Simple crocheted outfits for Barbie. How to crochet a dress for Barbie

/ 03/10/2016 at 09:54

Hello my dear!

I have a very strange question for you. How long have you been playing with dolls? It’s just that the other day, before I wrote about how to knit clothes for Barbie, I remembered a little about my childhood. Dressed up the doll in new outfits. And you know? I liked these feelings.

Associations and such warm, such reverent childhood memories poured in! And then memories of those times when I was younger, and my daughter was very little - contact with something good and bright...

Maybe for this reason, we grown-up girls should also sometimes play with dolls a little?

Well, if you leave sentiments aside, then knitting clothes for dolls is not such a frivolous activity as it might seem at first glance.

Have you ever had to deal with a little girl enthusiastically playing with dolls? Then you probably know that Barbie can never have too many outfits!

The little girl will be happy with every new doll clothes! Isn’t it worth spending a little time and effort for the sake of happy sparkles in wide-open, amazed eyes?

And then - this work is educational in nature from all sides. We can introduce the little lady to needlework (“And you can do this! Let’s learn!”).

We can develop her taste (“This skirt matches this blouse. And these colors - look how beautifully they combine!”), introduce her to order (“Let’s neatly put all HER clothes together!”). Well, those same notorious fine motor skills develop when the doll needs to be frequently changed, tied, and fastened...

And I also caught myself thinking that the same poncho could, in principle, be knitted for a girl. And such a pencil skirt would easily fit as a female model...

Like this. And it all started simply with doll outfits! That is, when modeling clothes for dolls, you can simultaneously think about how to adapt these models to a real human wardrobe.

However, I got sick. It's time to start describing the job. Let's begin.

I would like to immediately point out that since Barbie is a petite young lady, it is better to use thinner yarn and knitting needles for her outfits. I used knitting needles No. 2.5. Outfits are designed for a standard Barbie with a height of 29 cm.

Pencil skirt

We start knitting the skirt from the bottom. Cast on 36 stitches and knit 4 rows first . This is necessary so that it tightens the bottom edge a little, since the pattern with which the skirt is made also tightens the knitted fabric. In addition, the double elastic band will prevent the bottom edge from curling up and will serve as a kind of hem for the bottom.

After the double elastic band, we move on to the main pattern - small and dense.

Description of the main pattern:

Cast on an even number of loops.

1st row: 1 knit stitch, *shift 2 loops to the right: knit the second loop behind the front wall over the first loop, then knit the first loop behind the front wall*. At the end of the row there is 1 knit stitch.

2nd row: Knit all stitches purl in the “grandmother’s” way, as described in (this is necessary to make it easier to knit the next row),

3rd row:* Shift 2 loops to the left: knit the second loop behind the back wall behind the first loop, then knit the first loop behind the back wall *.

4th row: Purl all the loops in the classic way (as described in ).

Repeat the pattern from the 1st row.

We continue to knit until the length of the skirt reaches 8 cm. Then, for the bevels on the sides, we close off 1 loop on each side 3 times in 3 rows. After this, we knit a row with holes, alternating: knit 2 together, yarn over. The next row is purl loops, after which we close the loops.

This is what the skirt looks like before assembly:

The holes at the top are needed so that you can thread a cord or braid through them to tighten the skirt around Barbie's waist.

We sew the skirt. There is only one seam at the back. You can sew the edges completely, or you can not sew them a little to the bottom - you will end up with a cut.

Poncho

We knit the poncho from the top, from the neck. Cast on 36 stitches and knit 2 rows with a 1×1 rib. Then we knit a poncho, adding loops in the middle and along the edges to expand. Add loops , which are knitted with crossed loops in the purl rows.

We distribute the loops after the elastic band like this: edge loops, knit 2, yarn over, 14 loops in the Knot pattern, yarn over, knit 2, yarn over, 14 loops in the Knot pattern, yarn over, knit 2, edge stitches. The loops are highlighted in red, on the sides of which in each front row you need to make additions with yarn overs. In the purl rows we knit these loops with purl loops, and the yarn overs, as I already said, are knitted with crossed loops. We knit the main pattern as required by its description.

We knit 6 repeats in height using the “Knots” pattern. Then we do it on the front surface (see diagram). There is no need to add loops.

When we have finished knitting the jacquard pattern, we knit a row, alternating: yarn over, 2 stitches together - this is necessary to form a jagged edge along the bottom of the poncho. Then we knit 5 more rows of stockinette stitch and bind off the loops. This is what the poncho looks like at the end of knitting before assembly.

