How to cut pajama pants. Pattern of knitted pajamas. Pants for girls. Step by step pattern
It becomes cool and sleeping in warm flannel clothes is a hundred times more pleasant. I really love warm shirts, but I don’t know how to sleep in them at all, because. in the morning it ends up on my neck, I think that I’m not the only one, and in this article I want to suggest that you build a pajama pants pattern immediately on a fabric that even a novice cutter can master. The pattern is universal, without side seams, it is suitable for men's home pants or sleep pants for a son or daughter.
For these warm trousers, cotton flannel is suitable. Our industry mainly produces flannel with a width of no more than 80 cm, so for them you need to take two lengths of trousers plus 15 cm for allowances, for ladies and men with hip sizes up to 110 cm, and if your measurements exceed 110 hip circumference, then I recommend building a pattern on paper, so to figure out how much fabric you need, you might have to buy three lengths and build trousers with a side seam.)
Taking measurements: Tie an elastic band around the waist and leave it until the end of taking measurements. Take off the waist. Hip circumference plus 10-18 cm (if you want to learn looser trousers, take more), I will indicate my measurements, and you substitute yours. It is better to use the help of home for taking measurements.
Standing, measure the length of the trousers from the elastic at the waist along the side to the desired point, mine will be up to the ankle. And from the elastic to the ankle in front. You can measure both measurements to the floor and subtract the distance from the floor to the desired place on the ankle (mine is minus five).
Knee height - on the side of the elastic at the waist to the middle of the knee, usually when I take a measurement of the length of the trousers, I immediately note the height of the knee. Knee girth plus 10-20 cm. Girth at the bottom plus 15-25 cm.
Sitting height plus 3-5 cm (measured while sitting, on a hard chair from the side of the elastic at the waist to the surface of the chair, this increase is given for loose house trousers and trousers for sleep, keep this in mind, you should not build trousers for going out according to this guide, this is a topic other lessons).
And the last test measure, the length of the saddle (taken while standing, the measurement starts in front at the waist elastic band, the centimeter tape is passed between the legs and ends at the midpoint on the back elastic bands plus 3-5 cm).
I will build on the basis of my measurements, and you substitute yours.
My waist measurement is 74 cm.
Hips with an increase of 109 cm.
Pants length on the side 94 cm.
Pants length front 91 cm.
Knee height 54 cm.
Knee girth with an increase of 47 cm.
Ankle girth with an increase of 37 cm.
Seat height 29 cm.
Measure "saddle" with an increase of 63 cm.
In total, for these trousers I will need a piece of fabric equal to two lengths plus 15 cm, total 203 cm, I will also need an elastic band 2.5-4 cm wide, equal to the length of the waist minus 5-10 cm.
Construction starts from the bottom. Align the cut with a square. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, a folding table or on the floor. Attach the square with the short side to the edge and grind along the long one, continue marking with a long ruler, cut off the excess along the marking.
From the cut up, set aside 3 cm for the allowance for the bottom and draw a line from edge to edge.
Up from the marked line, set aside a measurement of the length of the trousers, I have 94 cm. Through this point, draw a horizontal line from edge to edge.
Divide the circumference of the hips with allowance by 2. I have 54.5 cm.
To calculate the length of the wedges. The resulting number 54.5 is divided by the special coefficient 3.8. I got 14.3, I round it to 14 cm. I divide the resulting number 14 again, but already by 3, and I get rounding 5 cm, this is a wedge for the front half of the trousers, the remaining 14-5 \u003d 9 cm is the wedge of the back half.
We continue building. From the top point down, we measure the height of the seat with an allowance, I have 29 cm and again draw a horizontal line.
From the left edge to the right, set aside 2 cm for the allowance, point P, and already from this point to the right, the length of the front wedge is 5 cm (SP point).
From the SP point, the vertical goes up, at the intersection with the horizontal, the TP point.
From the SP point to the right, half the circumference of the hips with an allowance, I have 54.5 cm (SS point).
