Vest with one-piece collar. Modeling collars. Features of one-piece racks

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select "basic dress pattern" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values \u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.

Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).

We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder cut it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of the shoulder seam, we draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.

Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the shelf into the armhole line - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder cut. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! On the middle seam of the back we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar as on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bending of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the size of the stand (2.5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "collar swing back width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up, (there may be other values \u200b\u200bdepending on the height of the stand and the width of the departure you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).

Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set off the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).

Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the transition area of the pick-up to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer pick-up lines (solid blue and dotted lines).

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be spoiled.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in the finished product, draw it on the right side on the details of the shelf (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.

Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:

Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in

General description of the style of the vest, a set of patterns for it

Electronic pattern of a vest with a shawl collar 40-52

Sizes: 40-52

File Format: PDF full size and without seam allowances.

Price: 1.5 $ (payment in the currency of the buyer's country)

Sewing difficulty level: professional - the pattern is not suitable for beginner couturier, as sewing this vest will require skills in sewing outerwear. In particular, you need to perform the WTO, stick dubbing, process the shawl collar, pockets and connect the vest with the lining.

Tailoring this vest will seem difficult for graduates of tailoring courses, as well as for tailors of a light dress.

The set of patterns for a vest with a shawl collar imitating an English type collar includes (Fig. 1):

Back patterns.
Shelves
Vest selection.

Armhole and lining facing patterns are not included in the set of patterns, as they are trimmed according to the product or according to the same patterns of the back and front.

The chest gain (Pg) is 12 cm - this is a large volume vest (can be worn over a thick sweater or as a double-breasted).

What fabric to sew women's vests of this style

Thick woolen fabrics that are used for sewing coats are suitable: drape, cloth, boucle, ratin. As well as dense costume fabrics such as lightweight drape or velor.

It is also possible to sew this vest model from velvet, jaccade and heavy suiting silk fabrics, but in this case, you should choose the size in such a way that the increase in the chest does not exceed 6 cm.

The consumption of the "top" fabric for a vest is from 170 to 190 cm - depending on the size of the product.

Dublerin consumption from 110 to 180 cm - depending on the width of the dublerin and on the size of the product.

Lining consumption from 130 to 160 cm - depending on the size of the product.

For a more accurate calculation of consumption, you should perform a preliminary layout of the patterns before buying fabric.

In addition to the fabric and butt, you will need a mannequin.

How to download and print patterns

How to cut a women's vest with a collar with your own hands

(detailed description of cutting at home)

Attention! Warning: all shawl collars are quite difficult to cut and sew, so this model is strongly not recommended for beginner home fashion designers.

When cutting this vest, it is very important not only to follow the direction of the grain thread, but also to add seam allowances very accurately. This is especially true for the collar and sides - it is precisely the precise allowances that provide the right fit for the collar and make its processing much easier.

Notches and construction lines when cutting a vest

An equally important point is the application of notches and constructive lines at the cutting stage. Notches are needed at the waist and at the lower point of the inflection of the lapel. These notches are used as a guide when assembling the product.

An extremely important notch is made in the corner formed by the tuck and the cut of the pocket entrance - without a clearly made notch in this place, the assembly of the shelf is impossible. Notches in the corner imitating the lapel and others in the collar area are added during processing.

All professional tailors are well aware of the need to apply the lapel fold line with a slip stitch on both fronts and keep the thread markings until the end of the product.

Pay attention to the length of the line indicating the inflection of the lapel - you need to iron the lapel only at the bottom, at the beginning of the inflection line, or not iron at all. The second option, the so-called "rocking" lapel, is less preferred due to the small width of the lapel. At the same time, the ironing should fade smoothly at the top and its end should not be higher than the marked line.

To save fabric, the selection can be cut out with an additional stitch (Fig. 2), that is, from 2 or more parts. There are nuances in this matter: the stitching seam should not be located above the beginning of the lapel kink, and in thick fabrics, it is imperative to make stitching on the left and right collars in different places.

In addition, the stitching seam can be used to open the stitching loops.

