Methods for processing the bottom of products by seamstress. Processing the bottom of the product with a hem seam with a closed cut. Hemming on the rounded areas of the product

The bottom of the products is processed after joining and finishing the side sections. Depending on the model and properties of the materials used, the bottom of the products is processed with any edge seam or belt. Cuts (slots) located along the bottom edge are processed before or during the finishing of the bottom of the product.

Processing begins with the alignment of the bottom line. To do this, the product turned inside out is bent in the middle of the front and back, laid out on the table and the side and relief seams, tucks on the right and left sides of the product are combined. Having specified the Length, they outline the lines of the bottom and the hem of the bottom along the auxiliary pattern. Trim excess material along the bottom line. In products made of thick materials, excess allowances for side and embossed seams are cut out in the area of the bottom hem allowance (Fig. 2.32, A).

Depending on the model, the cuts made at the bottom of the part are treated with an undercut, a piping seam using a braid or an oblique inlay with two closed cuts, set-in or tuning strips in the same way as non-through cuts of the fastener (see subsection 2.3.1 and Fig. 2.16 ). Wedges are inserted into such cuts (Fig. 2.32, b). To do this, the cut line is first turned with a turning (Fig. 2.32, V, line 1) the same as a section of a sleeve, one-piece cut with a gusset (see subsection 2.6.3 and fig. 2.30). Then a wedge is inserted into the turned edges of the incision (see Fig. 2.32. V, line 2). After that, the slices of the wedge and the facing are overcast (line 3).

The type of processing of the incision coinciding with the seam - lateral medium or relief, depends on the length of the incision. If the length of the cut is greater than the width of the bottom hem allowance, then the sides of the cut are the folds of the ironed seam allowances for connecting the main parts (Fig. 2.32, d, line 7). The cuts of these allowances are overcast or stitched (line 2), therefore, their processing is reduced to turning the corners of the cut. Before turning, the lower edge of the product is overcast or folded to the wrong side by 5 ... 7 mm and ironed. Then grind the lower corners of the cut (line 3). The turning line runs parallel to the bottom hem line and below it by 0.5 ... 3.5 mm, depending on the thickness of the material. The turning line can also be located at an angle to the bottom line (Fig. 2.32, e). Excess allowances in the corners of turning the cut are cut out, the cut is ironed. At the end of the cut, a backtack is placed (line 5). After that, the bottom hem allowance is hemmed or stitched (line 6).

If the length of the cut is less than the width of the bottom hem allowance (Fig. 2.32, e), then the cut is processed as follows. First, the main details are ground down, making a line skip in the area between the notches that determine the length of the cut (line 7). The stitching seam allowances are overcast (line 2) and ironed. The sides of the cut in the section of the bottom hem allowance are connected with an overcast seam (line 3). The corners of the cut are turned right side out. Overcast the bottom edge of the product (line 4) and adjust the bottom hem allowance (line 5). If the model does not provide a stitching line, the bottom hem allowance is fixed with a hidden stitch manually or on a special machine.

The slot located in the seam along the bottom of the product (Fig. 2.32, and), processed in the following way. Slots of the allowance are overcast (line 7) or sewn up. Allowances for slots are bent along the marked lines to the wrong side and ironed. The main parts are folded with the front sides inward, the cuts and control marks are combined and the upper ledge of the slots is ground down over the entire width of the allowance for the slots, and then, without interrupting the line, and the main parts along the seam in which the slot is located (line 2). The stitching seam allowances are overcast (line 3). After that, the length of the product is specified, the lower cut of the product is trimmed and overcast (line 4). The bottom hem allowance is turned to the wrong side and ironed. Turn the bottom corners of the slots with a horizontal or oblique stitch 5.

Rice. 2.32. Bottom processing

Then fix the hem allowance of the bottom of the product (line 6). The ledge of the slots is fixed on the front side of the product with a bartack line 7.

