Safe acid peeling at home. How to do an acid peel at home

Many changes have taken place in modern women's personal care system, and acid peeling for the face at home has become a very popular procedure over the past decade.

The specificity of peeling with acids is to treat the skin with acid solutions of not very high concentration in order to remove dead epithelium and deeply cleanse the pores. Acid peeling at home was done by the women of Ancient Egypt, using simply well-chopped, acid-rich fruits.

Without a doubt, today peels have become more perfect and effective, new methods have appeared by which this procedure is carried out, and cosmetic companies are striving to develop more and more new formulations that help fight various skin problems.

Advantages

In salons, the acid peeling procedure began to be called differently: exfoliation, deep cleaning, AHA peeling, chemical skin treatment, etc. Increasingly, different types of acids began to be used to solve specific problems:

  • azelaic, kojic and phytic help eliminate hyperpigmentation (azelaic peeling is described by);
  • retinoic aimed at rejuvenation of the epidermis;
  • benzoic, salicylic and trichloroacetic fight inflammation of the sebaceous glands (you can read about peeling with retinoic acid at);
  • glycolic acid Known for its skin firming properties.

No matter how scary the names of the above acids may sound, modern technologies and developments make it possible to do acid peeling at home, and even young women who are not tempted by expensive salon procedures can eliminate their problems with acids. The main requirement is to strictly follow all the instructions and recommendations of specialists.

So, at what age can you start peeling with acids? Experts unanimously believe that girls after 20 years old can resort to this procedure, which is an excellent way to combat acne, post-acne, seborrhea, excessive sebum production, and hyperpigmentation.

Upon reaching the age of 30, peeling will help fight already maturing wrinkles, dull complexion and loss of skin turgor.

Despite all its advantages, this procedure has contraindications, especially if you have an increased tendency to allergic reactions, sensitivity, wounds and other damage to the epidermis, rosacea, psoriasis, herpes, a large number of birthmarks, dehydration. In these cases, the use of plings with acids at home is highly undesirable.

On the video - acid peeling for the face at home:

As a rule, formulations with a lower percentage of acids are used for home use (compared to salon procedures). Thanks to this, in case of making any mistakes, it will be possible to avoid causing irreparable harm to the skin of the face in the form of burns, hyperpigmentation and superficial scars.

How often can you peel with lactic acid, read.

Various types of procedures

Acids are known for their ability to literally "burn" the epidermis, so certified cosmetologists are trained to control the depth of skin changes during the procedure. To do this, they simply choose the composition with the required concentration of acids and the time of its exposure. But during home procedures, ordinary women will not be able to do this, so they only carry out the so-called superficial peeling.

This procedure affects only the epidermis, can be used both at home and in salons. To achieve a good result, you will have to conduct a course of procedures 1 time per week for a month and a half. This peeling is aimed at rejuvenating the epidermis, eliminating the effects of photoaging, helping to achieve a more uniform complexion.

There are also medium and deep peels that affect the middle layers of the dermis. The procedure is quite painful, so it is performed under local anesthesia. Median peeling helps to eliminate significant age spots, fights senile keratosis and photoaging, reduces or removes acne scars, makes wrinkles less pronounced. Deep peeling acts on the lower layers of the dermis and eliminates scars, scars, wrinkles.

Products suitable for home use

In home care, it is allowed to use products based on alpha and beta hydroxy acids, which are designed specifically for surface exposure. AHA acids are obtained from apples, citrus fruits, sugar cane, willow bark, etc. Glycolic acid is considered the most famous, but lactic, citric, and tartaric acids are also popular. This type of peeling is indicated for women with dry and normal skin. Peeling based on glycolic acid is described.

Among the beta hydroxy acids, salicylic acid is the most popular. This type of acids has a more pronounced effect due to deep penetration into the pores. Thus, it is possible to use lower concentration formulations, thereby reducing the likelihood of complications.

It is salicylic acid that has proven its effectiveness as an anti-inflammatory, exfoliating and fat-dissolving agent, which makes it indispensable in the fight against acne, excessive sebum secretion and increased skin sensitivity.

When peeling at home, first of all, you should choose the right composition, focusing on the type of skin, severe problems, as well as the expected result. Before the procedure, you need to prepare the skin - wash and apply a scrub. The day before, it is necessary to test for skin sensitivity by applying a little composition to the bend of the elbow for 1 minute. If after 24 hours there is no itching, irritation or other manifestations of an allergic reaction, the product can be safely applied to the face.

In order to prevent burns of the mucous membranes and other sensitive areas, it is advised to treat the nostrils, lips, eyelids and eyebrows with ordinary petroleum jelly before peeling. After that, you can apply the selected product, focusing on the instructions in the instructions for use.

