Dress pattern for a 3 year old girl. How to sew a dress for a girl: master classes and patterns. Pattern of a dress for a girl: a master class

To make a pattern of children's dresses and sundresses, it is not necessary to be able to sew dresses for adults and be a sewing master. Many models of dresses and sundresses are sewn very simply, and it will take no more than 30 minutes to build a pattern. And a dress with a size for little ladies will be special and individual, unlike the one bought in the store.

Easy option

The simplest dress is one-piece, which is sewn from any materials. Suitable for ages 1 to 3 years old. For 3 years, many sew more difficult dresses, but as a light summer option, this style is also suitable for 5 years. Patterns of children's dresses for girls can easily be found in our material.

The basis for the dress can be downloaded for free on the Internet, then adjusted to the desired size and supplemented with details - ties, pockets, an additional skirt, buttons. But it is more interesting to do it yourself, especially since it does not take much time. Learn how to make this outfit below.

Prepare pattern paper. Find a T-shirt in your daughter's wardrobe that is not small for her;
Next, lay the T-shirt on the paper and smooth it out so that there are no extra wrinkles. Circle the outline of the shirt, or only the outline of the neck and armholes. Next, the lines need to be expanded to the bottom, and rounded at the bottom. It’s not scary if the pattern turns out to be asymmetrical, since only half of the product is needed for sewing.

Choose the length of the dress, choosing by age. Choose the neckline of the dress. Next, measure the circumference of the child's chest, divide it in half, getting a half-girth. Determine the size of A and B. If there is no child nearby, or you are sewing as a gift to someone, you can refer to the tables that indicate the sizes for small children.

Measure the distances for allowances so that the dress sits freely on the child;
Divide the pattern in half and cut it, since only one half is useful, you can choose the most successful half if they turn out to be different.

summer model

Summer sundresses come in completely different models: from simple ones with ties to complex patterned multi-layered sundresses. Consider two sundresses. For a sundress, a child under five years old will not need difficult patterns. You can make a simple sundress with straps.

It is even easier to sew a sundress that is tightened with a ribbon. And it looks bright and beautiful, suitable for any age of the child.

For a teenage girl

It’s not much more difficult to sew a sundress for 10 years, but it’s unlikely that everything will be done by eye, so it’s better to take the basic dress pattern as a basis.

It will be a fitted, sleeveless dress with a large bow in the front.

Front and back. The neckline needs to be deepened by 3-4 cm, a new cutout must be built according to the specified parameters. In order for the dress to emphasize the beauty of the figure, it must be fitted and extended downwards. On the back, on the waistline, retreat 1.5 cm, increase the bottom line by 3 cm. Since the dress has thin straps, the shoulder needs to be reduced by 2.5 cm and a new armhole should be made. Next, with a width of about 3 cm, make the facing of the neck and the facing of the armhole.

Color transition. The dress will be with a color transition, so the color change on the dress should be marked with horizontal lines. You need to do both on the front and on the back pattern.

Cut the pattern and you can start sewing.

The basis of the outfit

In order to sew many dresses for your child, you can make a base pattern, according to which in the future it will be easy to sew any dress. To do this, you need to take measurements:

Lengths: back to waist, total length, shoulder, sleeve;
Semi-girths: neck and chest.

Construct a rectangle on graph paper ABCD, AD is the length of the dress, AB and BC are the width=Lift+4cm for the allowance.

Please note that the allowance can be made smaller, then the dress will fit more tightly.

From A, retreat 1/3 * Pog + 6 cm and put G. From G, draw a line to BC, mark G1. From A, retreat Ds and note the longing of T, draw a line from it to BC and put a point T1. Divide GG1 into two equal parts, mark G4 and draw a line from it to DC, designate H and H2. From G4 to the right and left, set aside ½ * the width of the armhole (Shp = ¼ * Pog + 2 cm). Put G2 and G3. From G2 and G3, build straight lines up to AB, put P1 and P. From B and P1, retreat 2 cm, put P2 and P3. Make a segment P2P3. Divide PG2 into two equal sections, and divide P1G3 similarly into three sections.

Without complex drawings and intricate calculations, you can sew simple everyday or elegant dresses for special occasions for your daughter at least every day. If you didn’t know about it yet, then simple tailoring options have been collected for you. Experienced craftswomen will also like them.

Simple for girls for 1-3 years

With just one pattern of a one-piece dress for a girl, you can sew many different models.

The model shown below is lined and fastens at the shoulders with buttons. It can be sewn from any thin or dense fabric.

Pattern

You can find a suitable pattern for a one-piece dress in magazines, or you can make it yourself by taking a T-shirt or blouse that fits well on a girl as a template.

How does this happen?

