How to sew a knitted stitch. How beautiful to sew a sleeve into a knitted product

This article will collect lessons for beginners on proper knitting, modeling and building sleeve models, and we will also tell you how to properly add and decrease loops to form armholes and sleeves, as well as their correct fastening.

1. Types of sleeves and calculation of loops

There are a lot of forms of sleeves, as well as techniques for knitting them. Before knitting a product, it is worth deciding on the exact pattern of the sleeves. Two factors influence the finished look of the sleeve: the chosen shape of this part of the thing and the intended style of the finished product as a whole. And although the structure of the sleeves differs slightly, the specifics of their knitting are still different.

Beginning knitters from the general rules for knitting sleeves should note the following:

• First, the armhole is knitted, then the okat;
• The shoulder line, depending on the model of clothing, is knitted: straight, with a slope, and also with a rounding.

It is this feature that distinguishes many types of sleeves, and it is possible thanks to the work with decreasing loops. Counting the loops to decrease on back and shelf, novice masters should consider the following:

• Having counted the total number of loops, you need to subtract those that will go to the shoulders and the roll-out of the neck;
• The remaining number of loops is divided by two - this number should be reduced to knit armholes;
• From the beginning of the very first row, you need to close three or four loops, and then through the row - two times one at a time. After that, one loop is closed at a time, until the number that is required in your case is on the knitting needles.

For the armhole, the steps from point 3 are performed, after which the rounding of the upper part of the sleeve is knitted in this way: one or two loops are reduced until several loops remain. When forming an armhole, the loops are both reduced and closed. Close them at the beginning of the row. The loops modeling the armhole are reduced either inside the row or along the edges. Thus, a thin side is obtained with an inclination in the right direction. Now everything is in more detail.

To automatically build patterns, you can use mnemosina.ru

2. Construction of a sleeve pattern

The content of the topics corresponds to the photo number. To enlarge, click on the picture, then on the magnifying glass.

1. We make measurements for the sleeve

2 . Knowing sleeve width at the armhole and at the wrist find out how many cm the sleeve will expand from the wrist to the armholes on both sides, subtract and distribute the added loops along the side seam:

3. Okaty at the sleeve may have a different line and are interconnected with the armholes. Consider a standard sleeve and a standard okat. It is shown step by step how, according to the density of knitting and the pattern, to make calculations for the okat of the sleeve and in what sequence to close the loops for the design of the okat (head) of the sleeve.

4. Types of armholes and rounds

5 .How to build a sleeve? How to sew a sleeve?

Oddly enough, I found several "standard calculation formulas" for sleeve patterns.
The lines of the height of the okat (sleeve head) and the width of the sleeve are interconnected.

• Knowing the standard formula for calculating the armhole, we check what we imposed: ⅓ POG (half chest circumference) + 5 cm.
• For example, if POG = 48 cm, then the calculation is 48: 3 + 5 = 21 cm.
• For such an armhole, the sleeve height is calculated using the formula ¼ POG + 3 cm -> 48: 4 + 3 = 15 cm.
• If you change the depth of the armhole, then you need to change not only the height of the eyelet, but also the width of the sleeve at the top.
• We check what eye height and sleeve width we should get according to our size,
• So, we know from our density of the sample and from the pattern that for the number of knitted rows "X" (the length of the sleeve from the wrist to the armholes) we should get the entire width of the sleeve "Y" and reduce all the loops of the sleeve width for the height of the eyelet.

6.Building a sleeve pattern

How to knit a sleeve with knitting needles without a pattern

It happens that we knit any model, the knitting description of which we do not have. And often we are faced with the fact that we have problems with how to knit a sleeve, how to correctly calculate the loops for expanding the sleeve and shaping its circle. In this article I will tell you how to knit the sleeves with knitting needles that are tapered to the wrist, how to calculate the number of added loops needed to expand the sleeve up without a pattern, and also how to knit the sleeves with knitting needles using this method of decreasing loops that is suitable for knitting with any knitting needles and yarn, regardless of the density of knitting.

Sleeves can be knitted in several ways - from bottom to top, from the beginning of the sleeve to the top point of the collar, from top to bottom, from the top point of the sleeve to its bottom, and also in cross-stitch - from one side seam to the other. Now we will analyze how to knit a sleeve with knitting needles from the bottom up.

