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Hello dear blog readers! A huge number of people, before sticking wallpaper, think about whether it is necessary to putty and prime the walls. Even, it seems, priming and puttying the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands is easy to do, but are they so important and necessary? Is it worth spending your time and money? This is what we will talk about next.

Summary of this article:

Why is it necessary to putty the walls before wallpapering?

Puttying the walls before wallpapering is necessary, first of all, to completely level the base of the walls. Thanks to this procedure, the wallpaper will lay down as an even sheet when glued, and after drying, small tubercles and other irregularities will not appear, unlike an unprepared surface.

Also, in favor of puttying the walls under the wallpaper, the transparency of some modern types of wallpaper speaks. If the walls were not prepared for wallpapering, then after the glue dries, dark spots that were on the walls can be seen through the wallpaper, and now they will visually destroy all your repair efforts.

As you know, the mixtures for wall putty, presented on the construction market, for the most part have a light, most often even white shade. It is this property that will protect the wallpaper from various kinds of translucence.

Then, the puttying of the walls gives a certain lull to the whole room, i.e. creates a good effect of sound insulation (noise insulation).

In addition, puttyed walls create a solid, even surface, adhesion to which the wallpaper will be as reliable as possible.

Do not forget about the good water resistance (waterproofing) of the walls after puttying. Putty walls repel moisture, which allows you to significantly save on the consumption of wallpaper glue when wallpapering.

What is the best wall putty for wallpaper?

Modern mixes for puttying walls for wallpaper differ both in external characteristics and in their composition.

According to the external characteristics of putties for walls, the division is as follows:

• Mixtures in the form of pastes, which are ready-made and do not require further preparation.

• Dry powder mixes that require the addition of liquid during preparation.

By composition, mixtures for puttying walls for wallpaper are divided into:

• Polymer mixtures, or as they are also called acrylic (latex). They are easy to apply to the wall, and are also easy to rub and polish in the future.

• Gypsum and cement mixtures. They are the best and most common. They are easy to use and very reliable. They require water to cook.

• Dispersed water mixtures. They have a very viscous consistency and are sold ready-made. The only disadvantage of using them is a slight shrinkage after complete drying.

Most of all, cement and gypsum dry powder mixtures are suitable for correct and trouble-free wall filling before wallpapering. they are easy to apply, and, having the properties of repelling moisture after drying, do not enter into a chemical reaction with wallpaper glue, which is diluted with water during preparation.

What tool is needed to putty the walls under the wallpaper?

The first step is to choose a container for mixing the solution. It has to be roomy and comfortable at the same time.

A power tool will need a nozzle called a mixer. This is a special building attachment that looks a bit like a kitchen whisk for a mixer or blender. It is with its help that it will be possible to achieve the desired consistency of the solution.

Also an important tool when puttying walls for wallpaper is the building level, with which you will be able to smoothly complete all the work. It can be either a laser version or water, oil, or alcohol.

If the surface of the wall is already very uneven, then the mixture will need to be applied in a thick layer. Here the rule will come to the rescue - both wood and metal will do.

Of course, you can not do without spatulas of various sizes. In hard-to-reach places, you will need small spatulas, and in spacious areas - large ones.

Brushes or rollers are also very important tools needed when puttying walls for wallpaper. With their help, a special deep penetration primer will be applied to the surface of the walls.

Do not forget about sandpaper, the so-called sandpaper (sandpaper). It is necessary to stock up on it, both fine-grained and coarse-grained. With its help, grinding, it will be necessary to bring the putty walls to the ideal.

A sandpaper clamp, or as it is also called a manual skinner, is also useful. With its help, it is much faster and more convenient to deal with grouting or grinding putty walls.

Preparing the surface of the walls for putty

The process of preparing walls for applying putty can be divided into the following stages:

• Removing a layer of whitewash from the walls. Do not be surprised, many people still have a greasy layer of whitewash from Soviet times on the walls. To make it go away better, you need to moisten it with water, and after a while just wipe it off with a large machine sponge, finish off hard-to-remove places with a spatula or scraper.

• Cleaning the surface of the walls from the old layer of wallpaper. Here, too, moisture cannot be dispensed with; it is necessary to moisten a layer of old wallpaper with plenty of warm water, walking over it with a moistened roller. You can make small notches on the wallpaper so that they absorb water faster with something sharp. Next, after waiting a bit, remove the wallpaper with a large spatula or scraper, starting from the joints.

• Removing the old layer of paint. Here you can simply scrape the paint mechanically, but this is very laborious and time consuming. Heat treatment is considered the most correct solution, i.e. heating the surface of the walls with old paint with a gas burner or hair dryer. After heating, the paint swells and is easily removed with a scraper or spatula.

• Wall primer. Priming mixtures are very important - they create a dense film, the adhesion of subsequent finishing materials to which is very reliable. Also, primed walls are less susceptible to all sorts of fungi and dampness.

After the high-quality implementation of all these preparatory stages, your walls are completely ready for applying putty.

Working with starting wall putty: highlights

The main points, when starting puttying the walls under the wallpaper, which you need to remember and observe, are the following:

• To avoid cracking of the solution after drying, each layer of the starting putty must be applied carefully, not thicker than 3 mm each.

• The base of the walls for the starting putty must be necessarily primed with high quality in advance, only in this way the adhesion will be as strong as possible.

• Rough putty will sit even stronger if you use a paint grid under it. Thanks to it, rather large wall defects can be covered during puttying. Puttying on the grid is very easy on your own, besides, thanks to the paint grid, the putty is saved and its consumption is reduced.

• A very smooth surface is contraindicated for starting putty, for example, drywall, which has a very even structure. You can immediately apply the finishing layer of putty on it, the starting one will hold less firmly, because. she likes a more porous surface structure.

• After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so each subsequent layer will be most reliably bonded to the previous one.

After applying each layer of starting putty, it is imperative to prime the resulting layer, so each subsequent layer will be most reliably bonded to the previous one.

Self-putty walls on lighthouses under the wallpaper

When puttying walls on lighthouses with your own hands under wallpaper, these very beacons can be metal profiles, most often used for fixing drywall sheets, as well as any other convenient wooden or metal slats.

Initially, one rail is placed at the beginning and at the end of the wall, using a building level for accuracy - it can be either laser, water, or alcohol.

The slats themselves can be attached to the wall both with the help of dowels with self-tapping screws, and using a mixture of gypsum, which, after hardening, holds the beacons quite securely.

Further, between the installed beacons, they pull the most ordinary rope, or any other thread available in the household. After that, a control check is again made by the building level of the correctness of the resulting structure for puttying the walls.

Then, intermediate beacons are installed, at a distance of the length of the rule. It is on them that the rule will go, leveling the putty from the bottom up.

When self-puttying the walls along the beacons, the starting putty is also used, each subsequent applied layer of which must be thoroughly primed with a deep penetration primer.

Do-it-yourself finishing putty on the walls under the wallpaper: instructions with a photo

It is not so difficult to make finishing wall putty with your own hands under the wallpaper. If you coped with the starting putty, then the finishing one will definitely not give you any trouble and difficulties.

All work during finishing puttying is, in principle, similar to work during starting puttying of walls, with the exception of one point - each subsequent layer of finishing putty should not be thicker than 2 mm, in contrast to 3 mm when starting puttying.

The main condition for starting the finishing putty is a well-prepared wall surface, i.e. all possible remnants of the starting mixture on the surface of the walls should be removed with a wide iron spatula, and the wall itself should be sanded and primed with high quality.

The ideal result when finishing puttying the walls can be achieved using several carriers with powerful light bulbs. By directing streams of light from several sides at the same time, it is possible to understand from the resulting shadows where the most uneven areas are.

And vice versa, if the shadows are not formed at all, then the work on finishing putty can be considered perfectly done. Next, you need to minimally clean the surface with a fine-grained sandpaper and apply a primer.

How to properly apply putty on the walls with your own hands - the technology of applying the solution under the wallpaper

In order to properly apply putty on the walls yourself before sticking wallpaper, you need to follow certain rules:

• It is necessary to use in the process of puttying the walls under the wallpaper not one spatula, but two. One should be large and wide, the other small and comfortable. It is best to use a stainless steel spatula.

• Due to the use of two spatulas, there is a significant savings in the leveling mortar, because. the remains of the mixture from a large spatula, when applied, are selected with a small one, and are again put into action.

• The direction of movement of the hand with the spatula should be cruciform, i.e. after applying the layer from bottom to top, first gently turn to the left, then once again go over the same place with a spatula, only turning to the right. With such cross-puttying, the surface of the walls is perfectly smooth as a result.

The leveling mixture must be applied with light, but at the same time smooth hand movements, preferably in one go. When applying the spatula, it is necessary to hold it slightly at an angle (from 60 to 80 degrees, depending on the thickness of the required layer), so that the leveling mixture is evenly distributed over the wall.

