Craft from a plastic bottle for a matinee in kindergarten. Amazing paper barrel. A simple master class How to make a barrel out of paper

Cooper is a rare profession. Products made of glass, metal, synthetics have finally ousted the tub, tub, and sourdough from our homes. But the barrel and tub are still indispensable.

What can be compared, for example, with a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub. And in a linden barrel, honey, apple juice are perfectly stored, you can cook kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree even today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. Just do not find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can do it yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur master is quite capable of coping with it.

RIVETS
First of all, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are unsuitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Here we need linden, aspen, plane tree. Poplar, willow, alder will also come down. But for salting, pickling or urinating, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will serve for more than a decade. For other needs, you can use blackberry, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

Usually, the lower part of the trunk of old trees goes to riveting, it is called “riveter”. But a lover of tinkering will choose blanks from ordinary firewood, and adapt a thin trunk to the job. It is best to make riveting from raw wood. First, the chock - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future riveting - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again pricked into two parts, and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), in order to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. just try to split it radially - this will save the riveting in the future from cracking.

The chopped blanks are dried in a room with natural ventilation for at least a month. You can use a dryer to speed up the process. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a planer. First, the outer surface of the riveting is planed. At the same time, to check the curvature of the surface, a template should be prepared in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of a thin plank according to the finished product. Next, the side surfaces are planed, also checking their curvature according to the template.

Riveting can be kadushechnaya - in which one end is wider than the other, and barrel riveting - with an extension in the middle. The size of these extensions determines the taper of the tub and the convexity of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the ratio between the widest and narrowest part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).

The processing of the side surface is completed with a jointer. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4). At the next stage, we process the inner (in relation to the finished barrel) surface of the riveting, cutting off excess wood with a planer or even an ax (Fig. 5). After that, the tubular riveting can be considered finished, and for the barrel riveting, the middle still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm (Fig. 6). Let it not bother you that rivets can have different widths - we take everything possible from each workpiece.

HOOPS
Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so strong, and a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. Hot-rolled steel tape with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm is used for hoops.

Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop was stretched, we add to this size the double width of the strip. With hammer blows, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and put rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared with blows of the pointed end of the hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).

According to the location on the product, the hoops are distinguished into farts - the central hoop on the barrel, the morning-extreme and the neck-intermediate.

ASSEMBLY
To one jack-of-all-trades, the grandmother brought a crumbling tub with a request to collect it. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. He came up with the following: he threw a rope on the floor and laid out one to the other rivets on it. Then he crushed them with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope together. Gradually removing the pillows, he brought the extreme rivets together and secured them with a hoop.

Coopers make it easier.

The product is assembled on any flat surface. First, two rivets are attached to the hoop opposite each other with special brackets bent from hooped iron (Fig. 9). Then, attaching rivets to one of them, we get to the other, which will tighten the assembled half of the barrel. Continue assembly until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.

Lightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we upset it and check whether the edges of the riveting are tightly aligned. To achieve contact of the rivets over the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out an extra one and after that put a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of staves does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the staves or replace the narrow one with a wider one.

Having trimmed the ends of the skeleton with light blows of the hammer, we put on the middle hoop and push it all the way with the help of a hammer (Fig. 10).

Having exposed the skeleton on a flat surface, we describe with a pencil using a bar (Fig. 11) the cut line. Having planted the morning hoop, we cut the skeleton 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a planer. We do the same with the other end of the skeleton.

In the manufacture of a barrel, after fitting an onion, neck and morning hoop on one side, the other side must first be pulled off. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. A home master can use a cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purpose. You can tie a loop and twist it with a gag or pull the ends of the cable with a lever (Fig. 12).

There is no need to do any steaming or boiling of the skeleton, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting does not bend along the entire length, but in one place and therefore gives a crack. However, in such cases, the cooper will prefer to simply make a new riveting.

DONYA
The assembled skeleton is cleaned from the inside with a plow or sherhebel, and the ends of the skeleton with a planer - a humpback (Fig. 13).
Now in the skeleton you need (Fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hoop iron, and even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove must be 3 mm (Fig. 15).

First, a bottom shield is assembled from a sweet clover with a planed outer side and jointed side surfaces (Fig. 16). The sweet clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests are pre-drilled 15-20 mm deep. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of a regular hexagon inscribed in the circle of the morning groove on the skeleton of the barrel. However, you need to cut the bottom with a margin, deviating from the intended circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After cleaning with a sherhebel, chamfers are cut from the edge of the bottom (Fig. 17) so that the thickness of the wood is 3 mm three millimeters from the edge - this is necessary for the tight connection of the bottom with the frame in the morning groove (Fig. 18).

