Construction of a men's jacket with a liner. Pattern of a men's jacket. The procedure for removing patterns from the finished product

Construction of a men's jacket according to the system of M. Muller and son

Let's designate the dimensional signs necessary for the construction of the back and shelves:

Merck	Designation	Measurement
Bust	Og	-
Height	R	-
Length of the product	Di	-
Back armhole height	Vpr.z	(measured or calculated Vpr.z \u003d 1/8Og + 12cm) + 2.5cm (increase on the drawing)
Armhole front height	Vpr.p	Vpr.z + 2.5cm
Back length to waist	dts	(measured or calculated 1/4R) + 1cm (increase on the drawing)
hip height	wb	measured or calculated Wb. = 1/8R
Back neck width	Shsh.z	measured or calculated Shsh.z \u003d 1/10 of 1/2Og + 3cm + 0.5cm (increase on the drawing)
Back Width	Shs	(measured or calculated Ws = 2/10 * Og + 2.5-4cm - with Og up to 100cm, Ws = 1/10 * Og + 12.5-14.5cm - with Og over 100cm)
Armhole Width	Shpr	(1/8*Og + 2.5-4.5cm)
Back neck width	Shsh.z	(1/4*From + 0-0.5cm). Doesn't count if Shpzh< Шг, в этом случае считается Шпж=Шг
Chest Width	Shg	Chest width (2/10 Og + 2-4cm)

(1). Let's start building from the back. We draw a vertical AE = Di. On this vertical, we set aside the segments AB = Vpr.z, AC = Dts, CD = Wb. We draw horizontal lines through all points on the vertical (Fig. 1)

(2). Divide the segment AB in half - we get the point A '. On the line of the hips, set aside the segment DD '= 2.5cm, draw the segment D'A' and extend it to the bottom line, we get point E'. From the point of intersection of the segment D’A’ with the waistline from point C, set aside 0.5 cm to the left - we get point C’. Let's draw a line in the middle of the back E'C'A'. Let's designate the places of intersection with horizontals as B', D' (Fig. 2).
(3). From point A to the left horizontally, we set aside the value of Shsh.z, we get point A1. From point A1 upwards, we set aside the segment A1F = 2.5 cm. Let's draw the neck of the back (Fig. 2).

(4). From the point B' to the left, we set aside the segment B'B1 = Шс. Let's draw a vertical B1A2 (Fig. 3).
(5). From point A2 down, lay down the segment A2G \u003d 3 cm. Draw a straight line FG and continue it beyond the segment B1A2. On the continuation of this line from the point G, set aside 1 cm - we get the point F1. We get the shoulder line of the back (Fig. 3).

(6). On the segment B1A2 up from the point B1, set aside the segment B1G1 = 1/4Vpr.z. From point G1 to the left, draw a segment G1G2 = 1 cm (Fig. 4)

(7). On the line of the chest from point B1 to the left, set aside a segment B1B2 \u003d 1/2 * Shpr + 1.5 cm. Let's draw a vertical line from point B2. Points of intersection with contour lines will be denoted by points С1, D1, E1.

(8). Draw an armhole line through points B2, G2, F1 (Fig. 6).

(9). Set aside approximately 5 cm from point B2 to the left, as the gap between the drawing of the back and front. We get point B3. From point B3, set aside the segment B3B4 = 1/2 * Shpr - 1.5 cm. Draw a vertical through point B4 to the line of the hips (Fig. 7).

(10). From point B4 upwards, set aside the segments B4H = 1/4Shpr, V4H1 = 1/4Vpr.z. Point H is a control sign for sewing in a sleeve (Fig. 8).

(11). From point B4 draw a segment vertically upwards B4H2 = Vpr.p. Draw a horizontal through H2. From point B4 to the left, set aside the segment B4B5 \u003d Shg. From point C2 to the left, set aside the value of Shpzh (if Shpzh< Шг, то от точки С2 откладываем величину Шг). Ставим точку С3. Чертим линию середины полочки через крайнюю левую точку на линии груди - A3-B5-C3-D3-E3, где Н2А3 - перпендикуляр к линии середины полочки (рис. 9).

(12). From point B5 to the right, set aside the segment B5B6 \u003d Shsh.z + 1cm. From point A3 to the right, set aside the segment A3A’3 = 1cm. Connect points A'3 and B5. Draw a segment B6A4 through point B6, parallel to segment B5A'3 (Fig. 10).

(13). From point A4 down along the segment A4B6 set aside the segment A4I \u003d Shsh.z + 2cm. from point I draw a perpendicular II1 to segment A4B6. Draw a neck line (Fig. 11).

(14). From the point H2 down, we set aside the segment H2H3 \u003d 4.5 cm. Let's draw a straight line A4H3 (auxiliary line for constructing the shoulder cut). From point A4 along the straight line A4H3 set aside the segment A4J = FF1 (from the drawing of the back) - 0.5-1 cm. Draw an armhole line through points J, H1, B3 (Fig. 12).

(15). Let's move the line of the shoulder towards the shelf by 1 cm: on the shelf, in parallel, move the shoulder 1 cm down, on the back, raise the shoulder by 1 cm. At the armhole, lower the end of the shoulder cut by 0.5 cm and draw the end section of the shoulder cut with a smooth line (Fig. 13).

(16). Set aside 1.5 cm along the waist line inward from points C1 and C2. We get points C'1 and C'2. Connect points B2, C'1, D1. Continue straight line C'1D1 until it intersects with the bottom line at point E'1. Similarly, we obtain a side cut of the shelf B3, C'2, D2, E'2. Perpendicular to E'D' from point E' draw a segment E'K (Fig. 14).

(17). From the middle of segment E'K draw a perpendicular to E'1D1. On the segment E'1D1 we get the point K1. From C'2 down we put the segment C'2K2 = C'1K1. Draw a perpendicular to C'2E'2 from point K2 to the left. On the line of the middle of the shelf from the waist line down, set aside the value C’1K1 + 1cm. Let's draw the lines of the bottom (Fig. 15).

Once again, we will check the increase in the chest, waist and hips, check the pairing of parts.

