Message about vintage clothes. Russian folk costume

The old clothes of the Russian nobility in their cut generally resembled the clothes of people of the lower class, although they differed greatly in the quality of the material and finish. The body was fitted with a wide shirt, which did not reach the knees, made of simple canvas or silk, depending on the wealth of the owner. At an elegant shirt, usually red, the edges and chest were embroidered with gold and silk, a richly decorated collar was fastened at the top with silver or gold buttons (it was called a “necklace”). In simple, cheap shirts, the buttons were copper or replaced with cufflinks with loops. The shirt was worn over the underwear. Short ports or trousers were worn on the legs without a cut, but with a knot that allowed them to be pulled together or expanded in the belt at will, and with pockets (zep). Pants were sewn from taffeta, silk, cloth, and also from coarse woolen fabric or canvas.

A narrow sleeveless zipun made of silk, taffeta or dyed, with a narrow small collar fastened (encirclement) was worn over the shirt and trousers. Zipun reached the knees and usually served as home clothes.

A common and common type of outerwear worn over a zipun was a caftan with sleeves reaching to the heels, which were folded so that the ends of the sleeves could replace gloves, and in winter serve as a muff. On the front of the caftan, stripes with ties for fastening were made along the slit on both sides of it. The material for the caftan was velvet, satin, damask, taffeta, mukhoyar (Bukhara paper fabric) or simple dyeing. In elegant caftans, sometimes a pearl necklace was attached behind a standing collar, and a “wrist” decorated with gold embroidery and pearls was fastened to the edges of the sleeves; the floors were sheathed with braid with lace embroidered with silver or gold. "Turkish" caftans without a collar, which had fasteners only on the left side and at the neck, differed in their cut from the "stand" caftans with an interception in the middle and with button fasteners. Among the caftans, they were distinguished according to their purpose: dining, riding, rain, "tearful" (mourning). Winter caftans made with fur were called "casings".

Sometimes a “feryaz” (ferez) was put on the zipun, which was an outer garment without a collar, reaching to the ankles, with long sleeves tapering to the wrist; it was fastened in front with buttons or ties. Winter feryazi were made on fur, and summer ones - on a simple lining. In winter, sleeveless feryazi were sometimes worn under the caftan. Elegant feryazi were sewn from velvet, satin, taffeta, damask, cloth and decorated with silver lace.

The cape clothes that were put on when leaving the house included single-row, okhaben, opashen, yapancha, fur coat, etc. Single-row - wide, long-sleeved clothes without a collar, with long sleeves, with stripes and buttons or ties, - usually made of cloth and other woolen fabrics; in autumn and in bad weather they wore it both in sleeves and in a nakidka. A robe looked like a single-row, but it had a turn-down collar that went down to the back, and the long sleeves folded back and there were holes under them for the hands, as in the single-row. A simple coat was sewn from cloth, mukhoyar, and elegant - from velvet, obyari, damask, brocade, decorated with stripes and fastened with buttons. The cut was slightly longer at the back than at the front, and the sleeves tapered to the wrist. The fields were sewn from velvet, satin, obyari, damask, decorated with lace, stripes, fastened with buttons and loops with tassels. The opashen was worn without a belt (“wide open”) and saddle. The sleeveless yapancha (epancha) was a cloak worn in bad weather. A traveling japancha made of coarse cloth or camel hair differed from an elegant japancha made of good fabric lined with fur.

The fur coat was considered the most elegant clothing. It was not only put on when going out in the cold, but the custom allowed the owners to sit in fur coats even while receiving guests. Simple fur coats were made from sheepskin or hare fur, marten and squirrel were higher in quality; noble and rich people had fur coats with sable, fox, beaver or ermine fur. Fur coats were covered with cloth, taffeta, satin, velvet, obyary or simple dye, decorated with pearls, stripes and fastened with buttons with loops or long laces with tassels at the end. "Russian" fur coats had a turn-down fur collar. "Polish" fur coats were sewn with a narrow collar, with fur cuffs and fastened at the neck only with a cuff (double metal button).

Foreign imported fabrics were often used for sewing men's clothing, and bright colors were preferred, especially “wormy” (crimson). The most elegant was considered colored clothing, which was worn on special occasions. Clothes embroidered with gold could only be worn by boyars and duma people. The stripes were always made of a material of a different color than the clothes themselves, and the rich people were decorated with pearls and precious stones. Simple clothes were usually fastened with pewter or silk buttons. Walking without a belt was considered indecent; the belts of the nobility were richly decorated and sometimes reached several arshins in length.

As for shoes, the cheapest were bast shoes made of birch bark or bast and shoes woven from wicker rods; to wrap the legs, they used onuchi from a piece of canvas or other fabric. In a prosperous environment, shoes, chobots and ichetygi (ichegi) made of yuft or morocco, most often red and yellow, served as shoes.

Chobots looked like a deep shoe with a high heel and a pointed toe turned up. Elegant shoes and chobots were sewn from satin and velvet of different colors, decorated with silk embroidery and gold and silver threads, trimmed with pearls. Elegant boots were the shoes of the nobility, made of colored leather and morocco, and later - of velvet and satin; soles were nailed with silver nails, and high heels with silver horseshoes. Ichetygi were soft morocco boots.

With smart shoes, woolen or silk stockings were put on their feet.

