresponding to the final goal of the work: the most expensive and high-quality acrylic costs about 300 rubles. per sack, which is enough for a typical living room, unless the devils on the walls were threshing peas. So you don’t have to worry about money for putty, but you need to figure out which one is which, which is suitable for what, and who does what.

Note: "starting" and "finishing" putties are just terms for brevity. Any putty is applied in two layers - leveling (starting); it may not be continuous, and integumentary - finishing.

Composition and purpose

Oil-adhesive putty

In modern construction and repair, linseed putties are rarely used to level walls.

The cheapest putties are oil-adhesive on drying oil. They are considered obsolete, but not because drying oil is harmful to health, this is not true. Drying oil is harmful to modern wall decoration, it is absorbed even into the strongest concrete and then stains through paint, except for oil, and wallpaper.

However, it is too early to discount the oil-adhesive putty: it improves waterproofing and protects the plaster with the surface layer of the base wall from being destroyed by fumes. Therefore, for basements, bathrooms, sheds and closets, kitchens, oil-adhesive putty is very suitable, especially since their walls are either lined or painted with oil paint technically, not decoratively.

Oil-adhesive putty is generally indispensable for wooden walls plastered along the chipping: it will protect the chipping crate and felt lining from rotting, and the nails from rust. Acrylic cannot do this, and wooden plastered walls will serve for a long time without losing their appearance, only under putty on drying oil.

Gypsum cement

Gypsum cement putties are slightly more expensive and are suitable for all general purpose finishing work. Produced in the form of dry mixes, kneaded on water. It is kneaded, and not closed, like plaster. Putties for residential premises are indicated by the indices LR and KR; for rooms with high humidity - VH. The purpose of gypsum-cement dry putty mixtures is, first of all, puttying walls for wallpaper. An overview of the most popular dry gypsum cement putties is given in the next paragraph.

Water dispersion

Water-dispersion putties are also gypsum-cement, but they are already mixed with a water-polymer emulsion and are sold in plastic buckets. They cost more than dry ones, but you don’t need to prepare them for work: dial and smear. It is only necessary not to forget the bucket open, otherwise the coating will come out fragile, although the mixture does not seem to set yet.

Water-dispersion putties have precisely maintained viscosity, due to industrial preparation, increased strength and smoothness. They are easy to apply, and when sanding, random jerks of the jointer do not eat out pits. Water-polymer putties can be confidently recommended to a beginner: with a more or less conscientious attitude to work, you can get a good wall for painting in three approaches.

Acrylic

Acrylic putties have all the advantages of the above (oil putty stands alone) and only one drawback: cheap low-quality paint does not adhere well to them, they are very smooth. If it’s not a pity to put a little money “on top”, then puttying with acrylic for painting is best.

Range

The most popular putty is Vetonit, but it is only suitable for wallpaper: open dust and rubbed even with a finger.

But it is cheap, and the champion in terms of efficiency: consumption - 1.2 kg / sq. m. The manufacturer is trying to remedy the situation by releasing Vetonit LR Fine (which gave rise to the myth of “starting” and “finishing” putties), but it is somehow suitable for painting only in dry, heated rooms.

Having become interested in Vetonit, one must remember that this putty, due to the content of a large proportion of gypsum, is water-reversible: when wet, it sags into a paste. But it fills the cavities well, and it is easy to remove it later, therefore it is optimal as a temporary option on the eve of a major repair.

Warning: do not try to fix the imperfections of Vetonit with a thin layer of durable putty on top. Vetonite is the weakest of putties, and nothing but it will hold firmly on it.

Putties KNAUF Uniflot and Fugagypsum are adapted for sealing joints and holes on drywall. They are also suitable for walls, both for wallpaper and for painting, but more expensive than others, and the consumption is about 1.7 kg / sq. m.

Eunice - putties of increased whiteness, mainly for painting; under the wallpaper is the reinforced composition of Eunice Kron (“Heavy Eunice”). Suitable for dry heated living spaces. They are smoothed out in the absence of experience with some difficulties, so that the consumption is not small, but in 3-4 approaches an attentive and diligent beginner can get a perfect surface. Eunice, perhaps, is the only really finishing putty - it needs a base from Knauf, but not Vetonite.