We make the first fitting - loosening the hoop, insert the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then with light blows of the hammer and the rest. If the bottom is tight, you still need to loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.

After stuffing the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. The perfect result the first time is rarely achieved. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, they can be found by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, then the bottom is too big and you need to trim it slightly. Worse, if water flows through the bottom or through the morning groove. Then you have to disassemble the skeleton and narrow one of the rivets.

Before installing the second. From the bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The cork is made as shown in Fig. 19, its height must not be less than the thickness of the bottom, however, the cork must not protrude beyond the cutting plane of the core.

HOW LONG DOES A BARREL SERVE
First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that you should not paint jellied containers with oil paint: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the decay of wood. It is desirable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel, a flower tub can be treated with mordants.

The brown color of the oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. A black solution of iron sulphate or an infusion for 5-6 days of iron filings in vinegar.

A decoction of the rhizomes of the fragrant woodruff (Asperula odo-rata) turns linden and aspen red. Red-brown color gives a decoction of onion peel, brown - a decoction of walnut nibs. These dyes are brighter than chemical ones and more stable.

It must be remembered that wood is better preserved with a constant humidity regime. Therefore, dry products must always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to substitute a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of the rot by cutting the chimes.

But no matter how long a barrel made by one's own hands serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of the difficulties overcome in comprehending the secrets of the ancient cooper's craft.

Amazing paper barrel. A simple master class

We will need:

1. beer cardboard (white, not the most dense)

2. glue "Moment Crystal"

3. watercolor paints

5. scrap paper

6. flowers and decorations of your choice

From the beer cardboard we cut out a round bottom (I have a diameter of 13.5 cm) and cut into strips. For a diameter like mine, I cut it 1.5 cm wide and 10 cm high.

Further, from paper (I took it for graphic work, it is possible for drawing, the main thing is not very thin) we cut out a strip 42 cm long - this is just the width of the A3 sheet, it was just enough for me. The height can be calculated as follows: 10 cm - bottom height + 2-3 cm. At a distance of these 2-3 cm, we crease and cut into triangles, as in the photo.

I sealed the joint with a piece of ordinary tape.

We glue our stripes around the perimeter.

We cut out two strips from beer cardboard (these will be our rims on the barrel) 1.5 cm wide and about 44.5 cm long (it is better to take with a margin and cut off the excess later).

There is such a nuance here: my beer cardboard is quite thin and bends very well. If you have it thick, then you need to moisten it a little and wrap it around the box, and hold it until it dries so that it takes shape.

To give an aged look, paint over the distance between the stripes with black. I used regular watercolors.

Then cover with white primer or acrylic paint.

We tint with blue paint, well, or whichever one you like best)))) I tried to do the opposite on one part - first paint with blue paint, and then with primer. I liked both options.

We also color the stripes.

We leave to dry.

When everything is dry, glue the stripes in a circle.

From paper we cut out a circle with a diameter of 1 mm less than our bottom and two strips 21 cm long and 10 cm wide (barrel height), glue everything inside.

You can leave it as it is, or you can decorate to your liking. I decorated with flowers

MK Imitation of wood, glazing. "Gift barrel for honey"

1. We will need two plates of different sizes (the difference should not be very large, one and a half to two centimeters) and a container that will then be inside the gift keg;

2. We need corrugated cardboard. We cut out circles from corrugated cardboard: 1 circle - large (inside which we cut a circle for further gift packaging) Circle the gift along the most protruding part and then be sure to try it on and if our gift hardly fits into the hole - increase it a little. 2 circles of a smaller diameter with holes inside and 1 circle of a smaller diameter without an internal hole. We will also need 1 circle of thin cardboard (you can use whatman paper), but its inner hole should be 1-2 mm narrower than the rest of the inner holes;

3. In order not to suffer with the calculations, I took a flexible centimeter and measured the circumference of our circles. The larger one turned out to be 52 cm and the smaller one 46.

4. We need to determine how many centimeters we will have a barrel in height (the height of the gift + the bottom and top of the barrel), I added 2 cm from above and below (total 4 cm.)