Seam allowances on a vest

Seam allowances are common for jackets and coats (pictures 2 and 3):

shoulder and side seams, middle seam, tuck and pocket entrance, as well as seams of additional stitches and armhole facings - 1 - 1.2 cm each;
on the bottom - 3.5 - 4 cm;
on the departure of the side and collar - 0.7 - 1 cm;
according to the departure of the selection - 1 - 1.2 cm.
Allowances for the sprout, armholes, collar sewing line, inner edge of the pick are not added.

Pay attention also to the difference in allowances for the departure of the side and the selection: it should be 0.3 - 0.5 cm. The thicker the fabric, the greater the difference in allowances. It is especially important to observe such a difference in the collar area. The size of the landing and the quality of the edging depends on the difference.

Separately, you should dwell on the allowance for the middle seam of the back (Figure 2 and 3). If a classic slot is provided, then the allowance for it will be 5 - 6 cm.

Figure 2 shows the layout for small sizes, Figure 3 for medium sizes.

As for dubbing, it is performed in the same way as when sewing a coat (Figures 2 and 3). That is, the back is duplicated below the level of the shoulder blades and the lower cut is cut out with large teeth. The shelf, pick and piping are duplicated completely, of course, with the exception of seam allowances.

In addition, you should duplicate the bottom. Do not forget that the indentation from the edge of the dubbing of the shelf should be 0.3 - 0.5 cm.

Undercut facings can be done both according to the product and according to the same patterns of the back and shelves (Figure 5).

Undercut according to the product for individual tailoring, of course, is preferable, since it takes into account the possibility of armhole correction.

The same can be said about the cutting of the lining - tailoring professionals usually cut the lining according to the product after processing the sides.

For those who prefer to cut according to ready-made patterns, the lining is literally a minus of the facing and selection (Fig. 5). For economy and convenience of cutting, it is desirable to perform the simplest modeling operation - close the tuck and the pocket entrance.

The seam allowances for the lining are as follows(picture 6):

shoulder and side - 1 - 1.2 cm each;
along the middle seam, an allowance for opening the slots should be taken into account - 5 - 6 cm, a “pocket” slot in the area of the shoulder blades is desirable if the vest will be worn on thick clothes, but a couple of centimeters is enough for it;
we do not add allowances on the sprout,
along the cuts to the armholes and to the selection, a double allowance is added - 2 - 2.5 cm.

The layout is a jack, the fabric is folded along the width of the layout, that is, along the width of the shelf and back with allowances.

How to sew a vest step by step

Sewing a vest with a shawl collar is no different from sewing a similar vest or coat.
Darts on the shelf are processed with a strip of top fabric. See how to process darts in outerwear
The pocket can be processed in the seam by adding a leaflet.
The WTO of the vest is performed in the same way as the WTO of the coat.
Fitting - taking into account the height of the shoulder pads on the products that you will wear under the vest.
Further, there is also no difference from sewing a coat.

In a previous article, I showed you how to model a base pattern for creating a pattern for a classic women's vest with a V-neck.

In this article - the construction of patterns of vests with an English collar and a stand-up collar. And also - methods for transferring the chest tuck, which will allow you to sew a vest of any model.

How to make a vest pattern with an English collar and detachable side details.

In an article on building an English collar pattern, I already advised novice craftswomen to make a pattern of the upper collar not with angular lines, but with semicircular ones - it is much easier to work with it.

This process is described in detail in the recommended article, so now we will pay more attention to how to model the base pattern of a vest or jacket in order to sew a model with cut-off side parts - photo 12. You can read about changes in the patterns of the front and back, deepening armholes, in the first part of the master class.

The only difference is in the changes in the cutout line. After you have drawn the line of the edge of the bead at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the shelf, draw the shape of the English collar and make a pattern for the upper collar.

Draw the bottom lines of the vest and pocket. As a rule, the pocket line starts at the waist line and crosses the lines of the central tuck at a slight angle.

We make a pattern of the side parts of the vest.

The width of the finished side piece must be at least 10 cm to get a nice fit at the waist in the finished product. The optimal width is 11 - 15 cm, depending on your size.

