Sew patch pocket briefcase one-sided. One-piece pocket briefcase with flap. A pocket - a briefcase is a fashionable sports version of a patch pocket. Ordinary patch pockets can be easily converted into briefcase pockets. It can be performed in various

Girls, have a nice day everyone!)))) I did the promised MK for my pocket-portfolio. My camera is working worse and worse, it's time to retire it, but I think the essence will be clear even with not very high-quality photos. The fabric is all streaked - I decided to recycle a piece for tildes, which I unsuccessfully managed to tint with tea. Do not disappear good.))))
Well, now read on.

We will need a pocket template made of whatman paper or cardboard. We start by measuring the length of the three sides of the pocket, placing a centimeter on the edge. I got 37 cm.
Croim. On the lining, trace the outline of the pocket and add allowances. The top edge of the pocket does not need an allowance. We also need to draw them. In general, it must be said that in these pockets the accuracy of the allowances is very important. Therefore, I made myself a template for allowances 1 cm wide out of cardboard. Now everything should match up to a millimeter.
We also circle the pocket on the main fabric, add a hem allowance along the top (I have 3 cm). On the sides we draw the same allowances as on the lining.
Cut out the top and lining. We cut the sidewall of the pocket: it is a rectangle. Its length is equal to the perimeter of the three sides of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance; width - 2 widths of the sidewall of the pocket + 2 widths of the allowance. my pocket perimeter is 37 cm + 2 cm allowances, the total length of the rectangle is 39 cm. I want to make the sidewall of the pocket 2.5 cm wide, which means the width of the rectangle will be 2.5 cm x 2 and plus 2 cm. allowances. Total 7 cm. The rectangle turned out to be 39x7 cm.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise facing inward and stitch short sections exactly to the width of the allowance. We twist, straighten and iron.
We apply our rectangle to the front side of the pocket, aligning the short side with the top of the pocket (not the allowance, but the pocket itself) and aligning the cuts.
And we start pinning around the perimeter. In the roundings at the corners, cut the sidewall allowances to fit better.
Wrap the hem allowance on the sidewall and bend the centimeter up, as in the photo.
Put the lining on top of everything inside out and pin in several places.
Sew through all layers, strictly observing the width of the allowances.
Cut the allowances by half a centimeter and cut into rounds. Turn through the pocket hem allowance and iron. Get this result. View from the inside.
And from the face.
Sew the pocket hem allowance, I do not capture the sides, only the middle part of the pocket.
Bend the side panel to the wrong side and stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm.
From the face it will be like this.
And this is from the inside out. Everything is clean and tidy. You can sew the pocket in place.
On things we circle the place of sewing the pocket according to the template. Cross strokes mark the place of the beginning and end of the line.
And we pin the sidewall, strictly combining the edge with the stitching line.
If you strictly observed the width of the allowances, then everything should match up to a millimeter. I matched.))))
Sew to the edge at a distance of 1 mm. from the edge.
In the corner we scribble more slowly so that the line does not run away.
Straighten the side panel, placing it under the middle part of the pocket, and iron.
We get such a beautiful pocket. At this stage, you can make the bartacks in the corners through all the layers, but I don’t like them and therefore I don’t do them, it’s more convenient to use the pocket. And you can fix the corners by putting holnitens.
Now we sew the valve. Reinforce the upper part with interlining or dublerin, fold it face to face with the unreinforced bottom and draw the outline of the flap using our pocket template. The same rounding on the pocket and the valve will look harmonious, and the width will thus be the same.
Sew along the contour and trim the allowances. Turn out, straighten and iron. Cut the open cut to evenness.
Now fold the flap along the stitching line and secure the edge with pins along the fold so that the flap can be unfolded for further work with it. Why is it necessary? See how the slices have shifted relative to each other? if you do not bend it like that, then due to this displacement, the valve will bulge outward. At this stage, you can sew loops if the pocket closes with buttons.
Unfold the valve, cut off the excess along the pins, leaving only 1-1.5 cm and pin, aligning the cut with the pocket entrance.
Sew and cut the seam allowance to 3 mm.
Turn the valve back to the correct position. iron and stitch at a distance of 5 mm. from the edge. Don't forget the bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitch. The pocket is ready. You can put buttons or sew on buttons.
If you turn the pocket inside out, we will see that there is not a single open cut, everything is clean and tidy.
We love the finished result!
Good luck to everyone and warm, roomy and neat pockets!)))