To build a sleeve, we need the following dimensional features:

Merck	Designation	Measurement
armhole height	VPR	from the drawing of the back and shelves
Armhole length	DPR	from the drawing of the back and shelves
Sleeve width at the bottom	shrn	by model
The length of the sleeve	dr	-
Eye height	wok	Wok = 1/2*Vpr - 6.5-7.5cm
Slanted sleeve width	Shr	1/2*Dpr - 2.5-3.5cm

(18). Let's start building the sleeve. We measure the length of the armhole in the drawing on the back and shelf and add both results (Dpr). Let's determine the height of the armhole (Vpr), for this we draw a segment J'B4 and F'1B'1 (F'1B'1 is perpendicular to the chest line BB5). Add the values of the segments J'B4 and F'1B'1 (Fig. 16)

(19). Let's draw a vertical line LO = Dr. On this vertical we set aside the segment LM = Wok. From the point O we set aside up and down 1.5 cm - we get the levels of the lower points on the lines of the front and elbow rolls of the sleeve. Let's denote the points O' and O". Let's determine the location of the elbow line: segment MN = 1/2*O'M - 1.5cm, segment NO' = 1/2*O'M + 1.5cm. Let's draw horizontal lines from all points (Fig. 17).

(20). From the point M upwards, set aside the segment MM '= 1/4 * Shpr. Set aside 1.5 cm along the elbow line from point N - point N 'is obtained (Fig. 18).

(21). From the point O 'on an oblique lay off the value of 1/2 * Shrn until the intersection with the straight line from the point O ”(this is convenient to do with a compass). Let's get the point P. From the point N 'let's set aside along the line of the elbow the segment N'Q \u003d 1/2 * Shn + 4-5cm. Connect the points P and Q. PQ - the lower part of the elbow roll of the sleeve (Fig. 19).

(22). From point M 'on an inclined straight line, set aside the value of Shp until it intersects with the horizontal from point L (this is convenient to do with a compass). Point L1 received. Let's draw a small vertical down from this point (Fig. 20).

(23). Vertical L1L'1 \u003d 1/4 * Spr. We divide the segment LL1 with additional points. L2 - the middle of the segment LL1, point L' - the middle of the segment LL2, L2L'2 = 1/3*L2L1. Let's draw segments as shown in Fig. 21.

(24). At a distance of 2 cm from the point M1 to the left, we find the point M'1. Let's draw a segment M'1L'1. On this segment from the point L'1, we set aside the segment L'1R = 2cm. Draw a horizontal line through the point R until it intersects with the continuation of the segment L1L'1 at the point R'. On the continuation of RR', we set aside the segment R'R1=R'R. Connect L'1 and R1 (Fig. 22).

(25). With the help of guides and additional points, we draw the sleeves from M 'to R1. From M ”set aside 4cm to the right. We get point M3. Draw the segment M3N2 parallel to the segment M”N’. Let's mirror the segment M3N2 with respect to M”N' - we will get the segment M2N1. From the point M3, using the guide M'1R, draw the lower part of the eye (Fig. 23).

(26). Let's complete the lower part of the eye by connecting the points M' and M3 with a smooth curve. Let's mirror this arc with respect to M'M" - we will get another lower part of the M'M2 circle. Connect point Q on the elbow line with points R and R1. From the point N2 we set aside the segment N2O2 parallel to N'O'. The segment O'O2 will be mirrored with respect to N'O'. Let's draw the segment N1O1 (Fig. 24).

(28). Let's draw the lines of the elbow sections in the upper part of the sleeve with smooth lines (Fig. 25).

It is necessary to check the size of the fit on the sleeves. It should be 8-10% of Dpr (depending on the properties of the material). Also, be sure to check the pairing of the sleeve parts.

To set up printing of pattern No. 552 of A4 format, use "Test square No. 2"! The test square is located on the first sheet in the pattern file.

Pattern of a men's jacket-Alaska. Men's Alaska jacket with a straight silhouette, medium volume, hip-length. On the front, slanted upper pockets with leaflets and lower pockets with leaflets and flaps. Raglan sleeves, stitched knitted cuff at the bottom of the sleeve. The hood gathers on the wings, and is also pulled together at the back with a strap with a buckle. The fastener is central with a braid-zipper, decorated with external and internal windproof strips. The outer placket fastens with hidden buttons and hinged loops and buttons. There is a zippered pocket on the left side of the inside.

Increases in freedom of fit incorporated in the pattern: Increase in chest girth - 32.0 cm, Increase in shoulder girth - 25.0 cm

The length of the product along the middle seam of the back in finished form, in cm:44 size: 81.9 - 84.9, 46 size: 82.1 - 88.1, 48 size: 82.3 - 88.3, 50 size: 82,5 – 88,5, 52 size: 82.7 - 88.7, 54 size: 82.9 - 88.9, 56 size: 83.1 - 89.1, 58 size: 83.3 - 89.3

Recommended sewing material: we recommend using thin raincoat fabrics such as "MONCLER", jacket fabrics, raincoat fabrics with a hydrophilic membrane for this model; new generation synthetic insulation with a protective layer on both sides, for example, ISOSOFT 34 200 g/m2. Lining fabrics - viscose, mixed lining fabrics. For lining the hood, you can use the top fabric, natural or artificial fur, fleece or any tight knitwear.

Material consumption at width 140cm: 44 size: 3.4 - 3.5 m, 46.48 size: 3.5 - 3.6 m., 50.52.54 size: 3.6 - 3.7 m, 56.58 size : 3.7 - 3.8 m

Pattern details are given with processing allowances.

The degree of complexity of tailoring - "Advanced level"

We want you to enjoy working with Grasser patterns and make the sewing process understandable, soa file with a very detailed description is attached to the pattern, which describes all the stages of work on the product, with step-by-step PHOTOS OF SEWING TECHNOLOGY! Also in the descriptiondetailed information on the required consumption of fabric, materials and accessories is given.

For sewing you will need the following equipment:

Universal sewing machine;
Iron with or without steam;
Double foot;
Single foot;
Lavash for the WTO or a wooden iron;
Ironing table or console;
Hand needle for estimating work;
Machine needles Microtex (Microtex) No. 80;
Paper scissors;
Scissors for cutting materials;
Pliers or press to install buttons.

