Dress with a yoke: model options, description, combination options and necessary additions. Attractive dresses with a yoke will not leave you indifferent Dress pattern on a classic yoke

This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will consider and learn how to build patterns using several methods that are used when sewing clothes for obese women. Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions building drawings of the base of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first option, we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (bust circumference 108cm), so to speak, for women of medium splendor. In the second option, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (bust circumference 120cm), for women with more magnificent forms. In both cases, we build patterns for the base of the dress. semiadjacent silhouette, in accordance with this, we take into account the allowance for a free fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.
You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew a dress.
In any case, we recommend that after building a drawing and making a pattern, check it on something simple. For example, sew a dressing gown from cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or another thing that has served its age for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.
We use exactly step by step drawing instructions to demonstrate and convince you that in fact everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at the finished drawing of the base pattern and have not encountered anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly difficult and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is most often just something that we have not yet tried to do. Good luck!

SEMI-FITTING DRESS FOR WOMEN OF MIDDLE COMPLETENESS (for example, size 54)

To build a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:
Recommendation: Take the correct measurements. The whole result of your efforts will depend on this.
In order to take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is well defined when the head is tilted, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm with the shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a point on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which is easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after the end of this procedure.
It’s good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing a thin dress, or better, only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. That is what I draw your attention to. Because, often a woman, when taking measurements or trying on, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good desire, but when taking measurements, it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress on fitting, in ordinary life, will not be as comfortable as we would like, and as it should be.
Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a string around his waist, mark the starting points and proceed to measurements.

There are some differences between the proposed methods. in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the name of the measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

*Name of measurements and symbols*	cm	*Taking measurements*
Product length (Di)		Measure from the cervical point (seventh cervical vertebra), bringing the centimeter to the waist and to the required length.
Armhole depth (Gpr)		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to a horizontal line drawn with a centimeter through the armpits.
Back length to waist (Dst)		Measured from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line, taking into account the prominence of the shoulder blades. To do this, a thin ruler can be attached to the protruding points of the shoulder blades, the centimeter tape should pass over the ruler.
Back width (W)		Measure horizontally along the shoulder blades, between the upper corners of the armpits.
Half neck (Ssh)		The measuring tape should run along the base of the neck, behind the seventh cervical vertebrae, in front of the jugular cavity (depression).
Semi-girth of the chest 1st (СгI)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally, behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front above the base of the chest.
Half bust 2nd (CrII)		The centimeter tape runs horizontally behind the protruding points of the shoulder blades, in front along the protruding points of the chest.
Groove opening size (Brv)		Measured vertically. It is removed simultaneously with the measurements of the half-girths of the chest. This is the distance from the base of the chest to its highest point.
Waist (St)		Measure horizontally at the narrowest point.
Half hips (Sat)		Measured horizontally, behind the protruding points of the buttocks, in front, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen.
Root height (Br)		Measure along the back from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line. The measuring tape runs parallel to the spine.
Back shoulder height (Vps)		Measure along the back from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Armhole Width (Spr)		It is measured horizontally under the arm: from the place of articulation of the arm with the body from the back side to the articulation of the arm with the body from the front side. It can be calculated using a ruler located horizontally in the armpit.
Side length (db)		Measure from the back side from the top edge of the ruler located in the armpit to the waist line.
Shoulder length (Dp)		Measure along the shoulder from the base of the neck to the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder.
Chest Height (Hg)		Measure from the shoulder line at the base of the neck to the protruding point of the chest.
Front Shoulder Height (RH)		Measure from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the waist.
Front length to waist (dpt)		Measure from the shoulder at the base of the neck to the waist line.
Center of the chest (Cg)		Measure horizontally between the most protruding points of the chest.
Front Width (W)		Measured horizontally above the base of the chest between the corners of the armpits.
Width of the front at the protruding points of the chest (ShpII) Control measurement		It is measured horizontally between the corners of the armpits at the most protruding points of the chest.
Sleeve length (dr)		It is measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the desired length.
Sleeve length to elbow (DRL)		Measured from the point of articulation of the arm with the shoulder to the elbow.
Arm circumference (Op)		Measured horizontally at the fullest upper part of the arm (at armpit level).
Girth of the wrist (hand) Oz		Measured at the wrist joint, taking into account the bone.
Free fit allowances For a free fit, add 4-5 cm to the measurement of the second half-girth of the chest Cr II, to the measure of the half-girth of the hips Sat - 3 cm and to the measure of the half-girth of the waist St - 2 cm.