Russian hats were varied, and their shape had its own meaning in everyday life. The top of the head was covered with a tafya, a small cap made of morocco, satin, velvet or brocade, sometimes richly decorated. A common headdress was a cap with a longitudinal slit in front and behind. Less prosperous people wore cloth and felt caps; in winter they were lined with cheap fur. Elegant caps were usually made of white satin. Boyars, nobles and clerks in ordinary days put on low hats of a quadrangular shape with a “circle” around the hat made of black-brown fox, sable or beaver fur; in winter, such hats were lined with fur. Only princes and boyars had the right to wear high "throat" hats made of expensive furs (taken from the throat of a fur-bearing animal) with a cloth top; in their form, they slightly expanded upwards. On solemn occasions, the boyars put on a tafya, a cap, and a throat cap. It was customary to keep a handkerchief in a hat, which, while visiting, was held in hands.

In winter cold, hands were warmed with fur mittens, which were covered with plain leather, morocco, cloth, satin, velvet. "Cold" mittens were knitted from wool or silk. The wrists of elegant mittens were embroidered with silk, gold, and trimmed with pearls and precious stones.

As an adornment, noble and wealthy people wore an earring in their ear, and a silver or gold chain with a cross around their neck, and rings with diamonds, yachts, emeralds on their fingers; on some rings personal seals were made.

Only nobles and military people were allowed to carry weapons with them; townspeople and peasants were forbidden. According to custom, all men, regardless of their social status, left the house with a staff in their hands.

Some women's clothes were similar to men's. Women wore a long shirt in white or red, with long sleeves, embroidered and decorated with wrists. Over the shirt they put on a letnik - light clothing that reached to the heels with long and very wide sleeves (“caps”), which were decorated with embroideries and pearls. Letniki were sewn from damask, satin, obyari, taffeta of different colors, but worm-like ones were especially valued; a slit was made in front, which was fastened up to the very neck.

A neck necklace in the form of a braid, usually black, embroidered with gold and pearls, was fastened to the collar of the letnik.

The outerwear for women was a long cloth fur coat, which had a long row of buttons from top to bottom - pewter, silver or gold. Under the long sleeves, slits were made under the armpits for the arms, a wide round fur collar was fastened around the neck, covering the chest and shoulders. The hem and armholes were decorated with embroidered braid. A long sundress with sleeves or without sleeves, with armholes, was widespread; the front slit was fastened from top to bottom with buttons. A body warmer was worn on a sundress, in which the sleeves tapered to the wrist; These clothes were sewn from satin, taffeta, obyari, altabas (gold or silver fabric), bayberek (twisted silk). Warm padded jackets were lined with marten or sable fur.

Various furs were used for women's fur coats: marten, sable, fox, ermine and cheaper ones - squirrel, hare. Fur coats were covered with cloth or silk fabrics of different colors. In the 16th century, it was customary to sew women's fur coats in white, but in the 17th century they began to be covered with colored fabrics. The cut made in front, with stripes on the sides, was fastened with buttons and bordered with an embroidered pattern. The collar (necklace) lying around the neck was made of different fur than the fur coat; for example, with a marten coat - from a black-brown fox. The decorations on the sleeves could be removed and kept in the family as a hereditary value.

Noble women in solemn occasions put on their clothes a drag, that is, a sleeveless cloak of worm-colored, made of gold, silver-woven or silk fabric, richly decorated with pearls and precious stones.

On their heads, married women wore "hairs" in the form of a small hat, which for rich women was made of gold or silk fabric with decorations on it. To take off the hair and “to goof off” a woman, according to the concepts of the 16th-17th centuries, meant to inflict great dishonor on a woman. Over the hair, the head was covered with a white scarf (ubrus), the ends of which, decorated with pearls, were tied under the chin. When leaving the house, married women put on a “kiku”, which surrounded the head in the form of a wide ribbon, the ends of which were connected at the back of the head; the top was covered with colored cloth; the front part - the ochelie - was richly decorated with pearls and precious stones; the headdress could be separated or attached to another headdress, depending on the need. In front of the kick, pearl strands (lower) that fell to the shoulders were hung, four or six on each side. When leaving the house, women put on a hat with a brim and with falling red cords or a black velvet hat with a fur trim over the ubrus.

The kokoshnik served as a headdress for both women and girls. It looked like a fan or a fan attached to a volosnik. The headpiece of the kokoshnik was embroidered with gold, pearls or multi-colored silk and beads.

The girls wore crowns on their heads, to which pearl or beaded pendants (cassocks) with precious stones were attached. The girlish crown always left her hair open, which was a symbol of girlhood. By winter, girls from wealthy families were sewn tall sable or beaver hats (“columns”) with a silk top, from under which loose hair or a braid with red ribbons woven into it descended onto their backs. Girls from poor families wore bandages that tapered at the back and fell down the back with long ends.

Women and girls of all strata of the population adorned themselves with earrings, which were varied: copper, silver, gold, with yachts, emeralds, "sparks" (small pebbles). Solid gemstone earrings were rare. Bracelets with pearls and stones served as decoration for the hands, and on the fingers - rings and rings, gold and silver, with small pearls.

A rich neck decoration for women and girls was a monisto, consisting of precious stones, gold and silver plaques, pearls, garnets; in “the old days, a row of small crosses was hung from the monist.

Moscow women loved jewelry and were famous for their pleasant appearance, but in order to be considered beautiful, according to the Moscow people of the 16th-17th centuries, one had to be a portly, magnificent woman, rouged and made up. The harmony of a thin camp, the grace of a young girl in the eyes of the then beauty lovers had little value.