Assembly. Sew the side edges of the poncho. Along the row with the holes, make a fold and carefully hem the hem from the wrong side. Poncho is ready:

Now you can safely dress up our model in new outfits, and - at least on the catwalk! And if you are seriously interested in knitted clothes for Barbie, then look at , and to this -

An article about how to knit beautiful things for Barbie and Monster High dolls with your own hands using knitting needles and crochet.

A beautifully sewn or knitted dress for a doll with your own hands is a real art. This work requires care, accuracy and patience due to the large number of small parts. Dresses for handmade dolls have lace, embroidery, and decorations made of beads, sequins, and rhinestones.

If you want to learn how to make such products yourself, prepare a large supply of materials, time and nerves.

We invite you to the world of dolls!

How to crochet a simple dress for a Barbie and Monster High doll for beginners?

Barbie and Monster High dolls do not differ in figures, but they are very different in appearance. If Barbie is a sophisticated beauties, then Monster High dolls are bright representatives of informal culture. In particular, Monster High is usually dressed in costumes of zombies, vampires, mermaids, aliens and other personalities. However, this does not prevent you from dressing the Monster High doll the way you want.

Advice! If you are a complete beginner, you may not get the perfect product the first time. This is not a reason to give up, but a reason to try again.

Real Monster High dolls

For a beginner, you can try crocheting a simple plain dress for a doll. This model will fit equally well on both Barbie and Monster High.

First, look at the knitting pattern for the dress.

Let’s not forget about the symbols. They are the same in all crochet patterns.

Description of work:

For the back and front: use blue yarn to cast on a chain consisting of 30 chain stitches.
Close the chain into a circle using a connecting post.
First row: cast on one chain stitch, then pull 5 double crochets into the third chain chain base from the hook.
Second row: cast on one single crochet in the third chain loop of the base of the chain from the hook.
Repeat steps 4 and 5, you should have 5 rapports in total.
Finish the row using a connecting post.
Knit in the round as indicated in the pattern above. You need to knit 23 rows. Do not forget that each row must end with a connecting post.
Cut the thread and fold the product in half.
Make a seam in the middle of the back.
To knit a strap: attach the thread and knit according to the pattern for the strap from rows 1 to 7.
If the length of the strap is not enough, make the required number of air loops.
Sew the strap to the back.
For the other strap the scheme is exactly the same.

The work is ready! You can try it on a doll. If necessary, adjust the dimensions to fit your doll. You can also add decorative elements - embroidery, lace, beads.

How to crochet a ball gown for a Barbie and Monster High doll: diagrams with descriptions, photos

A ball gown can be short. If you would like to knit a ball gown for a doll, we recommend watching the video below. It presents a master class on crocheting a short ball gown with long fringe at the hem.

Video: HOW TO KNIT A DRESS FOR A MONSTER HIGH DOLL?

How to crochet a wedding dress for a Barbie and Monster High doll: diagram

A wedding dress requires you to use not only all your skills, but also a serious work of imagination. To make a truly luxurious wedding dress, you need to put in a lot of effort, spend time, and then the finished work will delight you.

So, to knit a chic wedding dress for a Barbie or Monster High doll, you need to follow the following instructions.

Advice! First make a frame for the dress so it doesn't look wrinkled. Sew the frame, put it on the doll and try on the dress while sewing.

the dress should look like this

To decorate such a chic dress, you can use white, silver and gray beads. Cut beads and glass beads will also look very good. Rhinestones may be unnecessary, but lace and sparkles are just right.

Use your imagination to make something truly worthwhile.

We have specially selected for you several interesting options for wedding dresses for crocheted dolls so that you can draw ideas and inspiration from them.

Blue lace wedding dress with roses is a great solution

an example of a very beautiful dress decoration - beads and flowers are used directly on the lace

How to crochet a top for a Barbie and Monster High doll?

A top is a universal wardrobe item that can be combined with almost anything: skirts, trousers, and shorts. You can wear a jacket or cardigan on top. As you can see, a top is simply necessary for a person or a doll.

By the way, of all the things whose knitting patterns are in this article, the top is perhaps the simplest. The technique of crocheting a doll top will be clear even to beginners.

Below there is a video with which you can figure out how to knit a doll top. In the meantime, here are a few ideas for you to add to your collection.

Video: Crochet clothes for dolls. Top with flower

How to knit a sweater for a Barbie and Monster High doll with knitting and crochet: diagrams with descriptions

To knit a beautiful bright pullover sweater for Barbie or Monster High you will need:

100% cotton yarn
colored yarn
knitting needles No. 3.5 in the amount of five pieces
hooks No. 2 and No. 2.5

The sweater on the Barbie doll looks stylish

To complete this work you will need the following diagram:

Advice! The work is knitted in one piece!