We also need to determine how many cm in length we need to make a pattern of barrels. Our barrel will consist of two canvases. Since our largest circle is 52 cm in circumference, we boldly add 3 cm, and maybe even 4 cm. (Depends on the thickness of the cardboard - the thicker it is, the more centimeters it will eat). The first half of the barrel is larger than the second, look at your box (how long it is). Our first ring will be located in the middle of the barrel and on the canvas we are looking for the middle, draw a straight line and from it another 2.5 - 3 cm up and down we draw lines (it turns out a strip of 5-6 cm. In the middle of this strip we will glue a larger circle)! !! There are corrugated grooves in the cardboard; they should go vertically. Next, we need to crease 5 strips along these grooves with a thickness of 5 centimeters (hereinafter, the boards of our barrel) and since the circles of smaller diameters will be on top and bottom, we make tucks like on a skirt (we cut along the fold line of each plank of the future and cut it to the mark that we did by measuring the middle) We cut to the mark closest to the edge and cut out the tuck (a triangle should turn out);

5. On the smaller half of the barrel, we do the same.

6. This way the larger circle will be located in the middle;

7. Cut out strips 1 cm * 2-2.5 cm.

8. Glue with glue;

9. Those places where we made tucks on the sides of the barrel (on two halves) - we crush with our fingers and round off from the mark where the tucks end (we don’t take the area where the large circle will be located, we round only the tops and bottom), stick the strips on the circles corrugated cardboard with holes. Remain without stripes: a circle without a hole made of HA and a circle with a hole made of thin cardboard.

We glue our circles with holes: two smaller circles down and up (departing from the edges about 1 cm.) The glue is not super fast and you have to squeeze hard to grab it. You can tie elastic bands or some kind of ropes in order to, let's say, wrap our circles to the maximum.

While the glue dries, let's take care of the lid:

The smaller circle, which is intended for the lid, is cut off a little along the edge so that the lid is flush with the top of the barrel.

We cut out strips of 6 pieces: 4 pieces are smaller and 2 are larger, try on the lid;

glue two strips together;

Glue two more smaller circles to the upper circle;

The two bottom circles should be less than the top maximum 1 cm. Try on the bottom circles to the barrel so that they completely fit and lie on the top circle of the barrel, on the circle that we have with the hole.

We cover the finished lid and the element for which we will open later with yacht varnish.

We process all holes and irregularities with papier mache, skin, putty, skin again, cover with yacht varnish, glaze ... see below.

We choose where our barrel will have the top and pour glue into the corrugated grooves and begin to crumple the cardboard, gluing the upper and lower parts between which the grooves are located (there should be the effect of thin cardboard.) If the three parts that make up the HA are stratified, then we glue them very well to avoid further air bubbles. If we have air bubbles, then our putty will fly around. To the bottom of the barrel, to the bottom circle with a hole, glue a circle without a hole.

While the first strip is glued, you can apply glue to the second. While it dries up on the last board - glue the previous one.

You can help yourself and clamp the tops with something while they are glued (either with clamps or clothespins, just be careful so that the clamps do not stick to the barrel),

After we have everything glued, we paint our entire barrel from the outside with a good yacht varnish.

Preparing the papier mache mixture. We cut the napkins into small pieces and pour PVA, it is better to take a larger container;

We cover all the holes with a papier-mâché solution, remove the excess with a cloth. When the mortar dries, it will be difficult to sand it. The rest of the solution will go to the bottom of the barrel;

This is how the barrel and the lid with the holder look, processed with papier mache.

After drying, we skin the entire product and apply putty, leveling all the irregularities. Do not forget to put putty on the bottom and level with a spatula.

We also apply putty on the lid and holder;

We take a spatula and at an angle of 45 degrees we begin to draw our tree, all the knots and grooves;

After the putty has dried, we take sandpaper and clean everything. We align everything. We coat with yacht varnish all places with putty. The putty will yellow a little from the varnish.

Next, we need to think about the internal state of our barrel. We take whatman paper and twist it into a tube, glue our holes in the circles with glue, insert whatman paper and glue it to the sides of the holes in the circles;

On top of the paper we make notches with scissors, unbend and cut off the excess. We glue the bent parts to the upper circle from the Civil Code;

On top we glue a circle of thin cardboard with an inner hole slightly smaller than that of circles made of HA. , We coat the top and whatman-tube with yacht varnish;

After the varnish has dried, we cover all the cracks with putty, then again with yacht varnish, we wait for drying;

We prepare brushes, a cloth and paints for glazing. Paints "Tair" brown, white and gray, ocher; Plaid 915;

We mix paints gray "Tair" and brown "Plaid" 915 and apply the first layer, wait for drying;