The bottom of the product, depending on the model and the materials used, is stitched with a hem seam with a closed, open swept or edged cut, as well as a hem seam with a braid (Fig. 2.32, h). In addition, a double-hem seam is used (Fig. 2.32, And), in which the cut of the bottom is folded to the wrong side by 7 ... 10 mm and stitched with a seam 1 mm wide (line 1 ). Seam allowances are cut to 2 ... 3 mm. The processed edge of the bottom is re-folded by 2 ... 3 mm and stitched a second time with a seam 1 mm wide (line 2). Folded seams are performed on a sewing machine with a special tool. Hem stitching is also done with blind stitches by hand or on a special machine.

The bottom of the product is edged with a braid or an oblique trim with two closed sections on one needle machine with a special device. It can be turned with an undercut or with an oblique trim with an overturned seam into a simple or complex frame. The inner edge of the facing or inlay is stitched or hemmed with a blind stitch by hand or on a special machine for a blind stitch. Facing or oblique trim can be located both on the front and on the wrong side of the product. The inlay can be adjusted to the bottom of the product on a two-needle machine with a cassette feed of the inlay and a device for folding the sections inward by 7 mm. The width of the finished inlay using such a machine is 15 or 31 mm. The bottom of the product can be overcast on a special overcasting machine.

When processing the bottom in products with a through fastener, the lower cut of the product is built up with an allowance for bending the bottom after processing the bead (Fig. 2.32, To). The lower cut of the product is built up before the bead is processed (Fig. 2.32, l) or after turning the lower edge of the bead under the bead (Fig. 2.32, m). The bottom of the product can be stitched simultaneously with the stitching of the selection after turning the lower corner of the fastener (Fig. 2.32, n).

The bottom of the product is treated with a stitched belt. The belt can be one-piece cut with a belt lining or turned, connected to the belt lining along the bottom edge. The belt lining is sewn to the lower edge of the product (Fig. 2.33, a, line 2). The belt is bent in the longitudinal direction with the front side inward, the upper cut is folded inside out and the ends of the belt are turned (line 3). The ends of the belt can be turned before the belt lining is sewn to the product. The belt is turned right side out, straightening the corners and seams. The upper edge of the belt is adjusted by bending the cut inward and closing the seam of attaching the belt lining (line 4). A finishing line can be laid along the bottom and ends of the belt, if it is provided by the model.

The belt is sewn to the product on a stitching overlock machine (Fig. 2.33, b). The ends of the belt are pre-turned (line 2). The pick-ups are bent along the side line and folded with the shelves with the front sides inward. The belt is inserted between the selection and the shelf, combining the sections of the finished belt and the lower sections of the product, and stitched on a stitching overlock machine (line 3). The pick-up and belt are turned to the front side and straightened. Waist stitching allowances can be tailored to the shelf.

Rice. 2.33. Processing the bottom of products with a stitched belt

The belt and its cut-off lining can be sewn on a two-needle two-cassette machine with a device for bending longitudinal sections inward by 7 mm (Fig. 2.33, V). A belt with a one-piece lining can also be sewn to the bottom of the product on a two-needle machine with a device for bending longitudinal sections (Fig. 2.33, G).

Bottom hemming is one of those operations that even those who do not like to sew have to deal with. Of course, sewing curtains or adjusting trousers for height can be entrusted to professionals, but almost every woman has had to deal with the problem of a ripped hem or the need to shorten a skirt that is too long. It is not difficult to do this at all, and perhaps, having mastered these simple operations, you will love to sew on your own.

How to align the bottom?

When it comes to sewing curtains, most often the hemming line is even. If we are talking about a skirt, especially a flared one, then the bottom line is aligned directly on the figure, while the belt and clasp should be well fitted.

To carry out this operation, they stand on a flat surface in the shoes with which this item is supposed to be worn. At the same time, the assistant, using a vertical wooden ruler, one end of which is placed on the floor, marks with chalk the corresponding level around the entire circumference of the hem.

