History of the Coco Chanel brand. Chanel - brand history

Chanel (Shan e l) - one of the most influential French fashion houses, founded by couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel. The brand has established itself well both in the Pret-a-porter and Haute Couture areas, producing luxury goods: clothes, shoes, bags, perfumes, cosmetics, jewelry. For February, 2013 the Fashion house is a part of the Parisian Haute Couture Syndicate.

The founder of the House got the nickname "Coco" while working as a cabaret singer in France. This pseudonym became her name in the fashion industry. Chanel's vision for women's style was to replace glamorous and sexy pieces with more casual and elegant pieces. So, the couturier brought into fashion simple straight dresses without corsets with a minimum of decor, as well as women's trouser suits. The most famous product of the designer and her Fashion House today is the little black dress (“little black dress”).

According to Forbes magazine, the Chanel brand is now jointly owned by Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, who are great-grandchildren of Chanel's early (1924) partner Pierre Wertheimer.

Brand History: Era Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel, née Gabrielle Boner Chanel, was born in 1883 in the town of Saumur in the center of France. From 1985 to 1900, the girl lived in an orphanage, where her father gave her after the death of her mother. Then, until 1902, Gabrielle was brought up by nuns, who taught her how to sew. Subsequently, she worked at the Au Sans Pareil hosiery store in Moulins.

During her singing career, Gabrielle met the influential French aristocrat Etienne Balzan. It was he who helped Koko open his first store.

1909-1920: Beginnings and first recognition

In 1909, in the apartment of Étienne Balzan, Gabrielle Chanel opened a small shop that became the initial step towards one of the world's greatest fashion empires. Meeting place of the most respected representatives
the French elite, hunters for new novels, mistresses and husbands - Balzan's apartment became the ideal place to introduce into high society the new fashion for clothes that Chanel made in her small atelier. Then the first thing that brought Coco popularity and success was neat hats. They were radically different from those richly feathered models that the couturier made fun of, creating casual and minimalist headdresses for women.

At the same time, Chanel had a relationship with the Englishman Arthur Capel, a member of the Balzan men's club. He saw Coco as a promising businesswoman, and in 1910 he helped to acquire space in a house on rue Cambon in Paris. However, the house already housed a clothing store, so Chanel was not allowed to set up a dressmaking atelier there. Soon, Coco opened her first store at this place, specializing in the sale of hats.

In 1913, Chanel boutiques opened in the French cities of Deauville and Biarritz. In both stores, the designer presented her first collection of sportswear for women.

Coco simply hated the style of those ladies who came to resort towns and dressed up in ridiculous and uncomfortable things in her opinion. Therefore, the designs of wardrobe items from Chanel were simple and lacked excessive luxury.

During World War II, another Chanel store opened on the Rue Cambonne in Paris. It was located right in front of the Ritz Hotel. It sold flannel blazers, straight skirts, jackets, long jersey sweaters and nautical blouses.

Coco bought jersey fabric, first of all, because of its cheapness, because in the first years of her design career, the financial situation of the fashionista was extremely unstable. However, the soft material, which was used mainly for lining clothes, was great for Chanel's simple cuts.

In 1915, the fame of Chanel spread throughout France. Her clothes, due to their conciseness and practicality, have become incredibly popular with women. In 1915 and 1917, Harper's Bazaar noted that the name Chanel was on every woman's shopping list. The designer's boutique on the Rue Cambon at that time offered ladies simple casual ensembles "dress + coat" and black evening dresses embroidered with lace or decorated with tulle.

By the 1920s, Chanel had already gained a reputation as an extremely picky and uncompromising couturier. Following the trends of her time, she designed a dress embroidered with beads. Also, the ensemble of two or three items proposed by her became a model of female style and is still so. It was introduced as a "form for the afternoon and evening" as early as 1915.

Chanel No. 5: the creation of a legendary fragrance

In 1921, Coco Chanel introduced the first women's perfume - Chanel No. 5 perfume. The history of the creation of this perfume is closely connected with the relationship between Coco and the Great Russian Prince Dmitry Pavlovich Romanov.

Chanel and the prince met in Biarritz in 1920 and spent the next year together. It was then that Dmitry Pavlovich introduced his passion to the perfumer of the Romanov family - Ernest Bo, who, at the request of the milliner, helped her in creating her own perfume. As conceived by Coco, the fragrance was to embody the smell of a woman entirely. In addition, she wanted the composition to include more different essences, and not just one or two, as in the perfumes of those times.