The pattern in your order will be in two print options:

1. For printing on A4. You need to print the pattern on a regular printer on A4 sheets, then glue the sheets, cut out the pattern and you can sew!

2. For printing on a wide-format plotter. Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60 * 226 cm.Top pattern details58 sizes are located on 2 sheets measuring 60 * 248 cm.

A photo of the Quiksilver jacket is presented for a visual demonstration of the model of pattern No. 552 from the GRASSER design bureau.

We were inspired to create this pattern by photos from the Internet. It was these photos that “inspired” us, because we do not pursue the goal of completely repeating what we saw: on the contrary, our goal is to create a unique product. The model of the product may differ from the photo from the original source, the exact image of the model is shown in the technical drawing.

Natalya 14.01.2020 04:00:40

Tell me, please, according to the OD 100 cm, 50 size is suitable. But, if you put Alpolux 150 insulation on the top details and 100 on the lining, is it necessary to take a pattern one size larger?

Administrator: Hello, yes, it is better to take a pattern one size larger.

Aigul 21.12.2019 02:12:48

Good afternoon Please tell me which size would be better. OG - 106. FROM - 106. ABOUT - 103

Administrator: Hello, fit size 52

Kate La 17.12.2019 01:06:23

Please tell me: if the fur is placed on the inner bar - where is the pile directed? In the hood or outside?))

Administrator: Hello, we did outside.

05.12.2019 00:14:53

Hello. Help with the hood. Already gone robe lining, top with pockets. And the hood is just a stumbling block. The hood assembled the center, the rear side parts and the front side parts, and then I can’t understand where the outer strap of the hood, the drawstring should look like, small oblique pieces where. If only I could see a photo of the hood.

Administrator: Hello, we are preparing a new detailed description of tailoring for this model in a new format, with a photo.

In the meantime, a hint for you on the hood:

1. Place an eyelet on the drawstring of the hood. Fold the drawstring in half, face out.
2 Stitch (sew) a part of the inner part of the hood to the inner strap of the hood.
3. Stitch (sew) all parts of the hood lining together. When attaching (sewing) the inner strap of the hood to the lining of the hood, the drawstring is also sewn together.

4. Connect the lining of the hood and the hood along the outer cut.
5. Thread the cord into the drawstring, and then this cord must be brought out to the front side of the hood. You can try it on and look at the fitting where you want the eyelets on the hood to be.

6. After you have decided on the grommet on the hood, you need to install it. And then connect the stitching seams of the inner and outer slats of the hood to each other.

Julia 01.12.2019 05:30:26

Good evening. What size is better to take for a teenager with parameters 90-76-93 height 165?

Administrator: Hello, the smallest available: size 44 height 170-176

Maria 02.11.2019 17:57:58

Good afternoon
Could you tell me about the parameters 115-123-111 size 58 will fit?

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 58 will fit the specified parameters.

Daria 10/21/2019 20:37:36

Hello, tell me, can I add collars, is it possible in this model? And if not, how to wear such a jacket, in winter it doesn’t blow your neck if you don’t have a scarf? I wanted to see it live, but I couldn't find a photo in your boasts.

Administrator: Hello, you can model the pattern at your discretion. But in this model, the neck is closed, see photos of sewn products under the main photo.

Tatyana 10/16/2019 00:45:12

Hello) tell me 200 is this insulation for the winter?

Administrator: Hello, yes it is winter version.

Daria 09/25/2019 17:09:48

Please tell me what size is better to take OG-110, OT-91, OB-104.5?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will fit you

Victoria Poltoran 16.07.2019 12:02:26

Hello, for parameters 99-104-99, what size is better to take?

Administrator: Victoria, good afternoon!
Size 50 will fit with a possible adjustment at the waistline. Before sewing a product from the main fabric, be sure to sew off the layout!

Victoria Poltoran 03.11.2019 04:24:54

Good night. Tell me, 101-94-102 what size do you need ??? Bought 54, seems big, or is it supposed to be???

Administrator: Hello, no, the pattern should be chosen according to the circumference of the chest. Size 50 is suitable for circumference 101.

Check out our sewing instructions -

Elena 03/25/2019 02:55:43

On the parameters 125-110-115 it turns out 62 size is needed? The 58th largest is listed here. Is it possible to use it somehow with such measurements? Thank you

Administrator: Hello, yes, size 62 will fit the indicated parameters. This model is not available in size 62.

The increase in this model is significant, just for a winter model with insulation. If you take two sizes down, the product may fit, but the fit will not be like a winter jacket. You can sew a layout and see on the layout if you are satisfied with the fit of the product according to the pattern two sizes smaller.

Ulyana 05.03.2019 01:52:14

Hello. My husband's chest is 112 cm, but you write that a thick insulation is 200 g. And if I want to sew on a thin spring? .. maybe it makes sense to take the 54th size then? ..and one more request, can you measure the width of the back and front under the armhole for size 54? I will be very grateful to you. I do not want to buy the "wrong" patterns.

Administrator: Hello, yes, for the indicated volume and without insulation, you can take size 54, but be sure to sew a layout, it will help you check the volume and fit of the product.

Natalya 24.01.2019 23:28:19

Good afternoon Please tell me, in size 56, what is the width of the back on the pattern?

Administrator: Hello, the width of the back detail without allowance is 35.2 cm

08.12.2018 22:11:07

Good evening! Please tell me, for the parameters - OG 106, OT 105, OB 106, what is the best pattern size to take 52 or 54?

Administrator: Hello, size 54 will fit you.

Lena 02.12.2018 13:43:24

Good morning. You can sew this pattern for a woman. I sewed 399 Alaska, it turned out very bulky on me. Here the sleeve is raglan, I think the top will not be so big.

Administrator: Hello, this is a male design, we do not recommend sewing women's products according to a male design, since female and male models have significant design differences, especially in such serious products. You can sew as you wish.

