Short handmade wrap jacket. Pattern of a quilted demi-season jacket. What fabric to sew a windbreaker? Velveteen Care

Even if there are still frosts ahead, we will begin to prepare for spring.

We sew a light jacket on a synthetic winterizer. (although it can be made warmer if desired.)

We will sew something like this:
This, of course, is a down jacket, but ours will be even more beautiful.

We will not suffer with a stitch of fabric, there are a lot of fabrics already quilted on a synthetic winterizer on sale. Beautifu...

When choosing a fabric, pay attention to whether there is a thin interlining between the main upper fabric and the padding polyester. If there is, then very good. The synthetic winterizer will not climb to the surface.
It's rare, but it happens.

We need fabrics: jacket length + sleeve length + 20 cm for hem and seam allowances. If your size is from the 50th, then add another 15-20 cm to the collar.

I still did not manage to buy already quilted fabric, we will quilt ourselves.
ready-made ones were either expensive: 2,500 rubles a meter, or lining fabric was fastened onto a synthetic winterizer. It was passed off as a "jacket" at 650 rubles per meter.

Raincoat fabric for stitching needs a thin one.
The girls asked about natural fabrics. They are usually denser and quilted for insulation will "stand". Natural jacket fabrics are more suitable for men's jackets and for sewing parkas.

So my expenses are:

raincoat fabric (250 rubles per meter) - 1.5 m
synthetic winterizer (60 rubles per meter with a width of 1.5 m) - 2 m (just in case, 1.7 m is also possible)
The main fabric is obtained for 540 rubles.

You will also need lining fabric.
Take the usual synthetic, inexpensive, durable, which does not break apart in your hands. As much as raincoat fabrics.

If the fabric is an unusual color, the tone of which is difficult to match the zipper, then first find a suitable zipper, and then adjust the length of the jacket to fit it.
If the jacket is black, white, gray, etc., then it will be easier to pick up a zipper for it.
We will buy later, the right size.
When the jacket is long, it is convenient if the zipper has 2 sliders. When you sit down, you can unfasten the bottom.

The synthetic winterizer is thinner, thicker - puffier. Note that the thicker the padding polyester, the puffier your jacket will be.
There is also a holofiber and some other insulating materials. Take any insulation, except for batting. With batting, the jacket will be unbearable.

We will quilt already cut out details.

There was a question about what threads are suitable for stitching. I saw on sale jacket fabrics quilted with thick threads, such as jeans are sewn. Beautiful.
But can you quilt just as beautifully?
Thick threads usually create problems when sewing. If you make a weak tension, then the loops on the front side of the fabric appear, if you make the tension stronger, it tightens the fabric.

So most likely we will quilt with the same threads as we sew.
I can't say for sure yet. I will open my jacket, try different threads for stitching, and then I will tell you.

Some girls asked about knitted cuffs on the sleeves. Not every city has ready-made cuffs for sale, you can, of course, knit them yourself, but I planned sleeves without cuffs.

Taking measurements

Tune in, taking measurements is a very important stage.

I remind you that you need to tie a cord or elastic band at the waist to fix the location of the waist line. We have a lot of measurements just from her.

To build a pattern for our quilted jacket, we need the following measurements:

1. Chest girth (measured horizontally through the most protruding points of the chest, the protrusion of the shoulder blades is taken into account on the back)

2. Waist circumference (horizontally at the narrowest point of the figure)

3. Girth of the hips (horizontally along the widest place of the hips through the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the protrusion of the abdomen)

4. Neck girth (horizontally along the base of the neck)

5. Shoulder length (measured from the line of intersection of the shoulder and the line of the circumference of the neck to the end point of the shoulder)

6. Shoulder girth (measured at the fullest part of the arm)

7. Width of the front (measured along the front between the armpits)

8. Back width (measured along the back between the armpits)

9. Length of the back to the waist (measured from the point of the beginning of the shoulder to the waistline).

10. Front length to waist (measured vertically along the front from the point of intersection of the base of the neck and the shoulder line through the most protruding point of the chest to the waist)

11. Side height (measured from the waist line to the armpit)

12. Sleeve length (measured on a slightly bent arm from the end point of the shoulder to the wrist)

13. Wrist circumference

14. Shoulder height oblique (measured along the back from the spine at the waistline to the extreme point of the shoulder)

15. The length of the product from the waist (measured from the waistline to the line of the desired length of the product)

The girls asked how to take measurements from themselves.

Difficult. Some measures are impossible at all. For example, back width.

Someone will have to ask.

Show the assistant a picture of how to take the desired measurement, and check the correctness of the execution in the mirror.

If you don’t tend to change your body size often (well, at least the length :))), then measurements taken once can be useful for sewing several things.

Building a pattern

I will not torment you with the theory of selection and calculation of increases for a jacket.

I offer ready-made figures. If you have doubts, or you are used to checking everything, then measure some ready-made jacket, the degree of fitting of which suits you. You can take your increment values.

In any case, increases and their distribution by standards are not constant. Only you determine what degree of freedom your jacket will have. Bigger gains give more freedom to fit, smaller gains will make the jacket fit more.

1. I suggest taking an increase in the chest (to the whole chest girth) from 15 to 20 cm. No more than 20 cm. If you take 20 cm, the jacket will be very loose.

2. An increase in the Girth of the hips - 10 - 15 cm. If you take a smaller increase in the chest, then take a smaller value for the hips.

3. An increase to the waist will turn out by itself, then you will see from the construction.

4. increase to the width of the back 4-5 cm, to the width of the chest - 3-4 cm.

About the rest of the increase, I write in the construction.

immediately write the increase in the measurement plate, so as not to get confused.

I do this: opposite the name of the measurement, I write the exact measurement from the figure, and next to it is a measurement with an increase and circle it.

And it is clear that when building we use a measure from a circle, and a measure from a figure is useful for checking or for building another pattern.

shelf

1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waistline. We sign so as not to get confused.

2. Stepping back from the right edge of the paper 5 cm, we put a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid front line.

3. We set aside from the waist up along this line of the middle of the front the measurement of Dtp + 1 cm, the so-called increase in the package - by the thickness of the quilted fabric (length of the front waist + 1 cm). Let's call the resulting point A3.

4. Draw a perpendicular to the point A3 to the left.

5. On this perpendicular, set aside the value (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Let's call the resulting point A4.

