Diamond options. The main qualitative characteristics of diamonds. Peer Review Systems

Source: VIBIRAEM.COM How to choose a diamond. Carat, color, clarity, diamond cut

When choosing a diamond, jewelers recommend the rule of four "C", from the English carat (carat, i.e. weight), color (color), clarity (clarity) and cut (cut).
The main indicator, of course, is weight. The more, the more expensive.
A good diamond should be colorless. If a perfectly colored stone is placed in water, it becomes invisible. This is where the concept of “pure water” diamond came from.
The highest class in color is the first. Russian diamonds of medium size usually reach the first or second class.
The purity of the stone is determined by the absence of internal defects - cracks, inclusions. According to the accepted classification, the first class is also the most expensive. In stones with low clarity, defects can be seen through an ordinary magnifying glass. And according to this indicator, average diamonds correspond to grades 3-4.
Cut is a decorative element, but often the buyer's choice. Here, beyond competition - the classic "round" shape. The number of edges must be specified. It is an impossible task for the buyer to independently distinguish a fake diamond from a real one. If the stone is of normal size, the reputation of the store serves as a guarantee of its authenticity. You can order an independent gemological examination.
Question price. If the price tag indicates - 1Kr57-0.24 1/5A - this means: one round stone, 57 facets, weighing 0.24 carats. Its color corresponds to the 1st class, and its purity - to the 5A class. Such a ring costs about 20 thousand rubles.

The leader in Russian sales is a national diamond of 0.1 carats, its price, with average quality characteristics, is around 7 thousand rubles. A diamond of 0.5 carats will pull 140 thousand, and for 1 carat you will have to fork out 500-600 thousand rubles
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Russian diamond grading system.

The Russian system for grading diamonds is based on technical specifications (TU 117-4.2099-2002) that have been in force since April 2002.

Cut evaluation. The round cut with 57 facets (Kr-57) is accepted as the standard, there is also a round 17-sided cut (Kr-17), which is used for small stones. TU establishes the ranges of geometric parameters of the cut, according to which round diamonds Kr-57 can be divided into groups (in descending order of geometric parameters, symmetry, polishing quality) "A", "B", "C", "G", and Kr- 17 - into two groups - "A" and "B". Diamonds of famous fancy cuts are divided into two groups - "A" and "B". Fancy-cut diamonds with an unconventional number and arrangement of facets belong to the B-cut group.

The weight of a diamond is measured in carats to the second decimal place. To calculate the mass of a stone fixed in a piece of jewelry, special calculation formulas are used.

There are three weight groups of diamonds: small (weighing up to 0.29 carats), medium (from 0.30 to 0.99 carats) and large - 1 carat and above.

Color rating. Diamonds are classified into color groups from colorless with a gradual increase in saturation of yellow, brown, gray shades. The number of color groups depends on the weight. Small diamonds Kr-17 are classified into 4 color groups (1 - colorless stones). Small diamonds Kr-57 are classified into 7 color groups (1 - colorless stones). Medium and large diamonds are classified into 9 main color groups (1 - colorless stones) (see table), while several subgroups are distinguished in 6, 8 and 9: 6 and 6-1, from 8-1 to 8-5, from 9-1 to 9-4 (for example, 8-2 is a faintly colored yellow, or 8-5 is a yellow). Fancy colored diamonds belong to the first color group. I would like to note that diamonds weighing 1 carat and above with the characteristics of 1/1 are practically not available for sale. Stones with such characteristics are several times more expensive than diamonds with 4/4 characteristics and may not be affordable even for very wealthy people. At the same time, outwardly, 1/1 and 4/4 diamonds do not differ at all from each other.

Cleanliness rating. Diamonds are classified into clarity groups depending on the presence of internal characteristics (inclusions, cracks, surface defects, the elimination of which will lead to significant weight loss), their quantity, location and color (characteristics visible in a 10x magnifying glass are taken into account). The number of purity groups depends on the weight. So, small diamonds Kr-17 are classified into 6 clarity groups, and small diamonds Kr-57 - into 9 groups. For medium and large stones, there are 12 clarity groups (see table). It follows from the table that a diamond with a clarity of 5 on diamonds weighing up to 0.29 carats corresponds to a clarity of 7 for medium and large stones. Those. defects and coloring that are hardly visible to the naked eye are detected only with characteristics of 7/7 (for medium and large stones). A trained eye, without the help of devices, notices defects and chromaticity with characteristics of 6/6. Therefore, when buying large stones, it would be more correct to pay attention to the color and size that catch your eye.

The final grade of a diamond is recorded as follows: for example, Kr-57 0.35 3/4A. This means: a round cut diamond with 57 facets, weighing 0.35 carats, has a 3rd color group, 4th clarity group, cut group - A.