On the video - the selection of funds for the procedure:

Read what is almond face peeling.

Behavior after the procedure

After this rather aggressive procedure, you need to properly care for your face: wash your face only using very mild products, moisturize your skin well at least 2 times a day, avoid exposure to active sunlight for a month, use a day cream with SPF protection for at least 50. If there are signs of infection of the epidermis or age spots, you should immediately seek qualified help.

All these precautions will help make the peeling procedure safe, it will become an indispensable part of regular personal care, which will help maintain the beauty and youthfulness of the skin.

Acid peeling is one of the softest, most affordable and effective ways to preserve the blooming, radiant appearance of your skin for a long time and prolong its youth. This procedure can not only improve the appearance of the skin, it also has the effect of rejuvenation, relieves scarring and pigmentation, and is used to eliminate the effects of skin diseases. But before signing up for an acid peeling session or rushing to do it at home, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the features and mechanism of this miraculous procedure in order to get the desired effect.

The main thing in the article

What is acid peeling used for: the essence and principles of the procedure

So, the essence of acid peeling is a beneficial effect on the skin - softening of the stratum corneum and narrowing of the pores, due to which it is renewed, the production of the most important "components of youth" - collagen and elastin - is catalyzed.

Acid peeling consists in applying a chemical composition to the skin, and for some time it is absorbed into the dermis. But the process of cleansing the skin does not end there, it also takes place over the next two weeks, depending on which peeling was chosen and how deeply the substances penetrate into the layers of the skin. Depending on the selected intensity of skin regeneration and the "corrosive agents" involved, there are several types of peels.

Types of acid peels

According to their activity and intensity of action, that is, according to the aggressiveness of the acids used, there are 3 types of peeling:

  1. Surface- removal of a thin part of the epidermis, "revision" of dead cells and their removal. This is the most non-traumatic type of peeling that does not affect living cells. Its main task is even skin tone, get rid of blackheads, tidy up pores . For this purpose, sparing acids of low aggressiveness are used, such as lactic, fruit or salicylic. The rehabilitation period is absent, pain does not occur.
  2. Median- in addition to the epidermis, it also affects the dermis, it is used to obtain a rejuvenating effect. The fact that the medium acid peel affects living cells "awakens" the regeneration process, which is an impetus for the production of collagen. The result is that the skin gets rid of comedones, pigmentation and acne scars, the contours of the face are tightened, and the skin is rejuvenated. The procedure is accompanied by some painful sensations and a period of rehabilitation, during which the skin is tightened with a crust and restored.
  3. Deep peeling- a serious painful procedure that is performed in medical institutions under general anesthesia. Through this peeling, not only skin rejuvenation, but also the elimination of severe acne scars, severe pigmentation and visible wrinkles . The procedure is quite traumatic, requiring a long recovery due to a significant increase in regeneration processes. The active substance for such a procedure is phenol, the activity of which reaches the hypodermis layer, and in some cases reaches the basement membrane.

The mechanism of action of acid peeling on the skin of the face

The mechanism of the procedure is quite simple. On the cleansed face, the cosmetologist applies a peeling composition, which may differ in its activity depending on the type of peeling. In this case, the reaction of the skin should be under strict supervision, and in the case of its active redness, the composition is neutralized. For each procedure, a “own” period of time is allocated, which is determined by a specialist.

By applying this or that acid to the skin, the cosmetologist deliberately burns the desired degree, which is necessary to achieve a particular effect. The body reacts to such a burn by starting the regeneration process: skin cells actively divide and grow.

Thus, the higher the “degree” of the burn, the more active the process of skin restoration, the more significant changes occur with it.

Who needs an acid facial peel?

Acid peeling is “your” procedure if you have:

  • problematic facial skin;
  • in the presence of the first signs of skin aging in the form of fine wrinkles and a decrease in elasticity;
  • traces of acne and blackheads;
  • noticeable skin pigmentation;
  • enlarged pores;
  • the sebaceous glands are too active;
  • "floated" the oval of the face;
  • the skin is bumpy and uneven;
  • there are scars and scars left from skin inflammation;
  • circulatory disorders - rosacea.

Before you “prescribe” yourself this or that type of peeling, depending on the condition of your skin, you need to consult with a specialist.

What preparations are used for the acid peel procedure?

Based on the activity of peeling, a procedure is performed using different types of preparations - acids. Their action is aimed at improving the skin, maximizing its lightening and reducing the signs of aging, but their mechanism of action is still different. Different peeling options are preferred for each skin type and age.