From the SS point, the vertical goes up, at the intersection with the horizontal, the TC point.
From the SS point to the right, the width of the rear wedge is 9 cm. If there is no longer room for the wedge, then you can cut out trousers with a cutting wedge, I indicated an example with hatching. Lay an A4 sheet below the seat line and secure with pins, building further on the pants on the fabric, you will simultaneously know what the wedge will be. After construction, you will impose it on the free rest of the fabric, an example of a wedge cut is indicated as a red thick line and the same line is a shared thread.
Divide the distance between the points SP and SS in half 27.2, round up to 27, move to the left by 2 cm, and draw a vertical through this point up and down. This is the side seam of the trousers, although we do not have a side seam, but it will be useful to us in the future.
Further, from the TP point to the right, set aside 2 cm. From the SP point upwards on the vertical, set aside a distance equal to the front wedge of 5 cm, connect points 2 and 5 with a straight line. On this straight line down from (.) 2, mark the difference between the front and side measurements of the trousers. My trousers are 3 cm shorter in front, I put aside 3 cm, mark as (.)3. Make a conjugation or manually connect the points of the front wedge, P and 5.
From the TC point to the left 3 cm. From the SS point up, set aside the width of the rear wedge 9 cm. Connect points 9 and 3, this is a temporary line. Pair (..) 9 and C or connect by hand with a smooth line.
Now you need to compare the “saddle” in the drawing and the measurement saddle. Measure with a centimeter a line from (.) P through point 5 to (.) 2 and on the half of the back from (.) C through (.) 9 to (.) 3. Add up the measurement results. My measurement from the drawing is 3 cm less than the test measurement of the saddle, the missing centimeters must be entered in the drawing, otherwise the trousers will inconveniently cut between the buttocks :(
To do this, draw a vertical line from (.) 3 upwards and mark the missing difference of 3 cm on it. If the difference exceeds 5 cm, then I recommend building a vertical line 3/4 long from the difference or set aside the entire difference, the pants are homemade and even for the benefit, there will be no pressure.
Draw the waist line through (..) 3p, B and 3s. I note that in (.) 3p and (.) 3p there must be a right angle.
Now connect (.) 3c to (.)9 and adjust the curved line to (.)c if required. The upper part of the trousers is ready. For trousers with a low waist, you need to take an additional measurement - from the elastic at the waist from the side down, measure the distance to the desired point where the waist is supposed to be low, usually up to 10 cm. On the drawing from the constructed waist line, draw a line parallel line below the desired value.
From (.) B down, mark the height of the knee, I have 54 and draw a horizontal line through this point. About it to the right and to the left, set aside half the circumference of the knee with an increase. I have 47/2, respectively, to the left and right, 23.5 cm each.
Along the bottom line from the side seam to the left and right along half the circumference of the ankle, I have 37/2, 18.5 cm each. From these points, the vertical is 3 cm upwards. In the male version, the width of the bottom can be equal to the width of the knee, you get straight trousers.
Finish the crotch of the front half. From (.) P down, through the point on the knee with (.) 3 on the bottom line. Adjust to make the line smooth.
Draw a crotch line for the back half. From (.) C down through (.) on the knee to (.) 10th line of the bottom. Adjust so that the line is smooth. The length of the crotch of the back half will be about 1.3-1.8 cm longer, with further assembly, this difference will fit.
Grind seam allowances of 1-1.5 cm, 1 cm is enough along the waist line. Fold the fabric, matching the edges with the right sides inward. Cut out the pattern.
The rest will make a belt. The height of the belt pattern is equal to the height of the elastic band + 0.5 + 1, multiply the result by two. My elastic band is (2.5+1.5)x2=8 cm wide, the length is equal to the waistline from the drawing multiplied by two, plus 1 cm allowance.
The pajama pants pattern is ready, it’s more difficult to describe than to build, believe me. If you have questions, ask in the comments, I will try to clarify incomprehensible points. And in the next article I will show you how to sew pajama pants.