Ernest Bo worked on the perfume for many months, mixing many components. At one of the meetings with Koko, he showed her several versions of the fragrances he had created. Chanel chose the fifth bottle in a row, and, in addition, Chanel's favorite number was also 5. The designer decided to dwell on this mixture of essences and called her first perfume Chanel No. 5.

The composition of the fragrance consisted of 80 ingredients, including ylang-ylang from the Comoros, orange blossom, jasmine from the fields of Grasse, May rose, sandalwood, bourbon vetiver and aldehydes - artificial components, the concentration of which in Chanel perfume was a record for those years. According to legend, when creating the fragrance, Beau accidentally overdosed on aldehydes in the fragrance, but that is why Chanel liked the smell so much. And the couturier was not mistaken in her choice, because the perfume became a hit. In addition, Chanel No. 5 to this day are timeless classics, the standard of elegance and one of the most exquisite women's fragrances according to perfumers.

Toilet perfume Chanel No. 5 based on the original was created in 1986 by the perfumer of the Fashion House Jacques Polge.

Mid to late 1920s

The founder of the successful French department stores Galeries Lafayette introduced Coco Chanel to her future partner Pierre Wertheimer. Bader himself was already a business partner of Chanel and owned 20% of the Chanel perfume label. Wertheimer became the owner of 70% of the enterprise, while Koko herself retained a modest 10%.

Coco was forced to keep her fashion business separate from her perfume business.

In 1924, Chanel introduced her first line of jewelry, consisting of two pairs of pearl earrings: black and white. In addition to her success with Haute Couture, Coco has expanded the business and diversified the brand and her own legend more expansive and multifaceted.

In 1925, under the Chanel brand, a women's cardigan was introduced, in 1926 - a little black dress and tweed, inspired by trips to Scotland. Chanel soon opened her own boutique near the Louvre.

Due to the success of the Chanel perfume line, Coco was increasingly unhappy with the fact that she had only 10 percent of the profits from her own brand of perfume. On this basis, her relationship with partners deteriorated significantly.

In an attempt to increase her percentage of the profits, Chanel hired a lawyer to renegotiate the terms of the partnership with Wertheimer, but this process ultimately came to nothing.

Chanel in the 1930s-1950s

In 1932, the premiere of the Chanel jewelry exhibition dedicated to diamonds took place. Some of the necklaces that were presented on it, again appeared before the public in 1993. Among them are the famous necklaces "Comet" and "Fountain".

With the advent of the 30s, evening dresses from Chanel acquired a more feminine style and became elongated. Dresses from the summer collections were distinguished by bright contrasting colors, and the couturier used crystal and silver straps as decor. In 1937, Chanel first developed a clothing line for petite women.

In 1940, when France fell under the control of Nazi Germany, Chanel's partner Pierre Wertheimer fled with his family to the United States. This allowed Coco to take full control of the brand's perfume production. At this time, the famous scandal occurred with the couturier, caused by her connection with the Nazi officer Hans Günther von Dinklage. Chanel was accused of complicity with the Nazis, and immediately after the liberation of France was taken into custody. Winston Churchill played an important role in the release of Koko from custody. However, these events left a heavy imprint on the personality and reputation of the designer, which forced Chanel to flee to Switzerland at the end of the Second World War.

After the war, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris and naturally intended to regain control of the holdings owned by his family. To spite him, Coco Chanel created her own collection of perfumes and put them on sale. Wertheimer decided to resolve the conflict without legal proceedings. He settled with Koko, paying her $400,000, a 2 percent royalty, and giving her limited rights to sell her own perfume in Switzerland. Having entered into an agreement, Chanel stopped creating perfumes and sold the partner the full right to produce them under the name Chanel, for which she began to receive a monthly stipend from Wertheimer. With this scholarship, Koko and her German beau could support themselves.

Return of Chanel: 1950s-1970s

Chanel returned to Paris in 1953. Then the fashionable ball was already ruled by Christian Dior and his feminine New Look. Koko had to accept that fashion and the fashion market had changed, and she had to adapt to this evolution. Chanel needed to return to the big stage and make herself known in areas such as Haute Couture, Pret-a-Porter, jewelry and perfumery.

The couturier swallowed her pride and turned to old partner Pierre Wertheimer for help, who could provide legal and financial support for Coco herself and her brand. At the same time, he was busy trying to get all the rights to release products under the name Chanel. However, having decided to resume cooperation with Chanel, Wertheimer did not lose. The revived union again paid off with a whole list of benefits: the label regained the title of one of the most prestigious in the fashion market, the unconditional style of Chanel was accepted with a bang.

In addition, in 1953, Coco collaborated with Robert Goossens, a well-known jeweler of the time, who developed an explosive line of jewelry that reflected Chanel's iconic style. The release of branded tweed suits was also resumed, consisting of a jacket and a skirt, decorated with threads of black and white pearls.