Gashina 20.11.2018 02:54:28

Good afternoon, tell me what size to choose for parameters og 112, from 103, about 115. Thank you

Administrator: Hello, size 56 will fit you

Love 09.11.2018 02:36:16

Hello!
For parameters og98, ot75, ob94 for Alpolux 200 insulation, which size is better to take. I usually take 48, but how will the insulation affect?

Buying a thing in the store, people face a number of problems. Either there is no suitable size, or the color of the buttons is not to your liking, or it does not fit well, or the sleeve is too wide. In general, choosing the ideal model is not always possible.

Each of us at least once thought about self-tailoring things, but often it is postponed until later. Only a few bring the matter to the end, starting to sew things on their own. The rest continue to wear purchased items that they do not quite like. But once you decide to experiment and sew an ideal model for yourself a skirt, shirt, dress, thing for a child, and then, having gained experience, you can move on to more complex models. For example, you can sew outerwear yourself, then your jacket or coat will definitely be unique and unrepeatable. Let's try to sew a product on the pattern of a men's jacket. Your man will be pleasantly surprised to receive a new jacket of the right size and perfect fit as a gift.

Where to start?

The most difficult thing for a beginner seamstress is to find a good pattern. It is not necessary to have a ready-made pattern for a men's jacket in stock. You can take an old jacket, inspect where, where and what is sewn on, draw a model on paper that is planned for sewing. Then take a suitable sample of a men's jacket pattern and build a diagram yourself.

The pattern of a men's jacket is the basis of all work. The fate of the finished product depends on the quality of its execution. Therefore, you should take this stage of work very responsibly. So, we start building a pattern for a men's jacket by drawing the desired model on large sheets of paper, then cutting out pieces on unnecessary fabric and fitting them to the mannequin. Thus, having an ideal finished pattern, you can proceed directly to sewing.

Step #1. We prepare the necessary materials

For sewing, we need a sewing machine and all sewing accessories: threads, scissors, needles, a ruler, a pencil, a centimeter meter and other little things. It is also important to decide in advance what fabric the jacket will be made of, how to insulate it, decorate it.

For a warm autumn men's jacket you will need:

faux leather fabric,
raincoat fabric (for separate parts of the jacket)
lining material
insulation (synthetic winterizer)
1 long zipper
2 small zippers on pockets
some fabric for decoration
fur belt on the hood.

So, having prepared all the necessary materials and patterns for a men's jacket with a hood, let's get to work.

Step #2. Transferring the pattern to fabric

Using a piece of chalk or soap, we transfer the elements of the jacket from paper to the main fabric and insulation, adding a couple of centimeters along the edges to the seams. We get the same pattern of a men's jacket, but already on the fabric. When everything is drawn, carefully with sewing scissors we cut out along the contour of the jacket part from the main fabric and insulation. It is also necessary to cut out the details for the hood and 2 patch pockets.

Step #3. We sew pockets

To make the pockets the same and beautiful, it is advisable to draw a pattern for them too.

The sewing process itself begins with sewing on the insulation. For convenience, it is better to make a double layer, so the first one needs to be stitched with the top of the jacket, the second layer with the lining. An important point - if you are going to make the top of the jacket quilted, then you need to leave good allowances, 7-10 centimeters along all seams, since the fabric is pulled together when stitching. You can prepare pockets. To do this, take a cut out pocket and attach a zipper to it. We repeat the same with the second pocket. You can sew a zipper right away on a sewing machine, without weaving, as traces may remain on the raincoat fabric from weaving.

We sew stripes on the second part of the shelf, a little larger in size than our pocket will be. We fold the shelves with the front sides, mark the pocket and stitch. Cut off the excess insulation. Next, we apply a pocket zipper to the stitched rectangle and also sew at a low speed of the sewing machine. We cut out the pocket burlap itself from the lining and fleece and attach it to the zipper. We repeat the same with the second pocket.

Step number 4. Putting together a jacket

To assemble the upper part of the jacket, you need to make darts on the back, then sew the shoulder seams, outline the places for the sleeve.

Let's take the sleeves. We sew a heater to the wrong side of the sleeve, sew a lining on top of it and attach everything on a sewing machine. Similarly, we repeat with the second sleeve and briefly put it aside. Now, based on the pattern of the men's jacket, we sew the lining. This is done by analogy with sewing a jacket from the base material. We transfer the pattern from paper to fabric, cut out and attach the front parts to the back, sew the shoulder seams. When there is already a sewn lining and sewn parts from the base material, we do the same from the insulation material. Thus, we have, as it were, 3 unfinished jackets and fully finished sleeves.

Now it's time for the hood. To do this, we take it from paper to fabric, to the lining and insulation, we cut it all out and baste it.

Do not forget to cut off the excess insulation so that nothing sticks out under the seams. Now we decide whether we make the hood removable or not. If the hood on the jacket is not removable, then we attach the main fabric of the hood to the main fabric of the jacket, there will be a heater between them, and we sew the linings together. If the hood is removed, then we attach it to the jacket in the same sequence, but with the help of a zipper, namely: we attach one strip of lightning to the hood to its lower part, sew the second half into the jacket.

It turns out that we have a ready-made hood separately from the jacket, which, if necessary, we can fasten. Buttons can be used instead of a zipper for a detachable hood. For beauty, you can sew a fur edge on the edges of the hood. It can be made in one piece or with a zipper so that it can be removed if necessary. If the hood itself is solid, then it makes no sense to make a detachable edge.

Step #5 completion

Now you need to connect all the details of the jacket together. We have the jacket itself, a hood and 2 sleeves. Turn the jacket inside out and sew on the sleeves. We connect the lining with the lining, the main part with the main part. We fasten the hood - and the jacket is ready. If you wish, before attaching the sleeves, you can make cuffs from a dense fabric or knit so that the lining does not accidentally stick out from under the sleeve.

We conclude that sewing a jacket is not difficult if there is a good pattern, because it is the basis for a men's jacket, as well as for sewing for any product.

For men's jacket design we need measurements for an individual or standard figure, a table of allowances for a loose fit, tracing paper and a pencil.

Measures required to build a drawing:

Half-girth of the neck - Ssh

Half bust - SG

Chest Width - W

Back length - Dts

Back Width - Ws

Shoulder Width - W

Sleeve length - dr

Product length - Di

If you do not know how to take measurements correctly, follow the link - Standard measurements -.