The most common mistakes when puttying walls for wallpaper with your own hands

Here is a list of those mistakes that are most common when puttying walls for wallpaper:

• After applying the starting layer of putty, most people are too lazy not only to sand, but simply walk on it with at least a wide spatula to knock off the remnants of the hardened mixture, then when applying the finish layer, this will all manifest itself.

• Lack of priming of the starting layer of putty. Again, mostly due to laziness. Everyone thinks and so it will ride.

• No need to start puttying the walls from the corner. As a rule, it is the corners that are the most crooked places on your walls. You need to step back a little from them and start puttying on a flat wall surface. Corners must be displayed at the very end.

• Dirty container for mixing the solution. Everything superfluous that is in an unclean container after mixing the solution will stretch along the wall during application, and leave traces behind it.

• Also, various debris particles can get into the solution when kneading from a poorly cleaned mixer - a perforator nozzle or a drill to stir the mixture.

• Very thin solution. Such a mixture will simply flow down the wall. The consistency is considered ideal, similar to thick sour cream.

• Damaged or bent spatula. If a wide spatula has obvious damage, then you should not use it. You cannot achieve a perfectly flat surface with such a spatula.

Step-by-step and understandable instructions for self-puttying the walls under the wallpaper

For the correct independent performance of work on puttying the walls under the wallpaper, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

• Wall surface preparation. At this stage, it is necessary to remove everything superfluous from the walls - old paint, wallpaper, any irregularities.

• After the procedure for removing all unnecessary items, it is necessary to prime the walls with a deep penetration primer.

• Next comes the application of the starting layer of putty. The maximum thickness of the applied mortar during the initial puttying of the walls should not exceed 1.5 cm. The applied mortar may consist of many layers, but in total it is not necessary to go beyond the thickness indicated above.

• If another layer of putty is required to completely level the walls, then it is best to reinforce it with a reinforcing mesh or paint mesh. The previous layer of putty is primed, after drying, a little mixture is applied to it, on which the paint grid is attached. Further, on top of it, the necessary leveling layer of putty is applied.

• Finishing corners, both external and internal. These corners can be brought when puttying with a special coal spatula, or with an ordinary wide one.

• Next comes the finishing plastering of the walls. Before it starts again, the previous layers must be primed and cleaned. The finishing putty is applied in the same way as the starting putty, only with a smaller layer - up to 2 mm.

As a result, the resulting putty surface is carefully polished and cleaned with emery with light circular movements.

How to putty concrete walls under the wallpaper with your own hands?

In order to properly perform puttying work for sticking wallpaper with your own hands on the concrete surface of the walls, you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

• Surface primer. With a wide roller, a deep penetration primer is carefully applied to the surface of concrete walls. After the soil has completely dried, you can safely proceed to the next step.

• Next, we pour a dry leveling mixture for puttying the walls into a clean container, take a puncher with a special mixer nozzle, and mix the mixture thoroughly until a solution consistency similar to thick sour cream is formed.

• We check the quality of the resulting mixture with a small spatula, if there are small lumps or seals, continue mixing with a construction mixer until fully cooked.

• After thorough mixing, we take out a small amount of the solution from the container with a small spatula and evenly distribute it along the entire length of the wide spatula.

• We apply a wide spatula with a leveling mixture to the surface of the concrete wall at a slight angle and begin to smoothly, without much pressure, move the spatula up to the left, then up and to the right - crosswise.

• With a small spatula, remove the remaining mixture from the large one, carefully assemble it again on the edge of the large spatula, and apply new portions of the solution evenly from the container along the remaining length.

• We continue leveling concrete walls until complete readiness.

• After drying, you can start grouting (grinding) the walls. To do this, we put sandpaper on a skinner (a special clip for sandpaper with a comfortable handle) and grind the surface of concrete walls in a circular motion to a perfect result.

Puttying brick surfaces on their own for wallpapering

There are a number of consistent rules for puttying brick walls for wallpapering with your own hands:

• Brick walls that are planned to be puttied must first be properly primed. For this, it is best to use a deep penetration primer.

• After the soil has dried, a starting solution is prepared for leveling. In finished form, it should be similar to ordinary sour cream, in its consistency.

• The finished putty solution with a large spatula is evenly distributed over the surface of the brick wall in an even layer.

• In one sitting, it is recommended to putty the entire brick wall at once, i.e. from the beginning to the end. This results in the most uniform and smooth application of the mixture.

• After the starting layer of putty has dried, a primer must be applied.

• Next, we prepare the finishing mortar for leveling brick walls, its consistency should be slightly thinner than when preparing the starting mixture, because. the finish layer will be much smaller. The finishing putty is applied according to the same principle as the starting one.

• After the puttied surface of the brick walls has completely dried, it must be sanded to a perfectly smooth result.

• At the end, you can check the thoroughness of the surface by applying the rule. If it fits completely, leaving no gaps, then we can consider the work done with a bang.

Proper application of putty on wooden walls under the wallpaper with your own hands

To properly apply putty with your own hands on wooden walls before sticking wallpaper, you must follow the following instructions:

• Wooden walls, like any other, are necessarily subjected to the priming process at the very beginning. The primer will provide the strongest adhesion of the wood surface to the putty layers. In addition, the soil protects the tree from the processes of decay, aging and the formation of fungus.

• After complete drying of the primer layer, a base (starting) putty is applied with a layer of up to 3 mm.

• The dried starting layer is polished with coarse-grained sandpaper in a circular motion without strong pressure (it is best to use a manual skinner - an emery clip).

• Further, on top of the polished base layer of putty, a deep penetration primer is applied with a large roller, and in the corners of the room with a paint brush.

• Next, one or two (if necessary) layers of finishing mortar are applied to the dried primed base layer, each with a thickness of not more than 2 mm.

• At the end of all the manipulations done, the finishing layer of putty is rubbed with sandpaper and primed well at last.

• After the surface has dried, you can safely proceed to sticking wallpaper on wooden puttied walls.

Do-it-yourself professional plasterboard putty under the wallpaper

It is necessary to putty plasterboard walls for wallpapering for three reasons:

• One day, wallpaper pasted directly on drywall will become obsolete morally or physically. Here it’s just not possible to peel them off - along with the old wallpaper, a layer of drywall will leave.

• If you have chosen a light-colored wallpaper for your interior and pasted it directly onto the drywall, be prepared to see through it all the fasteners of the drywall - dark heads of self-tapping screws, screws, etc.

• Again, if the wallpaper you have chosen for gluing is not dark, then their shade, when placed directly on the drywall sheets, will shade and fade a little.

To professionally perform wall puttying under plasterboard wallpaper with your own hands, you must adhere to the following rules:

• Be sure to prime the drywall several times before puttying, because. it absorbs soil very well.

• You can not apply the starting solution at all, it is better to immediately use the finishing mixture.

• Next, you need to properly drown all the heads of the screws in drywall so that they do not interfere with puttying.

• At the joints of drywall sheets, in order to avoid cracking, it is necessary to putty on the paint grid.

• After completion of the finishing putty, the surface is carefully rubbed and primed.

After drying, you can safely stick wallpaper on putty drywall.

How to independently make smooth corners of the walls under the wallpaper with putty?

Work on self-puttying the corners of the walls in the room, before wallpapering, is different, depending on the type of corner. As you know, there are internal and external corners.

When puttying internal corners, you first need to level the adjacent surfaces that make up these corners as much as possible. To do this, apply the mixture with a wide spatula, starting from the corner, first in one direction, then in the other.

After the mixture has dried in the corners, be sure to grind it first with coarse-grained sandpaper, then gradually reducing it with fine-grained sandpaper. Be sure to use a skinner, because. without it, work on aligning internal corners will be very complicated.

When self-puttying the outer corners of the room, it is easiest to use special metal corners that are freely available at any hardware store.

They have small holes along their entire length, into which the mixture enters during puttying, which ultimately ensures the strength of the corner structure.

They are mounted very simply - first, a little mixture is applied to the outer corner with a spatula along the entire length, then a metal corner is applied directly to the mixture, after which it is pressed, and the remnants of the protruding mixture are leveled with a spatula towards both adjacent walls.

Self-made putty from dry mortar

In order to qualitatively, and most importantly, make putty on your own, for applying to the walls for wallpapering, from ready-made dry building mixtures, you must follow the step-by-step instructions:

• In a container for mixing the solution, it is necessary to pour warm liquid with a volume of ¼ container.

• Next, you need to pour the required amount of dry mix, which is indicated by the manufacturer of the solution on the package. Be sure to read these guidelines before starting work.

• As a rule, it is desirable to make such an amount of leveling compound in order to have time to completely use it up in about 35-45 minutes. Further, the mixture will simply dry out and lose its properties.

• Using a construction mixer, thoroughly mix the solution until a homogeneous mass, which should be similar in consistency to homemade sour cream.

• The solution should not contain debris, various specks, lumps, etc.

• Then it is necessary to let the solution brew for about 15 minutes, and then again walk through it with a construction mixer.

Calculation of the required amount of putty for leveling the walls under the wallpaper

In order to make correct calculations for the required amount of putty when self-aligning the walls for wallpapering, you must have the following data:

• Number of windows and their dimensions

• Room height

• Wall Surface Condition - Porous concrete walls may require many layers of putty, while drywall walls require a minimum number of layers.

