Chemical peeling: types, features, indications and contraindications. Types of chemical peels for the face, their effect and possible complications after

Silky, healthy skin of the face is not only a gift of nature, but also the result of caring for it. Professional methods are more effective, although home methods should not be ignored. One of the most common procedures is facial chemical peel . Several of its types are used, each provides a different degree of effect on the skin.

Read in this article

The essence of the procedure

During peeling, a chemical composition is applied that removes the top layer of the skin or affects deeper areas. In fact, this is a burn, but it helps to get rid of dead cells, excess fat, traffic jams.

The procedure also causes a protective reaction in the tissues. Healthy cells of the collagen and elastin layers of the skin begin to actively divide, which leads to rejuvenation. The result is:

increased hydration and elasticity;
disappearance of small wrinkles and smoothing of deep ones;
brightening the surface, leveling the overall skin tone;
removal and stains.

Face after chemical peelneeds rehabilitation, which has a different duration. The skin turns red, peels off, and crusts may form on it. But when it is completely updated, it becomes much better than before the procedure.

Indications for carrying out

Chemical peels can be done from the age of 18. It will help those over 25, it is also effective for older women. With the help of acid peeling, it will be possible to cope with many disadvantages:

increased greasiness and clogged, enlarged pores;
acne and the irregularities left after them, spots;
weakened skin turgor;
fine wrinkles and more pronounced facial folds;
age spots;
noticeable scars;
bad complexion.

Contraindications

If a woman is going to do chemical peeling of the face, contraindications is the first thing she needs to know. These include:

dermatological diseases of an inflammatory and other nature;
intolerance to the components of the drug;
pregnancy and breastfeeding period;
any infection, including skin;
oncology;
mental disorders, epilepsy;
carried out less than six months before the laser procedure;
pronounced rosacea.

About what important points you should know before starting a chemical peel, see this video:

Preparations for the procedure

Chemical peeling of the skin carried out with acids. They affect the surface with different intensity:

Means based on hydroxy acids. These are all fruity and glycolic, providing a gentle effect on the skin. They belong to the category of alpha hydroxy acids. Fruity and help to nourish the skin with moisture, so they are more likely to be indicated for increased dryness. This group also includes beta-hydroxy acids.

These substances penetrate deeper into the skin, therefore they are able to regulate the work of the sebaceous glands, more vigorously stimulate rejuvenating processes in it, and gently but efficiently cleanse. The most commonly used drug is salicylic acid. Alpha and beta hydroxy acids are found in Jan Marini, MD Forte, Cosmedix, Agera RX, LA Peel preparations.

Means, the main component of which is trichloroacetic acid. It comes in different concentrations, so there are preparations for medium and deep peels. In the first case, 25 - 30% substance is used. For a deep effect, a concentration of 40% is needed. This series includes the preparations "Skintech Peel", "Compositum", "Obagi Blue Peel", "Cosmedix".
Products with retinoic acid. Designed for the so-called yellow peeling. The preparations also contain ascorbic, phytic, vitamin C. In beauty parlors, products from Mene and Moy System, Mediderma are used.
Products containing phenol (carbolic acid). They also come in different concentrations, so they are used for medium or deep exposure. These are preparations "MC Peel", " Green mask" and others.

Preparation

An effective chemical facial peel impossible without a preliminary step. Preparation begins 2 weeks before exposure and includes:

use of skin care products with vitamin A;
oral antiviral drugs if the patient often has herpes;
superficial peeling 10 - 14 days before the middle one;
using sunscreen before going out to prevent tanned skin.

Do you need anesthesia

During the procedure, different layers of the skin are injured. This can cause pain or at best discomfort. Nevertheless, with superficial peeling, the sensations are quite tolerable, it is only a slight burning sensation. Therefore, anesthesia is not needed.

Median peeling is a more serious effect. During it, the discomfort may be stronger, so an analgesic is taken before the procedure.

Deep peeling has an even stronger effect on the skin. It removes the entire top layer (epidermis) and affects the dermis. Therefore, the procedure is more like a surgical operation. It is performed by a plastic surgeon with the help of an anesthesiologist. And in this case general anesthesia is given. But some time ago, sparing formulations for deep impact appeared. With them, an injection of an anesthetic drug is enough.

Technique

When talking about the features of the conduct, which differ types of chemical peels for the face - the main thing that defines them. How each of the procedures goes:

Deep peeling begins with anesthesia. If anesthesia is general, the patient's condition is also monitored with a cardio machine. Then comes a thorough cleansing of the skin with a cleanser and a hard sponge. After rinsing the skin with water, it is blotted with a napkin, degreased with alcohol. Then the drug is applied with phenol. For a more even distribution, the second stage is the application of a polymer composition - jelly.

For a couple of days, the patient lives with a mask formed on her face. Then it is removed along with the top layer of the skin and a preparation with antibiotics is applied.

Median peeling is also preceded by cleansing the face. but with lotion. Then it is dried and treated with an antiseptic. The main preparation is applied with a brush. It can also be rubbed into the skin for a more noticeable effect. Layers of the product can be from 1 to 4, they remain on the face for 5 to 20 minutes. All this time, discomfort from exposure is eliminated by a stream of cool air.

TO When a white film forms on the surface, the preparation is removed using an alkaline composition. Then the skin is treated with a disinfectant and emollient.

Light chemical facial peel(superficial) begins with the application of a cleansing foam, which remains for a couple of minutes. Then it is washed off, the main remedy is applied to dry skin. When it is absorbed, you can apply a second layer. After 10 minutes, the composition is removed with a damp cloth or neutralizer. Dried skin is treated with a tonic, moisturized with a special agent.

Skin care after

As a result of peeling, the skin remains injured, therefore, on the day of the procedure, it should not be touched, you should not even wash your face. The face may look swollen, red. Then a film forms on the skin, and it begins to peel off.

Care includes:

Washing with mild means a day after the surface exposure, 2-4 days after the median. requires treatment of the face with antiseptics until a dry film and crusts form on the skin.
Applying Bepanthen or Panthenol spray to the flaky face. This can be done a day after a light peel, 2-4 days after a medium one. At the same time, the spray is applied to the deeply affected face. Use the product several times a day for 15-20 minutes, then blot the skin with a napkin.
When the dry film and crusts come off, it is allowed to use ordinary moisturizing cosmetics. And before going out, you should apply sunscreen.
Other caring procedures, sunbathing, baths, swimming, sports and decorative cosmetics should be abandoned for now. It is also impossible to rip off dry scales, films and crusts. They should fall off on their own.

How often is a chemical peel done? , depends on the condition of the skin and the type of exposure. With it, it will be ready for the next superficial or midline procedure in 7 to 14 days. The course consists of 4 - 10 sessions. Light peeling can be done every 4 to 6 months. The median exposure is enough to carry out 1 - 2 times a year. Deep peeling is the only procedure in a lifetime.

