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Stand collar with a shaped neck pattern. Modeling stand-up collar. Rectangular stand collar

A stand-up collar is a vertical stitched or one-piece piece that forms the neckline of a garment and knitwear. A harmoniously matched collar improves perception and implements the stylistic features of the entire product.

General typology of collars

Collars are classified according to the principle of design and appearance. The main classification divides sewing collars into groups.

  • Flat-lying or turn-down (without a rack).
  • Standing (vertical stand along the neck).
  • Standing-turn-down (stand with departure).
  • Jacket type (complemented with lapels).
  • Modified.

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The classic textile stand-up collar is constructed from the main details: the top collar and collar (internal detail). It is used to decorate various necks: closed, decorated with a neckline or decorated with a clasp.

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According to the principle of construction, they are:

  • one-piece (cut along with the main piece of clothing);
  • sewn into the neck;
  • combined.

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Modeling is the creation of a variety of options based on the basic design using various techniques.

Whatever method of creating a collar is chosen, the principle is the same. It is built after creating and modeling the base of the structure and the neck. Important criteria for constructing a collar are the shape of the neck of the product, its depth and width. In some cases, the shape of the neck is repeated as the line of the lower cut of the rack, the seam of the connection of parts.

The shape and appearance of the collar is determined by its length along the stitching seam, the outer edge and the bend of the lower cut. The shorter the outer length, the closer it is to the surface of the neck.

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It is enough to consider the modeling of the stand-up collar in detachable, one-piece and combined forms.

The basis for the construction and modification of collars is any design of the bodice of the shoulder product - for example, blouses of a semi-adjacent silhouette. The type of neck depends on the designer's idea, but not directly on the silhouette of the product.

Classic cutting stand

The basic stand is a collar that is simple in design, which is a rectangular strip detail that shapes the neck.

The detachable stand is the basis of all collars, designing is not difficult. The length of the sew-in seam is always the same as the length of the neckline. The appearance of the collar and the shape of the neckline depend on the designer's idea and the manufacturability of the materials used.

For a better fit to the neck of models of shirts and jackets of semi-adjacent silhouettes, the part of the rectangle design, which coincides with the cut of the neck of the shelf, is built with a slight bend.

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Stages of building a simple collar

  1. Draw the base of the collar, where the short side is the height of the stand in finished form, and the long side is the length of the neck, including the width of the side to the edge of the stitching. The measurement must be taken from the base of the bodice.
  2. Set aside 1/3 of the length of the neck in a straight line to the right. Next, bend the line in an arc to a height of 2.5-3.5 cm. The fit in the neck area depends on the angle of the arc.
  3. Construct the height of the collar of the shelf, laying up a perpendicular equal to the height of the finished stand.
  4. Form the corner according to the model. It can be sharp, elongated or rounded.
  5. The collar is built by duplicating the upper collar.

Collar-stand "yoke"

A collar of the "collar" type can be not only a one-piece drapery of a shelf, which is also called a "swing", but also a set-in stand-up collar.

Building a collar stand

  1. Expand and deepen the neck according to the design of the model.
  2. Construct a rectangle, setting aside half the length of the neck, taken from the base, horizontally. Vertically fix 2 heights of the rack in finished form.
  3. A collar-collar is cut in the form of a rectangular strip, which is then folded in half. The thread of the warp of the fabric with the cut runs at an angle of 45 degrees. This cutting method helps to create drapery and a beautiful plastic edging of the neck.
  4. Before stitching, fold the part in half along the long side. Duplication and strengthening is not required.

One-Piece Rack

One-piece rack is used in blouses, jackets, coats. This type of rack is constructed in two ways.

  • One-piece collar details along with a shelf and back. Shoulder lines continue in the side sections of the rack.
  • The collar is cut in one piece only with a shelf, from the side of the back it is sewn into the neck as a separate part.