As an example, we calculate the amount of putty for a room with the following characteristics:

• Room dimensions - 2x3m

• Number of windows - 1 with dimensions 2x1.5m

• Room height - 2.5m

• Number of doors - 1 size 2x1m

• Wall surface condition - almost flat non-porous concrete surface

First of all, we calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls of the room using the formula:

P \u003d 2x (AxB + A1xB) -CxC1-DxD1

Below we will decipher the notation so that it is clear what is what:

P - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls of the room

We multiply this part of the formula (AxB + A1xB) by 2, because the walls in our room are paired, i.e. two in parallel.

A and A1 - the width and length of the room

B - the height of the room

C and C1 - the width and height of the window opening

D and D1 - the height and width of the doorway

We substitute our data into the formula and get the following result:

P \u003d 2x (2x2.5 + 3x2.5) -2x1.5-2x1 \u003d 12.5m 2

Next, we need to calculate how much starting putty will be needed to level the walls with a layer, for example, 2mm thick. To do this, you need to pay attention to the packaging of the putty itself. There, the manufacturer clearly indicates the consumption of a mixture with a thickness of 1 mm per area of ​​1 m 2 - on average, this is 0.8 kg. Knowing this, we can perform calculations using the formula:

K = РхЕхЗ

The decoding of the indicators is as follows:

K - the amount of putty

P - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls of the room (already calculated above)

E - the estimated thickness of the layer for leveling the walls

З - the consumption of the mixture indicated by the manufacturer on the package

We substitute our data in the formula and get:

K = 12.5x2x0.8 = 20kg

As a rule, putty is sold in construction markets in bags with a volume of 25 kg, i.e. in our case, one bag will be quite enough, even with a small margin of 5 kg.

After that, we calculate the amount of finishing putty required for the final leveling of the concrete surface, for example, with a layer of 1 mm. Again, you need to refer to the manufacturer's recommendations for the consumption of the mixture on the package - on average, for finishing putty it is 1 kg per 1 m 2 with a 1 mm layer. The finishing putty is slightly denser in structure than the starting putty, which is why the values ​​are different.

We substitute our values ​​into the same formula (K = PxEx3) and get the following results:

K \u003d 12.5x1x1 \u003d 12.5 kg

In this case, it is most likely more profitable to buy not a whole bag of finishing putty, but to take it by weight with a margin of 14 kg. This should be enough.

If you plan to apply the finishing putty in several layers, then you need to multiply the result obtained by the formula by the desired number of layers.

How to calculate the amount of primer needed when puttying walls for wallpaper?

When working on puttying walls for wallpapering in the future, you can’t do without primers, which are sold in plastic and other containers of various sizes.

They come ready-made and do not require any manipulations for preparation. Simply shake the container with a primer well before use, and feel free to use it.

For most people, when self-puttying the walls under the wallpaper, the question arises - how much primer to buy, so that there is probably enough and there is not too much left over?

All this can be approximately calculated independently. For calculations, we need the following data:

• Room dimensions - length and width

• Number of windows and their dimensions

• Room height

• Number of doors and their dimensions

For example, we calculate the required amount of primer in 2 layers for the same room, for which the amount of necessary starting and finishing putty was calculated above.

The formula for calculating the required amount of primer is as follows:

G = RxLxM

The decoding of the designations is as follows:

G - the required amount of primer

P - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls of the room

L - primer consumption indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer

M - the number of intended layers of primer application

G \u003d 12.5x0.2x2 \u003d 5l

As a result, it turns out that 5 liters of primer will be quite enough for our premises, for high-quality preparation for puttying.

What is the best primer to use when puttying walls under wallpaper?

In order to choose the best primer for self-puttying walls for wallpaper, you need to understand what it generally happens and how it differs from each other. That is why we will briefly go over the types, characteristics and properties of various primers:

• Primer with color pigments (pigmented). Working with such a primer is a pleasure. You can immediately see which areas are poorly primed and which are sufficient.

• Primer with mineral additives (mineral). It contains multiple mineral chemicals that are good for your walls. It protects very well against the appearance of fungal infections.

• Primer with antiseptic effect (antiseptic primer). Great for wet areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, etc. It does a very good job of preventing mold and mildew.

• Acrylic primer. This is the most common type of primer used for all types of premises. In other words, it is universal.

After a little understanding of the types of solutions for priming walls for wallpapering, we can conclude that the best and most versatile primer for use under wallpaper is an acrylic primer. You won't go wrong choosing her.

Are plastered walls harmful to health?

Modern types of putties for leveling walls for wallpaper, like most building mixtures, consist of a number of chemical elements, with the help of which the necessary viscosity, good adhesion, elasticity and elasticity are formed.

Many people are interested in the question - will particles and vapors of these same chemical auxiliary elements that are part of building dry mixes for puttying walls harm the respiratory and other organs, as well as the skin, if you inhale and touch them during the puttying process itself and during dry walls?

If the manufacturer of mixtures is a large and serious manufacturer who respects himself and other people, then his products are certainly subject to the necessary quality certification and do absolutely no harm to the health of people using them.

Moreover, certified putty is not only harmless to people, but it also does not harm the environment.

Therefore, it is best to purchase building mixtures for wall putty in large retail outlets, and always check for the necessary quality certificates. Certified putty and walls puttied with it will definitely not harm your health and the health of your loved ones.

Video tutorial: do-it-yourself wall putty for wallpaper

In conclusion of this article, I would like to state that priming and puttying the walls under the wallpaper with your own hands are quite feasible tasks. It is better not to neglect these procedures. Of course, you can stick wallpaper without putty and primer, but how long they will last in this case is unknown. Therefore, do everything according to the mind, but according to the instructions. Great luck!

You started to repair and decided to putty the walls. But you don’t know at all where to start, what material to choose, and in general the whole process is shrouded in mystery and darkness. First, let's figure out what putty is, and why it is needed.

The difference between plaster and putty

Starting plaster is a coarse powdered mixture that builders use to level walls. Before plastering, a measurement is made using a level and the degree of deviation of the wall from the ideal vertical is revealed. In other words, this is done so that the wall is even. The maximum thickness of the superimposed layer is about 5 cm. After drying, such a mixture has roughness.

Putty - a powder used after plastering. Hence the name - finishing putty. It is plastic, makes the wall smooth. It can be applied with a maximum layer of 1-2 mm (and more will not work). Finishing putty fills in small irregularities in the plaster, preparing it for painting or wallpaper.

What putty is better for walls

Putty is available both in paper bags in the form of a powder, and in the form of a ready-made mixture in plastic buckets. It is hardly possible to say which one is better, since this can only be understood from experience. The only difference is that the finished putty is already ready, and you cannot adjust its density.

Therefore, for starters, it is better to use a powdered composition, at the same time, learn from your own experience how to dilute the mixture.

Depending on the composition, several types of putty are distinguished: gypsum, cement and polymer.

• Cement putty consists of sand and cement. Such a composition perfectly tolerates moisture, but does not have plasticity. This means that cracks may appear over time. The surface after drying will be rough, so it is necessary to grind. But it is great for outdoor work. She is not afraid of rain and snow.
• Gypsum putty. If you are going to use gypsum putty, be prepared for the fact that it dries very quickly, so do not knead a lot. As it dries, a stone will appear in the bucket instead of putty.
• Polymer putty has high elasticity and stretches well. It can be used for both outdoor and indoor work. With this composition, you can achieve a perfectly smooth surface, but it is not cheap.

When choosing putty, it is important to consider what will be on the walls. Gypsum-based putty consists of many small grains that are visible after the surface has dried. Also, you can see characteristic stains due to certain properties of gypsum. Gypsum putty is beige, gray and even pink. If you try to paint it, for example, white, you will have to apply several layers. Such putty is difficult to stain in lighter colors. But it is ideal for wallpaper.

The adhesive applied to the wall helps to soak the composition. Because of this, the wallpaper may not adhere well to the wall and stick in pieces. Wet wallpaper is problematic to cut from the bottom and top. Gypsum putty is not soaked with moisture as much as polymer putty. And for painting it is better to use polymer putty. As a rule, it is white in color, soft in texture and looks perfectly smooth on the wall.

Is it possible to putty the walls yourself

Puttying the walls with your own hands is possible, but requires some practice. The first knowledge can be obtained by watching a video or watching how experts do it. Of course, at first it will not work out very well. But there is also a consolation point: you can always count on polishing. Therefore, if it does not immediately turn out perfectly smooth, stripes and stains form, these defects will be hidden by sandpaper.

What tools are required

In order not to run around in search of the necessary thing in the midst of work, it is better to prepare everything right away.

• drill with mixer;
• plastic container;
• latex gloves;
• roller with a long handle;
• narrow spatula (5-7 cm);
• wide spatula (25-35 cm);
• sickle;
• respirator;
• ladder (or table);
• work clothes;
• newspapers, rags, polyethylene.