Bright dreams, in warm trousers, dear needlewomen!
It becomes cool and sleeping in warm flannel clothes is a hundred times more pleasant. I really love warm shirts, but I don’t know how to sleep in them at all, because. in the morning it ends up on my neck, I think that I am not the only one, and in this article I want to invite you to build pajama pants pattern immediately on the fabric, which even a novice cutter can master. The pattern is universal, without side seams, it is suitable for men's home pants or sleep pants for a son or daughter.
For these warm trousers, cotton flannel is suitable. Our industry mainly produces flannel with a width of no more than 80 cm, so for them you need to take two lengths of trousers plus 15 cm for allowances, for ladies and men with hips up to 110 cm, and if your measurements exceed 110 hips, then I recommend building a pattern on paper, so to figure out how much fabric you need, you may have to buy three lengths and build trousers with a side seam.)
Taking measurements: Tie an elastic band around the waist and leave it until the end of taking measurements. Take off the waist. Hip circumference plus 10-18 cm (if you want to learn looser trousers, take an increase more), I will indicate my measurements, and you substitute yours. It is better to use the help of home for taking measurements.
Standing, measure the length of the trousers from the elastic at the waist along the side to the desired point, mine will be up to the ankle. And from the elastic to the ankle in front. You can measure both measurements to the floor and subtract the distance from the floor to the desired place on the ankle (mine is minus five).
Knee height - on the side of the elastic at the waist to the middle of the knee, usually when I take a measurement of the length of the trousers, I immediately note the height of the knee. Knee girth plus 10-20 cm. Girth at the bottom plus 15-25 cm.
Sitting height plus 3-5 cm (measured while sitting, on a hard chair from the side of the elastic at the waist to the surface of the chair, this increase is given for loose house trousers and trousers for sleep, keep this in mind, you should not build trousers for going out according to this guide, this is a topic other lessons).
And the last test measure, the length of the saddle (taken while standing, the measurement starts in front at the waist elastic band, the centimeter tape is passed between the legs and ends at the midpoint on the back elastic bands plus 3-5 cm).
I will build on the basis of my measurements, and you substitute yours.
My waist measurement is 74 cm.
Hips with an increase of 109 cm.
The length of the trousers on the side is 94 cm.
Pants length front 91 cm.
Knee height 54 cm.
Knee girth with an increase of 47 cm.
Ankle girth with an increase of 37 cm.
Seat height 29 cm.
Measure "saddle" with an increase of 63 cm.
In total, for these trousers I will need a piece of fabric equal to two lengths plus 15 cm, total 203 cm, I will also need an elastic band 2.5-4 cm wide, equal to the length of the waist minus 5-10 cm.
Construction starts from the bottom. Align the cut with a square. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, a folding table or on the floor. Attach the square with the short side to the edge and grind along the long one, continue marking with the help of the length of the ruler, cut off the excess along the marking.
From the cut up, set aside 3 cm for the allowance for the bottom and draw a line from edge to edge.
Up from the marked line, set aside a measurement of the length of the trousers, I have 94 cm. Through this point, draw a horizontal line from edge to edge.
Divide the circumference of the hips with allowance by 2. I have 54.5 cm.
To calculate the length of the wedges. The resulting number 54.5 is divided by the special coefficient 3.8. I got 14.3, I round it to 14 cm. I divide the resulting number 14 again, but already by 3, and I get rounding 5 cm, this is a wedge for the front half of the trousers, the remaining 14-5 \u003d 9 cm is the wedge of the back half.
We continue building. From the top point down, we measure the height of the seat with an allowance, I have 29 cm and again draw a horizontal line.
From the left edge to the right, set aside 2 cm for the allowance, point P, and already from this point to the right, the length of the front wedge is 5 cm (SP point).
From the SP point, the vertical goes up, at the intersection with the horizontal, the TP point.
