Ski goggles fogged up between glasses how to dry. What can I do to keep my ski mask from fogging up? The most versatile model in the middle price range

The reasons why a mask is so necessary in the mountains are very simple: firstly, it stops the wind and snow that enter the eyes, secondly, it reduces UV exposure, and thirdly, some masks in bad weather allow you to better distinguish the outlines of objects. In this article we will try to give general recommendations for choosing a mask.

A mask should be chosen taking into account several factors. First of all, it depends on the number of days spent in the mountains and on the places where skiing is predominant. Design issues also play an important role. Thus, based on the characteristics, riding conditions, design and most importantly the budget, masks can be divided into four categories.

Budget masks- the simplest masks that combine a minimum of functionality and an affordable price. These masks include, for example, the Smith Cascade PMT, which costs $35. This mask has a regular filter with the simplest ventilation system, while in terms of convenience and quality it does not differ much from more advanced masks.

Helmet masks Not every mask is suitable for use with a helmet. First of all, because the mask may simply not corny fit under it. Therefore, the following functionalities are added for such masks: an unfastened strap of greater length, a convenient mask shape that allows it to fit closer to the face. It is also worth noting that the helmet closes the air to the mask, so they usually do ventilation through the filter. An example is the $90 Anon Theorem mask.

Designer- do not think that these are special masks for designers. In fact, there are several brands that are more concerned with the appearance of masks and their comfort than with actual functionality and quality. At the same time, the work of the designer is primarily reflected in our pocket. An example of such a mask is the $90 Von Zipper Wisenheimer.

high end masks- almost all brands produce masks of the highest level, which include all the above characteristics and more. These features include additional moisture resistance, improved ventilation and special polarized filters. One of the most popular masks of this level is the $125 Oakley A-Frame mask.

peripheral vision

The comfort and design of the mask should not be reflected in performance. The smaller the angle of peripheral vision through the mask, the more uncomfortable it will be to ride in it. the problem is that the mask is affected by several constraints. First of all, it must contain enough air to avoid fogging, so the outer walls will always limit the angle of view. Traditional forms of masks are focused primarily on volume and ventilation. The result is a compromise between style, practicality and performance. Nowadays, manufacturers are paying more and more attention to increasing peripheral vision, especially snowboard-oriented brands have succeeded in this.

Mask fogging

If your mask is still fogged up, then first you need to quickly clear the snow from the inside of the mask or on the foam. The best case for cleaning the mask is the case in which the mask was packed when purchased. Remember, most often there is an AntiFog coating on the inner surface of the filter, so you should not clean the filter with your hands.

How many lenses should be in a mask?
Many masks use multiple lenses (usually two) attached to one another. Such lenses are less prone to fogging, unlike masks with single lenses. Therefore, it is better to take a mask with a double lens.

What other parameters affect fogging?
Some lenses are treated from the inside with a special anti-fog solution. Such lenses cannot be wiped with anything! You can damage the applied layer. The best way to remove moisture from the inside is to bring the mask into a warm room and wait. Ventilation in the case also plays a role. The fresh air is usually drier than the inside of the mask, so the ventilation carries excess moisture out. However, openings that are too large let in too much cold. Ideal option - adjustable ventilation.

What color lenses do I need?
The color of the lenses depends on the riding conditions:

Transparent filter- designed for skiing at night or in cloudy weather.
yellow filter- increases the sharpness of vision, in cloudy weather and fog, recommended for skiing in cloudy weather.
orange filter- Better visibility in fog, in diffused light conditions, plus an anti-reflective effect.
Pink filter- increases the brightness of colors, clarifies the visibility of individual details of the relief.
gray filter- Very good in bright, sunny weather.
Mirror filter- provides good protection against bright light, while eliminating glare well. th filter - very good in bright, sunny weather.
bronze filter- great for skiing on sunny days, but you can ride in it in the evening.

What should be the UV protection?
If you're going to be riding in bright, sunny weather, your lenses should provide at least 95% UV cutoff. This problem is especially acute in the mountains, from about 2000 meters. Ultraviolet It reflects well from snow and stones, so it shines not only from above, but also from below. Even bad weather does not reduce the danger; you can easily get a retinal burn in snowfall or fog.