Take a large piece of paper or a roll of wallpaper.
After spreading the paper, lay out the T-shirt and circle the neck and armholes. Next, make a flare in the form of a trapezoid and round the bottom. It is not scary if the item you have chosen has a high waist or a strong flare. Outline the model, and then remove the excess and finish the necessary, adjust the depth of the armhole and neck. The main thing is that the shoulder bevels, chest width and armhole height are already there.
When drawing, the pattern may turn out to be asymmetric. This is not scary, because one half is taken for cutting, naturally the best.
If you are circling a blouse with sleeves, then go through the armhole with a needle. Traces will remain on paper and you can beautifully connect them with a pencil. In the same way, you can make a separate sleeve pattern.

Cutting and sewing

Open the front and back of the lining fabric.
Circle the cut parts on the main fabric and cut out.
Sew along the side seams of the front and back of the lining and main fabric.
Match the tops of the two fabrics and secure with pins.
Sew and trim the edges.
Turn inside out and smooth out the seams.

Wrap the edges of the hem of the dress inside, turn the dress inside out and sew, leaving about 5 cm for turning inside out again.
After turning the dress inside out, fold the edges inward in an unsewn hole, smooth them and stitch them.
Lay a line along the upper cuts of the dress.

On the shoulders of the front, mark the place for sewing on the buttons and holes for the buttonholes. Then make loops and sew on the buttons covered with the main fabric.

Summer sundress without a pattern

To sew such a cute sundress, you don’t need a pattern at all and you don’t need to trace anything either, so a beginner in sewing can handle the dress. This model is suitable for a girl of any age and physique, since the width and length are made at your discretion.

To begin with, we need to measure the volume of the girl’s chest and determine the length of the sundress. Multiply the volume by 1.5 or 2 to form beautiful folds and not press on the chest area. The length is measured from the armhole, plus 1.5 cm is added to it for the top edge and 4 cm for the bottom hem.
Cut out the rectangle, fold it in half face inward and sew along the side.
Make a hem at the top and hem. The edges can be finished with a zigzag stitch.
Sew 5-10 rows on the dress with a zigzag stitch with an elastic band, or by wrapping an elastic band around the bobbin.
Make 2 straps 90 cm long from a contrasting fabric and stitch to the front.
From the same fabric as the sundress, make 2 loop strips 5x25 cm and stitch to the back.
Pull the straps through the loops and tie into a bow.

Baptismal

While still very young, children are pure and innocent, and very similar to angels, especially during such a solemn ceremony, because white robes maximize this effect.

Baptismal dresses usually have a simple cut, so they are sewn quickly. So let's get started.

bodice

Make a top pattern using any method convenient for you. There will be a button closure on the back, so add a few inches for the placket.

Cut out the satin and lining pieces, then sew the front and back in each fabric.
Stitch the satin top and lining fabric together at the neckline, folded facing inward. To keep the edges from fraying, process them with a zigzag stitch.
Turn the bodice inside out and iron.

Sleeves

Make a sleeve pattern and open them.
Gather a little at the bottom and at the top.
Cut out 2 bands for edging the bottom of the sleeves. Their length is equal to the length of the bottom of the sleeve, and make the width arbitrary, given that it will fold in half.
Sew the strips on one side, then fold over and sew on the other side.
Sew in the sleeves and iron the seams.
On the back, make loops or sew Velcro.

Skirt

The skirt will consist of 3 layers:

Lower. From the lining fabric, cut out a rectangle of the same width as the bottom of the bodice, but shorter in length by 5-6 cm from the main length.
Average. From satin fabric, cut out a rectangle with a width equal to two widths of the lower edge of the bodice. That is, if the bottom of the front and back is 46 cm, then the width of the rectangle will be 92-100 cm. Make the length as you wish.
Upper. The width of the second rectangle will be 2 times larger, that is, 184-200 cm and make the length a couple of centimeters shorter.

Sew each of the rectangles along the side seam. Work the top in a zigzag, and then pick it up to the desired size.

Fold all layers together and stitch, then sew to the top.

Fold the hem of the skirts.

Make flowers from strips of fabric.

elegant

Girls have no less than adults reasons to wear a smart dress. Therefore, we offer to sew a romantic model with frills.

Calculations

The top frill should cover the stitching seam of the next tier, so make the lining parts 2-4 cm smaller than the parts from the main fabric.
To make the skirt voluminous and flared, increase the length of the lining by 1.5 times, and the frills by 2.
If the volume of the top is 60 cm, then the length of the first tier of the lining should be 90 cm, and the frills - 120 cm.
The second tier and subsequent ones are calculated based on the size of the previous ones. That is, the length of the lining of the second tier is 135 cm, and the frills are 240 cm. The third is 202 cm for the lining and 360 cm for the frill.