How to knit a sleeve from the beginning to the eyeline:

11. The first thing, before we start knitting the sleeve with knitting needles, is three main measurements: the length of the sleeve from the beginning of the sleeve to the line of the collar (to the armpit), the width of the sleeve at the bottom, narrowest part and the width of the sleeve at the top, wide part. If the sleeve starts with a cuff or lapel, we measure the length of the sleeve from the end of the cuff.
2. Determine the number of loops corresponding to the measurements of the width of the sleeve in the narrow and wide part. Next, count the number of rows that corresponds to the length of the sleeve. How to do this, you can read here.
3. Now we determine the number of loops that need to be added to expand the sleeve. To do this, subtract the number of loops in the narrowest part from the number of loops in the widest part. Since we will add loops on both sides of the sleeve, the resulting number must be divided by two.
4. To determine how many rows you need to add loops, divide the number of rows corresponding to the length of the sleeve by the number obtained above. The resulting value corresponds to the number of rows through which you need to add loops.
Example:
In our example, these are 72 loops, divide by 2, we get 36
2. The resulting number of loops is divided into 3 parts. If a number comes out with a remainder, then we attach it to the first (extreme) part. We divide the loops of each of the three parts into groups as follows:
- we divide half of the parts of the first part into threes, the second half into twos;
- all loops of the first part are divided into units;
- the loops of the third part are divided into triples, if the loops are divided with the remainder, then we add it to the last, central group.

3. The loops of the first and third parts must be closed in every second row. The loops of the second part must be closed as follows: close the first third of the loops in every 2nd row, close the second third of the loops in every 4th row, close the third third of the loops again in every 2nd row.
Example:

36: 3 = 12, i.e. in each of the three parts there will be 12 loops. We close the loops as follows: first the first part of the loops - 2 times 3 loops, then 3 times 2 loops. Next, close the second part of the loops - 12 times 1 loop. Then we close the third part of the loops - 4 times 3 loops.
In our example, 12 loops are divided into three parts = 4 loops. We close 4 times 1 loop in each 2nd row, 4 times 1 loop in each 4th row, 4 times 1 loop in each 2nd row.
These values ​​are calculated for one half of the sleeve, we knit the second half of the sleeve symmetrically.
What is the best way to make reductions:
At the beginning of the front row, we close the previously calculated number of loops (in our example, 3 loops), we knit the row to the end, turn the knitting and at the beginning of the next, purl row we close the same number of loops, we knit the row to the end. At the beginning of the next front row, we repeat the same steps. When only the loops of the last group, right and left, remain on the knitting needles (in our example, this is 3 + 3 = 6 loops), then all the remaining loops must be closed in one step.

Calculation of sleeves from KameliaS_knit

The method of decreasing loops when forming the sleeve and armholes from aisteb1973

4 first and 4 last loops on the spoke participate. We start with an edge loop, 1 person., 2 together to the right, we knit to the last 4 p., 2 together to the left, 1 person., 1 edge. This is done every 2nd, 4th or 6th row as described. The parts are sewn with a mattress seam. I always remove the edge without knitting at the beginning of the front or back row.

4. Sewing in the set-in sleeve

1. Sleeves with a straight or small roll.
The sleeves must be sewn in especially carefully and this must be done before the side seams of the product are sewn and before the sleeve is sewn along the length.
Usually they are sewn in from the outside along the front side with a mattress or kettle seam, having completed the shoulder seams before that. The details are laid out on the working surface, fixed (pinned) so that they do not warp when sewn in, cut off the middle of the sleeve and shoulder seam, then cut off the corners of the sleeve and armhole. The remaining sections are chipped evenly at the same distance.

2. At the same time, it must be remembered that when stitching a fabric made with front stitch, when performing loop-to-loop seam on open loops of the okat, after every three loops, two transverse threads are picked up instead of one, and when sewing with a stitch, three transverse threads are used instead of two. The seam will be flatter and more inconspicuous if you sew the open loops of the sleeves with a kettle seam.