Let's start building.
We draw in the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper a right angle with a vertex at a point R(Fig. 1).

Dress length.
From the point P down we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(100 cm) and put a point H.

Armhole depth.
From the point P down we put off the taken measure of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr\u003d 21 cm) and put a point G.

Waistline.
From the point P down, we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist (Dst=39 cm) and put a dot T.

Hip line.
from point T down is usually delayed 18 - 19 cm. We will take the average 18,5 see and put an end B.

From points G, T, B and H to the left at a right angle we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.
From point G to the left, we postpone the measured back width Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase in free fit) and put an end to G1:
GG1 \u003d Ws + 0.5 \u003d 19.5 + 0.5 \u003d 20 cm.

Distance to the sideline.
from point G1 to the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 see and point G2:
G1 G2 \u003d Spr: 2 - 1 \u003d (12.5: 2) -1 \u003d 5.25 cm.
from point G2 draw a straight line down and put points at its intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T2 and B1.

Root width.
from point R postpone to the left 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P1:
PP1 \u003d 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Root height.
From point P1 upwards, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the height of the sprout Wr(41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put a point P2:
P1P2 \u003d Vr - Dst \u003d 41 - 39 \u003d 2 cm.
points R And P2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the neck of the back (line of the sprout).

Back height.
from point T1 up we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the back WPS(36 cm) and put a dot P.

from point G1 up put off 1/3 segment distance G1P and put a point ABOUT. Compasses from a point ABOUT draw to the left through the point P arc.

Shoulder length.
From the point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(taken measurement of shoulder length Dp (13cm) plus 2cm on the tuck), we draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12). Put a point at the intersection of two arcs P1.
R2 P1 =13+2=15cm.
points R2 And P1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1, O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back openings.

Back shoulder tuck.
from point R2 left on the line R2 P1 set aside 1/3 of the measured shoulder length Dp and set point B;
P2B=13:3=4.3cm.
Draw a vertical line down from point B 8 cm and put point B1.

from point IN left along the line R2P1 postpone 2 cm and put a point AT 2. From a point IN 1 through a point AT 2 draw a line long 8 cm and put a point AT 3. points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Lateral back line.
from point T2 put aside to the right 2 cm and put a point T3. points T3 And G2 connect.

Waistline shaping.
from point T3 up put off 1 cm and put a point T4, points T4 And T connect with a smooth curve (see Fig. 16).

from point B1 postpone to the left 1/2 C6 (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B2:
B1, B2 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm. points G4 And B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Back bottom width.
from point H to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance BB2) plus 2-3 cm and put a point H1. points H1 And B2 H1 up put off 1cm and put a point H2. points H2 And H connect with a smooth curve.

Back tuck.
Distance YG1 G3.from point G3 draw a vertical line down and put a dot at the intersection of it with the waistline T5, with a line of hips - a point B3. from point G3 put down 4 cm and put a point AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put a point B4.

Depth of tuck.
from point T5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, lay off along 1 cm and put points T6 And T7 AT 4 And B4(see fig. 20).

Back construction completed.