However, this operation can be done independently, if a rope, thickly rubbed with chalk, is fixed at the desired height in the doorway (Fig. 1). To the marked line, it is necessary to add an allowance for the hem and seams, the width of which will depend on the method of processing the bottom.

How to independently mark the hem line of a skirt

Processing without hem

The easiest way, which does not require the use of special techniques, is to process the edge with an overlock. In some cases, such a line, for example, made with a contrasting thread, looks very attractive (Fig. 2).

Processing the cut with a zigzag seam or roller overlock, which forms a neat scar, is also well suited for thin fabrics (Fig. 3). After processing, protruding threads of the fabric must be cut off. An even more beautiful seam is obtained if the zigzag line is laid at some distance from the edge, and then carefully cut off the excess material.

A beautiful and neat filing is obtained by using an oblique inlay. For thin fabrics, it is attached in the form of a border. To do this, the oblique inlay (it is better to take a ready-made one) is folded in half and ironed, then the edge of the fabric is put inside it and stitched up (Fig. 4). The same method is well suited for processing internal seams of bulk material.

To hem dense material in this way, you need a hem of about 0.5 cm. The fabric and inlay are folded with the front sides and stitched along the bottom edge. Then the inlay is folded to the wrong side, ironed and stitched along its upper edge (Fig. 5). This hemming method is well suited when the length of the skirt is not enough for a standard hem.

Hemmed edge processing

The standard skirt hem width is 3-4 cm, for thin fabrics this value may be smaller. To make a neat hem line with a straight cut, it is convenient to use a sheet of paper with a horizontal line drawn at the right distance. Bend the edge of the hem to this distance and iron it with an iron - you will get a perfectly even line, moreover, the hem will not be imprinted on the front side (Fig. 6).

In flared lines, the fold is much more difficult to perform. To facilitate this operation, two parallel lines are laid along the bottom of the product (Fig. 7). Then the bottom line is slightly gathered, the fabric is folded inside out along the line of the top line, pinned up with pins and smoothed down.

The simplest method of finishing the folded edge, which even those who do not know how to sew, can quickly cope, is to use adhesive tape. It is put into the fold and treated with a hot iron (Fig. 8). For heavy textiles, it is recommended to insert two such tapes.

Professional dressmakers do not recommend using this method of fixing the hem, believing that it makes the fabric more rigid. In addition, the adhesive tape after washing, most likely, will have to be glued again. In the time of our grandmothers, traditional seams - blind (Fig. 9) and goat (Fig. 10) were used for products from suit and coat fabric, which are still made in expensive ateliers.

Beautiful execution of such a filing requires skill and considerable time. In the professional manufacture of clothing, this operation is most often performed with a hidden machine stitch. A simpler solution is to simply sew on a double-folded hem (fig. 11), which works well for sportswear.

With a narrow hem, such a stitch can be performed using a special hem foot. For thin fabrics, as well as for flared models, a more suitable option is to finish the edge with an overlock, and then stitch it 0.2 cm above the ironed fold line (Fig. 12). To prevent the top edge from hanging down, with a wide hem, you can make two parallel lines.

One of the most beautiful, albeit complex ways of filing thin materials is the so-called Moscow seam. Its width is about 3 mm, while there are 2 lines on the wrong side, and one on the front. They are performed in the following sequence (Fig. 13):

Leaving an allowance of 1 cm when cutting, make a hem of no more than 4 mm, iron and sew the fold as close to the edge as possible.
Carefully cut the fabric from edge to stitch, leaving more than 1 mm.
Once again, turn the hem to the wrong side so that the line is approximately in the middle, and iron it.
Sew the hem from the inside as close as possible to the first line. Experienced craftswomen make the first stitching with a contrasting thread, and then remove it to get one seam from the face and from the inside.

If you are now thinking about processing the bottom of the product, then you are just in the right place.

Welcome...