Cast on 16 stitches of green yarn. At the same time, distribute all the loops across four knitting needles. you should have 4 loops on your knitting needle.
Purl 4 rows. You need to change the colors of the yarn in the following order:
1. The first and third row are green thread.
2. the second and fourth rows are yellow thread.
For the fifth row, knit with a jacquard pattern.
1. For the sleeve, cast on one knit stitch, then make 1 yarn over, 3 knit stitches.
2. For the back: 1 double crochet, 3 knit stitches
3. Sleeve 1 yarn over, then 3 knit stitches
4. Front part: yarn over, 1 knit stitch, 1 yarn over, 3 knit stitches and 1 yarn over.
Sixth row: knit according to the pattern.
Seventh row:
1. Knit the sleeve like this: first one knit stitch, 1 double crochet, then 5 knit stitches.
2. Next, back - 1 double crochet, then 5 knit stitches.
3. Sleeve - 1 double crochet, 1 knit stitch, 1 double crochet and 5 knit stitches.
4. front part - 1 double crochet, 3 knit stitches, 1 double crochet.
Eighth row: knit according to the pattern.
Knit 14 rows this way.
For the right sleeve:
1. Transfer 15 stitches to additional knitting needles and knit twenty rows according to the jacquard pattern.
2. After this, knit 4 rows in garter stitch.
3. Cast off all stitches in one row.
The left sleeve is made according to the same pattern.
For the front and back, knit a jacquard on 4 knitting needles according to the pattern.
After this, you need to make 4 rows of garter stitch.
Close all the loops in one row.
Sew the sleeves.

This blouse involves the use of both knitting needles and a crochet hook.

A sweater for a Barbie or Monster High doll could look like this.

version of a pink bright warm sweater for a doll

And if you lengthen the sweater a little, you get a real warm tunic.

How to knit pants, knitted and crocheted trousers for a Barbie and Monster High doll: diagrams with descriptions, photos

Pants for a Barbie or Monster High doll can be crocheted in completely different ways. In this part of the article we will give you two ways to crochet doll trousers. Choose the one that seems more interesting to you.

The first way is straight trousers!

The second way is pants with arrows.

Video: Pants with arrows for Barbie

How to knit a swimsuit for a Barbie and Monster High doll with knitting and crochet: diagrams with descriptions

Knitted swimsuits are now very relevant not only in the world of people, but also in the world of dolls. With the help of this article, you can independently crochet a beautiful two-piece swimsuit for your doll.

And here are some more options for crocheted doll swimsuits. Find inspiration in these beautiful works!

Bright crimson one-piece swimsuit is a good solution for blondes

Stylish blue swimsuit will suit both Barbie and Monster High doll

Bright orange swimsuit with Monster High style!

Video: Swimsuit for Monster High. How to knit a swimsuit for a doll. Knitting the bottom of a swimsuit. Part 1

Video: Knitted swimsuit for a doll. How to make a swimsuit for a Monster High doll. Part 2

Knit a striped sweater for a Barbie and Monster High doll using knitting needles and crochet: diagrams with descriptions

A striped sweater is very convenient to knit. The following pattern is quite simple and similar to knitting socks.

Now, guided by the description below, we knit a beautiful sweater for our doll.

For the Monster High doll, you can knit the same sweater or crochet tunic using the video instructions below.

Video: Knitting a sweater-tunic for Monster High or EAN dolls

Crochet a vest for a Barbie and Monster High doll?

Video: How to knit a fashionable vest for a Monster High doll. Blouse for a doll. Monster High

Using this video, you can easily crochet a skirt for a Monster High doll, which is also suitable for Barbie.

Video: Skirt for Monster High. How to knit a skirt for a doll. monster high dolls

How to crochet a Snow Maiden costume for a Barbie and Monster High doll?

A real Snow Maiden costume consists of many parts, which you will need to spend a lot of time knitting together.

What is included in the Snow Maiden costume:

hat with open and closed top
boots
mittens

Following the description below, you will crochet a real Snow Maiden costume for Barbie!

You can knit this suit both for a doll (reducing the size on the pattern below) and for a 3-year-old child.

This is all you need to know to knit a beautiful Snow Maiden costume for a doll yourself.

How to crochet shoes for Barbie and Monster High dolls?

Beautiful shoes for Barbie are another reason to pick up yarn and a crochet hook. If your doll already has a whole closet of beautiful knitted things, it's time to try making doll shoes.

And here is the description:

How to crochet a hat for a Barbie and Monster High doll?