Domestic, more cement than gypsum, "Prospectors" are superior to KNAUF in their field. This sphere is external walls, basements, damp rooms. They are not very suitable for decorative painting, but the heaviest cladding is kept on them like a glove. Perfectly combined with "Hercules", see next.

"Hercules" - "basement" putty, for completely damp and "killed" walls. Due to its high adhesion and thixotropy, it is indispensable for sealing cracks and potholes in concrete. On rough, but not “humpbacked” concrete walls for sheathing, cladding and technical painting with “Hercules” with “Prospector”, you can sometimes do without plaster.

Putty works

Drywall

Puttying drywall is part of the technological cycle of drywall work, therefore.

General operations

Wall cleaning

If putty is made on old plaster, wallpaper and paint, of course, must be removed. To do this, use the appropriate washes according to the instructions. Then the room is dried (as a rule, this takes a day) and the walls are carefully examined; small residues are removed with a mounting knife or a thin flexible spatula (not putty!)

Terrain check

The relief of the walls is checked with a plaster rule and a flashlight: having applied the rule, they are illuminated casually against the wall. The slightest bumps and holes are visible at a glance. It is better to knock down bumps and sharp protrusions immediately with a planer or a sharp plastering spatula, and circle the holes with a pencil along the light contour.

Tool preparation

Immediately before work, the entire tool is thoroughly wiped from dust with a rag, washed with dishwashing detergent, and wiped dry with washed cotton rags or microfiber. It is good to wipe with household wipes such as Freken Bock, etc., but only new ones. Particular attention should be paid to the mixer for the drill and the bucket for kneading - lumps of the previous compositions, if found, need to be picked out.

kneading

How to breed putty? Very simple, but without shutting it gradually with water:

In a bucket of 1/4, if construction, or 1/3, if household, clean water is poured.
The mixture is poured (do not thump) with a jet until the top of the pile appears above the water.
Wait, from 5 to 25 seconds, until the pile is saturated with water and sags; dry lumps should not be visible.
Quickly, within 1-2 minutes, but thoroughly knead, it is highly desirable - with a drill with a mixer.
Wait another 0.5-1 min.
Knead again in the same way as the first time. Everything, the mixture is ready.

Warning: it is unacceptable to add either water or dry composition to putty mixtures. As it turned out, so we work. It's okay, putties are quite tolerant of the amount of water, and after drying, you can always rub it with an abrasive and grease it.

Note: before kneading, pay attention to the pot life of the mixture after kneading, and knead in batches to work out with a margin of 25-50% in time.

Flow set

Consumable portions of the mass are applied to a wide spatula with an average bed in order to be applied in one stroke.

Terrain leveling

Holes and cracks (bumps and “snot” are considered already knocked down) are overwritten either with a medium one, gaining consumption with a wide or wide spatula, depending on their size. The grout is carried out in sweeping movements across with uniform pressure until the mixture comes out flush with the wall without scuffing and sagging.

Pulling the spatula slowly and pressing down is a typical novice mistake. Any putty to some extent has thixotropic properties, and with a periodic equal impact from different sides, it will quickly disperse as it should.

Drying

When drying putty, it is necessary to apply a full range of precautions for drying plaster: drafts, direct sun, directed heat flows from a fan heater, hair dryer or electric heater are unacceptable. Cracks during drying are not so bad, but improperly dried putty can warp, and this will only come to light when painting or gluing.

Ventilation of the room must be provided internally, without noticeable air currents and temperature changes. That is, wide open the doors of the room, but not the balcony. In the hallway - open the doors to the living rooms, and close the kitchen, bathroom and entrance tightly.

How long does putty dry? In the instructions, drying times of more than 16 hours are not found; most often - 10-12 hours. But it is better to do grinding not earlier than in a day: we are self-employed, there is nowhere to rush, let the coating gain better strength. Work will be easier and smoother.

Putty for wallpaper

Under gluing putty first with a wide spatula in strips with an overlap of 10-25%. "Sausages" do not grind. The spatula is held at an angle of 20-30 degrees; the main thing is to get used to holding the pressure, then the layer will come out with a constant thickness of 2-4 mm. A smaller angle of the spatula gives a thicker layer, and vice versa, but within the specified limits, otherwise the layer will turn out to be either bumpy or torn.

