To hem the felt boots. To hem the felt boots Fashionable felt boots on Tanechka's feet

Today, such warm products as felt boots have acquired a completely different meaning in comparison with the past. Modern shoes are a combination of fashion trends, practicality and convenience.

Classic boots are presented in neutral, familiar shades, but even they look stylish and original. Such products will be ideal for the cold season.

How to hem: preparatory steps

If you want to extend the service life of the boots, you need to properly hem the new boots. The process itself is not difficult, the main thing is to follow the steps of the process.

Before you start the main work, you need to choose the sole. The simplest and most common option is to use ready-made rubber products, which are sold in specialized stores.

An equally important point is the preparation of threads for work. Ready-made products can be purchased, or you can make them yourself, using silk elements as a basis.

Most often, soap or wax is used for waxing. Threads are pulled through them, thanks to which they are covered with a protective layer.

Before starting work, be sure to prepare an awl to create holes. Also, craftsmen use a special hook for boots, the base of which consists of durable steel.

Particular attention must be paid to your own safety. To do this, wrap your fingers with adhesive tape.

After that, you can start the process. The initial stages include the following manipulations:

• threads are taken with the left hand, the right hand is placed inside the shoe;
• using an awl, holes are created in the layers to be stitched;
• a puncture is made in the front of the shoe using a hook;
• the tip of the thread from the ball is pulled out.

After that, a loop is taken out next to it and cut. The two ends must be firmly connected to each other.

Then, according to a similar scheme, it is necessary to process the back of the sole. After that, a special complex seam is made, starting from the back.

Shoe stitching

The process of hemming felt boots consists of the following steps:

• a hole is made in the product with a hook;
• the thread from the first ball is captured;
• the end is pulled out, after which the tip from another ball is tied to it.

A ball with a second thread is placed in it, and the contraction is performed with great force.

In this master class, I will try to explain how I hem felt boots (slippers).

How such felt boots appeared is described.

We will need:

• Felt boots (slippers) that need to be hemmed.
• Sole.
• Hemming threads (I have “sewing threads 1500D / 2 extra strong” (MICRON)).
• Stitching awl (D=2-3 mm).
• 8 safety pins.

At first, I hemmed slippers with factory-made needle-punched felt, but such slippers are very slippery (on tiles and on laminate). Now for the sole I buy slippers (100-120 rubles per pair). Satisfied with the fact that you can choose by color, and you do not need to mark holes for the line. Before buying, I always measure with a tailor's centimeter (you can’t be guided by the written size).

I wear felt boots on the blocks. To be honest, I hem it still wet. I try on the sole so that everything fits evenly, symmetrically. I fix with 4 safety pins.

A sewing awl is very similar to a sewing machine needle. On one side (near the ear) it has a notch.

On the other hand, there is a groove along the entire needle.
We thread the thread into the awl. We insert the thread from the side of the groove! Otherwise, the line will fail.

I start sewing from the heel. One hand is inside the felt boot, we pierce the sole with the felt with an awl (For some reason, when hemming, I lead the line away from me, so the awl with a groove “looks” from me. The free end of the thread is directed towards me).

We grope for an awl with a thread inside the boots. The free end of the thread, with a margin for the entire filing, is pulled inward. We remove the awl.

Let's make the next cut. If the awl is carefully pulled back, then a loop is formed inside the boots. Sometimes, this loop is very small, it’s easier for me to feel the thread (from the side of the notch) and make this loop bigger.

We fill the free end of the thread into the loop formed. We tighten both threads so that the place of their connection is exactly in the middle.

So we continue along the entire sole.

In the heel area, we make 2-3 stitches on top of the already laid ones. Pull the inner thread up, fasten. We hide the tips between the sole and the boots. Ready!

It takes me about 1 hour to sew one pair.

Hemmed slippers have been washed in the machine more than once.

We carry out repair of felted shoes of any production, except for products made by the method of "cold, soapy" felting.