To do this, the edges of the sleeve and armhole details are cut off and sewn from right to left as follows: first, the thread is pulled from bottom to top next to the edge loop through the front (or back) detail, then through the 1st loop of the sleeve. After this, a loop is inserted next to the right with a movement from the front side to the wrong side from top to bottom and the needle is brought out through 2 transverse threads from bottom to top, while picking up the 2nd loop of the sleeve. Then the needle is again inserted into the 1st loop of the sleeve and the detail of the front (or back) and passed under two transverse threads of the front (back) and removed through the front (back) and the third loop of the sleeve. Again we insert the needle into the second loop of the sleeve and bring it out, passing 2 transverse threads of the front (back), through the 4th loop of the sleeve. So we sew all the loops.

3. On closed loops, the sleeves perform only a mattress seam, alternately picking up one loop of the sleeve and one or two transverse threads of the back or front.

4 .Sew puffy sleeves, puffed sleeves, puffed sleeves.
The sleeves must be sewn in especially carefully and this must also be done before sewing the side seams of the product and before sewing the sleeve along the length.
You can sew in such sleeves both from the outside, on the front side of the work, and from the inside, from the inside of the work.
a) a seam laid on the wrong side.
The most common method of sewing with a kettelny seam on the wrong side.

To do this, the parts are laid on top of each other with their faces inward and evenly chopped off so that the parts do not move.
The additional width of the puffy head of the sleeve is either evenly gathered on top in the area adjacent to the shoulder, as indicated by the dotted line, or laid in folds, as provided by the style:

Fold the details so that the back (or front) is at the top, closer to you, and the sleeve itself is at the bottom, further away from you. The seam will be even if the needle is always inserted into the part directly near the edge loops.

b) a seam laid on the front side.
First, the parts are laid out on the work surface and the middle of the sleeve and the shoulder seam, the edges of the armholes and the corners of the sleeve hem are combined.
The parts are laid one on top of the other inside out, the additional width of the head of the sleeve is evenly distributed in the area adjacent to the shoulder. Then the parts are sewn with a mattress seam. On the gathered area at the shoulder, one wall of two or more loops is simultaneously picked up, depending on the width of the sleeve head, and then the transverse thread of the front (or back) part.

5.Decoration of armholes

1. How to doarmhole, shoulder and sleeve linewithout steps, I found a long time ago in the book by M. Maksimova "The ABC of knitting".
For example, you need to subtract 4 p., Then 3 p. First, subtract 4 p. By pulling from the front and back sides of the work.
Then I start doingsmooth line So:
1. Before the next decrease at the end, purl out. remove the hem row untied (leave the thread on the wrong side). Turn the canvas.
2. At the beginning of faces. remove 2 p. (edge ​​and next after it) with untied rows. Pull one loop through the other - 1 p. Decreased.
3. The remaining 2 points (out of 3) are reduced by stretching, as usual. Do the same on the other side of the canvas at the end of the faces. and worn out at the beginning. row.
Then repeat for each subsequent decrease in the same way.
For a sample, you can dial 40-45 points and make a sample

2. Fastening loops by pulling

To decorate the armholes, they begin to close the loops (make reductions) at the beginning of the front row, namelyclose by pulling sequentially gradually one after another , and do not knit the loops together!
Knit a row of the front side of the work to the end, turn the work to the wrong side and similarly close the loops at the beginning of the part on the wrong side. side. This is consideredmade in one increment . Decreases perform the specified number of times.
Not to be confused with decorative reductions along the raglan line - there, if we are talking about 2x-3x reduction loops on both sides, then they can be made in the same front row at the beginning and at the end of the part.
Do not confuse the term "reduce" loops and "close" loops!
- Reduce the loops - knit them together the indicated number of times on the canvas;
- Close the loops - fasten the loops by knitting or pulling with knitting needles, a hook or a needle gradually gradually one after another.

Reducing armholes and sleeves

To save your life, before starting the reductions, make a drawing of the armhole and write down all the reductions on it.
The first decreases usually consist of several loops - most often 4 or 3 loops. They are performed in the same way as fastening loops by pulling. Never just knit 3 or 4 stitches together.