Mesh building

All pattern construction WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES

We build an angle with a vertex at a point Ao.

Grid Width

We measure a segment equal to the width of the product along the chest line Ao a2 \u003d Cr + Pg, i.e. half-girth of the chest + an increase in free fit (9 cm).

Mesh length

From ao down we measure the length of the product (according to the model): DI + 2.5 + 3 cm(on an elastic band) and denoted by a dot H.

From a2 draw a straight line down to the level H and denote H2.

From H to the right draw a horizontal line to the segment a2 D2 and denote H2.

Our drawing consists of 3 parts: back, armholes and shelves.

Calculated from Shs, Shg and Pr on a free bond to these sites.

back width

from point Ao measure the line to the right Ao a \u003d Shs + Pr (3 cm).

Shelf width

from point a2 measure the segment to the left a2 a1 \u003d Wg + Pr (2 cm).

Armhole depth

The depth of the armhole does not need to be calculated using the formula. Values are taken from 20 cm.

from point ao down we measure 20 cm and designate G.

from point G draw a horizontal line to the right and denote G2.

from point A And a1 draw vertical lines down, limiting the armhole section in width and designate G1 G3.

points G1 And G3 divide into hits and mark with a dot G4; from this point down we lower the perpendicular to the segment H H2 and denote H1.

Waistline

from point ao down we measure Dts + 2.5 and denoted by a dot T.

From T draw a horizontal line to the right and denote T1 T2.

Back construction

Neck

from point ao to the right we measure a segment equal to Ssh: 3 + Pshgor (1 cm) and denoted by a dot A1.

from point A1 down draw a vertical line equal to 2.5 cm and denote 1 .

from point 1 to the left draw a horizontal line to a straight line And he and denote 2 .

points A1 And 2 connect with a smooth line.

Shoulder

from point A down we measure 3 cm and put a point 3 .

from point A1 through a point 3 we measure Shp (shoulder width) + 1 cm. and denote P.

Armhole

Let's find an auxiliary point 4 . For this segment a G1 divide into three equal parts (see fig.). points P 4 G4 connect with a smooth line.

You can draw this line by hand or use a template.

Building a shelf

Neck

from point a2 down we measure 2 cm and designate 5 .

from point 5 to the left we measure Ssh: 3 + 2 cm. and denote A2.

from point 5 down we measure the segment 5 A3 \u003d a2 A2 - 1 cm.

points A2 A3 we connect with a smooth line by hand or according to the "droplet" pattern.

If it is difficult for you to draw a line by hand, then we build a right angle A2 8 A3 and from the point 8 cut the corner in half with a dot 9 . This will be an auxiliary point for the neck.

Shoulder

from point a1 down we measure 5 cm and put a point 6 .

From a point A2 through a point 6 measure shoulder width Shp and denoted by a dot P1.

Armhole

Now cut a1 D3 divide into equal 4 parts, denote the lower part 7 .

We connect the dots with a smooth line P1 7 G4.

Sleeve construction

A sleeve of a shirt cut differs from a set-in sleeve in a larger width and a lower height of the rim.

The height of the eyelet and the degree of deepening of the armhole are interconnected. The more voluminous (wider) the shape of the product, the lower the height of the rim.

To build a sleeve, draw two mutually perpendicular lines centered at a point O1.

Eye height

Eye height - segment O1 O2- is determined depending on the shape of the product:

O1 O2 = 3-7 cm- for products of voluminous soft form - (height of the rim from 4 cm),

O1 O2 = 8-11 cm- for products of a more relaxed form with moderate softness - (the height of the rim is from 4-9 cm),

O1 O2 = 12-14 cm- for products of the smallest volume - (eye height 2-4 cm).

O2 P1 \u003d O2 P2 \u003d Dpr: 2, Where DPR- the length of the contour of the armhole, and R1 R2- unfolded sleeve width.

Sleeve Width

From O2 with a radius equal to half the length of the armhole (in the drawing of the shelf and back), we make notches on the horizontal line, passing through O1 and denoted by dots R1 R2.

Segments O1 R1 And O1 R2 divide in half and erect perpendiculars.

Now let's define the auxiliary points for the design of the sleeve eye: 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 .

Segments P1 3; 3 O2; O2 4; 4 R2, divide in half.

From the obtained points we restore perpendiculars.

From points 5 And 6 1 cm, from the point 7 - 0.5 cm, from the point 8 - 1.5 cm.

We draw an eye line through points R1 3 O2 4 R2.

The length of the sleeve

from point O2 down, measure the length of the sleeve: O2 M + 3 (on an elastic band) \u003d Druk.

Sleeve width at the bottom

On a horizontal line from a point M measure the sleeve width (according to the model): M M1 = M M2 = Sh hand below (finished).

Elasticized cuff

We draw a rectangle with a length equal to the bottom of the sleeve and a width equal to the width of the elastic band (if the rubber will be ground together with the cuff).

And if the elastic is inserted into the cuff, then + 0.5 cm.

Collar construction

The construction of the stand-up collar is very simple and is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. Collar height is up to you. Expand the top of the collar a little.

Pocket

The model features welt pockets with zippers with leaflets.

We draw a leaf 19 cm long and 3 cm wide.

2 sheets per pocket.

Let's draw a burlap pocket, the length of the entrance is equal to the length of the leaflet, and the shape is arbitrary.

plank

The plank is rectangular in shape. We draw a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the shelf in the center + the height of the collar (Fig. a).

The plank consists of one piece with a fold.

If you want rounded ends of the plank, then we round the ends of the plank as shown in figure b and when cutting we need 2 parts.

The design of the men's jacket is finished.

Before laying out the parts on the fabric, check the number of parts and the direction of the shared thread on each of them.

Warning: according to this article it is impossible to learn how to cut a jacket, since the description contains only the very basis of the pattern without additional details and nuances of the cutting technique. Training in cutting and sewing classic men's clothing should be done ONLY under the guidance of experienced tutors who are qualified as a "tailor of men's outerwear". Neither "fashion designer" nor "designer", but "tailor of men's outerwear".