From the SP point to the right, half the circumference of the hips with an allowance, I have 54.5 cm (SS point).
From the SS point, the vertical goes up, at the intersection with the horizontal, the TC point.
From the SS point to the right, the width of the rear wedge is 9 cm. If there is no longer room for the wedge, then you can cut out trousers with a cutting wedge, I indicated an example with hatching. Lay an A4 sheet below the seat line and secure with pins, building further trousers on the fabric, you will simultaneously know what the wedge will be. After construction, you will impose it on the free rest of the fabric, an example of a wedge cut is indicated as a red thick line and the same line is a shared thread.
Divide the distance between the points SP and SS in half 27.2, round up to 27, move to the left by 2 cm, and draw a vertical through this point up and down. This is the side seam of the trousers, although we do not have a side seam, but it will be useful to us in the future.
Further, from the TP point to the right, set aside 2 cm. From the SP point upwards on the vertical, set aside a distance equal to the front wedge of 5 cm, connect points 2 and 5 with a straight line. On this straight line down from (.) 2, mark the difference between the front and side measurements of the trousers. My trousers are 3 cm shorter in front, I put aside 3 cm, mark as (.)3. Make a conjugation or manually connect the points of the front wedge, P and 5.
From the TC point to the left 3 cm. From the SS point up, set aside the width of the rear wedge 9 cm. Connect points 9 and 3, this is a temporary line. Pair (..) 9 and C or connect by hand with a smooth line.
Now you need to compare the "saddle" in the drawing and the saddle-measurement. Measure with a centimeter a line from (.) P through point 5 to (.) 2 and on the half of the back from (.) C through (.) 9 to (.) 3. Add up the measurement results. My measurement from the drawing is 3 cm less than the test measurement of the saddle, the missing centimeters must be entered in the drawing, otherwise the trousers will inconveniently cut between the buttocks :(
To do this, draw a vertical line from (.) 3 up and mark the missing difference of 3 cm on it. If the difference exceeds 5 cm, then I recommend building a vertical line 3/4 long from the difference or set aside the entire difference, the pants are homemade and even for the benefit, there will be no pressure.
Draw the waist line through (..) 3p, B and 3s. I note that in (.) 3p and (.) 3p there must be a right angle.
Now connect (.) 3c to (.)9 and adjust the curved line to (.)c if required. The upper part of the trousers is ready. For trousers with a low waist, you need to take an additional measurement - from the elastic at the waist from the side down, measure the distance to the desired point where the waist is supposed to be low, usually up to 10 cm. On the drawing from the constructed waist line, draw a line parallel line below the desired value.
From (.) B down, mark the height of the knee, I have 54 and draw a horizontal line through this point. About it to the right and to the left, set aside half the circumference of the knee with an increase. I have 47/2, respectively, to the left and right, 23.5 cm each.
Along the bottom line from the side seam to the left and right along half the circumference of the ankle, I have 37/2, 18.5 cm each. From these points, the vertical is 3 cm upwards. In the male version, the width of the bottom can be equal to the width of the knee, you get straight trousers.
Finish the crotch of the front half. From (.) P down, through the point on the knee with (.) 3 on the bottom line. Adjust so that the line is smooth.
Draw a crotch line for the back half. From (.) C down through (.) on the knee to (.) 10th line of the bottom. Adjust so that the line is smooth. The length of the crotch of the back half will be about 1.3-1.8 cm longer, with further assembly, this difference will fit.
Grind seam allowances of 1-1.5 cm, 1 cm is enough along the waist line. Fold the fabric, matching the edges with the right sides inward. Cut out the pattern.
The rest will make a belt. The height of the belt pattern is equal to the height of the elastic band + 0.5 + 1, multiply the result by two. My elastic band is (2.5+1.5)x2=8 cm wide, the length is equal to the waistline from the drawing multiplied by two, plus 1 cm allowance.