We carry out post-warranty repairs of products of our own production.

Sole replacement: 270 rubles + the cost of a new sole

Language replacement: 180 rubles

Zipper replacement: 400 rubles + the cost of the zipper

Shaft stretching: 280 rubles

Production of a new boot, cloaks for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2100 rubles

Production of a new felt boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 1950 rubles

Production of a new boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2430 rubles

Updating the acrylic drawing, a new drawing on the surface of the product: 540 rubles

Repair of felted shoes from other manufacturers:

Sole replacement: 350 rubles + the cost of a new sole

Language replacement: 230 rubles (pair)

Zipper replacement: 390 rub + zipper cost

Replacement and installation of eyelets: 30 rubles per 1 piece

Shaft stretching: 380 rubles

Production of a new boot, cloaks for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2880 rubles

Production of a new felt boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 2630 rubles

Production of a new boot for a pair in case of impracticability of repair: 3120 rubles

Updating the acrylic drawing, a new drawing on the surface of the product: 350 rubles

Felt lining (sole made of "micropork"): 800 rubles

Felt lining (felt sole 3 cm): 610 rubles

Backrest restoration: 280 rubles

Professional cleaning of felt boots: 170 rubles (per pair)

How to hem felt boots

Anatoly Shishkin

A chapter from the book, The Basics of Survival.
Winter always comes at the wrong time. This problem is especially acute when you are far away from your home, and even in foreign lands, right in the middle of nowhere. It would be necessary to put on winter shoes, but nothing. There were several pairs of felt boots, but all the felt boots were unlined and old, and even undersized, moth-eaten. And this problem, until it develops into a real problem, must be solved quickly and efficiently. Any business must be done immediately well, it turns out badly.
So there are several options for solving the problem. Naturally, we choose the simplest and do not require special professional skills. In the "new" felt boots, it will hardly be convenient to force in large cities, but you will save your feet from frostbite.
FIRST OPTION: pick up boots according to size and hem the soles to these boots.
Required tools: shoe knife and shoe hook. Instead of a shoe knife, any other knife is also suitable, only well-sharpened and with a sharp end of the blade. A shoe awl is made from a suitable nail or piece of wire. The end (of the wire) is flattened, the head of the hook is cut with files and needle files as shown in the figure. The only condition is that the hook itself should be as thin and sharp as possible, so that the felt boot itself is less destroyed after being pierced with an awl. And the cavity for the thread should be larger and dumber, so that it is convenient to insert (without looking) the thread into the hole and the thread itself would not tear on the sharp ends of the hook.
The material of thread for hemming boots can be any, preferably from natural materials, but synthetic ones are also suitable. Only the threads should be thicker and stronger. Rub the threads with tar (wax, paraffin ...), make a thread, optional. Otherwise, you will have to lay insoles in felt boots so as not to stain socks or footcloths.
The sole can be cut from a piece of suitable felt or the tops of old boots. The tops of boots usually have different thicknesses, from the mouth of the tops to the foot, so the thicker part of the sole blank is placed under the heel, or the sole is assembled from two pieces (layers) of the tops so that the thickness of the sole is approximately the same along its entire length. A two-layer sole (sometimes together with a felt heel) is stitched with large stitches along the entire length, so that the layers of felt (and the future heel) do not move relative to each other.
It is undesirable to cut two identical blanks of soles at once. Felt boots in a pair differ in size and, therefore, the size of each sole must be selected according to a specific felt boot.
Now we put the sole on the felt boot and sew it sighting in two places, in the heel and toe. We check how the sole sits, if there are any flaws. This is the fastest, but the most responsible operation. Walk a little and make sure that the sole sits on the felt boot as it should and does not “look” to the side. If everything is in order, then we sew the sole along the perimeter with the main seam.
In order for the threads connecting the sole with the felt boots not to be rubbed, an incision is made in the sole along the path of the future seam. The line of the future seam is drawn and the sole is cut along the line by about one third of the thickness, where the seam thread is hidden. If you want to duplicate the seam with another seam, then draw and cut two cuts. Trimming the sole under the seam is done even before the sighting filing.
Now specifically about the seam. With an awl, we pierce the felt boot and the sole only from the outside to the inside, carefully protecting the hand in the felt boot from injury. We pierce the sole and felt boots with an awl and from the inside we put a thread in the hole. We pull out the thread, so that we get approximately two identical segments, only one segment of the thread is in the boots, and the second is outside. Next, with a step of 5-10 millimeters, we pierce the sole along the notch and pull out the thread. But already only a small loop and we thread the outer thread into this loop and tighten it so that the connection of the threads is somewhere in the middle of the sewn package.
The shorter the seam pitch, the better. Over time, the sole wears out to the seam, the seam thread also begins to wear out and, as a result, the fluffy ends of the seam threads hold the sole. The fibers of the fluffy ends of the thread, as it were, grow together with the felt of the sole of the felt boot. Naturally, the more these tips are, the stronger the connection will be.
SECOND OPTION: The boots are small and their size should be slightly increased in the length of the foot and its width.
This is where inserts are easiest. By cutting off the tops from unusable boots to the soles, a longer sock can be cut off from the remaining heads and sewn on instead of the cut off, short old one, as shown in the figure. Then make an incision along the sole of the felt boot and sew-insert the corresponding insert there. And only after these alterations sew new soles to the felt boots.
THIRD OPTION: Sew felt boots, or rather winter shoes with felt soles, yourself.
If you are afraid of the grandiosity of the idea of ​​the task, then let's start small, with insulated socks for winter shoes.