It is most convenient to knit a hat with crochet rather than knitting. Using a hook to add a round shape is much easier, instead of trying to do the same with knitting needles. If you want to learn how to crochet doll hats, watch the video below.

Video: Crochet hat for a doll

How to knit a hat for a Barbie and Monster High doll with crochet and knitting needles?

In this article you can find a description of knitting a hat for a doll in the section that describes the technology for making the Snow Maiden costume for a doll. By the way, you might like another option for crocheting hats for Barbie and Monster High dolls.

A fur coat, like a hat, is easier to crochet than knitting. Grab a few small hooks, the fluffiest yarn you can find, and get to work. Instructions in the video.

Video: Fur coat. How to knit a fur coat for a Monster High doll. How to tie a hat doll Monster High

/ 08/07/2016 at 18:01

Greetings, my dears!

Again I decided to make a new thing for the doll. Only now it will no longer be, but a casual knitted dress for Barbie - fitted, with a fashionable pleated skirt and three-quarter sleeves.

The main difficulty of knitting for Barbie, in my opinion, is that you need to knit with thin threads and on thin knitting needles, and yet for a “girl” like her, it turns out big... I’ll try to provide a master class on the process.

To knit this dress, I took Turkish ANGORA sectional dyed yarn and knitting needles No. 2. Knitting density: 3 loops x 6 rows = 1 x 1 cm on the stockinette stitch.

Skirt

We start knitting a dress with a skirt, which we will knit from top to bottom - from the waist.

Cast on 27 loops. In the first row we immediately add stitches in this way: edge, *yo, knit* - repeat until the end of the row. At the end of the row, the last loop is the edge loop. Thus, there were 52 loops in the row. In the next row we knit all the loops and yarn overs with purl loops.

For the skirt, knit as usual to get a chain-like edge (purl the last one, remove the first one undone). Thus, at the beginning of knitting, we added loops and got holes that will be useful to us later.

1st row(front side of the work): * 1 purl, 1 knit, remove 1 loop unknitted (thread behind the work), 1 knit, 1 purl * - repeat the combination until the end of the row (it will turn out 10 times);

2nd row and all even rows (wrong side of the work): purl the loops removed in the previous row, knit all other loops.
Next, odd rows from 3rd to 11th: knit as the first row; and all even rows from the 2nd to the 12th - knit as the second row.

13th row:*P1, yarn over, knit 1, slip 1 loop (thread at work), knit 1, yarn over, purl 1* - repeat from * to *.

14th row: knit like all even rows, knit yarn overs with crossed knit stitches so that no holes are formed (they serve to expand the pleated wedges).

15th row and all odd rows up to the 23rd row inclusive: *P1, k2, remove 1 loop unknitted (thread at work), k2, p1* - repeat from * to *.

even rows: we knit as before - purl the loops removed in the previous row, knit all the remaining loops

What did we get? As you may have guessed, the removed loop serves to form a bend on the outer, protruding edge of the pleated, and a strip of 2 purl loops forms its internal bend.

Thus, with the help of yarn overs, we will expand the pleating wedges every 12 rows (on the face on the outer bend it looks like a chain of 6 loops, which are removed in the front rows. That is, we knitted chains of removed loops to the height of 6 loops - and We make increases with yarn overs, it’s just easier to count the rows). We add loops with yarn overs after and before the purl loops until we get 5 loops on each side of the removed loop.

That is, we make the next addition with yarn overs in the 25th row (we get 3 loops on each side of the removed loops), in the 37th row (we get 4 loops each), in the 49th row (already 5 loops each). In the even rows that follow the rows with yarn overs, we knit the yarn overs with crossed loops.

If you want a shorter skirt, you can add up to 4 loops; if you want a longer one, add at the same intervals to the desired length. After the last increase, we knit another 11 rows and in the purl row we loosely close all the loops in the rhythm of the pattern.

Now the skirt is ready, or rather its spread:

Note: Actually, this kind of skirt is more comfortable. But I decided that I would need to leave a slit along the top for easy putting on of the dress, and I didn’t know in advance how long it would be needed. Therefore, I decided to sew the skirt at the back to the distance I needed.

Bodice

Cast on 26 stitches along the top edge of the skirt. To do this, we pull out the loops by inserting the knitting needle into the holes formed from the yarn overs in the very first row, and we pick up the last loop from the edge loop.

Selecting loops from the top edge of the skirt.

2nd row and all even rows (wrong side of the work): we knit with purl loops, with the exception of the edge loops, which, as you remember, we knit with knit stitches.

