How to use a straight razor. how to shave, straight razor shave, shaving technique, razor care, shaving tips

Until recently, you could only see how to shave with a dangerous razor in the movies, but now more and more men prefer it in everyday life. Using a dangerous blade isn't just about removing excess facial hair. This is adrenaline-fueled art, a craftsmanship that needs to be polished.

A dangerous or bladed razor is a tool with an open blade. Shaving with a straight razor has often been the cause of cuts, as it is a procedure that requires a cool head and a steady hand.

There are different types of blade razors. They are heavy, made of a single piece of metal, and lightweight - empty and half-empty. A simple razor consists of a handle and a working part. The latter, in turn, has a head, a back with a double base, a blade, an eral (tail) and a heel.

The blade razor head can be round, rectangular, semi-circular, oblique, "French" or notched. The rectangular head is the most common because its sharp angles allow you to shave hair in the most inaccessible places, but at the same time it is the most dangerous type of device. Sharpening a straight razor takes time and skill.

The distance between the "back" and the tip is measured in eighths of an inch. Narrow razors with a 4/8 blade are used for trimming beards and shaving in hard-to-reach places. The most popular size is 5/8, but there are also fans of wide 7/8 or 8/8 inch blades.

Another important characteristic of a bladed razor is the geometry of the blade. It can have a wedge-shaped, biconcave or mixed shape.

The blade can be made of different types of steel:

Damascus is the most durable, reliable and expensive. This is an almost eternal tool, but it is difficult to sharpen it.
Carbon. The blade of this material can be sharpened to the state of a scalpel. At the same time, carbon steel corrodes quickly.
Stainless. Sharpening these blades is not easy, but they are not afraid of corrosion and last a long time.

The handle is made of wood, bone, horn, steel and plastic. There are expensive antique models with an ivory handle.

Advantages

The main advantages of a straight razor:

Does not irritate sensitive skin. Some cosmetologists claim that shaving in this way is the safest and even beneficial for the skin. It has to do with cutting hair.
Provides a closer shave. A well-sharpened tool in skilled hands cuts hair more thoroughly than its safe counterparts.
The blade can be sharpened by yourself.
Multifunctionality.
Savings through durability.

Flaws

The main drawback of a dangerous razor lies in its name. An unprotected blade in inexperienced hands can cause severe cuts, while a poorly sharpened blade can lead to skin irritation and a poor shave. A dangerous razor does not forgive fussiness, haste and careless attitude.

Another disadvantage is the difficulty of acquiring a good tool and its high cost. At the same time, a quality razor will last for many years.

Preparing for the procedure and what you need

Professional barbers put a damp, hot towel on their face before shaving. This is done to make the skin and hair softer. The towel is kept on the face for about 4 minutes. To soften the bristles, special conditioners and oils are used, which must be washed off before applying shaving cream.

At home, before manipulation, you need to wash in warm water with soap. The hotter the water, the better.

For shaving, you will need a container for foaming cream and shaving brushes. The brush can be selected from badger, pig or synthetic bristles. The size of the shaving brush should be sufficient for easy application of the cream, but not too large. The larger it is, the higher the consumption of the product and the more likely it is to get dirty or get into your nose or mouth.

First you need to fill the container with hot water and lower the shaving brush into it. After that, it will become soft and will qualitatively perform its functions - lather and evenly apply the cream on the bristles. After steaming, cream or soap is added to the container and foamed with a shaving brush. The result should be a dense and resistant foam. The resulting product must be carefully applied to the face with light circular movements in a thick layer.

Shaving Rules and Techniques

There are a few simple rules on how to properly shave with a straight razor:

It is important to remain calm during the procedure.
The blade must be well sharpened. This affects both the quality of the shave and its safety. The sharper the blade, the less cuts.
In the process of shaving, you need to use your hands to pull the skin down. This will greatly facilitate the removal of stubble by increasing the viewing angle and protect against cuts.
First, the hair is removed in the direction of growth, and then against. It takes 3 sets to get the best result. Between them, it is necessary to cover the face with foam again.
Each approach begins with short strokes, and ends with long strokes. It is necessary before each movement of the hand to pull the skin down with a free hand from the razor.
Do not hold the point sideways or parallel to the skin.
You don't have to put in extra effort while shaving.

How to hold a razor

You can hold your razor in a variety of ways:

The thumb is placed on the back side of the back, the little finger - on the point so that the heel (sting) is located between the little finger and the ring finger. The rest of the fingers are held on top of the earl.
The little finger is located on the notch of the tail, the big one is on the flat part of the erl on the inside, and the rest are on the outside. The sting in this case looks up.
The middle and index fingers are placed on the inside of the erl, the ring finger is placed on the inside of the shank, holding it, and the little finger is placed on the tail notch. With your thumb, we support the butt at the junction of the shank with the canvas. The sting in this case also looks up, and the handle fits snugly to the wrist.
The hand should move often, easily, rhythmically. If you put pressure on the blade or use your whole hand, you can cut yourself or pull out hairs.