In February 1955, quilted leather Chanel bags were introduced on metal chains in gold or silver. The date of their release - 2/55 - became the internal name of the line, which became legendary. Like the brand's tweed suits, these bags have not gone out of fashion.

Throughout the fifties of the twentieth century, the great taste of Coco Chanel continued to pave the way for her success and worldwide recognition in the fashion field. Another breakthrough was Chanel's first men's fragrance, Pour Monsieur. It was also released under the name "A Gentleman's Cologne" ("Gentleman's Fragrance") and became number one among all men's fragrances.
Chanel's spring 1957 collection won the Fashion Oscars at the Fashion Awards in Dallas. In the meantime, Wertheimer bought from Bader his 20% stake in Chanel perfumes, raising his family's total stake to 90%. In 1965, the son of Pierre Wertheimer, Jacques, began to manage this share.

Death of a legend: Chanel after Coco

On January 10, 1971, Gabrielle Coco Chanel died at the age of 87. Until her death, she continued to develop her own brand collections and collaborate with other companies. For example, from 1966 to 1969, the couturier designed uniforms for the flight attendants of one of the most luxurious and prestigious Greek airlines - Olympic Airways. Before Chanel, only Pierre Cardin had received such an honor.

After Coco's death, Yvonne Dudel, Jean Quezubon and Philippe Guibourge were appointed Chanel leaders. After some time, the entire Fashion House was bought by Jacques Wertheimer. However, critics stated that during the entire time he was in charge of the label, he never paid enough attention to him, as he was more passionate about horse breeding.

In 1978, the Chanel brand launched Cristalle eau de toilette, created during Coco's lifetime. The same year was marked by the launch of a ready-to-wear line and the distribution of Chanel accessories around the world.

Chanel under Kard Lagerfeld

In the 1980s, more than 40 brand boutiques were opened around the world. By the end of the decade, these boutiques were selling luxury items such as $200 an ounce perfume, $225 ballerinas, $11,000 dresses, and $2,000 leather handbags. The rights to Chanel perfume belonged only to the brand itself and were not shared by other distributors.

In 1983, the German designer Karl Lagerfeld was appointed to the position of chief designer of the Chanel Fashion House. He became responsible for the design of all collections, while other designers were engaged in preserving the classic style of the House and maintaining its legend. Lagerfeld modified the brand's style, moving away from the old Chanel lines for new short strokes and exciting designs.

The release in 1984 of the new fragrance Coco by Chanel, named after the founder of the Fashion House, supported the success of the brand in the perfume market. Chanel marketers say:

“We release new fragrances every 10 years, and not every three minutes, as other manufacturers do. We do not mislead customers and do not confuse them, putting them before a choice. They know what to expect from Chanel. That is why they come back to us again and again, at any age.”

In 1987, the House of Chanel introduced the first Premiere watch.

At the end of the decade, the company's offices moved to New York.

1990s

In the 1990s, the company became a leader in fragrances and marketing. Huge investments allowed to significantly increase income. The success brought the Wertheimer family about $5 billion in profits. The brand's product lines, such as watches (which cost an average of $7,000 per item), high-quality shoes, jewelry, cosmetics and accessories, were significantly expanded.

In 1996, the women's fragrance Chanel Allure was released, as a result of the success of which in 1998 the brand presented its masculine version - Allure Homme. Even greater success awaited the company after the purchase of Eres - a swimwear and beachwear label. In 1999, the Chanel skin care line was launched, and then the first cruise clothing collection was introduced. In the same year, under a license agreement with Luxottica, the brand introduced the Chanel line of sunglasses and frames.

Chanel from the 2000s to the present day

During these years, the chairman of Chanel was Alain Wertheimer. Francoise Montaigne was the CEO and President of the Fashion House.
In 2000, the first unisex watch from Chanel, the J12, was launched.

In 2001, the brand presented a small line of men's clothing, which became part of one of the shows and was sold in the brand's flagship boutiques.

Chance was released in 2002. The house of Chanel also founded the Pataffection company, which included five multi-purpose ateliers:

Desrue, which makes jewelry;
Lemarie, working with feathers and camellias;
Lesage, engaged in embroidery;
Massaro, shoe shop;
Michel, which makes women's hats.

Pret-a-Porter collections were developed by the chief designer of the House - Karl Lagerfeld. They are traditionally presented every December.

