Pattern of women's trousers 48 size narrowed. Pattern of women's trousers: a fashionable new thing for every season. Building a drawing of the front half of the trousers
Chinos (chinos): what is it? In this article, we will talk about how they differ from others, how to choose the right size chinos, and what clothes and shoes to wear with them.
Distinctive features of men's chinos
Chinos are typical representatives. They are the epitome of convenience, comfort and practicality.
The classics of the genre are trousers with a high or medium fit and moderately wide, slightly tapered legs. However, wide straight trousers, skinny and narrow options are also equally popular - each has its own zest.
Chinos are cotton pants. Initially, Chinese twill fabric was used for sewing chinos - a lightweight cotton fabric with a diagonal weave. Thanks to this, the trousers were durable and not hot. Modern trends to increase the practicality, durability and elasticity of things allow the use of cotton fabrics with a slight addition of synthetics.
The combination of light matter and cut is the key to convenience and comfort. The practicality of the thing is added by capacious hidden type beveled front pockets. The hand in them lies naturally and comfortably. There are vertical back pockets (one or two), often with a small button as a closure.
Today, chinos are represented by various styles and models fastened with a practical zipper (low-rise trousers, as a rule) or stylish buttons (mid-rise trousers). Available in a range of colors: solid colors, trousers with contrasting inserts, chinos with original trendy prints.
Who are chinos for? They do not drive into the framework - neither in age, nor in style, nor in physique and features of the figure. You can always choose the best option that will be in harmony with your lifestyle, individual preferences and requirements.
Fashionable models with a narrower silhouette are suitable for young people, and middle-aged men can purchase a calm monochromatic version with a classic moderately free silhouette for their basic wardrobe.
The most suitable season for chinos - a warm season, because the trousers are light. However, experiments with fabric (adding wool and synthetics to cotton) made it possible to expand the scope of the temperature regime up to a thaw or the first significant frosts.
Here main advantages chino pants:
- Compatibility. Pants go well with clothes, shoes and accessories of various styles.
- Practicality and durability. Chinos serve for a long time, without losing a neat attractive appearance, require minimal maintenance.
- Multifunctionality. They are appropriate not only for everyday wear, but also in the office, at events and meetings, indispensable for travel and long trips.
- Availability. Quality branded chinos can be purchased for as little as $20-$30, and not miss out on seasonal sales in online and offline stores, and even cheaper.
History of origin of chinos
The history of the chino began around the middle of the 19th century, when comfortable, lightweight twill trousers took their place in the uniforms of the British colonial soldiers in stuffy and hot India. Even then they owed their style to traditional Indian pants. Marked and catchy white color was changed to a kind of khaki, having dyed the fabric with a mixture of coffee, curry and mulberry juice.
By its name chinos are due to the origin of matter. At that time, it was produced only in China (in English, China is translated as Сhina).
The starting point for the beginning of the victorious procession of these trousers around the world was the end of World War II. Returning home, the soldiers continued to wear comfortable and non-staining trousers in everyday life.
However, if earlier chinos could only be attributed to the style of soft, non-aggressive military, then modern trousers simply cannot be recognized. The result of the versatility of the style, combined with the imagination of designers, can be seen today in the form of a wide range of chinos and their high popularity.
How are chinos different from slacks?
The variety of styles and models of trousers in casual (informal everyday style) and smart-casual (business informal style) can be confusing and misleading from time to time.
A modern man who wants to dress stylishly, fashionably, with taste, is interested in the question of what to choose - chinos or slacks? Or maybe it's the same thing, because slacks began to gain popularity at the same time as chinos?
Both those and other trousers are united by the fact that they belong to casual styles, have a straight or slightly narrowed silhouette, are made of cotton or linen-based material, do not hinder movement and require minimal maintenance.
Some models are really similar, but there are differences:
- Textile. Slacks are sewn from a dense fabric (blended gabardine), chinos are made from a lightweight one.
- Texture. Slacks are spacious and resemble jeans in shape and texture, while chinos are a confident alternative to jeans.
- Compatibility. Slacks are less combinatorial and versatile than chinos - this applies to both the choice of clothes and the choice of shoes, slacks are more demanding.