Correct skin tightening

The technique of shaving with a dangerous razor includes the correct stretching of the skin during the procedure. This must be done in the opposite direction of the razor.

The skin is stretched with the index or middle finger, which is placed 2-3 cm below the blade. Only after this is the movement of the razor made.

Blade Angle

The tool should move head forward at an inclination of 30-40°. This will ensure easy glide and effective hair removal. If the angle is sharper, the razor will slide over the stubble without cutting. If more, increase the likelihood of cuts. In order to obtain the necessary inclination of the blade, it is applied flat to the skin, and then, gradually raising, the required angle is achieved.

Stages of the procedure

Shaving with a dangerous razor begins from the line of the temple, setting the blade on its edging, to the cheek. Then we direct the handle to the lower jaw. In the middle of the cheek, turn the tool towards the earlobe and move towards the jaw.

We shave the neck from the angle of the lower jaw down. You need to be especially careful in the ear area, where there are often bumps and skin folds. To avoid cuts, with the thumb of your free hand, move the lobe to the side, pulling the skin and covering the ear with your hand, as a limiter.

Now the razor needs to be taken in the third way. The tool should be placed in the middle of the cheek, directing the head under the cheekbone. It is necessary to shave in the direction of the lips, passing the bulge of the lower jaw and the mustache area. When removing the bristles in the corner of the mouth, the toe of the instrument is lowered until it coincides with the line of the mouth. Then we shave off the whiskers - the hair near the lower lip.

Since there is an anatomical cavity in this place, you need to lift the skin with your tongue from the inside. Helping yourself with facial muscles and tongue can facilitate the process of shaving. When shaving under the lower lip, one must be especially careful not to cut the small protrusion under it.

The next step is to shave your mustache. In this zone, hair grows from top to bottom. Here it is worth helping yourself with the muscles of the face, stretching and smoothing the skin. Additionally, you can lift the tip of the nose with your free hand.

We take the razor in our hands in 1 way, we remove the hair with short and clear strokes. We shave the sides of the mustache from right to left with the toe of the razor, in the direction of the middle of the upper lip, holding the razor in the third way.

We remove hair from the chin to the middle of the jaw, holding the tool in 1 or 2 way. Here we stretch the skin a little differently - in 2 directions with two fingers of the free hand. We put one on the chin, the other on the jaw, and place the razor between them. We remove the hair, going a little beyond the corner of the jaw.

The final step is shaving the neck. Here, the Adam's apple is a dangerous area. To prevent cuts, the skin is pulled a little to the side. It is more convenient to hold the razor in 2 ways.

Repeated hair removal is performed in the opposite direction. The process starts this time from the lower part of the neck and ends at the temples. It is more convenient to shave the right side of the face in 3 ways, and the left side - choosing the option that least hides the view.

We move from below, smoothly passing through the angle of the jaw to the cheek. We move from the cheek to the chin, removing the lower part of the mustache and the hair in the corners of the mouth along the way. Finally, shave the chin and upper lip. If a third pass is required, shave against hair growth.

Shaving the head with a straight razor starts from the front and sides. The approach is the same as for the face. First, shave the hair in the direction of growth, and then - against it. To process the back of the head, use a hand or table mirror.

Shaving this area is difficult due to the occipital folds of the skin and the curves of the skull. If you are unsure of yourself, it is better to finish shaving with a safety razor.

Skin care after shaving

After shaving, wash off the remaining foam with cool water to close the pores on the skin. Since exfoliation occurs in the process of working with an open blade (the top layer of the epidermis is removed), aggressive skin care products, including alcohol-containing ones, can lead to irritation and peeling.

Alcohol can be used to treat cuts and scratches. After washing, you can put a towel moistened with warm water or a decoction of herbs (chamomile, calendula, etc.) with the addition of essential oils to your face.

Sharpening is carried out in several stages, using stones of different abrasiveness - whetstones. Ruled with a belt. For the first time, GOI paste can be used to correct sharpening.

Before starting sharpening, it is necessary to evaluate and, if necessary, correct the geometry of the blade. It affects the choice of whetstone and sharpening method.

To determine the geometry, the razor is placed on a flat surface and viewed how many gaps there are between the blade and the surface. The butt and edge on both sides should fit snugly against the plane. If there are gaps, they must first be eliminated with a stone with a large abrasive.

A razor sharpened at the corners has a cutting edge sharpening angle of 16°. The process takes place in three ways: with the help of a stone, a skin and a belt.

Stone

Water stones are moistened with water before work, and oil stones are moistened with oil.

When sharpening, the razor is placed on the stone with the entire plane and is led forward - on the grain, and then back. In order not to bend the edge, do not press on the blade during the passage. With one hand, the razor is held by the handle, and with the other, the blade is pressed against the stone. Turn the tool over only through the butt.

Stones for sharpening a dangerous razor at different stages will require different ones. First, a 1000 grit stone is used, on which the working edge is formed. Sharpening goes on until it stretches out in a straight line and stops “dancing” on the mirror. After the formation of the correct geometry, the blade with the heel of the sharp edge is installed on the edge of the stone and pulled to the spout, eliminating burrs.

