Empire style in 19th century fashion. Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation Moscow State University of Design and Technology

Early 19th century characterized by the appearance in the art of the Empire style (from the French "empire"). He expressed the aesthetic tastes of the big bourgeoisie and glorified the military victories of Napoleon. Just like the classicism of the 18th century, the Empire style was inspired by ancient images. Many architectural structures almost completely copied the monuments of Rome. The characteristic elements of the ornament were antique laurel wreaths, bows, arrows, palm branches, lions. Ornamental reliefs or murals were arranged in dense symmetrical rows on the motionless surface of palace walls or lacquered furniture, creating a majestic monumentality of the interior.

The Empire style differed from classicism in greater static, pomp, brilliance and pomposity.

“If classicism is looking for simplicity, rest from the excesses of rococo, light lines, delicate colors, subtle harmony, then the empire style is courageous, strict and cold.

Classicism is friendly, Empire is harsh. Classicism is soft and light, Empire style is solemn and pompous. Classicism loves gentle tones: light green, light blue, light yellow. Empire uses pronounced colors: scarlet with black, red with green, deep, blue, bright yellow. Both do not renounce white and gold, but classicism unites them, Empire opposes.

The Empire style costume is solved in unity with works of architecture and decorative and applied art.

The silhouette tends to the cylindrical outlines of a tall and slender column. Dense shiny fabrics are decorated with plain relief embroidery or symmetrical decorative trim. The composition of the costume is static, the decorative solution prevails over the constructive one.

In the men's wardrobe, a dark (brown, black, blue) woolen tailcoat with a high stand-up collar becomes casual wear. Most often it was worn with light trousers and a light waistcoat (Fig. 114). The outerwear was a double-breasted coat, or frock coat, which gradually became the main one in business men's clothing (Fig. 115). In winter and autumn, men wear a coat with several collars or a cape (Fig. 116), which is a very fashionable detail of both men's and women's outerwear of this period.

Hairstyles are mostly short, headdresses are high hats with small brims turned up from the sides.

Boots and shoes were common types of footwear.

The influence of the Empire style in women's clothing was especially profound. Despite the fact that its proportions remain the same as at the end of the 18th century. (high waist divides the figure in a ratio of 1:7 and 1:6, a straight long skirt and a narrow bodice), the use of expensive dense fabrics dramatically changes the plasticity of the costume, in addition, more and more decorative elements appear in it: ruffles, lace, embroidery, frills (Fig. 117). In 1809, the corset reappears in the costume, helping to better preserve the silhouette, reminiscent of the silhouette of a slender column. The dress is made of dense silk or thin transparent fabrics, but on a dense silk lining and embroidered with plain white satin stitch with gold and silver thread and shiny sequins. The dress often has a train, a low neckline, a short puff sleeve with a wide cuff.

A huge role in the women's costume continued to be played by shawls, woolen and silk, plain and with a colored ornamental border, decorated with embroidery and fringe. Their cost far exceeded the cost of the rest of the costume and testified to the high property status of its wearer. In the almanac "Old Years" for 1908, we read: "The most typical and inalienable accessory of the women's toilet of that time was a shawl, brought to France after the Egyptian campaign and since then it has taken root everywhere in Europe ... Another almost equally typical accessory of the women's toilet there was a headdress in the form of a turban or turban, first worn by Parisians. Turbans were made from "Merino", "Cashmere" shawls, from velvet, brocade, thin Indian muslin with gold stripes, white and pink Crepe and were worn either folded into folds, or in the form of a twisted strip with decorations made of pearls and precious stones or sultans of feathers."

By the end of the period, the women's costume becomes heavier, the amount of transverse trim along the bottom increases. The skirt is decorated with frills, lace, scallops. The shoulder line expands, the chest line remains high, the waist falls closer to natural, the bottom line of the extended skirt is shortened (to the ankles). The passion for vertical compositional lines characteristic of the Empire style gives way to horizontal divisions. The figure is made less tall and slender.