Category IV alpine goggles should, for example, block 100 UVA and B, and stop 94-96% (!) Of visible light - like a welder (by the way, goggles for welders in the mountains cannot be used- they delay only the visible range, and eyes with pupils dilated for low light will be immediately burned by ultraviolet radiation). Also, they should not leave gaps at the temples and around the nose. In the store, ask for a passport / instructions for the mask, it usually contains parameters, including UV delay.

What if I am wearing optical glasses?
When buying a mask, make sure it doesn't interfere with your goggles when worn over them.

What to look for when buying a mask

belt: some belts contain buckles. First of all, these fasteners are very convenient when putting the mask on the helmet. If you fall and burrow into the virgin soil, then such a belt will avoid the contact of the mask with the snow on your hat. Also, this design helps to avoid discomfort when you remove a wet mask. The pitfall is the durability of such belts, very often such fasteners fail.

form: regardless of the content, each head has its own individual shape. Therefore, it is very important to find exactly the same mask that will ideally protect your eyes from wind and condensation.

In terms of shape, two main parameters can be distinguished: the width of the face and the shape of the nose. In order to determine which mask suits you best, you need to try on a sufficiently large number of masks. Do not pay attention to brands, because. even the most expensive mask will not save you from wind and snow if it does not fit snugly to your face.

foam rubber: in order for the mask to fit snugly to the face, foam rubber is glued along its edges, the foam rubber also softens the blows when falling on the mask. Manufacturers develop unique mask designs and use different materials.

AntiFog lotions: lens fogging is a reality that cannot be avoided, the mask does not sweat only if its owner sits at the bar all day. Understanding why and how this happens will help you keep your mask on while riding. The condition of the filter is influenced by two factors: temperature difference and humidity. High humidity and temperature differences between the inner and outer lens cause the glass to fog up.

ventilation: One of the most important characteristics of masks is the amount of air that passes through while moving. The principle of operation is very simple - the faster you go, the more air passes through the mask. However, a large amount of cold air in the masks causes cold gusts of air at high speed to irritate the eyes.

design: this aspect is completely individual. Manufacturers strive year by year to improve the appearance of masks. Most often, the changes relate to the shape, volume of the mask and ventilation. volume: a lot depends on the distance between the filter and the face. If the volume of the mask is small, then the temperature inside the mask changes very quickly, which leads to the formation of condensation. If the filter is removed from the face, then peripheral vision is limited.

For snowboard mask manufacturers, there is no more important and sacred task than to design and create a mask that will not fog under any conditions and will provide the rider with exceptional, unsurpassed visibility in all weather conditions. In the meantime, read the useful information.

In recent years, we have seen a lot of advanced technologies that promised to crack down on the problem of fogging once and for all. What the manufacturers did not offer: from a mask equipped with a small fan to a helmet design, in which the ventilation system of the mask itself is supposedly built. The reality is that there is still no absolute ideal. Of course, there are better and worse masks, there are better and more resistant to fogging, there are those in which everything is as if in a fog you can see in 5 minutes after the start of skiing.

While you and I are waiting for the miracle and the creation of a mask that is transparent and 100% free of this problem, let's look at simple and convenient methods that will help you reduce lens fogging and maximize the functionality of your chosen mask.

Avoid warm air

The mask fogs up due to the fact that the heat from your body penetrates the inside of the mask and hits the lens, which is exposed to freezing temperatures from the outside. Due to the temperature difference, the liquid condenses and tiny droplets of water “stick” to the inner surface of the lens, clouding your vision and thus significantly reducing visibility.

Very often this happens when you pull a geytor or balaclava under the very bottom of the goggles, thus creating a channel of warm air, which, getting under the mask, contributes to its fogging and spoils your whole ride, or at least your mood.