The figure shows two decreases, the first - 4 p., The second - 2 p. Decrease should always start on the front side of the work.
1st decrease.
Rice. A-1, 2, 3 - front side. Remove the edging (and remove it at the beginning of each next row). Knit a loop and pull through. So you need to stretch the loops one after the other 4 times. It is more convenient to consider stretching, rather than knitted loops.
Then knit the front row to the end, knitting turn to the wrong side.
Rice. A-4, 5, 6 - wrong side. At the beginning of the purl row, also decrease by stretching 4 sts, and then knit the purl row to the end.
The first reduction has been completed.
2nd decrease.
Rice. B-1, 2, 3 - front side. Remove the hem, decrease 2 sts by stretching and finish the row to the end.
Rice. B-4, 5, 6 - wrong side. Remove the hem, reduce 2 sts and finish the row to the end. And the second subtraction is done.

Each such decrease forms a small step.

3.photo - Reducing loops

4. Armhole width in the drawing it is enclosed between the lines of the width of the chest (front) and the width of the back, that is, the measurement of the half-girth of the chest of the POG is the sum of three segments: half the width of the chest Shg / 2 + the width of the armhole Spr + half the width of the back Shs / 2 (half the values ​​​​of the measurements are due to the fact that that the drawing is built on half of the figure).

Decreases for front and back armholes are made in accordance with the data specified in the model description
or by calculating the density of the bound sample and the existing pattern. The armhole starts with a small concave rounding and ends with a vertical edge.

Calculations of the eyelet of the sleeve in the topic have been cited repeatedly, see the list of issues discussed in the topic.

5. How to close the loops on the armhole, neckline, shoulder bevel, sleeve hem?
Be careful:
- For the right armhole and the right shoulder bevel of the loop are closed sequentially, one after the other, at the beginning facial row, then knit the front row, turn the work;
- for the left armhole and left shoulder bevel - close the loops at the beginning purl row;
- to design the neckline on the right half of the part, we draw it up at the beginning purl rows,
- for the left half - at the beginning facial rows.

6.Armhole back
Knit the back of any style according to the pattern, having previously calculated the number of loops according to the sample of the selected pattern. If two types of knitting are used, then the calculation should be made according to both samples of patterns and, when switching from one knitting to another, recalculate the loops and perform uniform decreases or increases in the loops in the transition row.
So that the bottom has a finished look and does not twist, you can start the product with a strip of garter stitch in 5-6 rows, a hem (2.5 cm of stocking stitch, 1 out row on the front side of the work for the fold line, and another 2.5 cm of stocking stitch, then hem); bent with cloves, festoons, etc. , with borders with a special pattern, with hollow elastic bands, other elastic bands.
If the fastener needs to be made on the back (for men's products it is more expedient to fasten on the left shoulder with a zipper), then the beginning of the fastener is applied to the pattern - 10-12 cm from the neck down. Having knitted before the beginning of the cut, the loops on the knitting needle are divided in half and both halves are knitted from two balls at the same time. To prevent the edges of the cut from twisting, knit 3-4 loops in rice or stocking stitch.
7-8.Decoration of the back armhole
Having connected the back to the armhole, calculate from the pattern how many loops it will take to design the armhole on one side and on the other.
For example, the length of the armhole according to the pattern is 6 cm and equal to 18 loops.
Divide the width of the armhole (t.A-t.B) into three parts and divide the number of loops into three parts, if there is a remainder, add to the first part at t.B.
first part we knit in two steps (3 loops each), including the edge.
- at the beginning of the row we close three loops in a row, we knit a row, we turn the work, at the beginning of the row we close three loops in a row and we knit a row - one decrease is connected; we turn the work and again at the beginning of the row we close three loops, we knit the row, we turn the work, we close three loops - both reductions of the first third of the armhole from T.B.
second third We knit armhole width loops, decreasing one loop at the beginning and at the end of each front row. At the same time, at the beginning of each row, we remove the edge loop, knit the loop following it with the front one and stretch it through the edge loop. At the end of the row, we knit the hem and the loop next to it with the wrong loop. We knit purl rows without decreases.
third part we knit in the same way as the second part, but after one row, that is, after decreasing in the front row, the next 3 (three) rows are knitted without changes, and after that the next decrease is already done.
Back opening completed.