According to the description of Olearius, Russian women were of medium height, slender build, and had a gentle face; city dwellers all blushed, eyebrows and eyelashes were tinted with black or brown paint. This custom was so rooted that when the wife of the Moscow grandee prince, Ivan Borisovich Cherkasov, a beautiful woman, did not want to blush, the wives of other boyars persuaded her not to neglect the custom of her native land, not to disgrace other women and ensured that this naturally beautiful woman was forced to give in and apply blush.

Although, compared with rich noble people, the clothes of the "black" townspeople and peasants were simpler and less elegant, nevertheless, in this environment there were rich outfits that accumulated from generation to generation. Clothes were usually made at home. And the very cut of ancient clothes - without a waist, in the form of a dressing gown - made it suitable for many.

The clothes of Ancient Rus' reflected the customs and worldview of its inhabitants, their attitude to the surrounding nature and the whole world. She had her own special style, although she partially borrowed certain elements from other peoples.

What was the clothes in ancient Rus'

Features of clothing in Rus':

1. Clothing for the inhabitants of Ancient Rus' was important. She not only protected the body from heat and cold, but also had to protect a person from evil spirits, protect him. For amulets, people wore various metal jewelry and made embroidery on clothes.

2. Ordinary people and princes wore almost the same clothes in their structure. The main difference was in the materials from which it was sewn. So, for example, for the peasants, they were mainly content with linen clothes, while the princes could afford to use expensive fabrics from overseas countries.

3. Children in Rus' wore floor-length shirts. Basically, they were sewn from the old things of the parents, so that the parental strength would protect the children. (At that time, people believed that when a person wears clothes, they can absorb his strength and spirit). For boys, they made clothes from their father's cast-offs, and for girls - from their mother's.

Women's clothing of Ancient Rus'

One of the components of women's clothing in Ancient Rus' was a shirt or shirt. The shirt provided underwear, it was made of coarse and thick fabric. The shirt was sewn from light and thin materials, it was mostly only for rich women. Girls in Rus' also wore linen clothes called "zapona", it looked like a piece of fabric bent in half with a cutout for the head.

A zapon was worn over a shirt, necessarily belted. Women also wore such elegant outerwear as the "top". It was usually made of expensive fabric, embroidered and looked like a tunic. Depending on the design options, the pommel was with sleeves of different lengths or without them, in addition, it was not girdled.

In winter, the inhabitants of Ancient Rus' wore casings with fur, and in the summer they wore a shirt just like that. For the holidays, they put on special shirts called long-sleeves. In addition, women in Rus' wrapped a woolen cloth around their hips, intercepting it with a belt at the waist. This piece of clothing was called "poneva" and most of all was in a cage. It is worth noting that different tribes had their own colors of poneva.

For example, for the Vyatichi tribes, a blue cell was characteristic, and for the Radimichi, a red one. Poneva was very common in Ancient Rus'. Later in Rus', clothes called "Sayan" or "feryaz" also appeared, which consisted of two panels intercepted by straps on the shoulders. Look at the pictures with the clothes of Ancient Rus' to see how these forms of clothing were combined.

Men's clothing of Ancient Rus'

Men's clothing of Ancient Rus' consisted of a shirt, belt and pants. Men wore shirts almost to the knee, they had to be belted. The shirt was also intercepted with a ribbon around the sleeve. In addition, a strong half of the inhabitants of Rus' wore an outer shirt, which was called the "top" or "red shirt".

The pants were not worn very wide, they did not have fasteners on top, so they were simply tied up with a rope. In the clothes of the warriors of Ancient Rus', leather belts with metal plaques were used. The princes wore things made from fabrics brought from other countries. The hems of the princely outfits were sheathed with a gold border with patterns. The lower part of the sleeves was also covered with golden "handrails". Collars were made of golden satin fabric.

In addition, rich people wore belts that were decorated with plaques of gold and silver, as well as precious stones. Boots were made of morocco of different colors, often embroidered with gold thread. Noble people wore a "hood" - a high hat with a top made of colored velvet and with a sable edge. In the cold season, the nobility wore clothes made of expensive furs, as well as warm woolen suites.

Folk costume - a traditional set of clothing, characteristic of a particular area. It differs in the features of the cut, compositional and plastic solution, texture and color of the fabric, the nature of the decor (motives and technique for making the ornament), as well as the composition of the costume and the way of wearing its various parts.

The creative source of the modern fashion designer is the folk costume. Ways to use a suit as a source of innovation in clothing design can be very different. What is the attractive power of the folk costume? Aesthetics, as well as functionality, expediency, rationality of cut and execution, and all this applies to any folk costume of any nationality. In the second half of the 20th century, folk costume, its cut, ornament, and color combinations were widely used by fashion designers when designing clothes. Even folklore, ethnic styles appear. Folk costume becomes the object of close study.

Folk costume is one of the oldest and most popular types of folk arts and crafts, has a wealth of forms of expression, breadth and depth of cultural and artistic ties. The costume is a holistic artistic ensemble of harmoniously coordinated items of clothing, jewelry and accessories, shoes, headgear, hairstyles and makeup. The art of traditional costume organically combines various types of decorative art and uses a variety of materials.

The main fabrics used for folk peasant clothing were homespun canvas and wool of simple linen weave, and from the middle of the 19th century. - factory-made silk, satin, brocade with an ornament of lush flower garlands and bouquets, calico, chintz, satin, colored cashmere.