For example, take knitted woolen socks. How long does it take to tie them by hand? 8-10 hours for a couple? But to sew, about the same warm ones from thin felt, overcoat cloth, from a fur skin from an old fur coat, you need two hours no more. To create a pattern, first spend extra time, but then there will be no delays.
But first, we will make a pattern using thin cardboard, thick paper and plastic film. We circle our sole and cut out the first pattern (insole) from cardboard. Immediately mark the toe (A), heel (B) with a dot. We take a tailor's centimeter or a piece of rope and determine the place of the highest rise of the foot and also mark on the insole where the centimeter (or rope) came into contact with the insole (G) and (D).
We do not remove the foot from the insole and put a piece of thin polyethylene film on the instep of the leg, so that a straight cut of the film passes through points (D), (E) and the place of the highest instep of the foot. Carefully lay the rest of the film on the foot and toes and mark with a line the points of contact of the film with the insole. We cut out the blank of the second pattern from the film, lifting the leg and transfer it to a more durable cardboard. We immediately mark points (A), (D) and (D) on the pattern.
It remains to make the third pattern, the top of the sock. We take a sheet of thick paper (whatman paper, magazine cover ... an A4 sheet is enough), divide the sheet with a dot in half and from the resulting point we set aside half the distance from (D) to (D) in both directions. We mark the corresponding points and then by trial and error, applying paper to the foot, cut out the instep of the foot on the paper. If it doesn't work the first time, try on another sheet of paper. When the cutout of the foot is obtained, check it for a match with the second pattern between points (D) and (E).
Now, on the insole pattern, from points (D) and (E) along the edge of the insole, we measure the distance to point (B) on the heel of the insole. When you make a pattern of the bootleg on cardboard, you will need to set aside the resulting length from the corresponding points. This means that the length of the backdrop or bootleg pattern will be the sum of the distances from points (B) along the edge of the insole to (D) and (D) and the distance from (D) to (D).