If plaster is applied to the walls, then it is better to use a brush for priming. Since the roller will not be able to effectively treat the surface. We choose the width of the spatula ourselves. The standard width is 35 cm, but for a beginner it is better to use a narrower one, as they are easier to work with. Drill mixer - a special nozzle for mixing the composition. It happens in different forms, it doesn’t matter much. Ideally, you can use a large bucket of water-based paint as a container. It does not break under the influence of a drill.

Preparing walls for finishing putty

First you need to free the room from the furniture. What you can bear, bear. Dust from this process cannot be avoided. The floor must be covered with polyethylene or newspapers. The more surface you cover, the better.

Why prime the walls

If the room was too dusty, clean the walls with a wet broom. In order for the putty to adhere well to the walls, they must first be primed. Primer is a special liquid. After it dries, a microfilm of adhesive is formed on the walls. The walls are completely degreased, cleaned and devoid of dust, so that the putty will not fall off in the future. Pour the primer into a plastic container and dilute with water. The concentration is marked on the bottle. Next, using a roller with a long handle, we prime the walls. This process is similar to ordinary painting, the main thing is to ensure that the walls are completely primed. This is easy to guess from the wet stains on the wall.

Some moments

Puttying the walls for wallpaper with your own hands is easier than for painting. Wallpaper will hide small defects and shortcomings. But you need to make sure that there are no previous wallpapers left on the wall (if any). Because under the influence of the primer, they will get wet and will stick to the putty.

The easiest way is to putty and primer GKL (plasterboard sheets). There are no special recommendations for this, just drive the roller from top to bottom. Whatever the surface, it is better to prime it separately with a narrow brush near the ceiling, floor and sides, since the roller in these places does not reach the end.

Puttying the walls after plastering is a more laborious process. Therefore, it is necessary to prime very high quality. To do this, it is better to use a brush to fill in all the microcracks and cavities.

What primer to choose

The primer is used to create an adhesive layer on the surface, which contributes to the favorable adhesion of the composition to the wall. When choosing a primer, you need to pay attention to the room. If it is wet, it is better to choose a primer with an antibacterial effect that counteracts the formation of mold.

• Alkyd primer has powerful properties, but does not penetrate into the material. It should not be used for plaster, putty and plasterboard. It is suitable for wood and iron, as it has an anti-corrosion effect. In addition, such a primer creates a film on the treated surface, due to which the material does not breathe.
• Latex primer is suitable for almost any surface. This is ideal in the case of plaster and crumbling surfaces. It is very moisture resistant, water resistant and elastic. But it has such properties due to the addition of synthetic substances to it, so it will not suit connoisseurs of environmentally friendly products.
• Acrylic primer is best for the home. It does not have a strong odor, dries quickly and is easy to use. The thick composition is diluted with water to the desired consistency and applied to the wall. This primer can be used on any surface. And its price will pleasantly surprise you.
• A deep penetration primer is used in cases where the surface is free-flowing, loose and not solid enough. It can be old plaster, wood, or just drywall with crumbling corners. Such a primer penetrates deep into the material, giving it strength and water resistance, which is especially important in wet areas.

Additional preparation of GCR for primer

The joints between drywall sheets contain slots and recesses. To eliminate irregularities in these places, it is better to use plaster. Due to the coarser composition, it will quickly level the surface. But it is not enough just to hold a spatula. At the junction, after the plaster dries, a crack forms, since there is nothing to hold on to the composition in the area of ​​​​the gap. To prevent this from happening, we use a sickle. Serpyanka is a mesh tape on a roll, similar to gauze. It comes in different widths and has a sticky surface on one side, so it can be easily glued to the joints. After gluing the sickle, we apply a layer of plaster from the bottom up. We make sure that it does not move and, if necessary, correct it. Drying time 2-3 hours. After that, we remove small stony particles with sandpaper. The surface is now ready for priming.

Finishing wall putty. Technology

After the primer has dried, the surface is ready for applying the finishing putty. To prepare the composition, we take a plastic bucket and pour a small amount of water there, less than half. To begin with, it is better to make a little composition to fill your hand. Then pour a little putty there, while stirring with a mixer. The consistency should be slightly less liquid than thick sour cream. We achieve the uniformity of the composition, the complete absence of lumps, otherwise balls with dry powder will form on the wall. The mixture should not roll off the spatula. If this happens, then it is too watery. It is very difficult to work with such a composition.

We proceed directly to puttying. We have two spatulas in our hands: a large one and a small one. Please note: the spatula does not have absolute evenness. In one direction it is curved more than in the other. It is necessary to define the "rounded" side. If you putty another, stripes will remain on the surface.

Speaking of spatulas, it is worth noting that you need to choose stainless materials. Otherwise, during subsequent puttying, rusty stains will remain on the wall. We collect a little composition on a small spatula and transfer it to a large one, distributing it evenly over the entire surface. Starting from the window, we begin to putty the wall, creating a non-translucent layer of 1-2 mm. If you make the layer too thick, it will be more difficult to smooth out, and cracks may form when it dries. When working with plasterboard, the direction of movement of the spatula does not matter, since the surface is smooth. On a plastered wall, dried large particles have their own direction. Therefore, we simply repeat it when puttying. This will become clear as you work.

Important: the uniformity and smoothness of the putty is very dependent on lighting. Flaws that are not visible in daylight may become visible when illuminated with electric light.

Puttying the walls for painting implies a uniform layer of the composition without gaps. If in some place the layer is thinner, the paint will have a different shade. The difference between putty under the wallpaper is that the wallpaper will hide small errors.

In the process of work, various stripes and stains will appear on the wall. We level the situation as best we can. But do not forget that there is also a saving polishing.

wall sanding

Wall grinding is used to eliminate small bumps, stripes and tubercles. This process can be either manual or mechanized.

For sanding the walls, ordinary sandpaper is used. It differs in particle size. The smaller the skin number, the rougher its surface. For finishing putty, the skin of larger numbers is suitable. If large scratches remain on the wall, then the skin should be taken smaller.

In addition to sandpaper, a diamond mesh is also used. It differs in the size of the cells, and, unlike the skin, it is not clogged with putty. It can be used both manually and using a special holder.

Grinding itself is necessary to eliminate the remaining defects, even a beginner can handle it. This process is very dusty, so be sure to wear a respirator. Grinding is done in a circular motion. If sanded in one direction, noticeable scratches form.

After grinding, the surface must be primed again, as a large amount of white dust will remain on it. Wait for it to dry and proceed with further work. Do-it-yourself wall putty for beginners can seem like a time-consuming and complicated process. In fact, this is not so, you just have to start.

Today we will consider in detail how to apply putty on the wall. After all, a finishing material will be applied to this layer, and the surface must be prepared with high quality.
For example, after applying paint, all errors will be visible. Therefore, the plane must be even and smooth. When working, you must immediately determine how many layers of putty you need to apply.
After all, a very large layer is not immediately applied, it will be necessary to do this work in several stages. Also in the video in this article you can watch the whole process and then do everything yourself.

How to properly apply the finishing putty on the wall, now we will consider in more detail. Let's go through all the points.
Not only the quality of the coating, but also its appearance and durability will completely depend on the correct execution of this work. Before starting work, it is worth looking at the photo of the materials, you must initially choose the final type of finish according to the interior of the room.

Used material for finishing putty

For self-puttying the walls, you will need the following set of tools.

Drill with mixer attachment	In most cases, homeowners purchase dry putty and prepare it immediately before work. To stir the mixture with water, you will need to use a special mixer that will get rid of lumps in the mixture. When using such a mixer, you can get a homogeneous mixture that will be of high quality.
Spatulas of various sizes	For this work, you will have to use at least two spatulas - one small and the second large with a size of 50 centimeters. A small spatula is necessary for working in hard-to-reach places, which improves the quality of the application of the mixture.
Primer brushes and rollers	Many homeowners skip the wall priming step to save money. However, this is not recommended, as the primer improves the strength of the finishing materials and improves the adhesion of the putty to the wall. To work with uneven walls, when it is necessary to apply putty in a thick layer, use a rule that will allow you to easily level the putty on a large wall plane.
Laser or water level	In the process of work, it is necessary to align the walls, and a level is used to control this work. As a rule, before proceeding directly to work, special beacons are mounted, on which the finishing putty is subsequently leveled using the rule.
Sandpaper	To obtain a perfectly smooth surface of the putty wall, it is necessary to use sandpaper, which is used after the putty has dried (see How to sand the walls after putty and how to do it correctly). To obtain ideal results, we recommend using a sandpaper with an index of 240. The smallest skins are recommended when applying the finishing putty. Whereas when laying the starting putty, coarse skins are used. To simplify the sanding of the walls, you can use a manual skinner, which can significantly simplify and improve the quality of this stage of work.
Empty container	Also, for work, you will need a container of 10 - 20 liters, in which we will stir the putty.