- Tucks. Slacks are often sewn with pleats at the waist (tucks), chinos are not.
Material
basis fabrics for sewing chinos makes up cotton. This explains the lightness of the trousers, their high thermal and vapor control properties, hypoallergenicity, and pleasant tactile sensations.
twill weave provides the cotton fabric with diagonal mobility. The material is completely inelastic. Without the addition of synthetic fibers to cotton or linen, skinny models are uncomfortable. Comfort and freedom are the virtues of chinos, regardless of the model.
For hot time year it is better to give preference to natural fabrics with a minimum content of synthetics (up to 10%). But 15-30% of synthetic fibers in combination with cotton are better able to retain heat on cold days.
It is worth remembering that synthetics poorly remove sweat from the body, can be dangerous for allergy sufferers and people with very sensitive skin. It is better to refuse to buy a model with a high content of synthetic additives at any time of the year.
Croy
Pants do not constrain movements due to the features of the cut. There are three types of chinos cut:
- Straight- trousers of a free straight cut with an average fit, buttons are used as fasteners. Stylish, comfortable, functional. Straight chinos go well with middle-aged and older men, this model looks elegant and restrained, combined with both formal shoes and sandals or sports shoes.
- Slim- tapered trousers. They have a low fit, but there are medium options. The zip closure is in harmony with this cut, giving things more style and practicality. Skinny chinos look good with casual shoes, classic and sports jumpers, pullovers. Slim chinos are a good option for visual correction of imperfections and an emphasis on the merits of the physique and figure.
- super slim- ultra-slim trousers with zipper. Today, such chinos are represented by numerous options, up to tight-fitting legs. The cut of the top is different, the fit and width are low. Superslims especially appealed to the younger generation of experimenters.
Left to Right: Mid Rise, Straight/Low Rise, Skinny/Low Rise, Ultra Skinny
Colors
Classics of the genre men's chinos are options made in a plain pastel palette: discreet khaki, beige, sand, white, coffee with milk. The advantage here is a high degree of compatibility with different colors in other garments and accessories. This range is the most in demand and does not lose ground for at least 5-7 years.
Verified color combination options these are combinations of white and black, white with all shades of brown, khaki and "sand", sea wave and coral, graphite with gray.
If desired, you can experiment with ultra-bright colors, combining orange, yellow or crimson electric trousers with blue cropped jackets, jumpers and sports jackets rich in natural shades, up to pilot jackets. In this version, fashionable casual trousers look spectacular and piquant, harmoniously balancing several styles in one look (military, sports, casual, hip-hop, rock).
A win-win ensemble for chinos of any color is a contrasting but color-matching top: dark pants - a light top, and vice versa.
Bold chinos with abstract prints look spectacular with the rest of the clothes in plain, calm colors. The exception is accessories - a belt, a scarf, laces on sneakers, etc. These are bright accents that emphasize the boldness and audacity of the image.
What to wear with chinos: we select clothes and shoes
Chinos are bright representatives of casual and smart-casual style. A high degree of compatibility, the ability to combine the incongruous (and it looks fresh and unusual), convenience - all this has made chinos a favorite subject of the basic wardrobe of fashionable party-goers, managers, entrepreneurs, creative individuals and all those who strive to live a full life, know how to appreciate comfort.
Chinos are one of the few types of trousers that are comfortable and allow you to wear the same comfortable clothes and shoes. Pants go well with cropped jackets of a straight and slightly fitted silhouette, T-shirts, shirts (including classic ones) with classic or wide polo silhouettes and jumpers. The length of loose clothing with chinos should not hide the line of the front pockets. If you decide to complement the trousers and the image with a belt, then the accessory should be opened.
The fashion trend in business-casual style is a combination of classic straight or skinny chinos with a classic shirt, a fitted jacket and a tie or bow tie. In this form, it is possible for graduation, and for a business meeting or an official event. Classic shoes or comfortable casual loafers are suitable as shoes.
However, it is worth remembering one important detail. The length of the legs of modern chinos slightly opens the ankle joint, and therefore it is better to wear high socks (there is no elastic in the visibility zone) or to refuse them altogether.