The shirt is part of the Russian traditional costume. Women's shirts were sewn from straight panels of straight or linen home-made fabric. In the cut of many shirts, poliks were used - inserts that expand the upper part. The shape of the sleeves was different - straight or tapering to the wrist, loose or pleated, with or without gussets, they were assembled under a narrow lining or under a wide cuff decorated with lace. In wedding or festive clothes there were shirts - long sleeves with sleeves up to two meters long, with wedges, without gathers. When worn, such a sleeve was assembled in horizontal folds or had special slots - windows for threading hands. Shirts were embroidered with linen, silk, wool or gold threads. The pattern was located on the collar, shoulders, sleeves and hem.

Kosovorotka

Russian traditional men's shirt with a clasp on the chest, shifted to the left, less often to the right. Images of a shirt with such a clasp are attributed to the 12th century. In the 1880s it was the kosovorotka that was the basis of the new military uniform in the Russian army, becoming the prototype of the future tunic.

A kosovorotka is a primordially Russian men's shirt with a clasp, which was located asymmetrically: on the side (shirt with a slanting collar), and not in the middle of the front. The collar is a tiny stand. Shirt motifs can be found not only in men's, but also in women's fashion. Linen blouses were traditionally widely used in Russia in civilian life, being a synonym for Russian men's shirts, and also as underwear for soldiers. The kosovorotka among the ancient Slavs was the basis of any costume. It was made from homespun cloth. Everywhere there were shirts with red weaving in a cage and stripes. They were working and festive, everything depended on the richness of the decoration.

Kosovorotki were worn loose, not tucked into trousers. They were girded with a silk corded belt or a woven belt made of wool. The belt could have tassels at the ends. The belt tie was located on the left side.

Kosovorotki were sewn from linen, silk, satin. Sometimes they embroidered on the sleeves, hem, collar. In rooms (in a tavern, a shop, at home, etc.), blouses were worn with a vest. It should be noted that it was the kosovorotka that was the basis for the emergence in 1880 of such an element of the uniform of the Russian army as a gymnast.

Men's shirts

The blouses of the ancient peasants were a construction of two panels that covered the back and chest and were connected at the shoulders with 4-corner cuts of fabric. All classes wore shirts of the same cut. The difference was only in the quality of the fabric.

Women's shirts

Unlike a man's kosovorotka, a women's shirt could reach the hem of a sundress and was called "stan". There was even a style of a women's shirt with gathered sleeves especially for feeding babies. In Siberia, for example, a women's shirt was called "sleeves", because only sleeves were visible from under a sundress. Women's shirts carried a different meaning and were called everyday, festive, mowing, magic, wedding and funeral. Women's shirts were sewn from homespun fabric: linen, canvas, wool, hemp, hemp. A deep meaning was laid in the decoration elements of a women's shirt. Various symbols, horses, birds, the Tree of Life, lankas, plant patterns corresponded to various pagan deities. Red shirts were amulets against evil spirits and misfortunes.

Children's shirts

The first diaper for a newborn boy was the father's shirt, the girl in the mother's shirt. They tried to sew children's shirts from the fabric of a worn shirt of a father or mother. It was believed that the strength of the parents would protect the baby from damage and the evil eye. For boys and girls, the shirt looked the same in a heel-length linen blouse. Mothers always decorated their children's shirt with embroidery. All patterns had protective meanings. As soon as the children moved into a new stage, they were entitled to the first shirt from a new fabric. At the age of three, the first shirt from novelty. At the age of 12 in poneva for girls and trousers for boys.

Kartuz

Our country has a very rich history of dresses. If you go to the museum of local lore, you will certainly see how diverse clothing was in Rus'. The costumes were necessarily bright and in this way they characterized our Russian soul. There was in the history of Russian fashion such a headdress as a cap. Kartuz - a man's headdress with a visor. It was created for the summer from factory-made cloth, tights, plush, velvet, lined. Kartuz has been known since the 19th century. In the middle of the 19th century, it was common in the villages and cities of the northern provinces of European Russia, but it was especially widespread in the provinces of Central Russia. The Russians in Siberia also knew about him. It appeared in Western Siberia in the first half of the 19th century. Numerous regulatory decrees were adopted that determined the clothing of not only the military, but also civilian officials. The shape, color, and decoration of the headgear were discussed in detail. The cap was close in shape to a cap, but did not have distinctive signs indicating belonging to a particular department.

They were sewn with a flat round top on a high (about 5 - 8 cm) standing band with a wide solid visor above the forehead. Visors could be semicircular, inclined or long straight, they were covered with leather or the fabric from which the entire headdress was made. Festive caps of young people were decorated over the visor with ribbons, laces with buttons, beaded pendants, artificial and natural flowers. There was a special, capped, fabric, but it was used not for hats, but for fuses in artillery shells. The cap was worn by village landowners, managers and retired officials.

Sundress

A sundress is the main element of the Russian women's traditional costume. It has been known among peasants since the 14th century. In the most common version of the cut, a wide panel of fabric was gathered in small folds - a clothespin under a narrow corsage on the straps. Differences in cut, used woven fabrics and their color in different regions of Russia are very large.

Sarafan - as a category of Russian women's clothing, is familiar to contemporaries not only in Russia. The first mention of him in the Nikon Chronicle dates back to 1376. Forms and styles of making sundresses have changed from century to century, from north to south, from a peasant woman to a noblewoman. The fashion for them never passed, it only left its imprints in the decor, ways of wearing. Sundress - a long dress with straps worn over a shirt or on a naked body. A sundress has long been considered a Russian women's costume. However, the historical fact is that even in the 14th century voivodes and the great Moscow princes wore it. It became the final accessory of the women's wardrobe only in the 17th century.