For example, for sizes 46 - 48, you have chosen a side part width of 11 cm. It is better to distribute this distance between the patterns of the shelf and back unevenly - the width of the part on the shelf is 5 cm, on the back - 6 cm - photo 13.

After you have determined the width, draw the lines of the side reliefs on the shelf and back. The width of the side tucks is 1-1.5 cm each. On the shelf, you calculate the width of the central tuck by subtracting the width of the side tuck. On average, depending on the measurement of OT, this distance is 2 - 2.5 cm

On the back, the calculation is similar. But it is better to make the width of the side tuck no more than 1 cm, and the central one - no more than 1.5 - 2 cm - photo 13, red arrows.

Cut off the side parts of the front and back along the lines of the reliefs, cut out tracing paper or paper in the area of the darts at the waist.

We model the pattern of the back of the vest.

Models of vests with detachable side parts do not imply a shoulder tuck on the back details. Therefore, it must be closed. The exception is a stooped figure. In this case, it is better to leave the tuck.

How to do.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 (photo 14) approximately in half, draw a horizontal line. Cut the back pattern along this line to the top of the shoulder tuck - point 3. Connect the sides of the shoulder tuck.

In order for the length of the armhole not to change, the resulting solution of a small tuck going to the armhole is evenly distributed.

First, from the line of the central seam of the back, from the lower point of the neckline 4, we measure 0.5 cm to the left and draw a smooth line of the upper part of the central seam.

Secondly, we will change the angle of inclination of the shoulder seam line, lowering it down by 0.2 - 0.3 mm - point 5.

When combining the sides of the shoulder tuck, they may not match in length. Just draw a new line of the shoulder seam, cutting off the excess.

We close the chest tuck.

In order to close the chest tuck, cut the shelf part (without the side part) along the pocket line and connect the sides of the tuck - photo 15. Lower the top of the tuck 1 - 2 cm down - point 6.

Then connect the edges of the central tuck to the shelves and connect the pocket sections. Due to the inclination of the pocket line, as a rule, the upper part overlaps the lower one in the area of the pocket entrance. Most often this is obtained by measuring the exhaust gas, equal to 88 - 90 cm.

In order to cut off the excess without disturbing the line of the inclination of the pocket, draw a line from the top of the chest tuck to the side seam - points 7 and 8 and cut the pattern along this line. At point 8, try to put one part on another so as not to change the length of the tuck, but get rid of the extra 2-3 mm on the side line - photo 16.

Construction of a pattern of a detachable side part.

In order to connect the side parts of the shelf and back into one piece, draw a vertical line on a sheet of paper - the dotted line in photo 17. And cut these pieces along the waist line.

When combined, the upper and lower parts are superimposed. Compensate for the millimeters lost during the imposition on the bottom line - photo 17.

Finishing the pattern.

Check all lines of reliefs and tucks - they must match in length. Once again, check the smoothness of the bottom line on the pattern of the back and the one-piece side part of the vest.

And, most importantly, check the direction of the grain thread on all the details of the pattern - all the lines of the grain thread must be drawn perpendicular to the waist line - photo 18. Otherwise, the product will not work out qualitatively - distortions or creases will appear.

We build a vest pattern with a stand-up collar.

We start by deepening the neck of the back by 0.5 cm - point 9. Then we expand the necks of the back and shelves by 1 cm - points 10 and 11. Along the middle line of the front, the neck deepens by 3 cm - point 12. Draw a line of the edge of the bead at a distance of 1.5 cm from the line of the middle of the front and mark the location of the buttons - photo 19.

To draw a new armhole line, shorten the shoulder seam lines by 2.5 - 3 cm and deepen the armholes by 2 cm.

To build a bottom line, it is necessary to draw a horizontal line on the back and shelf at a distance of 12 - 18 cm from the waist line. To build the lower corner of the shelf with a rounding, set aside 3 cm on the middle line and draw an inclined line that ends in a smooth semicircle.

If desired, you can make a figured triangular cutout on the back and remove the shoulder tuck in the same way as shown in the previous model.

Draw pocket lines and shorten the chest tuck at its top by 2 cm - point 13.