Pants go great with different types of shoes: sneakers, sneakers, sneakers, lace-up or buckle boots.
For more information about men's shoes: classification, names, photos, see.
How to choose the right chinos size
Chinos are difficult to choose, focusing solely on the dimensional grid. Fitting plays an important role, because the subtleties of the cut and the sizes of the manufacturers vary.
Pants should not cause discomfort when moving.
Leg length in chinos, it partially or completely opens the joint. If the pants are too long - it does not matter, you can turn the edges out 2-3 turns, although this is not necessary.
But if you already comply with fashion trends, then in the gates you should observe slight negligence - do not be afraid to allow asymmetry, folds. It will only add spice. In addition, by experimenting with the height of the sides of the resulting cuff, you can visually adjust the length and line of the leg.
Learn more about how to properly tuck your pants in this video:
Signs of quality
When choosing pants, do not rush. It is worth paying attention to brand name, product appearance and some points.
- The composition and origin of the fabric. A conscientious manufacturer (brand) will not allow himself to use materials with a high content of synthetics. On the contrary, bet on naturalness. The synthetic component is added to give the fabric and the finished product additional properties that increase practicality without sacrificing comfort and safety.
- Smooth cut lines, ergonomics. The silhouette of good trousers resembles the lines of the body.
- Smooth strong seams, both external and from the wrong side of things.
- Features of fixing trousers. The number of buttons on the belt (2-3 is ideal).
- Labels. Design, literacy and reliability of tags and labels.
Brands and prices
Mango has earned a reputation as one of the leading brands. These clothes are preferred by celebrities because of the high quality and original individual style of the clothing lines. Impeccable quality and prestige can cost the buyer of chinos $35 to $50 or more. Sale prices are better.
NEXT, GAP, H&M, Polo Garage, ASOS, ZARA are also worthy representatives of the fashion industry in the middle price segment. Depending on the model and collection, you can buy stylish men's chinos for an average of $25-40.
George, LC Waikiki, Burton, Kotton, Bershka and others, despite the quality and attractive products, offer the most affordable and reasonable prices - from 15 to 30 dollars, there are cheaper and more expensive ones.
Broad horizons open up before contemporaries - to look stylish, providing themselves with the proper level of comfort. To wear chinos means to feel comfortable, to be in trend and not to spend too much!
Hello!
In this article, we will analyze the construction of the design of classic women's trousers according to the calculation-graphic method of cutting TsOTSHL.
For the drawing of a pattern of trousers according to the TsOTSHL method, we need the following measurements:
Name of measurements and symbols | cm |
|---|---|
Waist (St) | 28,5 |
Half hips (Sat) | 43,5 |
Seat Height (Sun) | |
Front length (chipboard) | 103,5 |
Back length (Dsz) | 105,5 |
Side length (dsb) | |
Knee Waist Length(Dtk) | 58,5 |
Product length (Di) | |
Pants bottom width (Wn) (according to model) | 16 (half measurement) |
In this technique, the following allowances for free fit are proposed:
In this example, we'll be using denim pockets for close-fitting trousers.
Let's move on to building the front half of the trousers
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, which is 10-15 cm larger than the measurement of the length of the product.
Drawing grid
Departing from the top edge of the paper 5-10 cm and from the left edge 10-15 cm, draw a vertical segment TH equal to the measure of the length of the product:
TN \u003d Di,
(segment TN=Di=100cm).
seat line level: from the point T down, we postpone the measurement of the height of the seat + CO and mark the point I:
TY \u003d Sun + CO,
(TR = 29 + 0 = 29cm).
Hip line level find by the formula:
YaB \u003d 1/3 x TY,
we put the resulting value upward from point I and put point B (YB \u003d 29: 3 \u003d 9.7 cm).
Knee line level: down from the point T, set aside the measurement of Dtk and mark the point K:
TK = Dtk
(TC = 58.5 cm).
Now let's draw horizontal lines from each point: T, B, Z, K and N.
Hip Width
We will find this value by the formula:
BB 1 \u003d 0.5 x (Sat + CO) - k,
k \u003d 1cm - for small ones;
The resulting value will be postponed from point B to the right horizontally and put point B 1
(BB 1 \u003d 0.5 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 1 \u003d 21 cm).