Next, the putty is dried, the sagging is removed with an abrasive jointer and checked for evenness with a rule with a flashlight. If necessary, remove the bumps with an abrasive, and grease the holes. With complete initial inability, it may take up to 5 approaches until the wall is brought into the plane (to zero, as the builders say).

After bringing to zero and thorough drying, the wall is passed with a mesh jointer with a mesh number 80-120 (P80 - P120). The larger the abrasive number, the finer its grain. They pass first in a circular motion, and then with less pressure in a run (sweeping across) to remove circular traces.

Again check the rule with a flashlight. There are no reflections far beating from under it? Done, dry for another day and. "Ate" somewhere too much? Our song is good, went the next approach.

Putty for painting

It differs from putty under wallpaper by an additional operation: after zeroing and grouting with an abrasive, a finishing layer of plaster is applied; under enamels, especially acrylic ones - special, durable and white, see above. They already rub it with a grid of numbers of at least 150. For mirror painting, they also additionally polish it with a finishing plastering trowel with suede; felt and felt are not suitable. If the plaster was previously rubbed with a falcon, the suede covering must be replaced with a new one. Before the walls are primed for paint according to the instructions for it.

Video: putty lesson

Putty corners

Beginners are usually advised to leave excess material on the corners, and then finish with an abrasive. But, if something is supposed to be siliconized from a gun before puttying, the work can be greatly simplified, while at the same time increasing its quality.

Corrosive and vindictive linguists: silicone is a new word of independent origin. Its root has not yet had time to spread and give rise to concepts different from the original meanings. Therefore, silicone in Russian is completely legitimate, as well as foaming with mounting foam. A highly developed language is a delicate matter.

The suggested procedure is:

After the silicone is used up, we immediately disassemble the tube from under it, remove the remnants and wipe it clean with a rag, abundantly moistened with table vinegar.
When puttying, we leave the very corner free, as shown in the figure.
After the walls dry, we fill the tube with putty and squeeze its “sausage” into the groove; preferably - in one movement from the bottom up.
We pass with an angular spatula with support on the walls, as when plastering on lighthouses.
After drying, brush off the sags with an abrasive.

Note: if you don’t mind a little money, you can use a plastic confectionery syringe instead of a silicone tube. On gaskets made of microporous rubber or foam, with additional reinforcement with electrical tape, it becomes like a native in a pistol. The syringe also comes with a set of nozzles, so you can decorate the walls in the form of a cake or pastries, and then paint them.

Slope putty

Discussion:

How I liked the linguistic calculation about putty and putty! Even read. Especially the summary: the word “putty” is used by professionals for figurative purposes. Apparently, my mother-in-law, a theater actress, uttering “spreader” during repairs, thereby creates a double image of a professional plasterer and an intellectual.

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Puttying and leveling the walls is a mandatory measure for preparing surfaces for final finishing. The operation is designed to remove various irregularities, create a smooth and even, without deviations, coating that provides strong adhesion of paint or wallpaper to the wall. In order to properly putty the walls, it is necessary to choose the appropriate composition and follow the technology of the work.

Putty is a plastic material used for leveling surfaces (filling cracks, chips, potholes) and preparing them for applying a finishing material: paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster. The composition is a mixture of a binder base and filler, some types also contain plasticizers and hardeners that improve the properties of the product.

Can be supplied dry or ready to use.

Types of putties

Putty is divided into types according to:

appointment;
composition;
readiness.

By appointment

By appointment, solutions can be divided into three main groups:

starting;
finishing;
universal.

To find out which putty is better to putty walls, you should study the properties and scope of each type.

Home

Leveling putty for walls is intended for primary surface preparation. The composition contains large fractions, eliminates large defects (cracks, potholes, chips), is used for leveling. It has good adhesion to the base. The starting putty is applied in a layer up to 30 mm thick.

Suitable for concrete and masonry. The starting layer can be applied directly to the surface to be leveled or to the reinforced mesh. When leveling the walls with putty, the composition is applied in several layers.

Purpose:

filling voids between window frames or door jambs and the opening;
sealing of gate channels;
slope alignment;
sealing joints between reinforced concrete panels.

Finishing

This wall putty is used to prepare the surface for applying the finishing material. It is designed to create a base of perfect smoothness for paint, fabric wallpaper or other demanding materials.