Attention! For the bodice, so that the edges are tighter and do not curl, we will knit the edges so that we get a knot-shaped edge. To do this, we knit both the first and last loops of the row each time only with facial loops.

We knit the 3rd (front) row as follows: edge (front) loop, 1 knit, yarn over, 2 knit loops together with a slant to the left, 4 knit stitches, 2 knit loops together with a slant to the right, 6 knit stitches, 2 knit loops together with a left slant , 4 knit, 2 knit stitches together with a slant to the right, yarn over, 1 knit, edge (knit).

In this row, we started making holes along the edges for a lacing fastener and reduced 2 loops in the center for a more fitted dress.

5th row: All stitches are knit stitches.
7th row: edge stitch, 1 knit stitch, yarn over, 2 knit stitches together with a slant to the left, 16 knit stitches, 2 knit stitches together with a slant to the right, yarn over, knit stitch, edge stitch.

9th row: all loops are front;

11th row: knit like 7th row;

13th row: 8 knit (including selvedge), knit, knit, yo, knit, yo, knit, yo, 2 knit, yo, knit, yo, knit, yo, knit, yo, 8 knit (including selvedge). In this row we added stitches for the bust.

14th row: Purl all the loops, knit yarn overs with crossed purl loops.

15th row: All loops are knit, make holes at the edges for fastening, as described in the 7th row.

17th row: 5 knit stitches (including the edge stitch), 4 knit stitches, 13 knit stitches, 4 knit stitches, 5 knit stitches at the end of the row, including the edge stitch.

Closed loops are designed for sleeve armholes. After knitting the 17th row, the work looks like this:

Now our knitting is divided into 3 parts: on the sides of the back half, and in the middle - in the front of the bodice of the dress. The working thread is located at the left edge of the work. First, we tie half of the back with it, continuing to make holes along the edge, as before.

After knitting the sixth hole, we knit another row of purl loops, one row of facial loops, and in the next purl row we close the first 4 loops for cutting the neckline, and knit 2 more rows on the two remaining loops for the shoulder, after which we remove these loops with a safety pin , we break the thread.

Turn the knitting to the wrong side, attach the thread to the right side of the central part and knit the front (14 loops). In this case, I left the loops of the right side of the back on the working knitting needle, but you can also transfer them to a pin so that they slide off the knitting needle while working.

We knit up 6 rows. In the seventh row we knit 2 loops (they will then need to be re-cast onto a safety pin), then we close the loops for the neckline and at the end of the row we also leave 2 loops for knitting. We knit 2 more rows of these loops.

Finished part of the back and front.

Then we do this: we place the knitted half of the back face to face on the front, we slip the back loops from the pin onto the knitting needle to the two front loops remaining on the knitting needle (we alternate them - front loop, back loop, front, back), and close the loops, simultaneously knitting Purl 2 stitches together. The shoulder seam made in this way is almost invisible.

We turn the knitting to the wrong side again, attach the thread and knit the second half of the back symmetrically to the first. We remove the two front shoulder loops from the pin, knit 2 rows, put them on a knitting needle with the back loops and close as described above to simultaneously sew on the shoulder.

Basically, the sleeveless dress is almost ready. You can carefully tuck in the threads and leave it sleeveless if you like this model.

Sleeves

And to knit more sleeves, you need to pick up loops in a circle along the armhole on thin stocking needles No. 2 and knit the sleeves in the round. I picked up 18 stitches and distributed them across 3 needles so that the seam between the bottom two needles was where the sleeve seam would be, and the shoulder seam would be in the middle of the third needle.

Before you begin the main knitting, you need to knit the frame of the dress. Place the doll in the frame and try on the Barbie dress while knitting.

You will need:

cotton yarn No. 10: 550 m aqua and 550 m white;
4 small buttons;
sea green bobbin thread, sewing and embroidery needles;
umbrella rod - 9 cm;
white ribbon;
foam ball - 6 cm in diameter;
metal hook No. 7 (1.65 mm).

Knitting density:
8 tbsp. without nac. = 2.5 cm;
10 rows st. without nac. = 2.5 cm;
1 tbsp. with nak. = 1 cm in height.

Dress.

Using a sea green thread, cast on 27 vp.

1st row: st. without nac. in the second loop from the hook and in each ch. to end; 1 ch; turn (26)
The resulting length must clearly correspond to the length of the doll’s waist + space for the button.

Rows 2-4: 26 st. without nak., 1 v.p., turn.