GIA system for grading diamonds.

Cut - the cut of the stone.

The quality of the cut of a diamond is perhaps the most important component of the four influencing the value of a diamond, as a properly cut stone looks very beautiful, it has a bright brilliance and "play". When the diamond is cut correctly, light passes through the crown platform, plays between the pavilion facets, and returns back through the platform, being completely or almost completely reflected from the inner facets. If the cut is unsuccessful, then the light passing through the platform reaches the pavilion facets faster and “leaks” through one of them, or leaves through the opposite lower facet of the diamond without having time to be reflected. The less light that is refracted inside the stone and comes back out, the less sparkle your diamond will have.

Most gemstone experts agree that the best cut diamonds are based on a formula that gives the stone maximum brilliance. These formulas can be understood by examining the proportions of diamonds, but what is more important is how the depth relates to the diameter of the diamond and how the diameter of the platform relates to the diameter of the diamond.

Experts in the field of diamond cut grading have developed a table to help jewelers with which they can give the ideal proportions to a diamond. According to this table, the cut of diamonds (according to GIA) can be divided into the following categories: Ideal (Ideal), Excellent (Premium), Very Good (Very Good), Good (Good) and Benign (Poor).

The ideal cut aims to give the diamond maximum brilliance, and these diamonds usually have a smaller area, which has the added benefit of being able to scatter light more. This cut category only applies to round diamonds. Premium cut round diamonds are equivalent to the Perfect cut with a wider table and slightly modified crown and pavilion angles. Very Fine cut diamonds reflect most of the light that passes through them, creating a reasonable level of brilliance. Diamonds with this cut are obtained as a result of the fact that the cutters deviate slightly from the prescribed proportions of the diamond in order to obtain a diamond that is large enough in weight. As a result, such diamonds have deviations in the size of the platform or the width of the girdle, although in other respects they coincide with the parameters of diamonds of the “Ideal” or “Premium” category. A cut in the “Good” category means that the stone reflects a lot of the light that passes through it. The proportions are less than ideal, as the choice is made in favor of a larger diamond when cutting, rather than cutting off everything superfluous to get a small stone of the “Premium” category.

Clarity - the purity of the stone.

When it comes to the clarity of a diamond, we are referring to the presence of distinctive characteristics on the outside and inside of the stone. While most of these characteristics are inherent in a rough diamond from the earliest stages of crystal formation underground, some of them are the result of the intense pressure that the diamond is subjected to during the cutting process. If you imagine the incredible pressure with which a diamond is born, it is not at all surprising that many diamonds have inclusion cracks, defects, air bubbles and particles of alien mineral rocks, both on the surface and inside the stone. Clarity is assessed at 10x magnification, taking into account the size, number, location and color of internal characteristics, as well as in some cases surface defects that cannot be removed by repolishing without significant weight loss of the stone. Other things being equal, diamonds without intrinsic characteristics are considered more valuable. The GIA grading system distinguishes 11 clarity groups: from “Internally Flawless” - a diamond that has absolutely no defects and inclusions even at 10x magnification, and ending with “Imperfect” - a diamond that has serious defects and inclusions that are visible even to the naked eye. with a look.

F and IF (Flawless and Internally Flawless) - Clean and Internally Clean. These diamonds have no internal inclusions or cannot be detected at 10x magnification. Very rare.

VVS1 and VVS2 (Very Very Small Inclusions) - Barely noticeable inclusions. Very difficult to detect at 10x magnification.

VS1 and VS2 (Very Small Inclusions) - Barely noticeable inclusions. The smallest inclusions are invisible to the naked eye and are difficult to detect at 10x magnification.

SI1 and SI2 (Small Inclusions) - Small inclusions. The smallest inclusions that can be detected at 10x magnification and in some cases (SI2) inclusions are visible to the naked eye.

I1 and I2 and I3 (Imperfect) - Noticeable Inclusions. Inclusions are visible both at 10x magnification and with the naked eye.

Color - the color of the stone.

When talking about the color of a diamond, jewelers usually mean the presence or absence of color in a “white” diamond. The color directly depends on the chemical composition of the diamond and does not change over time.

Due to the fact that a diamond is devoid of color, like transparent glass, it transmits more light through itself than a colored stone, colorless diamonds sparkle more and play with light reflections. Due to the peculiarities of the process of diamond formation, only a few specimens are truly colorless stones. The more colorless the "white" diamond, the higher its value. These rules do not apply to fancy color colored diamonds. Such diamonds have a bright fantasy color - blue, pink, red, yellow, green. They are very rare and their value is several times or even orders of magnitude higher than the cost of "white" diamonds.