In 2002, Chanel continued to increase its sales in the US. So, by December, there were already 25 brand boutiques in the United States. In the same year, there was a rumor about a possible merger between Chanel and one of the largest luxury goods manufacturers, Hermes. These data gave rise to many concerns, because such a merger could give rise to the largest holding - a rival to the famous Moet Hennesy Louis Vuitton. Perhaps that is why the merger was never destined to take place.

To meet the wishes of younger buyers, in 2003, Chanel presents the Coco Mademoiselle fragrance and the youth clothing line B-C Wear. In the same year, Chanel Haute Couture is experiencing such a surge in popularity that the brand opens a second boutique on Cambon Street in Paris. Looking to expand into the Asian market, Chanel is opening a 2,400-square-meter boutique in Hong Kong and is also building a $50 million boutique in Ginza, Tokyo, Japan.

Influence on world fashion

Coco Chanel revolutionized the fashion world by introducing loose suits and long, straight dresses to replace traditional corsets. The couturier introduced many elements of classic men's fashion into women's clothing. Her simple lines led to the popularity of the boyish build of the female body, the rejection of glamor and excessive luxury in a suit. Coco Chanel clothes also gave women more comfort in everyday life, allowing them to be more active.

Coco made jersey fabric fashionable, and her signature tweed suits became a symbol of fashion in the 20s and timeless classics in the women's wardrobe.

Quilted chain bags, boxy jackets and pearl necklaces are also some of the iconic luxury items from Chanel.

Chanel logo and fakes

The Chanel trademark consists of two letters "C" intertwined with each other, one of which is depicted in its original form, and the other is its mirror image. This logo was first introduced in 1925 on a bottle of Chanel No. 5 fragrance. Many believe that the symbol of good luck, depicted by Vrubel, served as its prototype. According to another version, the two letters "C" are the initials of Coco Chanel.

The company is currently fighting the illegal use of its logo on counterfeit products. According to Chanel representatives, the largest number of fake handbags are produced in China and Vietnam. Since 1990, all genuine Chanel bags have been serialized.

Chanel stores around the world

Today, there are about 310 Chanel brand boutiques in the world: 94 of them are located in Asia, 70 are located in Europe, 10 are in the Middle East, 128 are in North America, 2 are in South America, 6 are in Oceania.

Chanel stores can be located in prestigious areas and shopping centers, department stores, airport buildings.

Chanel is one of the most famous fashion houses in France, an internationally recognized brand of luxury designer products. Under the Chanel trademark, clothes, shoes, bags, perfumes, cosmetics, watches, and jewelry are produced today.

Chanel brand products have traditionally been used by the first ladies of different countries, including the spouses of US presidents Jacqueline Kennedy and Nancy Reagan, as well as Margaret Thatcher, Diana Spencer, Princess Charlotte Casiraghi of Monaco.

Popular perfumery Chanel

Chanel #5
Coco Mademoiselle
Chance Eau Tendre
Allure
Chance
Chance Eau Fraiche
Allure Homme
Allure Homme Sport
Egoiste Platinum
Blue De Chanel

Under the Chanel brand, the world's first synthesized perfumes appeared, which combined the aromas of rose and jasmine, enhanced by aldehydes. For her first perfume, Coco Chanel developed a bottle design - a strict and simple square bottle made of crystal, unchanged to this day.

The very persistent specific smell of Chanel perfumes cannot be confused with anything else. They always have notes of rose and jasmine. Perfume ingredients are grown on Chanel's own plantations in Provence.

Popular cosmetics Chanel

Soleil Tan de Chanel - bronzing powder
Lumiere Sculptee de Chanel Highlighter Powder - powder with reflective particles
Poudre Universelle Libre - loose powder
Ecriture de Chanel - liquid eyeliner
Rouge Allur Fatale - red lipstick

Since 1929, under the Chanel brand, face and body care products have been released. Fashion house Chanel was the first to offer decorative cosmetics, the color scheme of which corresponded to the new collection of clothes presented at the seasonal show.

Today, Chanel owns several scientific institutes that lead programs to study the valuable properties of plants, study the age-related needs of the skin, and introduce new cosmetic products.

Faces of the Chanel brand

Chanel was advertised by actresses Catherine Deneuve, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Tautou, Vanessa Paradis, Carole Bouquet, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman, Keira Knightley. In 2012, Emma Watson became the face of the company. Actor Brad Pitt became the first man to appear in an ad for Chanel No. 5 perfume.

Chanel owners

From 1909 to 1971 - Gabrielle Bonheer Chanel.

From 1971 to 1976 - Yvonne Dudel, Jean Casaubon and Philippe Guibourge.

Since 1977 - the Wertheimer family.