Choosing a putty for working with walls

How to properly apply putty on the walls is decided after choosing the material. Depending on its composition, putty is usually divided into cement, polymer and gypsum.
Let us consider in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each type of putty:

• One of the advantages of using gypsum putties is the affordable cost and ease of leveling. Of the shortcomings, we can note only mediocre resistance to moisture, which somewhat limits the scope of the use of gypsum putty.
• Cement putty, on the contrary, perfectly withstands prolonged exposure to moisture, but is subject to shrinkage.
• Polymer putty does not shrink and has excellent moisture resistance. With the help of this finishing material, walls of various structures can be easily processed. The disadvantage of polymer putty is its rather high cost.

All putties, depending on the scope of their application, can be divided into decorative, starting and leveling. Also in recent years, universal putties have become popular.

• Leveling starter putties are distinguished by their large grain size, moisture resistance and excellent strength indicators. It is recommended to use this putty immediately after applying the plaster. The thickness of the layer can vary from 3 to 20 millimeters. The thickness depends on the general condition of the treated surface.
• To ensure maximum durability of the treated surface, it is recommended to apply a finishing putty to the leveling mixture. This will give the surface a perfectly smooth appearance.
  Processing with finishing putty is not difficult and is performed using emery skins. The application layer is usually from 3 to 5 millimeters.
• Universal putties have the characteristics of a leveling mixture and decorative putties. They have a fairly high cost, but at the same time they can significantly simplify the work performed. Universal putties are recommended for use when working with walls that do not have significant flaws.
• In specialized stores, you can easily purchase both ready-to-use mixtures and dry putties, which are distinguished by their affordable cost, ease of use and long shelf life.
• Ready-made putties are easy to use, since you do not need to use a mixer, and the mixture already has a homogeneous structure. Working time is saved, and when performing repair work, there is practically no dust.
  At the same time, it must be borne in mind that prepared finishing putties have a slightly higher cost than dry ones. You should also take into account the fact that ready-made putties shrink slightly, so they must be applied in a large layer.
  The shelf life of finished putties is several months, so they must be quickly used in repair work.

Attention: When choosing a material, you should first of all think about the environment in which the coating will be located. If there is high humidity in the room. Then, when buying, the instructions for the material should be studied. It must be moisture resistant.

Preparing the walls for work

When applying putty, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the walls:

We prepare the walls for puttying

• The surface must be absolutely clean, so any stains of soot, paint or grease must be removed. In the event that traces of peeling plaster are found, it is necessary to carry out deep surface preparation.
  It is also not recommended to start work in the presence of frozen sections of the walls, which worsens the quality of the applied putty.
• Before starting repair work, it is required to cover the wall with a primer. This will ensure maximum adhesion of the wall and putty mortar. The walls are primed with a small roller, which allows you to evenly apply the primer solution. One coat of primer is sufficient.

In specialized stores, you can purchase starting, lighthouse or finishing putty. Consider the scope of use of each of the materials.

Starting putty

As a starting putty, a coarse material with a large grain size is used. As a rule, there are no difficulties with finding and buying such material.

We apply the starting putty

• Starting putty is designed to work with walls that have significant differences and numerous defects. Depending on the specific conditions, the thickness of the starting putty layer can be 1.5 centimeters.
• You can apply the material in several layers, you just need to wait for the complete drying of the previous layer.
• For the maximum quality of the work carried out, special painting grids are used, which allow you to firmly fix the putty on the surface of the walls and prevent the material from crumbling and exfoliating in the future. The walls, when using a paint grid, are puttied solid. The surface becomes even, which reduces the complexity of subsequent surface treatment.

Lighthouse wall putty

The difference in the use of this type of putty is the need to use beacons, which can be used as a metal, gypsum or wooden lath.

Apply lighthouse putty

• All lighthouses are set according to the level and attached to the walls with a plaster mixture. Surface treatment with finishing putty can only be started after the complete hardening of the gypsum fixation of the beacons.
• Spatulas and a long rule can be used to apply putty, which makes it easier to work with large walls.
• To control the quality of the work performed, it is necessary to use the level

Finishing wall putty

After applying the starting or lighthouse mixture, they begin to perform the finishing putty.

Apply the finish in a thin layer

Attention: This work is carried out using special compositions that have a minimum grain size, which, after appropriate processing, allows you to get a perfectly smooth surface of the walls.

• It is necessary to apply the finishing putty with a minimum layer, which will ensure a spectacular appearance of the coating and save costs for repair work.
• To reduce material consumption, it is necessary to level the surface even when applying the starting putty, which will reduce the complexity of the work performed. In this case, you will be relieved of the need for a long and laborious sanding procedure.

Puttying cracks in the walls

To eliminate existing cracks in the walls, it is recommended to use special gypsum putties.

This material is flexible and easy to work with.

• One of the features of gypsum plasters is their hardening time and the need for pre-treatment of surfaces before applying the plaster.
• To improve adhesion, it is recommended to scratch existing cracks with a sharp object, which will subsequently improve adhesion to gypsum plaster.
• You can also use a primer, and then putty cracks.

Attention: The primer of the walls must be done necessarily. Then the adhesion of the surfaces will increase significantly and this will increase the life of the finish.

Putty application technology

If you use dry putty, you must prepare it in full accordance with the instructions.
The sequence of preparation of putty:

• Pour a small amount of water into the used container.
• Stir the mixture with a spatula.
• Next, you will need a drill with a mixer attachment, with which we will mix the mixture and gradually add water.

Attention: According to its consistency, the prepared mortar should be elastic and stick to the spatula.

• We apply the prepared starting putty to the walls. This is easiest to do with a large spatula.
• It is necessary to apply the mixture in medium portions, evenly distributing it over the surface.
• It is necessary to hold the spatula at an angle of 30 degrees to the surface.
• To avoid the appearance of bumps and transitions, subsequent layers must be applied with an overlap.
• In the event that there are certain defects when applying the starting putty, they can be eliminated by using the finishing material.
• For the best possible application of putty in the corners, it is recommended to use a small angled spatula. With this angled spatula, you can accurately level the applied mixture in hard-to-reach places.

Attention: Remember that the putty dries after a day, so work can be started 24 hours after applying the previous layer. The thickness of the starting putty layer should be about 2 centimeters.

• Before proceeding with further wall decoration, it is necessary to wait for the material to dry completely. It takes about 12 hours for the finishing putty to dry.
  Only after that you can start grinding the surface with sandpaper. Sanding can also be done using a special grinder, which simplifies this work.

Attention: If you plan to apply several layers of putty, it is necessary to treat the surface with a primer before applying each new layer.

How to putty walls for wallpapering or painting

Finishing putty how to apply before wallpapering, now we'll talk. The walls must be leveled with two layers of putty.
If the walls have significant differences, it is recommended to use three or more layers of material:

• If it is planned to paint the walls, they must be leveled not only with the help of starting plaster, but also with finishing.
• Treat the surface with the sandpaper as carefully and accurately as possible, which will allow you to get rid of the existing surface imperfections.

Putty procedure:

• Apply a thin first layer of leveling putty.
• Next, two or three more layers of putty are applied.
• Wait about a day for the material to dry.
• A finishing putty is applied, which allows you to eliminate minor defects.
• After the putty has dried, rub the wall with sandpaper.

Now you know how to apply finishing putty on the walls. The price of the material is not so high, but everything must be done with high quality. Then the coating will please you and not change for a long time.

Everyone who at least once faced with the issues of repair work is familiar with the puttying process. In this way, walls, wooden parts, and many other surfaces are finished. No fine finish is possible without preliminary puttying of the surface. It is putty that will help make the wall perfect - without roughness, cracks, bumps and other flaws. There are many varieties of this material - in addition to different purposes, there are also different types of putties, according to their appearance and the result obtained. Which one to choose and how to use - let's figure it out together.

Why do you need to putty walls?

Sometimes it happens that, having removed the old wallpaper, it turns out that the walls are not so uneven. Often there is such a gift from builders as a slab on which there are no dents or cracks and it seems that there is simply no need to putty it. Actually this is a delusion! There are two types of puttying work, directly as preparatory work:

In this case, the preparation of the walls is exactly what is needed to align them if they are crooked, especially for corners, arches and similar joints. For such processing, not the most expensive putties are usually used, since there is no need to obtain an ideal appearance - the finished wall will still be covered with wallpaper from above. After the putty is applied and completely dry, such surfaces are usually cleaned with sandpaper to obtain a smooth white surface. Its roughness will even be an additional adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall.

This is a more painstaking and clean type of putty work. Firstly, such a surface must be truly perfect, without scratches, cracks and similar defects. Secondly, even microscopic cracks should be absent, since it is precisely because of them that the destruction of the paint layer may occur in the future. This will completely spoil the quality of the coating and its appearance.

To perform high-quality putty for painting, the multi-layer coating technology will be correct. In this case, various types of putties are used, which are applied sequentially one after another, as well as additional reinforcing agents - reinforcement with fiberglass, non-woven fabric and similar materials specially designed for this.

It is advisable to use the same type of putty for surfaces that are in plain sight - window slopes, ceilings, and so on.

What are putties?