Felted shoe repair

Shaft height according to your taste.
Now if (mentally) sew the resulting patterns, we get three seams:
- along the edge of the insole,
- from point (D) to (D) on the rise,
-and the seam from the point (B) or from the heel up the leg.
The question is, what is the difference in the seam behind the leg from the heel or the seam in front of the instep?
Big difference. Look at your heel. It protrudes a little back and so that the sock (and any other shoes with backs too) do not fly off the foot, the back seam must be slightly narrowed along the heel and only then allowed to expand along the bootleg.
Medieval shoemakers did not make this narrowing on the heel, and therefore the shoes of those times were made with special straps that had to be tied around the foot so that boots and other shoes did not fly off the foot.
To complete the picture of making a pattern, it is necessary to sew a sock from a durable and relatively non-extensible fabric. Leave three millimeters for the seams and sew all the seams except the heel over the edge. We will also sew the heel seam over the edge, but later and with adjustments for the heel.
From this resulting sock we will make real patterns. For example, we only need fur footprints. We cut out the sock as it should be along the top, that is, we cut off all the excess, and then spreading the sock at the seams, we transfer the shape and dimensions to the cardboard, and we get the desired pattern of the trace from just two parts. This is if the seam from (D) to (D) is not dissolved. Just when making a pattern of fur tracks, do not forget to give an allowance for the seams and the volume of the fur.
For thin felt or rag socks, seam allowances are kept to a minimum. Moccasins are also sewn using the same technology among some Indian tribes.
Continued at http://www.proza.ru/2011/11/10/1186

See also Extreme cuisine: http://www.proza.ru/2009/06/24/1117

Copyright: Anatoly Shishkin, 2011
Publication Certificate No. 211110701434

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My father once, when I was still small, hemmed felt boots for all members of our family and other relatives. I helped him roll the dart. It's funny to think about it. And they put on galoshes on felt boots and went to ride down the hill. Class:)!

Vladimir Migalev 15.03.2018 06:40 Alleged violation

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Summer memories are the best. And the smell, and the view, and the novelty of impressions. I understand you!
Anatoly.

Anatoly Shishkin 03/15/2018 06:46 Alleged violation

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This work was written 7 reviews, the last one is displayed here, the rest are in full list.

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A new rubber sole is not easy to stick to a worn out nylon or polyurethane sole. You can use a kind of adapter: weld a piece of cotton fabric to the old sole with an iron, and glue a new rubber sole to it with Moment.
Scuffed heels on leather and rubber shoes can be repaired with nylon. The technology of work is simple. The place where the capron is to be welded must be thoroughly dried and cleaned with an emery cloth. Then wipe the prepared area with a heated soldering iron.

Repair boots? How easier?

Rubber or leather will be slightly charred, bubbled, and become sticky. After such preparation, you can start surfacing. Attach a small compressed piece of a nylon stocking to the prepared place and press its end with the tip of a heated soldering iron. Rub the melted part of the capron into the bubbled rubber (or skin). This operation must be repeated until the entire surface of the heel is absolutely flat. The welded nylon should be leveled not with a soldering iron tip, but with the rod itself. A heel repaired in this way will require re-repair no earlier than a month later. And the whole repair will take you no more than 30 minutes. In the same way, you can fill a hole in the sole or glue a lagging section of the sole, for example, on the toe of a boot.

It is not easy to nail heels to plastic heels: nails go with great difficulty. You can do the following: drill holes in the heels, hammer wooden plugs into them, and nail the heels to them, or drill holes in the heel with a diameter of 1 mm and hammer thicker nails into them that fasten the heels.

Scuffed heels are a common "disease". When repairing, stuff or stick a layer of dense rubber (3-6 mm thick) on the heel, and glue sponge rubber into the resulting wedge-shaped gap (Fig. 1a). You will be convinced that the next "disease" will come much later than after a regular repair.

A worn out rubber heel can be repaired with epoxy mixed with steel filings. The desired section of the heel is cleaned, adhesive tape is glued to the side, and the mass is poured into the resulting recess. After such repair, the heel serves for another 2-3 months.

If rubber is glued to the leather sole during shoe repair, we recommend cutting off the edge on it at an angle of 45 ° (Fig. 1b). The rubber sticker will last longer, and the repair will become completely invisible.