When evaluating the colorlessness of diamonds, many jewelers use the GIA Professional Color Chart, which is divided into groups starting with completely colorless diamonds and progressing as the saturation of the yellow hue increases to the last group for yellow colored diamonds. Each group is designated by a letter of the Latin alphabet from D - colorless diamonds to Z - yellow diamonds. The same scale evaluates the color of stones with a brown tint, while taking into account the saturation of the brown color. Assessing the color of a diamond comes down to determining the color group. The color of yellow and brown stones with a color characteristic below Z is considered fantasy. Fancy-colored diamonds have their own color groups; when describing such stones, they use the word fancy (fancy), then describe the color and its intensity. A set of standards is used to evaluate the color of diamonds.

Carat weight - weight of the stone in carats.

Carat is a unit of measure used to determine the weight of diamonds. One carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams (200 milligrams). The word "carat" comes from the name of the seed of ceratonia, with which people in ancient times checked the scales. Carob seeds are so small and indistinguishable from each other that even the most modern technology is not able to measure the difference in weight of two seeds in excess of 0.003.

The process of diamond formation takes place only under special conditions, and usually the natural components necessary for the formation of a crystal can only be found in the mountains. Which means that large diamonds are found much less frequently than small ones. For this reason, the price of a diamond rises in direct proportion to its size.


Today, there are several systems for grading diamonds in the world. At the same time, the most stringent of them are the Russian TU (the so-called “Specifications”) and the GIA (the grading system of the Gemological Institute of America). Each of them has its own advantages (in Russia there is only one - a more strict color assessment), but the GIA system is more perfect, as it reflects such important characteristics of the cut as the quality of polishing, symmetry and the presence or absence of fluorescence, which is in Russian certificates never reflected. Moreover, for export diamonds are sold only with GIA grades, while they enter the Russian market with TU characteristics, since the Russian consumer is not so sophisticated.

Color.

Diamonds are distinguished by color shades - from colorless to yellow-brown. To determine the color of a diamond, a stone is compared to a color standard of the same size, after which it is assigned the appropriate color group. In accordance with the international GIA system, color shades are characterized by letter designations from D - colorless to Z - rich yellow or brown. The domestic scale of specifications provides for designation by numbers from 1 (colorless) to 9 (brown). The color scale is divided into groups, it starts with colorless diamonds, then there are smooth transitions with increasing yellow saturation, and ends with the last group, which has a clear yellow or yellow-brown color. The so-called commercial stones have a color of at least 7.


< или = 0,29 ct > or = 0.30ct GIA Description
1 1
2
D
E
bluish white
2 3 FWith a subtle hint
3 4
5
G
H
Grayish white, yellowish white
With a slight tint of yellow
4 6
7
I
J
White with a subtle color tint
5 8 (1-5) K-Lpale yellowish
6 6 (1) M-Nyellowish tint
7 9 (1-4) O-R
S-Z
yellowish tint
yellow
Table data - Joint Stock Company ALROSA.

Diamonds, like most other stones of mineral origin, have natural inclusions and defects in their structure. The fewer of them, the more valuable the diamond. There are practically no absolutely transparent diamonds in nature, one can only talk about the purity of a diamond at a tenfold magnification. If no defects are found at the same time, the stone is recognized as a pure diamond. When determining the clarity of a diamond, the number and nature of defects are determined, as well as their size and location in the diamond. The clarity of diamonds is assessed at 10x magnification using a magnifying glass or a special microscope.


Picture< или = 0,29ct > or = 0.30ctGIADescription
1 1 IFClean under a magnifying glass
2 2 VVS1Very, very small inclusions
3 3
4 VVS2
4 5 VS1Very small inclusions
5 6 VS2
7 SI1Small noticeable inclusions
7aSI2
6 8 SI3
9 I1Inclusions visible to the naked eye
7 10 I2
8 11 I3
9 12
Table data -

Delightful beauty, incredible play of light and bewitching brilliance of diamonds leave no one indifferent. They are made into exquisite jewelry, used to inlay rare designer creations, purchased for investment purposes, and even used for industrial purposes. Today, like many years ago, they are beautiful, unique and in great demand.

Diamond Appraisal Options

The assessment of cut diamonds in world practice is carried out according to the 4C system proposed by the GIA. This name is not accidental, and was formed from the capital letters of such English words as clarity, color, cut, carat. It symbolizes the "rule of four Cs" that must be followed when purchasing diamonds.

Pricing is influenced by four main characteristics of diamonds: color, clarity, weight, cut. Their weight is indicated by carats. The equivalent of 1 carat is 200 milligrams.