Cut the shelf pattern along the lines of the tucks. Connect the edges of the chest tuck - points 14 and 15. You will get the detail of the shelf shown in photo 20.

On the neck of the shelf, mark the point of the ledge - point 16. At this point, the stand-up collar will begin and end. In order for the right and left halves of the collar not to overlap each other, it is better to place the ledge point at the intersection of the neck line and the front center line.

Construction of a stand-up collar pattern.

The collar pattern is based on the main horizontal line - photo 21.

Measure the length of the new line of the neckline of the back and shelves from the ledge point 16. From the starting point 1, set aside the resulting value minus 0.5 cm to the left.

From the resulting point 2, draw up a vertical line 3 cm long - point 3.

Divide the distance between points 1 and 2 in half - put point 4.

Then divide the same distance by 3 - put a point 5. Connect points 5 and 3 with an auxiliary straight line. Connect points 3, 5 and 4 with a smooth line, as shown in photo 21. This is the stitching line of the stand-up collar.

Set aside the height of the collar from points 1 and 3, for example, 2.5 cm. Draw the desired line of inclination and rounding of the ends of the stand-up collar. Check the width of the rack along the entire length of the collar. Align the collar pattern with the back and front necklines. If necessary, make the necessary adjustments.

Once again, combine all the details of the patterns along the lines of tucks, reliefs, side seams. Check the direction of the lobar thread. On the collar, it runs clearly along the fold line.

Now you can independently build a pattern for a vest of any model. Good luck!

Probably every modern woman has a vest in her wardrobe, or even more than one. It is fashionable, practical, beautiful. The vest can be of a wide variety of styles, different lengths, for different purposes. Modern vests are made from different fabrics and materials, including leather and even lace. Hence the conclusion: there are no many vests.

We offer a pattern of a women's vest with a collar and framed pockets.

This pattern can be used for sewing a classic vest made of suit fabric, plaid fabric, stripes, and you can also choose an elegant fabric, use bright materials, embroidery, beads, sequins, etc.

A ready-made vest pattern with a collar is given for women with a chest girth of 100 and 104 cm.

Bust: 100-104cm

Waist: 78-82cm

Hips: 106 110cm

Pattern for chest circumference 96 cm can bedownload for free .

It is easy to download the pattern, the instruction is located

Instructions on how to print the pattern are

Ready-made pattern of a women's vest with a dan collar without allowances on the seams.

Print the pattern sheets on the printer and connect them in accordance with the diagram. The scheme is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first page.

Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a depicted square of 10x10 cm, the sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the print scale of the document to 100% (without scaling).

Additionally to the main details you need to cut out facings for pockets in a frame 18 x 2.5 cm - 4 parts and valances for pockets 18 x 6 cm - 2 parts.

Before cutting, check again for compliance with your measurements with the parameters of the pattern.

Ready-made patterns are given for a conditionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only after that proceed with cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarifications are possible when trying on.

Having swept away the details, try on the product, make any necessary corrections and start sewing.

The vest can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut according to the main details, without taking into account the picks and facings.

No special recommendations for tailoring this vest model are required. It is only worth noting that armholes can be processed not only with the proposed facings, but also in another way, for example, with an oblique trim or a wide edging. The main thing is that the processing method you choose matches the type of fabric and the purpose of the product itself.

For those who want to build a pattern for a specific figure according to the measurements taken, we have a detailed semi-adjacent silhouette. Having such a basic pattern, you can create a variety of styles of clothing.

Leave your questions, wishes and suggestions in the comments to a specific article. We will definitely consider them.

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Download pattern >>>

Collar - an element of the product, characterized by the "flexibility" of the form. There are a huge number of its modifications, so for each type of face, physique and other individual characteristics, you can choose the ideal option. Most collars have a similar design - this is a visible part and a stand hidden from the eyes, separated from each other by an inflection. The details have a key difference - the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be detachable (it is sewn along the cut line) or one-piece. In the second case, it is usually cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

classic one-piece stand-up collars - with a hidden part height from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
standing-turn-down models with racks 2.5-3.5 cm;
semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

At the racks, the width of the flying part can vary (up to 25 cm), deaf or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or frame it effectively, leaving a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the thing. The racks that are cut out along with the product have features - they must be taken into account when sewing clothes.

vigostore.ru

Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of dense fabric, which is organically combined with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed with a wet-heat method using an iron. Fabrics that are used for uprights rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when building such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of expansion of the neck depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The value can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general "constructive" principle: with an increase in the height of the rack, the expansion along the neck should also grow. When creating a pattern, it is imperative to take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The sequence of modeling in the two cases is different.

