Favorite beauty products of leading Russian makeup artists. How to fashionably wear makeup for a wedding this year - says makeup artist Anna Kartashova's husband

Anna Kartashova founded her makeup brush brand Annbeauty five years ago. Now the brand’s assortment includes several product lines, each of which allows girls of any level of preparedness to achieve perfect shading with one stroke. Anna told TrendSpace how it all turned out.

Brushes are the basis of makeup. Do you make your products in Japan?

Yes, our brushes are made in Japan. We make shapes and designs in Russia.

When did you decide you wanted your own brushes? It’s clear that you couldn’t find the ideal brushes for yourself - that’s how everyone starts, but why weren’t you satisfied with, for example, Hakuhodo and Koyudo, which many people use?

My brand appeared completely by accident. I am a brush collector and currently have over 500 brushes from different brands that I love. In Russia they only know Hakuhodo brushes, and have heard of Koyudo and Chikuhodo. Although, for example, Hakuhodo in Japan is not considered the best brand, but in Russia it is the most famous of the Japanese ones.

My husband decided to give me a gift. He was in Japan and bought me a collector's brush. There he met the president of the company. This is where our brush brand journey began.

Why did I decide to make my own brushes? Because I started working with low-quality, prickly brushes. But I only found out about this when I was painted with them myself.

Now, during the crisis, the client has become very demanding. Every makeup artist fights for the client. And the client will come to the one who has the best. Another good thing about white brushes is that they are unpainted, that is, hypoallergenic.

Please tell us about the mechanics of pricing.

We don't charge a lot of extra money. We are a young brand and we do not have a “name fee” as such, like Tom Ford, Armani and other well-known brands. We only have an online store, this allows us to reduce costs associated with logistics, etc.

We provide our customer with high quality and want to continue to maintain this level. I have a lot of ideas. I know what I want to do next.

I count on those people who value quality. For many, 2-3 thousand is already a large amount, but I like that people save up, buy, and then write pleasant reviews.

Your husband met the president of the company, you were given a brush, and then how did it all happen?

I thought through everything - the design, color, materials and shapes of the handle. Then there was testing of the logo paint on the handles. It always takes a long time. In total, more than 2 years passed from the first tests to the first brushes on sale.

What is the process of developing bristles and shapes for a brush?

In general, this process is quite individual. When you are a makeup artist with extensive experience, you roughly understand what exactly you need for your job. What are the shapes, density and quality of the pile? The rest is technical issues; it is important that the factory understands you and what you want to get from them in the end. This is where it gets really difficult.

How did Pat McGrath's team come to have your brushes?

I met Michael Renner, Pat McGrath's right hand, presented him with the brushes, and after that we started receiving orders from New York. When I was there at the presentation of Pat's golden makeup collection, I met Michael and met the whole team. At that time they had nine assistants, and most of them had my brushes.

Do you primarily make brushes for clients or for professional makeup artists?

I have four lines of brushes. Each of them is suitable for both personal use and professional makeup artists.

Can you tell us about the financial part of your business?

We did everything with the money my husband and I saved. At the start, we did not have investors, but as the brand developed and established, we received various offers.

How should you dry your brushes?

Regarding drying. Dry the brushes horizontally on a towel. The towel absorbs all the moisture, and the brush dries in two hours. Special oily cleaners are used to clean brushes.

Have you thought about creating a cosmetic line?

Of course, but I still don’t have enough money and time to implement this idea. Everything has its time.

Where to apply blush to get a lifting effect, and how to apply bronzer so as not to get a tanned zebra effect? Makeup artist Anna Kartashova shares her experience.

Makeup artist Anna Kartashova learned from the best: Scott Barnes (works with Jennifer Lopez), Val Garland (former art director of YSL), Michael Renner (works on Pat McGrath's team), Tyrone McHousen, Nick Lujan - you can name a dozen more names. She has already shared tips with us on how and how. Now Anya shares some of her favorite make-up techniques that may be useful to you.

To create the effect of sleek, healthy skin, Add a drop of liquid highlighter and/or bronzer to any tone or primer. The coverage will be light and the skin will be radiant. The same trick will help girls with combination and oily skin tame foundation with a dewy finish. Let's say they bought it - they got excited. The product gives the effect of an oil pancake. Mix it with a highlighter and instead of a greasy sheen you get a beautiful glow.

Concealer, which is usually applied only under the eyes, blend in a circular buffing motion with a small fluffy brush almost to the corners of the mouth.. Redness, blood vessels, and enlarged pores are usually concentrated in this area. Pay special attention to the area around the wings of the nose.