The color of diamonds ranges from completely colorless to a definite yellow. The shade of color and its intensity are the basis for the classification of stones and their assignment to different groups.

White diamonds are the most popular. The more transparent they are according to the generally accepted classification, the higher their cost. With an ideal color tone, a diamond stone immersed in water becomes completely invisible.

In addition to white, there are diamonds with a pronounced fantasy color - pink, red, yellow, green, blue. Such diamonds come across rather infrequently, and their price is much higher. Over time, the color of a diamond remains unchanged.

The clarity of a diamond is a characteristic that shows how easily and freely light can penetrate into it and, reflected from its faces, shimmer with iridescent colors. It implies the absence or presence, as well as the degree of internal or external defects, which cannot be eliminated without significant loss of its weight or size.

The cut is used to emphasize the brilliance and brilliance of the gemstone. The level of quality characteristics of a cut is determined based on its proportionality, symmetry and smoothness of polishing. There are a great many forms of cutting: circle, oval, heart, emerald, pear, princess, radiant, marquise, usher. The most common and popular is round.

International GIA system

Gemological Institute of America - The American Gemological Institute sees its mission in ensuring public confidence in all precious stones in general, and in particular in diamonds, as well as in jewelry with them.

Thanks to the professionalism of scientists and the high standards of the laboratories, GIA has earned an international reputation in the field of evaluation, quality assurance and certification of diamonds.

The GIA system is a unique system for classifying diamonds according to four main characteristics. The weight, quality parameters of the cut are assessed - from "Ideal" to "Poor", the clarity of diamonds - on a scale from "Fl" to "I3" and color by groups - from "D" to "Z".

The characteristic of the cut made is classified into groups:

  • ideal;
  • premium;
  • very god;
  • good;
  • poor.

It is possible to qualitatively determine the purity of a diamond only by using a loupe with a 10x magnification. This is a generally accepted international standard for detecting various kinds of defects that reduce quality and purity. Diamonds ranging from "cleanest" to stones with flaws visible to the naked eye are classified in the GIA into the following clarity groups, in descending order:

Determination of color shades is carried out using a specially prepared set of diamond standards. Comparing the evaluated diamond with the standards, it is assigned to a certain color category.

Colorless diamonds are classified as group "D". Diamonds are assigned to subsequent groups as their yellowish tint increases. The “Z” group includes conditionally yellow stones. The characteristic of a special category of diamonds with a fancy bright color is carried out with the help of other color groups. To describe diamonds of this category, the English word “Fancy” is used, which means “fantastic” in translation, indicate the color and characterize its intensity.

Russian system

The Russian system of classification and evaluation of cut diamonds is considered the most complex in the world. The standard cut in Russia is considered to be round with 57 or 17 facets. The latter is used for cutting small diamonds.

Depending on the quality parameters of the cut, 57-sided diamonds belong to one of four groups A, B, C, D, systematized in descending order, and 17-sided diamonds belong to two: A, B. Diamonds with known fancy cuts are classified into two groups: A and B.

In the Russian system, depending on the weight, cut diamonds are divided into three groups: large, medium and small. Large stones are characterized by a mass of 1 carat and more, medium ones - from 0.3 to 0.99 carats, small ones - from 0 to 0.29 carats.

The dependence of the diameter of diamonds on weight

Weight, in carats Diameter, in mm
0,03 2,0
0,07 2,7
0,33 4,4
0,40 4,8
0,85 6,2
1 6,5
3 9,3
7 12,4
8 13,0

Depending on the color and clarity, diamonds are classified into groups indicated by numbers. In this case, their mass and the number of faces are taken into account. Colorless stones belong to the 1st color groups in this classification. Having 17 facets, small diamonds correspond to 4 color groups, having 57 faces, to 7. Medium and large stones - according to 9 main color groups with several subgroups.

The clarity of a diamond also has a complex classification in the Russian system. Small stones with 17 facets belong to one of the 6 purity groups, those with 57 facets - to one of the 9 groups. Medium and large - to one of the 12 groups. The 1st group in all classifications by purity includes clean stones, that is, they do not have defects.

The final characteristics of diamonds can be seen on the tag in jewelry stores. It is displayed in this way: Kr-57 1.25 4/7B.

It is deciphered as follows: the diamond has a round cut with 57 facets, its weight is 1.25 carats, it belongs to the color group 4 and the purity group 7, the cut quality is group B.

Compliance with the clarity characteristics of diamonds of the Russian system and GIA

In order to be able to profitably purchase diamonds both in the domestic and international markets, one needs to understand the current grading systems. In addition, it is necessary to develop the ability to correlate similar categories of differing classifications.

Clarity of a diamond according to the Russian system and the GIA system, correspondence table.