The Russian sarafan was worn both as everyday and as festive clothes (they wore it for folk festivals, church holidays, wedding celebrations). A marriageable girl had to have up to 10 sundresses of different colors in her dowry. Representatives of the wealthy classes and the nobility sewed rich sundresses from expensive overseas fabrics (velvet, silk, etc.) brought from Persia, Turkey, and Italy. It was decorated with embroidery, braid and lace. Such a sundress emphasized the social position of the hostess.

Russian sarafans consisted of many elements, so they were very heavy, especially festive ones. Wedged sarafans were sewn from "hair" - the wool of a sheep woven black with a decoction of alder and oak. Festive and "everyday" sundresses differed. Holidays for every day were decorated along the hem with a "chitan" ("gaitan", "gaytanchik") - a thin 1 cm braid of homemade red wool. The top was decorated with a strip of velvet. However, not only woolen sundresses were worn every day. Like light, home-made clothing, household "Sayan" is a straight sarafan made of satin, gathered in a small fold along the back and sides. Young people wore "red" or "purple" Saiyans, and the elderly - blue and black.

In Russian villages, the sarafan played a special role; it could be used to find out about the social status of a woman (whether she was married, whether she had children) and about her mood (there were costumes for the holiday and for the torment). Later, with the coming to power of Peter I, the face of the wealthy Russian class changed. The traditional Russian sarafan was now considered the clothing of commoners and merchants' daughters. The return of the sundress to the wardrobe of Russian ladies occurred with the beginning of the reign of Catherine II. The German-born princess revived interest in Russian antiquity and introduced into court fashion a richly decorated dress, which in its style vaguely resembled the well-known Russian outfit.

Kokoshnik

The name "kokoshnik" comes from the ancient Slavic "kokosh", meaning chicken and rooster. A characteristic feature of the kokoshnik is a comb, the shape of which was different in different provinces. Kokoshniks were made on a solid base, decorated on top with brocade, braid, beads, beads, pearls, and for the richest - with precious stones. Kokoshnik - an old Russian headdress in the form of a fan or a rounded shield around the head. Kichka and magpie were worn only by married women, and the kokoshnik was worn by unmarried women as well.

Only a married woman could wear a kokoshnik; girls had their own headdress - forty. They called it that because the scarf had a tail and two wings. Probably, it was the magpie that became the prototype of today's bandana. A characteristic feature of the kokoshnik is a comb, the shape of which was different in different provinces. So, for example, in the Pskov, Kostroma, Nizhny Novgorod, Saratov and Vladimir lands, kokoshniks resembled an arrowhead in shape. In the Simbirsk province, women wore kokoshniks with a crescent. In other places, headdresses similar to kokoshniks were called "heel", "tilt", "golden-domed", "horn", "kokui", or, for example, "magpie".

Kokoshniks were considered a great family treasure. The peasants carefully kept the kokoshniks, passed them on by inheritance, they were often used by several generations and were an indispensable part of the dowry of a wealthy bride. Kokoshniks were usually made by professional craftswomen, sold in village shops, city shops, at fairs, or made to order. The forms of kokoshniks are unusually peculiar and original.

The kokoshnik was not only a decoration for a woman, but also her amulet. It was embroidered with various ornamental amulets and symbols of marital fidelity and fertility. The ornament of the headdress of the kokoshnik necessarily consisted of three parts. A lace - a metal ribbon - outlines it along the edges, and inside each part an ornament - a charm - is embroidered with a "gimp" (twisted wire). In the center is a stylized "frog" - a sign of fertility, on the sides - S-shaped figures of swans - symbols of marital fidelity. The back of the kokoshnik was especially richly embroidered: a stylized bush symbolized the tree of life, each branch of which is a new generation; often a pair of birds was located above the branches, a symbol of the connection between earth and sky and a mating couple, in the paws of birds - seeds and fruits.

The kokoshnik was considered a festive and even a wedding headdress. In the Simbirsk province, it was first worn on the wedding day, and then worn on major holidays until the birth of the first child. Kokoshniks were made in cities, in large villages and monasteries by special craftswomen-kokoshniks. They embroidered expensive fabric with gold, silver and pearls, and then stretched it on a solid (birch bark, later cardboard) base. The kokoshnik had a cloth bottom. The lower edge of the kokoshnik was often sheathed with bottoms - a net of pearls, and on the sides, above the temples, Ryasna was fastened - strings of pearl beads falling low on the shoulders. Later kokoshniks in the form of a cap are ornamented simply with a beautiful ornament of the wedding symbols "grapes and roses", which appeared in embroidery under the influence of urban fashion, and personified in the popular mind "sweet berry and scarlet flower".

Clothes were of great value, they did not lose them, they did not throw them away, but they took great care of them, repeatedly altering them and wearing them out until they were completely dilapidated.

The festive attire of the poor passed from parents to children. The nobility strove to ensure that her costume was different from the clothes of commoners.

The life of an ordinary person was not easy. Hard work from dawn to dusk in the field, caring for the harvest, domestic animals. But when the long-awaited holiday came, people seemed to transform, put on the best, most beautiful clothes. Clothing could tell a lot about the marital status, the age of its owner. So in the southern regions of our country, all children under 12 years old wore the same long shirts.

Festive clothes were kept in chests.