Then, on stones of 2-3 and 6-10 thousand grit, under the control of a magnifying glass, they smooth out the risks from a rough stone.

Belt

Sharpening a straight razor for the first time ends with editing on the shoe belt. Then they use leather, the belts should be slightly wider than the blade so that the editing goes evenly, and double-sided. One side is made of leather, the other is made of fabric. For 15 wires on a fabric base, there are 50 wires on the skin. For convenience, the belt is pulled.

In the process of sharpening, the razor is held by the shin with one hand and pressed against the belt with the other. The blade is placed flat and the ridge part is pulled forward. Editing is accompanied by a characteristic sound.

The surface of the belt must be clean and smooth, the defective coating will have to be cleaned and sanded. Before use, the belt is rubbed by hand to heat and remove dust particles.

After straightening, the razor needs to be checked for the quality of sharpening. To do this, make 5-10 light strokes with a razor along the block belt with paste, butt forward, and then cut the hair in weight at a distance of 10 mm from the finger. If the hair is not cut, sharpening starts over.

The most dangerous areas to shave with a straight razor are the upper lip, ear area and Adam's apple due to the folds and bulges due to the anatomical structure. Here you need to be especially careful to avoid cuts. It is recommended to carefully stretch the skin with your hands.

Do not be shy and help yourself with your tongue, mimic muscles of the face, additionally stretching the skin. Then dangerous areas will become more accessible, and visibility will increase.

To keep your razor clean, wash and dry thoroughly. Additionally, you can lubricate the metal with oil to protect against corrosion.

How to shave without a razor? There are very few such methods, and they are all barbaric: a sharp knife, a lighter or a waffle towel. Modern men choose safer methods. Someone prefers the machine, because it is easy to use, it is almost impossible for them to get hurt. Someone likes them better, which only touch the bristles and do not cling to the top layer of the skin. But the classic option is still considered a dangerous razor.

What should a beginner choose? Straight razor or alternative tools, which is better? Consider the nuances in today's publication.

The tool first came to hand

What is the reason to change the usual way of shaving with a straight razor?

There may be two:

Sensitive skin;
Closer shave;
Style and memories of past times.

In my case, it was sensitivity. Each touch of the machine caused wild discomfort, and the process itself took a lot of time. Fortunately, two old Soviet straight razors were lying around at home, which lay for more than a dozen years without action. This, one might say, is antiques, undeservedly forgotten appliances. And the first thing I had to do was figure out how to sharpen a razor. After that, figure out how to shave with a dangerous razor. Due to inexperience and the fact that the fear was old, of course there were cuts, but the effect was unsurpassed.

Advantages and disadvantages of using

The pros and cons of the tool are obvious. The positive features include:

Smoother skin;
Possibility to sharpen independently;
Soap solution can be used before the process; gel, foam and even oil;
Saving money;
Multifunctionality.

The name clearly reflects the disadvantage - a high probability of cutting yourself due to inexperience or improper use.

I was able to find a suitable one - half the job is done

Shaver width ratio

For novice connoisseurs of such things, the first question is: how to choose a straight razor. Firstly, you should not chase the price and immediately buy the most expensive one, because its cost is not small, but it may happen that a specific method simply does not work. Secondly, the sharpening of the razor must be of high quality. It is better for a beginner to choose a shaving knife with a round head. A properly sharpened and straightened blade can protect the skin from cuts and wounds. In addition, dangerous shaving will be available in the most remote and inconvenient places. The most unsafe shape is considered square.

Do not forget that the site has articles about growing a beard. I highly recommend mine.

Men's fear cuts heal quickly, but the best option is to sharpen a straight razor and round its edges, making them smooth. This process can be done independently (medium and coarse stones for sharpening a straight razor are suitable for this), or you can use the services of a specialist. When choosing a shaving blade, it is better to pay attention to a wider one, with a narrow one there can be problems, especially for inexperienced people. It is out of ignorance that some men complain: how to shave with a dangerous razor if it leaves wounds on the neck and cheeks?

When making a choice, remember also that a dangerous razor made of low-quality steel wears off quickly. Therefore, ask the seller about the content of the alloy. One of the main indicators is the carbon content, the more it is, the longer the device remains sharp.

How to learn to hold correctly in your hands, then success is guaranteed

How to shave with a straight razor? In my experience, shaving with a straight razor is not going to be fun or good if you don't understand how to hold a straight razor. In fact, the technique of shaving with a straight razor is not so difficult. I'll tell you some secrets on how to shave with a dangerous razor correctly:

First you need to thoroughly lather your face with a brush. The more foam there is, the easier the process will go.
At this time, it is worth putting the razor into a glass of warm water. Then you need to lean the wide part against your face, and raise the straight razor at an angle of 40 degrees.