Interest in nature, the custom of walking lead to a significant expansion of the range of women's outerwear: short spencers, single-breasted coats made of woolen or cotton fabrics, trimmed with velvet, satin, winter ones - quilted with wadding or lined with fur (Fig. 118).

The costume was complemented by hoods of various styles, sometimes with a veil, and then a tok-type hat, long kid gloves, often without fingers (mittens).

Shoes - open, flat, leather, low heels.

Among the variety of fashion trends there are those that do not lose their relevance under any circumstances. What is the secret of the steady popularity of such stylistic decisions? As life shows, this is due to the practicality, convenience and versatility of certain things. Thanks to these qualities, the Empire style in clothes can be ranked among the veterans of the fashion podium.

People have long been tired of contemplating slender, long-legged creations that are being imposed on them as a universally recognized standard of beauty. Today's fashion is increasingly gravitating towards the classic canons of appearance - soft roundness of forms, femininity, sophistication and grace.

Imperial heritage or the history of the Empire

The name of the style comes from the French word empire - empire. Empire owes its appearance to the wife of Emperor Napoleon. The beautiful Josephine was a great admirer of ancient culture. It was she who introduced high-waisted dresses into the fashion of that time - a characteristic feature of the Greek toga.

The Empire style in clothes of the 19th century was characterized by lightness, simplicity and naturalness. The cut of the dress included a cropped bodice with a deep neckline and puffed sleeves with wide cuffs. The high waistline was accentuated with a satin ribbon. It was tied in the back with a pretty bow. The lower part of the dress flowed gently along the body. The front of the dress looked straight, and at the back it was gathered at the waist. Small folds created beautifully flowing tails.

Dresses were sewn from thin transparent fabrics lined with dense silk. The bodice of evening and festive dresses was embroidered with patterned embroidery of gold and silver threads. A thin train was sewn on the back, giving the dress lightness and airiness.

In cool weather, a cashmere shawl was thrown over the shoulders - a luxurious accessory. Headdresses were distinguished by a wide variety of forms. Hats, berets, turbans, caps and bonnets were in use. To emphasize the grace and whiteness of the hands, they wore high thin gloves made of soft husky.

A long neck was wrapped with several rows of pearl beads. They wore various bracelets on their hands and feet, and rings, rings with precious stones humiliated their fingers. Tiaras and long earrings with pendants were popular decorations.

The characterization of the Empire style will be incomplete if you do not mention the requirements for appearance. The beauties of the 19th century were distinguished by delicate white skin, rounded shoulders and high breasts. The natural beauty of the face was valued, so cosmetics were almost never used.

Over time, the dresses got rid of the train, a corset appeared in them. Dresses began to be more and more decorated with a variety of lace, frills, ruffles. The shoulder line gradually expanded, the waist shifted to its natural place, although the underlined chest was preserved. The length of the skirts has also changed - they have become noticeably shorter.

Who suits the Empire style dress?

The beauty of imperial outfits is that, in addition to convenience and practicality, they have rare versatility. The simple cut of the products is so successful that it decorates almost any figure. Thin tall girls acquire femininity and flexibility. Empire-style dresses for short women are incredibly slim and taller. For full ladies, such clothes are especially beneficial. It can beautifully emphasize the rounded shape of the chest. And the imperfect waist, large belly and wide hips are well hidden by the flowing folds of the expanding hem.

Empire style in modern clothes

Josephine's outfits did not dominate Europe as a whole for very long, but fashion designers never forgot about them. Modern couturiers do not get tired of developing new modifications of classic decoration. After all, such clothes are suitable for any life situation. Modern style is present in numerous dresses and sundresses. Here there is an overestimated line of the chest, characteristic of the Empire, edged with a wide ribbon. The lightness of the flowing silhouette has also been preserved.

The top can be very different - with shoulders, on straps, with long or short sleeves. The contour of the neckline depends only on the imagination and features of the female figure. A rounded, triangular, square or oval neckline can be frankly deep or chastely high.