In the ornaments on clothes, you can see the image of the sun, stars, the Tree of Life with birds on the branches, flowers, figures of people and animals. Such a symbolic ornament connected a person with the surrounding nature, with the wonderful world of legends and myths.

Russian folk clothes have a long history. Its general character, which has developed in the life of many generations, corresponds to the external appearance, lifestyle, geographical location and nature of the work of the people. Starting from the 18th century, the northern part of Russia turned out to be aloof from developing centers and therefore the traditional features of folk life and clothing were much more fully preserved here, while to the south (Ryazan, Orel, Kursk, Kaluga) Russian folk costume received a noticeable development.

Diverse in color and texture, but perfectly matched to each other, the details created an outfit that, as it were, complemented the harsh nature of the region, colored it with bright colors. All costumes differed from each other, but at the same time they had common features:

Straight, extended to the bottom silhouette of the product and sleeves;
- the predominance of symmetrical compositions with the rhythm of rounded lines in details, decoration;
- the use of decorative patterned fabrics with the effect of gold and silver, embroidery, fabric of a different color, fur.

Old Russian clothing had its own characteristics: some types of clothing had sleeves longer than arms. They were usually collected in small folds. And if you "lower your sleeves", then it was almost impossible to work.

Therefore, they say about bad work that it was done "sloppy". Such dresses were worn by very rich people. Those who were poorer wore short dresses, better adapted to walking and working.

As always, the people remained true to their old clothes, and the upper classes exchanged or mixed their clothes with the clothes of their winners.

In the 16th century, men began to wear a shirt with a narrow collar, long trousers, wide at the top, gathered on a braid. The caftan is narrow, like a cover, reaching to the knees and equipped with sleeves. Under Peter I, pants made of silk, canvas or cloth were in use, which were tucked into boots. Long caftan Peter I forced to shorten. To those who did not want to do this voluntarily, according to the royal decree, the soldiers cut off the floors. In the 16-17 centuries, noble women wore a shirt, the sleeves of which were wide and baggy at the top, tapering down, then the caftan, which was made wider than the man's, was fastened along the entire length with the help of silver buttons. This caftan was girded with a shawl.

The soul of the people and their idea of beauty were reflected in Russian folk clothes.

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Russian national costume

In many countries today there is a wonderful tradition: to wear a national costume not only for any thematic holiday, but also during pleasant leisure, for example, with friends, after work. I observed this tradition in Sweden, America, Germany. It looks very joyful, bright, colorful and positive. There is something magical, bewitching, stable in folk costumes. It is very important for any person to know his origins, roots - belonging to centuries-old traditions gives him a sense of security and significance.

The formation of any national costume, its cut, ornament and features, has always been influenced by such factors as climate, geographical location, economic structure and the main occupations of the people. National clothes emphasized age and family differences.

In Rus', the national costume has always had features depending on the region and was divided into everyday and festive. By national dress it was possible to understand where a person comes from, to which social class he belongs. The Russian costume and its decoration contained symbolic information about the whole family, about its occupations, customs and family events.

Our people have long been considered an agricultural people, and this, of course, influenced the features of the national costume: its ornament, cut, details.

Scientists believe that the Russian national costume began to take shape around the 12th century. It was worn by peasants, boyars, and tsars until the 18th century, until, by decree of Peter I, a forced change of costume to a European one took place. Peter I believed that cultural and trade communication with Europe was very important for Russia, and the Russian costume was not very suitable for this. In addition, it was not very convenient for work. Perhaps it was a political step, or maybe just a matter of taste of Peter I himself, but one way or another, since then, the Russian national costume has been preserved for the most part in the peasant layer. By decree of Peter I, it was forbidden to produce and sell Russian clothes, fines and even deprivation of property were provided for this. Only peasants were allowed to wear the national costume.

Perhaps, because of Peter's innovations, the Russian people have lost touch with the national costume, but the memory of our ancestors in many of us, one way or another, longs for a return to the origins and folk flavor. Let's remember together how the Russian folk costume was different. The main difference between the national costume was the multi-composition / layering, richness of decoration and a simple, straight or slightly flared silhouette. Waist was not emphasized. The colors were mostly bright and joyful.

