How to make silk. How silk is obtained from silkworms. The difference between natural silk and artificial

There were legends about silk fabric in ancient times: an outlandish material from the Celestial Empire is incredibly thin and durable, shiny, beautiful and, perhaps, even healing. Now silk remains one of the most expensive fabrics, which is dictated by the peculiarities of the production process and the properties of the material. .

The source of raw materials remained unique - like thousands of years ago natural silk is made from fibers obtained by processing the cocoons of silkworm caterpillar pupae . Accordingly, silk production requires special weather conditions. China still remains the main exporter of silk to the world market. , although silkworms are grown in India, Brazil and other countries with a warm climate.

Story

The silkworm was "domesticated" in China about 5,000 years ago. . This dim butterfly that feeds on mulberry leaves (mulberries) and during pupation, it spins a cocoon of very strong fibers as thick as a cobweb . According to mythological legends, the first silk thread was woven by the young Empress Xi Ling Shi, who later became known as the goddess of silk.

After 2.5 thousand years, the secret technology became known to the Arabs, then leaked to Byzantium. But Chinese silk has always been valued above the rest.

Production technology

The silkworm caterpillar spins a cocoon from a very thin and strong fiber. An oval or egg-shaped cocoon-pupa with a hole on one side serves as a home for a caterpillar, which is preparing to turn into a butterfly. Silk production technology does not allow silkworm butterflies to leave a cocoon in a natural way - d about the completion of the transformation of the insect, the pupae are doused with boiling water, and the caterpillars die . For this reason, conservationists have been fighting against the producers of natural silk for many years. But it has not yet been possible to recreate its properties in artificial conditions, so the killing of caterpillars continues.

Under the action of boiling water, the fibers become more elastic, and the adhesive solution with which the caterpillar fastens its “house” dissolves. . After heat treatment, the cocoon is easily unwound into individual fibers. The natural color of silk is white or cream. To get a silk thread, several fibers are twisted together. (up to eight). This thread is called raw silk.

Finished threads are impregnated with chemical compounds , which give the material water-repellent properties, prevent shrinkage and creasing of the fabric in the future.

Silk Benefits

Air and water permeability - silk "breathes" and does not retain heat, which is very useful for summer clothes and underwear.
Lightness and strength - the fabric is practically not felt on the body, but it is much more difficult to tear it than cotton or viscose.
Elasticity - silk things do not deform when washed, do not stretch on the knees and elbows and do not shrink.
Smoothness - silk not only shines excellently, due to the smooth surface it practically does not wear out and does not form ugly spools.
It is believed that amino acids in silk have a positive effect on skin condition , accelerate cell regeneration, thereby creating a rejuvenating effect.

Weak sides

Silk is damaged by high temperatures - iron and wash it with minimal heat.
Dyes on silk fabrics fade quickly under the open sun.

Subtleties of care

You can often find silk mixed with synthetics - this is a more practical and economical option. . The label of natural silk will necessarily indicate: "100% KBT SEIDE" (sometimes "ORGANIC SEIDE"). In the latter case, the material is also organic, which means that chemicals hazardous to human health were not even used to process mulberry leaves, which the silkworms fed on. How to care for such a delicate fabric?

Wash in water not warmer than 30 degrees manually or in "silk" mode;
do not twist , just gently squeeze out the water;
do not dry in the sun ;
cannot be dried or stored silk things near heating appliances or other sources of heat;
iron in the most gentle mode from the wrong side of the product .

It is impossible to give an exact date when people learned to use threads from silkworm cocoons to make fabric. An ancient legend says that once a cocoon fell into the tea of the Empress of China - the wife of the Yellow Emperor - and turned into a long silk thread. It is believed that it was this Empress who taught her people to breed caterpillars in order to produce a fabric that is unique in its composition. The ancient production technology was strictly classified for many years, and for the disclosure of this secret, you could easily lose your head.

What is silk made from?

Several thousand years have passed, and silk products are still in demand and are also valued all over the world. Numerous artificial substitutes for silk, although they approached the original in their properties, are still inferior to natural silk in many criteria.

So, natural silk is a soft fabric made from threads extracted from the cocoon of a silkworm (read the article "?"). About 50% of the world's production of natural silk is concentrated in China, from here the best quality silk is supplied all over the world. Incidentally, silk production began here as early as the fifth millennium BC, so this craft in China is more than traditional.