Before
back hem line HH1 let's continue to the left. from point H1 postpone approximately 45-50 cm and put a point H3. From a point H3 draw a vertical line up. From points G2, T2, B2 draw horizontal lines to the left until they intersect with the vertical. The points of intersection with the vertical line are denoted accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.
from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the semicircumference of the chest second CrII with an added free fit (54 + 4) minus the width of the back with an increase (according to the drawing ГГ1 = 20 cm) and minus armhole width (measurement taken 12.5 cm) and put a point G5:
Г4Г5=58-20-12.5=25.5cm.
Through the dot G5 draw a vertical line down, at the intersection of which with the waist line we put a point T9.

Distance to the sideline. from point G5 to the right, set aside half the width of the armhole Spr(12.5) plus 1 cm and put a point G6:
Г5Г6 \u003d 12.5: 2 + 1 \u003d 7.25 cm.
from point G6 draw a vertical line down and put dots at its intersection with the horizontal lines T10 and B6.

Front height.
from point T8 up we postpone the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist Dpt (44 cm) and put a point P3

Neck width.
from point P3 draw a horizontal line to the right and put aside on it 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh!(19cm) plus 1 cm and put a point P4:
R3 R4 \u003d 19: 3 + 1 \u003d 7.3 cm.

Neck depth.
from point P3 put down 1/3 semicircumference of the neck Ssh (19cm) plus 1.5 cm and put a point P5:
Р3Р5 \u003d 19: 3 + 1.5 \u003d 7.8 cm.
points R4 And P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1. from point O1 lay down at a right angle 1.25 cm and put a point 02 . points P5, 02 and P4 connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.
from point G4 to the right we postpone the taken measurement of the center of the chest CG (11 cm) and put a point G7. points P4 And G7 connect.

Chest height.
from point P4 down, extending the line Р4Г7, we postpone the taken measurement of chest height Vg (29.5 cm) and put a point C.

End of tuck.
Along the same line from the point C up put off 2.5 cm and put a point C 1. At this point, the chest tuck ends.

The size of the tuck solution.
from point C upwards we postpone the taken measurement of the size of the solution of the tuck Vrv (12 cm) and put a point U. From a point C, as from the center, through a point At draw an arc to the right.

Opening of the tuck.
from point At on the drawn arc, we set aside the difference between the measurements of the half-girth of the chest of the second CrII (54cm) and semi-girth of the chest of the first CgI (49cm) and put a point U1.
YU1 \u003d CrII - CrI \u003d 54 - 49 \u003d 5cm This construction can be done using a compass. From a point At, as from the center, radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with the previously constructed arc. Mark the point of intersection U1.
through dots C1 and U1 draw a straight line, continuing it up by an amount that is equal to the distance C1R4 and put a point P2:
C1P2 = C1R4.

Front shoulder height.
On a straight line T9G5, extending it upwards, from the point T9 we postpone the taken measurement of the height of the shoulder of the front runway (35 cm) and put a point P3.

Auxiliary armhole point.
from point G5 up put off 1/4 distances G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put a point 03 . Dot 0 3 - check Point. When wetting the sleeve into the armhole, it connects to the mark on the sleeve at the point ABOUT
From a point 0 3 circle through a point P3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length. From a point P2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to the measured shoulder length Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc to the intersection with the previously constructed arc and put a point P4 . points P4 , 0 3 And
G6 we connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the armhole in front .

Lateral front line.
from point T10 postpone to the left 1.5 cm and put a point T11. points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waistline shaping.
from point T11 up put off 1 cm and put a point T12. points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the thigh area.
from point B6 put aside to the right 1/2 difference between hip measurements Sat with an added free fit (60+3=63 cm) and second bust CrII with an added free fit (54+4=58cm) and put a point B7:
B6 B7 \u003d (63-58): 2 \u003d 2.5 cm.
points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Bottom front width.
from point H3 to the right, set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the hip line (see the drawing, this is the distance B5B7), plus 2-3 cm and put a point H4. points B7 And H4 connect with a straight line. from point H4 up put off 1 cm and put a point H5.