Chanel manufacturers

Chanel cosmetics and perfumery products are produced at the company's own factories located near the city of Grasse (France) near Paris. It also has its own plantations of flowers and herbs, the extracts of which are used to make Chanel cosmetics, as well as three research institutes dealing with the use of Chanel cosmetics and perfumes.

Chanel discoveries

"abstract perfume" that does not smell like a specific flower, does not imitate nature, but has its own unique smell (Chanel No. 5, 1921)
use in perfumery of aldehydes - synthetic aromatic compounds (Chanel No. 5)

Chanel logo and brand name

The Chanel logo in the form of two crossed horseshoes first appeared in 1925 on a bottle of Chanel No. 5 perfume. According to one version, these horseshoes represent symbols of success and good luck. According to another, most likely, the founder of the brand, Gabrielle Chanel, wove her initials in this logo - Soso Chanel.

Chanel's symbol is the white camellia, Mademoiselle Chanel's favorite flower, which she used to adorn her outfits. Camellia could be made of satin, tweed, fur, plastic or cardboard.

Founding and triumph of Chanel

The history of the Chanel brand begins its countdown from the moment the Coco Chanel hat salon was opened in Paris in 1909, and in 1910, the first Chanel Modes store appeared at 21 Cambon Street in Paris. Already in 1913, Chanel opened a tailoring workshop and a Soso Chanel store in Deauville, where she offered jersey clothing models to a wide range of consumers.

Coco Chanel made a revolution in fashion, offering women new principles for forming a wardrobe. Thanks to Chanel, ladies got rid of corsets and heavy constricting jackets, but began to wear trousers and knitted suits, shirt dresses and comfortable soft jackets. Chanel introduced tan skin and sunglasses, short haircuts and shoulder bags, little black dresses and patch pocket jackets, tweed suits and imitation pearls.

In 1915, Chanel opens a fashion house in Biarritz, and in 1919 - in Paris.

1921 went down in fashion history with the introduction of Chanel No. 5 on the perfume market, which immediately and forever won the championship among synthesized perfumes. And in 1924, the Parfums Chanel company appears.

In 1926, the world saw the legendary little black dress, as well as a waterproof raincoat and a blazer with gilded buttons from Chanel.

In 1929, the first Chanel boutique opened in Paris, where you could buy perfumes, accessories, shawls and handbags.

And since 1936, a tweed suit appeared in the shops of Mademoiselle Chanel, which turned into a kind of visiting card of the Chanel style.

During the Second World War, Coco Chanel ceased operations and closed all her shops and workshops, although she remained in Paris. Only in 1955 did Chanel Fashion House suits reappear at the spring/summer show, which instantly became a sensation. The new concept of Chanel style is distinguished by recognizable costume details - piping, metal buttons, a long pearl necklace, a white camellia flower.

Following the suit, Coco Chanel offered women a small 2/55 quilted bag with a long gold chain over her shoulder and white shoes with a black toe, which perfectly complemented any wardrobe and completed a stylish look. The men received Pour Monsieur.

In the 50s and 60s, the Chanel Fashion House collaborated closely with Hollywood. Clothing, perfumes, accessories from Coco Chanel are in great demand among movie stars. Chanel places their photos in the press, which makes the Chanel brand famous as a model of luxury, elegance and style.

In 1957, in Dallas, Coco Chanel received the highest award in the fashion industry - the "Oscar of Fashion" in the nomination "Best Designer".

Chanel - a new round in the development of world fashion

After the death of Gabrielle Chanel in 1971, the Chanel fashion house passes into the hands of Yvonne Dudel, Jean Casaubon and Philippe Guibourge, and later the company was bought by Jacques Wertheimer, the heir to one of Chanel's early partners, Pierre Wertheimer. Philippe Guibourge, who launched the first pret-a-porter collection from Chanel in 1978, was first involved in Chanel collections. And since 1983, Karl Lagerfeld has become the designer of the Chanel Fashion House.

In 1987, the production of Chanel watches was launched, since 1999, in cooperation with Luxottica, the production of glasses with frames from Chanel began.

A new line of Precision skin care products is launched. In 2002, the Paraffection company was created under the Chanel brand, uniting several workshops: Lemariе (feathers for haute couture collections), Desrues (accessories, bijouterie), Lesage (lace), Massaro (shoes) and Michel (hats), Goossens (jewelry) and Guillet (fabric flowers, embroidery).

Chanel expands the market

Today, the Chanel brand specializes in the production of luxury goods - clothing, cosmetics, perfumes, watches, glasses, jewelry. Chanel owns about 150 boutiques in different countries of the world, in addition, Chanel products can be purchased at the best trading houses - such as Galerie Lafayette, Harrods, Saks, Bon Marche.