To avoid this, it is enough not to allow warm air from your breath to penetrate into the mask. A balaclava with holes for free breathing can help solve this problem. For example, a bright and stylish model will protect from the wind and at the same time help the air circulate properly, reducing the risk of fogging.

When you are not riding, do not put the mask on your head, as it is also warm on you and will quickly heat up the lens from the inside. It is best to take it off and carry it in your hand, if you are climbing on a gondola tightly packed with happy riders, then lower your hand with the mask as low as possible, away from the heat radiated by others.

Remove your mask when exercising



If you're walking up the backcountry or you've fallen into powder and are desperate to get out, take off your mask! In the first case, stock up on a pair of sunglasses, and put them on, carefully putting the mask into the case (and not stuffing it into a wet and dirty pocket), in the second, the main thing is to get out of the puffy snow, you won’t be up to the mask there.


Keep an eye on ventilation

Most ski goggles are equipped with a ventilation system, and your task is to ensure that the ventilation holes are not clogged with snow, ice and other items of equipment - a balaclava, a helmet or a hat.

If snow does get into them, then try to be extremely careful and clean the holes with light shaking.

If, nevertheless, it was not possible to prevent the worst and the mask fogged up, the main thing is not to panic and not freak out! No need to convulsively climb inside with your hands and start furiously wiping the sweaty surface in the hope of continuing to ride as soon as possible. It is generally strictly forbidden to do this, since the anti-fog coating is applied on the inside of the lens, and you seriously risk scratching the mask and permanently damaging it.

    Never do not move the mask over the snow cap on his heated forehead when riding. A huge amount of moisture evaporates from its surface, which immediately condenses on the inner surface of the lens. This, by the way, is another argument in favor of helmets - they do not let air through, which means that the mask shifted onto them does not fog up. Try not to keep your mask on during intense physical activity, for example, when climbing and traversing a mountain on foot in search of untouched snow, or when getting out of deep powder. In such situations, body temperature rises along with sweating, and all the moisture evaporated from the skin surface settles on the lens. Therefore, during hiking and transitions in relatively warm weather, it is better to wear ordinary sunglasses, and in cold weather, try to control the load and avoid excessive sweating. When you get out of deep snow, simply slide the mask onto the helmet or take it off for a while and hide it in a special pocket of the skiing backpack. Choose the right balaclava. We exhale a very large amount of warm and humid air when we breathe. It rises up and gets under the mask if you pull on a thick balaclava or a tube scarf, covering both your mouth and nose at once. Therefore, it is advisable to use accessories that will ensure unhindered removal of exhaled air. It is equally important that your mask fits snugly enough on your face so that there are no open gaps through which warm air can freely rise. When sitting with other riders in a gondola or on a chair with the windscreen down, try to keep the mask in your hand and lower - away from the warm air. The moisture contained in it will replenish the amount of frost on the windows rather than settle on your optics. If there are not many people in the gondola, then simply sliding the mask over the helmet is sufficient. In each ski mask, one or another system of “supply” ventilation is presented. At a minimum, this is a thin layer of foam rubber covering wide holes located along the entire contour of the frame. Through them, warm and humid air escapes from under the frame, thereby reducing the risk of moisture condensation on the lens. Therefore, always make sure that the ventilation holes are not covered with a layer of snow and ice, as well as not tightly covered by items of clothing and equipment - balaclavas, hats or helmets. The mask is best ventilated while riding. Therefore, to get rid of a small sweat on the surface of the lens, unless it blocks the view, the oncoming airflow on the descent will help. When entering a cafe or other warm room, do not remove the mask immediately- let the temperatures on the lens surfaces even out a little. Then the chances that perspiration will form on its inside will be lower. If the mask is still fogged up, there is no need to worry and make hasty decisions. To begin with, do not remove the fogged optics in the cold - the moisture will immediately freeze and instead of water droplets you will get frost on the lens surface. Do not rub the inside of the wet filter, especially with mittens or gloves.- this not only leads to the formation of small scratches, but also gradually destroys the "anti-fog" coating. You can wipe the lens only when it is dry and only with a dry soft case, which is included in its kit. The mask can be dried in a cafe or simply replaced with a spare one. You can also carry an interchangeable lens with you and insert it into the frame instead of the fogged one. For the preservation and maintenance of the "anti-fog" coating use only cleaning and care products approved by the manufacturer of the ski mask. In no case do not use "folk" methods to combat fogging of optics. One of the oldest and most common is applying the thinnest layer of toothpaste to the lens. Being in fact a fine abrasive, it not only destroys the remnants of the factory “anti-fog” coating, but also finely scratches the entire surface of the filter.