The description of the basis is published at the numerous requests of visitors to the site of Vera Olkhovskaya, only in order to convey to them the level of complexity of the issue.

Table of measurements for building a pattern for the base of a men's jacket

To build a base pattern for a jacket (a men's jacket is meant - Fig. 1, since a similar female shoulder product is called a jacket), the following measurements will be needed. Remove them from the figure and enter in the table of measurements:

Point of convergence of shelves

Op (desired sleeve width on the shoulder)

Oz (sleeve width at the bottom)

In the "calculated" section of the table, it is advisable to pre-write and calculate all the formulas available below in the description. This will significantly reduce the time of working on the drawing and the construction logic will become more understandable.

Vg for this design is removed from the lateral point of the neck to the most convex point of the chest.

Building a pattern for the base of a jacket for men

Step back from the bottom horizontal cut of the sheet 1-2 cm to lengthen the shelf (Fig. 2.) and draw a horizontal line at the bottom. Measure up from it Di and draw reference horizontal for the back.

Waistline is down from the original horizontal by a length Ds. hip level down from waist to

1/2Ds minus 2.5 cm

armhole line- up from the waist to

dB minus 2 cm

Blade level- up 1/3 of the distance between the level of the armhole and the original.

Please note: the lines of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom are common for the front and back, and the lines of the shoulder blades and the original back are drawn only to the width of the back - about 1/3 of the width of the sheet.

Now that the contours are ready, let's build middle seam(Fig. 3). It will be in contact with the original vertical only at the point of its intersection with the level of the shoulder blades. On the original horizontal of the back, step back from the original vertical by 0.5 cm, waist - from 2 to 4 cm. The greater the indent, the higher the degree of fit of the product. Now let's take the average - 3 cm. On the hips from the original vertical - on 0.5 cm less than waist.

The middle seam is drawn in a certain sequence. The waist and hips are connected by a straight segment, which is extended in a straight line to the bottom. Waist - shoulder blades: the upper third of this segment is straight, and the lower two thirds are with a deflection 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The shoulder blades - the original - are connected smoothly.

1/3Ssh + 1.5 cm

measured along the original horizontal, and from the resulting sprout width points- set aside sprout height

1/3 sprout width + 0.5 cm

In the formed right corner we build bisector long

0.6 sprout height

and draw a smooth curved line.

Examples of patterns for men's clothing:

Old cutters advise when cutting to lengthen the middle seam of the back by 0.3 cm up (see the picture in the bubble) to compensate for some tightness of the machine stitch in the bartack area. If this is not done, a small notch will appear in the middle of the sprout. It is not necessary to lengthen the shoulder and side seam in this way, since the armhole will undergo a fit before the sleeve is rolled in.

shoulder cut, as in a dress, we build, connecting the highest point of the sprout with shoulder point, which is formed at the intersection of two arcs made with the following radii:

from the highest point of the sprout - R 1 \u003d Dp + 1 cm, Where 1 cm- the size of the puff;

from the middle seam at the waist - R 2 \u003d Vpk + 1.5 cm, Where 1 cm- rise to the shoulder pad and more 0.5 cm for a prank.

About sutyuzhka(Fig. 4)

The value of the suture around the area of the shoulder blades is equal to 1.5 cm. For tight-fitting products, the suture can be increased to 2 cm. Distribute the plot like this: 0.5 - 1 cm- in the shoulder cut and 1 cm in the armhole For stooped figures or if the fabric is stiff, you can tuck from the shoulder 1 - 2 cm, but this will not make the suture in the armhole area unnecessary.

By the way, modern sewing workshops are equipped with special presses with an ideal concavity shape. The details of the back are placed under the press and in a few seconds they get the perfect shape of the back. The working surfaces of shelf presses have their own specific concave shape. At home and in a small atelier, you have to dress with an iron and a tailor's pillow, relying only on the eye and the shape of the tailor's mannequin at your disposal.

Now we will limit the back in width at the level of the shoulder blades. Previously, the total increase in the chest - Pg- distribute between the main sections of the drawing:

add 30% to the back

Shs + 0.3 Pg

Shg + 0.4 Pg

to the armhole the remaining 30%. armhole width we calculate according to the formula:

(Sg + Pg) - (Shs + Shg + 0.7Pg)

Use the following formulas to check your calculations.

Back width = 0.4Sg + 0.3Pg

Shelf width = 0.35Sg + 0.4Pg

Armhole width = 0.25Sg + 0.3Pg

Of course, all formulas are given for conditionally proportional figures.

Set aside the calculated value of the back at the level of the shoulder blades.

Point of armhole touching the back width vertical- up from the level of the armhole to 8 - 9 cm. It can be calculated using the formula

1/12Cr + 0.3 armhole width

Bisector from the corner of the back armhole about 4 cm. Formula:

0.15 armhole width + 1.5 cm

And point touching the armhole to the level of the same name is at a distance

1/2 armhole width

from the vertical that defines the width of the back.

By connecting both points of contact through the bisector of the angle, you will get the back half of the armhole curve.

Back side seam(Fig. 5). The position of the top of the side seam of the back of the jacket can be different. The larger the size and / or the looser the jacket, the greater the distance between the top of the armhole angle and the vertical that determines the width of the back to the side seam. So for sizes

from 48 to 52 use the distance 1.5 - 2 cm,

for 52 – 56 distance 2 - 4 cm,

for 56 - 60 increase to 4 - 6 cm,

and after the 60th we retreat 1/4 armhole width .

Let's say we got the value 2 cm.

Now, the width of the back detail along the hips

0.8 back width at the level of the shoulder blades + distance to the side seam + 1 cm

Having measured the calculated width from the middle seam of the back along the horizontal of the hips, lower the vertical from the obtained point to the bottom and draw a straight line (dotted line) upward from it until it intersects with the top of the side seam and armhole. From this guideline, measure to the waist to the left. 1 cm. Connect the "one" with a straight line to the hip point and a concave line to the highest point of the side seam on the curved armhole.

You need to think about the placement of the shelf. Two options are possible here.