Russian system GIA Description
More Less Less
1 1 1 F Absence of any defects.
2 2 2 IF No more than 2 points of light shades are found in the center or on the periphery; a visible band is possible.
3 3 VVS1; VVS2 No more than 3 points of light shades are found; no more than 2 subtle dots of dark shades or stripes.
4 No more than 2 almost imperceptible dots of dark shades are found in the center; in any part no more than 4 small dots of light tones.
5 4 3 VS1 A small cloud of a light shade is found in the center; the crack is quite small, no more than 3 dark dots; no more than 6 dots or stripes of light colors.
6 5 VS2 No more than 8 small stripes, dots, cracks and bubbles of light shades are found; no more than 5 dark dots; graphite inclusions no more than 1.
7; 7a SI1; SI2 A maximum of 2 inclusions of graphite are found; no more than 8 small defects; small cloud with graphite inclusions.
8 6 4 SI3 Numerous small defects are visible, some of which may be barely visible under magnification.
9 I1 You can see a lot of cracks, or a combination of them with inclusions that can be seen without magnification.
10 7 I2 Multiple defects are visible, the transparency of 60% of the faces and more.
11 8 5 I3 Multiple defects are visible, transparency is 30% - 60% of the faces.
12 9 6 Multiple defects are visible, transparency is 30% or less.

Clarity of a diamond is an important factor in the selection and purchase of these cut diamonds and is often the determining factor.

Top Selling Diamonds

The quality of diamonds with color and clarity groups of 1 1 and 2 2, respectively, is very high, but they are very rare and cost fabulous money.

The best-selling and popular stones have such characteristics of color and clarity as 3 3, 4 4, 6 6. The clarity of a diamond from the 3rd to the 6th group makes it attractive in terms of investment. The cost of such stones from the size of 1 carat never decreases, even its stable growth occurs. Therefore, they are considered an excellent way to invest and save money.

The clarity of a diamond with color 3 and clarity 3 will satisfy and even please the most demanding customer. When magnified, only three light, inconspicuous dots can be found in them. These imperfections cannot be seen with the naked eye. The color of such a cut diamond will also please the buyer. Without being an expert in the field of gemology, it is very difficult to capture all the color nuances of diamonds. Therefore, the differences between diamonds 3 4 and 3 5 will not be obvious.

The color and clarity 4 4 diamond is practically the most popular, especially with a flawless round cut.

When magnified, two small small inclusions can be found in it right in the center, or in other zones there are 2 stripes or from 2 to 4 dots of a light shade. For stones of this category, the presence of a small crack on the side is acceptable. On the other hand, the presence of natural defects allows you to determine the origin of the diamond and establish its authenticity. Clarity group 4 stones do not have conflicting quality characteristics, which is common with clean stones.

A diamond with the characteristics of 6 6 is an excellent option for those who want to buy a large diamond of good presentation, but who have limited budget. A diamond with a clarity of 6 and a color of 6 belongs to the most common group - the average one. At the same time, it is visually identical to purer stones.

Differences are visible only when using a loupe with 10x magnification. So you can detect up to 8 small inclusions of light shades located in different zones, or about 5 dots of dark shades or a small graphite inclusion. Such diamonds are especially popular in European countries.

The clarity of diamond 7 already suggests the presence in its structure of many inclusions of natural origin. Inclusions can be of a different nature.

In stones belonging to the purity group 7, one can find a couple of graphite specks, or a couple of cracks, or a graphite island with a small feather. It can also be a combination of cracks and a graphite speck.

How to determine which diamond to choose? Depending on the purpose of the purchase, you need to decide which criterion should be decisive: weight, color, clarity, cut. Then select the desired technical characteristics according to the selected criterion. And after that, you can go directly to the search for your diamond.

"A girl's best friend is diamonds," says the famous song. And each friend needs to know what is called, to the core. Diamonds are no exception. How to understand the world of jewelry terms and choose the right stone? What to look for when making such a significant purchase? Let's try to figure it out.

Why are diamonds valued?

Everyone knows that a diamond is a cut diamond. And the fact that nature does not create so many of these stones is also a well-known fact. And even the fact that diamond is the hardest known mineral is not news either. So what is the most important characteristic of diamonds?

And what attracts jewelers in a diamond? There is only one answer - shine. The very name of the stone is translated from French as "brilliant". When light is reflected in a diamond, it shimmers with all the colors of the rainbow. Best of all, diamonds reflect. It is under the light of lamps that the brightness and playfulness of the stone appear in all its glory. By the way, this is one of the reasons why wearing diamond jewelry before 5 pm is considered not quite decent.