Hi all!

Today, dear lovers of sewing, I bring to your attention the first part of the article about pockets - briefcases.

In three parts of the article on patch pockets - briefcases, we will learn how to make a pattern of a pocket - briefcase, cut out details for it, sew them together and adjust the pocket to the product.

In principle, any patch pocket can be turned into a briefcase pocket. But is anyone worth it? The volumetric forms of such a pocket are already a very noticeable decoration of it. Therefore, a pocket-briefcase will look most organic if the base of the pocket is a piece in the form of a square, a rectangle, a square, a rectangle narrowed from below or from above, or the same square and rectangle (or almost a square and a rectangle), but with rounded edges.

What is the difference between a patch pocket - a briefcase and a regular patch pocket? Volume or, if you like, bulge. That is probably why the pocket is called the briefcase, because when it is ready, on the product, it really looks very much like a briefcase.

These bulkiness or bulge are achieved by adding one (two) more details to the pocket. It is called differently: a placket, a pleat, a pocket connecting part, a rectangular strip of fabric, etc.

And the topic of today's article, a pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners (ends, edges, etc.)

Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.
Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and one separate additional detail.

To make such a patch pocket, you need to add one more additional detail to the pocket base pattern. This is a rectangle whose length is equal to the length of the outer contour of the pocket pattern.

Detail width 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 cm and more (according to the model). The larger the patch pocket is planned - the briefcase, respectively, and the bar is cut wider, and vice versa.

On all four sides of the additional part and on three sides of the pocket (both side and bottom) we add allowances for seams 0.7 - 1.2 cm wide (according to the model). On the top of the pocket, to make a double hem, you will need 2 - 4 cm of allowance (according to the model).

When cutting, it is better to place the pattern of an additional part on the fabric so that the shared thread of the fabric runs along the short, transverse side of the bar. Then the part will be a little plastic along the length (along the transverse thread), which will certainly come in handy when connecting the parts.

The placket can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or it can be made from another, companion fabric or contrasting in color to the main one (according to the model).

Patch pockets - briefcases are the "exclusive right" of clothes sewn from dense medium and heavy materials. And tissue sections of these types, as a rule, are not very “loose”. Therefore, it is quite possible to do without processing sections of pocket details cut from such fabrics.

But since voluminous pockets - briefcases are most often placed on outerwear or on clothes related to sports style, safari style, and clothes of this type, as a rule, are heavily used, subjected to increased loads, it is better that the cuts inside the pockets are protected.

Therefore, we process a cut of one of the two longitudinal sides of the plank from shedding.

We turn the hem allowance along the top of the pocket to the wrong side (along the contour line). There we fold it again, in half, iron it and sew it on the pocket (the width of the seam according to the model).

On the additional part, we turn it to the wrong side and iron it like this, one of the two long longitudinal sides of the part (from the side of the processed cut).

We fold the bar with the pocket with the right sides to each other. And we tack it to the pocket (on the side and bottom sides), with a long longitudinal side (with a raw cut), combining both parts along the contour lines.

The short transverse sides of the strap, along the line of the upper contour of the pocket, are tucked to the wrong side and basted on the pocket.

We lay a machine stitch along the pocket contour.

We cut the allowances of the completed seam to 0.5 cm

In places of rounding, the seam allowance is cut with triangles.