Evening dresses are performed, as a rule, of a traditional look, to the floor. Everyday dresses are of arbitrary length, sometimes reaching the minimum mark of the thigh. Too short models are usually worn by young people, supporters of the baby doll style.

Empire in the office

Imagine that even a discreet business style gladly accepts dresses with a fitted bodice and a slightly flared skirt. A laconic cut and a modest finish look appropriate within the strictest dress code.

If a democratic atmosphere is declared at the enterprise, then the excessive severity of the lines is well softened by a cheerful print in the form of contrasting polka dots or a floral arrangement. A lace collar, a light jacket and a handbag of bright saturated color give some splendor and emancipation to the image.

For every day

The style of clothing is not tied to seasonality at all. Empire dresses are the perfect model for everyday wardrobe. They look equally good with long sleeves and without them. The models in which the asymmetric arrangement of the straps or instead of the adjacent neckline an exciting “collar” look original.

Sandals or sandals with thin straps wrapped around the ankles are perfect for a fashionable dress - a kind of reminder of the Greek origin. In cool weather, ballet flats or low-heeled pumps will come in handy.

On the holiday

Empire style dresses are the perfect style for wedding dresses. They are made from natural silk, delicate chiffon or the finest lace. A tall, slender bride looks great in open sandals. The lack of growth is compensated by model shoes with stilettos.

To bring the image as close as possible to the Empire style, they make a smooth hairstyle with an even parting and tight curls falling on the face. Long hair is braided and laid back in a thin net.

Any woman will look feminine and sophisticated in a long dress. Pay attention to the photo - what only variations of evening and cocktail dresses were not invented by fashion designers. In a festive style, the bodice may well do without straps, this will further emphasize the smooth slope of the shoulders. Thin light fabrics are smoothly arranged along the figure, forming soft folds and airy draperies. Deep cuts can be located on the hem, which gives the image more sexuality and mystery.

And a long skirt becomes a real work of art after it is decorated with intricate embroidery, elegant lace or shiny stones. It remains to put on model shoes on your feet, pick up an elegant clutch, and the whole world will immediately be at your feet.

Following classicism in Europe at the beginning of the 19th century, the Empire style came into fashion. In history, following Ancient Greece, Ancient Rome becomes powerful and influential, just like classicism is replaced by the Empire style. Classicism was more associated with the influence of Ancient Greece, and the Empire style was influenced by the art of Ancient Rome, namely the Rome of the period of the empire.

The era of the Empire style - 1800-1825. Empire means imperial, it originates in France, during the time of Napoleon, namely at the time of his successes, his victories. After all, Empire is the style of the empire, the style of triumphal arches, arches erected in honor of victories, both in ancient Rome and now in Paris.

Empire will appear in the twentieth century, the so-called Stalinist Empire. Buildings and entire architectural ensembles in the Stalinist Empire style can be found in Kyiv, Moscow and Minsk. So in Minsk, the entire Independence Avenue from the station to the BNTU building is designed in the spirit of the Stalinist empire style, the style of the empire.

The Kazan Cathedral was built in the Empire style, as well as the Stalinist skyscraper in the Stalinist Empire style.

The Empire style is always distinguished by great splendor, brilliance, pomposity.

But let's go back to the beginning of the 19th century. As in architecture, so in fashion, the Empire style is gaining ground.

The silhouette of the Empire costume has a cylindrical shape, tending to the cylindrical outlines of a slender and tall column. One-color relief embroidery, symmetrical decorative trim, dense shiny fabrics are used.

In men's clothing, a tailcoat, which appeared in the era of classicism, becomes common - a woolen one with a high stand-up collar, always in dark tones - black, blue, gray, brown.

They wore such a tailcoat with a light waistcoat and the same light trousers.

The outerwear also remained the previously appeared redingot or frock coat. The frock coat is gradually becoming the main element in the men's business suit. And in autumn and winter they wore a redingote with a double or even triple collar or cape.