Steel balls pressed into holes drilled in the heels with a depth and diameter slightly less than the diameter of the ball will help to increase the period of wearing boots (Fig. 1c). The balls are not inferior to horseshoes, and the knock when walking is much less.

To protect the heels from fast grinding, we recommend inserting 1-2 bolts into them from below. Bolts are taken with a diameter of 5-6 mm with a head of 10-11 mm. In places where the heel wears out the most, shallow holes are drilled and bolts are inserted into them (Fig. 1d). When they wear out, they are easy to replace with new ones.

You can solder the patch to the boots as follows. Put a nylon flagellum (for example, a stocking that has become unusable) 3-4 mm thick on the edge of the hole previously cleaned of dirt, and put a felt patch on top. Slightly lifting the patch in one place, run the tip of a heated soldering iron over the nylon and, as soon as the nylon melts, press this section of the patch against the felt boots with your fingers (Fig. 1e). At the same time, keep in mind: nylon melts quickly, but also cools quickly. By doing this operation around the entire perimeter of the patch, you will get a circular weld, which will be neater and much stronger than a seam made with threads or dagger. In the same way, you can solder a new outsole to a leaky felt boot. You can repair felt boots in this way without a soldering iron. Cut pieces of 2-3 cm from an old nylon stocking. Fold each of them in three, put it on an awl and melt it on a gas burner flame. Quickly apply the melted mass to one of the areas under the edge of the patch. Press the patch to the felt boots and immediately, before the awl is welded, pull it out. Do this operation around the entire perimeter of the patch. If you weld the outsole, for greater strength, it doesn’t hurt to weld not only its edge, but also the middle to the felt boot.

From the "death throes" caused by a nail that constantly crawls out of the sole (or heel) of your boot and digs into your leg, there is a simple but trouble-free "cure". Raise the insole and stick a pushpin over the nail (Fig. 1e). The "obstinate" nail will rest against the head of the button, and your leg will be reliably protected.

A washer cut from an unnecessary plastic bottle will help to make the strap of the beach rubber “footprints” hold firmly in place (Fig. 1g). Gluing soles to boots is not an easy task. It is very difficult to press them tightly against each other until the glue dries completely. A kind of press for this is the chamber of a volleyball, placed in a polyethylene (can be made of cloth) bag. The toes of the shoes are stuffed with soft paper, and then, putting the shoes in a bag, inflate the ball chamber to the desired volume (Fig. 1h).

It is very difficult for a kid taking his first steps to stay on a slippery parquet floor. By gluing two narrow (1 cm) rubber strips to the soles of his boots, you will insure the child against falling and the fear associated with it, which for a long time discourages the child from walking independently (Fig. 1i).

Rice. 1 Shoe repair

Other articles in the "Miscellaneous" section:

1. 13.10.14 Devices for repairing shoes; stud repair
2. 13.10.14 Shoe repair, boots
3. 13.10.14 Storage and stretching of shoes
4. 10/13/14 To keep your feet warm and dry
5. 13.10.14 Rules for the operation of shoes
6. 13.10.14 Caring for suede, patent leather and rubber shoes
7. 10/13/14 Knife - shining and sharp
8. 13.10.14 Fur care
9. 13.10.14 Repair, cleaning and moving of furniture
10. 10/13/14 To make furniture shine

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Skok: 10

Does anyone know a shoe repair shop in Moscow where boots can be hemmed?

The famous Russian shoes have now become a rarity. It is used by citizens, by the nature of their profession, who work for a long time in the cold. For our winter they are ideal, they have no “analogues” in the world.

Now citizens who buy felt boots do not even know if they are hemmed in the workshops. First they come to ask, then they carry. Of course they hem, but maybe not everywhere.

The price of the service is from 500 rubles for an adult couple, for children, of course, it is cheaper. The cost consists of now expensive domestic microporous rubber and high consumption of glue. For this reason, some "modern masters" avoid this work.