Through point B 1 we draw a vertical straight line up and down to the intersection with the horizontals from the points T and I, the intersection points will be denoted by T 1 and I 1.
Centerline position
To the left of the point B 1 we set aside the segment B 1 B0, the value of which we will find by the formula:
B 1 B 0 \u003d 0.15 x Sat + 1.5 + 0.25 x CO,
where CO is an increase in free fit to the measurement of Sb (see table),
(B 1 B 0 \u003d 0.15 x 43.5 + 1.5 + 0.25 x 0.5 \u003d 8.2 cm).
Let's draw a vertical line up and down through the point B 0 until it intersects with all horizontal lines, the intersection points will be denoted by T 0, I 0, K 0 and H 0, respectively.
Step line position
To the right of point B 0 we set aside a segment equal to the length of the segment BB 0 (we measure the length according to the drawing) and put point B 2 (B 0 B 2 = BB 0 = 12.8 cm).
Bottom Width
The width of the front half of the trousers at the bottom is found by the formula:
0.5 x Shn - k, where
k \u003d 1cm - for small ones;
k \u003d 0.5 cm - for trousers of moderate volume;
k \u003d 0 - for bulky loose trousers.
We will put the resulting value to the right and left of the point H 0 and mark the points H 1 and H 2
(H 1 H 0 \u003d H 0 H 2 \u003d 0.5 x 16 - 1 \u003d 7 cm).
Width at knee level
If the width at the level of the knee is known, then its value is laid off on both sides of the point K 0. If the width of the trousers at the knee level is unknown, then we will determine the width of the front half at this level using graphical constructions:
First, connect the points B and H 1 with a straight line. This line will intersect the knee line at a point that we will denote K 11.
From this point, we set aside to the right or to the left the segment K 11 K 1, the value of which depends on the desired model of trousers:
K 11 K 1 \u003d 1-1.5 cm to the right - for trousers of small and moderate volume along the entire length;
K 11 K 1 \u003d 0-1 cm to the right - for trousers that are loose in the middle part, without filling from the side in the knee area;
K 11 K 1 \u003d 0.5-2 cm to the left - for trousers that are loose in the middle part, when filled from the outside below the hips.
In our example, we chose a trouser style with a tight fit, so we will set aside 1.5 cm to the right of the K 11 point and put the K 1 point (be careful and choose the length of the segment required for your style of trousers).
We connect the point K 1 with the points B and H 1 with straight lines.
We measure the length of the segment K 1 K 0 and put this value to the right of the point K 0, we get the point K 2 (K 0 K 2 \u003d K 1 K 0).
step line
Connect point K 2 with straight lines to points B 2 and H 2. In this case, the line K 2 B 2 will cut the line of sitting at a point, which we will denote I 2.
From the point I 2 we set aside a distance equal to 1/3 of the segment I 2 K 2. From the obtained point to the left, we set aside a deflection equal to 0.5-1.5 cm - the greater the difference between the width at the level of the hips and the knee, the greater the deflection. Connect the points I 2 and K 2 with a smooth concave line.
Waist level in front
Determine the level of the waist in front by the formula:
T 1 T 10 \u003d Dsb - Dsp,
with a positive result, this value is postponed down from the point T 1;
with a negative - up from the point T 1 and mark the point T 10
(T 1 T 10 \u003d 106 - 103.5 \u003d 2.5 cm).
For figures with a protruding belly, as well as for trousers with a front tuck, it is necessary to build a withdrawal of the middle front line from the point T 10 to the left horizontally by 0.5-1 cm, we mark the resulting point as T 11 (T 10 T 11 \u003d 1 cm).
middle line
Let's construct the bisector of the angle with the vertex at the point I 1. On this bisector we construct an auxiliary point M, which is determined by the style of the trousers:
I 1 M = 2.5 cm - for tight trousers;
I 1 M \u003d 3 cm - for loose-fit trousers.
(In our example, we use the value I 1 M = 2.5 cm).
Points T 10 (or T 11), B 1, M and I 2 are connected by a smooth line.