If the fabric is dense, then the bottom lining is not needed.

Sewing

The top in the dress is ordinary, so cutting and sewing it, we will make a belt.

You will need a stripe of a contrasting color 13 cm wide and as long as the volume of the top. The strip, folded in half lengthwise, stitch to the bottom of the top.

In ruffles, hem the bottom edges with a narrow hem, and gather the top edges to the desired length.

In the linings, also gather the top edges. Then arrange all the details in pairs, so it will be more convenient to assemble the dress.

Stepping back 1.5 cm from the edge of the back, since a hidden zipper will be sewn in there, pin the frill with pins.

Put the first tier of the lining with the front side on the frill and pin it off with pins, while making sure that its sides coincide with the edges of the back, that is, there should be no indents. Sew through all layers.

Sew in the zipper, pinning it to the top and lining, while the frill is not sewn on.

For a nice looking lining, turn it inside out and sew very close to the zipper using the matching foot.

We sew the second tier. Close the rectangles from both fabrics into circles. Then pin the frill to the lining from the 1st tier, and put the second lining on top of it and sew together.

Sew the third in the same way.

In this article, we describe how to build a pattern of the base of the dress for a girl of younger and older age. If you have a little fashionista, I mean a daughter or granddaughter, then you just need to master the technique of building patterns for girls. Children grow out of clothes very quickly, and every time you want to update your children's wardrobe, you will have to build a new pattern. It may seem difficult at first. But I assure you, the second, third time will be much easier. And the fifth time, starting to build, you will know all the calculations by heart. It's not difficult at all. Moreover, we offer STEP-BY-STEP instructions for constructing a pattern drawing. Line by line and the pattern is ready. Everything is simple.
Today we will learn how to build a pattern basics dresses. And later, on the basis of this foundation, we will master the modeling of different styles of children's clothing. It is very exciting! I don't even know who will enjoy it more. You - from the very process of creating a children's wardrobe or your little "client", receiving new outfits as a gift from you. In my opinion, this is a mutually beneficial cooperation. Moreover, the benefit, first of all, is in the moral satisfaction of both parties. This is cool!

For the manufacture of the correct pattern, it is necessary to have accurately taken measurements. If mistakes are made when taking measurements, the drawing will turn out to be inaccurate and the dress will not sit well on the figure.
Measurements are taken with a measuring tape, which is not loosened or pulled tight. A girl dressed in light clothing or underwear should stand without tension, in a normal position. A lace or a thin belt is tied along the waist line.
When taking measurements, you need to specify the height of the shoulders. Shoulders are high, normal and sloping. Everything is like adults.

The correct construction of the drawing largely depends on this measurement.
As an example, we will build a pattern for the 32nd size. You are taking measurements on your young lady.

Girl's dress

To build a pattern drawing, you will need the following measurements:

Half neck		Measured at the base of the neck. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Half bust		This measurement determines the size of the figure. The measuring tape should run along the protruding parts of the shoulder blades on the back and along the highest part of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Half waist		Measure at the narrowest point of the waist. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Semi circumference of the hips		Measured at the highest part of the hips, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measure is written in half size.
		The distance between the high points of the chest. The measurement is recorded in half size.
		Measure by placing a centimeter tape from the left hand to the right at the level of the protruding parts of the shoulder blades. The measurement is recorded in half size.
		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the lace at the waist. The measure is recorded in full.
Length of the product		Measure from the seventh (protruding) cervical vertebra in the middle of the back to the required length (8). The measure is recorded in full.
Shoulder length		Measure from the base of the neck to the shoulder joint. The measure is recorded in full.
Arm circumference		Measure around the arm at the armpit. The measure is recorded in full.
The length of the sleeve		Measure from the shoulder joint to the wrist. The measure is recorded in full.
Allowance for free fit along the chest line 6 cm (for older girls, add 5 cm for free fit), along the waist line 2 cm (for older girls add 1 cm), along the hips 3 cm (for older girls 2 cm).

On the left side of a piece of paper
stepping back from the upper cut of centimeters by 7, draw a vertical line on which set aside the measurement of the length of the dress and put points A and H. Draw horizontal lines through points A and H to the right.

Rice. 1

From point A to the right, set aside the measurement of the half-circumference of the chest plus 6 cm for a loose fit (for older girls, add 5 cm for a free fit) and set point B.
AB \u003d 32 + 6 \u003d 38 cm.
From point B, lower the perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line. Mark the intersection point as H1.

Fig.2

From point A down, measure the length of the back to the waist plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and put a point T.
AT \u003d 29 + 1 \u003d 30 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through point T to the right. Mark the point of intersection with the BH1 line as T1.