Don’t follow the rule too strictly: blush on the apples of the cheeks, concealer under the eyes, bronzer on the cheekbones. This makes the makeup look fragmented. Try to expand the boundaries and layer products on top of each other: blush on concealer, partly on bronzer. Highlighter - for blush. All this smoothly turns into a haze of shadows at the outer corners of the eyelids.

For a natural-looking bronzer, apply it like you're writing a "Z" on your temples, cheekbones, and jawline.

The main requirement for a bronzer is that it should not stain. It should be easy to shade and preferably have a satin finish. Anya’s favorite product is Hourglass.

To make your face look young and rested, blend the blush from the apples of your cheeks upward, towards the concealer area, and sideways towards your temples. It's like writing the letter "g". The result will be a lifting of the lower third of the face.

Schematically:

To highlighter looked like a highlight of the sun, and not a stripe that came out of nowhere, apply it to the cheekbones and along the temples. Imagine that you are drawing brackets: on the left side of the face - “<«, на правой – «>».

If you have a nose with a hump or a massive tip, do not apply highlighter to them. Light highlights appear more voluminous. Blend the highlighter just above and below the hump, and leave it bare. The advice for highlighting the entire back of the nose is very general and works in cases where this very nose is compact, straight or slightly upturned.

If you feel like you're not good at blending eyeshadow, try ditching the eyeshadow primer. Most of them cement the pigment so that it cannot be moved - no matter what the hands are, and no matter where the hands grow from. Use cream eyeshadow as a base. They even out skin color, create a background for makeup and do not interfere with blending powdery textures into a haze. My favorites are Charlotte Tilbury and Tom Ford.

Apply shadow to the entire moving eyelid. Many girls stop before reaching the crease. This makes the makeup expressionless. Feel the arcuate border of the mobile eyelid: place your fingers on the orbital bone. Feel free to fill the entire area below with shadows. Take them onto a brush, apply along the edge of the eyelash and in the center, and blend the remainder upward, right up to the border of the moving eyelid.

In the classic makeup scheme, the emphasis is on the outer corners of the eyes. Make a more modern version by highlighting the inner corners as well. This suits almost everyone - with the exception of girls with close-set eyes. The trick is to blend the shadows from the inner corner not to the bridge of the nose - but upward, to the subbrow arch. You can use bronze, brown, burgundy shades. But not blue or green. They can be mistaken for bruises :)

If you haven't gotten around to painting your lower eyelids yet (although it does make your eyes look bigger), use sculptor or bronzer instead of eyeshadow. They are lightly pigmented, so blemishes are not so noticeable. If you can already cope with this, try a more difficult task: line the edge of the eyelash with the shade of shadow that you like, and use the sculptor to blend the borders.

When the makeup is ready, move the fluffy brush over your face with fluttering movements to finally smooth out color transitions and remove excess and crumbling shadows. The main thing is without pressure. I always “clean” the skin of models and clients this way.

IN on your Instagram Anya shows how to hold and use different types of brushes correctly: where and with what movements to apply the sculptor, how to shade the shadows in the crease of the eyelid. Demonstrates, of course, on her own Annbeauty, but we believe these video guides are useful for everyone.

Works by Anna Kartashova:

Did you find any tips that were helpful to you?

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Japan vs China

“Let me start by saying that I am an absolute fan of brushes. Moreover, I collect them - I can even open an exhibition. Therefore, when they come to me and ask something about them, I tell them everything “from” to “to”. Do you know where the best quality brushes are? Worldwide only Japan knows how to do it well. Firstly, their mentality is this: they are workaholics, and if they do something, they do it very well and pass it on from generation to generation.

If we take, for example, the mentality of the Chinese, then it is important for them to do everything quickly. Moreover, they do not have the technology to properly assemble premium pile. And all this, of course, affects the brushes: the bristles often climb, prick, break, and the brush simply quickly becomes unusable.”

“That’s why the very concept of a brush is important to me; I would like people to understand the very meaning of this word. Due to proper assembly and high-quality bristles, such brushes seem to be able to paint themselves, and you don’t need to have any special skills to use them. It sounds incredible, but it’s true.”

Synthetic or natural hair - which is better?

“My favorite question. As a makeup artist with 18 years of experience, I answer: now I give preference to natural bristles, since “ideal” synthetics have not yet been invented.

I would like to note that animals do not suffer when making brushes from natural bristles: they are simply cut, this is a natural process.

However, there are still high-quality synthetics, but they are more expensive than a squirrel brush (and its bristles are considered the most expensive bristles - and all because it is more difficult to obtain than the fur of the same premium goat). In general, initially synthetic bristles were supposed to be an alternative to low-class goats - and they coped with this task. But synthetics cannot yet compare with premium-class pile: firstly, there are no such technologies, and secondly, the price is not the most affordable.”