Profitable investment

Now the fashion for wearing diamonds “everywhere and always” has passed. The purchase of a diamond ring is seen more as an investment than as a definition of status in society. Compared to other gemstones, diamonds do not "age" over time. They are afraid of a direct blow with a hammer or stone. All other external factors are insignificant for them. And from the point of view of investment, it is necessary to study how and how diamonds differ from each other. And what characteristic of diamonds is preferable in different cases.

Assessment according to the 4C system

There are not many diamond mining countries in the world. And they are located in different parts of the world. But there are many more buyers. And everyone wants to buy, if not the most beautiful, then the most “correct” stone. The world practice of valuing diamonds has been established for a long time and is based on the fact that the characteristics of diamonds are described by four indicators: weight, color, clarity (transparency) and cut. Until a stone is cut, it is only a diamond. No play of light and jewelry significance. Only a correctly and professionally cut stone is able to refract light and sparkle. And be called a diamond. Actually, the 4C system got its name from the first letters of the English words that characterize the class of the stone: carat (mass), color (color), clarity (clarity), cut (cut).

Diamond weight

Weight, as with all gemstones, is measured in carats. 1 carat is 0.2 grams. That is how much 1 carat wood grain weighed, which has been used since ancient times as a standard measure of weight for jewelry. The modern carat is divided into 100 parts. Because the weight (and size) allows you to classify a diamond into one of the groups: small (up to 0.29 carats), medium (from 0.3 to 0.99 carats) and large, or solitaire (larger

Which exceeds 6 carats, is destined to be sold only at a closed auction. Of course, other characteristics are still important here, but the weight alone is enough to make the cost of such a giant sky-high. Therefore, those who wish to purchase prefer to do it behind the scenes.

Small stones are graded by diameter, not by weight. But for large and medium stones, it is a mistake to believe that the larger, the heavier the diamond. The characteristic of the stone sometimes allows you to make a unique cut, which, with a large diameter, will give a relatively small weight.

Defectiveness of diamonds

Of course, you always want to buy all the best. But in life we ​​are guided by the rule: to choose the optimal ratio "price-quality". And diamonds are no exception. There are very few absolutely pure stones in nature. And, accordingly, they are very expensive.

Most often in nature, diamonds are found interspersed with carbon and foreign crystals. Very rarely come across samples with internal cracks. On the one hand, it is impossible to see all this with the naked eye. But on the other hand, when you buy a diamond that does not shimmer in the light (or is very dull), and even more so when you invest in stones, you want the characteristics of diamonds to be worthy.

There are several standards by which the quality of diamonds is judged. For example, the Scale, according to which all stones are divided into categories depending on the quantity and quality of inclusions, according to the Russian standard, consists of 12 groups, where the 1st group is the cleanest diamonds, and the 12th is “dirty”. In fact, only starting from the 9th group can inclusions be examined without a microscope. And before that, at least a tenfold increase under a microscope is necessary to detect stone defects.

This is probably why the American Clarity of a diamond, which has a scale of 9 groups, does not treat the purest stones and stones with subtle inclusions differently. They belong to the same category.

Diamond color

Of course, the most popular are white diamonds. But just like absolutely pure stones, there are few of them. Most often in jewelry, we are offered yellowish diamonds. But it is impossible to determine this by eye - human vision does not perceive such a subtle difference.

In nature, there are diamonds of different colors - from white to black. Until recently, the concept was not used at all, and such stones were not used in jewelry. They were literally considered garbage. But fancy yellow and blue diamonds are a completely different matter. Being interestingly framed, they can become a real decoration of the collection.

In general, the concept of the color of a diamond is very complex. The Russian standard uses such terms as “hardly perceptible”, “nasvet”, “barely noticeable”, etc. That is, the assessment of the color of a stone can be very subjective. Nevertheless, this characteristic of diamonds (a table that will help you understand the ratio of different standards should be in every store) plays an important role in determining the price. Up to the eighth color group, diamonds are considered white with various shades. Starting from the 8th - the color is defined as yellow. But here there are 3 subgroups.

Cut

Cutting a diamond is a very difficult task. The quality of a cut can be described by three characteristics: symmetry, proportionality and polishing. It is by these parameters, according to the American standard, that any diamond can be evaluated. In the Russian system, according to the quality of cutting, a stone can be attributed to one of the groups from A to G. Diamonds, the cut of which does not fit into the parameters specified for these groups, are not subject to assessment according to specifications.

In addition to the quality of the cut, there is also a form. This is something that can be assessed according to the simplest principle: like it - don't like it. The round shape of the cut of stones is considered classic (it is sometimes called Russian). Oval, marquise, emerald, drop - all these are options for cutting diamonds.