Front extension.
from point H3 put down 2 cm and put a point H6. points H6 and H5 connect with a smooth curve.

Construction of a tuck.
Distance G7G5 divide in half and put a dot G8. from point G8 down we draw a vertical line, and at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips we put points T13 and B8. from point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put points B5 and B9.

Groove depth.
from point T13 right and left put aside 1.25 cm and put points T14 and T15, which we connect with points B5 and B9. (See Fig.42)

Construction completed.
But before you start cutting, do not be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the main measurements again. Pay special attention to the waist circumference, since in this technique, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If during the check you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (namely in the waist circumferences), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the opening of the tucks along the waist line.

This is a pattern drawing for the base of a dress - a guide to creating a wide variety of models. Before proceeding with modeling, it is necessary to check the pattern, “put” it on the figure, and, if necessary, make adjustments. And only after full confidence that everything is in order, you can safely begin to create.

And remember, the road will be mastered by the walking one!

I sincerely wish you success!

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Among the many styles of women's dresses, a special place is occupied by a dress with a yoke. This product with an unusual cut adds lightness and charm to the female image, adds playfulness and coquetry. Every year, famous fashion designers present new collections that delight the public. You can see dresses with a classic yoke from Victoria Beckham, Karen Millen or unusual models of modern modern from the brands ZARA, Colin's, LACOSTE, Carlo Pazolini or Prada.

Moreover, such products are to the taste of fashionistas all over the world - Europe, Asia, America, Russia. What is the appeal of dresses with a yoke? These are always gentle, graceful designs that adorn and emphasize female beauty. In the photo you can see a lot of elegant models that embody original design ideas.

The history of the appearance of dresses with a yoke

The history of the appearance of the first dress has more than 6000 years. In the Middle Ages, such a piece of clothing was available only to noble ladies. Fashion changed from year to year, and in the 18th - 19th centuries, dresses became affordable and favorite clothes for women. A trapeze dress on a yoke became a similarity to a Russian sundress. This is a simple and at the same time attractive product of a free and comfortable cut.

In the 19th century, not only painting and poetry flourished, but also design art. Volumetric silhouettes are being replaced by long, straight models with a high waist and a yoke. For decoration, embroidery, oriental elements, small sleeves in the form of lanterns were used, adding medieval luxury. Every year new fashion trends appeared and unusual, original styles of dresses were presented. Today the market is replete with an incredible variety of models on the coquette of guipure, Irish lace, satin, silk, chiffon. Dresses attract with originality and grace, extraordinary luxury and at the same time simplicity.

Types of dresses with a yoke

Dresses with a yoke are versatile products that are useful for every day. and will be appropriate for a festive event. Evening dresses look attractive - a dress with a yoke and a cutout on the back or in the neckline. An interesting option is a dress with a yoke collar or in the form of a collar. For going to the cinema or to a disco, an outfit of two elements is suitable - coquettes and draperies. For daily wear, a medium-length dress with a straight or angled yoke is relevant.

The summer version of clothing is a light short dress with a round yoke and frills along it and along the bottom of the product. Demi-season models - a woolen dress, crocheted or knitted with a straight or angular yoke. Openwork knitwear effectively emphasizes the figure and gives harmony to the silhouette.

There are many ways to cut dresses that differ in the pattern of the coquette. There is an oval, round, angular, straight and curly yoke, which determine the external content of the dress.

Types of coquettes :

Classic.
To the middle of the armhole.
Curly.
With cutout.

Round yoke built into the neckline.
Coquette - collar.
Coquette - collar.
Triangular.
Double.

A dress with a knitted yoke of any shape looks beautiful. An openwork or transparent lace yoke can be made with an overlap, this will add zest to the female look. Dresses look elegant in which the sleeves and yoke are made of similar materials - guipure, lace, chiffon. Lightness is given by products with a multi-colored frill along the yoke, hem and sleeves. Such models are especially suitable for little girls. Products that combine drapery and yoke are airy, light and appropriate for parties or walks. A guipure dress with a yoke and translucent sleeves will add luxury and sexuality to the female look.