Possible Complications

Complications after peeling

Most of them arise when the requirements of rehabilitation are ignored. Sometimes the cause of complications is the wrong actions of the doctor.

Price

The price for the procedure depends on the type, number of sessions, level of the clinic. Superficial peeling costs 900 - 2500 rubles. per session. Median procedure - 2000 - 10000 rubles, deep impact - from 25000 rubles.

Women are more interested in the effect than the price. The best chemical peels for the face it is difficult to name, it depends on the type of skin and problems with it, the age of the patient. Fruit acids relieve inflammation, almond rejuvenates, phytic acid relieves greasiness and smoothes wrinkles.

Glycolic acid is more commonly used, it has multiple effects. In some cases, salicylic peeling will be the best, with age, you can decide on phenol. You need to choose together with a beautician.

Facial care

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13.10.14 13:06

A special place among modern anti-aging procedures is occupied by facial chemical peel. It provides for the impact of chemical reagents on the surface layers of the skin, which results in the dissolution of intercellular bonds and dead cells, the launch of regenerative and rejuvenating processes, and the acceleration of biochemical reactions in tissues. Organic acids, biologically active substances and other chemical compounds can be used for procedures.

Chemical peeling of the face: all about the procedure

The first thing they pay attention to when prescribing a procedure such as chemical peeling is indications for aggressive manipulation. Depending on the type of components used for cleaning, chemical facial peels can have different depths of impact. Based on this, there are superficial, median and deep peels, which have their own characteristics, advantages, and, therefore, indications.

Facial chemical peels are especially useful in the presence of the following conditions:

problematic and oily skin, prone to the formation of acne, sebaceous plugs, inflammation, black spots;
mild or clear hyperpigmentation of the skin;
weak tone of the epidermis, a decrease in its elasticity and density;
signs of skin aging as a result of stress, exposure to ultraviolet radiation, reaching adulthood;
the presence of enlarged pores, scars, ingrown hairs;
poor discharge of keratinized cells, leading to the appearance of irregularities and a deterioration in complexion;
the need to prepare the face for a more serious cosmetic procedure.

The result of rejuvenation depends not only on which layers of the epidermis will be affected by chemical peeling: the procedure must be carried out by a professional, pre-peeling preparation and care after the intervention must be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of the cosmetologist. Only this approach will allow you to get the desired effect.

A chemical peel session includes three mandatory steps:

Preparation. It is carried out with the aim of leveling the stratum corneum of the epidermis, increasing the permeability of tissues, and adapting the skin to the effects of acids. It can last from several minutes to six months.
The chemical peeling of the face. It is carried out in accordance with a certain algorithm and includes cleansing the face, applying the main composition to the skin, its neutralization and urgent treatment of the skin after manipulation.
Post-peel care. Activities specific to this stage help prevent the development of complications after the session and consolidate a positive result.

The composition of chemical peeling has a direct impact on the result, the presence of unpleasant sensations, the main and additional properties of manipulations. A variety of organic acids, biologically active components and their good combination allows you to create various basic preparations that can be used for skin care of any type in order to solve a number of aesthetic and physiological problems.

Acid-based chemical facial peel provides the most aggressive cleansing. The principle of action of such products is based on the ability of chemical ingredients to dissolve cells, intercellular connections, and start regenerative processes in response to inflammation caused by a chemical burn. Superficial acid peels can be carried out even at home, providing a positive result. The main types of acid-based chemical peels, aimed at medium and deep effects, can only be carried out in a hospital.

Compositions for chemical peeling based on enzymes (enzymes) gently cleanse the surface of the epidermis from impurities, dead cells, waste products of tissues. Due to the fact that these substances are able to penetrate deep into the skin, as a result of the procedure, biological processes are adjusted and sebum production is regulated. These types of chemical peels are suitable even for sensitive skin and are widely used in home cosmetology.

Chemical peeling of the face, carried out with peptide compounds, is characterized by deep penetration of substances into the thickness of the epidermis due to the small molecular weight of the main components. Their goal is to stimulate regeneration processes, accelerate cell division, and activate the synthesis of collagen and elastin. There are special types of chemical peels that contain peptides and acids. This combination increases the effectiveness of the compositions, expands their functional range.

At home, in addition to the listed cleaning options, preparations based on calcium chloride, bodyagi, bamboo extract, and placenta are often used. They are distinguished by a milder effect, the absence of a long period of preparation and rapid tissue recovery after the procedure.

Many women have a question: "use?". It is difficult to give a definite answer to this. Obviously, it is best to use the cleaning option that suits your skin type, eliminates aesthetic problems, improves the condition of the skin and its appearance, and does not give complications and side effects.

Given the variety of cosmetic procedures, you need to find information about each of them, study it yourself and be sure to seek advice from several experienced professionals. Such a thorough approach will eliminate the obviously dangerous and useless types of chemical peeling. The age and severity of the problems will tell you the depth of the impact. Specific requirements for the result will help determine the basic and additional components.

The main factor influencing how often to do a chemical peel is the depth of exposure to chemical reagents. The abuse of aggressive acids can lead to the development of chronic pathological conditions, thinning of tissues, dryness of the epidermis, and a decrease in the barrier function of the skin.

Superficial chemical peeling of the face is recommended in courses, no more than 1-2 per year. One course may consist of 4-10 procedures, the intervals between which should be at least ten days. The rest of the time, you can perform manipulations to maintain the effect obtained. These rules do not apply to peels, the compositions for which are prepared at home from natural products. This option of care can be carried out according to indications, but not more than once a week.

Median chemical peeling for the face or its individual zones carries a significant physiological load on the tissues, so it is recommended to use it no more than 2-6 times in a lifetime. A full course of such exposure may include from 1 to 4 procedures with an interval of several weeks (on the recommendation of a specialist).

The most radical dry cleaning option - deep phenol peeling - cannot be done more than three times in a lifetime. Considering the stability of the result, the re-appointment of the session occurs several years after the first procedure. Deep chemical peeling of the face is repeated only if there are strong indications and a normal reaction without complications to the first procedure.

Various types of chemical peeling have been developed, which differ in the type and depth of exposure, basic and additional functions, features of the procedure and the duration of the recovery period.

According to the depth of exposure, there are the following types of chemical peels:

superficial . It affects only the keratinized surface layers of the epidermis, does not require complex care after the procedure.
middle . Provides an impact on the entire stratum corneum of the epidermis, causing tissue rejection in the form of pronounced peeling. Requires complex care after cleaning, which lasts up to several months.
deep . Completely burns out the epidermis, forcing tissues to recover and renew themselves. A complex radical procedure, recovery after which can take about a year.

There is a conditional division into types of chemical peeling according to the type of chemical reagent:

acid;
enzymatic (enzymatic);
peptide;
alcohol;
biological.

