Tajik girls in national clothes. The main elements of the Tajik folk costume. National Tajik jewelry

In Tajikistan, each of the districts has its own national costume. In terms of cut, it is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of jewelry. Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but national tajik costume is still very popular among the villagers.

Tajik men's and women's national clothes are very similar in cut - tunic-shaped, loose, well hides the figure. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessive fitting in clothes.

Tajik national clothes are distinguished by brightness. The costume of Tajiks reflects the degree of well-being. The more luxurious the outfit, the more expensive decorative details it contains, the richer its owner.

Separately, it should be said about the fabrics. Tajiks live in a hot climate, so they prefer cotton and silk fabrics. Purely national Tajik matters include alochu(iridescent striped fabric in different colors, made of cotton and silk), snipes(semi-silk, striped or patterned) and brocade(silk fabric with gold and silver threads).

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the lower layer of clothing is usually sewn from cheap fabric, and the upper layer is made from more expensive.

National clothes of Tajik men

The traditional costume of a Tajik man includes: a cotton shirt - "kurta", trousers, a dressing gown and a wide waist belt. The shirt is sewn from one piece of fabric. It is wide and does not restrict movement. Men wear it loose, gird it with a long narrow cloth or a special scarf folded diagonally. The scarf performs several functions: it is both a belt that supports trousers, and a kind of pocket.

It is interesting that you can learn about the well-being of a man from the belt. So, young poor guys wore belts twisted from square scarves with embroidery on the edges of the "miyonband" or "belbog". And wealthy men could afford wide velvet belts ("kamarband"), embroidered with gold thread.

Trousers("ezor" and "ishton") are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Men wear a robe over their shirts. chapan") of swing free cut, as a rule, striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

The bathrobe can be quilted, if it is a winter version of clothing. Classical chapans have become museum exhibits, and their place has been replaced by modern analogues made of velvet. The main advantage of the classic chapan is that it retains heat in winter and coolness in summer. Since ancient times, men have been given a chapan for important events - weddings, birthdays and even funerals. At the wedding, the bride's brother will not allow her sister to enter the husband's house until the groom's relatives give him a chapan.

And today, in the 21st century, young Tajiks on the first day after the wedding go out to people in chapans, and not modern suits. But in ordinary life, modern men are increasingly combining traditional clothes with European ones. For example, they can wear bloomers with a jacket or a chapan and dress pants.

Women's national clothes of Tajiks

Traditional Tajik women wear long shirt dresses ( kurts) and loose-fitting double-layer bloomers. Shirts with sleeves expanding towards the bottom are decorated with embroidery and have different names depending on the type of collar. In the old days, gussets (inserts, wedges) of a different color were sewn into such shirts, this had a magical meaning and, by giving it, provided the woman with fertility.

The shape of the neckline depended on whether the Tajik woman was married: young girls wore dresses with a horizontal neckline and ties at the ends of the slit. And after marriage, women began to wear dresses with a vertical neckline, decorated with embroidered braid. As underwear, women wore white dresses with a stand-up collar. At the same time, the cutout of the top dress was such as to show the embroidery on the collar, but nothing more.

The outerwear of women is a quilted robe (tsoma) of the same tunic-like cut as that of men, or a munisak, which is slightly different in cut (there is no sewn-on collar, and there are gathers under the sleeves). Older women, starting from the 19th century, wear munisaki without braid and lining, they are simply hemmed with a narrow strip of fabric of a different color.

Separately, it should be said about the veil ("faranji"). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The paranja symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an indispensable attribute bride's attire. In addition, it is believed that the veil protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And, finally, such an element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her child even in public.

Tajik headwear

Male headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap their heads with a woolen scarf. A turban is also still popular, which is worn over a skullcap or a "kuloh" hat.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a dress of three components: turbans, hats and "lachaka" - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The head of the bride is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

For Tajik townspeople - both men and women - soft boots "makhsi" are habitual footwear. They were worn with leather earpieces. Quite popular were ichigi (light boots with a soft toe and a hard back), made from goatskin and famous for their durability.