“I have long wanted to make a synthetic line for my brand, but for several years now our Japanese colleagues have been saying that at the moment there is no synthetic hair that replicates the qualities and properties of natural goat hair. In my opinion, synthetic absorbs too much product and does not blend well. A makeup artist, of course, can do it, but an ordinary user will have to try very hard to achieve a good result.

But, you know, there is discord between goats and goats. It depends on many factors: build quality, pile class, fastening, glue and more. The Japanese, again, have the best quality of pile; they have a monopoly in this regard, because the rest do not buy such expensive pile. They (the Japanese) work with piles of class A, A+ and higher, which last more than seven years, and with proper care - even longer.”

Bonya from "House-2" and Anna

Anna born in the Far East. When she was seven, she moved with her family to her mother’s homeland - Chernigov. Dad is a former military man, major. Now he is a private entrepreneur. From the age of 13 she was a model, participated in shows, appeared on covers and in 2005 became the best model of the year in Chernigov. At the age of 19 she started working in Faberlic company, received the position of director and took 4th place among 600 directors in Ukraine. She organized her own studio, where she taught the basics of makeup. In 2008, I decided to change my life radically - I moved to Moscow. Now Anna is 25 years old. She is a Moscow makeup artist, a graduate of the School of Professional Makeup in Paris. Works with famous photographers. He sees the Moscow “behind the scenes” with his own eyes. Prepared models for shows “Fashion seasons in Ukraine”, For Pets magazine, made up the singer Victoria Daineko.

Carpet with stripes. And no diets

When Anna was 4 years old, there was a carpet at home. With stripes, She walked exactly along these stripes, imagining herself as a model. Famous as Claudia Schiffer. At the age of 13 I went to the first Chernigov model school "Paradise Service". But, alas, the training turned into a money scam. Then it happened agency "Anella". Here Anna learned to be a model. —

— How did your friends and parents react to modeling?

— The girls were jealous. The boys were proud. My parents treated it like a hobby.
Anna worked in modeling agencies "Anella" And "L-Models". Her photographs were published in magazines, even on several covers. Participated in competitions "Miss Chernigov-1999"(then she won Victoria Makienko), "Queen of Flowers". In 2005 she became the best model of the year in Chernigov. Did the girl torture herself with diets?
- Never. I don't like dystrophic girls. I was even embarrassed that I was so thin. And it's a shame. When I left the modeling business, I immediately gained weight. How can you look at the bones and say: “Bay, how beautiful!”?

— What qualities should a model have, and what qualities should a makeup artist have?
— The model must be disciplined and silent during filming. But the majority always tries to insert their two cents into the work of a makeup artist. Although they don’t understand anything about it. Therefore, a makeup artist needs to be persistent and loyal. Say “yes, yes, yes” and do as you see fit.
— Do you miss the modeling business?
- No. I didn’t like him for castings: they treat you like a thing, they say “thank you, we’ll call you” or “thank you, stay.” Terrible feeling! And I miss the podium. It was nice to walk around and show off clothes. I miss the adrenaline backstage: when we couldn’t find shoes, we wore the wrong clothes and forgot the performances. I also miss my female colleagues.

“Teachers are for show. I'm self-taught"

— I’ve always liked makeup. The impetus was given by classes at the Anella modeling school - they taught how to apply makeup correctly. Later, at Faberlic, two of my friends and I organized the Faber studio to teach the basics of makeup. But the idea was mine. There were branches in Chernivtsi, Kyiv, Chernigov and Nizhyn. There were no difficulties. Recruitment was carried out every month; there are always self-respecting women who want to learn how to be beautiful. When I worked at Faberlica, I had the opportunity to learn makeup from serious teachers who are known throughout Ukraine.

Anna was trained by makeup artists: Natasha Gotovets(Ukraine, made up for Pugachev, Zhirinovsky), Elena Dubrovina(Ukraine, chief makeup artist at Faberlic), Chiara Fantik(France, art director of “Nina Ritchie”), with a stylist from New York Funkhouser. But he considers this training more like “ticks” and “show-off” for Moscow.

— I can say about myself that I am self-taught. If I really love something, I develop in that direction. I got a serious basis from books. I watched the programs. I painted my girlfriends' proms. I practiced. And, probably, there must be talent. My mother draws well. Apparently it was passed on.

Get out of your comfort zone

— Why did you move to Moscow in 2008?
— Then I had a moral crisis. I dreamed of developing, but I didn’t know how. I wanted a stormy life. But in Chernigov and Kyiv nothing happened. There is a concept - “comfort zone”. If you are sheltered in it, then you are too lazy to do anything. Or you want to, but you don’t do it for a long time. For me, Chernigov was such a “zone”. Everything is there, but what next? Besides, I’m a woman—I wanted to have a shoulder to lean on. And I found just such a man’s shoulder. In Odessa. My man is going to Moscow. And he asked the question: “Are you with me?” A month later I came to see him. Moscow seemed huge and all-consuming.