The procedure for modeling a one-piece collar of the first type

  1. On the basic design, close the chest tuck, transferring it to the waist or taking it to the shoulder section. Thus, get a clean line of the shoulder slope in the neck area for further work.
  2. Based on a design or technical drawing, widen and deepen the neckline along the back and front. Approximately for a stand of a dress or jacket adjacent to the bodice area, it is enough to expand the line by 1-1.5 cm, deepen it up to 1.5 cm. Draw a change with a smooth line.
  3. Construct perpendiculars at the corners of the neck / shoulder cut. Postpone the height of the stand in finished form - for example, 4 cm. It is recommended to increase the height of the stand by 0.5 cm if its height is less than 3.5 cm for a better fit and to give a smooth shape to the entire contour.
  4. Draw a line for the edge of the shelf board according to the model.
  5. Extend the edge of the bead to the top edge of the upright.
  6. Transfer the shoulder tuck of the back into the collar to form volume in the area of ​​the shoulder blades.
  7. Based on the pattern of the shelf, build a collar and facing the collar from the back.
  8. Check the pairing of parts at the side seams: when connecting the corners of two parts, they must fit into a straight line with a total angle of 180 degrees.

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High stand, one-piece with shelf and back

For consideration - the principle of constructing a one-piece high rack based on a wide neck. A wide stance requires dense suit or coat fabrics, reinforcement of details with interlining, duplicating materials. As a rule, the outer edge of such a collar passes in a smooth line into the edge of the side.

  1. Expand the base of the neckline up to 2 cm along the shoulder line, deepen on the back up to 1 cm.
  2. Connect the shoulder point and the point of the middle of the back. Thus, auxiliary lines will be obtained.
  3. Transfer 1-1.5 cm of the chest tuck solution into the neck, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to any other place.
  4. Determine the shoulder tuck of the back in the cut of the neck. This is done to expand the volume at the top of the bodice and neckline.
  5. Line up perpendicular lines to the auxiliary lines at the corners of the shoulder seams and in the center of the shelf to the height of the stand - for example, 5 cm.
  6. On the middle line of the back, mark the height of the rack + 0.5 cm = 5.5 cm.
  7. Outline the upper contour of the collar in accordance with the technical drawing of the designer.
  8. Check the pairing of the side cuts of the collar.
  9. Build a collar facing and a collar, which depend on the design of the product. The sewing seam of the internal parts coincides with the side seam.

There is also a variant of building a rack, which is cut out in a single long piece, but with a shelf, and has a seam that matches the center line of the back.

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Its difference from previous designs is that the length of the upper edge of the collar is lengthened due to a change in the angle of the set-in part. With this cut, you can achieve a good fit of the rack on the side sections and from the back of the product.

Stages of building a rack

  1. Transfer the chest tuck from the neckline to the side cut or waist.
  2. Change the neckline by expanding by 1.5 cm and deepening by 1.
  3. Connect the points of the middle of the shelf and the shoulder point, creating an auxiliary line.
  4. Extend the auxiliary line towards the back by a length equal only to the length of the neck of the back.
  5. From the last point obtained, draw a perpendicular to the stitching line by about 1 cm. By increasing this value, you can get a larger bending angle of the collar and build a longer outer contour of the part.
  6. Refine the stitching line of the collar with a bend. Its length should be equal to half the length of the neck.
  7. Build a perpendicular, setting aside the height of the rack in finished form from the back. The average comfortable stand height of a women's jacket varies from 3.5 to 5 cm.
  8. Draw a line of the upper contour of the collar with a transition to the edge of the bead.
  9. Correct the mates of all lined up parts.
  10. The hem and collar form a single part, coinciding with the contours of the upper main part of the side and a one-piece collar.

In stand-up collars, as in turn-down collars, the stitching line is of fundamental importance. For a better fit and fit on changing planes, the torso-neck collar is built in the form of a curved line.

Modeling collars "stand" allows you to create different shapes and combinations of vertical options. Depending on the idea of ​​the artist, the design is built on a regular or modified neck. Connection cut lengths are always equal to ensure a perfect knot fit.