(real name Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel) opened its first store in the apartment of Etienne Balsan, and thus began the history of one of the most legendary and most successful fashion houses. It's not just a brand, it's a whole world whose name Chanel (Chanel).

Gabrielle Chanel's products are incredibly popular with French fashionistas of that time, elegant and simple clothes from Coco fell in love with all of Paris. Developing their success, in 1913 Chanel opened her boutique in Deauville, and in 1914 the First World War began. However, no matter how curious it is, military operations only benefited Coco's business: most of France was occupied and the rich, fearing for their lives, fled away from Paris. Many with their wives left for Deauville. Needless to say, avid fashionistas liked the outfits from Chanel.

In 1915, the Chanel fashion house enjoys an unconditional reputation and great fame, inspired by success, Gabrielle opens another boutique, now in Biarritz. And in 1918, the legendary boutique opens in Paris at 31 Rue Cambon.

Trends in no time from Chanel

The year 1921 was marked by the release of the first perfume from Chanel, the famous ones got their name by chance: Coco ordered a perfume from the Russian emigrant perfumer Ernest Bo, who created several samples, and numbered them from 1 to 5 and from 20 to 24, offered Coco for testing, she chose the bottle at number 5. It is noteworthy that even in those years, the couturier, albeit unconsciously, used marketing tricks. For example, when Chanel No. 5 was ready, Gabrielle did not immediately put them on sale, but presented several copies to her friends, who, having tried it, naturally blabbed about the perfume to their friends, and by the time sales began, huge queues lined up in Chanel stores.

In 1922, another fragrance from Chanel came out, now this Chanel No. 22, named after the year of its creation, it, like No. 5, is the true embodiment of femininity, in its unique combination of sophistication and courage.

In 1924 Coco establishes a company Societe des Parfums Chanel, which deals exclusively with perfumes and cosmetics, soon presented the first collection of makeup products. Gabriel also collaborates with the Diaghilev troupe: she creates costumes for the Blue Express ballet. In the same year, Chanel travels through Scotland and discovers tweed, which inspires her to create famous women's suits.

And in 1926, Chanel creates, perhaps, his most famous creation - a little black dress. In the same year, American Vogue ranks the dress as a timeless classic. And still, after so many years, a little black dress must be in the wardrobe of every self-respecting lady.

In 1931, Coco Chanel, by invitation Samuel Goldwyn goes to Hollywood, to work on the style of the most famous movie stars. Chanel becomes world famous.

But here the Second World War intervenes in the affairs of the couturier. This time, Coco closed all the boutiques and the fashion house and left Paris for 14 years, after the war, due to lack of money, Chanel sells full rights to the production of perfumes under the name Chanel to Pierre Wertheimer.

In 1954, 71-year-old Chanel, dissatisfied with the state of modern fashion, reopens the Fashion House.

And in February 1955, she appears in public with a small rectangular bag on a long chain. Thus was born another legend from Chanel timeless - handbag 2.55.

The fashion house regains its former glory: the brightest celebrities of that time, including Elizabeth Taylor, Jane Fonda, Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace KellyJeanne MoreauCeline Dion and Carole Bouquet appear in the latest from Chanel.

On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died of a heart attack at the Ritz. Chanel's leaders were Yvonne Dudel, Jean Quezubon and Philippe Guibourg. After some time, the entire Fashion House was bought out Jacques Wertheimer.

Chanel S.A. is a French clothing and luxury goods company founded by fashion designer Coco Chanel in Paris at the beginning of the 20th century.

Coco Chanel, born Gabrielle Boner Chanel, was born in 1883 in the town of Saumur in central France. From 1985 to 1900, the girl lived in an orphanage, where her father gave her after the death of her mother. Then, until 1902, Gabrielle was brought up by nuns, who taught her how to sew. Subsequently, she worked at the Au Sans Pareil hosiery store in Moulins.

During her singing career, Gabrielle met the influential French aristocrat Etienne Balzan. It was he who helped Koko open his first store.

In 1909, in the apartment of Étienne Balzan, Gabrielle Chanel opened a small shop that became the initial step towards one of the world's greatest fashion empires. The meeting place of the most respected representatives of the French elite, hunters for new novels, mistresses and husbands - Balzan's apartment became the ideal place to introduce into high society the new fashion for clothes that Chanel made in her small atelier. Then the first thing that brought Coco popularity and success was neat hats. They were radically different from those richly feathered models that the couturier made fun of, creating casual and minimalist headdresses for women.

In 1913, Chanel boutiques opened in the French cities of Deauville and Biarritz. In both stores, the designer presented her first collection of sportswear for women.