Rice. 3

From point T down, set aside 1/2 measurements of the length of the back to the waist and set point B
29:2=14.5cm
Draw a horizontal line through point B to the right until it intersects with line BH1. Mark the intersection point B1.

Fig.4

From point A to the right, set aside the measurement of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put point A1
14 + 1.5 = 15.5 cm

Rice. 5

Armhole width.
From point A1 to the right, set aside ¼ chest measurements plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and put point A2.
A1A2 \u003d 32: 4 + 1 \u003d 9 cm.
From points A1 and A2 down draw vertical lines of arbitrary length.

Rice. 6

From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put point A3.
AA3 \u003d 14: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.2 cm.
Draw a perpendicular from point A3 upwards, on which set aside 1/10 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.8 cm and set point A4.
A3A4 \u003d 14:10 + 0.8 \u003d 2.2 cm.
Divide the angle at point A3 in half, from point A3 along the dividing line of the angle, set aside 1/10 of the measurements of the half-girth of the neck minus 0.3 cm and set point A5.
A3A5 \u003d 14: 10 - 0.3 \u003d 1.1 cm.
Connect points A4, A5, A with a smooth concave line.

Rice. 7

Back shoulder line.
From point A1 down, set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, (1.5 cm for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders) and set point P. Connect points A4 and P with a straight line on which
from point A4, measure the length of the shoulder plus 1.6 cm for the tuck and put point P1.
A4P1 \u003d 10.3 + 1.6 \u003d 11.9 cm.

Rice. 8

Set aside 3.5 - 4 cm from point A4 to the right and set point O. Draw a vertical line from point O down, on which set aside 6 cm and set point O1. From point O to the right, along the line A4P1, set aside 1.6 cm and put point O2. Connect point O1 with a straight line to point O2, on which set aside the value of segment OO1 from point O1 and set point O3. This construction can be done using a compass (see Fig. 10).
By connecting points O3 and P1 with a straight line, we complete the design of the shoulder line.

Rice. 9

From the point P down, set aside 1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest plus 7 cm and put the point G
PG \u003d 32: 4 + 7 \u003d 15 cm.
Draw a horizontal line through point D to the left and right. Designate the point of intersection with the AN line - G1, the point of intersection with the armhole width line - G2, with the line BH1 - G3.

Rice. 10

Back cutout.
Set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2 cm from the point G upwards and set the point P2
GP2 = GP: 3 + 2 = 15: 3 + 2 = 7 cm.
Divide the corner at point G in half and, along the division line of the angle from point G, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and set point P3.
GP3 \u003d 9: 10 + 1.5 \u003d 2.4 cm.
Divide the width of the armhole GG2 in half and put a point G4. Connect the points P1, P2, P3, G4 with a smooth line. We get the armhole line of the back.

Rice. eleven

Front armhole cut.
From point G2 up, set aside 1/4 measurements of the half-girth of the chest plus 5 cm and put point P4.
G2P4 \u003d 32: 4 + 5 \u003d 13 cm.
From point P4 to the left, draw a horizontal line, on which set aside 1/10 measurements of the half-girth of the chest and put point P5.
32:10 = 3.2 cm.
From the point G2 up, set aside 1/3 of the value of the segment G2 P4 and set the point P6.
G2P6 \u003d G2P4: 3 \u003d 13: 3 \u003d 4.3 cm.
Connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line, divide it in half, set aside 0.8 - 1 cm from the division point to the right, and mark this point with the number 1. Divide the angle at point G2 in half. From the point G2 along the division line of the corner, set aside 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and set the point P7.
G2 P7 \u003d 9: 10 + 0.8 \u003d 1.7 cm.
Connect points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 with a smooth line.
We have finished building the armhole in front.

Rice. 12

Shelf neck cut.
From point G3 up along the line H1B, set aside 1/2 measurements of the half-girth of the chest plus 3.5 cm (for older girls, plus 2-2.5 cm) and put point B1.
G3V1 \u003d 32: 2 + 3.5 \u003d 19.5 cm.
From the point G2 along the line G2A2, set aside the value of the segment G3B1 and set the point B2. Connect points B1 and B2.
From point B1 to the left, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put point B3.
B1Bz \u003d 14: 3 + 0.5 \u003d 5.2 cm.
From point B1 down, set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 2 cm and put point B4.
B1B4 \u003d 14: 3 + 2 \u003d 6.7 cm.
Connect points B3 and B4 with a dotted line and divide it in half.
From point B1 through the division point, draw a line on which set aside 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm and put point B5
B1B5 \u003d 14: 3 + 1 \u003d 5.7 cm.
Connect points B3, B5, B4 with a smooth line. We get the front neck line.