The plastic composition fills the smallest cracks, thanks to small fractions it creates a thin even layer. As a result of applying the finishing putty, the wall is a smooth surface that does not require additional processing (grinding).

Universal

Mixtures of this type perform the functions of starting and finishing compositions: they are used to level the wall and create a flat surface. It is convenient to work with a universal solution: with one mixture you can eliminate all irregularities and prepare the surface for applying a finishing material. However, to create a well-leveled surface, it is recommended to use special compounds - puttying walls with universal mixtures brings the worst result.

Composition

Wall putties intended for interior work are divided into 4 types.

Compound	Purpose	Peculiarities
Gypsum	Used for application on walls or ceilings in rooms with moderate humidity (living rooms, corridor)	Advantages: fast drying, perfectly smooth surface, fire resistance, no smell, low price and ease of use. Suitable as a base for paint, thin delicate materials. Does not shrink and does not form cracks after drying. Disadvantages: when used in a room with high humidity, it changes its properties - it begins to swell, lags behind the surface. Does not tolerate mechanical stress
Oil-glue	Designed to putty walls made of concrete or wood, as well as plastered surfaces. Used as a base for water-dispersion, enamel and oil paints	Plastic quick-drying mass. It has the lowest price, but has significant disadvantages: instability to mechanical stress, poor tolerance of contact with water. Not recommended for finishing residential premises due to the presence of harmful components
Polymer	Suitable for gypsum, cement, polyurethane and other types of substrates	The composition with high plasticity and forming a durable coating. Puttying the walls with polymer compounds increases the sound insulation of the wall, creates a vapor and moisture-proof layer that protects the treated surface from mold. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Due to the high cost, it is not advisable to use for processing large area walls.
Cement	The application of this type of putty is recommended in rooms with high humidity and in unheated rooms.	Cement plaster is inexpensive, resistant to water and low temperatures. The layer is very durable. Among the minuses: shrinks, cracks may appear after drying

By readiness

Putty for ceilings and walls is available in finished form and dry.

Dry

The dry mixture is diluted with water immediately before the walls are puttied.

The advantages of such compositions:

less weight;
ease of preparation;
the ability to independently choose the desired degree of density;
low price compared to ready-made solutions.

Flaws:

The need to prepare the solution yourself. It is required to thoroughly mix the solution to a homogeneous state, which is impossible without a construction mixer.
Limited shelf life of the prepared mixture. After a short time (from 15 to 60 minutes, depending on the composition), it begins to harden and loses its properties. It is necessary to prepare it in small portions, apply the putty immediately.

Finished

Plastic mixtures supplied in plastic containers of different volumes do not require dilution with water and are ready to use.

The advantages of this type of solutions include:

better plasticity compared to dry mixes;
long shelf life (even after opening the container, they do not freeze immediately).

The main disadvantage is the high cost.

How to choose putty?

In order for puttying the walls with your own hands to bring the desired result, you need to choose the right mixture.

It is necessary to take into account:

Compatibility. It is advisable to use materials from the same manufacturer: primer, putty, paint or wallpaper paste. In this case, there is no risk of undesirable changes in building compositions in contact with each other.
Appointment. When looking for putty, it is important to consider the conditions in which it will be used (inside or outside the room, with high or moderate humidity, and more).
Finish type. To create a base for paint, it is recommended to use ready-made compositions - they are more plastic, form a high-quality, even surface without flaws. Puttying the walls with dry mixes is permissible if wallpapering is planned.

Putty application technology

Before applying putty on the wall, you need to prepare everything for work:

Drill or construction mixer. It will be needed if the choice is made in favor of a dry mixture. Manually mixing the composition qualitatively to a homogeneous structure will not work.
Plane. Required to remove protrusions and bumps in the process of preparing the surface for applying putty on the walls.
Spatulas. It is advisable to purchase a set of devices of different sizes - a wide one is used to process even open areas, a small one is used in hard-to-reach or at corners.
Spatulas for forming the outer and inner corners.
Building rule. They check the evenness of the surface obtained after leveling.
Roller and paint tray. Tools are needed for applying the primer. The use of a primer increases the adhesion strength of the putty to the wall, protects the latter from mold.
Grater or abrasive mesh. The device is used to clean the surface. The leveling putty layer is treated with a coarse-grained abrasive, the finishing layer is cleaned with a fine-grained one.
Primer.
Container for mixing the composition.
Broom and brush to remove dust from the cleaned surface.