Ready, it's harder to describe than to build, believe me. If you have questions, ask in the comments, I will try to clarify incomprehensible points. And in the next article I will show you how to sew pajama pants.
Bright dreams, in warm trousers, dear needlewomen!
By Marina Pankratieva 10/31/2017
Men's trousers in an hour How to sew homemade trousers with an elastic band based on a pattern of classic trousers
Men's trousers in an hour How to sew homemade trousers with an elastic band based on a pattern of classic trousers. Simplified men's trousers are the theme of our video. We have a course in designing and tailoring men's trousers. Many have already purchased this course for themselves, share in the comments how they do it, that they are satisfied, maybe one of you has your own basic pattern for the basis of men's trousers.
But very often it happens that you need to sew something very quickly and simply, "in haste", as they say. For example, how we sewed a skirt with an elastic band *. In order for us to sew men's trousers with an elastic band for giving, for the beach, for relaxing, something simple and practical for relaxing and for home in an hour, we need a basic pattern-the basis of men's trousers.
men's trousers "in a hurry" based on the basic pattern of men's trousers
So, today we will figure out how to cut and sew homemade men's trousers using a simplified technology based on a pattern of classic trousers. Our trousers will be in a simplified cut without a side seam and with an elastic band.
basic pattern the basis of men's trousers
Here is the basic base of the trousers. The front and green back halves of the trousers are outlined in red, but this pattern is very difficult to sew, so this pattern does not suit us now. Now I will show you how to make a pattern for an easy version of trousers based on this pattern. From the base pattern, we re-shoot the front and back halves of the trousers.
lay out the pattern on the fabric
from the base base we reshoot the pattern of the back and front panel
Since we have mock-up fabric and I don’t see the point in buying two lengths for such a lesson, and if we lay out the patterns on the fabric, it’s not enough for us, so I slightly changed the canvas by hemming the missing piece of fabric where I didn’t get it for laying out the pattern, see photo When you will buy fabric, see in advance how much you need it - one or two lengths of fabric.
the missing piece of fabric for the tutorial is just added
After that, we connect both parts of the pattern so that they match along the line of the bottom of the trousers, see photo
along the bottom line, the details of the pattern must match
After the bottom is leveled, it is necessary to equalize along the top line, the patterns along the hip line are slightly one on top of the other, see photo, we will add this distance later
in the meantime, you need to fix the pattern on the fabric (pin with pins)
align the pattern along the top line and impose them along the hip line
Since our trousers will be elasticated, and along the hip line we slightly removed the volume (so that there is not a very large width along the side seam line when combining the two parts of the pattern), we need to return this volume and add more to this.
this is what the fabric pattern looks like
To do this, we need to make a cut along the ironing line on a paper pattern and push the pattern to such a width that takes into account what we lost when applying the pattern and for additional freedom, to use an elastic band, add the width as desired, look at the photo, how much did I spread the pattern.
we cut along the line of the zipper the pattern of the front panel
we move the pattern to the required width along the bottom line and along the top line
Along the bottom line, you can also push wider. When you buy fabric, see in advance how much you need - one or two lengths of fabric.
In the same way, it is necessary to open the back half of the trousers: arbitrarily, approximately in the center, we cut the pattern and push it apart, fix it with pins on the fabric, so that it is convenient to cut. We do not push it very much, since too wide loose trousers will also not look very good.
open the back half of the trousers in the same way as the front
It remains for us to cut out one detail (the fabric is folded twice), sew one step seam and in the middle, and we will be ready to assemble the top with an elastic band and trousers in an hour! For those who love pockets, you can make a patch pocket**. Now we need to add 4 cm along the top line so that we can sweep and insert the elastic.
add 4 cm along the top line in order to draw a hem and thread an elastic band
When cutting, pay attention to this area - leave a little more seam allowance in this place so that it is also freer there.
when cutting, pay attention to this area
We swept one and the second step seam, now you will see how our trousers will look, of course, it’s best to scribble right away and not sweep, but it’s still inconvenient for me, because the equipment is turned off, but I want to show you the principle, so I sweep.