Even with a huge abundance of various putties on store shelves, in fact, there are not many types of this material. According to their purpose, they are divided into two groups:

• Starting

As the name implies, it is necessary for the initial alignment of the walls, subject to their unevenness. They are made from chalk, a gypsum component and a filler of a fairly large fraction - usually crushed perlite or pumice.

Starting putties are used for rough leveling of surfaces of walls, ceilings or slopes and can be applied in a thick layer. Due to its composition, this material hardens quickly, which allows you to treat the surface layer by layer, without waiting for a long drying of the previous layer.

These putties are sold dry, packaged in bags - for use they must be diluted in the right amount of clean water. Usually, breeding recommendations are indicated on the packaging and may differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, therefore, you need to approach this process responsibly.

Ready-to-use putties are sold in buckets of various sizes, but still, even the largest of them are not sufficient for finishing large areas. It is advantageous to take such a putty "for testing" - in order to understand whether this type of material of this particular manufacturer is suitable for you, you can buy putty in a bucket, and then, for a complete repair of the entire area, purchase the same dry form.

Starting putties can also, if necessary, be reinforced with mesh or fiber. Such strengthening is especially important in the presence of strong defects near the walls, a weak foundation, or in new buildings, when the shrinkage of the building has not yet been completed.

• Finishing

Designed for surface finishing. Such a putty works on an already dried starting putty. It is always applied in a thin layer - the maximum it can be up to three millimeters. The dried finishing putty forms a dense hard layer without cracks and chips.

Finishing putties are commercially available in two forms: dry and ready-to-use. Dry mix - diluted in water, similarly to the starter, in accordance with the instructions on the package. It is important to thoroughly stir the powder to the desired consistency, so that no lumps remain. For high-quality mixing, it is most convenient to use a special construction mixer, which is driven by a conventional perforator. Ready putty from dry powder cannot be stored for a long time, as it quickly hardens upon contact with open air.

Finishing putties, ready to use, are sold in buckets of various sizes. This is very convenient, in terms of the fact that, if necessary, you can purchase a small amount of the product. Also, ready-made putty is convenient in that it can be used immediately after opening the package, however, it is still desirable to mix it - this may be necessary, since during storage it can delaminate and become heterogeneous.

Types of putties

In addition to separating the material according to its intended purpose - starting and finishing, putties also amaze with their diversity in varieties. Here the type of putty is determined by the feedstock from which it is made. In fact, modern manufacturers have in their arsenal a wide range of initial components for putties. What exactly are they and what is their difference? The main three types of putties used in the construction market can be described as follows:

As the name implies, it is made on the basis of gypsum. This product is distinguished, firstly, by its dazzling whiteness, and secondly, by its plasticity. Also important is the property of gypsum to absorb and release moisture when interacting with the surrounding air. Walls treated with gypsum putty can create a favorable microclimate in the room, thanks to the proper circulation of moisture.

Naturally, this type of putty is only suitable for interior work, since gypsum does not perform well in outdoor work. Ideally, it is suitable for work on - since these materials have a common structure.

It is easier to putty a plasterboard wall than usual, since it does not need to be leveled - just seal the seams and the places where the sheets are attached. Gypsum putty is produced both starting and finishing.

It is also clear that its main ingredient is cement. Accordingly, the properties of cement perfectly coexist in it: moisture resistance, immunity to temperature extremes from frost to summer heat. This putty is convenient to use both indoors and outdoors - as it is resistant to atmospheric phenomena.

For interior decoration, it can be used in conditions of high humidity and steam generation, for example, kitchen, bathroom, swimming pools and the like. The disadvantage of cement-based putty is its rough structure - this is also caused by its main component - cement. It is quite difficult to process and grind after drying. Typically, such putty is used for finishing with tiles, and similar materials that can hide a layer of plaster.

The most modern material is made from chemical raw materials, using modern equipment. It has a dense structure and a plastic consistency - suitable for leveling walls and for finishing. Acrylic putty is easy to apply, easy to sand, not prone to cracking. It is a kind of universal, because, firstly, it is suitable for treating surfaces made of various materials, and secondly, because it can be used as a starting putty and as a finishing putty, depending on the needs.

But, because of its not small cost, it is hardly advisable to apply it in a thick layer. Usually, finishing specialists prefer to apply acrylic putty in a thin layer, no more than one millimeter, thus performing the finishing touch-up of the surface.

With careful and thorough application, acrylic can look perfectly even, beautiful, even glossy. An important advantage of acrylic putty is its environmental safety.

In addition to these widely popular types, polymer putties are also on sale - they are produced on the basis of acrylates or vinyl compounds. Such products are more expensive and are universal.

Polymer mixtures are gaining popularity - at present they are used, perhaps even more often than gypsum and cement-containing ones. They are easy to use and durable in use. By type, polymer putties are divided into three main groups: acrylic, polymer cement and latex - according to the main ingredient in each of them.

1. Acrylic polymer putty- characterized by the presence of acrylic in the composition. It can be starting, finishing or universal - depending on the need and purpose of use.
2. Polymer cement putty- mainly used for leveling cement-concrete, lime and brick substrates. The main component here is cement, to which special polymer additives go. Such a putty has a plastic consistency and can be used both as a starter, for leveling, and as a finish, for final processing.
3. Latex putty- made on the basis of styrene - this is a certain type of acrylic-based latex. This type of polymer putty is ideal as a finish and is well suited for finishing various surfaces: drywall, brick, wood, concrete and others.

Polymer putties are very convenient for their special appearance - they are plastic and elastic, which makes them ideal for work. Even amateurs can create a perfectly even layer using polymer materials.

They are also convenient in that they can be applied with the thinnest layer, which is impossible for gypsum or cement putty. However, the minimum thickness does not make the putty layer less durable than those that are applied thicker. It is also important to note the strength characteristics: polymer putty is not subject to shrinkage and cracking. In addition, they are vapor-permeable, that is, they allow the walls to breathe, and are resistant to moisture and have thermal insulation properties.

Polymer putties are sold, just like other analogues, in dry or ready-to-use form. Dry mixes, as a rule, make sense to choose when it comes to finishing large volumes, and ready-made plastic mixes will help out great if you need to finish a small area.

This type of putty is presented on store shelves in three types: starting, finishing and universal. Choosing the right putty is not difficult. Material consumption is indicated on the labels - just calculate the required area for finishing.

The only drawback of polymer putties is their high cost. Unfortunately, due to the content of polymers, which simply cannot be cheap due to their cost. Of course, many of the positive characteristics of these materials fully justify their price, so when choosing a material for wall decoration, you should pay attention to polymer putties.

Types of putty application

Having decided on the type of material, it is necessary to choose the method of its application. Putty is usually applied by three traditional methods:

During mechanical application, special installations are used, with the help of which the finished mass is sprayed onto the surface of the walls. Such application is convenient, fast and high quality. But, of course, the purchase of special equipment for domestic needs is not advisable. And, as a rule, putty is applied in this way by specialists in the field of finishing work, during industrial-scale work, large volumes, and so on.

The semi-mechanical method also requires a compressor or pressure tank - in this way the putty is “splashed” onto the walls, which is also much faster than applying it manually, although slower than in the first case.

Manual putty application

Well, the most common way is to apply by hand. Since it is he who is used most often, both by professional builders and those who decide to make repairs on their own for the first time, we will consider it in more detail. For application, a ready-made putty mass is used - prepared independently from a dry powder or already purchased in a ready-to-use form.

• using a flat paint trowel and a small spatula

A small amount of putty is collected on the working surface of a flat spatula and a small trowel is applied and distributed over the wall. This method is simple and convenient even for those who have never done such work.

• putty "bloopers"

This name speaks for itself: putty is applied to the wall with a small spatula in the form of “blunders” - large spots, and then, using a long trowel, the mass is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This method allows you to complete the finish quickly, but physically harder than the previous one, since muscles will be needed to level the material with a trowel, from fifty centimeters long.

• using two spatulas: main and auxiliary

The main spatula should be about two to two and a half times longer than the auxiliary spatula. For example, spatulas with a length of 45X20 cm or 35X10 cm are well combined. The longer the main spatula, the more effort is needed to work with it.

In the process of application, with an auxiliary spatula, the putty is distributed over the main one and is already transferred to the wall with it. It is important that when distributing the mass, the pressure on the spatula is the same over the entire surface to be treated - then the material will be distributed evenly. The basic principle of applying putty: from dry to wet. That is, it is necessary to work in such a way that each subsequent finished section is connected to the previous one and they can be immediately compared with each other - then the work will be done neatly, without bumps and sagging.

Applying putty is not a difficult process, however, it requires accuracy and some skill. Starting for the first time, you can practice in places that are not too noticeable, fill your hand. When muscle memory remembers the movements of the hands, the work will go faster and better. Manual puttying is available to anyone, there are no particularly critical nuances in it.

Do-it-yourself wall putty

Many owners tend to carry out repair work on their own: this is not always caused by the desire to save on the wages of specialists. Many people like to make repairs themselves, taking into account their every wish, or simply because they like this activity. As for the puttying process, there is nothing complicated in it, you just need to purchase a high-quality putty mixture and follow the correct work technology - these two facts will allow you to get a smooth, beautiful wall, ready for further finishing.