Row 5: 25 st. without nak., then 2 tbsp. without nac. in the last st. previous row, 1 ch, turn (27)

Row 6: 7 tbsp. without nak., (2 tbsp. without nak. in the next loop, then 3 tbsp. without nak.) - 3 times, 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 7 tbsp. without nak., 1 v.p., turn (31)

Row 7: 8 st. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 13 tbsp. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 8 tbsp. without nak., 1 v.p., turn (33)

Row 8: 33 st. without nak., 1 v.p., turn.

9 row: 8 tbsp. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 15 tbsp. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 8 tbsp. without nak., 1 v.p., turn (35)

Row 10: 35 st. without nak., 1 v.p., turn.

11th row: 8 tbsp. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 17 tbsp. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next loop, then 8 tbsp. without nak., 1 v.p., turn (37)

Row 12: 37 st. without nak., 1 v.p., turn.

Row 13: st. without nac. in the first column, 2 tbsp. without nac. in the next, then 13 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 10 tbsp. with nak. next loop, skip 1 loop, art. without nac. in the next, skip 1 loop, 10 tbsp. with nak. next loop, skip 1 loop, then 13 st. without nac., 2 tbsp. without nac. next, art. without nac. in the last st., ch 1, turn. (53)

Row 14: 15 st. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. with nac., skip 1 loop, st. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. with nac., skip 1 loop, 15 tbsp. without nak., 1 v.p.. turn (49)

Row 15: 14 st. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 9 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, 14 tbsp. without nak., 1 v.p., turn.

Sew 3 buttons at the top back.

Sleeve(2 pcs) - consists of two parts. Bottom part. Knitted in the round.

Using a sea green thread, cast on 17 chain stitches, connect using a half stitch. without nac. in the first loop to make a ring.

Row 1: ch 1, st. without nac. in the same loop, 3 tbsp. without nak., semi-st. with nak. next vp, 2 tbsp. with nak. in each of the tracks. 3 loops, then 2 tbsp. with nak., again 2 tbsp. with nak. next 3 loops, half st. with nak. next loop, 3 tbsp. without nak., connect half-st. without nac. in the first st. without nac. (23)

Row 2: ch 1, st. without nac. from the same loop, 6 tbsp. without nak., skip 1 loop, then 2 tbsp. with nak. in each of the tracks. 8 loops, skip 1 loop, 6 tbsp. without nak., connect half-st. without nac. in the first st. without nac. (29)

Row 3: ch 1, st. without nac. from the same loop, 6 tbsp. without nak., semi-st. with nak., 14 tbsp. with nak., half-st. with nak., 6 tbsp. without nak., connect half-st. without nac. in the first st. without nac.

Row 4: ch 1, st. without nac. with the same loop, (knit 2 loops together with a single stitch) - 2 times, skip 1 loop, st. with nak. next loop, (knit 2 loops together with a double stitch) - 8 times, art. with nak. next loop, skip 1 loop, (knit 2 loops together with a single stitch) - 2 times, connect half stitch. without nac. in the first st. without nac.

Row 5: 15 st. without nak., semi-st. without nac. next loop. Fasten the thread.

Upper part (shoulder).

Place the last row of the bottom of the sleeve with the right side facing you, attach the aqua thread using a half-stitch. without nac. into the connecting loop of the initial ring from the vp, cast on 3 vp, then st. with nak. in the same loop, then 2 tbsp. with nak. in the loop - 4 times, then 2 tbsp. with 2 nak. in the loop - 8 times, again 2 tbsp. with nak. in a loop - 4 times, connect half st. without nac. in the top loop from the first 3 ch.

Fasten the thread, leaving a long enough end for stitching.

Sew the sleeves to the bodice (armpits) with a few stitches.
Repeat the same for the second sleeve.

Skirt.

Place the bodice with the front part facing you, attach the sea green thread using a st. without nac. in the first loop from the initial ch. bodice.

1st row: st. without nac. next loop, 3 ch, (st. with nak., then 1 ch above the next loop) - 23 times, st. with nak. into the last loop, turn.

2nd row: 5 vp, (st. with nak., then 2 vp. above st. with nak. previous row) - 23 times, skip one of the three vp., st. with nak. next v.p., turn.

3rd row: 5 ch, * V-shaped stitch = (dc, 1 ch, dc) - next. st., 2 v.p.; repeat from * 22 more times, skip 2 vp, st. with nak. in the third vp; turn.

4th row: 6 ch, * (dc, 1 ch, dc) - in the middle of the same V-shaped column of the previous row, 3 ch; repeat from * 22 more times, skip 2 vp, st. with nak. in the third vp; turn.