Correct grip

The sharp blade stays in contact with the skin. If you learn how to hold it correctly and follow the direction of "hair growth", then clean and smooth skin is guaranteed. In addition, you can’t put pressure on the skin at all, the movements should be smooth and light. Then you can avoid unpleasant cuts.

The technique of shaving with a straight razor is not difficult, but requires regular practice. Details below.

Use of fear on the skin

The question of proper shaving with a dangerous razor excites everyone who has ever had it in their hand. As practice has shown, there should be a strong tension of the skin. That is, with the leading hand we hold the device, and with the second we stretch the skin from above in the opposite direction. It is necessary to hold constantly so that dangerous shaving is easy. The process takes place in two stages: first, the blade goes in the direction of bristle growth, and then against. A straight razor will either make the skin perfectly smooth or leave a lot of cuts: it all depends on technique and experience.

When processing "by growth" the longest hair is removed. In this case, only small black dots or short, poorly cut bristles remain. At the second stage, you should re-lather the beard and brush off the remaining hair at a deeper level. After the end of the process, the face should be moistened with cool water, and then use the product for sensitive skin if irritation appears on it. That's all the training on how to properly shave with a straight razor.

Tool Care

To keep your razor looking like new, you need to know how to use your straight razor after you've finished shaving. We must not forget that it is easy to cut yourself with this thing during maintenance, but at the same time, you should never leave it wet. The tool is made of steel, which tends to rust if not cared for. To avoid this, it is enough to dry the razor with a napkin.

We must not forget about security measures and neglect them. Provide a case for a dangerous razor made of dense material, a tool made of high-quality steel is dangerous because it can easily cut your fingers. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to lubricate the guard with engine oil at least once a month. This is the surest option so that rust does not appear. Then even the old fear will look like new.

If you are too lazy to perform all these procedures, a dangerous razor with replaceable blades will do. As soon as the blade wears off, it is simply changed.

Sharpening on a bar, stone, sandpaper

On its own, the razor does not hold the sharpening that was at the beginning, if you do not additionally take care of it. And sharpening a straight razor is a must. If this moment is missed, scratches and scars cannot be avoided. How to sharpen and what is special? This process is called honing, and has several methods. For the first, an ordinary dressing bar is suitable. The same stone is used for knives. A blade razor will be sharp if you moisten the sharpener with water, and holding the blade, carefully move along the stone. The effect will be better if the stone is the same width as the accessory itself or even more. It is imperative that both the body and the tip of the tool lie on the bar, and first you need to lead and sharpen the razor completely on one side, and then on the other. If the stone is smaller than the blade, then it is necessary to take into account the sharpening angle yourself, which a beginner may not be able to do. Sharpening a dangerous razor at home is also carried out using sandpaper. Abrasive, though quickly erased, but it is not expensive. If the straight razor is made of hardened steel, it is better not to use sandpaper.

Sharpening on jeans

What are some ways to sharpen a straight razor? It turns out that at home you can sharpen on jeans. For this you need:

Turn out pants;
Spread on a flat surface;
Put a bar or other flat object under the fabric;
Start grinding on jeans, first in one direction and then the other.

This is a simple way to sharpen a razor with jeans.

What is editing and why is it needed

Straight razor straightening is the process of straightening the edges at the end of an accessory. For this, a straightening belt and linen fabric are used. It will be easier to sharpen a dangerous thing correctly if the straightening strap of a straight razor is wider than the length of the tool. In this case, it is easy to completely fit the guard on the belt. If the size is smaller, then you will have to move the blade each time so that it moves evenly and is equally sharp everywhere.

How to edit a straight razor? To avoid problems, follow the instructions. The process is different than how to sharpen a straight razor. Here we are working not so much with the blade as with the blade itself - i.e. all instrument. The belt for editing the fear is in such a position that it is convenient to direct the tip towards it. The angle of sharpening is not too important. The straight razor sharpening strap should be kept as tight as possible. The main thing is to try to lean the blade more tightly against its surface. If the belt loosens, then nothing will come of it. Upon completion of the process, the instrument will produce a characteristic sound. That's all the nuances of how to edit a dangerous razor.

And most importantly, keep the right angle:

See also:

How to keep the right angle when sharpening

Models made in different countries

We have discussed how to shave with caution, so I will say a few more words about eminent manufacturers. The German apprehension is considered a model of quality all over the world. Razor Solingen from the city of the same name was considered the best. Only good blades were made there. Henkels was considered the most popular. A straight razor from England is a shavette. It differs in many ways from the previous one. The most important thing is that this straight razor has replaceable blades. Shavett and Soligen are still considered exemplary instruments to this day. Japan is a country where the Japanese fears of the Titan company are in the first place. Mahogany from Madagascar is used to make the hilts of these blades. And this is not so much a tribute to fashion or style as a necessity. Mahogany from Madagascar does not swell with water and prevents the formation of bacteria, which subsequently lead to damage to the instrument and skin irritation.