Tarik Ediz evening dresses with an oriental accent and bright colors attract many women. Deep necklines and an open neckline will emphasize beautiful breasts and a thin waist. Wearing a dress from Tarik Ediz, made of luxurious fabrics, decorated with artificial diamonds and pearls, any woman will feel like a real queen. A dress with a knitted yoke and embroidery from the Rosa Clara fashion house looks amazing. The products are dominated by soft colors, the features of the samples are chic embroideries and multi-colored stones. The wedding collections of the Spanish fashion designer Pronovias are very popular. His lace dress, which adds grace, is a real designer masterpiece!

What to wear dresses with a yoke?

The yoke harmoniously fits into any style and allows you to create a wide variety of ensembles. A classic dress with a detachable yoke goes well with elegant shoes, a fashionable hat and a bag with a hard bottom with drawstrings. Monochromatic dresses with a contrasting yoke to the middle of the armhole are ideally combined with accessories that match the color of the yoke. You can complement the image with a belt, a handbag with handles in the form of rings and elegant jewelry. A luxurious dress on a curly yoke is original and beautiful in itself. The cut line between the hem and the yoke can be broken or rounded. It is the shape of the coquette that determines the style and appearance.

Products with such a yoke can be combined with Bowling bags or Satchel bags that have similar cuts. Dresses with a yoke and a slit above the chest or on the back look great with a Field bag or Hobo bag and high boots with round cutouts.

Youth style is a combination of short dresses with a double yoke, comfortable flat shoes and Hipster or Tote bags. A dress with long sleeves will be in harmony with a jacket or cardigan, a tablet bag or a Week-end model. Dresses with a triangular yoke and peplum are the best fit for overweight women. The complicated shape of the coquette, decorated with sequins, beads or rhinestones, will add luxury and hide figure flaws. As for shoes, the best option would be low shoes, shoes or platform boots.

Solemn event always requires a special dress code. For a holiday or a party, a dress with a lace yoke is suitable. This is a thorough, feminine and elegant product that will create a wonderful ensemble. It can be combined with elegant shoes, wide-brimmed hat, clutch bag, exquisite jewelry. Cotton or viscose dresses with lace or satin inserts look beautiful. Such a dress with sleeves and frills made of lace or guipure will look even more elegant.

How to wear yoke dresses?

If you want to add slimness to your figure, it is advisable to wear long straight dresses or mid-length dresses with a belt at the waist. Depending on the physique, certain models are used to hide flaws and emphasize the dignity of the figure. Extra volume of the hips or abdomen will allow you to hide dresses with a low or high waist. Dresses with a classic round yoke will help to visually increase the volume of the chest. It is this yoke that performs the function of shoulder straps in summer models. The dress sits well and is kept on the shoulders thanks to the yoke, which is often combined with the American armhole and decorated with studs or beads.

A dress with a yoke skirt looks original, similar to Scottish designs. Such products are very convenient and comfortable, because they do not hinder movement. Dresses with a yoke in the form of a collar will help emphasize individuality. The product with a yoke-collar looks original. Rounded yokes always add femininity and charm. When composing an ensemble, it is important to choose all the elements of clothing so that they harmonize in style and color content.

Color schemes of dresses with a yoke

European fashion houses present bright models of dresses, including plain and contrasting elements. You can buy a branded Dior dress in yellow, mint or beige, black products with a white yoke from Chanel. Gorgeous Prada designs are available with oriental prints and small floral prints.

Beautifully designed DOLCE&GABBANA dresses in navy blue or muted gray with a large pattern attract the attention of fashionistas. You can buy a coral piece with red beads by Chanel or a playful plaid dress from fashion designer Burberry. ETRO dresses with patterns and flowers or HERMES SILK models with animal print look incredibly romantic. You can choose dresses for every taste and create your own style and romantic look!