With all the abundance of different clothes, in Rus' there were several basic sets of Russian women's costume. This is a word of mouth kit (Northern Russian) and a pony kit (South Russian, more ancient). At the same time, the shirt has always been the basis of women's attire. As a rule, shirts were made of linen or cotton, and more expensive ones were made of silk.
The hem, sleeves and collar of the shirts were decorated with embroidery, braid, buttons, sequins, appliqués and various patterned inserts. Sometimes a dense ornament adorned the entire breast part of the shirt. Patterns, ornaments, details and colors in different provinces were special. For example, the shirts of the Voronezh province, as a rule, were decorated with black embroidery, which added rigor and sophistication to the outfit. But in the shirts of the central and northern provinces, one can mainly note embroidery with gold threads - silk or cotton. In the northern and central provinces, red, blue and black colors prevailed, as well as double-sided sewing. South Russian shirts (for example, Tula and Kursk provinces) were characterized by various patterns and dense red embroidery. It is interesting that on the shirts of girls (mainly in the Tver, Arkhangelsk and Vologda provinces), who were already betrothed, there were various geometric patterns: rhombuses, circles, crosses. Among the ancient Slavs, such patterns carried a semantic load. Sarafan (from the Iranian word serārā- the meaning of this word is approximately “dressed from head to toe”) was the main clothing of the northern Russian regions. Sundresses were also of several types: deaf, swing, straight. Swing sundresses, popular in the regions of the Urals, had a trapezoidal silhouette, and differed in that their front was sewn from two panels of fabric, and not one (as in a deaf sundress). Cloths of fabric were connected with beautiful buttons or fasteners.
A straight (round) sundress with straps was easier to manufacture. He appeared a little later. The most popular colors and shades for sundresses were dark blue, green, red, blue, dark cherry. Festive and wedding sundresses were sewn mainly from brocade or silk, and everyday from coarse cloth or chintz. The choice of fabric depended on family wealth. Over the sarafan, a short shower jacket was worn, which was festive clothing for the peasants, and everyday for the nobility. The shower warmer was sewn from expensive, dense fabrics: velvet, brocade.
The more ancient, South Russian national costume was distinguished by the fact that it consisted of a long canvas shirt and poneva. Poneva (loinclothes, such as a skirt) was an obligatory accessory for a married woman's costume. It consisted of three panels, was deaf or swinging; as a rule, its length depended on the length of the women's shirt. The hem of the poneva was decorated with patterns and embroidery. The poneva itself was made, as a rule, from a fabric in a cage, semi-woolen.
Poneva was dressed on a shirt, and wrapped around her hips, and a woolen cord (gashnik) held her at the waist. An apron was often worn in front. In Rus', for girls who had reached the age of majority, there was a ritual of dressing a poneva, which said that the girl could already be betrothed. In different regions, ponevs were decorated in different ways. They also differed in color scheme. For example, in the Voronezh province, ponevs were richly decorated with orange embroidery and sequins.
And in the Ryazan and Kaluga provinces, ponevs were decorated with complex woven patterns. In the Tula province, there was mainly a red poneva, and a black checkered poneva was found in the Kaluga, Ryazan and Voronezh provinces.

Ponyovs were decorated with additional details, depending on family income: fringe, tassels, beads, sequins, metallic lace. The younger the woman was, the brighter and richer her pony was decorated.

In addition to sarafans and ponyas, in the Russian national costume there were an andarak skirt and a kubelok dress. It should be noted that these outfits were not used everywhere, but only in certain regions and villages. For example, a kubelok dress was the distinctive clothing of the Cossacks. It was worn by Don Cossacks and Cossacks of the North Caucasus. It was a dress that was worn over a shirt with wide sleeves. Bloomers were often worn under this dress. The suit with the andarak skirt was also not a typical Russian suit. It has become widespread in some villages of the Kursk, Oryol, Smolensk, Vologda and Ryazan provinces.

In the Russian folk costume, there was a clear division into everyday and festive attire.

Everyday costume was as simple as possible, it consisted of the most necessary elements. For comparison, a festive women's costume of a married woman could include about 20 items, and everyday only 7. Casual clothes were usually sewn from cheaper fabrics than festive ones.

Work clothes were similar to everyday clothes, but there were also special clothes, just for work. Such clothes were sewn from more durable fabrics. An interesting fact is that the working shirt for harvesting (harvesting) was richly decorated and was equated to a festive one.

There was also the so-called ceremonial clothing, which was worn for weddings, funerals, and church.

A woman in a Kostroma festive costume (Galich)

Both unmarried girls and married women adorned themselves with beads, necklaces, and earrings. It was customary to decorate even buttons in a special way: engraving, filigree, fabric.

Another distinctive feature of the Russian folk costume was the variety of headdresses. The headdress completed the entire ensemble, making it whole.

In Rus', hats for unmarried girls and married women were different. Girls' headdresses left part of their hair open and were quite simple. These were ribbons, bandages, hoops, openwork crowns, scarves folded in a bundle.
And married women had to cover their hair completely under a headdress. Kika was a women's elegant headdress of married women. According to the old Russian custom, a scarf (ubrus) was put on over the kiki. Kiku was worn mainly in the southern regions (Ryazan, Tula, Oryol, Kaluga provinces). Kika completely covered her hair; in front of her was a hard part in the shape of a shoulder blade or horns.
An elegant magpie made of embroidered fabric was worn over the kiki, and behind the kiki was a beaded nape. At the beginning of the 20th century, this complex headdress was replaced by a scarf or warrior.
The kokoshnik was the ceremonial headdress of a married woman. Married women wore kiku and kokoshnik when they left the house, and at home, as a rule, they wore a povoinik (cap) and a scarf.

In terms of social differences, noble women mostly wore dresses made of expensive fabrics over silk tunics and shirts. The richer a woman was, the more layers of clothing she wore. Short clothing was equally indecent for all social strata. It was not easy for Russian women to change costumes, from restrained, non-fitted clothes to low-cut dresses and tight waists.

Nina Meilun
"Russian folk costume". Cognitive conversation with children of senior preschool age

group teacher number 12

Meilun Nina Vikentievna

MBDOU CRR No. 25 "BEES", Smolensk, 2014

Target:

To give an idea of the folk costume as an element of the traditional culture of the Russian people (On the history of the creation and purpose of individual costume units, methods of cutting, ornament and decoration);

Develop aesthetic perception;

Raise patriotic feelings and interest in the history of Russia.

Conversation structure:

The teacher's story on the topic;

Examining illustrations;

Didactic game "Collect a suit";

Quiz "Russian costume".

The teacher's story on the topic:

Folk costume

A traditional set of clothes, characteristic of a certain area. It differs in the features of the cut, compositional and plastic solution, texture and color of the fabric, the nature of the decor (motives and technique for making the ornament, as well as the composition of the costume and the way of wearing its various parts.