6.Design of shoulder bevels

1-2.Designing the neckline of the back and shoulder bevels:
The calculation of the neck loops depends on its shape.
The back neck can berounded, as in Fig.1. The numbers in the examples are conditional. Figure 2 - examplestraight neckline:

3. Description of the step-by-step execution of the bevels of the shoulder from the aspen for example

On the right side of the back, close 5 loops, knit the loops of the back, turn to the wrong side and close 5 loops of the left shoulder. We knit to the end of the row, turn to the face and close 4 loops of the right shoulder and knit in the face to the end of the row, turn to the wrong side and from the wrong side. sides close 4 loops of the left shoulder and knit the wrong side. Turn to the front side and close on the faces. 3 loops to the side, knit a row, close 3 loops on the wrong side, three more times for both sides.
Thus, you will close on the shoulder bevels (5 + 4 + 4x3 = 21px2 = 42 loops, and leave the remaining loops. According to the description, they will go for tying the neck of the back, most likely.
When knitting the front at the same height as the back (23 cm after the elastic), we begin to close in this way: count the front loops and find 18 loops that are in the center of the front. It is these selected loops that you will close when knitting the front row. At the same time, transfer the loops of the right half to these closed loops on a spare knitting needle, and knit this row in the face to the end of the row. From the inside, close the first 5 loops for the bevel of the shoulder and knit a row to the closed loops of the front. Turn the knitting to the right side and from the side of the closed 18 loops to the neck, close 2 loops on the right side to round the neck. Knit a row on the front side to the end, turn inside out and close the next 4 loops on the shoulder bevel. Tie out. row, and in the face, close 1 loop, knit the front row. On the wrong side, close the first 3 loops, but do not close the face. So with out. close the sides three more times in three loops. So all the loops of this half of the front will have to close. So do it exactly on that half of the front, the loops of which we shot on an additional knitting needle, only in a mirror order. You close the loops on the shoulder on the front side, the loops on the rounding of the neck - on the wrong side.
Your description says that from beginning to end, the shoulder bevel closes in 2 cm of knitting, which is why it says that the loops are closed after 25 cm from the beginning of the elastic band. That's all.
On the case: when closing armholes, necklines (concave-convex sections), loop sleeves close one after anothersequentially.
When it comes to decrease one loop "2p. together" (for example, along the edges of raglan sections) or two loops "three together" in the same place, then they are not knitted sequentially, closing the loops, but together, subtracting. If such a decrease occurs at the beginning of the row, they make a decrease (knit loops together) with the upper loop tilted to the left, after the edge loop (or retreating another couple of loops from the edge loop - according to the description). If at the end of the row, then a decrease is knitted with the upper loop tilted to the right.
You can decrease with a slope to the left (broach - 2p.together, double broach - 3p.together) or with a slope to the right (2 vm., 3 together)

Recently, we have considered the topic of fasteners. Now you know how to make a blouse or other product with a fastener, how to make a half-skid, how to apply and combine the center line of the front, so we will continue our study on this synthetic georgette blouse and learn how to sew in the sleeves correctly. Today our task is to go through all the technological processes associated with sewing in the sleeves.

Despite the fact that when constructing a basic pattern according to the cutting system of 10 measurements, the armhole and sleeve are ideal, nevertheless, there are some nuances that I want to draw your attention to.

I know from my own experience that some people even left the profession only because no one could competently explain to them how to sew sleeves in correctly, since it is not always possible to meet good teachers on our life path who can explain incomprehensible moments.

Before us is the armhole of a blouse.

We deepened it a little and here is our sleeve. In order to continue work, we need to stitch one side and shoulder seam, as well as the inner seam of the sleeve. Since this blouse is purely educational material, I will not spend time sewing all the seams and relief, so now we are working only with the armhole of the sleeve. We go to the sewing machine and grind the side seam. In my videos, I have already said that it is necessary to be able to work correctly with a sewing machine, sit correctly, hold hands correctly, process seams correctly, immediately cut the thread and clean the seams from excess threads after sewing the seam.

If you do everything right, then your work will look neat and professional, look at my stitching, it is perfect, there is no tightening of the seam anywhere, the fabric is not stretched.

We grind the sleeve from the top down. And iron the seams.