Rice. 13

From the point G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest plus 1 cm (for older girls plus 0.5 cm) and put the point G6.
G3G6 \u003d 7 + 1 \u003d 8 cm.
From point G6, draw a perpendicular to the line B1B2, mark the intersection point B6.

Rice. 14

Set aside 1 - 1.5 cm from point B6 down and put point B7. Connect point B7 with a straight line to point B3 and a dotted line to point P5.
From point P5 to the right along the dotted line, set aside a measurement of the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment B3B7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8.
10.3 - 2.8 - 0.3 = 7.2 cm.
Connect the points G6 and B8 with a straight line, on the continuation of which from the point G6 set aside a value equal to the segment G6B7, and set the point B9. Connect points B9 and P5 with a straight line.
(This construction can be done using a compass. From point G6, as from the center, we draw an arc through point B3 to the left, until it intersects with a straight line and set point B9). Choose the option convenient for you.

Rice. 15

Side seam line.
From point G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and set point G5 (9: 3 \u003d 3 cm).
From point G5, lower the perpendicular to the bottom line, mark the intersection points with the waist, hips and bottom lines as T2, B2 and H2.

For determining common solution of tucks along the waistline, add 2 cm to the waist measurement, for older girls 1 cm (28 + 2 = 30 cm), then subtract this value from the width of the dress between points TT1 (38-30 = 8cm).
The size of the solution of the front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution of the tucks along the waist line (8x0.25 = 2cm), the side 0.45 of the total solution (8x0.45 = 3.6cm),
back 0.3 total solution (8x0.3 = 2.4 cm).
To calculate the dress along the hip line, add 3 cm to the measure of the half-girth of the hips (for older girls 2 cm) for a free fit, subtract the width of the dress obtained when constructing the drawing between points BB1 (38 + 3-38 = 3 cm) from the resulting value.
Distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (3:2 = 1.5 cm).
Set aside 1.5 cm from point B2 to the left and right and put points B3 and B4.
From point T2 to the left and right along the waist line, set aside half of the side tuck solution (3.6: 2 = 1.8 cm) and put points T3 and T4.
Connect points T3 and T4 with straight lines to point G5 and extend the line up to the armhole line.
Connect points T3 B4 and T4 B3 with dotted lines, which you divide in half.
Set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the left and right and connect them with smooth lines to points T3 and B4, and, accordingly, T4 and B3.

Rice. 16

Rice. 17

Front waistline.
Set aside 1.5 cm from point T1 down and put point T5. Connect points T5 and T4 with a smooth curve.

Rice. 18

Set aside 1.5 cm from point B1 down and put point B5. Connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth curve.

Rice. 19

Divide the distance between the points GG1 in half, mark the division point as G7. From point G7 lower the perpendicular to the line BB1. Mark the points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips, respectively, T6 and B6. From point T6 to the left and right, set aside half of the solution of the back tuck (2.4: 2 \u003d 1.2 cm) and put points T7 and T3. Set aside 3 cm from point B6 up. Connect the resulting points.

Rice. 20

Making a tuck on shelf.
From point G6 down draw a vertical line to the intersection with line B3B5. Mark the points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips, respectively, T9 and B7. From point T9 to the left and right, set aside half of the solution of the front tuck (2: 2 \u003d 1 cm) and put points T10 and T11. From point G6 down, and from point B7 up, set aside 4 cm and connect them to points T10 and T11.

Rice. 21

The design of the side seam line.
Draw vertical lines down from points B3 and B4, mark the points of intersection with the bottom line as H3 and H4. If the dress should be extended, then set aside 3-5 cm from points H3 and H4 to the left and right and connect them with straight lines to points Bz and B4.

Rice. 22

From H1, set aside 1.5 cm down and mark the point H5. Point H5 and H3 (and in the extended version, the lower point of the side seam 3) connect with a smooth curve. If the dress is extended to the bottom, it is necessary to correct the line of the bottom of the back. Set aside 1-1.5 cm from point H down, put point H6 and connect it with a smooth curve to the lower point of the side seam of the back 3.

Rice. 23

Rice. 24

All. The construction of the pattern is completed

Remind you that this is a dry drawing, a kind of frame from which you can model a style of any complexity. The simplest thing you can do yourself is a yoke on the bodice, or cut the dress along the waist line and gather the lower part of the dress (skirt), or make a frill along the bottom of the dress, etc.

Rice. 25

In the next issue we will build a sleeve pattern for children.

In subsequent issues, we will learn how to model, and then we will begin to master the technology of tailoring.

Follow the news of the site, and you will always be up to date.

I wish you all creative inspiration!