Preparation

Before proceeding with the puttying itself, the walls must be properly prepared.

1) Remove the remains of old building materials as much as possible. Traces of varnish, paint, wallpaper - can significantly affect the quality of the finished coating, in the worst case, the remainder of the old varnish can simply fall off after the putty is completed, violating the integrity of the finished layer.

2) Carefully examine the surface for cracks, chips, irregularities. If there are any, then they must first be repaired, flush with the wall, making sure during operation that no bulges appear. After sealing the cracks, it is necessary to wait for the time required for the material to dry completely and only then proceed to the next stage.

3) Thorough cleaning of the walls and the room as a whole. There should be no dust, dirt, greasy stains - all of them must be removed, cleaned, degreased. It is advisable to vacuum the walls to remove small particles of dirt and dust as much as possible.

4) Priming surfaces. The primer must be selected based on the material from which the walls are made, and also, depending on their condition, applied in one or several layers. A primer with antifungal additives is preferred - to prevent the occurrence of mold or similar troubles. The primer should be applied with a brush - a brush or a special roller that can transfer liquid well to the wall.

This stage is important, as well-primed walls have a stronger adhesion to the putty mixture and are protected from damage by fungus. Therefore, you need to try to apply the primer as carefully as possible, without missing a single millimeter. After application, leave the primer alone until completely dry, which is at least six to eight hours, at room temperature in the room. But it is best to leave the walls to dry for a day.

Preparation of putty mixture

If you plan to putty a room, or even more than one, then ready-made putty in buckets will probably not work for you - this, although convenient, is obviously not cheap. Just for processing large areas, a dry putty mixture packaged in bags is perfect, from which you can independently prepare a ready-to-use material. This is not difficult to do, but it is important to follow the correct cooking technique:

1) In a clean, preferably plastic, container, pour one third of clean water. Water must be taken cool or even cold, as hot water accelerates the hardening of the finished putty.

2) Dry putty mixture is poured into the water. Quantitatively it is difficult to say exactly, it all depends on the manufacturer and needs. Manufacturers' recommendations and experience will help to resolve this issue.

Firstly, the proportion of water and dry component is always indicated on the packages, which will allow you to get a ready-to-use mass. Secondly, after trying the finished putty prepared according to the instructions, you may need a thicker, or, conversely, a more liquid consistency. Of course, in the process of mixing the mass, a dry product can be added, therefore, initially try not to exceed the amount indicated on the package.

3) For the next step, you will need a construction mixer. Having installed it on the perforator, it is necessary to make the initial mixing of the mixture. Its purpose is to completely moisten the dry powder with water. You need to interfere at low speeds of the tool, in slow circular motions, trying not to scatter the putty around the container.

After the initial mixing, you need to leave the mixture for five to ten minutes, this is necessary so that the water completely soaks the dry putty, and especially the lumps that it contains.

4) Mix again using the same building mixer. This time more intensive mixing is possible. After that, leave the mixture alone again to swell. Thus, it is necessary to make three to four approaches, alternating the processes of mixing and settling the finished mixture. You need to mix for about three minutes, defend - about five. Thus, gradually, the consistency will reach the desired one - medium density and high plasticity.

It is important to prepare not too much putty, as it is not stored ready-made. In this case, it is more convenient to get a smaller amount, and, if necessary, finish more. The thickening mixture is also not suitable for dilution with water and further use - since the formation of lumps in this case is simply inevitable. Therefore, thickened or completely hardened putty must be discarded, the container in which it was washed and prepared again.

Wall putty

Proper adherence to the technology of this process requires the application of putty, at least in two layers - starting, and then finishing. But in fact, there may be more layers - depending on the condition of the walls and their visible defects.

1) To apply putties, you will need two spatulas - wide and narrow. A wide spatula should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the container in which the putty is located - this is necessary so that it can fit there. The second, narrow, spatula is needed in order to distribute the putty along the entire length of the wide one, as well as to correct flaws. It can also be used to dial the product on a wide tool - here everyone develops a technique that is convenient for him.

2) The first layer is the starting putty, it is looser and can be applied in a thicker layer than the finishing one. With its help, you can hide minor wall defects - shells, small cracks. It is convenient to apply putty from the bottom up, using a wide spatula. The spatula is held by the handle with three fingers, and two - the middle and index fingers, are stops and it is convenient to adjust the pressing force on the spatula by holding it from above, by the plastic base.

The finished putty is plastic and easy to apply, it must be homogeneous and not contain lumps or other inclusions. It is necessary to apply the solution as evenly as possible, avoiding irregularities or visually noticeable strokes - a wide spatula helps a lot with this. It is desirable to work quickly, since the putty mixture hardens quite quickly and after some fifteen to twenty minutes it will be problematic to correct application errors.

3) You can continue to work only after the first layer is completely dry. If it is supposed to do a lot of layers, then at this stage it would be best to use a reinforcing mesh.

After the layer of starting putty has dried, the network must be fixed to the wall with temporary fasteners, and then a layer of finishing putty should be applied. It must be applied in such a way as to hide the mesh as much as possible, but at the same time, not too thick a layer - the maximum it should be no more than five millimeters. After this layer is applied, you should also wait for it to dry completely. If the reinforcing network is not completely covered by the first layer of putty, then another one must be applied that will hide it completely. This layer should also dry well.

4) The next stage is the application of the main layer. This is a high quality finishing putty - it is applied very thinly - a couple of millimeters, no more. It must be applied simultaneously, on the entire wall - otherwise, the transitions will be visually noticeable. This layer is not in vain the main one, it should be as even and carefully removed as possible. If, nevertheless, there are minor flaws, then after the work is completed and the putty has dried, they can be cleaned with a fine grinding mesh.

The mesh grain size should be no more than 3 mm cell, otherwise, a thin layer of the finish coating can be damaged and visually noticeable grinding marks can be left. In no case should you use cloth-based sandpaper - after such processing, noticeable traces almost always remain!

The finished surface, finished with putty, dries, depending on the temperature in the room - from 8 to 24 hours. After complete drying, further finishing work is possible.

Rating of the best putties

The modern construction market does not stand still and every year pleases consumers with new products, including putty mixtures. To date, according to the results of customer surveys, certain products are in the lead.

Starting putties

Volma Standard. This starting putty has proven itself both in Russia and abroad. Well suited for leveling surfaces, as well as for fine finishing. Suitable for plaster or cement walls. Worked best when used indoors.

Although this composition is intended for starting application, many experts note that it can also be used to obtain a finished surface, without applying a “finish”, since this putty is easily sanded and leaves no defects behind. This is a high quality material, easy to use and affordable. Among the shortcomings can be called a rather long drying time.

Founding Ecosilk. A product of domestic production, which has firmly established itself in the market of finishing materials. The putty of this brand is convenient for its plasticity, attractive appearance and, of course, a very affordable cost.

It can be applied in a not too thick layer, preferably up to 5 millimeters. Unfortunately, if this condition is not met, then after drying, cracks may appear on the finished surface.

Bolars Facade. Recognized as the best putty for facades, because of its excellent performance: frost resistance, not susceptible to precipitation. It can also be used in rooms with high vaporization. It has high resistance to mechanical damage, good vapor permeability, which allows the walls to "breathe" and creates the correct circulation of moisture in the room.

The maximum allowable layer is up to 10 millimeters, and this is without cracking. Accordingly, this plus entails a minus - a large expense. Also, some unpleasant moment is its high cost.

Finishing putties

Sheetrock SuperFinish rightfully occupies the first place among finishing products. It has the smallest grain size among putties, it is 0.03 millimeters.

This fact allows you to get a smooth, perfect surface with putty, on almost any wall - concrete, and others. Drying, this putty does not crack, again because of its fine structure - it adheres tightly to surfaces and does not peel off. All these advantages are complemented by the quite reasonable cost of the product, which makes it an excellent solution for every buyer.

By the way, until 2016, the putty bucket had a different look. Then the KG Stroy Systems Company transfers the SHEETROCK® line of ready-made putties under the umbrella brand of building materials DANOGIPS.

Knauf Rotband Pasta is a putty based on vinyl compounds. It is universal in terms of treated surfaces, suitable for concrete, gypsum boards and others, has a good adhesive ability.

Another distinctive feature: fast drying - about 5 hours. Some disadvantage is that this ready-to-use putty mixture gives a high consumption, even when applied with a thickness of about one millimeter. Also not happy and its high cost of 700 rubles.

Ceresit CT 225 is a cement-based putty. Suitable for both indoor and outdoor work. Application on cement bases is possible. Putty has excellent qualities: adhesion, moisture resistance and frost resistance.

It is popular due to the presence of special reinforcing fibers in the composition - they prevent cracking and shrinkage of the finished coating. You should also pay attention to the environmentally friendly composition. Of course, such putty is not cheap.