When working with an iron, it is important to remember that the first movements with an iron must be done from the inside out and they must be very light, neat, so that we do not have random wrinkles from the face of the product, since modern fabrics are such that these creases from the iron can remain forever and then it will be impossible to fix them.
At the same time, the quality of work immediately decreases sharply.

After the side seam, we iron the shoulder seam while we iron it back towards the back, since it is important for us to have an armhole and we try for it, and for a real product, the shoulder seam would be ironed into an iron on both sides.

After ironing all the seams, we go behind the typewriter. For sewing sleeves into the armhole in our atelier and from the practice of my work, we use a seam with an allowance of 0.5-0.7 cm, and I do not recognize another seam allowance in the armhole. All our products have very neat, thin seams, there are no thick and rough seams in products sewn by our craftsmen.

We take our sleeve, fold it in half and mark approximately in the middle or slightly lower along the collar of the sleeve, points on both sides, from which we will lay a seam, along which we will slightly fit our sleeve. After we laid this seam. We need to attach the sleeve to the armhole along the sections and see how much they match.

In our case, it remains up to about 2 cm.

If we had this distance more, then it would be a serious problem and we would have to look for what is wrong with us. And as a result, it would be necessary to reduce the sleeve and increase the armhole.

You must remember that the inside seam of the sleeve does not have to match the side seam. Since the side seam according to our system is located where it is convenient for us in terms of style and cut, namely, on half or a third of the armhole, in the middle of the mesh, therefore, in the basic system, these two seams do not match. But it is a completely different matter how far the seams of the right and left sleeves did not match, here we must be careful and follow everything that we get.

So let's continue. Here is our armhole, our sleeve. We take the sleeve with the front side towards us and begin to pick up the sleeve along the collar from the beginning of the seam to the top of the collar from both sides upwards for the lower thread of our laid seam. We do not make folds, but very carefully pick up the fabric and straighten it, distributing all the gatherings evenly.

After that, we very carefully straighten the fabric so that there is a slight wave from the fabric, but there are no wrinkles. After that, pin the center of the sleeve with a shoulder seam. Be careful, we do not immediately stick our sleeve around the whole circle, but first we work in separate sections, first in one direction, and then in the other direction from the center of the sleeve, we sweep the sleeve and armhole with small stitches. After swept up the upper part of the sleeve, we put the sleeve on the arm and see if the fit of the sleeve is good.

If we are satisfied with the way we sewed the top of the sleeve, we begin to work with the lower part of the armhole and sleeve, for this we put our sleeve on our fingers and distribute the fabric the way she wants to lie down, while straightening possible wrinkles and note how much excess we got in the armhole.

You must remember that we cannot take anything in width, but in the depth of the armhole we can very well, if such a need arises. Even with a perfect pattern, this is quite possible, but if you follow these recommendations, look at how the sleeve “fits”. Now we need to sweep the bottom line of the armhole and cut off the excess fabric.

After that, we go to scribble a seam on the machine.

We always sew on the sleeve. If you sew the sleeve from the side of the product, you will not be able to control the situation and may well sew unnecessary folds. In the process of work, have a ripper next to you, if you suddenly want to lay a crease, you can easily correct the fabric and make a high-quality seam. After that, we will clean all the seams and go to the overlock to process the cuts with an overlock. And then we'll see how to do the right ironing of the sleeve. On the overlock, we also hold the product with the sleeve towards us and the product away from us, the product must be inside. This is necessary so that you can control the gathering of the sleeve so that everything is in front of you.

On the ironing board, we also lay the sleeve with the upper part so that we can again see and control the process. It is necessary to iron the slightly wavy edge of the sleeve along the seam in such a way as to print it so that there is no looseness and waviness of the fabric and at the same time no folds can be laid anywhere.

During ironing, you can’t go far with an iron, we work carefully only with a seam. On the bottom line of the armhole, we make a light seam pull, which will give chic comfort along the armhole line. I'm going to sample. Look at the perfect fit!

set-in sleeve theme, perfect fit

It was a pleasure to show you this video tutorial. In the process of work, such nuances in technology were considered as: how to match the armhole with the sleeve; how to deepen the armhole; how to sweep the upper part of the sleeve and carefully lay out the lower part of the armhole; how to remove the excess armhole without straining the fabric and the armhole; how to throw in a sleeve; how to scribble; how to overlock a seam: but no less important is how you iron the finished sleeve.