6. Down from point A3, set aside the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width. Point A5

We increase the neckline of the shelf in width and depth by 1.5 cm so that the collar does not sting :)

8. From the received point down, set aside 4 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. Let's call point 4.

9. We draw the line A4.4. Extend a little beyond point 4.

10. From the waist down along the line of the middle of the front, set aside the value (About (girth of the hips): 5).

We draw a perpendicular from the resulting point to the left. This is the hip line. We sign.

That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated by the formula (Ob: 5).

Back

1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value (Chest girth) plus the Increase in the chest: 2) (Og + Pg): 2.

Draw a perpendicular from the obtained point. This is the middle line of the back.

2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we set aside the measurement Dst + 2 cm, an increase due to the thickness of the quilted fabric (Length of the back to the waist + 2). We call the resulting point A.

3. Draw a perpendicular from point A to the right. Set aside the value on it (Osh (Girth of the neck): 6). Set point A1.

4. Down from point A set aside 2 cm. This is the depth of the neck.

After drawing the neck line, expand it by 1.5 cm. This is necessary for outerwear.

We increase the neckline of the back only in width by 1.5 cm. Leave the depth until trying on 2 cm.

5. From point A1 to the right, we postpone the measurement Dp plus 1 cm for a good fit and plus 1 cm for freedom (Shoulder length + 2 cm)

6. From this point down, set aside 3 cm for the bevel of the shoulder. We get point 3.

7. We draw the line A1,3. On it once again set aside the measurement Dp + 3 cm.

Build a tuck in the middle of the shoulder. The middle of the tuck is perpendicular to the line of the shoulder. Dart length 8-9 cm, tuck solution 2 cm.

8. We check whether the measurement corresponds to Vpk (Shoulder Height oblique) on the drawing. We measure from point Tc to point 3. If more, leave it like that until fitting. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the bevel of the shoulder (from the horizontal line of the shoulder, we do not set aside 3 cm down, but smaller. As much as you need according to your measure of the Vpk).

9. From the waistline, we set aside the measurement Wb (Height of the side). We draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let's sign the "line of the chest."

At the intersection of the line of the chest with the line of the middle of the front, we get the point Gp, at the intersection with the line of the middle of the back, we get the point Gs.

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.

Og (Chest girth) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. If your chest is not large, then for the jacket, I recommend making the front and back the same width. In the jacket, we need a fairly large increase in the back for freedom of movement.

For example, Og is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 16 cm.

It turns out (100+16):4=29. The width of the shelf will be 29 cm. The width of the back is also 29 cm.

We set aside the resulting values ​​along the line of the chest. Let's call the resulting point G3.

On the waist line, we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these details at chest level. This is a side cut. We will not make other darts - we have a belt tie. On quilted fabrics, stitched darts create more thickness.

We set aside the resulting values ​​\u200b\u200bin the waist line.

10. Calculate the width of the front and back along the hips.

It is calculated in the same way as for the chest: (About (Girth of the hips) plus an increase in the hips divided by 4). We postpone the resulting values ​​along the line of the hips.

For example: hip circumference 108 cm plus an increase of 10 cm = 118. 118 divided by 4 is 29.5.

Set aside from the point Bp 29.5 cm to the left along the line of the hips. Set aside from the point Bs 29.5 to the right along the line of the hips.

In the example, the hips are wider than the chest, so the drawing turned out to expand towards the hip line. If the hips are narrower than the chest, then there may be a narrowing of the side line to the hips.

We draw the line of the side, connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.

armhole line

11. On the line of the chest from the point Gp, set aside the value ((Chest width + Increase to chest width) divided by 2 (Wg + Pshg): 2) to the left. We put point G2. From this point, we draw a vertical up to the intersection with the line of the shoulder. This line is for our reference. We will specify the width of the shelf at this level at the fitting.

12. We draw by hand the line of the armhole of the shelf from point 4 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G2. So that the width of the chest is not Already measurements of the width of the chest + an increase in the freedom of fitting.

13. On the line of the chest from the point Gs, we set aside the value to the right (Width of the back + Increase to the width of the back divided by 2 ((Ws + Pshs): 2)).

14. We draw by hand the armhole line of the back from point 3 to point G3. The main thing is to make sure that this line does not go beyond the line from point G1. So that the width of the back is not Already measurements of the width of the back + an increase in the freedom of fitting.

All the pattern of the shelf and back is ready.

Necessarily! After construction, we check the drawing. We measure all widths and lengths and check with the measurements.

Take it easy, we're not in a hurry. The main thing is that we enjoy the process, praise ourselves more often and tell our loved ones how smart you are and what success you have already achieved.

Sleeve pattern

Trying on and the first exit in a ready-made thing are my favorite stages of tailoring things. The rest must be endured by necessity.

Please take your time. After building, carefully check everything. If something doesn’t fit or you don’t like it, check again if you calculated and drew everything correctly, and then write to me.

We build a sleeve.

1. Draw a vertical line. Point O is at the top.

2. From point O, lay down the measure of the Length of the sleeve (Druk) and draw a horizontal line through the resulting point. This is the bottom line of the sleeve.

3. From point O, we lay down the height of the sleeve.

eye height calculation:

We measure the length of the armhole of the shelf and back, divide the resulting figure by 3.

For a jacket, it is better to reduce this number by 2-5 cm, depending on the degree of “flattening” of the shoulder.

Look at the picture of our jacket, here the shoulder is considered “in place”, that is, not lowered.

If you decide to make a lowered shoulder, for example, by 2 cm (on the pattern you drew a shoulder 2 cm longer than your own), then reduce the height of the sleeve collar by 3 cm, etc.

We denote the resulting point O1, draw a horizontal line through it.

4. The sleeve width is equal to the Girth of the shoulder plus the increase (Op + P).

An increase in the width of the sleeve for a jacket from 10 cm. I took 10 cm for my jacket. You can’t wear a thick sweater. If you are going to wear your jacket on some bulky clothes, then measure the circumference of your arm in this clothing and add 10 cm to the resulting girth. You definitely can’t go wrong.

If the handle is full (more than 36 cm), then you can reduce the increase to 6 cm (this is the very minimum) so that the jacket looks better and does not make the figure look fat.

Set aside half in both directions from the line of the middle of the sleeve. We get points P and P1

5. We connect the points P and P1 with straight lines with the point O. The line P, O is the front part of the arm sleeve, the line P1, O is the back part of the sleeve arm. These lines are divided into 4 parts. The deflection in the middle between points P and n is 2 cm, we set point 2, between points n and O - 1.5 cm, we set point 1.5, etc.