In modern fashion, a stand-up collar is associated with an oriental national costume or a strict uniform with a closed high clasp. In a similar way, both the clothes of medical workers and the military are decorated. Its relevance in everyday clothes depends on fashion trends. Nevertheless, one-piece and set-in racks as a unique part of the "DNA of the brand" are taken by modern designers of the personal brands of the same name: Thierry Mugler, Armani in the lines of Collezioni, Giorgio Armani, etc.

Flat collars.

This is one of the types turn-down collars.

Flat-lying collars are characterized by a small stand or its complete absence. This type of collar is mainly used in women's blouses and dresses, as well as in children's clothing, and can come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

The drawing of a flat-lying collar is built directly on the drawings of the front and back. First, we determine the model of the dress or blouse, adjust the neckline, i.e. if necessary, we deepen, expand or change the shape.

For convenience, at the time of construction, we close the chest tuck on the shelf, and on the back - the shoulder tuck.


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Then we put the patterns of the back and front on a clean sheet of paper, aligning the shoulder sections so that the points at the base of the neckline (A4 and B3) coincide, and the points at the ends of the shoulder lines (P1 and P5) overlap each other by 1 - 3 cm. The smaller the entry, the lower the height of the rack. With a larger entry, the rise of the rack increases.


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Outlining the outline neck, partially middle seams front and back, and armhole line.
Look at the drawing to get an idea of ​​which drawing lines are involved in the construction.
We remove the patterns of the back and front and continue building the collar itself on a sheet of paper, where we drew the outline.

Attachment line The collar should exactly follow the line of the neckline of the back and front.

collar width in the middle (distance ASh) and at the ends (B4K), the departure line (ShK), as well as the starting point for stitching (K) in the middle of the front is determined by the model of your dress or blouse, i.e. you yourself. The fly-off of the collar is formed by a smooth line connecting the points W and K.
In this case, it should be remembered that the departure line should approach the line of the middle of the back at a right angle.


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Important: When making patterns, you should know the following.
The template of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3 mm larger than the template of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric the greater the difference should be. This is done so that when turning the turn-down part from the rack top collar could freely go around the lower collar without puffs and deformations - this is the time. So that in the process of basting the stitching line does not look out from the side of the upper collar, i.e. for the formation of a perekant throughout the flight - these are two. And ultimately, to ensure a good collar fit, and hence the appearance of the entire product.
Therefore, first copy one part of the collar clearly along the line from the main drawing, this will be the collar. And then, on a separate sheet of paper, increase this pattern by adding the required value along the outer contour
This will be the top collar. See Fig.6
Fig6 Cut details.


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The share line basically always corresponds to the fold line. Why in the main? Because you can position the midline obliquely. And if you are sewing a product from a fabric with a pattern (a cage, a strip, a coupon, or just a large pattern), then you are guided by the need to match this pattern.
When copying on the template, it is necessary to put marks (notches) that determine the control points for connecting the collar with the neck at the level of the shoulder seam and the middle of the back.
The last step is to copy the collar pattern itself onto a separate sheet of paper. We will end up with two pieces of a cut with a fold. Upper and lower collar or collar.

Ready! You can start cutting. Don't forget to allow for seam allowances when cutting. It is customary to add 0.75 cm along the entire contour of the collar. If you are new to sewing or think that you do not have enough experience, make a pattern with allowances on the seams. In this case, you just have to grind the pattern on the fabric and cut along the stitching line.

After making a pattern, it's best to test it on an inexpensive piece of fabric to make sure it looks exactly the way you intended.

The departure line, and hence the shape of the collar, can have a wide variety of configurations. Figure 6 shows 4 types of flat-lying collars with different configurations of the departure line. You can complete this collection.


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We offer several options for flat collars as an example.
In this example, we deepened the neck somewhat.


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In the following example, we will expand the neck.


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And one more option, in which the starting point for stitching the collar is slightly offset from the center of the front. This option is used if, for example, a ruffle is sewn along the edge of the collar. Or if you intend to attach some kind of decoration (accessory) in the center of the neckline, such as a brooch, bow or flower, etc. Or if you just decided that - just your desire is enough.