The villagers had a more varied selection of shoes. In particular, both men and women, in addition to light shoes, wore high-heeled boots or wooden shoes with three legs, the so-called "kafshi chubin".

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successfully combine traditional decorations with modern ones. Women are very fond of wearing necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. It can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry - forged and chased, is made of silver, and is distinguished by some massiveness. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

Do Tajik men wear jewelry? At different periods of history, Tajik men in some regions wore beads with pendants along with women. Previously, men also wore headbands and earrings, they indicated belonging to a certain ethnic group and the status of a person in society. Today only women wear jewelry.

This is, in general terms, the national dress of the Tajiks. Nowadays, it has certainly undergone changes, but traditional skullcaps, bloomers and shirts of various colors are still very loved by Tajiks, including young people.

The government of modern Tajikistan popularizes the traditional Tajik costume in a very peculiar way - representatives of ministries are regularly called upon to strengthen control over the wearing of national clothing.

hopes among employees and not to allow propaganda of alien - European - clothing. Special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers are actively held in the country. And the leading state TV channels go on the air in stylized Tajik clothes.

Magazine with a porcelain doll - Dolls in folk costumes.

56 issue of the magazine - Tajik wedding suit.

Skullcaps

It is better to keep a head in a hat than a turban without a head.

Both adult Tajiks and children necessarily covered their heads. In summer, men wore skullcaps. They differed in cut, fabric and ornament. There were tetrahedral skullcaps with a flat bottom and a cone-shaped top. On flat Ferghana, made in Khujand (from 1936 to 1991, the city of Leninabad, formerly Khojent), on a black satin top, images of almonds - bodom or capsicum - kalamfur, often also called peacock feather, were embroidered.

Skullcaps of the Tashkent type, made of green velvet, were found both without embroidery and decorated with colorful floral ornaments in the form of a bouquet of flowers. The top of the Shahrisyabz skullcaps was completely covered with a floral pattern.

There were two types of hats in everyday life of Tajiks. Arakchin - light lined, sewn from simple fabrics (teak), was worn to protect elegant skullcaps from pollution. Along the edges, the band ended with cloves. Kulokh - a soft cap on cotton wool with a sharp cone-shaped top - was replaced by a skullcap under a turban. For the manufacture of the latter, as well as for the belt sash - feet - the fabric was woven in the form of long narrow strips.

A turban was most often found in the wardrobe of residents of the villages of Zeravshan and the Sughd region.

For the most part, the Matcha residents managed only with skullcaps in the summer. In the cool season, they, in the manner of the Ferghans, tied their heads with a waist scarf, embroidered around the edges.

Tajik shoes

Tajiks put on soft boots on their feet - massi, choruks. They were sewn from the skin of a mountain or domestic goat (in Match - from cow or mutton), and bought at the market or ordered from a local shoemaker. Bashmakitkafsh - leather shoes with a wide closed toe and low backs - were worn mostly by old people.

Boots were put on footcloths made of karbos or woolen fabric. They also wore woolen stockings with an unknitted heel - jurab, they were especially common in the Match. Along the upper edge they were decorated with geometric patterns - squares, rhombuses, trapezoids, zigzags and straight parallel lines.

In the guise of beauties, the miracle of beauty

Tajik folk costume, doll and magazine spread.

A set of women's winter and summer clothes consisted of a shirt - kurta, trousers - isor, a light dressing gown - munisak, scarves - squares, hats - kuluta, boots - choruk. Women wore two types of shirts: kiftaks and peshkusho.

Girls and young women wore kiftaks. For feeding the child, holes were made in them on the sides.

A shirt with a triangular neckline - peshkusho - was worn by older women, they began to wear it 4-6 years after marriage. To feed the baby, the seams between the camp and the side wedge were torn on both sides, the edges were sheathed with threads or edged with various fabrics of contrasting colors. Its edges were decorated with a fringe of paper or woolen threads.

