How to build a stand-up shirt collar. Mk "shirt collar in detail". The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed like this:

Stand collars are one of the simplest collars.
However, despite their simplicity of construction, stand-up collars are very diverse. This diversity is expressed in the width (height) of the stand, in the configuration of the top line, in the design of the ends, as well as in the degree of fit to the neck.

This group of collars can be divided into two subgroups:
1 - cut-off stand-up collars;
2 - one-piece stand-up collars with shelves and backs.

In this article we will look at several designs of this type of collar related to cut-off stands, which differ in varying degrees of fit to the neck.

In the first In this option, we will build a stand-up collar that is not adjacent to the neck.

The drawing of such a collar is made in the form of a rectangular strip.

We begin the construction by bringing the neckline into accordance with the chosen style. This means that after we have decided on the model of a dress, blouse, raincoat, etc., it is necessary to deepen, widen or change the shape of the neckline, if this is provided for by the style of the selected model.
We draw a new neckline and measure its length using the front and back patterns. This can be conveniently done using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge.

The ideal option is when you specify the neck line during fitting, correct it if necessary, and then measure.
In our example, we widen and deepen the neck by about 0.75-1cm.

And let's start building the collar.

Draw a right angle. We denote the top by point O. From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to ½ the length of the neck, measured from the patterns of the front and back. In our example, this value is 20 cm, and you set aside your value and place point A.
The desired stand height is set vertically from points O and A (for dresses and blouses on average 3 - 5 cm; for raincoats and jackets it can reach 10 -12 cm or more). We will take 4cm as an example and place points O1 and A1 respectively.

Connect points O1 and A1 with a horizontal line. That, in fact, is the whole construction.

There are some nuances left.

If, according to the model, the ends of the stand are shaped at right angles, then the upper collar and collar can be cut out in one piece in the form of a single strip. In this case, the top edge of the post will have a fold rather than a seam.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A and A1 to the right we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A2 and A3 and connect them with straight lines. The final contour of the stand-up collar will be indicated by the letters O, A2, A3, O1.

When making patterns for the upper collar, do not forget to add 0.2-0.3 cm in the transverse seams and along the top seam to create a piping, but if the collar is one-piece with a collar - only in the transverse seams. See fig.

In the second option, consider a stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

We begin construction in the same sequence as in the first option. During the fitting, we clarify the shape of the neckline, adjust if necessary and measure the length of the neckline.

From point O upward we set aside the height of the stand (for dresses and blouses it is taken on average 3 - 5 cm). We will take 4cm as an example and place point O1.

From point O to the right we set aside 1/3 of the distance OA and place point C.
From point A, draw a vertical line up and put 1.5-4 cm on it, put point A1.
The greater the distance AA1 (the greater the bend of the stand), the more the upper edge of the stand will be adjacent to the neck.
From point A1 up, set aside a distance equal to segment OO1 or another provided by your model, and place point A2.

We connect points C and A1 with a smooth curve. The final stitching line of the stand passes through points O, C, A1.
We shape the upper edge of the stand by connecting points O1 and A2 with a smooth curve parallel to the stitching line OCA1.

From point A1 at right angles to line CA1, draw a straight line until it intersects with line O1A2 and place point A3.
The ends (corners) of the stand are designed in accordance with the style of the product. In our example they are rounded.

If there is a fastener in the middle of the shelf, or the model requires that the ends of the stand overlap each other and fasten, then in this case we increase the length of the collar by the width of the side (or by the width of the fastener). This is done as follows. From points A3 and A1 to the right, parallel to the center line of the rack, we set aside the width of the side 1.5-2 cm, put points A4 and A5 and connect them with straight lines. The final outline of the stand-up collar is formed with the letters O, C, A4, A5, O1.

I remind you. The upper collar pattern along the outer contour should be 1-3mm larger than the collar pattern. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This is done so that the stitching seam does not peek out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. to form a edging along the top and transverse seams of the rack.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar from the main drawing clearly along the line, this will be the collar.

And then, on a separate sheet of paper, enlarge this pattern by adding the required amount along the outer contour - this will be the upper collar.

The variety of collars of this type is achieved both through the design and through the use of various types of finishing. We are preparing a separate section about this, as well as about processing technology.

Follow the site news and you will always be up to date.

Good luck! Valentina Nivina.

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I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt. It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, this is the advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not ruin the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar.

And it’s not even so important whether a woman’s shirt or a men’s shirt is the same – the construction is the same.

According to different methods, of course, it differs, but this construction (EMCO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Construction of the collar pattern:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 = AA2 = 3 - 4 cm.

Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.

The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.

Constructing a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.