If on the outside along the edge of the pocket (see later in the article) a line is not sewn to the edge, then it is better to process the completed seam from shedding.

We turn the connecting part stitched on the main part of the pocket to the wrong side, we sweep out the edge of the pocket and iron it.

If there is a need for this (according to the model), you can lay along the swept edge of the pocket.

Further. A pocket is placed on the place marked on the product. And combining the folded edge, on the long longitudinal side of the strap and the contour line of the pocket on the product, we outline the pocket on the product, and then stitch it to the edge.

How to fix the top side of the pocket, see below in the article.

Pocket - a briefcase with rounded corners and two separate additional details.

If the patch pocket - a briefcase, which was discussed in the previous part of the article, simply protrudes (due to an additional detail) from the surface of the product, then the pocket, to which the second part of the article will be devoted, looks more like an accordion pocket.

Empty, it may not stand out strongly on the product. But if you put something there, then due to not one, but two additional details, such a pocket “swells up” well.

To make this type of briefcase patch pocket with rounded corners, we need to cut out two additional details. We outline the outline of the pocket pattern, applying it to a new sheet of paper.

And at a distance (width of slats (additional parts)) 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 cm, etc. (according to the model) draw a second contour from the edge of the applied contour.

Using the patterns obtained, we cut out the details of the pocket. The main part is one, but there are two additional ones, the same.

Connecting parts (slats) can be cut from the same fabric as the main part of the pocket, or from finishing fabrics (according to the model).

We cut out all the details with seam allowances of 0.7 - 1.2 cm.

A cut along the upper side of the pocket and four cuts along the short transverse sides of both strips are processed from shedding.

Then, on both parts of the slats and on the main part of the pocket, we tuck the allowances (along the line of the upper contour) on the wrong side and stitch with a seam 0.6-1 cm wide (according to the model, it depends on the width of the allowance).

On one of the strips, we perform the processing of the cut and the hem of the allowance on the wrong side along the sides and bottom sides. How to do this correctly, you can read in the article (the second part of the article, pockets with rounded corners).

Having folded two parts of the planks face to face, we connect them together with a stitching line. The line is laid along the inner contour of the parts.

Sections of the connected parts are processed from shedding.

Now this entire “construction”, consisting of two stitched slats, is placed on the pocket so that the slat, the allowances on the long sides of which are not tucked, lies face to face with the front side of the pocket. (Between them is a second bar stitched to the first, with a bent allowance).

The details of the pocket and strap (one) are swept together,

and then a machine line is laid along the contour of the pocket and strap.

All this time, you need to ensure that the bar inside is not stuck in the seam.

The seam allowances are trimmed to 0.5 cm,

and in places of rounding, allowances are cut with triangles.

We process the completed seam from shedding (for pockets without external stitching to the edge).

Then, the straps are turned to the wrong side of the pocket, the edge of the pocket is swept out

and along the edge:

or the line is not executed at all;

So, how can you fix the now protruding pocket details on the top?

An additional part (bar, pocket connecting part) can be folded in half and the side of the pocket can be sewn with a stitch in the seam, one

On the top, in the corners, on both sides of the pocket, triangles can be stitched, equilateral or more extended downwards.

To more securely fix the entire upper side of the pocket - briefcase on the product, you can first sew the lower side of the strap onto the product with a line up to 3 cm long. The line is laid along the inner seam or fold.

And then the upper side of the bar is adjusted to the bottom line in the seam, (on top, one line or two (according to the model)). See above in the article.

You can not fix the protruding pocket at all (according to the model).

By the way, when making most pockets - briefcases with a valve, this is exactly what they do.

Pocket - a briefcase with a valve.

Often the valve is an integral part of the pocket - briefcase. And it is performed, the valve for the pocket - portfolio, as well as on, after adjusting the pocket itself.

Pockets - briefcases with rounded corners have mastered, let's move on.