The braid on both sides of the neckline was connected in one line and went down to the knees. Later, it was edged only with a strip of some kind of fabric.

Women's shirts, both children's and men's, were long and wide. In cool weather, only a light munisak robe was worn over them (in Matcha it was made with cotton stitching). In Sogd, Gissar and Match it was worn every day. Outside the mountains, in the Zeravshan valley, at the end of the 19th century, the munisak almost fell into disuse, remaining the clothes of the elderly or mourning. It was worn to funerals by close relatives of the deceased. The transformation of munisak into ritual clothing also took place in other regions.

Isor pants - an indispensable attribute of a women's costume - were worn on the hips, below the waist, and went long and wide. Their upper part was made of cheap material, such as karbos, and the lower part was made of expensive, alchi or chintz. At the bottom, the trousers narrowed and fell down on the foot in folds. The laces used to tie women's pants were made from cotton threads.

Women's laces were less elegant than men's - woolen, woven, with a pattern and tassels at the ends. She gave me her handkerchief, which is more tender than the petals Headdresses of Tajik women - scarves and hats with a braid - kulata, without a braid - kul oh, as well as embroidered skullcaps. Kuluta were sewn on a lining, their winter versions were laid with a layer of cotton wool. The top edge of the cap was slightly pulled together with a thick thread, leaving the crown open. At the back, a braid was sewn to the kulut, sewn from the bottom into a tube.

In the Match, kulut hats were worn by women and girls, in the Sughd and Samarkand regions, as well as in Penjikent and the upper reaches of Kashkadarya - mostly elderly Tajiks, especially those who had reached 63 years old, the age of the prophet Muhammad.

In former times, the kulut was worn under a scarf (young women tied their heads with one, and the elderly with two).

Tajik jewelry included earrings, rings, bracelets, neckbands, beaded necklaces, as well as pendants for braids and scarves.

other presentations on the topic "Tajik national costume"

"Bashkir folk costume" - Jewelry. House carving. Applications on cloth, in the technique of double tambour embroidery. Lesson topic: "Bashkir folk costume." Bashkir ASSR. The headdress is female. Breast decoration of Bashkir women. Teapot with Bashkir ornament. Costume history. Bashkir ornament. Woodcarving. Geometric ornaments.

"Summer suits" - The choice of thread for weaving along tatting must be taken seriously. Rationale for fabric choice. Rationale for choosing a top model. Lay out the patterns on the fabric. The peoples of the East have also been engaged in lace making for a long time. Stage 1. Self-assessment of the design product. Option 1. "Panama". Building a "star" of design.

"Folk costume" - Voronezh folk costume with pony. Tula folk costume. Oryol folk costume with pony and red apron. Kursk folk costume. Tambov folk costume with a pommel. Nizhny Novgorod folk costume.

"Russian national costume" - Headwear. Festive ponevs were richly decorated with embroidery and patterned braid. White - light, holiday. Kokoshniks "magpies"), various bandages and crowns are widespread. On fig. on the right - a straight pleated sundress of a later period. Without the past, there is no present. The edge of the apron was decorated with teeth, white or colored lace, fringe.

"Costumes of the peoples of the Volga region" - Russian costume Tatar costume Kazakh costume. Elements of national ornaments. Along with embroidery, lining with a border of colored fabric was used on everyday clothes. Outerwear sheepskin coats and fur coats, dressing gowns and beshmets. Only the face and hands remained open for married women. The head was covered with a scarf (uraman).

"History of Costume" - Rococo refers to the period from 1730 to 1770. 1900s. As outerwear, figaros, capes, rotundas were very popular. The basic principle of Gothic is the emphasis on elongated and pointed forms. Soon a crinoline appeared - a design in the form of a wide skirt with hoops. The revival era refers to 1420-1490.

DUSHANBE, November 30 - Sputnik. In Tajikistan, they decided to offer women sketches of national clothes that they can wear in any weather.