The availability of the main components and the ease of use make it possible to carry out a chemical peel at home. True, this applies only to superficial cleansing, even medium peels should be carried out in a hospital to prevent complications and side effects.

For home cleansing and rejuvenation of facial skin, experts recommend the following types of chemical peels:

exposure to fruit acids. Allows you to refresh the tone of the face, even out its surface, get rid of acne, comedones and sebaceous plugs. The most commonly used ready-made chemical peel for the face based on malic, citric or glycolic acid. To care for the sensitive type of epidermis, you can try almond or milk peeling.
peptide and enzyme formulations. They practically do not cause discomfort, do not imply a violation of the integrity of the skin, and can be used as a means to instantly improve the condition and appearance of the face.
compositions based on biologically active components. It can be a chemical peeling from bodyagi, placenta extract, bamboo powder, Asian rolls with cellulose. With proper and regular sessions, you can count on a pronounced and lasting positive effect.

Even when used at low concentrations in combination with emollient ingredients, a chemical facial peel remains a serious test for the epidermis, can cause an unexpected violent reaction and exacerbate skin problems. Therefore, before using any composition, it is necessary to consult a specialist and carefully familiarize yourself with the technique of manipulation.

The main goals for which care is prescribed and carried out after chemical peeling are the elimination of unpleasant sensations, the prevention of complications, and the consolidation of a positive effect. Most practiced procedures cause damage to the integrity of the skin. Lack of proper care can cause the addition of a secondary infection, slow down regeneration processes, and aggravate existing problems.

There are types of chemical peels that have a very short recovery period and practically do not require special care for the epidermis. This is typical for enzyme exposure, if the composition of the preparations did not include fruit acids, peptide cleansing, retinoic peeling. During these sessions, the surface layers of the epidermis are not injured, therefore, rehabilitation measures are aimed only at moisturizing and nourishing tissues, accelerating the regenerative process, supplying cells with substances that accelerate the production of skin building materials.

With a more aggressive impact, leading to the discharge of the stratum corneum of the skin, in addition to these measures, the use of drugs that restore the water-lipid layer on the surface of the face and accelerate the process of epithelization is prescribed. If the performed chemical peeling for the face caused the appearance of unpleasant sensations in the form of itching, profuse peeling, burning and swelling, symptomatic therapy is carried out. Preparations can only be prescribed by a specialist who performed the cleaning procedure.

Skin care after deep peeling can last more than six months. In addition to the use of cosmetic drugs, painkillers and antibiotics are often prescribed to prevent suppuration of tissues and the formation of foci of infection.

When deciding to conduct an aggressive cleansing, it is necessary to prepare for the fact that the consequences of chemical peeling can be expressed not only by a rejuvenating effect and getting rid of a number of skin problems. Often, the restoration of the epidermis is accompanied by a wide range of expected and unexpected negative reactions.

Chemical peeling of the face causes the following positive effects:

cleansing and rejuvenation of the surface of the skin;
getting rid of severe problems characteristic of oily skin;
increased tone of the epidermis;
alignment of skin tone and relief;
getting rid of age spots.

Expected negative effects, which indicate that the chemical peel of the face had the necessary effect on the tissues, can be manifested in the form of:

burning sensation;
peeling;
redness;
tightness;
itching;
edema.

If the cleaning procedure was carried out with violations or a composition was used that did not correspond to the type and problems of the skin, chemical peeling for the face can cause a violent allergic reaction, an exacerbation of herpes, and the development of tissue infection.

In the world of modern cosmetology, there is a worthy alternative to chemical peeling, which allows you to get an equally pronounced effect and is used if the patient is afraid of getting chemical burns or it is impossible to perform a popular procedure.

We love and respect mechanical peeling based on cleansing the surface of the face with the help of abrasive particles. Various variations on the theme of the main component allow you to adjust the intensity of the procedure and the degree of impact on the tissue.

Biological rejuvenation options based on corals, herbs, and healing mud are gaining popularity. They have a minimal set of contraindications, are easy to use and can be carried out as needed.

Laser peeling and diamond face resurfacing are fairly new, but already well-established ways of facial rejuvenation. They are safe, effective and allow you to get rid of not only unnecessary wrinkles and age spots, but also unaesthetic moles, birthmarks, warts.

Chemical peeling (an alternative name is chemical exfoliation) is gaining more and more relevance among cosmetic procedures. This method of cleansing the surface of the face is highly effective and less traumatic. In addition, such an effect on the skin allows you to solve age-related problems of the dermis.

Although the very word "chemistry" often causes distrust (if not horror) in patients, in fact, such an intervention is by no means scary. Of course, in the hands of an amateur, a container of solutions will bring nothing but problems to the skin. But a high-quality cleaning performed by a cosmetologist-dermatologist will leave a pleasant impression, give the face an updated and well-groomed look.

Chemical peel - what is it? What are the features of this procedure? For whom is it suitable, and in what cases should it be avoided?

What is a chemical peel? This procedure involves exfoliation of the upper layer of the epidermis, consisting of dead, keratinized cells. Such manipulation is carried out with special preparations. This cleaning method allows you to smooth out or completely remove age spots or other defects, even out the surface of the face, and give it a natural shade.

Women who decide on this cleansing for the first time often ask themselves the question: chemical peeling of the face - what is it? This method is not in vain called the “derma renovator”. In addition to their cleansing functions, acid compositions perfectly rejuvenate cells by triggering the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Thus, chemical exfoliation is a universal procedure that solves several cosmetic problems at once.

Why do you need a chemical facial peel? Its primary task is to exfoliate the upper, keratinized layers of the epidermis, thereby creating a cleansing effect. This technique allows you to achieve an improvement in the condition of the dermis without surgical operations.

Also, this procedure is used to prevent the processes of withering of the integument or to correct existing age-related changes.

The skin after a chemical peel becomes soft, cleansed and renewed.

How does peeling work? Acid exfoliation is a burn of the upper layers of the epidermis. Although it sounds scary, there is nothing terrible in such a formulation, because the depth of the drug's effect is controlled by a cosmetologist. In response to a burn, the body launches recovery mechanisms, due to which it is possible to achieve rejuvenation and renewal of the integument, as well as solve multiple cosmetic problems.

Under the influence of the burn, active cell division of the dermis begins, the regeneration process accelerates and the appearance of the skin of the face improves.

There are two types of chemical peels:

deep peeling;
middle cleaning;
superficial exfoliation.

A cosmetologist will help determine which type of chemical peeling for the face will be best in a particular case.

For your information. In the case of available indications, it is possible to conduct non-traditional, original cleansing sessions, for example, blue peeling, etc.

Deep

Deep chemical peeling of the face involves burning the dermis down to the reticular layer. This manipulation is carried out exclusively in medical centers. Anesthesia is applied to the patient, and the procedure itself is carried out under the supervision of an anesthesiologist-rheumatologist. Deep peeling involves a long rehabilitation period (from 6 to 10 months).