Amateurish. We retreat from the right edge of the sheet of paper the approximate width of the lapel. For the classic version, taking into account two basics, it is enough 6 - 7 cm. Unfortunately, this method does not guarantee accuracy.
Professional. We calculate the width of the shelf along the hips, add the size of the solution of the tuck from the armhole (if such is conceived), the expansion of the shelf along the bottom 1-2 cm. And a couple more centimeters for the convenience of drawing a shelf.

So, the width of the shelf along the hips is

Sat + Fri minutes back width at hips

The size of the tuck solution from the armhole – 2.5 cm.

There is little expansion at the bottom.- no more 1 cm.

The calculated width, equal to the sum of the above values, is set aside along the bottom line to the right of the side seam of the back and draws a vertical half skid.

Half skid - the middle line of the symmetrical shelf and the line corresponding to the middle line of the body in front. The semi-skid in the product is superimposed on the midline of the body, passing through the jugular cavity and the navel. Half-skids of shelves in a jacket, jacket or coat coincide when applied.

Source contour(Fig. 6) for the shelf is at a distance of measurement dpt from the horizontal waist, which is common with the back. In addition to the horizontal waist, we extended the lines of the armhole, hips and bottom.

For typical figures and for building a pattern, instead of dpt you can use the calculation balance:

1/2 (Dpt minus Dts) + 1/2 No. of fullness minus 0.2 Ssh

In this case, the number of completeness is from one to four. Small (M) - 1, medium (C) - 2, large (B) - 3 and in sizes starting from the 58th (OB, that is, very large) - 4.

The balance value is measured upwards from the original backrest, after extending the latter. If the figure is stooped, the balance will be negative and it will have to be measured down from the original horizontal of the back.

Armhole width already calculated and should be postponed from the semi-skid. Formula

Shg + 0.4 Pg

We denote the width of the shelf by a vertical and proceed to the construction of the neck.

Neck Width = Stem Width

Neck height = 0.45 Ssh

As usual, we measure the width along the original horizontal, the height - along the half-slip and connect the obtained points with a smooth line (in Fig. 6 it is blue).

Conditional center of the chest(marked with a cross) we find at the intersection of two perpendicular segments: down from the original - Bg and to the left of the half-skid the distance to the center of the chest. We calculate the distance by dividing in half the width of the shelf to the armhole and retreating 1 cm to the side cut from the division point.

From the intersection of the semi-skid and the horizontal of the height of the chest with a radius 13 cm draw a notch, along which we measure from the semi-skid into the shelves 0.7 cm. "0.7" is connected to the point of intersection of the half-skid and the chest height line.

To simplify the next operation, put a sheet of tracing paper or dense polyethylene on the fabric and circle the neck (blue) you built, the upper part of the half-slip to the chest height line and the chest height horizontal itself. After cutting along the stroke, lay the resulting pattern on the sloping line drawn through "0.7" and circle it.

By this action, we took into account the bulge of the chest.

But you can just lay the corner of the shelf 1 cm. It is located at the height of the chest. In order to account for it, a sheet with a stroke is superimposed on the upper side of the corner (hatching). This method is simpler, although fashion designers will be indignant at such simplicity.

Now let's return to the neck already to the one that turned out after the turn (Fig. 8).

Neck tuck. The easiest way is to use the neck lines obtained by the first and second rotation of the shelf fragment (gray dotted line and thick black line). For each of these necks, from the bottom points, measure along 4 cm. Between the fours, draw a line to the center of the chest and use it as tuck symmetry line. tuck length - 5 - 7 cm. Based on the value you have chosen, design the tuck, aligning its lines along the “solid black” neckline.

The height of the armhole of the shelf is equal to the height of the armhole of the back minus the suture.

In this case, the height of the armhole should be measured from the extreme point of the shoulder vertically to the level of the armhole. Let me remind you that the suture of the armhole of the back is 1 cm and we do not take it into account when measuring.

Auxiliary armhole points. We start by marking the full width of the armhole from the vertical of the shelf width, we find touch point with armhole level, dividing the width of the armhole in half.

Then, placing the paper under the fabric, we trace with a cutter a part of the armhole of the back - from the vertical of the top of the side seam of the back to the point where the armhole of the back touches. The resulting figure (pink triangle) is cut out, superimposed and outlined (Fig. 9).

Tangent point on the shelf width vertical calculated by the formula

0.3 armhole width + 1.2 cm

The value is measured up from the level of the armhole.

shoulder point located at the intersection of two arcs.

First arc performed with a radius equal to the segment from the point of contact on the vertical to the level of the height of the armhole of the shelf. In the drawing, this segment is indicated by curly brackets and R1. The center in which the leg of the compass is placed is shifted by 0.5 cm to a half-skid from a point on the vertical. Second arc, you guessed it, is performed by the radius Dp from the side of the neck.

Upper deflection of the armhole is usually 2.5 - 3 cm, but it can be calculated using the formula

0.1 armhole bend + 0.8 cm

The segment to be bent should be divided in half and a perpendicular of the appropriate length should be built to it.

Armhole angle bisector– the last point required to complete the curve – is 2 - 2.5 cm. But it can also be calculated using the formula

0.15 armhole width

To check, you can use the armhole length formula:

0.2 SG + 1.6 armhole width + 2 armhole freedom + 14 cm,

while the increase in the freedom of the armhole, as mentioned earlier, is 30% of Pg.

When checking, compare the calculated value with the length of the armhole measured along the curve. The main mistake of beginners is to measure the length of the armhole twice using the copied dark triangle (near the touch point at the level of the armhole). The ideal difference between measurement and calculation does not exceed 1 cm.

Continuing the drawing, measure the width of the shelf along the hips from the half-skid, using the formula

(Sat + Pb) minus the width of the back at the hips

Extending the vertical to the waist from the top of the side seam of the shelf, connect the resulting waist point with the side femur and extend the line to the bottom.

This value is given to take into account the height of the shoulder pad from the side of the shelf. If necessary, a shrinkage coefficient is added to this value, which is calculated similarly to the stretch coefficients.