All tools and containers should be thoroughly washed with liquid soap and wiped dry with a clean rag to get rid of dust and residues of other construction mixtures.

Having prepared the necessary tools, they proceed to puttying the walls with their own hands.

Surface preparation

The walls are cleaned of dirt and old finishing material: paint, wallpaper or plaster remains are removed. Apply a rule to the wall, bring a flashlight to it. Having found the protrusions, remove them with a planer.

After priming and thoroughly drying the surface (this may take a day).

Mixing the mortar

Do-it-yourself wall putty is prepared as follows:

A quarter of a bucket is filled with clean water.
Putty is poured with a thin stream in such an amount that a small hill forms above the surface of the water.
Wait a few seconds for the powder to swell.
Immerse the nozzle of the construction mixer into the container, intensively mix the composition for two minutes.
Stop working for 1 minute, turn on the mixer again for 2 minutes.

Important! After preparing the mixture, it must not be re-diluted with water. If the result is too liquid or, on the contrary, too thick mass, work with it. After drying, the surface can be leveled using a grater.

Applying the starting putty

It is recommended to widen the recesses, chips and cracks before applying the filling mortar a little, and scratch the inner surfaces with a knife so that the putty grabs better. Then, using a brush, apply a primer. When it dries, they begin to cover the defect: they take a small amount of the solution on a medium-sized spatula, apply it to the wall next to the problem area and smear it over the entire area of the pothole. Grouting is carried out with crosswise movements. In this case, do not hesitate or press the spatula too hard.

When the surface is leveled, putty the entire wall. You can do this in several ways:

to obtain a thick layer, a spatula with a solution is applied almost parallel to the wall;
to create a thin, millimeter layer - tilt at an angle of 60-70 °;
perfectly flat surfaces are puttied, holding the spatula at a right angle - so the mortar fills only scratches, small cracks and chips.

Plastered walls are puttyed in the same way - as a rule, all flaws have already been eliminated with plaster, and it remains only to apply a thin layer of leveling mortar. The only important condition is to wait for the mixture to dry completely: cement gains strength in 4 weeks, and gypsum hardens in 7 days.

After the first layer is completely dry, it is processed with a grater, removing stripes from the spatula, bumps and other irregularities. Then large pieces of putty are swept away with a broom, and the dust is removed with a brush.

If necessary, a second layer is applied and again cleaned with a coarse abrasive.

Application of finishing putty

The technology of puttying walls with finishing putty is almost the same as the starting one. The layer is applied to even sections of the wall with a wide spatula. The thickness of the layer is made no more than a few mm. It is important to carefully level the solution, trying to form a flat surface without bumps and protrusions.

After drying the first layer, the wall is treated with fine-grained sandpaper, grinding the surface to perfect smoothness. Next, a second and, if required, subsequent layers are applied.

Having understood how to properly putty a flat wall, you should learn how to process difficult areas: corners, slopes.

Corner processing

Wall putty technology at the corners:

First method. Carried out in 2 stages. First, the solution is applied to one wall at the junction, leveled in the usual way. After solidification, the same operation is performed with the other wall.
The second way. In the absence of experience, it is recommended to use a special tool - spatulas for forming internal or external corners. A putty is applied to the junction and a spatula is drawn over it, removing excess mortar and creating an even line.

Applying putty to drywall

Separately, it is worth considering how to putty a plasterboard wall:

Preparation. At the first stage of the wall’s work, it is necessary to carefully examine and eliminate all flaws: tighten the screws (but do not sink them so that depressions do not form), cut off all the delamination of the material at the joints and clean these areas.
Padding. Before plasterboard walls are plastered, they should be treated with a water-based primer. You should not use deep penetration compounds, as well as ignore this stage. Otherwise, mortar, paint, or wallpaper paste can penetrate deep into the drywall and cause the sheet to warp. The primer is poured into the paint tray, applied with a special roller. The layer thickness is not less than 0.03 mm.
Applying a leveling solution. A fiberglass mesh is glued to the corners and joints so that the junction of the two elements is located exactly in the center of the tape. The putty is applied with two spatulas about 15 and 30 cm wide. The solution is scooped up narrowly, applied to the seam. Distribute it wide along the entire joint line. Areas with self-tapping screws are closed with strokes crosswise.