6. We draw the curve of the sleeve ok (look at the drawing) through the points P, 2, p, 1.5, O and further O, 1.5, s, 1, P1

7. Bottom of the sleeve.

The circumference of the wrist (according to the measure) plus an increase of 10 cm is divided in half and set aside on both sides of the midline of the sleeve. We get points H and H1.

8. We connect the points P and H, P1 and H1.

9. We measure the line of the collar of the sleeve, check for compliance with the length of the armhole. The sleeve length should be 3-4 cm longer than the armhole, then the sleeve will “sit down” well.

We check the front part of the sleeve collar for compliance with the length of the armhole of the shelf, the back part of the collar of the sleeve is checked for compliance with the length of the armhole of the back. They, respectively, should be 1.5-2 cm longer than "their" parts of the armhole.

If the sleeve length is not enough, then check the height of the sleeve. If you consider it sufficient (correctly calculated, as I wrote to you above), then increase the width of the sleeve.

We sign the pattern: “Sleeve, 2 details” and apply the direction of the shared thread. It coincides with the line of the middle of the sleeve.

Building a stand-up collar

1. Construct a right angle at point O. Up from point O, set aside the height of the rack. For jackets from 5 centimeters. Point B

2. To the right, set aside the length of the collar (measure the length of the neck according to the drawing). Set point B2

3. From point B2, set aside 0-2 cm upwards, depending on the desired degree of fit of the rack. Set point B3.

If you take the number 0, then the collar will be visually slightly separated from the neck. If the number is 2, then the collar will fit more, as if inclined to the neck.

4. We draw a line for stitching the rack from point O to point B3

5. We draw a perpendicular to the stitching line from point B3. Set aside the height of the rack on it.

6. Draw the departure part of the rack

If it’s not entirely clear, then the blog has a video of building a stand-up collar for a shirt. First video.

The construction is the same, only the numbers are slightly different.

You can view it here:

Opening and stitch

The hardest part is over. Only pleasures remain

cutting

Before cutting, be sure to check the fabric for defects. It is ideal to do this even when buying or when receiving from a client. But before cutting, we examine the fabric again, suddenly something was missed or a new one appeared.

If you are worried that you may have built the pattern incorrectly, are afraid to ruin the fabric, then cut the jacket from unnecessary cheap fabric, from an old sheet, for example.

Try it on, make sure that the jacket still "fits" on you, that the sleeve sits in the armhole, etc., and only then cut your raincoat fabric.

We impose patterns on the fabric, observing the direction of the shared thread, the direction of the pattern (if any) and the pile, pin with tailor's pins.

We circle each pattern with chalk along the contour, we draw the second contour stepping back to the seam allowance.

Since the jacket is outerwear, and even with a padding polyester, and if you still quilt yourself, then allowances for seams along the shoulder, side seams, along the armhole, along the middle seam of the sleeve we make 2 cm, along the neck - 1-1.3 cm, allowance for hemming the bottom and bottom of the sleeve is at least 5 cm.

Cut out without unfastening the pattern from the fabric.

Small details must also be applied to the fabric, check that everything fits, but do not cut it out. During fitting, sometimes you have to change the length of the collar, and even the shape. It is better to cut out small details after trying on.

Stitch

For stitching, we draw on the front side of the cut details with a sharply sharpened remnant (chalk can be poorly peeled off the fabric) lines along which we will quilt. It can be rhombuses, squares, just horizontal or vertical lines. Do not invent a very complex pattern, it will be very difficult to quilt.

We impose a part, for example a shelf, on a synthetic winterizer and cut out a synthetic winterizer along the contour of the part with a small allowance, cm 2-2.5.

We chop off the detail of the cut and the synthetic winterizer along the contour and along the stitch lines quite often so that it does not move during work.

First, we lay a line along the contour of the part, stepping back from the edge of 4-5 mm, cut off the extra padding polyester along the edges, then we quilt the entire part along the pre-drawn lines.
The stitch length is maximum.

Fitting

I think everyone has already cut their jacket. Let's move on to the example.

For sampling you need:

1. Sweep the shoulder and side seams, the middle seam of the sleeve, sweep the sleeves. "Collect" the product.

2. we do not sweep the collar, pockets, cuffs, but we prepare at least patterns

Fitting

We pierce the product as it will be in finished form.

What you need to pay attention to when trying on:

1. The overall balance of the product.

We look to see if the shelf or back is overtightening. This may be the case if the measurements of the length of the back to the waist or the shelf to the waist are incorrectly taken.

2. The position of the shoulder seams.

We look if the line of the shoulder seam goes too far to the shelf or back

3. Shoulder length.

The length of the shoulder should be proportional to the silhouette of the product (a loose silhouette corresponds to an elongated shoulder)

4. Shoulder height

We look for diagonal folds in the shoulder area, which disappear if the shoulder is raised.

5. Neckline

The fabric should not "run" around the neck.

The neckline should not be too large, but it should not be tight either.

6. Side seams.

They should be vertical unless the model says otherwise.

7. The degree of fit of the product in the area of ​​the chest, waist and hips.

Perhaps we are talking to the client.

8. The width of the product at the level of the measurements of the width of the chest and the width of the back.

Move a little to determine the degree of freedom in this area.

9. Bottom of the product.

We check the horizontality of the bottom line, if the model does not intend otherwise.

10. Sleeve fit.

See if the sleeve fits well. I point out the diagonal creases on only one side of the sleeve to the incorrect fit of the sleeve.

Check if the sleeve height matches the armhole. The height of the eyelet needs to be changed if it has diagonal creases on both sides.

11. We specify the length of the product and the length of the sleeve.

12. We specify the shape and size of the collar by applying a pattern.

13. Refine the shape and size of the pocket and flaps. If it is a consignment note, we pin the pocket pattern in place, if it is welt, we simply mark it with lines.

We mark all changes, stabbing with tailor's pins, we additionally do

clarifying notes.

We make changes to the cut according to the pinned pins and according to the notes that you made during

sample time.

The second fitting is necessary if the figure or model of the jacket is complex, and after the first fitting it is not clear whether the product will fit well after making changes to the cut.

The second fitting is carried out in the same way as the first.

basics

After trying on, we make adjustments to the cut. We mark the location of the pockets.

The site has a video fitting of another jacket, see if it can be useful in some way:

I decided to simplify - we will make a pocket just with a piece of paper, without a zipper.

Such a pocket can be made on both shelves below, and as an internal one - on a lining in the chest area.