For your information. If the procedure was performed without anesthesia, and the patient was allowed to go home on the same day, provided only with auxiliary means, it is time to suspect a trick. Most likely, under the guise of deep (for the corresponding price), a median cleansing of the surface of the face was carried out.

The main goals of deep exfoliation:

replacement of the outdated collagen-elastin scaffold.
Stimulation of the production of hyaluronic acid in order to provide an optimal level of hydration from the inside.
Renewal of cellular resources of the dermis.

Average

The average (medium) chemical peeling of the skin acts deeper and more thoroughly than the superficial one. But he cannot afford to renew the collagen-elastin skeleton and completely renew the dermis.

For your information. Competition among master cosmetologists has provoked an unprecedented surge in the popularity of median exfoliation. Often, it begins to be used already from the age of 18. But until the age of 35-40, it is not necessary to practice such a procedure without special need.

The main goals of this skin cleansing method are:

Active cell renewal in the upper layers of the dermis, its smoothing and compaction.
“Pulling up” the level of collagen production to the previous, “young” indicator.
Strengthening of the vascular walls, improvement of blood microcirculation.
Slow down the synthesis of melanin.

What does the face look like after an acid peel? Basically, such manipulation does not cause pain or negative reactions of the dermis. But in some cases, post-peeling scars or areas of skin with hypopigmentation, which contrast sharply with the rest of the integument, may form.

Surface

Superficial chemical peeling of the face has almost no effect on the deep layers of the dermis, affecting only its upper layers. That is, such drugs do not contain the necessary active ingredients for cell renewal.

In cosmetology, there are several main goals of surface peeling:

Stimulation of the renewal of the upper layers of the dermis.
Cleansing of the sebaceous glands.
Exfoliation of dead cells.
Antibacterial effect.
Elimination of hyperkeratosis.
Alignment of the surface and tone of the dermis.
An inhibitory effect on melanocytes that control hyperpigmentation.

People with teenage or young skin prone to oiliness, acne, acne or post-acne.
Patients aged 25-35 to maintain a good appearance of the skin and solve skin problems.
People 35-40 years old as a preparation for deep exfoliation.

The procedure for chemical peeling of the face includes the following steps:

Skin cleansing, make-up removal, degreasing of areas where the composition is planned to be applied.
The beautician wets a cotton applicator in a chemical solution, wringing it out carefully. The last action is performed to avoid getting the drug into the patient's eyes.
The doctor rubs the solution with an applicator into the skin of the client's face (this takes about 30 minutes). The specific time depends on the characteristics and general condition of the skin.
The "route" of movements is built in this way: forehead - nose - cheeks - chin. With the utmost care, the drug is rubbed into wrinkles and creases. During operation, the patient may feel a slight burning sensation.
Maintaining the composition on the face. Time is determined individually for each type of dermis.
At the end of the chemical peel procedure, the preparation is removed from the skin surface.
Application of protective and regenerating masks.

The procedure for chemical peeling of the face requires the use of special preparations. They are selected according to the individual characteristics of the client's dermis. The main components of these solutions are:

Beta hydroxy acids.
fruit acids.
Other types of acids: azelaic, retinoic, kojic, trichloroacetic, pyruvic, mandelic. Most often, a combination of these acids is used.

fruity

The so-called AHA acids or alpha hydroxy acids. These include citric, glycolic, malic, lactic and tartaric acids.

The main properties of AHA acids:

Stimulation of hydration of the epidermis.
The ability to accelerate the exfoliation of the upper layers of the skin.
Antioxidant effect.
The damaging effect on pathogens, which are the main cause of dermatological diseases.

Beta hydroxy acids

The so-called BHA acids. Unlike fruit acids, these acids are poorly soluble in water, and well - in fats.

Chemical peeling with BHA acids is used mainly for oily skin. These substances have an action similar to AHA acids, additionally affecting the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Under the influence of such acids, sebum softens, which is the prevention of the formation of acne, ureas and comedones.

The main representative of beta-hydroxy acids is salicylic acid.

Retinoic, kojic, azelaic

Includes all properties inherent in hydroxy acids. Also, these substances reduce the activity of melanocytes by blocking the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the production of melanin. The effect after peeling with these acids is predominantly whitening - age spots, freckles, acne and post-acne disappear. Peeling with these acids is relevant for clients suffering from rosacea.

Popular preparations for chemical peeling:

Russia. PREMIUM Professional.
Australia. Skin Doctors (product suitable for home use).
Japan. Bb Laboratories and
USA. Neostrata.
France. beautymed.

Despite the obvious benefits, chemical facial peels have contraindications and side effects. The latter do not always occur, but only in a number of cases when the recommendations for the procedure were not followed or due to individual reactions of the patient's skin.

Acid peeling can provoke the following consequences:

Edema.
Pain syndrome.
Scar formation.
Redness.
The introduction of infections.
Allergy.
Hypo- or hyperpigmentation.
Peeling of the skin, the formation of crusts.

The cosmetic procedure of acid peeling has the following contraindications:

Pregnancy, breastfeeding.
Colds.
Chronic diseases in acute form.
Tendency to scarring.
Fresh tan.
Traumatic procedures performed less than 2 months ago (laser resurfacing, deep cleaning, etc.).
Mental illness.
Oncological diseases.
Hypertrichosis.
Nevi, warts, papillomas on the face.
Skin hypersensitivity.
Injuries in the area of application (abrasions, wounds, scratches).
Hypertension.
Individual intolerance to the ingredients of the composition.
Couperose.
Menstruation.
Patient's age (less than 18 years).

What to expect from a chemical facial peel? This indicator will also be individual, because a lot depends on the client's skin type. There are 4 main skin types. Peeling can be carried out on each of them, but with different results.

1 type. No wrinkles, the client needs a three-fold peeling using weak acids. The procedure aims to prevent aging and is carried out once a year.

2 type. The presence of facial wrinkles in the corners of the eyes, deep creases during the manifestation of emotions, there are local areas of hyperpigmentation. Seven peelings with fruit acids are recommended. It needs to be done twice a year.

3 type. Impaired pigmentation, wrinkles around the eyes, mouth, forehead. Regular peeling with fruit acids is recommended.

4 type. Impaired pigmentation, multiple deep creases on the surface of the skin. In these cases, fruit acids are not enough. Three cleansings with trichloroacetic acid and further peelings with glycolic acid are recommended.

The best results after chemical peeling are usually achieved by the epidermis of skin types 2 and 3. But representatives of type 4 can also count on improving the condition of the skin, subject to the correct actions of the master.

The face after chemical peeling becomes cleansed and renewed. High-quality exfoliation helps to achieve additional results:

Skin rejuvenation.
Softening, giving velvety to the covers.
Toning.
Regeneration.
Smoothing fine wrinkles, reducing deep ones.
Ripping out of the relief of the skin.
Elimination of age spots.