Having learned how to properly apply putty on the walls on your own, you can prepare the room for finishing with your own hands - the process of leveling surfaces is not very difficult. Did you do this work, did you have any difficulties while doing it?

Wall priming, plastering, puttying are basic operations in the process of bringing surfaces to the stage of readiness for further painting or wallpapering. A simplified scheme of work is as follows: plastering, priming after plastering, puttying, grinding, coating with paintwork material or applying wallpaper. Puttying the walls after plastering is considered a finishing preparatory operation.

Even due to the fact that today plastering is provided with a wide choice of materials for interior and exterior decoration, and having done the work, you can achieve an ideal plane (there is no question whether it is possible to putty the walls, for example, after finishing with gypsum plaster - the procedure is not necessarily included in the order repair work) - the financial costs of such plastering work are extremely high.

The classification of putty materials was carried out according to several criteria. The sequence of grouping is determined by key factors and properties of putty, combining mixtures into the following classes:

Oil-glue. If you need the cheapest mixture - the group is suitable. It is not known whether oil solutions will continue to have a future, because they are already considered the last century. The main disadvantage is the manifestation of yellow spots through the paint layer and wallpaper.

Gypsum cement. Materials are much more expensive. Are intended for a full complex of finishing operations of the general orientation. In domestic products, most often, they contain more cement than gypsum. According to the cement and gypsum base, the main purpose of the powder was determined for the masters - having covered a layer of plaster with soil, you most likely putty the walls with the composition for further wallpapering.

Water-dispersion. Also from the category of gypsum cement, however, they are necessarily produced in a batch with an aqueous polymer emulsion, respectively, the container is a bucket. The advantage is that you do not need to study on the packaging what to do and in what proportion to dilute the putty - the products are already ready for use.

Acrylic. After puttying with a similar composition, all the advantages of the above groups (except for oil) will appear.

Workflow steps

Surface cleaning

When puttying the walls after the old plaster is done, the obsolete wallpaper and layers of paint must be removed. A special wash helps to eliminate the remnants of unnecessary material. After the manipulations, the walls should dry out - they are left for about a day.

Drying is followed by a thorough visual check: missed small parts are cleaned with a mounting knife or a thin spatula.

Relief inspection

The relief plane is examined with a flashlight, wielding the building rule: it is applied to the surface, the flashlight shines along the wall. The smallest depressions and protrusions are obvious. Rough bumps should be beaten off on the spot with a planer or a sharp spatula, and the notches should be marked along the contour with a simple pencil.

Related article: How to paint a brick wall

Instrument preparation

Before starting the repair process, the entire set of tools is scrupulously wiped with a rag from dust, washed with dishwashing detergent and dried with a thick cloth that does not leave fibers on the wiped objects. It is worth carefully making sure that there are no residues of solutions from previous batches on the mixer from a drill and a mixing container - lumps of old solutions need to be picked out.

Preparation of putty mixture

The process of preparing the solution is not complicated:

Running water is drawn into the container (the construction bucket is filled by a quarter, the usual one by a third).
Gradually fall asleep dry powder until the tip of the "iceberg" is above the water.
Wait up to 30 seconds until the powder absorbs water and sags: no dry formations should remain.
With a quick, measured movement, using a nozzle on a drill, kneading is carried out for 2 minutes. (a drill is preferred, but hand-drilling is also acceptable).
Expect 30-60 sec.
Re-mixing is done. The consistency is brought to the ideal - the solution is ready.

Under no circumstances should the finished solution be diluted with additional water or dry powder. We'll have to work with what we've got. In case of shortcomings, the putty composition will tolerate excess liquid, after solidification, it is always possible to walk around the area with an abrasive and do homework where necessary.

Do not forget about the shelf life of the finished solution after kneading: it is better to knead in several portions. Each portion is placed on a wide spatula with a smaller one, calculating the amount that will be needed for one stroke.

Relief leveling

Small recesses and cracks are covered with a medium or wide spatula, based on the size of the defect. Grouting is carried out with wide movements crosswise with the same effort to a flat surface without sags and burrs.

A common mistake among inexperienced craftsmen is to slowly, pressing, stretch the spatula. Putty of any brand is endowed with a thixotropic characteristic, which leads to a quick correct dispersal with periodic identical force exposure from several sides.