The finest silkworms are used to create the highest quality silk. After hatching from eggs, these caterpillars immediately begin to eat. In order to start producing silk threads, silkworms increase their weight by 10,000 times by eating only fresh mulberry leaves! After 40 days and 40 nights of continuous feeding, the larvae begin to weave a cocoon. The silk cocoon is made from a single strand of saliva. Each caterpillar is capable of producing almost a kilometer long silk thread! It takes 3-4 days to make a cocoon.

By the way, not only silkworms produce threads. Spiders and bees also produce silk, only silkworm silk is used in industry.

Silk production technology

The production of natural silk is a rather complex and multi-stage process. The first stage is the cleaning and sorting of silkworm cocoons. Untangling the delicate silk thread is not so easy, because it is glued together by a protein called sericin. For this purpose, the cocoons are thrown into hot water to soften the sericin and clean the threads. Each thread is only a few thousandths of a millimeter wide, so to make a thread strong enough, several threads have to be interlaced. It takes about 5,000 cocoons to produce just one kilogram of silk.

After removing the sericin protein, the threads are thoroughly dried, as they are quite fragile when wet and can be easily torn. Traditionally, this is done by adding raw rice to the threads, which easily absorbs excess moisture. In automated production, the threads are also dried.

Then the dried silk thread is wound on a special device that can hold a huge number of threads. After all these procedures, the finished silk is hung out to dry.

An undyed silk thread is a bright yellow thread. To dye it in other colors, the thread is first dipped in hydrogen peroxide to bleach it, and then dyed in the desired color with dyes.

Silk threads still have a long way to go to become a fabric, namely the weaving of threads on a loom. In Chinese villages, where traditional manual production flourishes, 2-3 kilograms of silk are made daily, while automatic production at the factory makes it possible to produce 100 kilograms of silk every day.

Silk is a valuable fabric known throughout the world for its soft sheen, unique smoothness and high durability. It was from natural silk that the robes of kings and noble nobles were made in ancient times. Now the precious material is available to everyone: it is used to make magnificent clothes and shoes, luxurious interior decorations and valuable home textiles.

Silk, unlike other fabrics, is not made from materials of plant or animal origin. It is made from cocoons of silkworm caterpillars.

The appearance of the material

The world owes the appearance of silk to the ancient Chinese craftsmen, who began to extract silk thread from cocoons a couple of millennia BC. Then silk fabric was made by hand, so only emperors and nobility had products from it.

The Chinese understood the value of the amazing fabric, so they kept the secret of its manufacture a secret. A person who dared to divulge the secret of silk production was condemned to death. However, by the 4th century, silk production technology had become known in Korea, Japan and India. In 550, this art became available to Europeans.

The color of passion.

Manufacturing technology

Silk making technology is very complicated. Moths and silkworm caterpillars are grown in special nurseries. When the caterpillar is wrapped in a cocoon, it is killed, and the cocoon is softened in hot water. Then it is unwound. From one cocoon, from 300 to 1000 m of silk fiber is obtained. The thread is compacted by twisting 5–8 fibers at a time, and wound into spools.

Coils are sorted, processed, sometimes the fibers are additionally twisted to increase density. The finished material is sent to the factory. There, the yarn is soaked in water and dyed. Then fabrics with different weaves are made from it. The type of silk fabric will depend on the type of weaving and the density of the threads.

Important! Now different countries are engaged in the manufacture of this material. However, China is still considered the leader in the supply of natural silk to the world market.

Chemical and physical properties of silk fabrics

Silk composition

The chemical composition of silk thread is close to human hair or animal wool: 97% of it consists of protein, the rest is wax and fats. Its composition is as follows:

18 amino acids;
2% potassium and sodium;
3% fat and wax components;
40% sericin;
80% fibroin.

Natural silk is very expensive: not everyone can afford a product made from this material. Therefore, factories have now appeared that are engaged in the manufacture of artificial fabrics - cupro silk (from viscose) and synthetic silk. Externally, synthetics differ little from natural fabrics, but do not have its wear resistance, strength and hygiene.

Important! The strength of silk is reduced when exposed to temperatures above 110°C or ultraviolet rays. The fabric becomes brittle, can be torn from minor physical impacts. With a long stay in the open sun (more than 200 hours), the strength of silk is halved.