Lateral line
The position of the side line at the waist level depends on the style of the trousers, depending on this, we select the required value, which we set aside to the right of the T point, we denote the resulting point as T 2:
TT 2 \u003d 0-1 cm - with a uniform distribution of folds throughout the part from the side to the middle seam;
TT 2 = 1-2 cm - with the distribution of folds closer to the middle of the part.
Connect point T 2 with a straight line to point T 10 (or T 11), and a smooth curved line to point B.
bottom line
Up from the point H 0, set aside the amount of deflection and set the point H 10:
H 0 H 10 \u003d 0.5 cm - for wide trousers;
H 0 H 10 \u003d 0.7 cm - for tight trousers.
Connect the point H 10 with straight lines to the points H 1 and H 2.
For checkered, striped and unruly fabrics, the bottom line is left horizontal when ironing.
The total amount of tucks on the front half
The sum of the tucks of the front half is found by the formula:
S \u003d T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO) - k,
where CO is an increase in free fit to measure St (see table), and where k \u003d 0.5-1.5 cm is the fit at the waist.
1) If the total amount of darts of the front half turned out to be no more than 3 cm, then we design one tuck on the axis line, setting aside half of the result obtained along the waist line from the point of intersection with the axis line in each direction.
The length of the tuck is 8-13 cm, where longer lengths are taken with a flat stomach, and smaller ones with a protruding one.
2) If the total amount of tucks of the front half turned out to be more than 3 cm, then we design the second tuck, distributing the result equally among both tucks. We design the second tuck symmetrically to the axis lines at a distance of 3-4 cm from the left side of the first tuck. The length of the second tuck is also 8-13cm.
For voluminous trousers in the upper part, the total amount of darts on the front half is determined by the formula:
S \u003d T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO),
i.e., excluding fit at the waist.
This completes the construction of the front half of the trousers.
Let's move on to building the back half of the trousers
The drawing of the back half of the trousers usually continues to be built on the grid of the drawing of the front half. If it is difficult for you to draw a pattern on top of another, then on a blank sheet of paper you need to re-build the drawing grid, i.e. draw a vertical segment equal to the measure of the length of the product, build lines for the waist, hips, seat, knee and bottom and draw an center line along the same calculations that we did for the front half of the trousers.
Now let's do the calculations
Find the width of the back trousers without crotch:
Shzp \u003d (Sat + CO) - BB 1,
where CO is an increase in free fit to the measure of Sb (see table)
Wzp \u003d (43.5 + 0.5) - 21 \u003d 23 cm.
Overall stride width for the front and back halves of the trousers we find by the formula:
Shshaga \u003d 0.4 x (Sat + CO) - k,
where CO is the increase in free fit to the measurement of Sb (see table), and where
k \u003d 1cm - for trousers of moderate and large volumes along the hips;
k \u003d 2cm - for trousers of small volumes along the hips.
Step \u003d 0.4 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 2 \u003d 15.6 cm.
Calculate the step width of the back half at hip level:
Shshaga zp \u003d Shshaga - B 1 B 2,
where B 1 B 2 is the step width of the front half, the value of which is measured according to the drawing.
Step zp \u003d 15.6 - 4.6 \u003d 11cm.
Step line position
From point B 0 to the right, we set aside the segment B 0 B 4, the dyne of which we find by the formula:
B 0 B 4 \u003d (Shzp + Shshaga zp) / 2 + 0.5
(B 0 B 4 \u003d (23 + 11) / 2 + 0.5 \u003d 17.5 cm).
To the left of point B 4, set aside a segment equal to the width of the step of the back half and put point B 3:
B 4 B 3 \u003d Sh step sn,
(B 4 B 3 = 11cm).
Through point B 3 we will draw a vertical to the intersection with the waist line, we will denote the intersection point as T 3.
Center line retraction
To the left of the point T 3 we set aside the segment T 3 T 31, which we find by the formula:
T 3 T 31 \u003d 0.1 x Sat - k, where
k \u003d 1-1.5 cm - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k = 2-3 cm - for voluminous trousers.
(T 3 T 31 \u003d 0.1 x 43.5 - 1 \u003d 3.4 cm).
Connect points B 3 and T 31 with a straight line, continuing it both up and down.