Old Russian-made razors used to be made of damask steel. Most of the time it was handmade. The cover for fear was made of genuine leather. But even in the USSR there was a well-known factory where vacha labor was made, which is now sold at auctions. By the way, if you decide to buy an instrument online, pay attention to those models that include a case for your accessory in the kit. Finally, it is worth saying that a straight razor made of damask steel is best suited for beginners. This is a medical alloy, so cuts will heal faster than other blades.

And remember, if you doubt your abilities, then you can always go to a session.

The high pace of life of a modern man forces us to distribute time literally by the minute. The more we appreciate the moments when we can, left alone with ourselves, relax and devote some time to ourselves.

The classic straight razor shave combines elements of relaxation, massage and work on your image. Anyone can master the technique of the cleanest shave that has returned to fashion, because 80-85 years ago all men shaved that way.

Shaving in English You will need the following tools and accessories:

Razor. For men with thick and stiff bristles, it is recommended to use 2 blades per shave.
. Badger hair is considered the softest and therefore the best material for a brush. Boar bristles take second place, but are more suitable for hard soaps. Synthetic bristles can create static electricity, slightly irritating the skin.
Grindstone, made of abrasive material, used for sharpening a classic shaving blade.
Leather belt used to straighten the cutting edge of the blade and give it maximum sharpness and smoothness.
or shaving cream. It is better to choose a special soap for classic shaving, natural, without dyes. Gels and foams from a spray can are not recommended for use in this case - they do not give foam of sufficient density.
A bowl or mug for soaking shaving brush. It is better to take from unbreakable material, with a capacity of 200-250 ml.
Towel. Soft, clean, natural cotton.
Hydrogen peroxide or powder to stop the bleeding.
Hot water. It is better to use boiled, as it is softer than tap water.

Important! Do not spare money on quality tools and accessories: they will last longer, and the result will be better.

A bit of theory

Careful preparation of the face will make it easier for the blade to glide over the skin and cut the stubble cleanly. The sharpness of the razor, smooth movements, lack of pressure on it - the key to a high-quality retro shave without cuts and.

Try to shave wide strips and carefully stretch the skin, helping yourself with your tongue and facial muscles.

To set the hand, you can first train on flat areas of the face. Treat the cheeks with a blade, and the rest of the face with a safety razor until confidence and accuracy appear in the movements.

Did you know? The great rulers Peter I and Alexander the Great required their subjects to shave their faces. Alexander believed that it was easy to grab a soldier in battle by the beard, and did not start the battle without shaving, and Peter I, in addition to a personal example, introduced a high beard tax in 1722.

Features of hair growth

On different parts of the face and neck, hair grows with different density and in different directions. It is important to consider these two points in the preparation and in the process of shaving.

The thicker and stiffer the beard, the more carefully you need to steam and lather your face. Traditional shaving cuts the hairs more cleanly, so stubble doesn't appear as quickly.

Did you know? If a man never shaves in his life, the length of his beard can reach 8 meters.

How to hold a razor

Shaving technology provides 3 ways to hold a bladed razor to work in different areas.

The methods differ:

blade direction- down or up;
turning angle razors relative to the wrist;
little finger position on the tail of the instrument.

The shaving guard is held by the neck with the thumb, index and middle fingers, fixing the heel of the razor with the little finger.

Anyway hold the tool firmly, but without strong tension in the fingers.
The main movements are performed by the middle and inside of the blade, as they are better controlled by the fingers than the head.

Pulling on the skin

For a clean hair cut skin should be tight. To do this, with the index or middle finger of the free hand, the skin is pulled in the direction opposite to the movement of the razor, stepping back 2-3 cm. The fingers are placed on a skin area free of soap suds. Excess foam is removed with the back of the razor.

Shaving technique

Shaving with a straight razor involves two passes of each area of the face:

by hair growth;
against hair growth.

With hard and thick bristles, another movement is performed during repeated shaving: first in the transverse direction, then against growth.

Movements should be light and rhythmic, performed due to the movements of the hand, and not the whole arm.

Wipe both sides of the blade with alcohol before and after each subsequent pass.

The angle of the razor relative to the skin surface is 20-30°.

Did you know? Some women are impressed by a masculine face with some roughness on the cheeks. To create such a brutal effect, you can skip the step of shaving across and against hair growth.

How to properly shave "fear"

Shaving with a straight razor requires focus, a steady hand, and Olympian calm. To acquire good skills, you need constant practice. Prepare everything you need in advance, try not to be distracted by anything.

Preparation

It is better to shave after a shower or bath - warm, moist air will help open pores.

small towel soaked in hot water, impose on the lower part of the face and neck, leave to cool. With stiff bristles, this hot compress is carried out twice.

In a mug of hot water soaked bristle shaving brush then change the water.

The foam is whipped either in a circle or on a soapy face, moving from the center to the ears. The foam should be thick, dense, keep its shape and not spread. After 3-5 minutes, you can start shaving. If the foam dries out during this time, it is applied again.

Process

Shaving start with hair growth, from the edging line of the temple from the side of the working hand. The skin is stretched a little higher with the second hand.