1. PROCESSING OF THE BOTTOM OF THE PRODUCT (CUT, STITCHING)

I would like to note the fact that the choice of processing method depends not only on the specific model, but in many respects this choice depends on the fabric.

Such processing of the bottom of the product, which I will talk about today, is typical for thick and medium-thick fabrics.

I used this processing method when I sewed a dress from a rather thick fabric, but there was not enough fabric to hem it.

Such processing of the bottom of the product is as follows:

1. With the side seams stitched to the cuts, we cut out the facings according to the shape of the bottom.
We cut the facings to the side line and plus an allowance of 0.7 cm.
We make a facing in width of 3-3.5 cm.
We mark the center (we put notches) so that later we don’t have to look for the center again.

2. We apply the facings to the bottom and pin them, combining the cuts.

We also pin the facings in the area of the cuts:

3. Lay a line over the pins, and take them out.
Then iron the seam allowance.

And this is what it looks like from the back side:

Having fixed the facing, we align it in width and overcast its inner cut.

5. Now you need to grind the corners from the inside.
To do this, pin the cuts with pins for further stitching.
IMPORTANT! We do not forget that we have an edge on the bottom, so we take this circumstance into account.

6. We grind the corners from the inside, turn it inside out and iron it.

7. We sew the cut and outline the line of stitching the bottom.

8. We sew the bottom.

9. The processing of the bottom of the product turned out to be very neat and beautiful. Denim style.

2. PROCESSING OF THE BOTTOM OF THE PRODUCT ON FABRICS OF MEDIUM THICKNESS

In this MK I will tell you about this method of processing the bottom, which I use for products made from fabrics of medium thickness.

These fabrics are neither thick nor thin, but, as elsewhere, there are some nuances here.

Rather, they do not refer to the very bottom, but to the processing of the bar and cuts.

But now to the point!

Processing the bottom of the product is as follows.

1. To begin with, we outline the bottom line on the front side.

2. Attention! The placket should not be stitched before the bottom is processed!

3. The corner where the bar is located is turned from the inside. And cut out the excess fabric.
This is necessary in order to avoid thickness in the corner.

4. There is also such a nuance when processing cuts.
Attention! We grind the corners of the cut along the bottom line. It is important!
Why are the corners turned down?
They are turned in this way, because in this way the turning seam will be at the bottom and it will not be noticeable.

5. This is how the bottom and the bar look like after turning the corner.

And this is what the lines look like from the front:

7. We lay a line along the cut without interrupting.
Where the stitching does not affect the side seam allowance, you can hem the seam allowance by hand.

And this is the stitching on the bottom and the cut on the front side:

Processing the bottom of the product in this way allows you to reduce the thickness of the corners.

3. PROCESSING OF THE BOTTOM OF THE PRODUCT WITH A MOSCOW SEAM WITH SECTIONS ON THE SIDES

Have you ever had to process the bottom of the dress with a Moscow seam, when there are cuts on the sides?

If you had, then you know what the snag is, if not, then I'll tell you now.

If stitching is planned in your model, then it is done in the very last turn (after processing the bottom).

The whole difficulty lies in the processing of corners.
What is the complexity of processing corners?

1. If you process the cuts in the first place, then the Moscow seam along the bottom will turn out to be ugly, and it is at the corners.

2. And if you process the bottom first, then the cut allowance will be ugly attached to the bottom.

So I want to talk about how to make everything beautiful 🙂

1. We build on the bottom by 1 mm, iron and cut off the allowance. Here I do not draw attention, tk. I already wrote in detail how to make a Moscow seam.

2. We fix the corner from the inside - we lay a small bartack line in the corners themselves. The line is done in a line along the bottom.

3. Now we carefully turn the corner on the front side, straighten it, iron it and lay the second line of the Moscow seam.

This is what the corner looks like from the wrong side:

And this is what it looks like from the front:

Now you can lay the finishing line along the cut.