On this line upwards from point B 3 we set aside the segment B 3 B 31, which determines the balance of the trousers, we will calculate its value by the formula:
B 3 B 31 \u003d 0.05 x Sat - k, where
k \u003d 0 - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k \u003d 0.5-2 cm - for voluminous trousers.
(B 3 B 31 \u003d 0.05 x 43.5 - 0 \u003d 2.2 cm).
On the same line upward from point B 31, we set aside the segment B 31 T 32:
B 31 T 32 \u003d B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) + (Dsz - Dsp),
where the value of the segment B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) is taken from the drawing of the front half of the trousers
(B 31 T 32 = 16.8 + (105.5 - 103.5) = 18.8 cm).
Hip Width
From point B 31 we detect an arc, the radius of which is equal to the width of the back half along the line of the hips, until it intersects with the continuation of the line of the hips; we denote the intersection point B 5 (B 31 B 5 \u003d Wzp \u003d 23cm).
sideline position
From point T 32 we will detect an arc with a radius equal to the segment B 31 B 5, to the intersection with the continuation of the waist line, we will call the intersection point T 4 (T 32 T 4 = B 31 B 5).
To the right of the point T 4 horizontally, we set aside the segment T 4 T 41 - the solution of the side tuck, the value of which depends on the style of the trousers:
T 4 T 41 \u003d TT 2 (from the drawing of the front half) - for low-volume trousers;
T 4 T 41 \u003d 3-4 cm - for trousers of moderate and large volumes, where a large value is for figures with a convex side.
In our example, T 4 T 41 \u003d TT 2 \u003d 1 cm.
Connect straight lines point T 41 with points B 5 and T 32.
Rear tuck solution
We find the tuck solution by the formula:
S \u003d T 41 T 32 - 0.5 X (St + CO) - k,
where CO is an increase in free fit to measure St (see table), and where k \u003d 0.5-1 cm is the fit at the waist.
1) If the size of the opening of the back tuck turned out to be less than 5 cm, then we design one tuck. The position of the axis of the rear tuck is found by the formula:
T 32 T 5 \u003d 0.4 x B 31 B 5.
We postpone the result obtained along the waistline to the left of the point T 32 and put the point T 5
(T 32 T 5 \u003d 0.4 x 23 \u003d 9.2).
The axis of the back tuck is located perpendicular to the waist line, so we will build a perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41 at the point T 5. From the point T 5 to the right and to the left along the waist line, set aside half the solution of the back tuck. The length of the tuck is 9-13cm.
2) If the size of the opening of the back tuck turned out to be more than 5 cm, then first in exactly the same way we design a tuck with a solution of 5 cm, and by the remaining value we increase the removal of the middle back line along the waist. That is, we set aside the remaining value along the waist line to the left of the T 32 point.
We connect the resulting point with a straight line with point B 31.
3) If the size of the tuck solution turned out to be significantly more than 5 cm, then we increase the withdrawal of the middle back line to 2 cm, and distribute the rest equally into two tucks. The position of the first tuck is found by the same formula:
T 32 T 5 \u003d 0.4 x B 31 B 5;
we place the second groove 3-4 cm from the left side of the first groove. The axes of both tucks are drawn perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41; darts length - 9-13 cm.
Bottom Width
Find the width of the back half at the bottom using the formula:
0.5 x Shn + 0.2cm ,
the resulting value will be set aside on both sides of the point H 0 and put the points H 3 and H 4
(H 0 H 3 \u003d H 0 H 4 \u003d 0.5 x 16 + 0.2 \u003d 8.2 cm).
Width at knee level
Calculate the width of the back half at the level of the knee using the formula:
K 3 K 0 = K 0 K 4 = K 1 K 0 + k,
where K 1 K 0 - we take from the drawing of the front half, and where
k \u003d 2 cm - for straight, slightly tapered trousers;
k \u003d 2.5 cm - for trousers that are very narrowed down.
The resulting result will be set aside on both sides of the point K 0 and mark the points K 3 and K 4.