This marvelous Marc Jacobs yoke dress looks very romantic. To sew such a dress with a yoke does not take much time.

Before you start modeling the dress, you need to build it to your own measurements. The length of the dress from the waist is about 60 cm.

On the pattern base of the dress, built to your measurements, apply the modeling lines, as shown in the pattern drawings.

On the front half of the dress, you need to make an increase for the clasp. The width of the finished dress clasp is 2 cm. The clasp of the dress is cut off and cut out separately.

The bust tuck of the dress must be closed on the yoke of the dress, the lower part of the tuck does not close, but goes into gathers.

Since there is additional volume along the waist line of the dress, which also goes into gathers or pleats (if you wish, you can put pleats instead of gathers), you need to cut the dress as shown in the drawing of the dress pattern and move it apart by about 4 cm. If you want more gathers, move apart by more distance.

Perform a flare on the side as shown in fig. 1. Additional need to build

Rice. 1. Modeling the front and back of the dress

How to cut and sew a dress with a yoke

From the main material it is necessary to cut out:

Coquette in front of the dress - 2 children.
Dress coquette placket - 2 children.
The middle detail of the front of the dress to the waist - 1 child. with a fold
Skirt in front of the dress - 1 child. with a fold
The back of the dress - 2 children.
Dress back skirt - 2 children.
Collar - 4 children.

From the fabric - the companion must be cut out:

The frill of the bottom of the dress is a strip of fabric 12 cm wide (10 cm in finished form) and a length equal to the length of the dress along the bottom cut, multiplied by 1.4.
Ruffles for armholes of the dress - 2 strips of fabric 4-5 cm wide (2.3-3 cm in finished form) and a length equal to the length of the armhole in front and back of the dress multiplied by 1.8.
The belt of the dress is a strip of fabric 15 cm wide (5 cm in finished form) and about 2 m long.

Additionally, the collar of the dress and the placket of the dress are sheathed with narrow frills. The width of the frills is 0.5 cm, the length is equal to the length of the workpieces, multiplied by 1.6.

IMPORTANT! For convenience, a hidden zipper should be sewn on the back of the dress.

Rice. 2. Details of the cut of the dress with a yoke

How to sew a dress

Sweep and stitch the shoulder seams of the dress. Overlock seam allowances in the process of sewing a dress with an overlock stitch and iron.

Strengthen the outer details of the collar of the dress with thermal fabric. Fold the details of the collar in pairs face to face, sweep and stitch in the outer side, turn it out, sweep clean.

Sweep the collar into the neck of the dress between the control marks C, sew, process the seam with an overlock or a slanting trim.

Lay the yoke trims of the dress face to face with the yoke details and baste and stitch. (Do not forget to put a narrow frill under the bar).

Tuck the allowance along the slats of the dress, baste. Turn the straps inside out and stitch along the top short side to the collar. Turn the strips inside out, sweep the corners cleanly and iron.

Sew the strips to the edge.

Put the yoke of the right and left sides of the dress on top of each other so that the slats lie one on top of the other. The right side of the yoke of the dress should lie over the left side of the yoke of the dress.

On the middle part of the dress, overlock (preferably with a rolled seam) the upper cut, assemble (the length of the top of the part = the length of the bottom of the yoke of the dress). Put the assembled part on top of the yoke (the overlay seam should lie on top of the yoke), topstitch.

Trim the ruffles for the armholes along the edge and pull to the length of the armhole. Put frills on the armholes of the dress face to face, baste and stitch.

Sweep and stitch the side seams of the dress. Sweep and grind the fabric of the skirt of the dress along the side seams.

Stitch the skirt of the dress to the top of the dress, slightly gathering where necessary. Sew a frill along the bottom of the dress. Stitch the waist allowances at a distance of 1.5 cm to make a drawstring, insert an elastic band.