If there is no seam connection, you need to build the part vertically, focusing on the middle line along the back. The upper section of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection of the stand with the shoulder is carried out smoothly. In most cases, the excess width is removed in tucks. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the rack (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

studfiles.net

Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of the classic variety of such a collar is built according to the standard scheme. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right side and down.

First draw up the stitching line:

a horizontal line is laid from the starting vertex according to the measure of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
from the end of the segment to the right, an allowance is made for a half-skid (its edge rises by 3-5 mm);
from the original vertex lay 2-4 centimeters along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
the obtained marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
from the first division point, a perpendicular straight line is drawn upward and half a centimeter is measured;
smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from the auxiliary points along the vertical, and its protrusions are drawn smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a take-off cut is constructed with a deposit along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal is laid off after crossing with a vertical, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

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Building Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently on the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Circle the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line in the center of the back up to the height of the rack, and mark the end of the segment.

Progress

From the highest point of the sprout, lay vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically, build up lines 1 cm long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
Outline the drawing of the front (shoulder tuck should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neckline.
From the highest mark, build a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end bring up a segment at half the height along the rack (the angle must be right).
From the end built above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the rack in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they must be equal (although you can determine the value from the model). It is permissible to bring the upper cut of the part to the depth of the cutout or draw it along the edge of the side, if a fastener is provided along the front. When building, be sure to set control marks - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

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Collar design

One-piece rack can be designed "at a distance" from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first, they build the back, tracing the main details on a paper sheet, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Progress

Continue up the midline to the height of the rack.
From the point at the end of the expansion of the sprout, vertically set aside the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter is in the center minus 1 centimeter).
Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above by smoothly drawing a concave curve.
Make a side cut along the control point along the bottom of the sprout.
Make a tuck - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a solution of 1 centimeter and a length along the height of the rack.

The construction of the front also starts from the main pattern. It is circled, in the resulting drawing, the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked. If the product should have a fastener, in the middle you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm for a half-skid.

from the end of the expansion, a vertical is drawn - the height along the rack from the seam in the shoulder;
from the point at the end of the segment, a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters is drawn to the right;
from the extended segment for half-skid up, measure the height along the rack with a centimeter increase;
from the obtained point to the right, a horizontal line of 2 centimeters is drawn.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making tucks, ⅓ of the length of the new neck is taken as the height, and 1-1.5 centimeters are left for the solution.

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Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable one-piece oversized coats have a seam in the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to expand the neck to the desired volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. Details of clothing are copied separately, and an element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is set aside along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From it, a line is drawn along the neck again (it will be needed to decorate the tucks).

Progress

Postpone the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder cut (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the rack.
Make a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or less than in the center.
Draw the upper cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
Draw a smooth curve along the line of the shoulder.
Build a tuck to fit along the neck on the back: a solution of 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), length - two heights along the rack.

The next stage is modeling the part on the shelf.

If the product must have fasteners and buttons, you will need an allowance in the center of the front (depart from the middle 3-4 cm).
The edge along the board is drawn for the entire length of the shelf. It is necessary to expand the cutout by 2-2.5 cm, mark its end with a dot.
From this point, set aside the height of the element minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered similarly to the back).
Smoothly shape the line of the shoulder in the form of a curve.
Draw a bevel along the front line in the form of a straight line, and the upper cut in the form of a smooth curve.
Remove the extra width into the tuck, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (it is usually placed perpendicular to the neck) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the rack.

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To find where the central axis of the tuck is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished without bringing half a centimeter to the top cut on the rack. In a similar way, collars can be modeled on other bulky products - jackets, jackets.