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Having mastered the principle of construction, you can design any form of a flat-lying collar on this basis. Starting from school, sailor and ending with an unlimited number of fantasy collars.
Create and enjoy your creations.

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A collar is a piece of clothing that borders and adorns the neck area. It plays a big role in creating the image, as it is in plain sight. Some women prefer to wear dresses with a deep neckline, others like a stand-up collar or a puffy collar. In the 18th century, they were sewn separately from clothing and fastened as needed. They were decorated with silver and gold buttons, as well as pearls.

The style and style of the dress depends on the type of collar. They are: rounded, narrow and large, knitted, standing and lying. Sometimes it is an integral part of the product or a separate invoice item.:

Currently, overhead types of collars for dresses have become very popular. They partially dilute the outfit and completely change its style.

"Peter Pan" is a versatile collar with rounded edges that fits any dress. If it is decorated with beads or stones, it will only emphasize its beauty. An overhead accessory called "dog ears" has an elongated and wide shape. With it, the neckline becomes more open. Often used on dresses with a medium-sized neckline. If you diversify an elegant dress with a sharp collar, this will give it a special impudence. The sharp model will look great in combination with a leather jacket.

Construction rules

The construction of a stand-up collar is the simplest and easiest. Despite the fact that they come in different types, they have the same basis. There is a rule that must be followed when modeling a product: first make the neck and only then the collar. Need to know:

  • When creating a pattern, the main thing is not the shape, but the depth and width of the neck.
  • The neck is applied to the rack on the lower cut, if the model has a large neckline and is made on two parts: a shelf and a back.
  • You can determine the shape of the stand by the cut line of the collar located on top. The shorter the upper cut, the denser it will adjoin the neck.

Non adjacent option

This is a simple collar that is made in the shape of a rectangular strip. The shape of the neck is created depending on the chosen model and style. For a shirt, dress, jacket or coat, it is always different. To change its shape, it is enough to expand the sketch or make it deeper. . Modeling process:

To get a smooth edge, in the upper part of the pattern, 0.2 and 0.3 cm are added to the transverse and upper seam. For a solid model with a collar, the addition is made only in the transverse seams.

Model attached to the neck

If you know the length of the neckline, then an adjacent stand-up collar will be easy to make. It is created according to the same system as the model that is not adjacent to the neck. Before cutting the fabric, make a sketch. Manufacturing master class:

The outer contour of the upper collar is made 3 mm larger than the collar. This will allow you to sew it so that the seams are not visible. Its difference depends on the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the material, the more the length increases. This will form a piping along the top and cross seams, which will hide the stitching seam.

Based on this, the collar is made first. It is drawn according to the main drawing. This pattern is drawn on a separate sheet and enlarged along the outer contour. Get the top part of the collar.

Knitted stand-up collar

Usually men's sweaters, turtlenecks and sweaters adorn a knitted stand. Extra accessories and jewelry irritate men, so when designing clothes, they adhere to strictness. For knitting you will need threads and knitting needles:

At the end of the work, the product is carefully sewn to the neck. To do this, use a kettelny seam. Even a beginner can correctly cut and sew a collar. The main thing is to choose the right model.

Collar patterns can vary endlessly, but their basics are always the same. When building all types of collars, the rule applies: first the neck, then the collar.

For most stand-up collars, the width and depth of the new neckline is important, not its shape. However, if a stand-up collar is built on the shelf and back of a model with a large neckline, then the shape of the new neckline is transferred to the line of the lower cut of the stand. The shape of the stand-up collar is determined by the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar. The smaller the length of the line of the upper cut of the stand-up collar, the tighter it fits to the neck.

This article shows one-piece racks, racks in products with lapels of various shapes, as well as cut-off racks built on a shelf and back with large necklines.

The basis for the construction of collars is the drawing of the base of the jacket of a semi-adjacent silhouette, the front and back are shown to the waist, since only the construction of the collar is considered.

Rack, one-piece with shelf and back

There are two types of one-piece racks. In the first case, the collar is built in one piece with a front and back; when connecting the shoulder sections, the side sections of the collar are connected, which are a continuation of the shoulder sections of the front and back.