Sew on the back of the dress. Sew a belt to the dress. The width of the finished belt is about 5 cm, the length is determined individually.

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Dress pattern for obese women with coquettes and pleats on the front and back. The dress can be worn alone or with trousers. Sizes 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64.

According to this pattern, the dress is cut from silk, viscose, cotton, knitwear. The fabric should drape well and be thin enough to keep the gathering at the front soft.

Different sizes of the dress go under different model numbers - 386 and 407.

Cutting details and seam allowances

Already contains processing allowances 1.5 cm wide.

After cutting the details of the dress for full, duplicate the coquettes of the front and back of the dress with adhesive non-woven fabric.

How to sew a dress according to this pattern

Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the front and back yoke.

Stitch the inside of the front and back yoke along the shoulder and side seams. Stitch the neck of the yoke. Sweep open sections of the yoke and inner yoke. Connect the cuts with machine stitching. Notch the seam allowances in the rounds.

Sew parts of the front of the dress along the cuts of the reliefs, iron the seam allowances on the side parts of the front.

On the front side, lay the folds on the central part of the front, aligning the dotted lines. Stitch along the dotted lines indicated on the pattern. Iron the center crease, aligning the stitching with the middle line. Iron the rest of the folds from the center, towards the side cuts. Lay a temporary line along the upper sections of the folds.

Having folded the details with the face, pin the yoke of the dress to the upper cut of the main part of the dress, aligning the middle lines and seams, stitch it. Iron the yoke allowances.

Lay a line along the collar of the sleeve for the subsequent landing. Stitch the seam of the dress sleeve. Iron the bottom of the sleeve inside out, fold the open section inward to the fold, iron and baste.

A dress with a yoke is characterized by an unusual cut and an additional sewn-in detail in the shoulder area. Unlike men's products, women's coquette can have different shapes (rectangular, circular, triangular). On dresses and blouses, it is made either from a denser or thinner, transparent material (lace). Very often strewn with rhinestones or other decorative elements and accessories.

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A detachable yoke can be placed on almost any product (trousers, skirt, jeans, shirt). Accordingly, its location will depend on the item of clothing. On the dress, the yoke is sewn to the front or back, and sometimes on both sides. The coquette always decorates the product and favorably distinguishes it from simple styles. Such an element is able to create both gentle, graceful images, and emphasize the rigor and conciseness of the model.

History and types of coquettes

The appearance of the first dress with a yoke dates back to the Middle Ages. Then such a product was available exclusively to wealthy women with a special position and status. But over time, the social circle of people who have the right to wear these robes has expanded. Already in the 18th - 19th centuries, almost any woman could afford a dress with a yoke.

In Russia, for the first time, the yoke began to be used on trapezoid sundresses. The element brought variety to models with a simple cut and was often performed in contrasting colors.

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Later, straight or slightly flared silhouettes are replaced by options with a high waist and different types of coquettes. In addition to an interesting cut, the dresses were provided with decorative trim, embroidery with oriental ornaments and puffed sleeves, and every year new styles appeared.

The modern world of fashion is distinguished by a wide variety of products with a yoke. Often this sew-on fragment is made of silk, guipure, tulle, Irish lace, satin or crepe chiffon.

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Types of coquettes

Classic with a straight sewing line.
Figured with a curved sewing line.
To the middle or below the armhole.
With an additional cutout at the front or back.
Round shape, sewn into the neckline.
Triangular shape, sewn into the neck.
Multilayer.
Collar.
Collar.

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Pattern

The options presented in stores may not always correspond to the preferences and features of a woman's figure, so many people think about how to create a product with a yoke with their own hands.

It is worth starting with the modeling of the pattern, since this style of dresses has a complex cut, which is almost impossible to draw directly on the fabric.

You can design a pattern yourself or use a ready-made sample: just print it or redraw it, and then transfer it to the fabric.