Lateral line
Let's draw a side line, connecting the points T 41, B 5, K 3 and H 3. From the waist line to the hip line, we draw the side line with a smooth convex line. The side line of the back half must be leveled along the side line of the front half:
T 41 B 5 K 3 N 3 \u003d T 2 BK 1 N 1.
step line
Connect point K 4 with straight lines to points B 4 and H 4. In this case, the segment B 4 K 4 will cross the seat line at a point that we will denote I 4.
middle line
To the left of the point I 41 we draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the line B 3 T 32, the point of intersection will be denoted by I 3.
Let's build the bisector of the angle with the vertex at the point R 3 and on this bisector we set aside the segment R 3 M 1, the length of which depends on the style of the trousers:
I 3 M 1 \u003d 1.5 cm - for trousers with a slight increase in seat depth;
I 3 M 1 \u003d 2.5 cm - for trousers with a deeper seat line.
(In our example, I 3 M 1 \u003d 1.5 cm).
We draw the middle line with a smooth straight line, connecting the points T 32, B 31, M 1 and I 41.
Skinny pants have remained relevant for many years, and are unlikely to leave fashionable Olympus in the near future. The details change a little, but the tapered cut itself remains unchanged. So, high- and medium-rise trousers, shortened at the bottom, are popular today. The pattern of just such trousers is presented in today's article. In addition, I offer 2 options for stylish skinny trousers by Marlene Mukai. So, first things first.
Pattern of cropped trousers, tapered down
Any trouser fabric is suitable for tailoring trousers. If you want the pants to be elastic, then it is better to give preference to fabrics with the addition of elastane. Otherwise, you can choose fabrics that hold their shape well. Since cropped jeans are in fashion now, you can choose thin denim, or cotton fabrics dyed to look like jeans.
At the end of the sewing description, you can download patterns of cropped trousers for sizes 40,44,48.
cutting
- 1. The front half of the trousers - 2 children. (bottom hem allowance not less than 4.5 cm)
- 2. The back half of the trousers - 2 children. (bottom hem allowance not less than 4.5 cm)
- 3. Front of the belt - 4 parts
- 4. The back of the belt - 2 parts with a fold
- Pocket lining - 2 parts (copy from part 1) Rectangle 6 cm wide and equal to the length of the zipper, plus allowances (for fastening)
- 5 strips 2.5 x 5 cm plus allowances (for belt loops)
Cut out from the lining material:
- Pocket lining - 2 parts
Sewing cropped trousers
Duplicate two parts of the front part of the belt and one part of the back part with adhesive cushioning material.
On each front half of the trousers, make a welt pocket with a leaflet with set-in ends in waist products: pin one part of the lining from the inside along the pocket marking, inside out down. Cut out a leaflet in the longitudinal direction of the warp threads from the base material - a strip, the width of which is equal to twice the width of the leaflet plus seam allowances on both sides, and the length is equal to the length of the entrance to the pocket plus seam allowances on both sides. Duplicate half the width of the leaflet with adhesive cushioning material. Iron the leaf along the center inside out. Sew the leaflet on the main part according to the marking with the front sides, directing the leaflet with a fold towards the middle of the main part (or down if the leaflet is horizontal).
On the other side of the pocket marking, sew a gap (cut out from the main material in the form of a strip with a length equal to the length of the leaflet and a width of about 5-6 cm) of the faces. side down so that the area between the lines is equal to the width of the leaflet in finished form (= length from the fold of the leaflet to the stitching line).
Cut between the lines of the main part and the lining with diagonal notches to the ends of the lines, bend the leaf forward (or up - according to the model), the gap is inside out. Sew the seam edges of the stitches with a zigzag stitch. leaflets on the lining of the pocket. According to the model - stitch the seam to the edge of the stitch. leaflets.
Over the valance, lay the 2nd part of the pocket lining. Straighten the valance and sew the inside of the valance onto the pocket lining with a zigzag stitch. Secure the ends of the pocket by sewing along the base of the corners of the seam allowances. Stitch the edges of the pocket lining. Lay a through line in the seam of attaching the leaves and along the seams at the ends of the pocket from the front or wrong side. According to the model - lay the line to the edge along the seam of the stitches. leaflets and at the ends of the pocket. Baste the pocket lining to the cuts of the main piece.