MORE DIFFERENT WAYS OF BENDING

1. The middle part of the front - 1 piece with a fold, turning the cutout of the half of the front - 1 piece with a fold.

2. The side of the shelf - 2 parts.

3. The middle part of the back - 2 parts, facing the neckline of the back - 2 parts.

4. The side of the back - 2 parts.

Seam allowances: hem hem 2 cm; on the seams: 1.5 cm, on the remaining sections: 1 cm.

Preparing the product for fitting

In preparation for fitting, all operations of wet-heat treatment that create the shape of the product as a whole and its individual elements must be performed. The shape of the chest designed in the product, the bulge in the area of the shoulder blades and the back, as well as the three-dimensional forms in other areas, created by wet-heat treatment, must be finalized.

In addition, in preparation for fitting, all constructive lines, tucks must be finalized. All other constructive and shaped lines on the shelves and back can only be sour cream.

Preparation for fitting also includes tacking all the decorative and finishing details that determine the renewal of the product.

In a light dress, depending on the type of repair, folds, tucks, reliefs, sides, fasteners, etc. can be completely processed for fitting. However, in a light dress, with a complex update, it is allowed to limit ourselves to sweeping shaped and constructive lines and details. For fitting in a light dress, all decorative and finishing details are also swept, side and shoulder seams are swept, the bottom of the product and sleeves are swept.

Processing relief seams

Stitched relief seams should be at least 1 cm wide. If the reliefs are located on symmetrical parts of the product, then on one part the relief seam is made from top to bottom, and on the other - from bottom to top. When sweeping a relief seam of a complex shape, the most oblique cut of the part should be on top. When sewing, the line is placed next to the basting line, and it is performed along the most direct cut. (Appendix 2, Fig. 3).

Ironing the seam is performed according to the model. As a rule, vertical seams are ironed towards the middle of the front or back.

Processing of side and shoulder seams

By connecting the shoulder sections, the back and the shelf of the product are folded with the front sides inward, the sections are equalized and, distributing the fit, they are cleaved with pins, after which they are swept away from the side of the back. Grind the shoulder sections from the side of the shelf with a seam 1.5 cm wide. If there are tucks along the shoulder sections of the back and shelves, then they must be processed before basting and grinding the shoulder seams.

To protect the product from stretching while wearing, it is recommended to carry out the shoulder seam with two machine lines. After sewing, the seam is ironed and, as a rule, ironed towards the back. Slices of allowances are overcast.

In products made of easily stretchable fabrics, the shoulder seams are additionally reinforced with strips of a denser fabric or cotton braid. The strips are applied to the wrong side of the front so that the cuts of the strip and the shoulder are aligned (i.e., the edge is directed away from the cut), and in this position the parts are swept away. After basting and grinding the shoulder sections of the front and back, the allowances of the shoulder seams together with the edges are ironed, then ironed towards the back and all three sections are overcast.

To connect the product along the side sections, the front and back are folded with the front sides inward, the control marks are combined, the sections are equalized, chopped off with pins and swept away from the front. Stitching is carried out from the side of the back with a seam 1.5 cm wide, after which the seam is ironed. (Appendix 2, Fig. 4).

Neck and armhole processing

Neckline: Stitch the neckline front facing to the back neckline, iron the seam allowances. Stitch the facings face to face on the neck, combining the shoulder seams of the facings and the dress. Cut seam allowances up to 0.5 cm, cut the rounding several times. Press the facings upwards, stitch them into the stitching seam from the front side, while grabbing the seam allowances. Thanks to this seam, the facings will not twist to the front side. Wrap the facings on the wrong side and stab in the area of the motive.

Rice. 1.

Fold the product so that they are aligned: side sections, armhole section, shoulder sections. Outline the bottom of the product. Overcast the lower cut on special. car and iron. Next, bend the bottom of the product by 2 cm and, turning the edge of the hem, hem it manually with a blind seam. Iron the bottom of the product.