In order for the product to be sewn with high quality and fit well on you, the finished dress pattern is adjusted for you.

Required measurements

Bust and above bust.
Neck girth.
Waist.
Shoulder length (from the base of the neck to the articulation of the arm with the shoulder).
Hip circumference.

Then transfer the base pattern of the dress to paper in accordance with your parameters. Do not forget that the front or back, depending on the style, should have an increase in the fastener, which is modeled separately. Accordingly, with a fastener width of 2 cm, it is necessary to add these 2 cm to the width of the fragment with a zipper or buttons.

If your style provides extra volume instead of a fitted silhouette, then it can be created by draping the fabric into gathers or pleats. To do this, you need to cut (that is, cut into fragments) the base and expand it by 4-5 cm. To get more folds, the dress pattern should be expanded by a distance of 5 cm.

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As a result, you should get the following fragments for the simplest cutting:

1 or 2 details of the yoke in front of the dress, depending on the presence or absence of a fastener;
the central part of the front to the waist (1 part);
front and back for the skirt;
the back of the dress;
elements for the collar (if it is provided by the style).

Additionally, you can cut out a frill for the bottom of the product, frills for the sleeves and a dress belt. The parameters will depend on the desired volume and length of the flounces or pleats. The front and back of the skirt can be a single piece with the central details of the dress, especially in straight cuts.

Sewing

In order to sew a dress with a yoke, you will need:

about 2 meters of fabric (knitwear, cotton, linen);
1 meter of main fabric or decorative material for the coquette as desired (lace, organza, contrasting fabrics);
pattern;
ruler;
iron;
sewing machine;
french pins;
scissors;
crayon, soap or washable fabric marker.

Progress

First, transfer all the fragments of the pattern to the fabric, taking into account the allowances for the seams (about 0.5 cm for the main seams, 2 cm for the fastener). Cut them out.
Form darts on the front side of the central part of the dress. Draw two small cone-shaped fragments. Fold them in half and secure with French pins.
Stitch the darts with a straight stitch and iron in the desired direction.
Form small assemblies. It is recommended to start drapery from the center of the product. For one fold, grab the same amount of fabric on both sides and fix it with a pin to the front fragment of the yoke. Be careful when assembling so that the finished product sits well in the chest area. Avoid too wide folds. In this case, both the yoke and the base should be located with the front side inward.
Stitch the yoke and base. Start from the center and gradually move towards the sides, removing the pins one by one. After stitching, overlock the edges by hand, or leave them open. Smooth them with an iron in different directions so that they lie flat.
Sew the back piece of the yoke to the back of the base. There is no need to form darts for this, so you can connect the parts with a few pins and sew right away. The edges of the seams are processed in the same way.
Fix the shoulder ends of the back and front of the yoke and sew them with a straight stitch. Finish this place with an edge treatment. The ends can be sewn with double stitching, which will not only prolong the life of the shoulder seams, but also look stylish and original.
If you want to make a double yoke (from two layers), then the front and back of the base must be cut according to the yoke pattern. Then all stitches are sewn with a needle for dense fabrics. Both layers are stitched at once.
After sewing the yoke and the base, side seams can be formed immediately. If you want to create a drawstring or darts along the waist line, then you need to sew the dress on the sides as a last resort.
Without turning the product inside out, connect the side edges with pins, stitch and process. If you have a non-elastic fabric (thick cotton, linen), then the side seams are best treated with an overlock so that they do not diverge during wear.
Finish the work by processing armholes. All open ends in such a product are easy to process with a hem. You can also diversify the straight cut by adding a frill along the edge or a belt. To do this, you need to put strips for the frill on the armholes of the dress and on the bottom edge face to face, baste and stitch.
Form a belt from the remnants of the main material: fold a strip of fabric in half on the wrong side, sew the open edge, turn it inside out and finish the ends with a straight stitch.