To make things easier, lower 1 cm waist level on a semi-skid and extend the vertical chest center to the waist and 1 cm down. Connect the "units" and the point of intersection of the side seam with the waist with straight segments.

To shape the bottom, lengthen the half skid by 1 cm and connect with the side point at the bottom.

Pocket. The pocket entry length in most cases is 15 - 16 cm. But for the calculation, you can use the formula

0.15 Cr + 8.5 cm ,

while the maximum length of the entrance for heroic sizes 18 cm.

The pocket line in this model is marked down from the waist level to 7 - 8 cm and parallel to the bottom of the shelf, while the vertical width of the shelf should divide the segment of the entrance to the pocket in half.

Armhole tuck can be either with two vertices (solid line) or with one (blue line). In any case, we start marking from the line of symmetry of the tuck, for which we measure the width of the shelf from the vertical at the level of the armhole 3.5 - 4 cm, and affordable - 2.5 - 3 cm from its midpoint.

Armhole tuck solution waist in the vast majority of cases is 2 - 2.5 cm. If the tuck will have one vertex, then its opening at the level of the armhole will also be equal to 2 - 2.5 cm. To compensate for the loss of the length of the armhole, the barrel area (shaded) is shifted to the side by the amount of the solution and is shaped with smooth lines.

For slender young men, you can add another tuck above the pocket. Solution - 1 cm, length 12 - 14 cm. Distance from the beginning of the entrance to the pocket 1 - 2 cm.

In conclusion, it remains to level the side sections of the shelf and back (curly braces and equal sign) from the waist to the bottom and draw the bottom of the shelf with a smooth line with a deflection of about 0.5 cm.

The base is ready. almost ready…

Before you start building lapel(Fig. 10), it is necessary to shift the shoulder seam: rise for the back and lower for the shelf by 0.5 cm. In addition, the shoulder of the shelf must be extended towards the neckline by 2 — 3 cm and, having marked on the half-skid the point of convergence of the shelves according to the measure, connect the “convergence” with the “troika”. Thus, you will receive lapel fold line.

The neck will also require correction - it is lowered by half skid by 1 - 3.5 cm. The neck curve is then extended to vertical edge of the board.

The flyaway part of the lapel is made out with a barely convex line. If the fabric is striped, the bulge cannot exceed 0.3 - 0.5 cm, since the strip should go along the flying edge.

In models of single-breasted jackets, the lower part of the side is allowed to deviate from 1 to 4 cm. For our drawing, take 1 cm.

If desired, the bottom of the side can be rounded, but it is better to make a bulge along the edge of the side with an angle that turns into the bottom line. This will simplify the subsequent processing of the product at the stage of connecting the “top” with the lining.

markup leaflets: length 10 - 12 cm, the slope is arbitrary. The distance from the armhole to the beginning of the entrance to the pocket is not less than 7 cm. Lapel entry - no more 1/3 length.

In addition to the topic of the basis of a men's jacket with an English collar, we recommend that you look at:

How to build a base pattern for a men's T-shirt yourself

T-shirts are a staple of any men's wardrobe. They are worn by absolutely all men, regardless of age, status and style of clothing. And for some men (for example, very tall ones) it is very difficult to find a T-shirt in size. I propose to independently build the base-pattern of a men's T-shirt and sew beautiful T-shirts for your man with your own hands.

And for those who like to sew with their own hands:

The basics of building a men's T-shirt pattern

When constructing a pattern for a men's T-shirt, we make an increase in the freedom of fitting, depending on the preference of the resulting T-shirt - loose or tight. If the T-shirt will be used as underwear, then the increase in freedom of fitting to the exhaust gas is not taken into account.

Building the back detail

In the upper right corner we put t.A. From t.A down we set aside 1 cm - t.V. From t.A down we put off 1/8 Growth - t.S. From t.A down we put off the measurement of Dts - t.D. From t.D down, set aside the required length of the T-shirt and set i.E.

From t.A to the left we set aside 1/6 Size + 1 cm - t.G. From t.G we put a perpendicular of 1 cm upwards - t.G1. We connect it with t.V - we get a neckline for the back.

From t.A to the left we set aside ½ Shs + 1cm - t.N. From t.C to the left, we set aside a segment equal to ¼ OG + Increase in freedom of fitting - t.C1. From t.E to the left we set aside a segment equal to the segment CC1, set t.E1. We connect the points C1 and E1 - the line of the side seam.

From t.N down we set aside the perpendicular to the intersection with the segment CC1 - t.I. From t.I we set aside 1/6 of the Size up - t.M. We divide the segment HI in half - t.N1. From it we set aside ½ (НН1 + 1cm) upwards - t.L. From t.L to the left, we set aside a perpendicular of 1-2 cm - t.L1, connect it with t.G1, we get a line of the shoulder bevel. We connect the points L1, H1, M, C1 - the line of the armhole. From t.L1 down along the armhole line, set aside 11 cm, put a double notch - a mark for sewing in a sleeve.

The backrest drawing pattern is ready!

Building the front part

Points A, D, C, E are built in the same way as in the drawing of the back detail. From t.A down, lay off a segment equal to 1/6 Size + 2 cm - t.V. To the right of t.A we set aside 1/6 Size + 1 cm - t.G. We connect with t.B - we get the front neck line.

We postpone the value from t.A to the right, as in the drawing of the back details, set the t.N. From point C to the right, we set aside ¼ OG + Increase in freedom of fitting - point C1. From t.E to the right, we set aside a segment equal to the segment CC1 - t.E1. We connect points C1 and E1.

From t.N down we set aside the perpendicular to the intersection with the segment CC1 - t.I. From t.I we set aside 1/6 of the Size up - t.M. We divide the segment HI in half - t.N1. From it we set aside ½ (НН1 + 1cm) upwards - t.L. From t.G we set aside the length of the shoulder equal to the length of the shoulder in the drawing of the back - t.L1, and t.L, L1 are on the same horizontal line.

According to the pattern, we draw the line of the armhole, connecting the points L1, H1, M, C1. From t.L1 down the line of the armhole, set aside 11 cm, put a single notch - a mark for sewing in a sleeve.

Pattern of a men's jacket - construction