In the second case, the collar is built in one piece only with a shelf, and on the back it is sewn into the neck.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck and temporarily transfer its solution to the waist.

Increase the neck of the shelf and back by the amount determined by the model. For a small one-piece rack, it is necessary to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1.5 cm along the shoulder and deepen the neck in the middle of the back by 1 cm, in the middle of the shelf by 1.5 cm.

Draw a new neck. On the back, the neck is drawn at a right angle to the middle of the back. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which to set aside the height of the rack - 2.5 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 3 cm.

Parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line on the edge of the board. Mark the location of the loops / buttons.

Draw the top cut of the stand-up collar in accordance with the drawing. This line is needed to transfer the tuck solution to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the collar and to lengthen the upper cut of the collar on the back.

On the shelf, lengthening the upper cut of the collar for this model is not required, because. narrow collar.

Details of the cut of the stand, one-piece cut with a shelf and a back

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.5 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further lengthen the upper cut of the collar on the back.

High stand, one-piece with shelf and back

A one-piece rack can have a greater height than in the previous model, provided that the line of its upper cut is long enough. To do this, part of the solution of the chest tuck on the shelf is transferred to the upper cut of the collar. As shown in the previous example, the bulge of the shoulder blades also translates to the top cut of the collar to lengthen the top cut of the collar on the back.

Cut the shelf from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest tuck, transfer 1 cm of the solution of the chest tuck to the neck to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For a high one-piece collar, expand the neckline of the front and back by 2 cm along the shoulder and deepen it by 1 cm along the centerline of the back. Draw a new neckline, on the back at right angles to the centerline.

Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neckline on the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the stand-up collar - 6 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the collar along it - 6.5 cm.

Draw the top section of the stand-up collar in accordance with the drawing.

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades.

High stand cut details

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar. Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.

Figured rack, one-piece cut with a shelf and back

This model with a curly one-piece stand looks especially impressive. Thanks to such original details, the product acquires fashionable ease.

Cut the shelf from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest tuck; Transfer 0.7 cm of the chest tuck solution to the neck to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For this one-piece collar, expand the neck of the front and back by 2 cm along the shoulder; deepen the neck in the middle of the shelf by 1.5 cm and in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new neck line, on the back - at a right angle to the center line. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back.

From the top of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 4.5 cm.

Draw the top section of the rack. Draw a collar on the shelf in accordance with the model (see drawing).

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades.

Details of the curly stand cut

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further expand the collar at the back. Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar. Adjust the cut lines at the fillets and indicate the direction of the warp thread

Rack, one-piece cut with a shelf

This model shows the construction of a rack, one-piece with only a shelf. The advantage of this type of collar is that you can change the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar by changing the angle of the back of the collar.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck and temporarily transfer the solution to the side line.

Expand the neck on the shoulder of the shelf and back by 1.5 cm; in the middle of the back, deepen the neckline by 1 cm. Draw a new neckline on the back at a right angle to the midline.

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the extended neck only on the shelf. Extend this auxiliary line by an amount equal to the value of the length of the new back neck.

From the last point obtained, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line 1 cm long (for this model). The larger this value, the greater the angle of inclination of the back of the collar, the greater the length of the line of its upper cut and, accordingly, the less the collar is adjacent to the neck from behind.

Draw a line for the lower cut of the stand-up collar on its back. At right angles to the resulting line, draw the center line of the rack.

From the top of the extended neck of the shelf, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line, along which set aside the height of the stand - 4 cm. Set aside 4.5 cm along the middle line of the collar. Draw a line for the upper cut of the collar.

Details of the cut of the rack, one-piece cut with a shelf

Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 4.5 cm.

In parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line for the edge of the side and the inflection of the lapel, mark the location of the buttons. Finish off the lapel and collar.

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades. This line is needed to transfer the tuck solution to the upper cut of the collar on the back and to lengthen the top cut.

Shawl Lapel Collar Details

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further expand the collar at the back.

Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.