The razor is placed flat on the skin, blade down, its back rises to the desired angle. The tool is moved from top to bottom from the temple, along the outer part of the lower jaw to the middle of the cheek, not forgetting to stretch the skin.

Having passed along the hair growth of the cheeks to the corner of the mouth, having shaved off the mustaches, they switch to convex part of the chin. It is shaved from the bottom to the hollow that separates the lower lip.

Next shave the upper lip by moving the razor very carefully from top to bottom. Then the skin is treated along and under the lower jaw, in the direction from the middle of the chin to the ear, trying to leave as little untreated surface on the neck as possible.

The neck is shaved with movements from the bottom up, from the side to the Adam's apple. In the same sequence, a passage is made along the hair growth on the second half of the face. Make sure all hairs are cut off on the first pass.

Important! Particular care must be taken when working with a razor near the nose, earlobe, Adam's apple and where the skin forms folds.

Second pass against hair growth the face is again carefully covered with soapy foam. If necessary, change the blade.

The razor slides from bottom to top, against hair growth. They start moving from the neck under the ear, move to the outer part of the lower jaw and to the area under the temples.

Then they shave the middle part of the cheek, lower jaw, chin, upper and lower lip, changing the direction of the razor to horizontal.

The neck is shaved with vertical movements, from the Adam's apple to the side surfaces, against hair growth.

To learn how to shave with a straight razor, you can watch the video:

Skin care after the procedure

Finished shaving face wash with cold water. This will refresh the skin and close the pores.

After blotting your face with a dry, clean towel, apply a lotion or one that matches your skin type.

Rules for the use and storage of a straight razor

Sounds paradoxical, but a sharp razor is safer to shave a blunt one. A well-sharpened blade glides without pressure and injures the skin less. The blade must be regularly sharpened, straightened, lubricated with oil.

Finished shaving, tools are washed from foam and hair residue.

Shaving brush is dried, shaking off and hanging pile down.

Drops of water from the razor gently erase paper napkin.

Oil is applied to a dry blade.

Keep your razor in a case, outside the bathroom and places with high humidity.

Precautionary measures

Don't try to catch a falling razor.
You can only carry and move with a closed razor.
When trembling in the hands, it is better to use a safety razor.
Do not use a blade with a defective cutting edge.

Important! Cover the blade if something distracts you from shaving: during conversations, forgetting and waving your hand can cause serious cuts.

A properly shaved male face stays smooth, attractive and fresh longer. A royal shave is, without a doubt, something that a modern man can afford.

The straight razor was at one time undeservedly forgotten by the majority of the male population, since Gillette's T-shaped machines, and then electric shavers, appeared in everyday life. Working with them is not so traumatic for beginners, but not so high quality. A straight razor helps you shave your face cleanly without irritation.

What is a straight razor

The second name of the tool is a bladed razor, in everyday life “fear”. The working part is a wide blade made of carbon or stainless steel. The blade has a head of various shapes (round, rectangular or "French"), a back (the blunt side of the blade), and a recess. The greater the depth and width of the blade, the better it adapts to the contours of the face. The tail of the working part is movably connected to a long handle, in which the blade is hidden after work is completed.

The most popular "fears" are produced in the German city of Solingen - once the second world shaving center (the first is Sheffield). Manufacturers Dovo, Thiers-Issard and Bismarck are especially valued by true lovers of "fear", but it is difficult to find genuine samples in stores, it is better to order them on the Internet on specialized sites. The Japanese "fears" Titan proved to be quite good. How much does a straight razor cost? On average, the price starts from 6,000 rubles (we are talking about a branded sample), but such an investment is durable, because the tool will last more than one year.

Shaving with straight razor

The procedure requires a certain level of skill. For beginners, the first interaction with a straight razor is rarely successful, and the results are worse than after using a T-shaped or power tool. The hand becomes firm and professional after about a hundred uses. The main components of safe and high-quality shaving are calmness, confidence in your actions, measured movements and compliance with all the rules.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before learning how to shave with a straight razor, every man wants to make sure that he has chosen a worthy alternative. The blade tool has the following advantages:

Low cost for a good item. If a blade is well cared for, it can last a lifetime.
The tool provides smooth-shaven skin, does not irritate the face.
The blade is almost always sharp, so it does not pull out hairs and does not stretch the skin.
Fear is easy to handle.
Using a bladed tool, it is easy to model a beard and mustache.

There is a "fear" and cons:

An inexperienced person can easily get hurt while shaving.
It takes a long time to learn how to use a straight razor.
The tool must be protected from moisture, well lubricated. In addition to it, you need to purchase a leather belt and abrasive paste.
The blade needs to "rest" for at least 2 days after use. If you have a need to shave more often, you should consider purchasing another tool or a whole set.

Preparation

How to shave with a straight razor without risking your own health? You need to be well prepared for the procedure. You should have at your disposal:

blade razor;
grindstone;
leather belt needed for editing;
shaving brush (preferably from badger hair);
shaving foam or gel;
hot water tank;
mirror;
powder to stop blood from cuts.