5th row: 6 ch, * (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) - in the middle of the V-shaped column of the previous row (should make a shell), 3 ch .; repeat from * 22 more times, skip 2 vp, st. with nak. in the third vp, 3 vp, connect half st. without nac. in the third loop of the 6 initial chs. this row. (23 shells) Thus, we further knit in the round.

6th row: 3 vp, (2 chain stitches, 2 chain stitches) in the loop connecting the previous row, * 3 vp, (2 chain stitches). , 2 ch, 2 dc) in the middle of the shell; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, join half st. without nac. into the top loop of the 3 initial chs. (24 shells)

Row 7: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 ch, (dc, 2 ch, 2 dc) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 ch, (2 dc ., 3 ch, 2 stitches with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 8: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 ch, (dc, 3 ch, 2 dc) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 ch, (2 dc ., 3 ch, 2 stitches with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

9th row: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (2 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 chain stitches, (3 chain stitches nak., 3 ch, 3 tbsp. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 10: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (2 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 3 chain stitches, (3 chain stitches nak., 4 vp, 3 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 3, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

11th row: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (2 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 4 chain stitches, (3 chain stitches nak., 4 vp, 3 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 4, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 12: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (3 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 4 chain stitches, (4 chain stitches nak., 4 vp., 4 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 4, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 13: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (3 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 5 chain stitches, (4 chain stitches nak., 4 vp., 4 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 5, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 14: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (4 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 5 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 5 chain stitches, (5 chain stitches nak., 4 vp, 5 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 5, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 15: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (5 chain stitches, 4 chain stitches, 6 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 5 chain stitches, (6 chain stitches nak., 4 vp, 6 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 5, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 16: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (5 chain stitches, 5 chain stitches, 6 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 6 chain stitches, (6 chain stitches nak., 5 vp, 6 st. with nak.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 6, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 17: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, 3 chain stitches, (6 chain stitches, 3 chain stitches, 7 chain stitches) in the middle of the same shell, * 6 chain stitches, (7 chain stitches nac., 3 vp, 7 st. with nac.) in the middle of the next. shells; repeat from * 22 more times, ch 6, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 initial chs.

Row 18: half st. without nac. in the middle of the first shell, st. without nac. in the same shell, * 5 ch, (dc, 5 ch, dc) next. a gap of 6 v.p., (5 v.p., treble without chain) - in the next. a gap of 3 vp; repeat from * in a circle, at the end of 5 ch, half st. without nac. in the first st. without nac. (70 spaces from 5 vp. (translator’s note: or 72 - illegible in the original)) Fasten the thread.

Row 19: consists of 2 parts, i.e. Knit the first part, turn and add a frill.

1. 19 A: attach the white thread with a single stitch. in any interval of 5 v.p. last row, (7 vp, single stitch in the next gap of 5 vp) - in a circle, at the end 7 vp, half st. without nac. in the first st. without nac.; to turn.

2. 19 B: (7 vp, single stitch in the next column of row 19A) - in a circle, at the end 4 vp, st. with nak. in the first st. without nac. row 19A, turn.

Row 20 (we knit only in the loops of row 19B, the loops of row 19A will be in front of them): (7 ch, sc. in the next arc) - in a circle, at the end 4 ch, st. with nak. at the base of the first 7 vp. DO NOT turn.

21-23 rows: (7 vp, st. without chain in the next arc) - in a circle, at the end 4 vp, st. with nak. at the base of the first 7 vp.

Rows 24A and 24B: Repeat rows 19A and 19B.

Rows 25-28: Repeat row 21. At the end of the last row, fasten the thread.

Bottom frill

1st row: attach the white thread with a single stitch. in any interval from 7 v.p. the last row of the skirt, (9 stitches with a chain in the next gap of 7-ch, chain stitches in the next gap) in a circle, at the end of the half stitch. without nac. in the first st. without nac.

2nd row: 4 ch, * (dc, 1 ch, dc) in the next row. column of the previous row, (1 ch, dc in the next st.) - 2 times, 1 ch, (dc, 1 ch, dc in the next st.) ) next st., (1 ch, dc in next st.) - 2 times, 1 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) next st., 1 v.p., st. with nak. next st., ch 1, skip next. With. without nac. previous row, art. with nak. in Art. with nak. previous row; repeat from * in a circle, at the end of half st. without nac. in the 3rd loop from the initial 4 ch.

3rd row: half stitch. without nac. in the first gap of 1 vp, 4 vp, (st. with nak., 1 vp) - in the next two. gap of 1 v.p., * (st. with nak., 1 v.p., st. with nak.) - in the next. gap, (1 vp, st. with nak.) - in three next. gap, 1 vp; repeat in a circle, at the end of half a century. without nac. in the 3rd loop from the initial ch.