Summary

Chemical peeling for the face is a modern and effective way to cleanse the skin. This procedure is also suitable for those who strive to have a clean face, as well as for clients who want to restore youth to the covers. After the applied acid peeling, the skin regains its beauty, freshness, even tone and softness.

Peeling, or exfoliation, is the removal of keratinized epidermis scales. A simple technique allows you to narrow the pores, restore a healthy complexion, as well as even out the surface of the skin, making it smooth and velvety. Is this not the dream of all, without exception, the representatives of the beautiful half of humanity? Since the procedure is short and not very expensive, millions of ladies around the world regularly bring beauty in this way, both at home and in salons. Currently, in cosmetology, the following types of peelings are distinguished:

chemical;
mechanical;

In this article, we will take a closer look at chemical peeling, because it has long been one of the most popular and effective, we will touch on both its positive and negative sides, and learn how to choose the right composition depending on skin type.

What is a chemical facial peel?

Chemical peeling is a procedure for removing a layer of keratinized epithelium using acid solutions in low concentrations. The main goal of this technique is facial care after 25 years, maintaining skin tone and smoothness. A special composition applied to the surface of the epidermis helps to quickly renew it, making the skin smooth and supple. Due to cell division, fine wrinkles leave their owners immediately, and deep ones decrease more and more with each session.

The main active ingredients in any chemical exfoliation are acids. Depending on their concentration, there are several types of cosmetic peels:

surface;
median;
deep.

Superficial chemical peel

This light type of peeling is one of the most common, it is often used at home without fear of causing a burn. The compositions of such peels usually include lactic, salicylic or glycolic acids, which do not differ in aggressive effects. This peeling helps to get rid of:

age spots;
acne;
acne
freckles;
enlarged pores;
shine of the face with oily skin type.

Medium chemical peel

This type of peeling is performed with 20-50% trichloroacetic acid and acts on all layers of the epidermis. With this procedure, you can eliminate:

pigmentation;
scars and scars;
fine wrinkles and reduce deep ones;

Median chemical peeling can be used not only for the face, it is also perfect for the décolleté, hands and feet. Most often, women aged 25-30 resort to this type of peeling. Unlike superficial, median peeling requires some preparation before the procedure. Two weeks before visiting a cosmetologist, it is necessary to use creams containing glycolic acid, or go for a single superficial peeling procedure to properly prepare the skin.

Deep peeling

For deep peeling, phenol derivatives are used, which affect all layers of the skin, while severely damaging it. That is why this procedure is not so often used in cosmetology, being considered very aggressive. This view is shown with:

deep wrinkles, loose skin and widespread pigmentation in people over 60;
rough scars.

Unlike the previous two, this type of peeling is very painful and is performed under anesthesia. After the procedure, it is necessary to observe bed rest and take anti-inflammatory drugs for a long time, it is also worth avoiding direct sunlight on the face for the entire rehabilitation period, which is about 3-4 weeks.

How is the procedure of superficial and median peels

Depending on the problem area, as well as on the depth of exposure, the time of the procedure also depends. On average, it takes from 20-30 minutes, but can reach up to 1 hour. Professional chemical peeling is performed by a dermatologist in the salon.

Before the procedure, together with a specialist, it is necessary to discuss all the indications, contraindications, concentration of acids, the number of procedures to achieve the desired effect, and it is mandatory to conduct an allergic test for the agent that will be used for chemical peeling.

If there is no allergy to drugs, the cosmetologist proceeds to perform the manipulation:

The skin is cleansed with special products, which are selected individually for each, depending on the type and age-related changes in the skin.
After cleaning, the acids themselves are applied directly to the dry surface, as a rule, starting with the application of low concentration acids (10-15%) with a low pH (equal to 4). With each subsequent procedure, the concentration of acids increases, and the pH decreases. During the last session, the concentration can reach 80%, and the pH is 0.8.
The applied solution is left for several minutes (the exact amount of time depends on the exposure of the drug), while the patient may feel slight discomfort, which manifests itself in tingling and tingling of the skin.
Having withstood the right time, the beautician applies an alkali to the skin, which instantly normalizes the pH level and neutralizes the action of acids.
After the main procedure, the doctor applies a soothing cream or mask with light massaging movements, thereby relieving discomfort.
The final step is the application of a cream or serum with a protective factor from ultraviolet exposure.

Deep chemical peel procedure

As for the deep peeling procedure, it is fundamentally different from the superficial and median ones in that during the procedure the patient is connected to a heart monitor and is in an artificial sleep.

In order for the procedure to pass without complications, it is necessary to adhere to the following rules:

before the start of the process, the patient is advised to drink 2 liters of water;
during the procedure, you need to inject a glucose solution intravenously, which will prevent dehydration of the body;
phenol is applied little by little to deliberately divided zones with pauses of 10-15 minutes;
after removing phenol from the surface, it is treated with antiseptic agents, if necessary, painkillers are administered;
after all stages, a greasy layer of cream is applied.

After peeling, it is necessary to constantly moisturize the face, using fatty creams for this. Also, in order to prevent unwanted complications and reduce discomfort, all patients who have undergone a deep peeling procedure take NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs).

Since chemical peeling involves the use of acids that damage the skin, this procedure is appropriate to carry out only in the cold season (late autumn, winter, early spring). In the summer, chemical peeling is strictly contraindicated.

As with any cosmetic procedure, there are indications and contraindications for chemical peeling.

Indications:

age spots, scars, acne, freckles, acne, stretch marks;
wrinkles;
uneven skin relief;
oily skin.

Contraindications to chemical peeling can be divided into absolute and relative.

The absolute ones are:

inflammatory processes and various lesions of the skin;
allergic reactions to chemicals used in the procedure;
pregnancy, lactation;
epilepsy;
renal and / or liver failure;
cardiovascular diseases.

The relative ones are:

any neoplasms;
keloid scars;
rosacea;
herpetic eruptions;
allergic dermatitis;
sensitive skin;
mental illness.

Currently, almost no salon can do without a chemical peeling procedure. Prices for the services of a cosmetologist vary significantly, and mainly depend on the means that are used during the session. If we take the cost of the most famous peelings in Moscow, then the prices are as follows:

Glycolic peeling - from 700 to 13,000 rubles.
Yellow peeling - from 1500 to 25000 rubles.
- from 3500 to 27000 rubles.
- from 1500 to 20000 rubles.
Salicylic peeling - from 1700 to 25000 rubles.

Based on the rather high prices for this procedure, many are wondering if it is possible to do a chemical peel at home? Of course you can, but you should choose the right funds for the procedure, and follow certain rules in order to avoid complications. In addition, only the most harmless peeling can be done at home - superficial. All others are carried out only with the help of professional compositions in salons.