Loved by many at the same time, an additional felt pad under the sole for greater insulation, the client often has to look for it himself (they find it in the form of old boots).

Valenki in Russia were, are, and will be the most popular winter shoes for villages, distant northern shifts, residents of the private sector in cities and just lovers of this simple and perfectly warm footwear.

A chapter from the book, The Basics of Survival.
Winter always comes at the wrong time. This problem is especially acute when you are far away from your home, and even in foreign lands, right in the middle of nowhere. It would be necessary to put on winter shoes, but nothing. There were several pairs of felt boots, but all the felt boots were unlined and old, and even undersized, moth-eaten. And this problem, until it develops into a real problem, must be solved quickly and efficiently. Any business must be done immediately well, it turns out badly.
So there are several options for solving the problem. Naturally, we choose the simplest and do not require special professional skills. In the "new" felt boots, it will hardly be convenient to force in large cities, but you will save your feet from frostbite.
FIRST OPTION: pick up boots according to size and hem the soles to these boots.
Required tools: shoe knife and shoe hook. Instead of a shoe knife, any other knife is also suitable, only well-sharpened and with a sharp end of the blade. A shoe awl is made from a suitable nail or piece of wire. The end (of the wire) is flattened, the head of the hook is cut with files and needle files as shown in the figure. The only condition is that the hook itself should be as thin and sharp as possible, so that the felt boot itself is less destroyed after being pierced with an awl. And the cavity for the thread should be larger and dumber, so that it is convenient to insert (without looking) the thread into the hole and the thread itself would not tear on the sharp ends of the hook.
The material of thread for hemming boots can be any, preferably from natural materials, but synthetic ones are also suitable. Only the threads should be thicker and stronger. Rubbing the threads with tar (wax, paraffin ...), making a thread, is optional. Otherwise, you will have to lay insoles in felt boots so as not to stain socks or footcloths.
The sole can be cut from a piece of suitable felt or the tops of old boots. The tops of boots usually have different thicknesses, from the mouth of the tops to the foot, so the thicker part of the sole blank is placed under the heel, or the sole is assembled from two pieces (layers) of the tops so that the thickness of the sole is approximately the same along its entire length. A two-layer sole (sometimes together with a felt heel) is stitched with large stitches along the entire length, so that the layers of felt (and the future heel) do not move relative to each other.
It is undesirable to cut two identical blanks of soles at once. Felt boots in a pair differ in size and, therefore, the size of each sole must be selected according to a specific felt boot.
Now we put the sole on the felt boot and sew it sighting in two places, in the heel and toe. We check how the sole sits, if there are any flaws. This is the fastest, but the most responsible operation. Walk a little and make sure that the sole sits on the felt boot as it should and does not “look” to the side. If everything is in order, then we sew the sole along the perimeter with the main seam.
In order for the threads connecting the sole with the felt boots not to be rubbed, an incision is made in the sole along the path of the future seam. The line of the future seam is drawn and the sole is cut along the line by about one third of the thickness, where the seam thread is hidden. If you want to duplicate the seam with another seam, then draw and cut two cuts. Trimming the sole under the seam is done even before the sighting filing.
Now specifically about the seam. With an awl, we pierce the felt boot and the sole only from the outside to the inside, carefully protecting the hand in the felt boot from injury. We pierce the sole and felt boots with an awl and from the inside we put a thread in the hole. We pull out the thread, so that we get approximately two identical segments, only one segment of the thread is in the boots, and the second is outside. Next, with a step of 5-10 millimeters, we pierce the sole along the notch and pull out the thread. But already only a small loop and we thread the outer thread into this loop and tighten it so that the connection of the threads is somewhere in the middle of the sewn package.
The shorter the seam pitch, the better. Over time, the sole wears out to the seam, the seam thread also begins to wear out and, as a result, the fluffy ends of the seam threads hold the sole. The fibers of the fluffy ends of the thread, as it were, grow together with the felt of the sole of the felt boot. Naturally, the more these tips are, the stronger the connection will be.
SECOND OPTION: The boots are small and their size should be slightly increased in the length of the foot and its width.