Do not forget to paint the lid along with the barrel to avoid color discrepancies;

We added inclusions of Tahir ocher, bleach the dark brown a little to light brown and intersperse further, then apply dark inclusions - take gray paint and apply it with some water on top, giving the effect of dusty antiquity, Then we play with color;

Do not forget to apply all layers on the lid of the barrel. After we achieve the desired result and are satisfied with it, we put brown dots on the lid, near the holder, imitating carnations;

After all the layers of paint have dried, we can cover the barrel with a finishing varnish in one layer, I have the “Technologist” varnish. Then, after the varnish has dried, we begin to draw the boards. To make our barrel look more like a real one, we will draw small triangles on the edges of the lines, imitating cracks;

On the lid we also draw boards;

We draw our knots with brown paint, select all the grooves or those that we want to highlight;

Since our barrel tapers to the bottom and to the top, we will need to make a pattern of our hoops first from paper, cut into thin strips and equip with double-sided tape.

We remember where we will begin our pattern and begin to measure in small pieces. For convenience, the beginning of the pattern can be glued to the barrel on a small piece of adhesive tape. We follow the top so that the strip goes smoothly, as soon as it starts to go down - we cut it off and glue the next strip onto the double-sided tape so that it goes smoothly. We leave an overlap.

Here we have such a curved pattern. We put notches where the beginning and designate the top. We turn the barrel over and make a pattern in the same way;

We cut off the top of the tin and cut the bottom along to make a rectangle, cut off unevenness for safety !!! For convenience, we will stick a few small strips of double-sided tape on a paper pattern and put it on a tin can. We also glue a piece of adhesive tape on the edge of the tin pattern and glue the tin piece to it, continuing the pattern ...

We clean the resulting pattern from tin from the paint layer, do not remove the paper pattern yet.

Those places where we were fastened with adhesive tape (tin to gesture) we will need to connect them;

To do this, we take either an awl or a tailor's needle (thick needle) and make two holes at the joints, helping either with a hammer or with heavy pliers. Place an unnecessary magazine so as not to spoil the table. We try on the rings to the barrel and close them with pieces of wire. We bend the wire in the shape of the letter P and from the inside we clamp it like a bracket with pliers;

We take a sponge and apply brown paint on the tin with a smacking motion. If you decide to make a pattern (squeeze out) on tin, then use bituminous varnish instead of paint (it will show all the patterns, but there is a drawback - it smells terrible)

We process both rings and wait for drying;

We remove the paper pattern, clean it from the adhesive tape with a napkin or a cloth, go through the rings with coarse sandpaper for better adhesion to the glue, glue the hoops and pull them onto the barrel, press them to stick. If the glue does not take a moment, then you need to take a hot gun. Next, we cover with a finishing varnish and apply decoupage.

If you are interested, then I have a video of MK.

We will need two plates of different sizes (the difference should not be very large, one and a half to two centimeters) and a container that will then be inside the gift keg;

We need corrugated cardboard. We cut out circles from corrugated cardboard: 1 circle - large (inside which we cut a circle for further gift packaging) Circle the gift along the most protruding part and then be sure to try it on and if our gift hardly fits into the hole, increase it a little. 2 circles of a smaller diameter with holes inside and 1 circle of a smaller diameter without an internal hole. We will also need 1 circle of thin cardboard (you can use whatman paper), but its inner hole should be 1-2 mm narrower than the rest of the inner holes;

In order not to suffer with the calculations, I took a flexible centimeter and measured the circumference of our circles. The larger one turned out to be 52 cm and the smaller one 46.

We need to determine how many centimeters we will have a barrel in height (the height of the gift + the bottom and top of the barrel), I added 2 cm from above and below (total 4 cm.)

We also need to determine how many cm in length we need to make a pattern of barrels. Our barrel will consist of two canvases. Since our largest circle is 52 cm in circumference, we boldly add 3 cm, and maybe even 4 cm. (Depends on the thickness of the cardboard - the thicker it is, the more centimeters it will eat). The first half of the barrel is larger than the second, look at your box (how long it is). Our first ring will be located in the middle of the barrel and on the canvas we are looking for the middle, draw a straight line and from it another 2.5 - 3 cm up and down we draw lines (it turns out a strip of 5-6 cm. In the middle of this strip we will glue a larger circle)! !! There are corrugated grooves in the cardboard; they should go vertically. Next, we need to crease 5 strips along these grooves with a thickness of 5 centimeters (hereinafter, the boards of our barrel) and since the circles of smaller diameters will be on top and bottom, we make grooves like on a skirt (we cut along the fold line of each plank of the future and cut it to the mark that we did by measuring the middle) We cut to the mark closest to the edge and cut out the undercut (the triangle should turn out);

On the smaller half of the barrel, we do the same.