Silk properties

Natural silk has gained popularity due to its amazing properties. Features of silk fabric are as follows:

High density, wear resistance and resistance to vinegar and alcohol. Only a concentrated solution of acid or alkali can damage the material.
Smoothness, soft shine and bright overflows. Silk pleasantly adheres to the skin, gently flows along the body and gently shines, making the products made from it look regally luxurious.
Bactericidal and hypoallergenic properties. Silk prevents the growth of bacteria, absorbs unpleasant odors and does not cause allergies. That is why it is often used to make clothes and bedding.
The crease of the material depends on the type. Plain weave silk wrinkles easily. But silk-lycra or silk-jacquard almost do not wrinkle.
The fabric does not undergo combustion: when a spark hits a silk product, it begins to smolder, spreading the smell of burnt feathers.

Fabric characteristics

For fans of silk clothing, other properties of the material are also important:

the fabric is well dyed in any shades due to the high hygroscopicity of the material:
perfectly passes and absorbs water, does not electrify, stretches well;
has an average shrinkage: after washing, the silk fabric always shrinks and can lose up to 5% of its original length.

Important! Silk is not only used for making clothes. Fine souvenirs are made from it, it is used in embroidery, knitting and felting, and crepe de chine, foulard or toile is an excellent basis for paintings and batik scarves.

Silk varieties

There are many varieties of silk fabrics. They differ in the quality of the thread, appearance, structure, weaving pattern and properties.

The most common types of silk fabric:

Toile- material with plain weaving, which holds its shape well and is distinguished by a soft shine and high density. It is used for sewing dresses, skirts, linings for outerwear and ties.
Silk satin- fabric with satin weave, which has two sides: a shiny front and a matte back. The satin drapes well and can have different densities. It is used for making clothes, shoes and decorating interiors.
Silk chiffon- a fabric with a plain weave. Differs in softness, transparency, roughness and dullness. Used for blouses, dresses, bathrobes.
dupont- dense fabric with a sheen. It is used for tailoring of curtains, curtains and vertical blinds.
Foulard- light and shiny fabric, suitable for making linen and scarves. It is very popular with batik masters.

There are other types of fabric: gas, organza, silk-viscose, excelsior, brocade, chescha.

Areas of use

The areas of application of silk are numerous:

Making clothes. Both winter and summer clothes are made from silk fabrics, since this material maintains a comfortable temperature for the body in any weather. In addition, silk products have an attractive appearance, absorb unpleasant odors, prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin and do not cause allergies.
Medicine. Silk has disinfectant and bactericidal properties, which is why it is used as a suture material in surgery (even in such delicate areas as eye or neurosurgery). Threads made from the outer or inner fiber of the cocoon - burette silk - are best suited for performing surgical sutures.
Home textiles. This hypoallergenic material, which does not breed bugs and dust mites, is great for making home textiles. Curtains, roller blinds, bed linen, furniture covers, bedspreads are sewn from thick silk.

Advantages and disadvantages of natural silk

Material advantages:

Cons of silk:

expensive;
needs special careful care;
does not tolerate washing in very hot water;
requires accuracy when ironing;
loses strength with prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation;
becomes contaminated when liquid or sweat comes into contact with the surface.

Despite the fact that silk products have a number of disadvantages, this fabric remains popular all over the world.

Silk is a delicate fabric that requires careful wear and careful care. The main recommendations for the care of silk things are as follows:

wash by hand at a temperature not exceeding 30ºС or in a typewriter in the "Delicate wash" or "Silk" mode;
do not use ordinary alkaline powder for washing: you need to purchase a cleaning agent with the inscription "for silk";
do not use bleach and fabric softener;
do not wrinkle, twist and squeeze the material strongly so as not to spoil its structure;
to dry a silk product, it is advisable to wrap it in a towel, allow excess moisture to absorb, and then put the thing on a horizontal surface and leave to dry;
silk can be ironed in the “Silk” mode without steam, it is forbidden to iron a wet product;
after washing, colored silk should be rinsed in cool water with the addition of vinegar (5 tablespoons of 9% vinegar per 10 liters of water).

If you take proper care of silk products, they will serve you for many years.

Silk is not in vain called the "king of fabrics", because this fabric is very beautiful, has many advantages and can be used both in the production of clothing and accessories, and in interior design. What is silk made of and how difficult is it? Read the article below.

A bit of history

The production of this amazing fabric originated in ancient China, and for a very long time the world did not know the secret of its manufacture. The threat of the death penalty hung over the person who decided to reveal this secret. Therefore, the price of the fabric was appropriate, few people could afford to buy it. In the Roman Empire, silk was worth its weight in gold! When did the Chinese learn to use silkworm threads to make thin linen? No historian will give you the exact date. There is a legend that a cocoon of a caterpillar once fell into the tea of the Empress and turned into a thread of amazing beauty. Then the wife of the Yellow Emperor began to breed silkworm caterpillars.