Be sure to practice making a pocket on a piece of fabric. Do 1,2,3 pockets for training until you get a good one.

The width of the pocket (leaves) in finished form is 2 cm, length - 14-15 cm for a women's jacket, 16-17 cm for a man's. The main thing is that the hand freely enters the pocket.

We need to cut out:

a piece of paper (a rectangle from the main fabric of the fabric is 4 cm longer than the entrance to the pocket and 6-7 cm wide),

valance (rectangle from the main fabric of the same size as the leaflet), pocket burlap (from lining fabric, can be from the main one)

Glue the leaflet with glue.

1. draw the entry point to the pocket:

width, pocket length and midline (turquoise line)

2. on a piece of paper and on a valance at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, draw lines of stitching

3. from the side of the middle of the shelf, attach a leaflet to the midline face to face, from the side - a gap

3. Sew leaflet and valance

4. make a cut along the midline not reaching 1-1.5 cm to the end of the lines, at the ends - obliquely to the corners (pink line on the pocket marking)

Be careful not to cut to the last stitch 1-1.5 mm, so as not to damage the thread

5. turn the valance and leaflet on the wrong side, sweep the leaflet, folding it to the desired width - up to 2 cm

6. sew 1 piece of pocket burlap to the leaflet (into the seam of attaching the leaflet to the shelf)

7. unscrew and sweep the burlap as it will be in finished form, sharpen the pocket in the face from the side where the leaves are attached (for fastening and finishing). You can lay a line stepping back 1-2 mm, you can use the foot.

8. sew 2 piece of pocket burlap - to the free edge of the valance

9. fasten the injections (according to the width of the pocket), which we got when notching to the corners, with a line, as if to attach them to a piece of paper

10. stitch pocket burlap details

11. Sew the remaining 3 sides of the pocket

Even if you do not make welt pockets on your jacket, learning how to make this pocket will be very useful to you.

Top sewing. Lining

The jacket is sewn simply:

1. stitching the shoulder seams

2. sew the top collar into the neck of the jacket

3. attach a zipper to both shelves

4. we sew the sleeve into the armhole

5. we grind the side seam and at the same time the seam of the sleeve

Lining

The lining is cut out according to the same pattern as the top of the jacket, minus the bands and back facing (I highlighted them in pink).

From the main fabric we cut out the selection and facing of the back

From the lining - the rest

The seam allowances at the shoulder, side seams and on the lined sleeve are the same as on the top of the jacket.

On the bottom, the seam allowance is 1.5 cm, on the bottom of the sleeve - 3-4 cm

1. stitching the pick to the shelf

2. we sew the facing of the back to the part of the back

3. we stitch the shoulder seams on the lining

4. we sew the lower collar (from the main fabric) into the neck of the lining

5. we sew the sleeve into the armhole of the lining

6. we grind the side seam of the lining and at the same time the seam of the sleeve

On the lining in the chest area, you can make a pocket. You can invoice or not be too lazy and make a welt with a leaflet, such as I described in the last post.

Jacket is ready!

Stop being lazy, let's finish the jacket. I have walked mine a couple of times.

Here's what happened

And here is how the lining is sewn to the top of the jacket:

1. We fold the upper part of the jacket and the lining face to face, grind along the middle of the shelf, where the zipper is, and along the collar. We lay the finishing line (stepping back on the foot) along the zipper and along the flyaway part of the collar.

2. We turn the sleeve inside out, straighten the lining on the sleeve. If necessary, cut the lining of the sleeve, it should be the same length as the sleeve in the finished tucked form.

3. We process the bottom of the sleeve to a hem with a closed cut (tuck 1 cm, tuck another as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.

4. We sew the upper and lower collars together along the seam allowance (the one between the collar and the neckline)

5. We attach the lining to the top in the shoulder area.

6. We process the bottom of the jacket in a hem with a closed cut (tuck it 1 cm, tuck it in as much as you left for the hem). The lining is simply inserted into the collar.

Jacket is ready!

Here is the back view without the belt

Here with a belt

My mannequin, unlike me, has a size 2-3 chest. In my opinion, this jacket fits him perfectly without any darts. So this cut seems to be suitable for both thin and curvy girls.

P.S. Girls! All questions about the cut and tailoring of this jacket you can ask the author of the article Elena Kucherova

How to sew a windbreaker with your own hands? How to make a windbreaker pattern yourself? Master class: how to sew a women's unlined windbreaker jacket will step by step show the entire sewing process with a full description. You can sew a light velveteen windbreaker with a hood for spring very quickly. Just do everything according to the instructions, and sewing a summer windbreaker with your own hands will be as easy as shelling pears!

To sew a windbreaker, you will need:

1. Corduroy fabric with a width of 150.0 cm (or other fabric of your choice) = windbreaker length + sleeve length + 20.0 cm.
2. Knitted fabric on the hood = length of the hood + 10.0 cm.
3. Buttons - 8 pcs.
4. Cord - 50.0 cm.
5. Tips for the cord - 2 pcs.
6. Threads - 4 pcs.
7. Adhesive fabric - 20.0 cm.
8. Sewing accessories.

It all started with the fact that one day I bought the last piece of velveteen at the wholesale fabric warehouse. I wasn't exactly sure what I wanted to make out of it. But this fabric caught my attention that the idea to sew just a windbreaker came to mind by itself. I wanted to make a windbreaker with a hood, in a sporty style, with decorative seams and double finishing stitches. And now I see that I made the right choice.

As always, the fabric sat in my inventory for a long time before being reborn into something special. And then one day it happened! I made up my mind and cut the vest. Why a vest? Because the original idea was to sew a country-style vest and a skirt. But since I didn’t want a simple banality at all, I decided to dilute the suit with a viscous one.

I knitted the trim with my own hands, not specifically for the costume. I'll tell you a secret, these were the sleeves and the belt for my denim jacket. I wanted to somehow diversify the old jeans, but the result did not please me. So the knitted details lay idle. And then I think: “I’ll put the Dyke into action, and it suits the color!”. By the way, take a look at my master class:.

Some time later, I remembered my forgotten project and decided to finish the job. This time my suit has undergone a number of changes: sleeves, a collar and a hood have appeared. So a jacket turned out of a vest or in another way: a summer, sports windbreaker jacket with your own hands. Has this happened to you? In my opinion, it turned out much better than the original idea.