4th row: half st. without nac. in the first gap of 1 vp, (3 vp, single stitch in the next gap of 1 vp) - in a circle, at the end of the semi-st. without nac. at the base of the first 3 vp. Fasten the thread.

5th row: attach a sea green thread with a single stitch. in any of the arcs (of 3 loops), (3 vp, single stitch in the next arc) - in a circle, at the end of the half st. without nac. in the first st. without nac.
Fasten the thread.

Ruffles for rows 19A and 24A: repeat similar to the bottom frill. Starch the frills.

Hood.

Using a sea green thread, cast on 28 vp.

1st row: st. without nac. in the second loop from the hook and in each loop to the end; turn. (27)

2nd row: 3 vp, 8 st. with nak., 2 tbsp. with nak. in one loop - 3 times, 4 tbsp. with nak., 2 tbsp. with nak. in one loop - 3 times, 8 tbsp. with nak., turn. (32)

3rd row: 3 vp, 31 st. with nak., turn.

4th row (we knit only in the back half loops): half st. without nac. in the first loop, then 3 tbsp. without nak., semi-st. with nak., art. with nak., (st. with nak.; 2 tbsp. with nak. in the next loop) - 5 times; (2 dc in the next loop; dc) - 5 times; Art. with nak., half-st. with nak., 3 tbsp. without nak., semi-st. without nak., then half-st. without nac. down to the first rows and connect the first and last loops of the 1st row using a half stitch. without nac. Fasten the thread.

Hood edge. Attach the white thread using a half stitch. without nac. in the first half without nac. 4th row, skip next. loop, 5 tbsp. without nac., (3 vp, treble without nac. in the next loop) - 28 times, 4 tbsp. without ac., skip trace. loop, half-stitch without nac. next loop. Fasten the thread.

Umbrella.

Knitted in the round with white thread.

Cast on 4 vp, close into a ring using a half stitch. without nac. in the first v.p.

1st row: 3 vp, 13 st. with nak. into a ring, connect half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 chs. (14 tbsp. with nak.)

2nd row: 5 ch, st. with nak. next column of the previous row, (2 ch, dc in the next column of the previous row) - 12 times, 2 ch, connect half stitch. without nac. in the 3rd loop from the first 5 ch. (14 spaces from v.p.)

3rd row: half stitch. without nac. next gap, 3 vp, art. with nak. in the same interval, 2 vp, 2 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * ch 1, skip a trace. gap, (2 tbsp. with nak., 2 vp., 2 tbsp. with nak.) in the next. interval; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 1, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 chs.

4th row: half st. without nac. next gap, 3 vp, 2 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, 3 vp, 3 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * ch 1, skip a trace. gap, (3 tbsp., 3 ch., 3 tbsp. dc.) in the next. a gap of 2 vp; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 1, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 chs.

5th row: half st. without nac. next gap, 3 vp, 3 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, 4 vp, 4 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * ch 2, skip the next line. gap, (4 st. with nak., 4 vp., 4 st. with nak.) in the next. a gap of 3 vp; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 2, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 chs.

Row 6: half st. without nac. next gap, 3 vp, 4 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, 3 vp, 5 tbsp. with nak. in the same interval, * 3 ch, skip the next line. gap, (5 st. with nac., 3 vp., 5 st. with nac.) in the next. a gap of 4 vp; repeat from * 5 more times, ch 2, join half st. without nac. in the top of the 3 chs.

7th row: 10 vp, (s.c. in the next gap of 3 vp, 7 vp, dc in the next gap of 3 vp ., 7 ch) - in a circle, ending with a half st. without nac. in the 3rd loop from the first 10 ch.

8 row: 7 tbsp. without nac. in each interval in a circle. Connect half st. without nac. in the first st. without nac.

Row 9: ch 5, * skip next. loop, (st. with 3 chains, 1 v.p.) - 3 times in the next. loop, skip trace. loop, st. with 3 ac. next loop, ch 1; repeat from * in a circle, at the very end skip the last loop, then half stitch. without nac. in the 4th loop from the first 5 ch. Fasten the thread.

Umbrella border.

Attach the blue thread with a single stitch. in any interval from 1 v.p. the last row of the umbrella, (3 ch, without chain stitch in the next gap) - in a circle, 3 ch, connect half stitch. without nac. in the first st. without nac. Fasten the thread.

Starch the umbrella and shape it into the desired shape by stretching it onto a foam ball (or other rounded surface).

Wrap the rod with white ribbon and make an umbrella handle: pierce the middle of the umbrella with one end and bend the other end to make a curved handle.