This is where inserts are easiest. By cutting off the tops from unusable boots to the soles, a longer sock can be cut off from the remaining heads and sewn on instead of the cut off, short old one, as shown in the figure. Then make an incision along the sole of the felt boot and sew-insert the corresponding insert there. And only after these alterations sew new soles to the felt boots.
THIRD OPTION: Sew felt boots, or rather winter shoes with felt soles, yourself.
If you are afraid of the grandiosity of the idea of ​​the task, then let's start small, with insulated socks for winter shoes. For example, take knitted woolen socks. How long does it take to tie them by hand? 8-10 hours for a couple? But to sew, about the same warm ones from thin felt, overcoat cloth, from a fur skin from an old fur coat, you need two hours no more. To create a pattern, first spend extra time, but then there will be no delays.
But first, we will make a pattern using thin cardboard, thick paper and plastic film. We circle our sole and cut out the first pattern (insole) from cardboard. Immediately mark the toe (A), heel (B) with a dot. We take a tailor's centimeter or a piece of rope and determine the place of the highest rise of the foot and also mark on the insole where the centimeter (or rope) came into contact with the insole (G) and (D).
We do not remove the foot from the insole and put a piece of thin polyethylene film on the instep of the leg, so that a straight cut of the film passes through points (D), (E) and the place of the highest instep of the foot. Carefully lay the rest of the film on the foot and toes and mark with a line the points of contact of the film with the insole. We cut out the blank of the second pattern from the film, lifting the leg and transfer it to a more durable cardboard. We immediately mark points (A), (D) and (D) on the pattern.
It remains to make the third pattern, the top of the sock. We take a sheet of thick paper (whatman paper, magazine cover ... an A4 sheet is enough), divide the sheet with a dot in half and from the resulting point we set aside half the distance from (D) to (D) in both directions. We mark the corresponding points and then by trial and error, applying paper to the foot, cut out the instep of the foot on the paper. If it doesn't work the first time, try on another sheet of paper. When the cutout of the foot is obtained, check it for a match with the second pattern between points (D) and (E).
Now, on the insole pattern, from points (D) and (E) along the edge of the insole, we measure the distance to point (B) on the heel of the insole. When you make a pattern of the bootleg on cardboard, you will need to set aside the resulting length from the corresponding points. This means that the length of the backdrop or bootleg pattern will be the sum of the distances from points (B) along the edge of the insole to (D) and (D) and the distance from (D) to (D). Shaft height according to your taste.
Now if (mentally) sew the resulting patterns, we get three seams:
- along the edge of the insole,
- from point (D) to (D) on the rise,
-and the seam from the point (B) or from the heel up the leg.
The question is, what is the difference in the seam behind the leg from the heel or the seam in front of the instep?
Big difference. Look at your heel. It protrudes a little back and so that the sock (and any other shoes with backs too) do not fly off the foot, the back seam must be slightly narrowed along the heel and only then allowed to expand along the bootleg.
Medieval shoemakers did not make this narrowing on the heel, and therefore the shoes of those times were made with special straps that had to be tied around the foot so that boots and other shoes did not fly off the foot.
To complete the picture of making a pattern, it is necessary to sew a sock from a durable and relatively non-extensible fabric. Leave three millimeters for the seams and sew all the seams except the heel over the edge. We will also sew the heel seam over the edge, but later and with adjustments for the heel.
From this resulting sock we will make real patterns. For example, we only need fur footprints. We cut out the sock as it should be along the top, that is, we cut off all the excess, and then spreading the sock at the seams, we transfer the shape and dimensions to the cardboard, and we get the desired pattern of the trace from just two parts. This is if the seam from (D) to (D) is not dissolved. Just when making a pattern of fur tracks, do not forget to give an allowance for the seams and the volume of the fur.
For thin felt or rag socks, seam allowances are kept to a minimum. Moccasins are also sewn using the same technology among some Indian tribes.
Continued in

Modern felt boots are distinguished by special colors and designer decorations. However, these shoes can quickly deteriorate under the influence of rain, snow, mud, public transport and other negative factors. To extend the life of the felt boots, it is necessary to hem them correctly. It is best to make the sole for them immediately after purchase or manufacture.