Coco was forced to keep her fashion business separate from her perfume business.

In 1925, under the Chanel brand, a women's cardigan was introduced, in 1926 - a little black dress and tweed, inspired by trips to Scotland. Chanel soon opened her own boutique near the Louvre.

In an attempt to increase her percentage of the profits, Chanel hired a lawyer to renegotiate the terms of the partnership with Wertheimer, but this process ultimately came to nothing.

In addition, in 1953, Coco collaborated with Robert Goossens, a well-known jeweler of the time, who developed an explosive line of jewelry that reflected Chanel's iconic style. The release of branded tweed suits, consisting of a jacket and a skirt, decorated with threads of black and white pearls, was also resumed.

In February 1955, quilted leather Chanel bags were introduced on metal chains in gold or silver. Their release date - 2/55 - became the internal name of the line, which became legendary. Like the brand's tweed suits, these bags have not gone out of fashion.

Chanel's spring 1957 collection won the Fashion Oscars at the Fashion Awards in Dallas. In the meantime, Wertheimer bought from Bader his 20% stake in Chanel perfumes, raising his family's total stake to 90%. In 1965, the son of Pierre Wertheimer, Jacques, began to manage this share.

On January 10, 1971, Gabrielle Coco Chanel died at the age of 87. Until her death, she continued to develop her own brand collections and collaborate with other companies. For example, from 1966 to 1969, the couturier designed uniforms for the flight attendants of one of the most luxurious and prestigious Greek airlines, Olympic Airways. Before Chanel, only Pierre Cardin had received such an honor.

In 1987, the House of Chanel introduced the first Premiere watch.

At the end of the decade, the company's offices moved to New York.

In 1996, the women's fragrance Chanel Allure was released, as a result of the success of which in 1998 the brand presented its masculine version - Allure Homme. Even greater success awaited the company after the purchase of Eres, a swimwear and beachwear label. In 1999, the Chanel skin care line was launched, and then the first cruise clothing collection was introduced. In the same year, under a license agreement with Luxottica, the brand introduced the Chanel line of sunglasses and frames.

In 2000, the first unisex watch from Chanel, the J12, was launched.

In 2001, the brand presented a small line of men's clothing, which became part of one of the shows and was sold in the brand's flagship boutiques.

Chance was released in 2002. The house of Chanel also founded the Pataffection company, which included five multi-purpose ateliers:
- Desrue, which produces jewelry;
- Lemarie, working with feathers and camellias;
- Lesage, engaged in embroidery;
- Massaro, shoe studio;
- Michel, which makes women's hats.
- Pret-a-Porter collections were developed by the chief designer of the House - Karl Lagerfeld. They are traditionally presented every December.

In 2002, Chanel continued to increase its sales in the US. So, by December, there were already 25 brand boutiques in the United States. In the same year, there was a rumor about a possible merger between Chanel and one of the largest luxury goods manufacturers, Hermes. These data gave rise to a lot of anxiety, because such a merger could give rise to the largest holding company - a rival to the famous Moet Hennesy Louis Vuitton. Perhaps that is why the merger was never destined to take place.

To satisfy the wishes of younger customers, in 2003 Chanel presents the Coco Mademoiselle fragrance and the youth clothing line B-C Wear. In the same year, Chanel Haute Couture is experiencing such a surge in popularity that the brand opens a second boutique on Cambon Street in Paris. Looking to expand into the Asian market, Chanel is opening a 2,400-square-meter boutique in Hong Kong and is also building a $50 million boutique in Ginza, Tokyo, Japan.

The Russian representative office of the company - Chanel LLC - was opened in 2002. From 1999 to February 2006, Mercury was the exclusive seller of Chanel clothing and accessories in Russia.

In February 2006, the first Chanel boutique in Russia was opened in Stoleshnikov Lane in Moscow. Then the number of stores increased to seven: five of them are located in Moscow and one each in Yekaterinburg and St. Petersburg.

For 2016, the number of fashion boutiques was reduced to five: four of them are located in Moscow and one in St. Petersburg.

CHANEL forever!

"Fashion is a fun idea... and should be spent as soon as possible."

"Luxury is when the inside is as beautiful as the face."

"If you were struck by the beauty of some woman, but you cannot remember,

what she was wearing - so she was dressed perfectly "

Coco Chanel

CHANEL - brand historyChanel is a French company, one of the most famous fashion houses in the world.
Headquarters - Place Vendome, Paris
Foundation - the beginning of the twentieth century
First boutique - 1913
Founder - Gabriel Bonheer Chanel (August 19, 1883 - January 10, 1971) - the legendary "Coco" Chanel.
Activities - trade and production of designer goods: clothing, cosmetics and perfumes, jewelry, accessories. Opened about 100 boutiques around the world. At the moment, the head designer of the House of Chanel is Karl Lagerfeld.
Annual turnover - according to the Internet resource hoovers.com is about $ 1296 billion per year.

