Enlarge dress pattern by 2 sizes. How to change the size of the finished pattern. Working with ready-made patterns from fashion magazines. Paper pattern correction

It is difficult for women of short stature to choose clothes for themselves - the sleeves are always long, the waist is not in place, the trousers drag along the floor ... The solution is simple: sew yourself, because any pattern can be shortened! The standard pattern is designed for an average height of 168 cm, and such an “injustice” can cause a lot of inconvenience to those who are noticeably below this bar. To shorten any pattern, you must make sure that it fits your bust / hips - this is a must. If your main measurements match those given in the Burda table, but the height is not standard, but low (not lower than 160 cm), then you can shorten the pattern along the auxiliary lines marked in the figures by the indicated number of millimeters. If you are below 160 cm or your main measurements differ from those given in the Burda table, then the number of millimeters by which the pattern should be shortened should be determined by you yourself.

If you are taller or shorter than 160 cm and your measurements do not match the data in the table, the extra number of centimeters should be determined independently: for the front / back, the main measure is the length of the back, for sleeves - the length of the sleeve, for trousers - the length of the inseam. In any case, before you start adjusting the pattern, attach it to yourself and go up to a large mirror - it will immediately become clear to you where and how to shorten the pattern!

Shoulder products

For dresses, blouses, jackets, coats, the pattern is adjusted at two levels: at half the height of the armhole - by 1/3 of the required number of millimeters and between the armhole and the waistline - by 2/3 of the required number of millimeters.

In addition, for approx. 15 cm below the waist line, you need to shorten the pattern by another 1 cm. In order for the sleeve to fit into the armhole after adjusting the front / back, it should be shortened accordingly in the rim area, and the sleeve with a flat head should be narrowed along the seam lines to the bottom edge.

If the design of the sleeve has a low collar, then the collar height is not changed, and the sleeve is narrowed / expanded from the ends of the collar line to the lower edge along the seam lines of the sleeve, nullifying the drawn lines.

Skirts

Adjustment of the skirt pattern is performed at the level of the hips. If the skirt style has a narrowing or widening downwards, the excess / lack of length is corrected along the line above the knee: in the middle of the upper leg.

Trousers

Pants at the top level are shortened by 10 mm, and at each of the other two levels - above and below the knee - by half the remaining length by which they need to be shortened. The figures show how to draw auxiliary (broken) lines. Basic rule: the lines are drawn strictly at right angles to the direction arrow of the shared thread.

PATTERN CORRECTION

Above or below the adjustment line, draw a parallel line at the distance by which you want to shorten the pattern. Lay a fold on the pattern, aligning both drawn lines. Size comparison chart Standard sizes: 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 Short sizes: 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Just divide in half! The measurements for both groups are completely the same, the difference is only in height: the standard size suggests a height of 168 cm, and the size for low ones is 160 cm.

The trousers and sleeves of the jackets are long, the waists of the dresses are too low. If your height is not more than 160 cm, these problems are familiar to you. Or vice versa, short sleeves, high waist. say that your height is above average. Standard pattern designed for an average height of 168 cm.

Adjust standard pattern according to the proportions of your figure is not difficult at all. Prerequisite for Success: Chosen pattern should fit your bust/hips.

Extra tip:

In need of adjustment of paper patterns it is easy to verify by applying it to the figure standing in front of the mirror. Having determined in what places and how much the pattern should be shortened, laying out its details next to each other. as shown in the figures, and at the same levels by drawing correction lines.

Adjustment patterns given for 2 options: for short ones - height 160 cm and for tall ones - height 176 cm. Usually, in fashion magazines with patterns, a table of sizes is given. If your height is 160 cm and the data given in the size table for women of this height matches your measurements, then you can shorten the pattern by the number of centimeters indicated in this article.

Shoulder items:

For dresses, blouses, jackets, coats adjustment patterns It is made at two levels: at half the height of the armhole and between the waist line and the armhole. For this, auxiliary transverse lines are drawn along the line of the middle of the armhole and between the lower end of the armhole and the waist line (Fig. 1).

Remember the basic rule for blouses, jackets and dresses: the difference in length is divided in half and made in half along the drawn transverse auxiliary lines.

Adjustment patterns armholes is to lengthen or shorten the sleeves.