We will tell you how to hem felt boots with your own hands.

The process of hemming felt boots is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to prepare in advance all the necessary materials and follow a certain sequence of actions. The work will require the following materials and tools.

• sole material. The selected material is one of the main criteria for the reliability of the future sole. Most often, rubber, leatherette, leatherette or bootlegs from old boots are used.. You can buy ready-made soles in construction stores.
• Awl. It can be made from a nail or a piece of wire. With this tool it is convenient to make holes.
• shoe hook.
• Knife. It should be well sharpened and have a sharp blade end.
• A thread. It must be strong and strong, and it can be made of any materials.
• Scissors, paper, chalk and other supporting materials.

With special care should prepare the thread. You can buy a special thread in hardware stores, or you can make it yourself.. To do this, twist together a pair of harsh or silk threads. They should be waxed with soap, wax or paraffin.. It is necessary to drag the thread through the selected material. In this case, the thread passes through the edge of the material, stretches along the formed groove and is covered with a protective layer.

Advice. It is not advised to cut two blanks for the sole at the same time, because the felt boots in a pair are different.

The size of each sole is selected individually for a particular product.

Step-by-step instructions for hemming boots

When all the tools are prepared, you can begin the main work of hemming shoes at home. Observe the following sequence of actions.

• For starters, you should trace the outline of the boots on paper and cut out the resulting pattern with a small margin on the heel.
• Making a sample of the resulting pattern. Make sure the dimensions are correct and make any necessary adjustments.
• We mark on the pattern a place under the heel.
• Cut out the sole with a small margin a few millimeters.
• Cut out the heel.
• Next we follow prepare the thread. She should take 4 times longer than the future line. The thread must be prepared in advance.
• We connect the sole with the boots and start the sewing process.
• To start doing a few stitches on the heel and toe. This allows you to check whether the sole has sat down correctly. This operation is one of the most responsible, because the correctness of the further process depends on it.

• We sew the sole over the entire surface. A prerequisite is to pierce the boots and soles with an awl from the outside in. Next, from the inside, we put the thread in the hole of the hook. We pull the thread in such a way that two segments of equal length are formed. One of them remains in the product, and the other outside.
  After 5–10 mm, we pierce the sole along the notch and pull out a small loop. Next, we draw the outer thread into this loop and tighten it so that the threads are connected in the center.

Important! Stitches should be kept short. The shorter they are, the stronger the connection of the two materials.

Useful tips for hemming boots

• Certain safety precautions must be observed. In order not to injure the skin when tightening the thread, tape or adhesive tape should be wrapped around some fingers.
• The left hand of the master is placed inside the product, and there should be a skein of threads in it. It is more convenient to take a hook in the right hand. If necessary, both stitched layers are pierced with an awl, and then sewn together with a hook.

Important! There are masters who prefer gluing the insole to the foot with a slight approach to the toe and heel. This method is less popular, despite the fact that it is much faster. You need a hot glue gun.

• The threads that connect the sole with the felt boots can be wiped. To prevent this from happening an incision is made in the sole in the direction of the future seam. To do this, you need to draw a stitching line. The sole is slightly cut along this line. The seam thread will be hidden there.
• For greater strength, the seam can be stitched again. For this, two cuts are already drawn and cut. This operation must be done before the sole is connected to the product.

You can protect your favorite felt boots from rapid wear and give them extra strength with your own hands. To do this, it is worth studying a simple technology and purchasing the required materials.