Russian national wedding dress. Interesting on the web

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In all you, darling, outfits are good
The Russian Museum presents...

Pylyaev wrote that "Catherine introduced the elegant simplicity of Russian dress at court." Everyone had to appear at the court in dresses with elements of the Russian national costume. Under Pavel Petrovich, this tradition was not respected. Alexander Pavlovich did not care who was wearing what. Everyone dressed in French fashion. More, incl.

But one day, during the Patriotic War, Golitsyna, who is the "Queen of Spades", appeared at the ball dressed in Russian folk dress as a sign of protest. They say it created a sensation. Unfortunately, no one accurately described what exactly the “mustachioed countess” was dressed up in. Sundress, dushegreya, shugay? From brocade, damask or silk? On the head is a kokoshnik or maybe a magpie? In the spring of this year, an exhibition of Russian folk costumes of the 18th-19th centuries was held in the Benois Wing “In all you, darling, outfits are good” . About 400 items of clothing and jewelry were presented, making up 50 costumes of wealthy townswomen and merchants. Thus, one could see the costumes that inspired Natalya Petrovna to create her ball gown.

Girls' holiday costume. End of the 18th century. Crown, lower, soul warmer, sundress

Sundress. Late 18th century

Sarafan - from the Persian word "sarapa", which literally means "dressed from head to toe." This name was used in Russia from the 14th to the middle of the 17th century in relation to men's clothing. In the future, the term "sarafan" was preserved only in relation to women's clothing. Antique sundresses were with sleeves or simply with wide armholes, oar, with button fasteners up to the very neck. The back of an old skew-wedge sundress was cut along with the straps, this "triangle" in the Nizhny Novgorod province was called a "frog".

Girls' holiday costume. End of the 18th century. Shirt, sundress, headband, veil.

Women's holiday costume. Late 18th - early 19th century. Sundress, shirt, warrior, veil

The cut of the sundress: three straight panels are connected on the back, at the level of the shoulder blades, where the seams are located, into which oblique wedges are inserted - six on each side. The hem of the sundress forms an almost complete circle.

Veil. 18th century

Women's holiday costume. Late 18th - early 19th century. Sundress, shugai, kokoshnik, veil-ditch

Shugay - outerwear with long sleeves, a large collar or without it; with cut back. Shugay was festive clothing and was sewn from expensive materials: damask, velvet, brocade.

A ditch bedspread or ditch veil, after the name of the Syrian city of Kanavat, where silk was produced, is a large rectangular scarf. Ditch bedspreads were expensive, from seven to forty-five rubles. In the proverb “The goal is erratic, and the veil is kanvatna,” one sounds surprised that poor people could wear this expensive thing.

Women's holiday costume. Late 18th - early 19th century. Sundress, shugay, kokoshnik, bedspread, handbag

Women's holiday costume. Late 18th - early 19th century. Sundress, shugai, kokoshnik, bedspread, purse

The costumes of wealthy townswomen and merchants were usually sewn from luxurious fabrics - silk and gold brocade, velvet, damask, and silk fabric "kannelé". Even the lining of a sundress could be silk.

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Women's holiday costume. First half of the nineteenth century. Shugai, skirt, kokoshnik, scarf

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Women's holiday costume. First half of the nineteenth century. Sundress, shugay, scarf

For residents of Torzhok, the right sleeve of the shugai is noticeably longer than the left:

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Women's holiday costume. First half of the nineteenth century. Tver province. Shirt, sundress, shower warmer, headdress "Tver ukrut", scarf.

In Torzhok in 1848 up to five hundred craftswomen were engaged in embroidery of shoes and boots. Shoes intended for the townspeople were sewn from the finest colored morocco; it was also decorated with gold embroidery.

Kazan province was a major center of shoe production. Russian and Tatar masters worked in Kazan, whose products were sold at the largest fairs in Russia. Women's, children's and men's boots, shoes were made of colored morocco - soft, finely dressed leather. Sewing techniques “in a wheelbarrow”, a kind of leather appliqués, became widespread throughout Russia, they were also adopted by craftsmen from Torzhok.