This video is an addition to our 10-measures cutting system course. I really hope that after this video you will have a different attitude to the topic of sewing in a sleeve.

If you watched the material and liked the video, write comments, ask questions, share this information with your friends. I am very pleased to share with you my knowledge and many years of professional experience. Thank you for being with us, for watching and subscribing to our channel. All the best, I was with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna!

Before stitching knitted fabrics, they need to be properly prepared for this. In order for the finished product to have a beautiful presentable appearance and fit well on the figure, you need to sew knitted parts only in the correct sequence and with a suitable knitted stitch.To do this, you need to follow some rules that will be discussed in this article.

The main secrets for connecting parts:

1. To connect the parts, it is better to use the threads from which the knitted fabric is knitted. The exception is unspun threads, decorated, in the form of a cord. In this case, sew the parts with a flat, strong thread of a similar color. Make sure that this thread is strong and does not shed when washed.
2. It is possible to correctly assemble a product from parts only by observing a strict sequence of all operations. First of all, iron the finished parts and let them dry. Then baste them and measure the product to make sure it fits well.
3. It is better to perform seams in the following sequence: shoulder, side and sleeve seams. Sew the sleeves into the armholes last. The finishing work is completed.
4. Do not use too long thread when sewing. It should not be more than 45 cm. The constant friction of the thread on the fabric can cause the thread to break.
5. Try to keep the thread tension even when sewing. Make sure the seam forms a neat straight line. If the seam is horizontal, focus on the loops of one row, if vertical - on the vertical row of one loop. To help you see the seam line more clearly, run a contrasting basting thread through the desired stitches or row.
6. If the two flyers you are sewing are slightly different in length, you can eliminate this defect by lightly fitting into the seam. The difference in length should not exceed 1.5 cm. Otherwise, one of the parts will have to be redone.
7. Details of the product, such as a golf collar or cuffs with a lapel, are sewn in a special way. Half of the seam (to the fold of the part) is made on the front side, the rest is on the wrong side. As a result, the edges of the seam will be inside the part and will not be visible.
8. If you have a long end left from the cast-on edge, you can use this thread. To make a neat connection along the bottom edge, use the suggested technique.

Knitted seam with closed loops

Stitching the details with a knitted seam will make it almost invisible in the product. The parts to be sewn are laid out on a flat surface, if necessary, they can be ironed. The needle is inserted behind the loop located above the closed loops on the upper canvas (Fig. 1). In the same way, the needle is inserted into the loop of the bottom row of the canvas. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Fig. 2).

Knitted seam with open loops

The lowered loop is picked up with a needle, then the next loop is grabbed and the thread is pulled, after which the loop is thrown off the knitting needle (Fig. 3). On the lower part of the bar, a lowered loop is picked up with a needle, and then, inserting the needle from the bottom up, grab the next loop and pull the thread (Fig. 4).

The connection of the equity and transverse canvases

With this seam, you can sew certain parts of the product: back and sleeve, sleeve and front shelves.

First, the needle picks up the loop below the closed ones and pulls the thread (Fig. 5). After that, a needle is inserted, the broach is picked up between the edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled out. Repeat this sequence alternately. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Fig. 6).

Vertical seam for the front surface

The parts to be sewn are placed on a flat surface, if necessary, they are ironed. The needle is picked up by a broach between the edge and the first loop and the thread is pulled out (Fig. 7). On the other half of the product, the needle picks up the broach between the opposite edge and the next loop and pulls the thread. Alternately repeat these steps on each of the stitched halves. After a few centimeters, the thread is tightened (Fig. 8).

Vertical seam for wrong side

The seam for the wrong side is performed according to the same principle as the seam for the front. The needle is inserted into the broach between the edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled out (Fig. 9). Then the needle is inserted into the broach between the opposite edge and the next loop and the thread is pulled out. After 3 cm, slightly tighten (Fig. 10).