At home, you can use products sold in specialized stores, or you can cook them yourself. It should be remembered that the concentration of acids should be minimal so as not to destroy the deeper layers of the skin and cause a serious burn. The most common pharmaceutical peeling products are salicylic, glycolic, lactic or mandelic acids. The procedure for the procedure at home is as follows:

Before applying the composition to the skin, it is imperative to do an allergic test. To do this, a small amount of the product should be applied to the skin of the wrist and evenly distributed, observing the skin reaction for 15 minutes. If the surface has not undergone any changes during this time, this peeling can be safely applied already on the face.
To prepare the skin, it must first be cleaned. To do this, you can use a special milk or micellar water.
On a dry, cleaned surface, apply an acid composition and distribute it evenly. The average exposure time is 5-7 minutes.
After the time has passed, the peeling should be washed off very thoroughly with warm water.
The final touch is the application of a buffer solution to restore normal pH.
If desired, you can apply a nourishing cream to the skin.

For each skin type, the number of procedures and recommendations are different. For oily skin, exfoliation can be applied daily, and a chemical superficial peel once every 10 days. For dry skin, a course of 7-10 sessions with an interval of 7 days is required, while it is desirable to use fruit acids that moisturize the skin.

Recipes for making peeling at home

Salt peeling

Take 1 tablespoon of cream and 1 teaspoon of salt, mix thoroughly. Apply to cleansed skin in an even layer and after 20 minutes wash off with cool water and soap (acting as alkali). Then apply a face cream.

Classic peeling

Take equal amounts of ammonia and camphor alcohol (about 15 ml each), mix them with glycerin, boric acid and a pre-crushed tablet of hydroperite (urea peroxide). Add grated soap to the resulting mixture until a creamy consistency is obtained. Apply to the skin and wait until the mixture is completely dry. Wash off with 10% calcium chloride applied to a tissue. Finally, rinse your face with warm water. This recipe helps to get rid of acne, acne and age spots on the face.

Peeling with lactic acid

Apply a solution of lactic acid to the cleansed skin of the face, while starting from top to bottom, that is, from the forehead and ending with the chin. It should be washed off after 2 minutes, while the movements should be carried out in reverse - from the bottom up, that is, from the chin to the forehead. After the procedure, it is necessary to apply a cream or make a soothing mask. Such peeling is carried out once every 10 days. The course is 10 procedures.

Chemical peel during pregnancy

During pregnancy, hormonal changes occur in the body of every expectant mother, which, in turn, affects the condition of the skin, and not always in a positive direction. Many women use various peels before pregnancy, including chemical peels, so they have a question: is it possible to resort to this procedure during childbearing to improve the condition of their skin?

Not all chemical peels are safe for the expectant mother and her baby. During this period, it is worth abandoning deep peeling, as it has an aggressive effect on the skin. In order for acids not to harm the baby, it is necessary to carefully approach the choice of composition, and best of all, consult with a specialist first.

Chemical peeling consists of a large amount of acids, and the main component in almost all solutions is vitamin A. Excessive intake of this vitamin in the body of a pregnant woman can have a teratogenic effect on the fetus. Safe peels include milk, almond and glycol. They do not penetrate deep into the skin, but act only on its surface. It follows from this that it is possible to use during pregnancy only with the lightest types of peeling after the approval of the doctor.

Chemical peeling for hands

Since the skin of the hands is daily exposed to various environmental stimuli, it ages early, pigment spots often form on it. No wonder they say that a woman's age can be easily guessed by her hands. Chemical peels can also help with this problem. A few weeks before the procedure, you can not sunbathe, it is necessary to protect the skin of the hands with special creams.

Before the procedure, the dermatologist determines the phototype and condition of the skin and, based on the data obtained, selects the topical remedy. Most often, median peeling is used for the hands. The skin is degreased, the solution is applied in several layers, so that the substances act more intensively. A few days after the procedure, swelling and redness of the skin may occur. A chemical hand peel requires at least six sessions spaced two weeks apart.

Foot peeling

For the legs, fruit acids are most often used, as they penetrate deep into the tissues without damaging them. This is a very important aspect, because corns and rough skin are often formed on the feet, and with the help of these properties of acids, you can easily get rid of these problems. To be effective and reduce the number of procedures, mixtures of acids are used, which help not only to get rid of skin problems, but also to give it a fresh look.

Body chemical peel

Depending on the peeling area and the desired effect, the dermatologist will select the individual concentration of the solution and the number of procedures. Most often, glycolic acid is used for body peeling in concentrations from 5% to 70%. During the procedure, dead particles of the epithelium are removed, acne, scars disappear, and the function of the sebaceous glands improves.

Chemical peel for stretch marks

Stretch marks (striae) - strips of various colors, resembling scars, which are formed due to long-term stretching of the skin. For many women, they appear during pregnancy, but they can also form with a sharp weight gain, or vice versa - excessively rapid weight loss. In the fight against them, chemical peeling is now effectively helping. With the help of acids, the texture of the skin is leveled, the processes of cell regeneration are launched.

Laser resurfacing or chemical peeling - what to choose?

Laser resurfacing and chemical peeling are aimed at the same goal - to remove keratinized scales from the surface of the skin. The advantage of the laser is that the depth of the beam can be adjusted with high precision, and the skin is not exposed to chemicals such as phenol.

In addition, the entire procedure of laser resurfacing can be carried out in just one session, without prior preparation, which cannot be said about chemical peeling. But chemical peeling also has many advantages, for example, superficial peeling can be used during pregnancy, and laser resurfacing is completely contraindicated in this condition.

Therefore, it is impossible to answer the question unambiguously, which is better, both methods have their pros and cons, so the choice depends on the specific problem, contraindications, age and many other factors that the doctor takes into account.

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Chemical peeling for the face

The word "peeling" comes from the English "to peel" - "to clean", "to peel". This is indeed with the aim of improving its appearance and general condition. A special place among various peelings is occupied by facial chemical peel. With this peeling, there is not mechanical exfoliation, which does not exclude the violation of the integrity of the skin, but the dissolution of dead cells of the surface layer of the skin upon contact with the peeling components. As a rule, the active components of chemical peels are organic acids.

Types of chemical peels according to the depth of exposure

Superficial peeling has an effect within several layers of keratinized cells of the epidermis. It is the most gentle type of chemical peel. After that, you can continue your normal life. Mainly recommended for young problematic skin. The effect does not last long, repeated courses are required.

Median peeling affects the entire stratum corneum of the epidermis to the basement membrane. After this peeling, a home regimen is required for a week, since hyperemia remains on the face and small- or large-lamellar peeling occurs. It is carried out to solve some specific problems, as well as to combat age-related skin changes. The effect lasts for a long time, repeated courses only after a year.