4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.

5. Connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.

7. Stand height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.

9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

It is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.

So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see an apache collar?

Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.

2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. We continue the L-B line up and put it from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.

4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.

5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.

7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.

9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down stand:

Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What makes it special?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand-up and looks good both when buttoned and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.

4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.

We trace the collar along the control points.

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction using the EMKO method.

It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10 cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.

The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars.

. Collar- standing-turn-down with cutting stand.

(1). In the upper left corner we put t.A, to the right of it we set aside half the measurement of the neck line on the shirt, taking into account the line of the placket (we take the measurement from the drawing of the pattern of a men's shirt), put t.V. From t.V put down 11 cm(not a constant value), set t.S. From t.A lay down a segment equal to Sun, put t.D. We close the lines and get a rectangle.

(2). From t.D up we set aside 3 cm - the width of the cutting stand, put t.D1. From t.C up we put 1.5 cm, put t.C1. We connect points D and C1 with a smooth line, continuing the line by 0.5 cm, place point C2.

(3). From point C2 we draw a perpendicular equal to 3 cm from line DC2, place point D2. We connect points D1 and D2 with a smooth parallel line.

(4). From point D2, along the line of the upper cut of the cutting stand, set aside 2 cm to the left, place point B1. From point B we put 1-2 cm to the left, put point B2. Connect points B1 and B2.

(5). From t.A we put 2 cm down, put t.A2, connect it to t.B2 with a straight line, where t.E is the middle.

(6). From i.e. down we put a perpendicular equal to 1 cm, put i.e.1. We draw a smooth line through points A2, E1, B2.

(7). From t.D1 we put 1 cm up, put t.A3. We connect it with a smooth line to point B1.

(8). The collar pattern with a cut-off stand for a men's shirt is ready!

When cutting, do not forget that we are drawing half of a whole collar with a fold line!

You can sew this elegant men's shirt yourself. It has a fairly tight silhouette and is perfect for slender men. We will tell you how quickly and easily you can create a basic pattern for such a shirt. Measurements for creating a pattern are taken from a male figure in the same way as from a female figure. See section

To create a pattern for a men's fitted shirt, you need to take the following measurements:

Height – 180 cm
Chest circumference (OG) – 102 cm
Waist circumference (FR) – 94 cm
Sleeve length (SL) – 65 cm
Neck circumference (NS) – 42 cm
Back length to waist – 47 cm
Wrist circumference – 19 cm
Product length – 65 cm

Auxiliary measurements for creating a pattern must be calculated using the formulas:

Back width (ShSp)=2/10 OG-1 cm (for OG up to 112cm)

1/10OG + 10.5 cm (for OG more than 112 cm)

Armhole width (ShPr)=1/10 OG +2 cm

Chest width (WG)=2/10 OG -1cm (for OG up to 112 cm)

1/2 exhaust gas – ShSp – ShPr (for exhaust gas larger than 112 cm)

Armhole depth (Gpr)= (1/10 OG+12)+3 (for all sizes)

Back neck length (DGsp)= 1/6 Neck circumference

The increase in the freedom of fit of a men's fitted shirt should be 5-5.5 cm. Important! The width of the mesh is 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm = 51+5.5=56.5 cm.

Increases in looseness of fit for a men's fitted shirt

Rice. 1. Table of increases in freedom of fit

Calculation of initial values for creating a pattern:

Back width = 102/10 x 2 – 1 = 19.4 cm

Armhole width = 102/10 + 2 = 12.2 cm

Chest width = 102/10 x 2 – 1 = 19.4 cm

After performing the calculations, you need to check their correctness. To do this, add the resulting values. The amount should be equal to the half-circumference of the chest according to the measurement.

Examination: 19.4 + 12.2 + 19.4 = 51 cm (half chest circumference according to measurement is 51 cm, therefore the calculations were performed correctly).

Additionally, the armhole depth is calculated with an increase (Gpr) = 102/10 +12 +3 = 25.2 cm.

Back neck length (DGsp) = 42/6 = 7 cm.

Pattern for a men's fitted shirt - construction

Rice. 2. Pattern for a men's fitted shirt

Draw a grid with a width equal to 1/2 OG + 5.5 cm for the freedom of fit of the shirt and a length equal to the desired length of the shirt according to the measurement: AB = 102/2 + 5.5 = 51 + 5.5 = 56.5 cm. AD = 65 cm (shirt length according to measurements).

From point A downwards, set aside Armhole depth AG = 102/10 +12 +3 = 25.2 cm, Length of the back of the shirt to the waist according to AT = 47 cm. Draw lines GG1, TT1, G2P, G3P2.