Only one word Chanel is synonymous with sophistication, luxury and originality. But beyond that, the word is a globally recognized brand. For many fashionistas, Chanel is the pinnacle of fashion culture. According to the results of the poll of the magazine "L" Expansion, Chanel is the most beloved brand of the French. But how did Coco Chanel manage to achieve such heights: to make a fashion revolution, become a legendary person during his lifetime, and from his company to create a real Fashion Empire? It's all about talent, hard work and unerring intuition.

Coco Chanel Gabrielle was born in the small town of Saumur, France in 1883. The mother died when the girl was six years old. The father left the children (Gabrielle and her four brothers) and they ended up in an orphanage. At the age of 18, Gabrielle got a job in a clothing store, in her free time she loved to sing in a cabaret. Her favorite songs were "Ko Ko Ri Ko" and "Qui qua vu Coco", hence the nickname "Coco". At one of her performances, she met the officer Etienne Balzan, and soon moved to live with him in Paris. After a short life together, they parted. Gabriel's companion soon became the English industrialist Arthur Capel.

Thanks to a very wealthy admirer, she was able to open her first store in Paris in 1910. Chanel made and sold women's hats herself, and within a year the Fashion House moved to Rue Cambon, where it remains to this day. Coco has been a huge influence in high fashion and has made it to TIME MAGAZINE's 100 most influential people of the 20th century.

By 1919, Chanel had clients all over the world. The clothes she created revolutionized fashion and influenced the lifestyle of society as a whole. She changed the woman's attitude towards her garedrobe. One of the biographers Gabrielle Chanel wrote: "She created a woman that the world did not know before her. She made a woman a new creature, omnipotent, despite the legendary female weaknesses."

Many wore her flannel blazers, loose-fitting skirts, long jersey sweaters (an inexpensive fabric from which men's underwear was sewn before), sailor suits and the famous suit (skirt + jacket). Her clothes were light and natural. Gabrielle never drew models of her clothes - she pinned them directly on fashion models or clients to see how things look in motion. "So that you can roll up your sleeves," she sewed a button on the cuff of a ladies' blouse, and to "easily find the keys," she picked up a red lining for black bags. Coco Chanel herself made herself a short haircut (before that, women did not do haircuts), wore sunglasses and small hats.

In 1921, the famous perfume "Chanel No. 5" appeared, the first synthesized perfume that did not smell of a specific flower: "Perfume for a woman that smells like a woman." After more than 80 years, they are still at the peak of popularity! In 1926, Chanel first introduced her little black dress to the world - with a simple semi-circular neckline and long tight sleeves, mid-knee length (Coco always believed that the knees were the ugliest part of the female body), without a collar, buttons, laces, folds, frills, fringe - brilliant in its conciseness. In 1926, the American Vogue magazine equated the "little black dress" with the Ford car in terms of versatility and popularity. In 1939, Chanel closed all her boutiques and the Fashion House due to the Second World War. While most of the couturiers left the country, Coco remained in Paris. After the end of the war, she left for Switzerland.

Coco Chanel In 1954, 71-year-old Chanel returned to the fashion world. Coco improved her classic models, and as a result, the richest and most famous women became regular visitors to her shows. The Chanel suit has become a symbol of a new generation: made of tweed, with a narrow skirt, a collarless jacket trimmed with braid, golden buttons and patch pockets. Coco also re-introduced handbags, jewelry and shoes, which were a resounding success.

In the 1950s and 1960s, Coco collaborated with various Hollywood studios, dressing such stars as Audrey Hepburn and Liz Taylor. In 1969, legendary actress Katharine Hepburn played the role of Chanel in the Broadway musical Coco. Gabrielle's personal life did not work out: she had many novels, but she did not marry and did not become a mother.

On January 10, 1971, at the age of 88, the great Coco Chanel passed away. She is buried in Lausanne, Switzerland.

In 1982, the house of Chanel was headed by Karl Lagerfeld. He shortened the skirts of the famous suits as much as possible, which Chanel probably would not have approved, but, nevertheless, he follows a very important principle - clothes should be comfortable. Lagerfeld's latest development is the saddle-shaped pouch, which is very comfortable to wear between the arm and the thigh. "I combine luxury and practicality," says Lagerfeld. "That's exactly what Chanel herself did. I think she would be happy."