Universal putties

Knauf is fugen. Perfectly proved when using in rooms, in the conditions of room temperatures. As part of the gypsum-based putty, there are also polymer compounds, which made it possible to make the finished composition elastic. Good adhesive properties.

Suitable for cement or plastered walls. The list of advantages is complemented by low cost and minimal consumption. Despite the versatility, use in rooms with high humidity is not recommended, since the composition is hygroscopic.

VGT acrylic, universal. Ready for use immediately after opening the package. Suitable for warm interior spaces, without increased vaporization and moisture. It is possible to apply a thick layer - up to seven millimeters. Suitable for wood, concrete, plaster and cement surfaces. Cons: a rather large consumption, the possibility of shrinkage when the composition dries, and a rather large dustiness during subsequent processing.

UNIS BLIK. Gypsum-based putty. It is convenient because it can be applied in different layers - both thin and thick. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, the application layer can vary from half a millimeter to eight millimeters. It is also convenient and quick drying of the mixture - even with a thick layer it will be no more than seven hours.

The putty is easy to use, elastic and does not form cracks. However, there are also disadvantages: high consumption, the presence of foreign inclusions - pebbles may come across that interfere with the uniform distribution of the mass over the wall surface.

Puttying walls is an invariable attribute of any repair work. Even with smooth walls or plasterboard sheathing, it will still be necessary. Modern manufacturers of building materials daily develop and put into production new putties, trying to satisfy the most demanding customers. On the shelves of building hypermarkets there is a putty suitable for any surface, budget and application possibilities. It is only important to decide what exactly you need and make the right choice.

The preparation of walls for wallpapering can be done without finishing putty (putty), it is enough to level the walls with Rotband gypsum plaster, the surface layer of which must be smoothed with grout and a spatula. But the recommended minimum thickness of applying "Rotband" 5 mm does not allow to putty walls with small irregularities and defects. Therefore, it is necessary to putty some sections of the wall surface for wallpapering with finishing putty.

Types of putties

It should be noted that the finishing putty (putty) is a conventional name, and it is referred to as the finishing putty if the size of the filler fraction does not exceed 0.5 mm.

Depending on the material on the basis of which the putty is made, there are three types of putty: cement, gypsum and polymer. Each type of putty has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Table of classification of putties depending on the binder component
Type of putty	Purpose	Advantages	Flaws
Cement	For finishing rooms with high humidity, bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, building facades	High water resistance, low price	Slight shrinkage, possibility of cracking over time
Gypsum	For rooms with low humidity, rooms, hallways, corridors	When dried, a smooth surface is obtained without shrinkage, it seizes in no more than 2 hours, it allows applying a layer with a thickness of more than 2 mm	Not waterproof, short solution life
Polymer	For rooms with normal humidity	It has a long solution life, quickly sets, lays down well, forms an ideal surface, ready for wallpapering and painting, allows applying a layer with a thickness of 0.2 mm.	High price

The choice of putty

When repairing the entrance hall, due to the large area of ​​​​the walls (more than 60 m 2) and their complex configuration (8 external, 7 internal corners plus two transverse beams near the ceiling), painting them was the best way to obtain a high-quality wall covering. Preparing the walls for painting was not an easy task, as some of the walls were plastered with lime plaster, some were made of old plasterboard sheets glued with alabaster directly to the brick wall, and a small section of the wall was brick (the cracked drywall had to be removed).

Deviations of the walls from flatness and verticality by 0.5-5 cm were eliminated using Rotband gypsum plaster, and to prepare the surface of relatively flat sections of the walls for painting, two types of polymer finishing putty had to be used: Vetonit LR + and BOLARS Finish Super ".

Why polymer, the most expensive? Because thanks to the good viscosity and adhesion of the polymer putty, any home master can prepare the walls for painting, even without more experience.

Although both types of selected putties are intended for finishing putty, they differ significantly in technical parameters in terms of the minimum thickness of the applied layer.

Table of the main technical characteristics of plaster Vetonit LR + and BOLARS Finish Super
Technical specifications	Unit	Vetonit LR+	BOLARS Finishing Super
Material color	-	white
Binder	-	polymer glue
Water resistance	-	not waterproof
Filler material	-	limestone	marble flour
Maximum filler fraction	mm	0,3	0,2
Consumption of dry mixture at a layer thickness of 1 mm	kg/m2	1,2	1
The amount of water per 1 kg of dry mix	l	0,32-0,36	0,36-0,38
Thickness of the applied layer	mm	1-5	0,2-2
Adhesion, not less	kg/cm2		2
Usage time after mixing when stored in a closed container	hour	48	24
Drying time at 20°C		24	2
Working temperature	WITH	5 – 30
Operating temperature		5 – 40
Shelf life in unopened packaging	month	12
Packing, bags by weight	kg	5 and 25	20

Thus, the selected three types of leveling dry mix made it possible to apply a layer from 0.2 mm to 5 cm on the walls.

Preparation of finishing putty for work

You can purchase finishing putty in jars, ready-made for application to walls. But it costs 20% more, so it's more cost-effective to buy a dry mix and dilute it yourself in water as needed.

For self-preparation of putty, you need to pour cold tap water into a plastic round container of a suitable size, pour it into the water, observing the proportion, the required amount of the dry mixture. Metal containers are undesirable, since when mixed with a mixer, its blades will hit the walls with noise, the metal may rust, and rust may get into the putty.

Stir the solution with a mixer or manually until the lumps disappear and a homogeneous paste-like mass is obtained. Since the putty contains many components, and they dissolve in water at different rates, it is recommended to mix the solution again five minutes after the first mixing. Putty is ready, and you can get to work.

The consistency of putty should be like thick sour cream. When removing the mixer from the solution, a non-disappearing trace should remain on its surface. Depending on the thickness of the putty layer applied, its consistency should also change. When applying a thin layer, the putty should be thinner, and thicker - thicker.

After mixing, it is better to wash the mixer immediately. It is convenient to do this by lowering it into the water and letting it work a little.

Wall putty tool

To make walls, a lot of tools are not required. A few paint spatulas of different widths (18, 30 and 50 cm), a small container of water, a brush and a wet rag are enough.

It is inconvenient to take a mortar from a round bucket with a spatula, so I use a small rectangular tray, slightly wider than the width of the spatula blade. To ensure that the right tool is always at hand, all the tools needed to perform putty work, and a tray with putty, are placed in a larger tray (plastic cover from a record player).

For the convenience of working at height, I use a do-it-yourself repair table with a stand. When I work at a height, I place the tray on a stand, and I stand on a table. When I myself stand on the floor, I put the tool tray on the table. Thus, you do not have to be distracted, the quality of work is higher, you get less tired.

Puttying of right internal corners is best done with an angled spatula, which has a rigid canvas bent at a right angle. Without such a spatula, it is difficult to obtain high quality internal corners.

Wall putty technology

Before applying the putty on the wall, regardless of its surface, I without fail wipe its surface with a cloth moistened with plenty of water. This is especially important when applying a very thin layer of putty.

Wiping allows you to solve several problems at once. Remove dust and dirt from the surface of the wall, moisten its surface to slow down the setting of the putty and improve adhesion due to better penetration of the binder composition of the putty into the pores of the wall. If you do not moisten the wall when applying a thin layer of putty, then the moisture from the solution will be instantly absorbed by the wall, the putty will seize, and it will be difficult to level it.

Almost all manufacturers of putties strongly recommend that the surface of the walls be coated with a primer of their production before applying the putty. This, in my opinion, is more of a commercial recommendation, and, as practice has shown, you can do without it. If the walls are moistened or covered with a 10% aqueous solution of PVA glue, then the finishing putty will hold tightly.

If there is any doubt about the reliability of the putty sticking to the wall surface, then moisturizing the wall with a brush with water, in which PVA glue is dissolved at the rate of 1 part of glue to 9 parts of water, helps a lot. After moistening the wall, you can begin to apply a layer of putty.

With a spatula 18 cm wide, a small amount of putty is drawn from the tray. As you can see, the putty does not flow off the canvas and is held with a roller. It must be held in any position of the spatula.

Next, the putty is evenly applied to the wall by moving the spatula in a vertical direction and crosswise. After applying the solution to a given section of the wall with a narrow spatula, they begin to work with a wide spatula (width 50-60 cm). The spatula blade must be perfectly clean, putty residues are not allowed, even in the size of a point. Otherwise, stripes will form.

The spatula is wiped with a damp cloth, applied without pressure to the beginning of the area with putty applied at a minimum angle to the wall surface and pulled over the surface with minimum pressure. You should get a flat surface.

If you need to re-walk with a wide spatula, then you need to remove the remnants of putty from its canvas with a narrow spatula and wipe it with a damp cloth. The canvas should again be clean. Putty residues must be removed, as they may harden a little and leave grooves on the surface.

In places where the corners of the spatula blade pass, small strips often remain. It is rarely possible to remove them, so you should not pay special attention to these traces, they are easily removed after the putty has hardened with a few movements of sandpaper. To obtain a perfect surface, after puttying, the walls must be sanded with sandpaper or mesh.