Cutting stand in a product with lapels

Stand-up collars in products with different lapel options always look unique. If the expansion of the neckline on the front and back along the shoulder line is significant or the size of the collar on the front is very different from the size of the collar on the back, then you should copy the front part of the collar and use it when building a detachable stand.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck, temporarily transfer the solution to the waist.

Expand the neckline along the shoulder of the shelf and backrest by 2.5 cm, deepen the neckline in the middle of the shelf by 4.5 cm and in the middle of the backrest by 1 cm. Draw a new line for the neckline of the shelf and backrest.

Parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line on the edge of the board. Draw the fold line of the lapel and mark the location of the buttons/loops. Draw the contours of the lapel and collar on the shelf.

Build a detachable stand-up collar based on a right angle. To do this, measure the length of the new neck of the shelf and back and set aside the resulting value along a horizontal line from the starting point. From the point obtained, set aside 3 cm vertically to determine the amount of rise in the front of the collar and draw the lower section of the stand.

The height of the collar along the midline is 4 cm. Copy the front part of the collar from the drawing of the shelf and combine it with the drawing of the collar (shaded area on the drawing of the collar). Finish the collar cuts.

Details of the cut-off stand in a product with lapels

The length of the shoulder of the shelf and back in this model is 2 cm. Draw a line of the model neck in accordance with the drawing. This line is also the bottom cut of the collar.

At a right angle to the lower cut of the collar upwards, draw a line corresponding to the line of the middle of the shelf on the collar 7 cm long. Draw the contours of the collar fastener parallel to this line.

At a right angle to the lower cut of the collar from the shoulder of the front and back, draw the sides of the collar parts 7 cm long.

Extend up the middle line of the back and set aside the height of the stand - 7 cm along it from the model neck. Draw sections of the stand-up collar through the obtained points.

Details of the cut-off stand

The length of the shoulder of the shelf and back for this model is 2 cm. Draw a line of the edge of the side at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the shelf. Draw a model neck in accordance with the drawing.

Draw on the shelf the contours of the collar and the curly insert of the shelf, one-piece with a lapel and a selection. Draw the back of the collar on the back according to the drawing. Stand-up collar height - 7 cm.

Measure the length of the upper sections of the collar parts on the front and back.

Details of the cut-off stand of a soft shape

This stand-up collar is cut out in the oblique direction of the warp thread, one-piece along the fly away, in the form of a rectangle. The length of the lower cut of the collar is equal to the length of the upper cut of the parts of the collar on the front and back, which is measured in the drawing.

The curly insert of the shelf, one-piece with a lapel and a selection, is copied from the drawing and mirrored with respect to the fold line. Connect the sides of the chest tuck.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.

Collars are very diverse in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. At the same time, the rack can be both detachable and one-piece with a departure. The rack and departure are separated by an inflection line.

The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, therefore, depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.

If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straight or straight line increases the fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.

To build a collar drawing, it is necessary to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We choose it according to the model, depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.

For collars with a high stand, take smaller values, for flat collars, with a low stand, take large values.

The neck line in products is made either along the line of the base of the neck, or expands, deepens, depending on the model features. The expansion of the neckline in the area of ​​the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the projected collar lags behind the neck.

Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck

2. From the point O, horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back (measured on the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the collar stitching line; a smaller value is selected when straight stitching line, more - with a curved one).

3. Up vertically from point O, lay off the amount of rise in the middle of the collar (from the table): RH = 2-4 cm.

4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2 .

From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is laid aside.


5. A smooth line draws the line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.

6. Collar width on the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to the model).

The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upwards from A to the segment BA: AA 1 \u003d BB 1 \u003d 8-10 cm.

7. Connect the straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner).

A 1 A 2 \u003d 3-6 cm.

8. From the middle of the segment B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular of 1-1.5 cm.

9. With a smooth curve coming out of point B 1 at a right angle to the segment OB 1, draw a detachable cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.

10. Connect straight A to A 2

Turn-down collar pattern with cut-off stand

Such a collar, thanks to the cutting stand, ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar is more close to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand.