Good luck to all! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

This is a trendy, sporty version of the patch pocket. Ordinary patch pockets can be easily converted into briefcase pockets. For rounded pockets, this effect is achieved by using two slats to match the shape of the pocket, and for rectangular pockets, by using one single piece for pleats or one rectangular strip of fabric.

Rounded briefcase pocket

On the paper pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of approx. 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket part as a separate part. Cut out the pocket and the strap from the fabric with allowances for seams along all sections: cut out the pocket once, and the strap twice.

Overcast the allowance along the upper cut of the pocket and each strap, iron it inside out and topstitch. Overcast the allowance along the outer cut of one plank and iron it on the wrong side. Lay the planks face to face and grind the inside edges. Overcast seam allowances together (2).

Pin the bar with the raw outer cut to the pocket face to face. Stitch. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, notch in the fillet areas (3). Sweep the plank to the wrong side. Iron the edge and stitch to the edge. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance, without grabbing the bar with the ironed outer edge.

Pin the pocket to the product and stitch only the bar lying below to the edge. If desired, the lower bar can be adjusted additionally at a greater distance. Sew the bottom bar on each side of the top edge along the inside seam for a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to a length of approx. 3 cm exactly in the seam (4).

A one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap can often be found on clothes for both adults and children. Such a pocket has a voluminous shape, and the entrance to it is usually covered with a valve. Our master class will tell you in detail how to build a pattern and sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands.

One-piece briefcase pocket with flap: preparation for work

How to sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap with your own hands? We will show you how to sew a rectangular pocket with square corners and a flap with rounded corners. The pocket itself can be either a square or a rectangle, its size depends entirely on the design of the model. You also need to decide what the maximum thickness of the pocket will be. To provide this thickness for the pocket, an additional detail is needed: the sides and bottom. This detail can be cut out separately, or it can be made one-piece - we will talk about this version of the pocket in our master class.

As for the valve, the shape of the lower edge plays an important role. The valve can be rectangular, with rounded edges, triangular or have an unusual, curly edge. Another important decision is the pocket closure. The valve can be fixed with a button, magnet or button. We'll show you how to sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a flap and a button. The buttonhole can be either welt (overcast by machine or by hand or with stitching) or laid on (for example, from a tucked cord).

The choice of fabric for the pocket is determined by the design of the model. This can be either the main fabric of the product, or additional material for the entire pocket or only for one part, for example, for a valve. Sometimes, in order to highlight a valve or a pocket, they are cut out from the main fabric, but placed at a different angle to the fabric pattern. This technique is often used when sewing from fabrics in a cage or strip.

The valve consists of two layers. The bottom layer can be made from the same fabric as the top layer. For a valve made of thick fabric, a thinner (or lining) fabric is usually taken as the bottom layer.

So, let's sew a one-piece briefcase pocket with a valve with our own hands!

Pattern making and cutting

Draw the basic shape of the front of the pocket (dark in the diagram).

Add the desired pocket width on the sides and bottom and divide it in half. Swipe diagonally (dashed line in the photo) along the bottom corners.

From the bottom corners of the pocket, draw perpendiculars to the right and left until they intersect with the first line, and then again perpendiculars until they intersect with the outermost line. Cut out the resulting corner parts (in the white diagram). Draw a valve pattern of the desired shape. The width of the flap should be 1 cm wider than the front of the pocket.

cutting

Add allowances to the pocket pattern: 1 cm each from the sides and bottom, including cutouts in the corners. Allowance along the upper edge - from 2 cm, depending on the method of processing the top of the pocket.

Cut out two parts of the valve, with an allowance around the entire perimeter of 1 cm.

Progress

Cut the valve part intended for installation on the lower side of the valve along the sides and bottom by 2 mm.

Fold the valve parts right sides inward, aligning the edges and sew. The bottom piece will be smaller and pull the top piece together. Trim the allowances, in the places of rounding, cut the allowances with triangles.