When all the inventory is collected in one place, you can start shaving. Preparation Guide:

The beard needs to be warmed up - take a shower or apply a hot towel tightly to the face (do this twice).
Fill a container with very hot water and dip the brush into it.
Take out the shaving brush, squeeze out the remaining water from it.
Apply to a wet face or squeeze foam into a bowl, beat it with a brush.
Cover your face with a thick layer of foam. She should lie down in dense peaks.
If the hair is too coarse, wait 5 minutes and then lather again.

Technique

How to shave a man with a straight razor? It is necessary to carry out short movements, tilting the blade at an angle of 15-20 ° to the plane of the skin. The cutting edge shaves, not the hand, i.e. you create a kind of acceleration, and the blade shaves hair by inertia. In this case, you need to ensure the correct angle of inclination of the blade and set the trajectory. Hold the knife with three fingers in front of the handle.

In order for the straight razor to move easily, move it not with the entire plane, but at an angle of 30-40 ° (cutting angle) towards the cut area of the hair. The razor head will constantly wedged into the treated area. At the same time, stretch the skin slightly. You should not feel like a razor shaves. All clinging to the bristles indicate that the blade needs to be sharpened or handed over for repair.

How to shave your beard and mustache

When all the preparatory procedures have been completed, you can get down to business. How to shave for a man:

Start cleaning your face from the side of your dominant hand. Stretch the skin and in short strokes move the straight razor from the temple to the side of the chin.
Move the blade along the hair growth.
One pass with a sharp blade is enough to clean the skin of hair well.
With the same movements, slowly shave your cheeks, chin, and neck.
It is easy to model the contours of the beard with "War" because you will know exactly where to stop. With its help you will create your own style.
To ensure that certain areas of the face are perfectly clean, run the blade across the skin across and against hair growth.
How to shave your mustache with a straight razor? It is worth moving only in the direction of hair growth, otherwise you risk injuring your nose.

How to shave stubble

In this case, it is necessary to use the blade in the same way as when shaving a beard and mustache. It doesn't matter if it's a modern razor, Soviet or foreign antiques: the main thing is that it be sharp. Your head should be calm, and you are focused on business. Action algorithm:

Get ready. Consider the recommendations for hard bristles (hot towel, shower, plenty of foam and gel).
Shave your face using all of the above techniques. If your hair is very thick, use two straight razors alternately.
Remove the remaining foam with cold water, this will help close the pores.
Dry the razor, straighten it and oil the blade.

Straight razor sharpening

The tool must be sharpened periodically, since a dull blade is often more traumatic than a sharp one. A straight razor with replaceable blades does not need this procedure. The stationary blade is sharpened like this:

Soak a whetstone at 1000-6000 grit with water. The surface of the stone must be absolutely flat.

It is widely believed that shaving with the help of the so-called fear is already a thing of the past, because today we can get a completely safe and also quite sharp machine. However, many men may not agree with this opinion.

The royal shave, which is the name given to the procedure for removing stubble with a razor knife, is still very popular due to its effectiveness.

Peculiarities

The peculiarity of shaving with the use of the so-called fear, that is, a reusable razor blade I, which resembles a wide folding knife, consists in careful preliminary preparation and observance of technique. As a result, flawlessly smooth and clean skin without any consequences.

Also an important detail is that shaving with a dangerous blade involves an exceptionally wet technique. It involves the initial hygienic preparation of the face before the main procedure. Ideally, it is performed immediately after taking a shower.

The face should be well steamed with hot water, which makes the hair much softer, and the open pores do not hold back the follicles so much, making the shaving process more comfortable and efficient.

Simple steaming and moisturizing can actually be much more effective than using all kinds of gels. The main problem is that most manufacturers of shaving gels and foams promise a quality result that they cannot guarantee. In the end, the result of a shave largely depends on the preparation and quality of the blades. That is why dry technique, as a rule, is accompanied by excessive dryness of the skin, the appearance of various irritations, inflammations and rashes, as well as small cuts.

Another option for wet preparation- soak a towel in hot water, and then wrap your face with it for 5-10 minutes. After that, you can start shaving with a three-blade razor, but it will be most effective to use a reusable straight razor.

Known to many "fear" with proper handling is a very impressive men's accessory. Due to the length and shape of the blade, 1-2 passes of the razor over the skin area are enough to completely remove hairs from it. In addition, any further irritation of the epidermis is excluded, and no additional effort is required to remove hair.

For wet shaving, only a long beard is difficult with a dangerous blade. The fact is that long hair can be pulled out with a blade, because of which the procedure can be very painful. This problem is solved by pre-cutting the beard.

How to choose a machine?

Of course, the quality of the apprehension itself plays an important role, first of all. Today they can be purchased only in specialized stores and retail outlets, which in itself can act as a guarantee of quality. However, there is a fairly large selection of blades on the market, in which it is easy to get lost.

German manufacturers are invariably very popular. Companies such as Boker, Dovo and Hubert, as well as Robert Klaas are especially well known. You should immediately prepare for serious expenses, because a good razor knife costs much more than a conventional machine with replaceable blades.