This stitch is popular with many knitters. It is quite simple to perform, does not tighten the product and is almost invisible. The seam must necessarily pass below the row of closed loops, otherwise closed loops will be visible on the right side. The needle and thread are inserted between the loops without damaging them. The stitch is led back, the working thread is drawn forward along the wrong side, it is brought out in front of the previous stitch at an equal distance with it. When making a “stitch” seam, it is imperative to turn the product over from time to time and check how the seam looks from the front side (Fig. 11).

chain stitch

In appearance, the chain stitch resembles a chain consisting of air loops (Fig. 12). It is often used when embroidering on knitwear, when processing the neck, armholes and bottom of the product.

When making a chain stitch, the thread is fixed on the wrong side of the fabric. The needle is brought out to the front side, inserted into the hole from where the thread comes out, having previously thrown the main thread from right to left to form a large loop. Then the needle is pulled out, holding the thread with the left hand, and the loop is tightened. To perform the next stitch, the needle is inserted inside the previous one. Each link seems to emerge from the other.

A prerequisite for the execution of the chain stitch is the exact matching of the stitches to each other in size. Making a chain stitch on the neck of the product will help make it more even and neat.

Kettelny seam

Experienced knitters use the kettle stitch to sew on certain details: trims, pockets, trims. In addition, horizontal cuts on the canvas are processed with this seam or the loops of the last row are fixed.

Before attaching parts of the product, they are well ironed. This makes it easier to work, and the seam is even and neat. The edge of the part that you are going to sew with a kettle seam should end with three or four front rows. Open loops are also carefully ironed.

In order to make a stitch, the needle is inserted from the inside into the second loop, then from the top into the first and then pulled out from the bottom up through the third loop. After that, the needle is inserted from top to bottom again into the second loop and pulled through the fourth from the bottom up (Fig. 14).

A neckline or trim sewn with a quilting seam retains its shape and beautiful appearance for a long time (Fig. 15).

For open elastic loops, a special seam is suitable.

The auxiliary thread should be used to knit two additional rows. Details need to be steamed with wet gauze.

After that, the rows from the auxiliary thread are removed.

Prepared parts are placed on a horizontal plane. The needle is inserted into the first 2 loops of the lower part.

After pulling up the thread, the needle should be inserted into 2 corresponding loops of the upper part, continuing to pull the thread.

After sewing one side of the elastic, you should close the loops on the other side. Then, having aligned both sides of the elastic, you need to insert a needle into 2 adjacent loops of the lower part. Inserting a needle into 2 corresponding loops of the upper part, you should tighten the thread.

How beautiful to sew a sleeve into a knitted product

To start calculations:

First photo. The top of the sleeve okat (I don’t know how this part of the okat is called correctly, but I called it the most convex part) is 15 cm = 32 loops.
7.5 cm will fall on the back and on the shelf, only 15 cm = 50 rows.
The shoulder seam is marked with a red marker (conditionally, in the sense that there is no seam, since it is sewn with a loop-to-loop seam).

For sewing, we use the "loop to loop" seam, but in our case it will be the "loop (on the edge) to the broach (on the front and back)" seam
So, our 32 loops will be sewn in 50 rows. Those. 18 rows "extra": 50-32.
50 \ 18 \u003d 2.7. Since there cannot be 2.7 rows, it means that we will "hide" every 2nd and 3rd broach. In this case, 20 broaches will be "hidden", which is not much more than 18.
From the "shoulder seam" we count 25 rows to the right and stick the needle, photo No. 2.

And we begin to sew: on the okate we raise the slices of neighboring loops (photo No. 3), and on the shelf-back we raise the broaches, while counting all the time:
once - we raise one broach (photo No. 4) on the shelf-back, we raise the loops on the okat,
two - we raise two broaches (photo No. 5) on the back shelf, we raise the loops on the okat,
once - we raise one broach on the shelf-back, we raise the loops on the okat,
two - we raise one broach on the shelf on the back, we raise the loops on the okat,
three - we raise two broaches on the back shelf, raise the loops on the okat and so on until the entire "top of the okat" is sewn. Thus, we "hide" every extra second and third broach. As a result, get this (photo No. 6).

We sew the "slopes" of the okat with a mattress seam. But since there are decreases along the okat itself, we stick the needles with an offset to the right or left by one loop, depending on whether we sew the right or left "slope", photo No. 7. As a result, it looks like this, photo No. 8.