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In any children's store you will find a lot of dresses for little fashionistas, be it festive, knitted. Leading fashion houses also do not deprive their youngest clients of their attention. But quite often, children's things cost so much that the mother will think three hundred times before taking out her wallet. Do you want to dress up a child or teenager, but finances do not allow? You can do a lot on your own if you try hard enough. Where can I get baby dress patterns for beginners? It is not difficult to make simple patterns with your own hands and for free, we will talk about some methods now.

Not everyone knows about this, but in order to sew a dress for a girl, a pattern is not at all necessary! Without a pattern, you can sew:

outfit in folk style;
ball gown;
summer sundress.

Are you wondering where to start? Let's do a sundress then - it's the easiest. But first you need to take some measurements - it's best to write them down if you are not going to be limited to just one product.

Measure:

your little daughter's height;
chest girth;
waist circumference;
hip girth;
shoulder length;
sleeve length (you won’t need it for a sundress, but if you already took measurements, it’s useful to do everything at once);
estimated product length.

Important! For a sundress with straps, measure the length of the product from the armpit to the intended bottom line.

Choosing a fabric

In general, sewing for small children is a pleasure. The seams are short, the fabric needs little, no darts and intricate details. The simpler the style, the better. It is enough to choose a beautiful fabric, and even the most elementary, but neatly sewn dress will look like a princess.

Important! You can also use the scraps left over from a new mother's dress, or change something of your own for your daughter - good, but managed to get bored.

If you choose material for a summer sarafan, it is better to choose one that drapes well:

crepe de chine;
chiffon;
thin chintz;
satin;
poplin;
gauze.

Important! Chintz fits just perfect - inexpensive, very hygienic, bright, suitable for a New Year's dress. And it's okay that it quickly fades - anyway, by next summer, my daughter will grow out of this dress.

Also, to sew a children's, light dress with your own hands, you need:

linen gum;
braid to match the fabric - for straps and edging.

We sew a sarafan

Perhaps this model with an elastic band and straps is the simplest do-it-yourself dress for a girl. If you sew it from an opaque fabric, it will be single layered. It is better to fold gauze in two layers or make a cover. Below are photo sketches.

Operating procedure:

Spread the fabric in one layer inside out.
Draw a top line perpendicular to the edges.
From this line, lay down the length of the product, plus allowances for the drawstring on top and for processing the bottom - you can immediately outline the drawstring lines.
Through this mark, draw another perpendicular to the edges.
On the line that goes along the lobar, set aside a segment equal to the circumference of the chest, multiplied by 1.5 or 2 (depending on how well the fabric drapes: if it is gauze, it is better to make lush gathers, if chintz or satin are more modest ).
Cut out the detail.

Assembling a sundress

How to sew a children's dress with your own hands? Very simple. This model has only one seam, plus bottom processing, plus a drawstring:

Start with a drawstring - iron the upper cut to the wrong side, then bend the fold by 0.5 cm and sew it all up (it is better to make a decorative stitch on the front side).
Stitch the back seam on the wrong side, leave the area near the drawstring unsealed so that you can insert the elastic.
Insert rubber band.
Try on the blank for your daughter.
Mark the places for the straps.
Cut 2 pieces of braid, sew on the straps.
Hem the bottom - hem it by hand or stitch it.
Along the hem, you can sew the same braid from which the straps are made.

Important! The straps of such a sundress can be made tied.

Sundress on a yoke

If you need a dress for a girl, you can sew it yourself from two different fabrics. For example, for a coquette, take satin, and for the bottom - crepe de chine. But nothing prevents constructing a similar little thing from the same material.

This summer dress on a yoke is also made like a sundress, only the shoulder straps are better to be made wide and from the same fabric as the yoke, and this model does not have drawstrings.

Important! It is better to cut out the yoke first on paper - it looks like a strip 5-6 cm wide and a length equal to the half-girth of the chest. There will be 4 parts - two for the front and two for the back. Here are some simple patterns of children's dresses for beginners that you can use.

Operating procedure:

Spread the fabric along the share (you can immediately in two layers).
Cut out 4 strips of the specified size from it (do not forget to add allowances for all cuts) - the shared thread coincides with the short side.
Cut out the hem - for this, subtract the width of the yoke from the total length of the product (like the previous model, it is measured from the armpit to the bottom).
Cut out 2 straps - these are also strips 5-6 cm wide, but, unlike the yoke, when cutting, the shared thread coincides with the long side.

Straps

To assemble this model, start by preparing the straps:

Fold the strips in half right sides out.
Insert long allowances inside.
Iron them.
Stitch the seam and topstitch the straps all around.

Yoke

To sew a baby dress with your own hands quickly, connect the yoke with the straps, and then sew on the bottom:

We sweep the strips in pairs: one for the outside, the other for the inside.
We sweep each into a ring.
We try one of them on the model.
We outline places for the straps - both on that part of the coquette that will be outside and on the one inside.
Carefully unpick the basting, straighten the rings.
We fold the strips intended for the front, right sides to each other.
We put straps between them.
Sew off the top seam.
We twist the yoke - the long parts of the straps should be on the front side.
We iron the seam.
We do the same with the back parts - after you stitch them, the straps should be sewn in.
We cut the side seams of the coquette - the allowances should be inside.