1. In the drawing of the basic base of the product, expand the neck along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back - by 0.5 cm.

Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.

Mark on the new front neck the point of the ledge of the bead at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.

Measure the length of the new front and back neckline from the middle of the back to the shoulder drop point.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the left of the starting point O the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm.

3. From the point O put up:

  • collar stand height - 3.5 cm,
  • the height of the collar cut-off stand is 4 cm,
  • the position of the inflection line of the collar stand is 0.5 cm,
  • collar width - 5.5 cm.


4. From point A, set aside 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point set aside 3.5 cm to the left.

VA 1 = 3.5 cm.

5. Through A 1, draw up a vertical line on which to detect an arc from B with a radius equal to 10 cm.

BB 1 = 10 cm.

6. Draw the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with fig. The cut line of the rack starts at a distance of 3 cm from point B.

7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.

8. Cut the collar along the line of the seam connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the cut of the collar stitching to the cut of the collar flying off.

9. Lay the sections of the collar and the stand along the lines of the cuts on each other by 0.3 cm at the cuts of the seam of the connection. In the midline, also narrow the collar and stand.

Shirt collar pattern with one-piece stand

1. Build a right angle with a vertex at point O.

2. From the point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.

OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.

3. From A to the right, lay off the size of the ledge of the collar, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (allowance for the fastener on the product).

AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm


4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: RH = 2-4 cm.

5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2 .

From the point O 1, the perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.

From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.

6. Make a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.

7. The value of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.

8. Through A to the straight line OA, restore the perpendicular upwards, on which a segment equal to the height of the rack is laid: AA 2 \u003d BB 1 \u003d 2.5-3.5 cm.

9. Draw the protrusion of the rack with a rounded curve.

10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.

11. Draw a horizontal line from B 2 to the right. Its intersection with the vertical drawn from A is designated A 3 .

Line B 2 A 3 continues to the right by 1-4 cm and put B 3.

A 3 B 3 \u003d 1-4 cm.

12. Connect straight line A 2 to B 3 and extend it up. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).

A 2 B 4 \u003d 7-15 cm.

13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.

Shirt collar pattern with cut-off stand

1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the right from the starting point A the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm.

AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.

2. From A 1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.

A 1 A 2 \u003d 2-4 cm.

3. Directly connect A with A 2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (half-skid allowance).

A 2 A 3 \u003d 2-2.5 cm.

4. Segment AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downward.

The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by 0.5 cm.

Draw a smooth curve line for stitching the rack through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.

5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.


6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars to the segment AA 3 are restored upwards, on which they lay 2.5-3 cm each.

A 2 A 5 \u003d A 3 A 6 \u003d 2.5-3 cm.

7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm down from the middle of the segment.

8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the ledge of the rack is drawn with a rounded line.

9. The line for stitching the collar into the rack is drawn up with the same bend as the top cut of the rack.

From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.

From B up lay a segment equal to A 4 B.

BB 1 \u003d A 4 B.

Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.

Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.

10. Collar departure width: B 1 B 2 \u003d 4-5 cm.

11. From B 2 draw a horizontal to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5, denote B 3.

12. Set aside 1-5 cm from B 3 in a straight line.

B 3 B 4 \u003d 1-5 cm.

13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it up and on it from A 5 set aside 9-14 cm.

A 5 B 5 \u003d 9-14 cm.

14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of the smooth curve is connected to B 5.

Shirt collar pattern with high cut-off stand

The high stand of this strict collar is fastened end-to-end at the midline of the front with hinged loops and buttons.

1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.

Measure the length of the new neckline front and back from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.

2. Draw a horizontal line along which to put to the left of the starting point O the value of the length of the modified neck of the product.

3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar.

4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upwards and from the obtained point B draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.


5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).

BB 1 = 4.5 cm.

6. Make cuts of the collar stand, as shown in the figure.

7. From B 1 set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper cut of the rack. From this point draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, from the last point draw a vertical upwards.

8. Make cuts of the collar in accordance with the picture.