This is how the larger circle will be located in the middle;

Cut out strips 1 cm. * 2-2.5 cm.

Glue with glue;

Those places where we made undercuts on the sides of the barrel (on two halves) - we crush with our fingers and round off from the mark where the undercuts end (we don’t take the area where the large circle will be located, we only round the tops and bottom), stick the strips on circles of corrugated cardboard with holes. Remain without stripes: a circle without a hole made of HA and a circle with a hole made of thin cardboard.

While the glue dries, let's take care of the lid:

The smaller circle, which is intended for the lid, is cut off a little along the edge so that the lid is flush with the top of the barrel.

We cut out strips of 6 pieces: 4 pieces are smaller and 2 are larger, try on the lid;

glue two strips together;

Glue two more smaller circles to the upper circle;

We cover the finished lid and the element for which we will open later with yacht varnish.

We process all holes and irregularities with papier mache, skin, putty, skin again, cover with yacht varnish, glaze ... see below.

While the first strip is glued, you can apply glue to the second. While it dries on the last board - glue the previous one.

You can help yourself and clamp the tops with something while they are glued (either with clamps or clothespins, just be careful so that the clamps do not stick to the barrel),

After we have everything glued, we paint our entire barrel from the outside with a good yacht varnish.

Preparing the papier mache mixture. We cut the napkins into small pieces and pour PVA, it is better to take a larger container;

This is how the barrel and the lid with the holder look, processed with papier mache.

After drying, we skin the entire product and apply putty, leveling all the irregularities. Do not forget to put putty on the bottom and level with a spatula.

We also apply putty on the lid and holder;

We take a spatula and at an angle of 45 degrees we begin to draw our tree, all the knots and grooves;

After the putty has dried, we take sandpaper and clean everything. We align everything. We coat with yacht varnish all places with putty. The putty will yellow a little from the varnish.

On top of the paper we make notches with scissors, unbend and cut off the excess. We glue the bent parts to the upper circle from the Civil Code;

On top we glue a circle of thin cardboard with an inner hole slightly smaller than that of circles made of HA. , We coat the top and whatman-tube with yacht varnish;

After the varnish has dried, we cover all the cracks with putty, then again with yacht varnish, we wait for drying;

We prepare brushes, a cloth and paints for glazing. Paints "Tair" brown, white and gray, ocher; Plaid 915;

We mix paints gray "Tair" and brown "Plaid" 915 and apply the first layer, wait for drying;

Do not forget to paint the lid along with the barrel to avoid color discrepancies;

We added blotches of Tahir ocher, bleach the dark brown a little to light brown and blot it further, then apply dark blotches - take gray paint and apply it with water on top, giving the effect of dusty antiquity, Then we play with color;

Do not forget to apply all layers on the lid of the barrel. After we achieve the desired result and are satisfied with it, we put brown dots on the lid, near the holder, imitating carnations;

On the lid we also draw boards;

We draw our knots with brown paint, select all the grooves or those that we want to highlight;

Since our barrel tapers to the bottom and to the top, we will need to make a pattern of our hoops first from paper, cut into thin strips and equip with double-sided tape.

We remember where we will begin our pattern and begin to measure in small pieces. For convenience, the beginning of the pattern can be glued to the barrel on a small piece of adhesive tape. We follow the top so that the strip runs smoothly, as soon as it starts to go down - we cut it off and glue the next strip on the double-sided tape so that it goes smoothly. We leave an overlap.

Here we have such a curved pattern. We put notches where the beginning and designate the top. We turn the barrel over and make a pattern in the same way;

We clean the resulting pattern from tin from the paint layer, do not remove the paper pattern yet.

Those places where we were fastened with adhesive tape (tin to gesture) we will need to connect them;

We process both rings and wait for drying;

If you are interested, then I have a video of MK.

Comments

	Elena Milovanova (March 21, 2014 at 8:31 am):
	Olga, it feels like a very interesting and useful MK, thanks for posting! I write "feels", because it is quite difficult to consider everything in detail, the photos are too small, unfortunately. The end result pleased as far as I can tell - it turned out very realistic! And yes, I would like to see the video

Olga Myagkova (March 21, 2014 at 11:33 pm):
Irina, thank you very much!