Related article: How best to decorate the walls in the bedroom: painting in different styles

On the video: the process of puttying the wall with your own hands.

Hardening of the putty layer

When hardening putty, it is necessary to use all precautions, as for hardening plaster: through air currents, direct sunlight, heat waves from a fan heater or hair dryer are absolutely contraindicated. Cracks in the wall as a result of drying are already unpleasant, but the putty layer damaged by improper drying can warp, which will only appear at the stage of wallpapering or painting.

Indoor air circulation should be adjusted, without drafts and temperature fluctuations. More specifically, you can open the room door, but leave the balcony door closed. For the corridor - to allow air to circulate from the living rooms, tightly shutting the doors to the street, kitchen and bathroom.

The instructions for use most often indicate the drying time of the coating up to 16 hours, in fact - 10-12 hours. However, it is advisable to grind the layer not earlier than a day has passed: the putty will dry out reliably, harden, and subsequent operations will be easier.

Puttying under the wallpaper

For the purpose of further wallpapering, the putty is initially carried out with a wide spatula, overlapping with each next layer up to ¼ of the previous one. The resulting "sausages" do not grind. Holding the spatula at an angle of 21-30 o, constant pressure should be observed, which will help to distribute the material in an even layer of 2 to 4 mm. The smaller the angle of inclination, the more it leads to the formation of a thick layer, the more - to a thin one. However, the dependence is typical for variations in the specified degree interval; when it goes beyond its limits, bumps and discontinuities form on the surface.

The next step is to dry the layer, remove the sags with a jointer with an abrasive and check the smoothness with the help of a building rule and a lantern. The resulting defects are eliminated: protrusions - with an abrasive, recesses - with additional lubrication. It is possible that an inexperienced master can approach the wall up to 5 times until the surface becomes perfect.

At the end of the manipulations and a long solidification, a jointer with a mesh of size range 80-120 is passed along the wall (with an increase in the number, the abrasive grain decreases). Initially, the entire surface is worked out in circular strokes, after which, loosening the grip, with crosswise movements in order to remove the contours of circular manipulations.

Then the wall is again aligned with the building rule with a lantern. If there are no lingering reflections from under the rule, the surface is ready, after a day the walls are primed and you can start gluing.

Puttying followed by painting

The technological process is different from puttying followed by wallpapering in one operation: after the final leveling and rubbing with abrasive material, the wall is covered with finishing plaster. Particular attention is paid to the wall, if it will be painted with enamel, in particular acrylic, then the finishing mixture must be white, durable and specially designed for this purpose.

Grouting occurs with an abrasive with a fine grain of at least 150.

For mirror painting, the wall is polished with everything else with a grinding trowel with suede material (felt and felt pieces are not suitable). A used suede cover will not cope with the task - it will have to be replaced with a new one. Also, for painting, the wall must be primed in accordance with the instructions indicated on the packaging of the material.

Related article: Features of painting walls with a smooth transition

The nuances of puttying corners and slopes

Inexperienced craftsmen are often advised to apply more than the required norm to the corners of the material, followed by rubbing with an abrasive product. But when, before puttying, it is planned to ask to skim any area with a gun, physical costs can be reduced, while at the same time increasing the efficiency of the result.

Work plan:

When the silicone is used up, the tube must be unwound, the remnants removed and wiped with a rag soaked in vinegar solution.
During puttying, the corner is bypassed, leaving it empty.
The wall has dried up - the tube must be filled with putty and slowly squeezed out into the slot of the corner. It is recommended, if possible, to do the procedure from the bottom up in one approach.
Then they work out with an angular spatula, leaning on the surface, similarly to plastering on beacons.
After drying, the protrusions will need to be removed with an abrasive mesh.

Instead of a silicone tube, you can use a syringe used when baking cakes. With rubber or foam pads and tape fixation, the confectionery syringe is fixed in the gun like a glove.

At the corners of the slopes, the master works with an angled trowel to choose from any of the methods known to him, knocks down the protrusions with an abrasive mesh, and checks the smoothness with a building rule. There is no significant difference in the process of laying the putty layer on the walls and in the corners, but the corners are difficult to bring to the ideal - a professional will need to step up to two times.