Hairstyles - mostly short, on the heads - hats with small and curved fields on the sides.

Footwear - shoes and boots.

But the influence of the Empire style on women's clothing was especially strong. A striking feature of the Empire style in women's clothing is the high waist, which divides the figure in a ratio of 1: 7 and 1: 6, plus a straight long skirt and a narrow bodice.

Corsets, so popular during the Baroque and out of fashion in the era of classicism, are returning again in the Empire period. Soft and light fabrics are replaced by dense ones, for example, dense silk, however, thin transparent fabrics are also used, but always on a dense, often silk lining.

More and more decorative elements appear in the women's costume - ruffles, frills, lace, embroidery. Embroideries are often made in plain white satin stitch with gold and silver thread, shiny sequins.

The Empire style dresses themselves were also characterized by: a train, a low neckline, a short puff sleeve with a wide cuff.

At the beginning of the 19th century, short spencers, single-breasted coats made of cotton and woolen fabrics, trimmed with velvet, satin (and lined with fur) appeared in women's outerwear at the beginning of the 19th century. Outerwear repeats the silhouette, shape and cut of the details of the dress.

Hats - hoods of a wide variety of styles, and sometimes with a veil, hats of the current type.

Toka is a headdress that appears precisely in the era of Napoleon. It was a black velvet hat adorned with feathers. Such a hat was depicted ... on coats of arms, namely on a coat of arms. The color of the band and the number of feathers changed depending on the title of the owner of the coat of arms. So, for example, the current, depicted on the coat of arms of the nobles, had a green band and one feather.

Soon women began to wear such a brimless and rounded headdress.

It was at the beginning of the 19th century, as in the Baroque era, that much attention was paid to hairstyles and headdresses, namely their splendor and elegance.

Gloves are also used: long kid gloves, sometimes without fingers, the so-called mitts.

Shoes - shoes, flat and open, leather and low heels.

Pearls (both artificial and natural), cameos, tiaras, necklaces, necklaces that were wrapped around the neck several times, on the hands - bracelets, rings, bracelets were also worn on the legs, earrings with pendants .

The constant trendsetter in the Empire style at the beginning of the 19th century was the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte Josephine.

Today, the Empire style in clothing is mainly represented in dresses and sundresses. Very beautiful wedding dresses. But the features of the Empire style today are the same as at the beginning of the 19th century: a high waistline, the presence of a mandatory ribbon under the bust, as well as a flowing silhouette and a feeling of lightness. The length can also be up to the toes, as in the beginning of XIX, but it can also be short.

Dresses in the Empire style with cropped skirts give the image a certain femininity and even puppetry, naivety. Because of this puppetry, the name of the style for such dresses appeared - baby doll style.

Empire style wedding dresses are sewn, as well as from traditional Empire silk, and from chiffon. Shoes for such wedding dresses are either flat sandals or high-heeled shoes. The hair is parted into a straight parting, smoothly combed, and curls fall on the forehead. If the hair is long, then they are braided into two braids and placed in a net at the back of the head.

The advantage of Empire style dresses is that they suit almost everyone. So for full girls they will help to emphasize the chest and hide the fullness, for girls with a boyish figure they will give femininity. And for short girls, empire-style dresses will make them look taller and more stately.

The Empire style in art and costume is associated with the name of one person - Napoleon Bonaparte. During the reign of Napoleon, this style is born. And it is precisely with the defeat of Napoleon that the decline of the Empire style in European art is connected.

Jacques Louis David
Emperor Napoleon in his study at the Tuileries

Empire style means imperial. Napoleon believed that he had the power to revive the Roman Empire by conquering and uniting all of Europe. And exactly Roman Empire style begins to appear in the art of France at the beginning of the 19th century.