When buying, you should always carefully check the straight razor.

In order not to miscalculate with quality, pay attention to the following details:

The material from which the blade itself is made. The standard is considered to be high-quality stainless steel or carbon steel. In this case, you will have to choose between shaving comfort and blade life. The fact is that carbon steel provides the most effective hair removal without damaging the epidermis, but it will deteriorate and become dull much faster than stainless steel;
Handle material. Of course, this factor does not play any role in terms of the effectiveness of the procedures. However, it is much more comfortable to shave your face when the machine fits comfortably in your hand. Experienced men talk about the fear handle as a frame. Today in stores you can find options for handles made of plastic, steel, wood, or even ivory;
Be sure to pay attention to form! The best men's shaving blades are slightly concave, making them easier to adjust to facial irregularities. If the razor has an absolutely even and straight blade, then it is better to refuse it immediately!
Far from the last role plays stigma. On a good and high-quality product, the manufacturer's emblem will be engraved directly on the blade itself. If the brand is applied with paint or even placed on the handle, then this is a sign of low quality;
Explore blade thickness. The butt, as well as the sharpened part, should not only be thin, but the same with each other;
You should also pay attention to construction. The classic reliable apprehension is made of one or two components. If the blade is folded inside the handle, then it rotates and is held at the base by two rivets. The presence of any springs and mechanical parts is considered a bad sign;
sharpening. When choosing a blade, this parameter is the most important for shaving performance. The degree of sharpening ensures not only easy removal of hairs from the face, but also long-term operation of the blade and the possibility of re-sharpening it over time.

What else is needed?

Unlike a standard shave, the Wet Care Technique will require you to purchase some additional accessories. One of the most important, besides the straight razor itself, is shaving brush.

The shaving brush is a thick brush with a short handle. It is necessary not only for applying foam to the face, but also for whipping it. That is why it is important to pay attention to the quality and material from which the brush itself is made.

To date, there is a fairly large selection of all kinds of shaving brushes. The brush can be made from synthetics, which is the simplest and most affordable option, as well as from horsehair, boar bristles, badger or squirrel hair.

You should choose based on your own preferences, paying attention to the stiffness and strength of the brush.

Using a high-quality shaving brush allows you to beat a very thick and dense powder. Well. Unlike various ready-made shaving foams that are sold in tubes or cans, this product moisturizes the skin much better. In addition, the foam retains heat, which is very important for wet shaving techniques. During the application of the foam, the process of exfoliating dead dermal cells takes place, which is very beneficial for the skin, and the risk of irritation and cuts is also significantly reduced.

Any emollient cream can be used as a base, but many men prefer to lather with the simplest homemade face and hand soap. In fact, for a reliable wet shave, it is enough regular soap base without any additional components.

In addition to a shaving brush, soap or cream, and a bowl for frothing, you will need a firm waffle towel. It should be soaked in hot water, squeezed out, and then wrapped around the face for 5-10 minutes immediately before the procedure. This way of preparing the skin of the face, combined with a dense foam obtained with a shaving brush, guarantees the most effective and comfortable shave.

Some specialized stores offer to purchase a ready-made kit right away, which may include not only a high-quality shaving brush and the blade itself, but also shaving soap, a sharpening belt and other useful accessories.

How to use?

Mastering the royal shave, which is how the procedure is often called with the use of caution, is not so difficult. Of course, each of the experienced barbers has his own favorite technique, but for home shaving it will be enough to master the general principles that will help you achieve an effective result and at the same time avoid mistakes. There are only five basic steps:

After all the preparations, start on one side of the face., for example, from the right. For this, it is best to stretch the skin of the cheek with the left hand so that the blade slides much easier. Cut hair in the direction of hair growth, keeping a 30-degree angle and without any additional pressure or effort. Too much or too little angle of the blade can cause cuts in the skin, and if you try to shave against the growth of hair, you may face the problem of their ingrown in the future. Also, do not forget to wash off the remaining foam from the blade so that it does not dry out.
The left side of the face will be more difficult to handle the blade m, because it requires a change of working hand. If you know you don't have enough dexterity, then it's best not to change hands, but simply pull the skin near the ear and shave the hair from top to bottom, while holding the guard so that the location of its upper part is visible for better control. At the same time, as the blade itself descends, the fingers of the free hand also fall lower and stretch the skin for better glide. At the end of shaving the cheeks, it is necessary to continue the movement to remove hair from the neck and beard area.
When shaving the area above the upper lip it must be pulled down as much as possible.
Shaving the chin area it is enough to pull the lower lip up. In this case, the movements should be made from top to bottom in hair growth.
The area under the chin is the most difficult and requires a delicate approach, since the skin here is very thin. It is best to tilt your head back a little and tighten the muscles of the face, while pulling the skin down with your left hand and straightening it. For greater efficiency of shaving in this area, it is necessary to draw the blade first along the hairline, and then against it. Beginners are advised to simply repeat the movement of the blade along the hairline several times.