Only in 550 AD. e. Byzantine emperor Justinian managed to reveal the secret of what silk is made of. Two monks were sent to China on a secret mission. Returning two years later, they brought silkworm eggs with them. The monopoly is over.

About silkworm caterpillars

Natural silk fabric today, as in ancient times, can only be made using the best caterpillars. There are a lot of butterflies in the silkworm family, but only caterpillars called Bombyx mori can give the most expensive thread. This species does not exist in the wild, as it was created and raised artificially. They were bred for the sole purpose of laying eggs for rearing silk-producing caterpillars.

They fly very badly and see almost nothing, but they cope with the main task perfectly. Caterpillars live for several days, but manage to find a partner and lay up to 500 eggs. On about the tenth day, caterpillars emerge from the eggs. It takes about 6,000 caterpillars to produce a kilogram of silk.

How do caterpillars produce silk thread?

What silk is made of, we have already figured out, but how does it happen? How does a caterpillar produce such a precious thread? The fact is that the hatched creatures eat the leaves of the mulberry tree on which they live all day and night. In two weeks of life, they grow 70 times and molt several times. Having fed the mass, the silkworms are ready for the production of thread. The body becomes translucent, and the caterpillars crawl in search of a place to develop a thread. At this point, they need to be placed in special boxes with cells. There they begin an important process - weaving cocoons.

The digested leaves turn into fibroin, which accumulates in the glands of the caterpillar. Over time, the protein turns into a substance called sericin. In the mouth of the creatures there is a spinning organ, at the exit from which two strands of fibroin are glued together with the help of sericin. It turns out one strong one that freezes in the air.

One caterpillar is capable of twisting a thread more than a thousand kilometers long in two days. It takes more than a hundred cocoons to produce one silk scarf, and 9,000 for a traditional kimono!

Silk production technology

When the cocoon is ready, it must be unwound (this is called cocoon reeling). To begin with, cocoons are collected and subjected to heat treatment. After that, low-quality threads are thrown away. The remaining threads are steamed in hot water to moisturize and soften. Then special brushes find the end, and the machine connects two or more threads (depending on the desired thickness). The raw material is rewound, so it dries.

Why is the fabric so smooth? The fact is that according to a special technology, all sirocin is removed from it. Silk is boiled in a soapy solution for several hours. Cheaper untreated fabric is rough and difficult to dye. That is why chiffon is not so smooth.

Silk dyeing

The long journey of fabric production is not yet over, although it is nearing completion. After boiling the silk, another important stage lies ahead - dyeing. Smooth threads are easy to dye. The structure of fibroin allows the dye to penetrate deep into the fiber. Therefore, silk scarves retain their color for so long. The canvas contains positive and negative ions, which allows you to use any paint and get a good result. Silk is dyed both in skeins and ready-made fabric.

To obtain a more shiny fabric and its rich color, silk is "revitalized", that is, treated with vinegar essence. At the end of the journey, the canvas is once again doused with hot steam under pressure. This allows you to remove the internal stress of the fibers. The process is called decatenation.

Now you know what silk is made of and what a long way it is. It is mainly produced in China and India, but the trendsetters of "silk fashion" are France and Italy. Currently, there are many reminiscent of silk, but at a much lower price (viscose, nylon). However, not a single fabric can compete with natural silk!

Silk is a soft and durable fabric with a pleasant glossy sheen. The manufacturing technology of the thread is unique - it is obtained by unwinding miniature silkworm cocoons. The secret of making silk was known only in China for a long time. Despite the fact that now the noble fabric is made in India, Brazil and other countries of the world, China remains the largest silk producer to this day.

Taffeta

The main feature (or taffets) is rigidity and dimensional stability. Petticoats and lining are sewn from this material. The word "taffeta" Persians called any woven material. Tightly twisted threads are connected in a reliable linen weave.

Character traits:

wear resistance;
durability;
pleasant glossy sheen;
dimensional stability;
moisture repellency.

Due to the strength of the fabric, balloons were made from waxed taffeta and covered with it the wings and plumage of some of the first aircraft.

Taffeta is plain, printed, crinkled and smooth, as well as with a large woven pattern.