How to choose a diamond

The price of a diamond is the sum of the ratio of all four quality indicators. Asking a store for a diamond marked 1/1 (the first group of class in color and clarity) means to prove yourself not just an ignoramus, but also a pompous snob. Even demanding that the characteristic of diamonds be 2/2 is also indecent. Most often, diamonds with color parameters of 3-5 and clarity of 3-6 go on sale.

From an investment point of view, when choosing a diamond, it is better to compromise on color than clarity. Because various inclusions change the refractive power of the stone, which means that the diamond does not play in the light. In addition, many defects can cause a diamond to break if dropped. It won't just be embarrassing.

When choosing diamonds, pay attention to how the stone is hidden in the setting. The more the setting or its elements hide the facets of a diamond, the more likely it is that a low-quality stone is used in the product.

Each diamond has a tag. All parameters are indicated on it: shape, number of faces, weight, color, clarity, cut group. It looks like this: 1 Kr57 - 0.43 - 4 / 3A. The first number indicates the number of diamonds in the item.

Diamonds of different clarity

As already noted, diamonds of different quality are on sale. The most common are 3/5, 4/5, 6/6. What are the characteristics of 3/5 diamonds, and how are they fundamentally different from 2/2, for example? About everything in order.

High grade diamonds

In nature, these stones (with a characteristic of 2/2) are as few as absolutely pure. But according to the standards in diamonds of the 2nd clarity group, several light dots are acceptable. A few is no more than two. And it is impossible to see them from the side of the site with the naked eye. If the stone is labeled 2/2 in the store, you need to check its certificate, and you need a certificate from the GIA (American Gemological Institute).

The most popular diamonds are round, with a color and clarity of 4. The gemological characteristics of 4/4 diamonds make these stones a reliable investment. The price for them never falls and gives a stable increase. In addition, it is these defectiveness and color indicators that are beyond doubt.

So what is a 4 clarity diamond? Such a diamond may have 2 minor inclusions in the central part or 2-4 small defects in other parts. Moreover, all this can be considered only with a multiple increase.

By the way, diamonds with defectiveness 5 can already be much cheaper than representatives of the 4th group. This is due to the fact that on small (up to 0.29 carats) stones, defects of the 5th category can already be seen without a microscope. But on large stones, inclusions are still not visible to the naked eye. The characteristics of 4/5 diamonds mean that there is a small “cloud”, a crack or 5-6 tiny dashes in the middle of the stone. If the inclusions are on other surfaces of the stone, then a small crack is allowed.

Medium quality large stone

If the average buyer wants the largest of the diamonds, then you need to pay attention to the 6th grade of clarity. The larger the stone, the more blotches are dispersed in it. Again, they can only be seen at multiple magnifications. But the cost of such diamonds is significantly less than their cleaner "brothers". Characteristics of diamonds 6/6: 8 light dots or a small inclusion of graphite are dispersed over the entire area; up to 5 dark dots are acceptable.

There is an opinion that the size of the stone on the bride's finger determines the degree of the groom's love for her. Since in natural light the defects of the stones of the 6th group are indistinguishable, you need to choose a ring with just such a stone - large and beautiful.

The characteristic of diamonds (the table clearly illustrates this) significantly affects their value. The table shows the price in dollars of medium and large diamonds.

Before you buy a tiny but purest diamond, think about it: maybe you should lower the quality criteria, but increase the size.

The ability to decipher the characteristics of diamonds fixed on a special tag will help you learn about the characteristics of the jewelry. They say about the weight of the diamond in carats, its color, transparency, the presence of defects and brilliance in the sun. The cost of a stone directly depends on these indicators, and the ability to navigate the numbers and letters presented will protect you from unnecessary financial expenses.

Grade according to the system 4 "C"

Diamonds formed in the natural environment are not a homogeneous crystalline mass. Before cutting, they have cracks, air bubbles or foreign inclusions that are invisible and visible to the naked eye.

This affects the color and transparency of the diamonds obtained after cutting, which are sold in jewelry stores or go under the hammer at world-famous auctions.

In Russia, as in the rest of the world, the 4 "C" rating system is used. It allows you to describe a gemstone in detail using its physical characteristics. These include:

  • cut
  • weight in carats (carat weight);
  • color (color);
  • the clarity of the diamond.

If several precious stones are used in the manufacture of jewelry, then their exact number will be indicated on a special tag.

How to read the tag

Let's imagine that you are planning to buy a piece of jewelry that has 3Br-Kr57-0.2ct-3/6A on the tag in the "Inserts" section. It looks like a complex formula, but such an entry is deciphered very easily.

The first value "3Br" indicates that 3 diamonds are inserted into the product.