Putting together a summer dress

Your yoke with straps is ready. It remains to sew the hem, but first you need to prepare it:

Sew the back seam.
Iron the allowances on the sides.
Sew along the joining line to the yoke with a basting stitch and gather.
Place the top edge of the body between the yoke pieces and tuck in.
Attach the main part to the yoke.

The dress is almost ready, it remains to trim the bottom.

Dress according to the pattern

You can also sew a children's dress with your own hands according to a pattern. Clothing for small children is also good because many things can be sewn according to the same patterns. For example, on a T-shirt or T-shirt. To do this, it is not at all necessary to unpick the thing - you can simply circle it. It's better to do this on paper first so that you can model the cutout:

Circle the shirt.
For the back of a straight dress, simply continue the side lines down to the desired length.
For the shelf, also continue the lines down to the same length.
Find the middle of the cutout.
Draw a line down from this point.
Set aside 2 cm.
Connect this new point to the beginning of the shoulder seams.

Cut out 2 pieces - front and back.
Cut out the facings for the neck and armholes - just circle them first along the contour of the pattern, and then make a parallel stroke at a distance of 2.5-3 cm (you need to circle by aligning the front side of the part with the wrong side of the facing).
Sew the shoulder and side seams of the main parts, while ironing the allowances to the sides.
Sew along the shoulder seams of the neckline.
Iron the allowances.
Turn the main dress inside out.
Baste the facings so that their front sides are on the wrong side of the dress.
Sew along the cutouts.
Bend the free edges by 0.5 cm and stitch - better with a finishing stitch on the front side.
After that, all you have to do is trim the bottom.

Elegant dress for a girl with her own hands

Have you thought about how to dress up the princess for a matinee, but there is almost no time left? Nothing complicated. Now we will talk about how to sew a children's dress with a fluffy skirt - this is the best option, and you can make it in a couple of hours.

You will need:

material for the top (if there is a beautiful swimsuit or bodysuit, it will be very good - the upper part can also be made from these items);
tulle or guipure for a skirt;
wide elastic band for the belt;
large compass;
long line.

Top

The top is done in the same way as for a simple sleeveless dress - that is, a T-shirt is circled, but only to the waist. The notch is modeled.

If you are sewing a dress from a swimsuit, simply cut (cut) the lower part or turn the swimsuit into a bodysuit by cutting it between your legs and sewing an inconspicuous button there. Why is a clasp needed? Then, so that your little princess does not feel any inconvenience and does not puzzle over what to do if she needs to go to the toilet.

We start the assembly from the top - we simply sew the parts in the same way as in the manufacture of any other clothing. You can immediately process the top and armholes, unless, of course, you are going to sew in a zipper.

Making a skirt

The sun skirt on a little girl looks just perfect. It can be floor-length or very short, in the style of dudes. Only two measurements are needed - the waist circumference and the length of the skirt itself.

Important! What to sew from? The ingenious invention of designers is tulle. Holds its shape well - no need to starch. You can cut as you like, it costs nothing to cut several layers at once.

The template is better to make in advance:

Calculate the construction, the radius of the notch - divide the waist circumference by 6.28.
Draw a circle on the sheet with this radius.
Add the length of the product to the radius.
Draw a second circle from the same center - you will get a ring.
Cut out several layers of tulle - they may be the same, but you can make frills of different lengths.

Your next steps depend on what the top is made of:

Materials such as supplex or jersey have excellent stretch, so you can simply sew the skirt first to the elastic, and then to the whole structure. - to the bodice.
If the material is not so remarkably stretched, a zipper is indispensable. It is best to sew it in the middle of the back, from the top to the skirt. In this case, the neck is processed after the lightning takes its place.

footage

In a word, there are a lot of models for little girls from 2 months old, and many can be sewn according to the most primitive patterns. The most important thing is to carefully handle all the details. The slightest negligence on children's clothes is visible much better than on adult clothes, and can significantly spoil the look.

Every girl at least once in her life dreams, like the heroine of her favorite fairy tale Cinderella, to be at a real ball. And not just to appear, but also to look like a fairy-tale princess at this ball: in a beautiful, with an intricate hairstyle, elegant shoes, with light makeup. And let your fashionista manage to wear this dress of hers only once - still give your child a fairy tale, and your princess will remember such a miraculous transformation for a long time. Our dress pattern for girls will help you turn your beauty not only into a princess. By changing the length of the skirt, the color of the fabric and its texture, it easily transforms into an airy snowflake, a mysterious flower fairy, and even a Spanish gypsy beauty. Fluffy multi-layered skirts will help create both an airy tutu and an exquisite ballet chopin. This basic pattern will help you create completely different looks.