Columns of the Corinthian order, symmetry, marble sculptures, including ancient gods, all this is inherent in the Empire style. And even the triumphal arch appears in Paris. Like Roman emperors who erected triumphal arches in honor of their victories, Napoleon orders the construction of a triumphal arch in honor of the victories of his "Great Army".

Firmin Massot
Empress Josephine

The Empire style at the beginning of the 19th century was mainly distributed in France. In parallel with it, another style of the early 19th century is developing - romanticism. And if in France there was an imperial style, then romanticism was inherent in the art of England and Germany.

Empress Josephine - Napoleon's wife
was considered a trendsetter in the Empire style

The only country, besides France, in which the Empire style became widespread at the beginning of the 19th century, was the Russian Empire. And there is nothing surprising in this either - Russia also claimed to be the heir to the Roman Empire. There is such a phrase - "Moscow is the third Rome." The city of Constantinople, the capital of Byzantium, was traditionally considered the Second Rome. Namely, from Byzantium once Kievan Rus adopted Christianity.

V.L. Borovikovsky
Portrait of Lopukhina

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Mademoiselle Caroline Riviere, 1805

Especially the Roman influence on the Empire style costume was noticeable in women's dress. A shirt-cut dress, like a Roman tunic, gathered into folds, so popular in ancient Greek and Roman costumes. And, of course, a high waistline, like the Roman tables, which in Rome were worn only by married women.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Madame Rivière, born Marie-Françoise Biben Blot de Beauregard, 1806

Until 1809, with empire dresses, women still do not wear corsets. The corset went out of fashion immediately after the French Revolution at the end of the 18th century, as a relic of aristocratic fashion. However, already in 1809, corsets are back in fashion.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Madame Leblanc, 1823

A white, light fabric, often silk, dress in the Empire style, according to the latest fashion of that time, was often worn wet so that the fabric fit the figure and, thus, the female figure resembled the white marble columns of ancient temples.

In cold climates, such fashion contributed to the appearance of the most real victims of fashion. In winter St. Petersburg, young ladies caught pneumonia, from which in those days one could easily die.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Madame Devose, 1807

But already in the 1810s, Empire-style dresses gradually adapted to the European climate. So, dresses begin to be sewn from denser and more expensive fabrics, for example, brocade or velvet . Dresses are no longer exclusively white, however, they are still most often plain.

V.L. Borovikovsky
Portrait of Princess Dolgoruky, 1811

The dresses are also decorated with embroidery. There are also options for dresses with long sleeves. In the 1810s, Empire-style dresses lost their trains, and their skirt took on a bell-shaped narrow shape.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Madame Marcotte de Saint-Marie, 1826

Over the dresses they could wear a short jacket - Spencer or Kashmiri shawls. As in the days of Antiquity, great importance is attached to draperies. So, in those days, instead of the phrase "well dressed" about a woman, they could say that she was "well draped." Russian fur coats are also becoming fashionable.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Madame Tournon, 1812

Very often, long gloves are worn with empire-style dresses. On the neck - a string of pearls or small beads.

As for the men's suit, comfort has become its main quality since the beginning of the 19th century. Ruffles, puffy, somewhat reminiscent of a skirt, trousers, powdered wigs, all this is a thing of the past. Fashion in the 19th century is no longer dictated by aristocrats, but by representatives of the bourgeoisie. That is, business people, people who work and lead an active lifestyle.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Philibert Riviera, 1808

So, at the beginning of the 19th century, stockings and short culottes were replaced by long pantaloon trousers - ankle-length. These trousers are most often worn with suspenders.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Monsieur de Norvin, 1811-1812

Also, men of the early 19th century wear a white shirt with a starched stand-up collar, a colorful waistcoat and a frock coat. The frock coat is double-breasted, hip-length, with a high collar. Later, the tailcoat comes to replace the frock coat. The tailcoat in the 19th century was everyday wear. It could be of various colors.

The tailcoat was most often worn with light trousers and a vest lighter in color than the tailcoat. Around the neck, men of the early 19th century wore a prototype of a tie - neckerchiefs that could be tucked behind a vest or tied in various ways, for example, with a knot or a bow.

Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres
Portrait of Edme Boshe, 1811

And, of course, many men in the early 19th century wore military uniforms. After all, do not forget that the beginning of the 19th century was the time of Napoleon and his wars in Europe. Napoleon himself also preferred to wear a military uniform, in which he was depicted in formal portraits.

Paul Delaroche

Empire style fashion has had a great influence on modern costume. So, in fact, at the beginning of the 19th century, a prototype of a modern men's suit was formed - a jacket, a white shirt, trousers, a tie. As for the women's Empire style dress, even today empire dresses - light shirt-cut dresses with high waistlines are also relevant. Empire style dresses are very popular in wedding fashion.

Images from the film "War and Peace" 1967

And this is not surprising. These dresses suit a lot of people. After all, Empire style dresses can hide many figure flaws - for example, visually make you taller or hide extra pounds.
https://mylitta.ru/2998-empire-style-dresses.html

The Empire style appeared more than two hundred years ago, in the era of Napoleon. It is believed that Josephine herself, the wife of Bonaparte, was its legislator. In those days, uncomfortable puffy skirts and tight corsets were the main women's clothing. Josephine, on the other hand, introduced the fashion for loose dresses with a high waist, vaguely reminiscent of antique chitons.

Empire style features

The distinctive features of the Empire style suit are a fitted, A-shaped silhouette of the dress, puffed sleeves, as well as a deep neckline. For such an outfit, light silk or transparent fabrics were used, under which a dense lining was necessarily sewn. The female body, shrouded in soft folds, evoked a feeling of admiration in men. But some women of fashion in those days did not stop there. To look even more attractive and sexy, they wetted the fabrics a little so that they fit seductively to their body.

The length of such a dress was at first ankle-deep, but over time it became shorter and shorter. Now they are long "on the floor", medium length with a train, and short ones like "baby dollars". The high waist and short length makes the look a bit doll-like - hence the name. By the way, this option is most often used in cocktail dresses.

Modern Empire style

Today, the Empire style in women's clothing means not only dresses, but also blouses and blouses. They can be successfully combined with trousers or a pencil skirt.

Dresses in the Empire style will suit any figure, as they successfully hide all its flaws. They will give femininity to thin girls, and slightly lengthen the silhouette for short ones. They will help girls with curvaceous forms to demonstrate the beauty of their bust. And for pregnant women, this dress is just perfect.

Many fashion designers and designers actively use the empire silhouette in the creation of evening and wedding dresses. The Empire style suit is a great choice for a social party or a walk on the red carpet. Such a dress in an instant turns a girl into a beautiful and seductive princess, because thanks to the style and flowing fabrics, even the walk becomes feminine and majestic. This style is most popular today among the stars of show business.

Empire style jewelry

Empire-style jewelry will be a great addition to such a dress. Do not wear too many of them at the same time. It is better if there are not so many of them, but they will all be of good quality. It can be rings, pendant earrings, a necklace or just a string of pearls wrapped around the neck several times. Everything should be stylish and tasteful.

Empire style shoes

Under the Empire style dress, it is better to choose models without a heel, on a flat sole. Often, brides choose shoes that look like ballet slippers with ribbons tied around the ankles crosswise. Only the toe should be pointed.

Empire style makeup

This makeup is at the peak of its popularity. A minimum of shadows, blush and lipstick, the maximum proximity to natural beauty. It is popular at weddings, because it successfully emphasizes the innocence and tenderness of the bride.

Empire hairstyle

This style arose on the basis of imitation of the Greek and Roman image, so Empire style hairstyles mean only one thing - curls. They can be spiral, large, flat and wavy, but the main thing is not randomly scattered along the back, but beautifully styled in a charming, neat hairstyle. Often they make smooth hairstyles with a straight parting in the middle of the head. Moreover, decorations with flowers, hoops, ribbons and cords are welcome.