Women's holiday costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province. Shirt, sundress, dushegreya-collection, kokshnik

Girls' holiday costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province. Headband, shirt, shower warmer, necklace

Girls' holiday costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province. Bandage, sundress, shower warmer

Women's holiday costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province. Shugay, sundress, kokoshnik, headband, scarf

Women's holiday costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province

Women's Old Believer costume. Nizhny Novgorod province. Sundress, scarf, ladder

Women from Old Believer families wore large square kerchiefs, completely covered with embroidered ornaments, in a special way - “in dissolution”, “in loose”. A strip of galloon, sewn to the middle of one of the sides, is lowered low on the forehead. Such expensive gold-embroidered scarves were not available to every woman, even from a wealthy family.

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In the Old Believer village of Chernukha, Arazamassky district, Nizhny Novgorod province, the costume was distinguished by richness and an abundance of gold embroidery. Sundresses and shirts were complemented by brocade and satin aprons. Until 1928, there was a monastery in the village of Chernukha, where hats, "magpies" and warriors, "mice" - shirt shoulders, sundresses, bibs of aprons were embroidered.

Women's Old Believer festive costume. Chernukha village, Nizhny Novgorod province. Shirt, sundress, belt, apron, magpie, breast decoration "beard", breast decoration - "viteyka".

I also note that all Orthodox Karelians also wore the “magpie” headdress.

"Beard" - a breast decoration that complements the women's festive costume of the village of Chernukha. It was a long, from seven to thirty meters, strip of metallic fringe, laid around the neck on the chest in even rows so that the top row slightly overlapped the bottom one. The fringe was supplemented with a cord - "viteyka".

"Mouse" (shirt shoulder)

Girls' Old Believer festive costume. Chernukha village, Nizhny Novgorod province. Shirt, sundress, apron, belt, "beard", headdress - "lenka" (ribbon), knitted boots.

The city of Arzamas was famous throughout Russia for its shoemakers and furriers. In the 1860s, in Arzamas, the Nikolsky Monastery and the village of Vyezdnaya Sloboda, up to ten thousand or more pairs of knitted shoes were made per year. The shoe industry of Arzamas "produced and traded for millions". More than a thousand Arzamas townspeople were engaged in knitting shoes with felt inside, and this occupation was predominantly male.

Velvet shoes embroidered with gold and boots and low shoes knitted from colored wool with leather or felt soles were worn for gatherings in boxes as “replacement shoes”.

Women's festive costume "Damask". Second half of the nineteenth century. Chernukha village, Nizhny Novgorod province
"Damask" - outerwear, povoynik, scarf, belt, half boots

At the Shrovetide festivities in Chernukh, over the festive attire, they wore a “damask” (or “damask sundress”), certainly burgundy or cherry, decorated with galloon, fringe, with an oblique row of buttons and cord loops.

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Winter holiday costume. Arkhangelsk province. Fur coat, sundress, kichka, shawl

Festive clothes of the inhabitants of the North - fur coats. The collection of the Russian Museum has preserved a silk fur coat lined with cotton wool and trimmed with fur. On the chest, it is tied with ribbons for three bows. At the end of the 18th - the first half of the 19th century, the fur coat was part of the girl's wedding dress, it was fashionable clothing in the cities of the Russian North.

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Girls' holiday costume. XIX century. Vologda province. Shirt, sundress, bib, bandage, half-shawl

In Solvychegodsk district, the costume was complemented by silk scarves and shawls. Moreover, the girls often wore folded shawls on their hands, several at a time.

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Bandage suit. XIX century. Arkhangelsk province. Shirt, sundress, scarves - two silk scarves, bandage, shawl

“In Pinezhye at the end of the 19th century, the most elegant clothes and jewelry could be seen at the“ metishche ”- festivities that were held on patronal holidays. They usually lasted two or three days, and the girls changed outfits several times a day. A bride was chosen for the “methische”, the groom was looked after ... “The decoration of these holidays was the girls-"bandages" - this is how girls with a brocade bandage were called in Pinezhye. They stood on the “marked spot”, not daring to move, luxuriously discharged ... a lot of bright ribbons were tied to the back of their heads to a golden armband, “pearl bindings” on their foreheads and temples. Bright red silk shawls worn on the shoulders, threading the ends under the straps of the sundress, were called "alovitsy".