"Kr57" indicates the type of cut. In our case, the cut is round, and each stone has 57 facets or facets.

Round-cut Kr diamonds are most often used to encrust items with a large number of small gemstones (up to 1 ct).

Large minerals receive a cut of other types, among which the following stand out:

  • "Marquis" with 55 facets "M55";
  • "Princess" P49, "P65", P68";
  • "Pear" - "G55 and" G56 ";
  • "Round" - "Kr57", "Kr17", "Kr33";
  • "Oval" - "O57";
  • "Emerald" - "I57" and "I65";
  • "Asher" - "A25", "A49", "A55";
  • "Radiant" - "P65", "P70";
  • "Heart" - "C57", "C58";
  • "Trilliant" or "Trillion" "T19", "T31", "T37", "T52".

"0.2ct" means that the total weight of stones of the same size and the same cut is 0.2ct. If diamonds of different sizes and qualities are inserted into the product, then there are several entries on the tag corresponding to each of them.

The weight and type of cut play a big role, but much more important is the color and clarity of the diamond, as well as the quality of the cut, which you must be able to correctly decipher.

Brilliance depends on the cut

A properly cut stone gives a piece of jewelry a unique brilliance, drawing the attention of others to it.

The perfect A cut allows the stone to reflect light off the top, giving it the most impactful play. If a surface cut is used, then the light is scattered in different directions and does not give a strong shine. For minerals with dark shades, a deep cut of types B and C is specially carried out. With it, the light literally disappears in the depths, and the diamond looks mysterious and dull.

The use of modern high-tech equipment allows cutting, polishing each facet to an almost perfect shine. The brilliance of your jewelry depends solely on the quality of the cut. Therefore, if you see the letter A on the tag, then this designation indicates a surface cut that gives the stone maximum brilliance.

Group B diamonds are more stretched in height, while Group C diamonds are more stretched in diameter. The most high-quality minerals are subjected to type A surface cutting, and stones that have disproportionate sizes and defects are subjected to type B and C cutting.

Categories of diamond color

The mark “3/6” testifies to the color and purity of the jewel. In this case, the first number characterizes the color, and the second indicates the clarity of the diamond.

The value of natural diamonds depends on color and transparency. There are no absolutely transparent diamonds in the world, so jewelers came up with a color scale that allows them to be classified into groups.

Stones with a high degree of transparency have a color category 1. They have a pale blue tint that is invisible to the naked eye. As saturation increases, the color parameters increase, reaching a value of 9 for coffee-colored diamonds.

You should know that stones with color values ​​from 1 to 4 are considered colorless, that is, their weak shades can be seen only when using magnifying glasses.

In our particular case, there is a marking with the number 3, which means the presence of diamonds of the third color class. These are worthy indicators, indicating that you have quality stones in front of you.

How to determine the purity of a stone

If the mineral is without scratches, cracks, air bubbles and inclusions of other minerals, then it is referred to the maximum first category of purity. As the number of defects increases, the purity designation on the tag grows, reaching a figure of 7 units.

Even a diamond with a clarity value of 7 can only be detected using a 10x magnifying glass.

A diamond with a clarity of 1 to 4 is considered "crystal clear", and a rate of 5-6 is acceptable in jewelry made from artificial stones.

In our case, the purity characteristic of 6 indicates not ideal, but high quality of the jewel.

It is impossible to visually determine the difference in color and clarity in diamonds, the size of which does not exceed 1 carat, so feel free to buy the jewelry you like.

Purchasing diamonds is a reliable way to invest capital. They do not have a shelf life, they do not dry out and do not crack due to storage in the sun, they are not afraid of cold and high temperatures. Stably rising in price, as well as precious metals. If necessary, they are easy to sell.

When buying large diamonds, pay attention to the clarity index. The value of the jewel and the interest in its acquisition by potential buyers depend on it.

Diamonds of the first and second categories of clarity with a weight of more than 1 carat are very expensive and are sold at auctions. We recommend purchasing diamonds with a clarity of 3 (3 3) to 6 (6 6). They are inexpensive, but constantly growing in price, keeping the investment.

Low purity black diamonds

In recent years, black diamonds have become popular, and for many years they were considered low-grade stones. Such minerals receive a purity category of 10, 11, 12 and are unlikely to be suitable for investment.

According to hematologists, black diamonds are of extraterrestrial origin and are extremely rare. The jewels inlaid with them are valued if the diamond is large and beautifully cut.

Getting acquainted with the tag of such a product, pay attention to the category of purity and uniformity of color. The diamond should not have chips, cracks and inclusions visible to the eye.

Remember that cracks and chips can cause the diamond to break and lose value.

Correctly read the characteristics of diamonds