From point G1 from right to left, set aside the width of the back of a men's shirt with an increase G1G2 = 102/10x2 – 1 + 1.3 = 20.7 cm, the width of the armhole of a men's shirt with an increase G2G3 = 102/10 + 2 + 3.5 = 15.7 cm.

Shirt side line G4 = G2G3/2. Draw line G4N1.

From point B to the left, set aside the calculated value of the back neck length + 1cm: BB1 = 7 + 1 = 8cm.

From point B, set aside 2 cm upward: B1B2 = 2 cm. Draw the sprout of the back of a man’s shirt according to the pattern.

Shoulder tilt. From point P, set aside 2-3 cm down: PP1 = 2 cm (for straight shoulders), PP1 = 3 cm (for sloping shoulders). Draw the shoulder line along the ruler, set aside a shoulder length equal to the length of the shoulder according to the measurement + 0.5 cm.

Divide the armhole depth lines PG2 and P2G3 into 5 equal parts. From the lower point of division PG2, draw a horizontal line 1.5 cm long, from the middle point of division draw a horizontal line 0.7 cm long. Using the pattern, draw a line for the armhole of the back of a man’s shirt.

From point A, move down the length of the back neck + 2 cm for all sizes AA1 = 7 + 2 = 9 cm and to the right – the length of the back neck (DGsp = 7 cm). Connect the resulting points with a line, divide the line in half and set aside 1.7 cm at a right angle. Draw the neckline of the front of the men's shirt according to the pattern.

From point P2, set aside 4 cm downwards - point P3. Draw a line for the front shoulder of the shirt, equal to the length of the back shoulder.

Using the pattern, draw out the armhole of the front of a man's shirt, which passes through the middle point of division P2G3 to point G4.

On the side at the level of the waist line, set aside 2 cm to the left and 1.5 cm to the right for darts. Connect the resulting points with points G4 and H1 with smooth curved lines.

Divide the back of the shirt in half at the waist and set aside 1.5 cm for the dart from the resulting point to the left and right. The length of the dart up is 17-18 cm.

IMPORTANT! Measure the width of the mesh along the bottom of the shirt. HH2 should be 1/2 OB +2 cm. If the obtained value is less, it is necessary to expand the shirt on the sides.

In the middle of the front it is necessary to give an increase to the bar, making an increase to the middle of the front - 4.5 cm. The finished width of the bar is 3 cm. The bar can be one-piece or stitched. In the second case, the bar must be cut and cut separately.

Constructing a sleeve pattern for a shirt

Rice. 3. Sleeve pattern for a men's fitted shirt

Measure the length of the armhole on the drawing. Based on the measured value of the armhole, calculate the Height of the edging OO1 = 1/3 of the length of the armhole according to the drawing minus 5 cm, and the Length of the auxiliary lines of the edging OP = OP1 = 1/2 of the Length of the armhole according to the drawing.

From point O (the highest point of the shirt sleeve piping) downwards, set the calculated piping height - point O1. Draw a horizontal line through point O1 - PP1.

From point O to the left and right, set aside the calculated value of the Length of the auxiliary line of the shirt sleeve OP and OP1.

From point O downwards, set aside the length of the sleeve according to the measurement minus 1cm.

The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the length of the sleeve cuff + 4 cm for two folds. Divide the resulting value in half and put it to the left and right of point H.

IMPORTANT! The length of the cuff is calculated as follows: Wrist circumference according to measurement + 2cm for loose fit + 3cm for fastener.

Divide the sleeve cut - НН1 in half. The cutting line is 10-12cm long.

Draw the cuff line of the sleeve as shown in the pattern drawing.

Pattern of cuff to sleeve

Rice. 4. Shirt cuff pattern

Constructing a collar pattern for a shirt

Rice. 5. Shirt collar pattern

Measure the length of the front neck of the finished shirt with the placket and the back of the shirt. Build a stand-up collar and a fly-away collar for a men's shirt as shown in pattern drawing 4.

Draw a rectangle ABCD. AB = 1/2 of the length of the neck according to the drawing, together with an increase for the finished bar (1.5 cm). AD=BC= 11 cm for all sizes.

Stand collar. From points D and C up, set aside 3 cm, draw a horizontal line - you get a rectangle. From the upper right point of the resulting rectangle, set aside 1 cm. From point C up, set aside 1.5 cm and 0.5 cm to the right. Connect points 1 and 0.5 with a straight line. Divide the segment DC in half and smoothly connect points D and 0.5.

Departure collar. From point 3 up, set aside 1 cm, from point A down - 2 cm. From point B to the left, set aside 1-2 cm, from point 1 (stand-up collar) to the left, set aside 2 cm. Connect the resulting points as shown in the drawing.