The necessary attributes of the festive attire were also jewelry: silver bracelets and rings, several rows of large amber beads. The girl's neck was hung with many crosses. All their clothes could weigh about forty kilograms.

Wedding suit. XIX century. Arkhangelsk province. A girl's headdress - a bandage, a wedding dress "crown", a fly - a scarf of the bride, a shirt, a shower warmer, a sundress

One of the solemn moments of the Pinega wedding is the rite of “gazing”, when the bride, “dressed and shining like a bird of fire”, was taken to the groom and his family. On the girl, over a golden bandage, a large flat crown still strung with pearls appeared. The bride bowed to each guest, and one of the women - the bridesmaids - supported this magnificent structure.

Wedding suit. Late 18th - early 19th century. Arkhangelsk province. Sleeves, sundress, crown, ribbons to the crown, neck decoration

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Women's holiday costume. XIX century. Vologda province. Shirt, sundress, apron, scarf, belt, headdress - collection

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Shirt - "lining". Beginning of the XX century. Vologda province

The hem of the shirt was called a camp, a stanushka, and the shirt itself with a richly decorated hem was called a hem. The collar of a women's shirt often opened the neck and shoulders wide. Sometimes a low stand tightly embraced the neck, fastened with a small button.

Shirt-mowing. XIX century. Yaroslavl province

Shirts intended for agricultural or other work were called according to the nature of these occupations - “mowing”, “fishing”. Harvesting and mowing shirts were often worn without a sundress, or its hem was raised and plugged into the belt so that the patterns on the shirt were visible.

Fishing shirt. XIX century. Yaroslavl province

On Pinega, catching fish at the table was a woman's business. Going out to fish, women dressed in long white shirts with straight sleeves - "fishermen". A sundress in this case was not supposed to.

Shirt-lining and skirt. 1880s Vologda province

In Western culture, it is traditional for brides to wear a white dress on their wedding day, but the bridal gowns seen on brides from around the world are by no means limited to our usual attire. Some brides adorn themselves with colorful robes, others paint their hands in patterns appropriate to their culture, and some completely hide their faces behind layers of jewelry or veils.

Indian wedding

Traditionally, the wedding dress of the bride is a sari, lenga choli (lehenga) or salwar kameez. The classic Indian wedding dress of the bride should be red, although others are sometimes found, such as purple, burgundy, orange, gold and green.

Nigerian bride

Nigeria is a large country, so wedding practices vary by region, religion, and ethnicity. However, Nigerian brides often wear brightly colored wedding clothes and wear a headdress called Gele on their heads.

Traditional wedding in Ghana

Traditional weddings in Ghana are often very colorful and each family's wedding attire has its own pattern.

Mongolian bride

For the traditional Mongolian marriage ceremony, the bride and groom wear what is known as Deel. Deel is a form of patterned clothing worn for centuries by the Mongols and other nomadic tribes in Central Asia.

Japanese wedding

For a traditional Japanese wedding, the bride often wears a pure white kimono, which symbolizes purity and girlhood. After the ceremony, the bride may change into a red kimono, which symbolizes good luck.

Kazakh bride

For a traditional Kazakh wedding, brides typically wear a headdress known as a "saukele" and also cover their face with a veil. Saukele is usually prepared long before girls reach marriageable age.

Scottish wedding

At a wedding, men in Scotland traditionally wear the kilt of their clan. After the ceremony, the bride wears a headscarf adorned with her new husband's ancestral flowers to signify her transition into a new family.

Hutsul wedding

In the mountain villages of the Ukrainian Carpathians, a wedding is like a fairy tale! Even today, the Hutsuls adhere to such wedding traditions as their parents and great-grandfathers followed. And today they dress in national clothes, decorate their homes, horses and even trees. It should be noted that young people ride festively decorated horses to get married in the church.

Romanian bride

A wedding in northwestern Transylvania is considered an important event. Usually the parents organize the wedding, conducting various rituals, including the preparation of a dowry and costumes.

Goran bride

Gorani are one of the small peoples of the Balkans. Gorani are Muslims by faith, but their traditions and customs contain various pagan elements.