Model review: Women's windbreaker jacket with a hood for spring

Women's windbreaker semi-adjacent silhouette due to reliefs on the shelf and back. Curly coquettes in front and behind, set-in turn-down collar with a hood made of dense jersey. Fastening with buttoned straps, stitched belt at the bottom. Two-seam set-in sleeves with stitched cuffs on the bottom with buttons. The jacket is light without lining, the seams are double-stitched, the cuts are swept over with an overlock. Skirt on a lining with a stitched belt on an elastic band.

Buttons were chosen specifically for silver with the image of an eagle. Tips for a cord of a hood under buttons. At first glance, sewing a velvet windbreaker may seem difficult. Believe me, sewing a women's windbreaker with a hood with your own hands is simple and fast. Also, how to sew a light, unlined women's jacket yourself.

What fabric to sew a windbreaker? Velveteen Care

As I mentioned earlier, I bought a velvet fabric for a summer windbreaker, which is called a "rib".

1. The composition of the material is cotton and elastane. Cotton allows the body to breathe and keeps its shape, while elastane makes the product elastic. This means that a women's windbreaker jacket will not create discomfort when moving.
2. Natural fabrics wrinkle a lot, but if you add elastane, wrinkling will decrease.
3. Velveteen is a pile fabric, so in cool weather it keeps you warm.
4. Due to the tight weave of the threads, it does not let the wind through.
5. Cotton corduroy clothes can also be worn in warm weather and are not afraid of overheating.
6. Cotton is hygroscopic and does not retain moisture.
7. In addition, cotton is hypoallergenic, which does not cause irritation and itching on the skin.
8. Due to the direction of the pile, velvet products have a pleasant sheen that shimmers when moving.
9. Cotton corduroy shrinks after washing, so it should be well decanted before cutting.
10. During ironing, the pile on the fabric can be taken:
    • place a terry towel or piece of similar fabric on the ironing board;
    • it is better to iron from the wrong side so that the pile lies on a rough surface;
    • if you are ironing the product from the front side, add more steam without touching the fabric with an iron;
    • try to iron the finished product in a vertical position with steam;
    • if the pile is crumpled after ironing, it can be restored with a brush with fine bristles.
11. It is recommended to wash corduroy at low temperatures of 30-40 degrees (when machine washing) with the “delicate wash” function:
    • at the same time, turn off the drying, otherwise the pile will be damaged, and the product will shrink;
    • after washing, straighten and dry away from sunlight, so as not to spoil the pile.
12. Velvet quickly absorbs dust “like a vacuum cleaner”, so it needs to be given special care:
    • things from velveteen can be cleaned of dust by hand;
    • make a soapy solution with a sponge and walk over the entire surface.
13. Due to the loose structure, the velveteen pile is quickly crushed, especially on the elbows, folds, back, losing its luster.

To restore the pile:

• clean the thing from dust;
• make a light solution of ammonia and water (1. tbsp. Ammonia per 5-6 liters of chilled boiled water);
• soak the product for 10-15 minutes, remove and dip in a soapy solution with foam;
• rinse (do not rub or shove);
• remove without squeezing and rinse in clean water;
• take it out and lay it on a soft towel;
• wrap in a towel to absorb moisture;
• hang on hangers and pull at the seams to restore shape;
• express cleaning: to refresh velveteen clothes, you can use the usual wide adhesive tape and a brush.

What material is the windbreaker made of?

1. Products made of velveteen natural fabric wrinkle well, so first decide on the model.
2. Also, when choosing a fabric, pay attention to its composition.
3. In addition, corduroy has several types: cord, hem and shaped corduroy.
4. When buying, make sure that the material suits you and will not fill you up.
5. Despite the problems in wearing and care, whatever one may say, velveteen looks noble.
6. It adapts perfectly to everyday wear.

Pattern of a women's windbreaker with a description

Here you will learn how to cut a windbreaker jacket with your own hands according to the basic pattern.

How to cut velveteen

Corduroy is cut in one direction, while the pile is directed from the bottom up. Thanks to this, the product acquires an unobtrusive play of light. If you cut out the finishing pieces in opposite directions, they will change the shade. This option can be used for combined models.

A pattern of a women's windbreaker with a hood, you can do it yourself simply and quickly at home. You will need a basic pattern of the right size: a shelf with a chest tuck, a back (to the waist) and a sleeve. The hood pattern can be translated from a sports jacket.

Transfer the basic pattern to paper, which was convenient to model. Apply on the front and back, coquettes and reliefs. First cut off the coquettes, then the reliefs. On the yoke of the shelf, close the chest tuck. Distribute the remaining chest tuck into reliefs. To make the jacket fit, make darts along the reliefs and reduce along the side seams.

Windbreaker pattern layout on fabric

1. Lay the fabric on a flat surface with the right sides inward, with the edges facing you.
2. Lay out the details of the pattern and apply allowances:
   • along the side seams - 2.0 cm;
   • on reliefs, middle seam, yoke, shoulder seams and armholes - 1.5 cm;
   • on the bottom, neck, fastener in front - 1.0 cm;
   • around the sleeves - 1.5 cm;
   • at the seams - 1.5 cm;
   • on the bottom - 1.0 cm.
3. On the sleeve, mark the center at the top and bottom of the eyelet.

I modeled the sleeve and cut it out immediately on the fabric, this simplifies the work.

4. Cut out a hood from knitted fabric (optional).
5. Cut out the details of the cut with all allowances, transfer the chalk lines to symmetrical details (this can be done using a chalk board and a cutter).

Preparing for the first fitting

Sweep reliefs on the back and shelf. Stitch the center lines on the shelves with copy stitches. Baste yokes, baste side and shoulder seams. Sweep right sleeve.

If you don't like my windbreaker model with knitted inserts, you can replace them with a similar fabric or something else.

How to make the first fitting of a women's windbreaker

• put on a windbreaker jacket on the figure;
• send allowances;
• chip off the shelves in the center, aligning the bottom and top;
• adjust the volume of the product due to the side seams, and if necessary, reliefs;
• pay attention to the position of the shoulder seam and the yoke in front;
• if the armhole bulges strongly, then you need to pick up the seam of the coquette, and then the shelf will acquire a clear outline of the chest;
• if a bubble has formed on the back, the excess can be taken away, also in the seam of the coquette;
• then align the bottom with the floor;
• specify the length of the windbreaker, taking into account the stitched belt;
• insert the sleeve into the armhole on the right side, aligning the center of the sleeve with the shoulder seam;
• adjusts the sleeve in width and length, taking into account the stitched cuff;
• deepen the neck and armhole (if necessary);
• split the shelves and carefully remove the product so that the pins do not fall out.