In it you need to be arrogant, purposeful and mobile. It was a shock for me. I didn't do anything for a month. I was afraid of getting lost on the subway. And then suddenly a great desire appeared - to be not a small speck among a billion people, but to be a noticeable speck among this billion. And I decided to do makeup for filming. I went to the store and bought cosmetics. I started looking for photographers and working. It soon turned out that Moscow is not so big. Many of my friends already lived there. And you could meet them right on the street.

Moscow "show off"

— Which show business stars did she make up?
— Group "Hairpins", "Yin Yang"(“Star Factory-7”), Vika Daineko(“Star Factory-5”), Helavis from "Melnitsa" group, Victoria Bonya(from “House-2”). Here, in Moscow, Bonya is a star. I get invited a lot. But I go by price, since there is a terrible custom of inviting people “for free.” I don’t agree to this. This is how they invited Tina Kandelaki, Alena Vodonaeva, and Masha Malinovskaya to paint. One day they called me to paint the participants of the band’s new video. "A-studio". For free. The video was supposed to be filmed from 8 am to 12 midnight. I laughed. The stars don't want to pay absolutely nothing. Magazines and sponsors pay. An hour of my time costs $100, but the minimum is 3 hours.

— Do stars suffer from “star sickness”?
- Most of the models - yes. They are very capricious. Artists - even more so. Half of the stars often don’t show up for filming, even though they promise to be there an hour before. Then, when they call, they answer that they are suddenly ill. (Irina Dubtsova did this). Or they don’t answer the phone for a long, long time. On the screen it seems that everyone is simple and calm. And when you calm them down for half an hour, you realize that on TV it’s all a game. I won't pat you on the head. I say directly: “Either I’m painting now, or you’re painting.” And they have nowhere to go. I communicate with the stars on a first-name basis, often asking what and how they are doing in their lives.

— What clothes do stars wear?
— They love brands and what is fashionable in the season. This is for the public. People come to me in simple jeans, blouses and UGG boots. Hair is tied into a ponytail or twisted into a bun. No one wears stilettos and luxurious furs “in real life” - it’s hard to recognize the stars.

— Who are your favorite clients?
— Some models and Vika Daineko. Vika is the sweetest and most picky: once I painted it in the car, Vika had my brushes and palettes with shadows in her hands, and she didn’t say a thing. The Yin-Yang group is also cute. But they are growing. They become more demanding. Both to yourself and to the organization of the shooting. Some guys are already starting to get rowdy. Especially Seryozha, the little black one. It was hard to work with Vika Bonya. She talked on the phone all the time, ate chocolate and gave interviews. She spoke a little condescendingly. He swears terribly. In life she is very vulgar, but when they interview her she is sweet. But the impression of working with her remained pleasant - after the shooting I was very grateful.

— What advice do you give to girls on skin care?
— Girls need to start taking care of themselves as early as possible. When you're 25, you'll understand why. You need to cleanse the skin well, tone and moisturize with cream. Or nourish if your skin is dry. Don’t act at random, consult a cosmetologist about which cream is best for you. Once a week - a mask. And don’t spare money on yourself.

Never, never, never give up and then everything will be fine

— You have two or three shoots a day. Do you have time for yourself?
- I can always find time for myself. There is always something to see in Moscow. In the near future I want to go to the Museum of the History of Chocolate and Cocoa. I look for inspiration in music - in Frank Sinatra. I love cinema. If it weren't for makeup, I would be an actress. Although I also like the profession of an architect and designer. I learned English from the age of five. I liked it. I even wanted to go to university in Nizhyn. But dad didn't let me in. As a result, a diploma from our Chechen State Pedagogical University, Faculty of History, English Language and Literature.

Now Anna Kartashova dreams of working in magazines "Vogue", "Officiel", "Calizione". The immediate goal is to open a salon. I would like to live on the seashore in Spain and have a network of salons around the world. Travel, visit Antarctica. He is already taking small steps: he is studying Spanish and is planning to study the salon business. Anna is lucky; in Moscow she lives near the zoo. He says that in the summer he wakes up to the quacking of ducks and the cry of elephants - you get the feeling that you are not in a metropolis at all. But he still misses the quiet green Chernigov with its air. Happens at home once every six months. Restores strength. So this January I arrived with a bunch of gifts for my sisters. Anna has three of them. It’s nice to watch how the sisters unwrap them and rejoice. It's nice to be a sister.

Alina Sirenko, weekly “Vest”, No. 7 (380)