Chinese wedding

In China, red is considered a symbol of good luck, and the Chinese believe that it scares away evil spirits. Therefore, it is not surprising that traditional Chinese wedding dresses are almost always red.

Yakan bride

The Yakans are an ethno-linguistic group that mainly inhabits Basilane Island in the Philippines. Traditional weddings usually consist of two ceremonies, including an Islamic one and an older, pre-Islamic one.

Peruvian bride

Traditional Peruvian wedding attire is often colorful and includes woven capes and hats adorned with tassels and reflective material. A special skirt and poncho is made for the bride on her wedding day.

Wedding in Norway

In Norway, the traditional wedding dress is called Bunad. Also, it can be worn on other occasions such as christenings.

Indonesian wedding

Indonesia has over 17,000 islands, so weddings here vary greatly depending on where people live and which of the 300 ethnic groups they belong to.

Hamar bride

The Hamars are an East African people living in southwestern Ethiopia, in the fertile region of the Omo Valley. Unmarried women here wear large collars made of red, green and black beads, while married women wear collars made of two different metals.

Korean wedding

The Korean national costume is called hanbok, one of the variations of which Koreans wear at their own traditional wedding.

Traditional Russian wedding dress, Nizhny Novgorod

There are over 185 different ethnic groups in Russia, and many of them have their own separate wedding traditions. Many Russian weddings last for at least two days, and some can last for a whole week.

Uzbek bride

For a traditional Uzbek wedding, the bride wears a colorful hand-embroidered outfit with intricate patterns. The marriage ceremony plays an essential role in Uzbek life.

Turkmen bride

In Turkmenistan, the traditional wedding ceremony involves the bride wearing a red dress made of silk fabric with various silver and gilded decorations.

Bedouin wedding

Bedouin brides often wear a heavy veil over their face, consisting of various pieces of jewelry.

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The earliest information about ancient Russian clothing dates back to the era of Kievan Rus. Since the adoption of Christianity (the end of the 10th century), the peasant men's costume consisted of a canvas shirt, woolen pants and bast shoes with onuchs. A narrow belt adorned with figured metal plaques brought a decorative accent to this simple-cut clothes. A fur coat and a pointed fur hat served as outerwear. From the 16th century, the simplicity and small dissection of the boyars' clothing, which gave solemnity and majesty to the figure, began to be combined with a special showiness of decorative design. Ancient Russian clothing was the same in cut for both tsars and peasants, bore the same names and differed only in the degree of decoration.

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As you know, the Russian women's costume was not the same throughout Russia. In the North they wore a shirt, a sundress and a kokoshnik, in the South - a shirt, a poneva skirt and a kitchka. In the past, the Middle Great Russian clothing complex was clearly visible. It is characterized by: a women's shirt with straight skirts, a skewed (oar) sundress and a later straight "Moscow", a type of wicker shoes (bast shoes, feet), a kokoshnik with a rounded top, etc. The shirt was called "sleeves", (only sleeves were visible from under the sundress). The lower part of the shirt reached the hem of the sundress - it was called "stan" and was sewn from cheaper and often unbleached canvas. A common cut was the cut of a shirt with poliks (shoulder inserts with frills at the neck) and gussets (diamond-shaped inserts under the sleeves, creating comfort when raising the arm.

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Sundresses until the middle of the nineteenth century were mostly oblique, swinging. By the end of the 19th century, straight, round "Moscow" sundresses began to prevail. The name speaks of its urban origin. It appeared, apparently, in Moscow as a festive one among the rich merchants, then, as a Moscow "fashion", it spread to other cities, and then penetrated into peasant clothes, which is confirmed by its daily existence.

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Sundresses made of silk fabrics with lush bouquets and garlands were decorated with gold galloon, metal lace, silver and gilded buttons along the seam performed a decorative function. Such sundresses were worn with white shirts ("sleeves") made of linobatis and muslin, richly embroidered with white threads, or with silk shirts made of "sarafan" fabrics with bouquets. Festive sundresses and shirts were highly valued, they were carefully protected, passed down from generation to generation.