How to sew a women's windbreaker with your own hands step by step

A complete description of sewing an unlined velveteen windbreaker at home.

Making changes after the first fitting

Lay out the product and mark with chalk where the pins are chipped. Remove the pins, loosen the shoulder seams and yokes.

How to sew all the details of a women's windbreaker

Stitch the seams on the back and shelves, overcast the sections with an iron. In my case, it was not possible to overcast the reliefs with a flat iron on the shelves due to the thickness of the knitting. Therefore, it was necessary to overcast vrazutyuzhku.

Iron the relief allowances on the back towards the middle seam, on the shelves towards the insert. On the front side, lay double finishing stitches along the seams. To make the seam take on a pronounced look, lay the lines in 2 threads. Place two spools of thread on top and pass through the needle, so the seam will be tight and embossed.

Baste and stitch the yoke on the back and shelves.

Overcast the cuts, iron the seams up on the yoke and topstitch the seams.

To get a clear angle when connecting the coquettes, put cuts in the corners of the seams.

Modify the side seams (if any), stitch, overcast and iron the seam allowances.

Met unfamiliar words? Then refer to and .

Clasp processing

• the width of the strap depends on the diameter of the button, the approximate width of the strap is 3.5 - 4.0 cm in finished form;
• in a cut, the width of the strap ((3.5 - 4.0) + 1.0) X 2, where 1.0 cm is an allowance;
• strap length \u003d length from the neck of the shelf to the bottom;
• there are 2 pieces of trim in total, they are cut out in the direction of the pile of the jacket.

From the wrong side, glue half the width of the planks with an adhesive cloth. Fold the strips in half lengthwise and iron.

Stitch the strips to the shelves from the side of the adhesive pad, with a seam width of 1.0 cm.

Trim the slat allowance to 0.2 cm to avoid thickening of the seams.

Go around the seams with the strips, bend the cuts by 1.0 cm and bast, overlapping the seam of attaching the strips by 0.1 - 0.2 cm. Iron the strips and lay the finishing stitches.

Before sewing finishing stitches, turn over the corners at the top of the overlap strips. Make 1.0 cm cuts in the center of the strips, and turn the corners to cuts with a seam width of 1.0 cm.

Windbreaker lining

• lay out the base of the jacket on the table;
• chop together the side seams, reliefs and coquettes;
• straighten the product and fix it with pins around the necks, shoulder cut and armholes;
• align the armhole with chalk dots, as well as the neck and bottom (if necessary);
• apply allowances, cut off excess;
• measure the armhole and neck (without shoulder allowances), for comparison with the sleeve and collar pattern.

Split the pins, double stitch the shoulder seams, overcast the edges, iron on the back and lay the finishing stitches.

Trimming details

At this stage, you can make a second fitting of the jacket. Cut out the collar template from mock-up fabric, sweep the hood and make a second fitting.

How to cut a jacket collar

Cut out the collar from the main fabric, taking into account the direction of the pile. I cut out according to a ready-made template, which I always use. If there is enough fabric, I make a collar with a fold in one piece. Before cutting the collar, I first measure the lower cut of the collar and compare it with the size of the neck. The collar is 1.0 cm larger than the neckline - for landing (1.0 cm for half size). The collar template can be reduced / added in the center directly on the fabric. Collar allowances 0.7 - 1.0 cm. Glue half the width of the collar (top collar) with adhesive fabric for dimensional stability.

Overstitch collar edges 0.7 cm.

Turn the collar right side out, straighten the corners, baste the piping and lay the finishing stitches along the collar.

How to sew a hood

Stitch the seam of the hood, it is best to do this on a carpetlock with a knitted seam. If there is no carpet, then stitch and overcast as usual.

Sweep the hood into the neck.

Stitch the collar and hood with one seam.

Overcast the cut, baste the allowance for the product.

On the front side, fasten the allowance with a stitch to the width of the foot.

How to sew a belt to a jacket

The belt is cut out in the same pile direction as the product. The length of the belt is equal to the girth of the jacket along the bottom + 2.0 cm for turning. Belt width from 4.0 - 5.0 cm, + 2.0 cm (allowances). Glue half the width of the belt with an adhesive cloth. Iron the belt in half lengthwise.

If you do not have enough fabric for a one-piece belt, it can be made from several parts. It is recommended that the waist seams line up with the middle and side seams.

Fix the belt with pins to the lower cut of the product and sew on 1.0 cm, from the side of the adhesive pad.

Stitch the ends of the belt and straighten the corners.

Sweep the free cut of the belt, as when processing the slats.

Lay along the belt double, finishing lines.

Sleeve processing

In this section, you will learn how to process the set-in sleeves in the product.

How to make a clasp on a sleeve

Stitch the elbow seams on the sleeves to the zipper (zipper opening 10.0 - 12.0 cm).

If you did not manage to leave an allowance for processing the fastener. It's not a problem! Now I'll show you how to fix it. Cut out strips from the main fabric with a length = fastener length + 3.0 cm, width 2.0 cm.

Overcast the elbow seam allowance with a crimp (like a slot) so that the raw cut of the strips falls under the welt.

Before you work the seams on the sleeves, first check the measurements of the armhole. I make an eyelet larger than the armhole by 3.0 cm, in extreme cases 4.0 cm. It depends on the drape of the fabric: the softer and looser the fabric, the better the eyelet is sewn. The denser and stiffer the fabric, the more difficult it is to sew an okat. Therefore, with soft tissues, I choose a larger value, with hard tissues, a smaller one. The exception is when the girth of the arm in the shoulder area requires additional freedom (in large sizes).

How to make a cuff on a jacket sleeve

The cuff is cut out in the same way as a stitched belt: width = belt width, length = sleeve width at the bottom + 2.0 cm (for allowances).

Number of cuffs - 2 pcs.

The processing of the cuffs and the bottom of the sleeve is the same as the processing of the stitched belt along the bottom.

The most comfortable outerwear for the off-season is a jacket. Short or long, light or with padding, fitted or free cut - it goes perfectly with classic trousers and jeans, midi skirt, maxi, dress. The main thing is to like it and be in size. You can combine these two requirements if you sew the women's jacket itself. This is what we'll do.

What fabrics are used to make women's jackets?

Jackets can be sewn from natural, mixed and synthetic fabrics.