And you need to mark with a notch where the front part is, then set aside 6 cm for the elastic band, tuck it in half and iron it. The elastic can be inserted with a pin or a special rubber band, it is very simple and convenient to use.
rubber bander
we make a hem for an elastic band and thread an elastic band
These trousers are very comfortable - one crotch seam and one medium, overlock, elastic and trousers are ready! These are the trousers for home and leisure we got!
In this article, as promised, I give a description of how to sew pajama pants. Took me less than an hour to cut and make.
This photo of the panties is not mine, I took it on the Internet, they are low-waisted, I built mine and sewed them with a waist in my natural place. After reviewing, build trousers on fabric.
My measurements turned out to be just right, so as not to cut a wedge. Cut out a cut with seam allowances along the step seams of 1 cm, 3 cm was already invested from the bottom, and 0.5-0.7 cm along the waistline. make notches at the level of the knee.
Fold the fabric right side in and join the crotch seams. At a distance from the seat line to the notch of the knee line, evenly fit the crotch of the back half, fix with pins. I stick the pins perpendicular to the cut and stitch without removing the pins, or as I move in front of the foot, I take out the pins.
Stitch on the machine and then overlock or zigzag over the edges.
Turn one leg right side out, insert it into the second, pin the middle seam or “saddle” with pins. Give a line under the machine and process the cut with an overlock.
Sew a section for the belt into the ring, leaving a hole for threading the elastic.
Iron the belt in half.
Pin the belt on the trousers. Make sure that the hole for threading the elastic in the finished product is inside. For beginner dressmakers, I recommend laying a running seam, and then give a line the width of the foot from the cut. Process the cut on an overlock or zigzag.
On the bottom of the trousers on the front side, grind 3 cm from the bottom.
The bottom fold can first be steamed along the chalked line, then the cut is applied to the fold, placed under the machine and stitched. To stitch the bottom exactly from the edge, I use a magnetic ruler, without it it will also turn out fine if you use the markings on the machine. Or draw a pencil line at the desired distance from the needle, approximately 1.3 cm.
It remains to steam, and pajama pants will keep you warm in cold weather. According to this pattern, I sewed fleece-lined work pants for my husband, and you can sew them for your son or daughter. By the way, I still had lunges and I sewed two quick ones.
Warm nights in cozy pajama pants, dear needlewomen!
Although this article is not about making dolls, I couldn't help but show you the wonderful little dolls you can make yourself. Here, in http://kamyshy.ru/ you will find many workshops on making dolls, doll miniatures, clothes and accessories, and you can also purchase or order a doll according to your sketches.
How nice after a long eventful day and evening to put on soft comfortable pajamas, wrap yourself in a blanket and plunge into the world of sweet dreams. Pajamas made of natural material should certainly be in the wardrobe of every woman. After all, a good sleep is not only a guarantee of a good mood, but also of female beauty. No wonder many manufacturers of face creams equate their action to eight hours of healthy sleep. Do you understand now how important sound sleep is for our body? And so that you sleep well, we suggest sewing pajamas from natural cotton jersey, decorated with a print with a cute teddy bear. Such pajamas will create a mood, and you will only have romantic magical dreams.
The pajamas consist of trousers with an elastic band and a T-shirt. To save you time, we took care of the pajama pants pattern for you! You do not have to build and model it, just download a pattern for 5 sizes, print it and choose your size according to the size table.
The t-shirt pattern is modeled after the hoodie dress pattern we gave in the previous lesson. If you have already built , use it for modeling.
Pajamas are a type of home clothing used primarily for sleeping. The word pajamas comes from the Hindi language. It originally comes from a Persian word literally meaning "clothing for the legs", i.e. trousers. A typical pajama consists of loose pants and a shirt, but the current interpretation of pajamas has changed somewhat and modern pajama sets can consist of both trousers and breeches or shorts, and the shirt is quite harmoniously replaced by a T-shirt with long or short sleeves.