Trousers

Adjustment patterns trousers are produced at 3 levels:

On the upper transverse line changes by 1 cm

Along the lines below and above the knee, it changes by half of the remaining length difference (Fig. 2)

When working on pattern trousers with a cutting barrel, before marking the correction lines, the front half should be combined with its cutting side part. Upper correction line on pattern trousers should go just below the entrance to the pocket, so that the changes also affect the pocket.

Skirts

Adjustment patterns skirts are made at the level of the hips. If the skirt style has a narrowing or widening downwards, the excess / lack of length is corrected along the line above the knee: in the middle of the upper leg.

Dashed lines are drawn in the drawings, along which the details of the paper pattern should be shortened or lengthened.

How to shorten a pattern

On patternsdraw correction lines as detailed above. These dashed lines must run strictly perpendicular to the direction arrow of the shared thread so that the design “balance” is not lost. Then, above and below each adjustment line, draw two more lines, the distance between which will be just the amount that should be shortenedpatternat this level (Fig. 3).

Now it remains only to lay on pattern crease, aligning both lines with each other. The “fold” can be pinned with pins or glued together.

How to lengthen a pattern

On patterns draw correction lines as detailed above. Cut paper detail patterns along the auxiliary line, glue a strip of paper under one edge. On a strip parallel to the edge of the pattern, draw an auxiliary line, measuring the distance by which you want to lengthen the pattern in this place. lower part patterns glue along the drawn auxiliary line (Fig. 4). Along the rest of the dashed lines, lengthen the pattern as well.

Important: in order not to move the parts on the sides patterns, draw an arrow in the direction of the shared thread on an extension strip of paper and, when gluing, make a single line from the arrows on the pattern.

In its publications, Burda offers patterns in various sizes, it may happen that for the model you have chosen, a pattern is offered that is one size different from yours. Especially for such cases,
so that you do not have to give up your favorite model, we will show you how to reduce or increase the pattern by one size. Do not measure the details of the pattern, but only change the pattern to the number of centimeters required according to the size table.

By comparing the tabular measurements of chest, waist and hips, you will find that measurements from 34 to 46 sizes differ by 4 cm, and sizes 46 and large sizes - by 6 cm. In the placed figures, the numbers on the auxiliary lines mean a change in width by 4 cm, and the numbers in brackets are 6 cm.
Draw vertical and horizontal auxiliary (dashed) lines on the pattern details (1).

To change the width cut the pieces along the vertical lines. If you want to enlarge the pattern, move the parts of the part apart by the indicated amount and glue the part to the lined strip of paper. At the side seams, expand the part by the number of centimeters indicated in the figure. Want to
reduce the pattern - glue the parts of the cut part, putting them on top of each other and thus reducing the width of the part by the specified number of centimeters.

To change the length cut the pattern pieces along the horizontal guide lines. The length of the back should be shortened or lengthened by 0.5 cm, and the length of the front to the waist by 1 cm.
To equalize the side seams of the front and back after changing the details, the front and back under the armhole are lengthened or shortened by 0.5 cm. The missing 0.5 cm is compensated at the front tuck. The line of change is drawn so that it passes through the top of the tuck and divides the tuck exactly in half.

Important: For models with a tuck from the waistline or with a relief seam, lengthen or shorten the front by 0.5 cm at chest height as explained in figures 7 and 8. For models without darts, lengthen the pattern by adding 0.5 cm at half the height of the armhole. Reducing the pattern. You can ignore this addition.

The sleeve should fit the armhole, to do this, narrow or expand the sleeve at the seams, negating the change in the downward direction, by the same amount that the front and back were changed at the side seam.
For double-seam sleeves, the width of the lower part of the sleeve changes by the number of centimeters by which the front and back at the side seam were changed.
To change the width of the model with raglan sleeves, draw vertical lines, connecting the details of the sleeve, starting from the top edge, with the details of the front and back along the raglan stitching lines (2).

And is it possible to reduce the pattern from the size range of plus models? For 1-2 sizes, you can always make a downward adjustment to any Burda pattern. It's quite simple, the principle is the same as in the case of enlarging the pattern - adjust the pattern you like right on the pattern sheet.

: Master Class

You will need:

Pencil;
Square and ruler;
Drawing template.

As you know, all Burda patterns have colored contour lines, each of which corresponds to only one model. The number of lines corresponds to the size range of a particular pattern.