• 100% tight and doesn't drape well. It is suitable for parkas and men's jackets.
• or, as it is called, cotton is ideal for creating a casual look.
• Jackets with a water-repellent top layer will be indispensable in rainy weather.
• (artificial or natural). Such products are worn by both business women and bikers.
• used in winter coats.

We have different types of fabrics. And a huge selection of raincoats - from thin to with fur on the wrong side.

In addition to the material, it will be needed if the sleeves are supposed to fit the arm, buttons or buttons, insulation, zipper, lining material and adhesive fabric to stabilize the collar, collars, pocket flaps, etc. All accessories are available in the Textile store.

We sew a jacket on our own

If you already know how to build the basis of a shoulder product, then the pattern of a women's jacket will turn out to be more accurate, because you substitute your parameters. The main thing is not to forget about allowances for freedom of fitting. For winter clothes, they are somewhat larger than for autumn. You will see their values ​​in the table.

And also how to use them to adjust a perfectly fitting base.

If you have not yet mastered the method of building a pattern by the standards, you can draw it by numbers. This pattern is shown for two sizes 48 and 50. Remember to add free fit and compare your measurements with the numbers indicated on the drawing.

Or one for size 42-44.

If it is a winter women's jacket, it should have a layer of insulation and lining (usually quilted with padding polyester). Therefore, it is better to add a large allowance, and then correct and cut off, than to worry that the product is small.

How to sew a jacket?

Step by step looks like this.

1. From the lining and fabric for the top, cut out the back, sleeves, shelf (shelf from the lining fabric minus the bands, they must be cut out from the main fabric).
2. Collar, strap on the shelf, pocket (if invoice) - from the main material.
3. Shoulder seams.
4. Attach the hem to the shelf, folding it with the right sides and inserting a zipper and a bar between them.
5. If the shelf consists of 2 parts, sew them together and sew the outer seam along the relief.
6. Turn to the face and stitch to the edge along the bar. On the other part of the shelf, where there is no strap, make a stitch along the zipper.
7. Mark the pockets and, having folded the pocket, stitch it to the edge to the shelf.
8. Side seams.
9. Fold the 2 parts of the collar face down and stitch, leaving the part that is sewn to the neckline unsewn.
10. Turn out, iron out, topstitch to the edge.
11. Sew a collar into the neck.
12. Run the seams on the sleeves.
13. Aligning the top point on the hem with the point on the shoulder seam, sew the sleeve into the armhole.
14. Sew cuffs from the same fabric or garter to the sleeves.

We do all these operations from the lining fabric, with the exception of the bands, straps, collar, pocket and collar sewing.

Insert the lining into the main fabric and sew them:

• selection to the shelf;
• turn inside out and sew the lining with the collar to the collar, inserting a tab that will serve as a hanger.

It remains to hand hem the sleeves from the lining to the cuffs and the bottom of the jacket.

Now iron the product and you can wear it.

The technology of sewing jackets on syntapon. How to sew a jacket with synthetic winterizer insulation was told by Leno using the example of a jacket for a boy. Materials: Raincoat fabric, synthetic winterizer, fleece (as a lining), ribbing for cuffs, two zippers for pockets 15 cm long, detachable zipper (length depends on the length of the product), blocks and a cord. You will need a jacket pattern. It can be built using any of the methods or you can take it ready-made in a magazine. Calculate the fabric consumption yourself, based on your size. Tailoring technology Cut out all the details of the jacket from raincoat fabric, synthetic winterizer and fleece. Fold the parts from the raincoat fabric with the corresponding parts from the synthetic winterizer, connect both layers with basting oblique stitches. Attach the details from the raincoat fabric to the details from the synthetic winterizer with a machine stitch, quilting them in the form of stripes, or select a different stitch pattern. Sew the coquettes to the shelves, sew the details of the hood, stitch the seams. Cut out the facings for the pockets from the raincoat fabric, stitch the entrance to the pocket on them. It must match the length and width of the zipper. Baste and stitch the facings to the shelf at the locations of future pockets. Cut the entrance to the pocket, to the corners - obliquely, close to the line. Cut off the padding from the seam allowances to reduce their thickness. Turn the facing inside out, baste with bias stitches, and sew the zipper into the pocket entry. On the wrong side, baste the fleece pocket burlap. And stitch them into the zipper sewing seam on the front of the jacket. Sew the burlaps together and sew along the short sections of the pocket entrance. Fasten the short sections on the front side. Sew and topstitch the shoulder seams. Sew the hood to the neck, and baste the seam towards the hood. Take on the zipper. Sew the raincoat fabric to the sides of the fleece shelves. Baste the collar to the zipper, stitch and baste with bias stitches. Sew the shoulder seams and hood seams on the fleece pieces. Attach a 5 cm wide strip to the hood for the cord drawstring, it will protect the cord from clinging to the padding polyester. Punch cord blocks. Pair the hood with the fleece lining. Baste the seam of the fleece neck to the seam of the neck of the jacket and sew: exactly in the seam, on the front side of the jacket. Fold a strip of raincoat fabric in several layers, and sew a hanger, sew it into the neckline seam in the center of the back. Remember to pin the layers together at the seams inside the hood with a few hand tacks. This will prevent the lining from turning inside out when worn. To avoid warping with pins, cut off the lined hood. Sew the hood lining to each stitch along the seam where the hood is sewn into the neckline. Sew sleeves into jacket and lining. Sew each side seam and sleeve seam with one stitch on the jacket and on the lining. From the knitted fabric, cut the cuffs of the desired width, sew a vertical seam, fold in half, and overcast the upper circular cut on the overlock. Baste the cuffs to the bottom of the jacket sleeve, slightly stretching the knit and fitting the sleeve, then stitch. Sew the lining by hand to the stitching seam. Baste and stitch the hem of the bottom of the jacket. Attach the lining to the jacket along the shoulder seams and bottom of the armholes from the inside with hand, loose stitches. Pin the jacket to the lining with pins to prevent shifting, and sew the bottom of the lining to the jacket with invisible hand stitches. Insert the cord into the drawstring using a needle covered with tape, (photo) a simple pin will not go into the hole of the block. Attach cord ends or tie knots.