Pattern of knitted pajamas - T-shirt and trousers
T-shirt modeling
The length of the T-shirt on the back is about 70 cm. The increase in freedom of fitting is 5.5 cm to the bust.
back modeling. To model a T-shirt pattern, deepen the neckline of the back by 2 cm and expand by 4 cm. Draw a new line for the neck of the back as shown in fig. 1. On the waist line of the back from the side seam, set aside 2 cm to the left, draw a fitted line of the side seam.
Shelf modeling. Deepen and widen the neckline of the shelf by 7-8 and 4 cm, respectively. Draw a new neck of the shelf, fit the side seam by 2 cm as shown in fig. 1.
Rice. 1. Pajama pattern - t-shirt modeling
Rice. 2. Sleeve pattern for a T-shirt
How to transfer an image of a teddy bear to a T-shirt
In this model, the image of a teddy bear is printed on a T-shirt using thermal printing. You can choose any image you like and print it on a T-shirt. Today, in almost every city there are companies that offer printing images on fabrics and canvases. Print the image on the knitted fabric according to the markup, and then cut the shelf. You can download our proposed image below.
IMPORTANT! Before buying a fabric, be sure to ask the printing specialists on which particular knitted fabric it is possible to print an image and whether there are any restrictions on the quality of the fabric and what is needed for this.
Image of cubs for t-shirt
How to cut a T-shirt for pajamas
To sew a T-shirt you will need: about 0.8 cm of a gray knitted fabric 1.8 m wide (a cooler is ideal).
Details of the T-shirt cut are given in fig. 3. In addition, cut out an oblique strip 4 cm wide (1.5 cm in finished form) from a fabric of a contrasting color and length along the length of the neck of the back and front. When cutting on all sides of the details, be sure to add allowances of 1 cm, along the bottom of the T-shirt and sleeves - 2 cm. We recommend sewing pajamas - a T-shirt and trousers with a four-thread overlock stitch.
Rice. 3. T-shirt cut details
The length of the trousers according to the pattern along the side seam is about 104 cm. The pajama trousers pattern is given in natural size for 5 sizes, you just need to download and print it. We have prepared two formats for you - A0 (you can print in A0 format at a copy center) and A4 (you can print in A4 format on any printer, then the sheets need to be glued together).
IMPORTANT! The waist line of the trousers is underestimated by 4 cm. Keep this in mind when checking the pattern. Patch and side pockets on pajamas can be omitted.
How to determine your size
Take measurements from the figure and compare them with the measurements from the Table. The main measurement for pants is the circumference of the hips. When choosing the size of the pattern of trousers, it is also important to take into account the measurement of the height of the seat. It is the height of the seat that determines the level of location (depth) of the middle seam. And if the depth of the seam is insufficient, the trousers will be "shallow" and vice versa.
Compare your measurements with the table and determine the size of the trousers. Then check the selected size as shown in fig. 2.
Rice. Table of women's measurements
How to check a pattern
Sometimes, when printing, due to printer settings, the pattern may be forcibly compressed. It is for this purpose that a “test square” with sides of 100 x 100 mm is applied to the details of the pattern. After printing the pattern, first of all measure the sides of the square, and make sure that the pattern is printed correctly.
Rice. 5. How to Check Pajama Pants Pattern
To check the conformity of the size you have chosen (in Fig. 2. size 50), measure according to the pattern:
- Middle seam length: X1+X2
- Waist: X3+X4
- Pants length X5
- Bottom width of trousers: Х6+Х7
Compare the values obtained with your measurements. Since trousers are sewn from knitted fabric, the measurements should be equal to those taken from the figure, or have slight deviations up or down.
How to cut pajama pants
For sewing trousers, you will need: 1.2 m of coolers (knitted cotton fabric) of azure-blue color 160 cm wide, about 0.9 m of elastic band 3 cm wide, threads.