The stand-up collar is cut out separately, the collar of a men's shirt is cut out separately.

I continue the conversation on the topic of shirts. Let's create patterns for shirt-type turn-down collars. There are many such collars, but today we will look at some of them. Namely, collars with a cutting stand.

First option

Construction of a cut-off collar begins in the same way as construction of a collar, with a snug fit to the neck.

Draw a right angle with the vertex at point O. Up vertically we put a segment equal to the height of the stand and set point B. OB = 2.5 - 4 cm.

To the right, horizontally we lay off a segment OA equal to the length of the neck of the product. The length of the neck of the product is equal to the sum of the length of the front neck (A4A5) and the length of the back neck (A0A2). I show these segments with arrows in the figure ↓

Segment OO1 = OA / 3.

Then, from point O1, through point A1, we will draw an arc upward. On this arc we measure the segment A1A2 = OB – 1 cm. We connect points O1 and A2 with a straight line, on which we restore the perpendicular from point A2 upward. A2A3 = stand height = 3 – 4 cm.

Segment A2A4 = A1A. The perpendicular A4A5 is also equal to the height of the stand.

We divide the segment A2O1 in half, put point 1. From point 1 we lower a perpendicular equal to 0.5 - 1 cm and get point 2.

The line for stitching the stand into the neck passes through points O, O1, 2, A4, A2. The rounded edge of the post passes through points A2 and A5. The line connecting the stand with the collar passes through points B and A5 in a smooth line running parallel to the stitching line.

The stand is built, let's start building the collar flap.

To do this, draw a perpendicular from point A5 to the continuation of line OB and get point O2. From the resulting point upward, we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar, equal to 6 - 7 cm, and place point B1.

О2В1 = 6 – 7 cm.

Let's connect points B1 and A5 with a straight line. From the center of the resulting segment, we restore the perpendicular upwards 1 - 2 cm. Segment 3-4 = 1 - 2 cm. Let's draw a smooth line on the turn-down part of the collar through points B1, 4, A5.

To design the line of departure of the collar, we restore the perpendicular from point A5 to line A5B1. Segment A5A6 = B1B2 + 1.5 cm. Connect points B2 and A6 with a smooth curve, extending it from point A6 by 1.5 - 3.5 cm.

A6A7 = 1.5 – 3.5 cm (depending on the desired collar shape).

We connect point A7 to point A5, thus obtaining the line of the end of the collar. Corner A6, A7, A5 can be rounded if this is provided for by the style.

Second option

The difference between the second option is that the stand does not have a fastener with a button or button, and the ends of the stand either converge at one point, coinciding with the middle point of the side of the product, or are spaced apart by the width of the side or strip.

We begin constructing the collar pattern, as usual, by constructing a right angle at point O.

From point O upward we lay off a segment OB equal to the height of the stand (2 - 4 cm).

From point O to the right we lay off a segment OA equal to the length of the neck of the product minus 1 cm. That is, the sum of the length of the neck of the shelf (A4A5) and the length of the back neck (A0A2) minus 1 cm. And from point A up vertically we lay off the segment AA1 = OB + 1 cm.

Segment OO1 = OA / 3. Connect points O1 and A1 with a straight line. From the middle of the segment O1A1, point 1, lower the perpendicular = 1 cm down and place point 2.

We will form the line for stitching the stand into the neck with a smooth curve, connecting points O, O1, 2, A1.

We draw the line connecting the stand with the collar in a smooth curve through points B and A1, making a deflection in the middle of 0.3 cm. Segment 3-4 = 0.3 cm.

To construct the departure of the collar, connect point A1 with straight line OB at point O2 with a straight horizontal line.

From point O2 up vertically we plot the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. In this case, it is equal to 7 - 12 cm. O2B1 = 7 - 12 cm.

We connect Points B1 and A1 with a straight line. And we put 2 cm from point A1 onto this straight line, we get point A2.

From the middle of segment B1A2, point C, we restore the perpendicular upward. On this perpendicular we mark the segment CC1 = 2 cm, and the segment C1C2 = B1B2 + 1 cm.

We connect points B1, C1, A2 with a smooth curve, which is the connection line between the collar and the stand.

We also connect point B2 to point C2 with a smooth curve, continuing it to point A3. The location of point A3 is arbitrary, in accordance with the style of the collar.

Connect point A2 to point A3. Corner C2A3A2 can be rounded if this matches the style of your product.

I hope my instructions were clear, but if you still have questions, I will be happy to answer them! Write comments and share with like-minded crafters.