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In Rus', there was an ancient custom common to the Slavs, according to which everywhere a girl's headdress differed from the headdress of a married woman, as well as a hairstyle. A girl could wear her hair loose or braid it in one braid, and a married woman had to braid two braids and, according to custom, had no right to appear with her head uncovered. Hence the specific forms of the headgear - for a woman covering her hair, for girls leaving them open.

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Women wore crescent-shaped kokoshniks embroidered on a velvet or silk base. The first time the kokoshnik was worn on the wedding day, then it was worn on major holidays until the birth of the first child. After that, women wore hairdresses and scarves. Serf embroiderers or nuns in the monastery embroidered red velvet with gold or silver threads, beads and pearls. The velvet blank of the kokoshnik was stretched on a solid base (on birch bark, later on cardboard).

Some couples want to make something special out of a traditional wedding celebration. The option of decorating a wedding "a la russ" is quite an acceptable solution. To do this, you need to decorate the hall, and sew outfits for the bride and groom in the Russian style. Wedding dresses in the Russian style, according to the old tradition, are sewn with a predominance of red. This color has long been considered festive and elegant in Rus'.

Distinctive features of wedding dresses in folk style

The wedding dress in Rus' was multi-layered and richly decorated. The shirt, sewn from linen, silk, and later from cotton fabric, served as underwear, and for the peasants also as an upper. A sundress was worn over the shirt. The cut of the sundress was distinguished by its simplicity. It was sewn from straight pieces of fabric, which expanded downward due to sewn-in wedges.

A shower warmer was worn over the sundress. All items of clothing were richly decorated with embroidery. Sundresses and shower warmers were made of canvas, brocade, dense taffeta and silk, and were decorated with braid, copper buttons, silver or gold embroidery, sheathed with beads or pearls.

Modern wedding dresses "a la russ"

A modern bride does not have to adhere to the strict ritual rules of antiquity. It is enough to style your wedding attire in the spirit of that time.

The main thing is to be guided by old ideas, which contain the picturesqueness and beauty of the past. Embroidery based on folk motifs, the floral pattern of the fabric and the simplicity of the cut will make every bride an irresistible Russian beauty.

According to tradition, the outfit should not be too open or short. The originality of the image is emphasized by floor-length dresses with long sleeves. At first glance, the decoration and bright colors of the wedding dress "a la Russe" may seem colorful and pretentious at first glance, but this should not be frightened - these are the traditions of our ancestors.

Open dresses with a flared bottom and a short bodice perfectly emphasize the dignity of the newlywed's figure, an airy translucent sleeve and a slightly open neckline emphasize the femininity and girlish tenderness of the bride.

Modern cut styles of wedding dresses with elements of the Russian style of clothes of the upper class are perfect for a bride who wants to have a more magnificent wedding dress.

And the old Russian urban wedding suit will add majesty and emphasize the bride's appearance. A similar outfit can be ordered in workshops for the manufacture of folk costumes.

It is not at all necessary to strictly adhere to the traditional canons of Russian embroidery in the decoration of the costume. To create a recognizable Russian image, you can use the motifs and colors of famous folk crafts, such as Khokhloma and Gzhel. The photo shows options for such a finish.

An ideal option for a couple who decides to opt for a Russian-style wedding, but who do not want to add additional trouble to themselves in this regard, diversify some models of wedding dresses with details of Russian decor.

For example, if you add a bolero or a shawl made of Vologda lace to a Provence style dress, no one will doubt that this style belongs to the Russian style.

A sensual and tender image of a Russian beauty will be created by the thinnest cape knitted by craftswomen from Orenburg.

A white fur stole that warms the delicate fragile shoulders of the bride, it's so Russian.

Accessories necessary for a wedding dress "a la russ"

Any wedding dress is necessarily complemented by jewelry. And an outfit in Russian folk style is simply unthinkable without them.

No need to rush when choosing a wedding dress. First of all, you need to take into account your preferences, consult with family and close friends. Most likely they will help you make the right choice or suggest a solution to the problem.
You should not ignore the items and accessories that complement the costume, they add originality and unique flavor to the outfit.
Realizing your dream of making your wedding day unusual and memorable, you should rely more on your taste and desires.