Experts from three departments worked on the development of models of outfits - the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Tatarstan, the Committee for Women and Family Affairs, and the Committee for Youth Affairs under the Government of the Republic of Tatarstan.

Such an initiative, as noted, was undertaken to promote national dress, and prevent the spread of foreign culture in the country.

For some reason, the authorities of Tajikistan show such concern only in relation to women, but in the pre-revolutionary past, the turban and chapan were included in the daily and official uniform of Tajik men.

Rejection of the European

Alien is not only female. Therefore, it would be necessary to facilitate the task of the three initiative departments of the country and to consider in advance possible models of national clothes for Tajik men, and for all seasons.

But since people in Tajikistan do not quite like European things, they will have to go back to the past, when everything in Central Asia was exclusively national. When, for example, the movement Jadidism ("innovation", - ed.) did not have time to spread, whose representatives at the turn of the 19th-20th centuries tried to borrow and use the fruits of European culture.

So, long before that, the basis of the clothes of civil servants, teachers, merchants and even an ordinary farmer included a tunic-shaped shirt (yaktah), trousers with a wide step (ezor), a swinging robe (chapon, ҷoma), a scarf belt (yakkaband), skullcap (toқӣ, kuloҳ), turban (salla, chakkaband), leather boots with soft soles (makhsi), leather galoshes with a pointed nose (kafsh), in mountainous areas - shoes with three spikes on the sole for easy walking along mountain paths (kafshi chubi ).

The traditional clothes of Tajiks had their own characteristics in each of the ethno-cultural regions, and the rich look of the outfit depended on the status of the man. For example, the last emir of the Emirate of Bukhara, Sayyid Mir Muhammad Alim Khan, wore dressing gowns made of expensive fabrics trimmed with gold threads, as well as headdresses with precious stones. An ordinary farmer could only afford clothes made of cheap cotton fabric.

Thus, if we fast forward to our time, now in winter days, for example, for the ministers of Tajikistan at the very time there would be traditional Tajik quilted velvet chapans with a shawl collar, a warm cashmere turban or a karakul hat, as well as insulated leather boots with a pointed nose. This purely Tajik outfit, in favor of which they would abandon strict suits and coats, would clearly show their respect for Tajik culture.

And students, whose white socks, according to the assurances of a number of local media, find fault with in the country's universities, could, for example, wear a light linen shirt with trousers in the spring, according to a sketch of national clothes for men. On rainy days, they could throw on a swinging robe and tie the belt tightly with a floral embroidered handkerchief. And they would replace white socks with poitoba (onuchi) - a ribbon-like cotton fabric that is wrapped around the foot and lower leg.

It is too expensive

But there is one thing: adras, satin, silk, cashmere and velvet, which are so often used in traditional men's attire, are the most expensive fabrics. Today, of course, not everyone can afford such a luxury.

A meter of panne velvet, for example, in the markets of Dushanbe costs 1,000 somoni (about $111), while chiffon and silk, important fabrics for a man's bow, cost from 300 to 1,500 somoni ($30-167).

Sewing a national costume from these fabrics will cost Tajik men no less than the cost of the material itself. After all, not everyone will take on such a capricious fabric, such as velveteen or velvet. Here, when sewing, it is necessary to take into account not only the direction of the pile and the smoothing of the seams, but also to focus on decatering, which is why the cost of chapans from these fabrics can rise to sky-high prices.

Such a luxury, of course, will not be affordable for ordinary residents. In this connection, the relevant departments, when compiling a list of everyday outfits, will have to pay attention to their cost.

Most likely, taking into account the budget of the average Tajik citizen, it will be necessary to abandon the use of expensive fabrics, and even more so from expensive decorative embroideries. The latter can be afforded only during the days of celebrations of Tajik traditional celebrations.

And for work, men will be able to dress easier: in clothes made of such fabrics as alocha (bright, multi-colored striped fabric made of silk and cotton), bekasab (striped fabric, widely used for sewing men's and children's dressing gowns, wadded blankets and other things) or banoras ( plain cotton fabric).