Shirt

Part of Russian traditional costume.

In the cut of many shirts, poliks were used - inserts that expand the upper part. The shape of the sleeves was different - straight or tapering to the wrist, loose or pleated, with or without gussets, they were assembled under a narrow lining or under a wide cuff decorated with lace. Shirts were embroidered with linen, silk, wool or gold threads. The pattern was located on the collar, shoulders, sleeves and hem.

Kosovorotka

An original Russian men's shirt with a clasp, which was located asymmetrically: on the side (a shirt with an oblique collar, and not in the middle of the front. The collar is a tiny stand.

Kosovorotki were worn loose, not tucked into trousers. They were girded with a silk corded belt or a woven belt made of wool.

Kosovorotki were sewn from linen, silk, satin. Sometimes they embroidered on the sleeves, hem, collar.

Men's shirts:

Women's shirts:

Unlike a man's kosovorotka, a women's shirt could reach the hem of a sundress and was called "stan". Women's shirts carried a different meaning and were called everyday, festive, mowing, magic, wedding and funeral. Women's shirts were sewn from homespun fabric: linen, canvas, wool, hemp, hemp. A deep meaning was laid in the decoration elements of a women's shirt. Various symbols, horses, birds, the Tree of Life, plant patterns corresponded to various pagan deities. Red shirts were amulets against evil spirits and misfortunes.

Children's shirts:

The father's shirt served as the first diaper for a newborn boy, and the mother's shirt for a girl. They tried to sew children's shirts from the fabric of a worn shirt of a father or mother. It was believed that the strength of the parents would protect the baby from damage and the evil eye. For boys and girls, the shirt looked the same: a linen blouse that was toe-length. Mothers always decorated their children's shirt with embroidery. All patterns had protective meanings. As soon as the children moved into a new stage, they were entitled to the first shirt from a new fabric. At the age of three, the first shirt from novelty. At the age of 12 in poneva for girls and trousers for boys.

Hats:

There was in the history of Russian fashion such a headdress as a cap. Kartuz - a man's headdress with a visor. It was created for the summer from factory-made cloth, tights, plush, velvet, lined.

The cap was close in shape to a cap, but did not have distinctive signs indicating belonging to a particular department.

Sundress:

Sarafan - as a category of Russian women's clothing, is familiar to contemporaries not only in Russia. The fashion for them never passed. Sundress - a long dress with straps worn over a shirt or on a naked body. A sundress has long been considered a Russian women's costume.

The Russian sarafan was worn both as everyday and as festive clothing. A marriageable girl had to have up to 10 sundresses of different colors in her dowry. Representatives of the wealthy classes and the nobility sewed rich sundresses from expensive overseas fabrics (velvet, silk, etc., brought from Persia, Turkey, Italy. It was decorated with embroidery, braid and lace. Such a sundress emphasized the social status of the hostess.

reign of Catherine II.

Kokoshnik:

The magpie was named so because the scarf had, as it were, a tail and two wings. Probably, it was the magpie that became the prototype of today's bandana.

Kokoshniks were considered a great family treasure. Peasants carefully kept kokoshniks, passed them by inheritance

The kokoshnik was considered a festive and even a wedding headdress.

They embroidered expensive fabric with gold, silver and pearls, and then stretched it on a solid (birch bark, later cardboard) base. The kokoshnik had a cloth bottom. The lower edge of the kokoshnik was often sheathed with bottoms - a net of pearls, and on the sides, above the temples, Ryasna was fastened - strings of pearl beads falling low on the shoulders.

The festive attire of the poor passed from parents to children. The nobility strove to ensure that her costume was different from the clothes of commoners.

Festive clothes were kept in chests.

Russian folk clothes have a long history.

Straight, extended to the bottom silhouette of the product and sleeves;

The predominance of symmetrical compositions with the rhythm of rounded lines in details, decoration;

The use of decorative patterned fabrics with the effect of gold and silver, embroidery trim, fabric of a different color, fur

Examination of illustrations of the elements of the Russian folk costume:

South Russian ponevny complex;

northern Russian sarafan complex;

(shirts; ponevs; hats; shoes; outerwear).

Didactic game "Collect a suit":

Purpose: to teach children to recognize the elements of the Russian folk costume on the tables and cards of the game;

Develop observation, resourcefulness; aesthetic perception; interest in Russian history;

Enrich the dictionary: sundress, poneva, kokoshnik, magpie, bast shoes, boots, onuchi, dushegreya, epanechka, etc. others

Quiz "Russian costume":

What did the female costume in Rus' consist of? (dress, shirt, kokoshnik or magpie, ribbon, bast shoes or boots);

What did men wear in Rus'? (shirt, ports, cap, bast shoes or boots);

What do you wear over your shirt in cold weather? (Caftan, vest, short fur coat or fur coat);

What are baby diapers made from? (From the clothes of the parents, because it was believed that it would protect from evil spirits);

At what age was a child sewed a shirt from a new canvas? (3 years);

What patterns were used to decorate clothes in Rus' (vegetative, geometric, symbols of the sun, protecting);

Why were shirts sewn - long sleeves? (For holiday);

Was it possible to tell a rich man from a poor man by his clothes? (Only for the quality of the fabric and decorations).

Literature:

F. M. Parmon Russian folk costume as an artistic and constructive source of creativity. Moscow Lenprombytizdat 1994.