Russian size	Bust	Waist	Hip girth
size 40, height 168 cm	80	62	86	Payment for goods Buy
size 42, height 168 cm	84	65	92	Payment for goods Buy comment = "42 female"
size 50, height 168 cm	100	82	108	Payment for goods Buy
size 52, height 168 cm	104	85	112	Payment for goods Buy
size 54, height 168 cm	108	88	116	Payment for goods Buy
size 58, height 168 cm	116	97	124	Payment for goods Buy
size 60, height 168 cm	120	101	128	Payment for goods Buy

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Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Pattern Composition:

The quilted jacket fits well with front and back reliefs. The originality of the model lies in a technically well-thought-out oblique shelf with a bar covering the zipper. Collar - high rack "on the smell", is an excellent alternative to a scarf in windy weather.

Difficulty level - above average. Practical skills and experience in sewing skills are required.

Pattern measurements sample sizes (measurements of unpublished sizes are determined as the arithmetic average between adjacent sizes):

To sew a quilted jacket, prepare the necessary materials:
. jacket or raincoat fabric;
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 150 g/sq. m (thickness 1.5-2 cm);
. non-woven fabric synthetic winterizer with a density of 100 g/sq. m (thickness 1-1.5 cm);
. detachable zipper tractor - 1 pc.;
. interlining for duplication;
. fasteners or Velcro;
. lining fabric.

Clarifications: different density of synthetic winterizer is needed to distribute the density of seams and freedom of movement. On the details of the sleeves and collar, you need to quilt the fabric with a synthetic winterizer of a lower density.

To make a practical fastener, take a high-quality tractor or spiral zipper. For the lining, you can take a fabric of your choice: fleece, quilted insulated lining, viscose, polyester.

Pay attention to an important point! Evaluate the real possibilities of your sewing machine. Not every stationary unit will adequately cope with a fabric stitch on a dense padding polyester. Pay attention to the jacket fabrics of the finished sample, you may be able to immediately buy ready-made quilted fabric. Then for the leaflets it is necessary to choose non-quilted material to match the main one.

Stitch

Let's deal with the most important starting point right away. The stitch can be done on a single piece of fabric or on separate pieces. The main fabric is superimposed over the padding polyester so that its edges protrude a few cm along the perimeter. This is difficult, as it is necessary to draw the surface with precise lines at an equal distance.

The second way is easier. The cut parts must be laid out on a synthetic winterizer, fastened with pins and stitched perpendicular lines, periodically checking the coincidence of the stripes on adjacent cut parts. The quilted parts should be stitched around the perimeter and cut out, leaving a small gap in the padding polyester - about 0.5-1 cm.

cutting

From main fabric:
- the central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold;
- back side - 2 children;
- a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
- the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 item;
- the central part of the shelf to the line of half skid (marked as a dotted line) - 1 child;
- the cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 item;
- strap - 1 child. with a fold;
- collar - 2 children. with a fold;
- sleeve - 2 children;
- leaflet with a fold - 2 children;
- burlap - 2 children;

From sintepon:
. the central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold;
. barrel back - 2 children;
. a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
. the central part of the shelf with a beveled front cut - 1 item;
. the central part of the shelf to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 child;
. the cutting part of the beveled front half to the half-skid line (marked as a dotted line) - 1 item;
. strap - 1 child. with a fold (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. collar - 2 children. with a fold (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. sleeve - 2 children. (from a thin synthetic winterizer);
. leaflet with a fold - 2 children. (from a thin synthetic winterizer).

From lining:

The central part of the back - 1 child. with a fold (+ step back from the fold 2 cm for the oncoming fold - for a loose fit on the back);
- back side - 2 children;
- a barrel of a shelf - 2 children;
- the central part of the shelf to the half-slip line (marked as a dotted line) - 2 children;
- sleeve - 2 children;
- burlap - 2 children;

When cutting out the parts, do not forget to add allowances for the seams and mark the notches for the correct alignment of the parts. Allowances for embossed seams, neckline, armhole - 1 cm, for side seams - 1.5 cm, placket and front center section - 1 cm, lower sections of the back and front, as well as sleeves - 3 cm. Mark the location of the pockets in the embossed seams immediately. Duplicate the leaves.

Operating procedure

1. Stitch details. How to do this is described at the beginning of the article in the thematic section.
2. Sew the center and side pieces of the back separately from the main fabric and separately from the lining. On the lining, immediately lay the central fold and fasten. Then do the same for the sleeves. Set aside the finished parts and proceed to the next operation.
3. Pockets. Stitch the side seams of the leaf, iron using steam. Take burlap from the main and lining fabric. Align the fabric burlap with the notches on the relief cut of the side of the shelf, applying the part “face to face”. Sew on 0.9 cm. Turn the seam towards the burlap, and fasten with a finishing stitch by 0.1 cm. Place the finished leaflet with an open cut on the front side of the central part of the shelf, sew on 0.9 cm. Stitch the sections of the burlap, iron using the steam function.
4. Stitch the relief seams of the side and central part of the shelf from the main fabric. Repeat the operation with the details of the lining. Make notches, not reaching 0.1-0.2 cm to the seam. Perform an OBE.
5. Duplicate the bar with interlining. Fold in half right side inward, and topstitch the top and bottom edges. Cut the allowances to 0.2-0.3 cm. Turn the bar inside out, straighten the corners and stitch the open cut with a 0.5 cm straight stitch. Sew the finished bar in the oblique half of the shelf.
6. Sew shoulder seams separately on main fabric and lining.
7. Stitch the sleeves from the main fabric, combining the control notches and evenly distributing the hem along the armhole. Repeat the operation with the details of the lining.
8. Lightning. Sew one half of the zipper to the cut-off part of the half-skid, folding the braid over the cut face to face. Sew the second part to the other half of the shelf.
9. Sew the bar to the beveled cut of the shelf, and with it the simulated “selection”, that is, cut off to the half-skid line with a zipper on the second side. Give the finishing line on the cut-off part.
10. Sew the details of the shelf with the lining. Give a finishing stitch along the zipper.
11. Sew the top edge of the collar, iron the seam. Then sew the side seams by folding the collar face to face. Cut off the allowances. Iron the collar with steam, then sew into the neckline. Perform an OBE.
12. Turn the product inside out, slightly open the seam of one sleeve on the lining. Sew the bottom sleeves of the main fabric and lining. Make a hem, sew with blind stitches. Iron.
13. Turn the jacket inside out and join the bottom edge of the lining and jacket with machine stitching. Secure the hem with blind stitches.
14. Turn the jacket inside out through the sleeve and stitch the ripped area 0.1-0.2 cm.
15. Sew Velcro or insert buttons to fix the oblique part of the shelf. Jacket is ready!

For this pattern:

The pattern for the site "Casket" was prepared by Anna Ivina.