Show a little more imagination and ruffles, rhinestones, bows. Add elbow-length gloves, a miniature clutch bag, make a diadem.

Patterns replaced (July 2016)

You can download a dress pattern for a girl for free using the following links:

Russian size (height)	Chest coverage	Waist	Hips	age appropriate	direct link
size 86	52-54	49-51	52-54	1.5 years
size 92	53-55	50-52	53-56	2 years
size 98	54-56	51-53	55-58	3 years
size 104	55-57	52-54	57-60	4 years
size 110	56-58	53-55	59-62	5 years
size 122	58-62	55-58	63-67	7 years
size 134	64-68	58-61	69-73	9 years

Size (height)	Bust	Waist	Hip girth	age appropriate
size 80	51-53	48-50	51-53	1 year	Payment for goods Buy
size 116	57-59	54-56	61-64	6 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 128	61-65	57-59	66-70	8 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 140	67-71	59-62	72-76	10 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 146	70-74	62-64	75-80	11 years	Payment for goods Buy
size 152	74-76	64-65	79-83	12 years	Payment for goods Buy

* As a result of payment, you will automatically be sent a file with a pattern to your e-mail. If the file has not arrived, then you need to check whether you entered the correct postal address when paying. If the mailing address is correct, but the file has not arrived, you must immediately contact the address [email protected]

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

The composition of the set of patterns:

note The skirt consists of several layers. The bottom is a fabric that holds its shape, the top is soft organza or chiffon.

A variety of dress fabrics at an affordable price can be purchased at the VITEKS online store.

Below is a description of sewing an elegant christening dress from one of our readers.

Initially, I planned to make a beautiful dress for my niece, which she could wear to baptism and a couple of other holidays. I liked this model for its simplicity and the ability to choose a pattern for the desired size. My nephew has already grown a little 92, but does not reach 98cm (the girl is 2.5 years old). I decided to sew a little overhand and chose a 98 cm pattern. As it turned out later, I did the right thing, because she climbed in with difficulty. I printed and cut out patterns, for sewing I chose white chintz as the main fabric and lace as an additional upper tier of the skirt. I bought 2.5 meters of lace braid, three flower bows and a thin braid with rhinestones - 2 meters. Although the pattern came with sleeves and I even cut them out, I didn’t sew them on. I figured this dress would look prettier without them. I made double patterns for the torso to the waist - so that the chintz does not shine through and looks neater. Then I sewed all the details in them, I got patterns to the waist in two copies. I stitched necklines, cuts for the head and turned the product right side out. After that, I sewed on the front side of the armhole, having previously folded the ends and put thin lace on the seams so that they were not noticeable. The top of the product was almost ready. I want to note that I cut exactly according to the patterns for 98 cm, I did not make additional allowances for the seams. And then, when the dress was already ready, it sat back to back. Therefore, if you sew exactly to your size, then lay in addition for larger allowances so that the girl fits well. You can also slightly increase the neckline, sew a zipper on the back or plant small buttons. In order for the child's head to pass without problems, it is necessary that the two halves of the back are sewn together only at the very bottom and leave a deep cut. On this I got a little stuck and I had to embroider it twice, making more.
After, I started to pattern the bottom, only I decided to make the top lace layer of the skirt more magnificent and therefore cut it not like the bottom one - the sun, but simply gathered it into an assembly and stitched it. I cut the bottom layer exactly according to the finished pattern. It turned out very elegant and the length is just right. I trimmed the bottom of the upper lace layer with lace with rhinestones. So that the threads were not conspicuous, I sewed a very thin fishing line. She was transparent and inconspicuous. I trimmed the bottom layer of the dress with lace. After I connected the top and bottom of the dress from the inside and processed all the edges on a typewriter. I wanted the bottom of the dress to somehow play - for this I slightly grabbed it into an accordion and lifted the ends of the skirt in front on both sides. I sewed a white flower into the places of capture and one more on the left side of the chest. To make the dress look even more elegant, I bought a very wide transparent mesh ribbon with large flowers embroidered with white braid. I sewed it in the waist area to the outside of the dress with hand stitches with transparent thin fishing line. Due to its large size, it turned out that the top of the braid was under the bust, and the bottom went over the lace skirt. But it looked good. On the back of the cut, I sewed a small button and made an air loop out of white threads. But since, as I already wrote, the incision had to be lengthened, it took at least three buttons there. I finished them afterwards. This is where my work with the dress ended - it turned out to be very airy and beautiful.