Treat the tuck on each back half of the trousers.
Stitch the sides of the trousers from the top to the bottom, leaving open areas for the slots on the side of the trousers and on the side of the hem allowances (3.5 cm from the bottom line on both sides).
Sew the crotch and mid-section of the trousers (leave the zipper section unstitched in the front middle seam).
Treat the fastener with a zipper and a slope.
Process the stitched belt with loops.
Bend the bottom hem to the faces. side and grind the side cuts of the slot. Bend the hem of the bottom of the cropped trousers to the wrong side, straighten the turned edges; iron and hand-hem the bottom hem with blind stitches.
At the ends of the belt, sew a loop; sew on a button.
Iron the front and back folds of the trousers (“arrows”).
Download patterns of cropped trousers, tapered down:
Patterns of skinny women's trousers from Marlene Mukay
And two more models of skinny women's trousers from Marlene Mukay. The sizes are in Portuguese, the table is attached below.
Size 36 Size 38 Size 40 Size 42
Size 44 Size 46 Size 48 Size 50
Size 52 Size 54 Size 56
Today, trousers are a universal type of clothing that is in the wardrobe not only for men, but also for women. Depending on the model and cut, they can be worn to work, to the gym, to a nightclub, to be at home or used as a beautiful outfit for some holiday. If you decide to sew trousers yourself, then remember one rule - the pattern of women's trousers must be correct, then how to make a pattern of women's trousers is always of interest to needlewomen. Only in this case, your product will be successful and beautiful. Do not be afraid to fantasize and experiment, only in this case you will be able to choose and sew for yourself just such trousers that will hide all your flaws, and vice versa, emphasize the dignity of your figure.
Of course, now you can buy any pants. But will the models be original? Most likely no. But by sewing it yourself, you make an individual cut that will suit only you. You can also decorate the pants the way you want. So, let's figure out how to make a pattern of women's trousers. Let's get started.
But before proceeding with the analysis of the question of how to build a pattern, you need to decide on the size.
Deciding on the size
Before you start sewing, you need to find out your size, namely, take such measurements as: waist circumference (1) and hip circumference (2). So, let's look at the main indicators:
- 42 size: 1 - 66 cm, 2 - 92 cm;
- 44 size: 1 - 70 cm, 2 - 96 cm;
- 46 size: 1 - 74 cm, 2 - 100 cm;
- 48 size: 1 - 78 cm, 2 - 104 cm;
- 50 size: 1 - 82 cm, 2 - 108 cm;
- 52 size: 1 - 86 cm, 2 - 112 cm;
- 54 size: 1 - 90 cm, 2 - 116 cm;
- 56 size: 1 - 94 cm; 2 - 120 cm.
After determining the size, it is necessary to take the following measurements:
- Front length;
- Side length;
- First stride length;
- Second stride length;
- knee length;
- thigh circumference;
- seat height;
- The width of the bottom of the legs.
Main types
The correct construction of the pattern indicates how successful the sewing process will be. We bring to your attention several options for ready-made patterns, which you can easily download for free, and, already based on your measurements, modify them, sew a model of trousers that you like.
The main pattern of all trousers is the classic cut. It was by making their own changes that famous fashion designers at one time came up with other styles of trousers. So, as you already understood, we are talking about patterns of classic trousers.
Next, consider skinny pants and their patterns. This type of trousers is perfect for girls who have a model figure. But, as the designers say, it doesn't matter what parameters you have, the most important thing is how and with what you wear them.
When choosing tight trousers, it is necessary to select more voluminous sweaters for them. It can be a tunic, a sweater or a voluminous T-shirt.
Trousers breeches - a very fashionable style today. We are sure that patterns of this style will definitely come in handy for every needlewoman. It is recommended to wear such trousers with a romantic and feminine top. In no case should you wear them with sports sweaters or T-shirts. They are perfect for you if you have a model figure. In other versions of the figure, such trousers will look ridiculous.
Wide trousers with elastic. This type is suitable for almost any figure. They are not only beautiful because of their cut, but also stylish. An important aspect when choosing this type of trousers is their length. Now the floor length is in fashion, as well as the style and fit of them should be free and not hinder movement.