These materials, by the way, despite their simplicity and cheapness, have long conquered the restrained West. Central Asian motifs can now be found even in the collections of such global fashion houses as Gucci and Dior. So Tajik men with the transition to national clothes will definitely be dressed in the latest fashion.

All these, of course, are only ideas, but if they are put into practice, after a while, at the word "Tajik", everyone will see a colorful brunette with a long dressing gown on the floor.

Over time, sketches will cease to be only advisory in nature and will become everyday fashion, and then a habit, especially if such specialized departments as the Ministry of Culture, the Committee on Women and Family Affairs, and the Committee on Youth Affairs under the government of the Republic of Tatarstan worked on them.

"National Accent"

National clothes are also an expression of the identity of each people. Today's story is about the Tajik traditional costume.

In Tajikistan, each of the districts has its own national costume. In terms of cut, it is approximately the same everywhere, but differs in color, embroidery, and the presence of jewelry.

Young people are increasingly wearing European clothes, but the national Tajik costume is still very popular among rural residents.

Tajik men's and women's national clothes are very similar in cut - tunic-shaped, loose, well hides the figure. Most Tajiks are adherents of Islam and do not welcome excessive fitting in clothes.

Since the traditional Tajik costume is multi-layered, the bottom layer of clothing is usually made from cheap fabric, and the top layer is made from more expensive.

National clothes of Tajik men

It is interesting that you can learn about the well-being of a man from the belt. So, young poor guys wore belts twisted from square scarves with embroidery on the edges of the “miyonband” or “belbog”. And wealthy men could afford wide velvet belts (“kamarband”), embroidered with gold thread.

Trousers(“ezor” and “ishton”) are also sewn quite wide, but tapering towards the bottom. Men put on a robe over their shirts. chapan") swing free cut, usually striped. Mountain Tajiks prefer chapans made of undyed wool, with an embroidered ornament on the collar.

Women's national clothes of Tajiks

Separately, it should be said about the burqa ("faranji"). Tajik women wore them mainly in cities where there were many strangers. The paranja symbolized purity, chastity, modesty and fidelity. Today it is an indispensable attribute bride's attire. In addition, it is believed that the veil protects a pregnant woman from dark forces. And, finally, such an element of the costume allowed a woman to feed her child even in public.

Tajik headwear

Male headdress - skullcap. In cold weather, men wear fur hats or wrap their heads with a woolen scarf. A turban is also still popular, which is worn over a skullcap or a “kuloh” hat.

Women traditionally cover their heads with a headdress of three components: turbans, hats and “lachaka” - a kind of scarf. Sometimes these elements can be used separately from each other.

The head of the bride is still decorated with an embroidered scarf covering her face, neck and chest.

Recently, women have begun to wear skullcaps (totsi), which was not particularly accepted before.

National Tajik shoes

For Tajik townspeople - both men and women - soft boots "makhsi" are habitual shoes. They were worn with leather earpieces. Quite popular were ichigi (light boots with a soft toe and a hard back), made from goatskin and famous for their durability.

National Tajik jewelry

Tajiks are very successful in combining traditional jewelry with modern ones. Women are very fond of wearing necklaces, pendants, earrings and rings.

Jewelry can be seen not only on the neck and ears, but also on the headdress. It can be all kinds of pendants, brooches and beads.

Traditionally, national Tajik jewelry is forged and chased, made of silver, and is distinguished by some massiveness. It is considered normal to wear 3-4 jewelry at the same time, or even more!

The government of modern Tajikistan popularizes the traditional Tajik costume in a very peculiar way - representatives of ministries are regularly called upon to tighten control over the wearing of national clothes among employees and not to allow propaganda of alien - European - clothing. Special fashion shows and competitions for fashion designers are actively held in the country. And the leading state TV channels go on the air in stylized Tajik clothes.