Deep chemical peel- rejection of the epidermis with damage to the basement membrane. The procedure is quite responsible and carried out under anesthesia, since it is nothing more than a chemical burn of the skin of the face with subsequent regeneration of the epidermis. It is carried out in a hospital and is aimed at removing deep wrinkles and scars. The effect lasts for a very long time up to several years, but you can do it only once, the rehabilitation period lasts about 5 months.

The main tasks of chemical peeling

1. Exfoliation (peeling) of keratinized cells of the epidermis, leading to proliferation (reproduction) of cells of the basal layer, that is, to the renewal of the entire skin.

2. Elimination of imperfections and skin problems due to exfoliation and due to the specific properties of acids.

3. Mobilization of the protective and regenerating functions of the skin due to the stress action of acids.

Skin before and after chemical peel

What is a chemical peel for?

Chemical peeling is often the procedure of choice for correcting cosmetic defects in the skin of the face and other parts of the body. As a result, patients receive:

Improving the appearance of the skin - it becomes smoother, softer, has a uniform color

The disappearance of age spots, the effects of acne, scars and stretch marks

Normalizes the pH of the skin and the functioning of the sebaceous glands

Facial skin rejuvenation by smoothing wrinkles, increasing skin firmness and elasticity due to increased collagen synthesis

Good mood and increased self-esteem

Indications and contraindications

Indications for a chemical peel

Indications for a chemical peel

1. Problematic skin (post-acne, acne, comedones)
2. Presence of hyperpigmentation
3. Skin with low tone, not elastic, flabby
4. Age-related skin changes
5. Photoaging (skin exposed to excessive UV radiation)
6. Presence of scars and ingrown hairs
7. Oily skin with enlarged pores
8. Thickening of the horny layer of the skin, in which it becomes uneven
9. Dull skin color
10. Preparatory stage before more serious and deep cosmetic procedures.

Indications for chemical peeling by age

1. Adolescence from 14 years of age as prescribed by a doctor according to indications.

2. 25-30 years with acne, post-acne, hyperpigmentation, photoaging, in order to prevent skin aging.

3. 35 and older age groups for the prevention and treatment of cosmetic skin defects and as preparation for other cosmetic surgeries.

Contraindications for chemical peeling

Absolute contraindications for chemical peeling:

1. Any chronic diseases in the acute stage
2. Colds
3. Pregnancy and lactation
4. Tendency to form hypertrophic and keloid scars
5. The need for radiotherapy
6. Fresh tan
7. Recently (less than 8 weeks ago) traumatic procedures (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing)
8. Mental illness
9. Individual intolerance to individual peeling ingredients
10. Reception of immunosuppressants, retinoids, drugs with a photosensitizing effect
11. Pronounced rosacea
12. Oncological diseases
13. IV-VI skin phototypes determined by Fitzpatrick
14. Skin diseases (eczema, allergic dermatosis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, etc.) in the acute stage
15. Infectious skin diseases (viral, bacterial, fungal)
16. Violation of the integrity of the skin, injuries in the area of peeling
17. Poor wound healing
18. Diabetes mellitus and hypertension

Relative contraindications for chemical peeling:

1. Multiple nevi
2. Hypertrichosis
3. Increased skin sensitivity
4. The patient's age is less than 18 years
5. Menstruation

Mechanism of action of acid peeling

1. Damage to the epidermis (chemical burn).

2. In response, skin cells begin to intensively produce inflammatory mediators, signal molecules, enzyme growth factors.

3. There is an increase in the mitotic activity of basal cells (cells are actively renewed).

4. New vessels are formed and the production of fibroblasts is activated, leading to the synthesis of new collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans and enzymes.

5. There is a thickening and thickening of the dermis and hydration of all layers of the skin.

The structure of the skin

Knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of the skin is necessary to understand the mechanism of action of certain cosmetic procedures.

Leather is not just a shell that covers the human body. This is a full-fledged organ that performs a number of specific functions and has a complex structure. The mass of the entire skin is approximately 5% of body weight. There are approximately 5 million hairs on the surface of human skin. For every square centimeter of human skin, there are an average of 100 pores and 200 receptors.

Full renewal of young skin occurs in 28 days, with age this process slows down every year, and the stratum corneum will thicken and become uneven. And also the thickness of the stratum corneum can be compacted under the influence of ultraviolet rays.

Human skin has a constant pH of 3.5-5.6, if it shifts too much, skin problems such as rashes or irritations can occur. pH up to 3.5 (acidic) is typical for dry skin, pH more than 5.6 (slightly acidic) - for oily skin. And there can also be mixed skin, when the skin type is different in certain areas. And therefore, in order to choose the right cosmetics, you need to know your skin type.

In the structure of the skin, three main layers are distinguished - the epidermis (surface layer of the skin), the dermis, or the skin itself, and the subcutaneous fat (hypoderm). Each of these three layers has its own layers, appendages and elements.

The most significant in cosmetology is the surface layer of the skin - the epidermis. Its structure is multi-layered. In the epidermis, the pigment melanin is produced, the amount of which determines the color of the skin and its intensity.

Fat-soluble substances, unlike aqueous solutions, penetrate the epidermis well, since cell membranes contain a large amount of fats and these substances seem to “dissolve” in cell membranes. There are no blood vessels in the epidermis; its nutrition occurs due to the diffusion of tissue fluid from the underlying layer of the dermis.

The basis of the epidermis is the basal membrane, the germinal layer of intensively multiplying cells that replace those that die off and exfoliate daily.

Above the basal layer is a prickly layer, the cells of which have processes in the form of spikes. It is here, in the intercellular space, that the circulation of lymph occurs, providing nutrition and metabolism in the cells of the epidermis.

Above the prickly layer, the granular, shiny and horny (uppermost) layers of the epidermis are successively located.

epidermal cells

1. Keratinocytes- these are cells of the spiny, basal and granular layers, they are in constant motion. They are formed due to the division of the germ cells of the basement membrane, located on the border of the epidermis and dermis. They grow up and move from the lower layers to the upper ones (from the spiny layer to the granular one), during which time keratin (a very strong protein) accumulates in keratinocytes.

2. Corneocytes are formed at the end of the life path of keratinocytes and represent a cell without a nucleus and basic organelles, something like a "pouch" stuffed with keratin. Corneocytes are dead cells that form the stratum corneum and are flat scales. They perform the barrier function of the epidermis.

Corneocytes move further up, and when they reach the surface of the skin, they exfoliate and new ones come in their place. Renewal of corneocytes occurs on average in three weeks.

Corneocytes are held together by a special substance, which consists of a double layer of special lipids - ceramides (ceramides). Ceramide (ceramide) molecules have hydrophilic "heads" (fragments that love water) and lipophilic "tails" (fragments that prefer fats).