Under certain conditions, anything sweats. Misting is the process by which airborne vapor condenses. This happens at a moment that in physics is called the "dew point".
Definition of the concept of "dew point" from the Soviet Encyclopedic Dictionary:
"DEW POINT, the temperature to which air must be cooled at a given pressure in order for the vapor contained in it to reach saturation and begin to condense, that is, dew appears."
Here (http://www.pvhokna.ru/info/point.htm) is a dew point table. From which it can be seen that the higher the humidity, the smaller the temperature difference is necessary to start condensation. Different companies solve the problem of a sharp temperature drop in their masks in different ways, but the essence is the same - it is necessary to minimize the temperature difference inside the mask and outside. But among the whole variety of solutions, the main ones can be distinguished:

1. Removing the lens from the rider's face
The farther the lens is from the face, which heats the mask from the inside, the smaller the temperature difference between the outside of the lens and the inside. It is impossible to remove the mask from the face indefinitely, because visibility decreases with every millimeter of distance.
You often notice that the lens begins to sweat first of all in the nose area, where it is closest to the body. Unfortunately, removing the lens from the face in the nose area is very detrimental to vision.

2. Lens ventilation
Different manufacturers have solved the problem in different ways. These are both frontal and vertical holes and channels. When riding, ram air passes through these holes and channels, thereby equalizing the temperature between the inner and outer surfaces of the lens. Some manufacturers have installed small fans on their masks that force air through the mask. But this technology has not become mass because of its unreliability, bulky appearance and high cost.
Many have noticed that the mask begins to fog up when climbing the lift and fogs up when descending the slope. This is explained by the fact that during the ascent, ventilation does not work, because. there is no oncoming air flow (unless the wind is blowing in the face). If the mask fogs up a little and the condensate does not have time to accumulate and turn into ice, then this is not a problem, otherwise it is recommended to remove the mask while climbing the lift.

3. Double lenses
This technology allows you to more effectively deal with temperature differences, the fact that the air is ventilated not only from the inside of the lens, but also inside it.

4. Anti-fog coating
Today, almost all new masks have a factory coating of a special anti-condensation film on the inner surface of the lens. For this reason, it is not recommended to wipe the mask from the inside, even with a special cloth. But this coating, unfortunately, is not durable and after a week or two it does not work. But this coating can be restored independently by buying a spray in almost any sports store or optician.

Tips for mask fogging:
1. Use antifog
2. Remove the mask from your face to equalize the temperature with the external environment at the beginning of fogging or a sharp temperature drop (for example, if you went to a cafe).

But unfortunately, whatever one may say, but:
1) If it's raining and/or the humidity is 100%, then no double glazing, no ventilation and no antifog will help, whatever one may say, but it will sweat. Another thing is that with double glass, ventilation and antifog, the process will be longer.
2) Any antifog should be applied to clean, dry glass in a warm room, on the edge in a warm car. That is, if you came, after a wheelchair in the rain, washed the mask, blotted it with a napkin, a rag, toilet paper (underline as necessary), applied antifog, blotted it with a napkin, rag, toilet paper (underline as necessary), supposedly dried it, the resulting film (not a fact and the fact that it is formed under such conditions) will work at 30% at best.
My recommendations for antifog. Apply in the evening at home, where it is warm and dry, using the manufacturer's recommendations. Let it dry properly. The next day, during the ride, in no case touch the mask from the inside, but ventilate it properly or dry it in a warm car with a stream of warm air. Well, as an extreme case, carry out the processing again in the same machine, but after that let it dry in the car for at least half an hour.