Toile

Toile began to be made in France to replace the expensive printed Indian fabric chintz. The main feature is a color pattern printed over a plain canvas. Popular stories:

floral ornaments;
images of animals;
pastoral scenes.

The interlacing of the warp and weft threads is linen. The toile is also made from natural silk. Unlike its cotton counterpart, silk is smoother, shinier, finer and more festive. This material was often upholstered with walls in living rooms.

Chiffon

Chiffon silk

Real silk chiffon is an expensive, elite material. Very light, slightly sandy to the touch fabric. The threads for creating chiffon are tightly twisted (however, as for the manufacture of other light materials).

Basic properties:

ease;
color fastness;
strength;
hypoallergenicity;
hygroscopicity;
antibacterial.

Chiffon varieties include mother-of-pearl pearl chiffon, glossy satin chiffon, rough crepe chiffon, jacquard chiffon and iridescent chameleon-effect fabric.

Chesucha (wild silk)

The fabric consists of a plain weave of fibers of uneven thickness. This material is produced either from the remnants of silk yarn and defective fibers, or from cocoons not of a silkworm, but of a butterfly called Antheraea mylitta. The material is dense but light. Untreated scab has a yellow-brown color.

Advantages:

affordable price;
strength;
hygroscopicity;
aesthetic matte finish.

From chesuchi they sew everyday and outerwear for any season and climate. The threads contain amino acids that have a beneficial effect on the condition of the skin.

Foulard

Scarf fabric foulard

This thin silk material is called handkerchief. Foulard appeared in the XVIII century in Europe. Translated from French means scarf. The weave of the fabric is very simple and reliable - linen. The foulard is dyed in various colors and decorated with prints.

Fabric properties:

antibacterial;
hypoallergenicity;
hygroscopicity;
drape.

Foulard cannot be called a very durable fabric. Curtains, lampshades, neckerchiefs and stoles, as well as accessories (artificial flowers, brooches) are made from this material.

Properties and uses of silk

Having considered various types of fabrics, we can conclude that the main distinguishing feature of natural silk is a soft noble sheen. The fiber has a trihedral cross section and refracts light like a prism. Thanks to this optical effect, silk things look light, elegant, reminiscent of the smooth surface of water.

Flaws:

requires delicate care and careful work with the iron;
silk should be protected from sunlight;
high price.

A large number of different products are sewn from silk:

women's clothing (blouses, skirts, jackets, trousers);
dresses (wedding, evening, cocktail);
men's clothing (shirts, ties);
underwear (corsets, shorts, bras);
home clothes (robes, suits);
bed linen (pillowcases, sheets, duvet covers, as well as decorative pillows);
curtains (lambrequins, curtains, curtains);
household textiles (napkins,);
lining for outerwear (coats, jackets, fur coats);
furniture upholstery (armchairs, sofas, poufs);
decor and accessories (ribbons, hair clips, neckerchiefs).

An interesting fact: silk threads are also used as a surgical suture material for the treatment of wounds and various injuries.

Subtleties of care

Silk is a noble and delicate material. Things should be protected from puffs, claws of animals, exposure to high temperatures. Silk requires accuracy and skill during ironing. To maintain a neat appearance of the fabric, a few general rules should be followed:

Silk can be washed by hand, in warm water (30 degrees), avoiding sharp twisting.
In the washing machine, choose a delicate or gentle mode (depending on the model of equipment, they are called differently). Some washing machines are equipped with a special "silk" mode. The temperature regime is observed (30 degrees).
The washed fabric should be rinsed in warm water (25 degrees). You can also add vinegar (five tablespoons per ten liters of water) - this technique will help enhance the brightness of the silk.
The material can be pressed by hand and in the machine, you just need to make sure that the process is gentle.
Silk is dried in the shade on the street or in a well-ventilated area - under the influence of ultraviolet light, the fabric may change color. Things are well straightened or hung on a coat hanger.
The fabric is kept away from heating appliances.
Silk is ironed with a slightly heated iron. There are special automatic modes of the same name for ironing.

When buying silk, you should be wary of fakes made from viscose or synthetic threads. Artificial fabric shines dull, the front side may be uneven. When compressed, artificial silk is wrinkled and retains the shape of the creases. If you set fire to a synthetic thread, it will smell like plastic, and viscose thread will smell like wood. A silk thread set on fire burns very slowly, smells like burnt feathers, and a gray ball forms at the end.

Despite the high cost of fabric, natural silk clothing is very popular. It is considered prestigious and is suitable for everyday wear, office work, and for various special occasions.