To get a smaller pattern, you need to draw new lines along the inner contours of the details of the pattern you want to reduce. Draw new lines at the same distance as between the contour lines of existing sizes.

For maximum accuracy, be sure to use a ruler.

In order to correctly transfer, for example, the shoulder mark on the hem of the sleeve, it is necessary to connect all the marks of the size range with an auxiliary line. The new mark will be at the intersection of the construction line and the new line you have drawn with your size.

If you want to reduce the pattern of the size range 44-52, when drawing oblique lines through the corners and the contour line of the size, be guided by the distances between the contour lines of sizes 46 and 44.

Important:

If you are in doubt about the changes that you made to the pattern, sew a trial model, for example, from an old sheet. If necessary, make additional adjustments to match the individual characteristics of your figure. Then transfer all the changes to the paper pattern and proceed to cutting the “clean cut”. And don't waste your time on it. Mastery comes with experience.

Appreciated at all times. Now, when store shelves are filled with a variety of sewing machines, and kiosks are full of bright fashion magazines, it's hard not to join this wonderful craft.

Beginning dressmakers are often faced with a situation where the chosen model of trousers is smaller than the required size.

To help yourself in this case, take a few simple steps.

How to increase the pattern of trousers?

The considered method of increasing the pattern is universal for all types and styles of clothing.

It allows you to correctly change the finished patterns if the required increase does not exceed two sizes.

Step 1

Prepare:

A sheet of rolled tracing paper with dimensions: width = 1m, length = length of trousers +10 cm.
Triangle, long and short rulers.
Soft pencil, felt-tip pens.
Several flat weights for the convenience of working with tracing paper.

Step 2

Lay out a magazine insert on a wide, flat surface. Find the largest contours of the desired model and examine them carefully.

You will see that:

on the sheet there are patterns for several of the same model, which are separated from each other by small distances. They differ in the type of boundary line (dotted line, dots, etc.);
the pattern has well-defined corners, straight and rounded lines, auxiliary designations;
in some areas, the contours of patterns of different sizes diverge significantly, while in other places they converge to one point.

Step 3

Spread tracing paper on top of the liner sheet and secure with weights to prevent it from shifting.

Start working with one half of the trousers:

Connect with a line all the points of the given dimensions, indicating the upper right corners of the patterns. Measure a segment equal to the distance between adjacent corner points. Let's denote it with the letter A. If the required size starts from 48 and above, then the value of A increases by one and a half times.
From the extreme point on the resulting line, set aside segment A as many times as the dimensions need to be changed. Mark with a marker.
Do the same with all extreme points.

Step 4

The most crucial stage is drawing the contour of curved lines:

Mentally break the existing line into sections no longer than 3 cm. In especially rounded places, the step frequency should not exceed 1 cm.
Using a triangle to each point, restore the perpendicular and on the resulting line determine the value A for this section. Set aside the required amount of A on a perpendicular segment and determine the location of the new point.
Perform this operation sequentially along the entire length of the back and front seams, codpiece, pockets and other details provided for by the style.

The more intermediate points are indicated, the more correctly the pattern will be built, and the product will be impeccably

Step 5

Define new lines of side and internal seams in the same way.

Step 6

Circle the outline of the new pattern with a felt-tip pen. Apply the designation of the shared thread. Change the position of the knee line marks and other auxiliary signs in the manner described above. Cut out the pattern.

Follow the same steps for the other half.

Attach the resulting patterns. If it turns out that , then follow the next step.

Step 7

Lay the patterns on the table, joining the protruding points of the ischial arch. On the front half of the trousers, mark three auxiliary lines:

The first passes through the middle of the segment connecting the upper cut and the lower point of the curved line of the median seam.
The second is 15 cm above the knee line.
The third is located 15 cm below the knee line.
Using a long ruler, extend them to the pattern of the back half.

Step 8

Cut the paper along the obtained auxiliary segments and paste additional strips of the required width.

The lengthening of the pattern along the first line should not exceed 1 cm.

The skills of changing ready-made patterns help out not only beginner dressmakers, but also experienced craftsmen. This allows you to save time and use interesting design solutions from well-known fashion designers. Start with the simple styles of dress pants, and soon you will submit to the most interesting and sophisticated outfits. The ability to work with ready-made patterns creates the basis for mastering the design of clothing.