3. Melanocytes- These are cells that are located on the basement membrane among the growth layer of the epithelium, these cells produce melanin. This pigment performs a protective function, and protects a person from infrared radiation and partially ultraviolet. Also, its color depends on the saturation of melanin in the skin. In some cases, the formation of age spots depends on the state of the basement membrane.

4. Langerhans cells, which perform a protective function against foreign bodies and microbes.

5. Merkel cells- These are tactile cells that are located in the basal layer of the epidermis. They carry out skin sensitivity. Most of them are in the skin of the fingertips, on the tip of the nose and erogenous zones.

Beneath the basement membrane is the skin itself, or dermis. It contains papillary and reticular layers. The papillary layer borders on the epidermis. The papillary pattern on the palms and feet is nothing more than the papillae of the dermis translucent through the epidermis. Below is the reticular layer, which contains the sebaceous and sweat glands, hair follicles, nerve endings (skin receptors), as well as collagen and elastic fibers.

The elasticity and strength of the skin directly depend on the presence of elastic fibers and the amount of collagen in the dermis.

The subcutaneous fat layer is located under the reticular layer of the dermis and performs cushioning and warming functions.

The mechanism of action of acids on the skin

Chemical peels use organic acids. For the surface - fruit, for the middle - trichloroacetic (TCA), for deep - phenolic and trichloroacetic higher concentrations.

Acid, when exposed to the skin, depending on the concentration and exposure, dissolves keratinized cells of the upper layers of the epidermis, and sometimes the entire epidermis, up to the basement membrane.

In other words, when applying a peeling mixture, we get a controlled chemical burn of the skin of the face. Unlike a traumatic burn, here the depth of acid exposure is clearly controlled by the cosmetologist - this allows you to solve exactly those problems of the patient that brought him to the cosmetology clinic.

Fruit and some other acids have an exfoliating effect, which is achieved by weakening the adhesion (cohesion) of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. In response to increased desquamation, active cell division of the basal layer is triggered.

And they also have a moisturizing effect on the skin as a result of accelerated renewal of the epidermis, since on the surface of keratinocytes there is a complex of hygroscopic molecules, or a natural moisturizing factor NMF. This factor is found in greater quantities in young cells.

Chemical acids have a stimulating effect on skin fibroblasts and thus promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen.

The stress theory also explains the increased synthesis of the intercellular substance of the dermis. In response to stress, the skin's defense systems are activated. The skin is mobilized, the reparative activity of skin cells is enhanced, and the synthesis of vital molecules is accelerated.

The result will be a thinning of the epidermis and a thickening of the dermis layer. The skin on the surface becomes more resilient and elastic, fine wrinkles are smoothed out.
Acids normalize the lipid balance, cleanse the ducts of the sebaceous glands, thereby reducing the oiliness of the skin and preventing the appearance of comedones and acne.

Due to the exfoliation of keratinized cells of the epidermis, a whitening effect is achieved. Plus, some acids act on the production of melanin, and thus also contribute to skin lightening.

Stages of a chemical peel

1. Pre-peel preparation. Purpose: adaptation of the skin to acid and leveling of the top layer for better penetration of the peeling composition. It starts 1-2 weeks before the procedure. Use preparations containing low concentrations of acids.

2. Peeling. Purpose: to obtain the desired result depending on the choice of active acid. It is carried out according to the protocol. The concentration, pH and exposure time are chosen by the beautician.

3. Post-peel care. Purpose: to avoid complications and fix the result of peeling. Means for home skin care are prescribed by a beautician, and you need to follow all his instructions. Also be sure to use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30.

Competently conducted pre-peeling preparation, expertly performed peeling, as well as properly selected post-peeling care significantly reduce the risk of complications. All expected reactions and complications are well described in the article by O.V. Zabnenkova Candidate of Medical Sciences, Senior Researcher of the Laboratory for the Study of Skin Reparative Processes, Moscow Medical Academy. THEM. Sechenov.

Photos before and after chemical peeling

Phenol peeling

Jessner Peel

fruit acids

Peeling with fruit acids is extremely popular due to its gentle action and the almost complete absence of discomfort during and after the procedure.

Fruit acids are used for superficial peeling, and are so called because one of the main sources of these acids are fruits. True, they contain them in concentrations that are very different from peeling ones.

The most commonly used is glycolic (hydroxyacetic) acid. Its use contributes to a soft smoothing of the skin relief, normalization of the production of melanin and keratin. After glycol peeling, collagen synthesis is enhanced, which gives the skin additional firmness and elasticity. Glycolic acid has a pronounced anti-inflammatory and stimulating effect, as a result of which the patient receives an excellent rejuvenating effect from the procedure. Of no small importance is the use of glycolic acid for the prevention and treatment of skin diseases such as molluscum contagiosum.

In addition to glycolic, for superficial chemical peeling, lactic, mandelic, malic, pyruvic acids are used. All of them exfoliate the stratum corneum of the epidermis well, however, each of these acids has specific features. For example, pyruvic acid is well suited for sensitive and weakened skin, increasing its density and elasticity, protecting against moisture loss and strengthening the skin's barrier function.

Lactic acid, on the contrary, has a delicate emollient effect, regulating hydrobalance and providing an anti-inflammatory effect. Peeling with lactic acid is especially valuable because it can be carried out at any time of the year, without fear of developing hyperpigmentation, as with other peels.

However, peeling with fruit acids is suitable only for young patients whose skin has a high regenerative potential. Problems of mature skin are solved by other types of chemical peeling.

Acids used for medium peeling

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA peel) and salicylic acid are used for median or superficial-median peels. High concentrations of TCA - 40-35% - are already classified as deep effects, this is equivalent to surgical cosmetology and requires special conditions for implementation.

Median peeling, and, accordingly, the acids used in it, are designed to solve age-related skin changes - such as stretch marks, post-acne scars, superficial hyperpigmentation, wrinkles around the eyes, forehead, upper and lower lips. The effectiveness of the procedure is comparable to laser skin resurfacing.

A distinctive feature of TCA peeling is obtaining a frost effect ("hoarfrost") - the treated area of the skin turns slightly white. This is a sign of protein denaturation and the formation of a barrier film that prevents further penetration of the acid deep into the skin. The cosmetologist determines the exposure time depending on the type of skin - on dry, thin and sensitive facial skin, frost appears literally in the first or second minute of peeling, on the skin of the body where postpartum stretch marks need to be removed - the exposure is approximately 10-15 minutes.

After TCA peeling, the skin especially needs care - moisturizing, protection from ultraviolet radiation, stimulation of regenerative processes in the skin. Peeling with trichloroacetic acid is done only in the autumn-winter period, when the activity of the sun is minimal - the probability of stimulating pigment formation in the renewed skin is very high.

Salicylic acid is used for medium peeling due to its ability to cause deep and severe peeling. The acid content in the peeling composition can reach 30%. Usually this is a 20-25% solution of salicylic acid in isopropyl alcohol.

The action of the acid