  • Fruit peeling - is carried out using acids of natural fruits - citric, malic, grape and others. The composition of these acids allows you to remove dead cells on the surface of the dermis, significantly lighten it, make it more elastic and smooth. Such a procedure will not cope with serious signs of aging; it is used to refresh the skin, tighten it, and improve complexion. It is used by women from 23-25 ​​years old.
  • Milk peeling is also a sparing procedure aimed at smoothing the skin structure and correcting the complexion.
  • Almond peeling is recommended for girls with noticeable acne scars and other skin roughness that needs to be corrected. Suitable for owners of oily skin, as it normalizes the secretion of subcutaneous fat and removes "garbage" from the pores.
  • Peeling with retinoic acid is a good solution for aging skin, effective even for medium depth wrinkles. The age group of ladies who choose this procedure is regulated by the concentration of retinoic acid, that is, the degree of chemical burn that is applied to the skin through peeling.
  • Glycolic peeling has gained a lot of fans because of its effectiveness in the fight against pigmentation. Perfectly refreshes the face, eliminates sebaceous plugs, tightens pores.
  • Peeling with salicylic acid - is indicated for girls with dark skin, as well as for those who are worried about seborrhea, black dots, "thick" and dark freckles.

Preparing the skin for the acid peel procedure

Before acid peeling in a salon or medical center, the beautician will definitely prepare your skin for the procedure. If you are going to exfoliate at home, do not neglect this measure. After all, many negative reviews about acid peeling are written by girls who simply did not attach importance to such an important stage of this procedure.

Any mono- or multi-acid drug causes chemical burns to the skin, so you need to help your skin to be ready for such a fairly radical effect.

For this, about a week before the procedure, it is recommended:

  • 2-3 times a day, use soft scrubs to cleanse the skin, moisturizing light balms;
  • use sunscreen before leaving the house;
  • as little as possible to use decorative cosmetics;
  • use tretinoin cream to help the skin accumulate as many nutrients as possible, necessary for a speedy recovery;
  • if median or deep peeling is performed, ointments containing Acyclovir are applied to the skin of the face, a substance that will protect the body from inflammation and infections, such as herpes.

Acid peeling: technology and procedure steps

Acid peeling technology itself is simple, and most often the process does not take much time. The main stages of the procedure:

  1. Cleansing the skin from make-up, degreasing the skin.
  2. Preparation of the peeling mixture.
  3. Applying the composition to the skin for a strictly allotted time. Mono- or multi-acid composition is evenly distributed over the skin of the face with a thin layer. The process takes place under the close supervision of a specialist, the patient at this time may feel some burning or slight tingling. If the skin reaction is atypical, or the time of action of the acid is over, the next step is performed.
  4. Acid neutralization. A special solution is used for it, which additionally moisturizes and tones the skin after the session. At home, pure water or milk diluted with water is often used as a neutralizer. However, if you buy a special acid solution for peeling, you should be offered a special neutralizer with it, since, for example, glycolic acid cannot be washed off with plain water.
  5. Treatment of the skin after a burn (namely, a burn is a consequence of the action of acid on the skin) - a cream is applied that softens the skin and helps start regeneration processes in the skin.

If during superficial peeling the patient's sensations are more than tolerable, described as a slight burning sensation, then during median peeling, when deeper layers of the dermis are corroded by acid, more severe discomfort is felt. In this case, the cosmetologist offers to perform local anesthesia or reduces the sensitivity of the skin by exposing it to cold air.

During deep peeling, phenol is kept on the skin of the face for up to 20 minutes, and during this time it “manages to get” to the deeper layers of the skin, acting rather aggressively. Therefore, the patient needs general anesthesia. After the session, a skin-soothing cream is necessarily applied, which will also slightly soften the resulting post-burn crust. With deep peeling, the procedure can take from 1 to 1.5 hours.

Acid peeling at home

At home, superficial, soft peeling can be carried out with preparations with a low content of acids (serum and cream), as well as by purchasing an acid composition in a pharmacy. It is better to give preference to products from such manufacturers:

  • Faberlic;
  • Jansen;
  • Myrrh;
  • Guinot;
  • novacid;
  • Obagi Peel;
  • Alpha;
  • Belita (Belarusian cosmetics);
  • Stop Problem.

An excellent solution for home acid peeling will be natural masks made from fruits and berries, which contain fruit acids in the right amount. The effect of such facial cleansing will be mild, but visually very noticeable. Masks should be done 2-3 times a week, and the ideal components of a home peel composition that is suitable for any skin are:

  • lemon;
  • orange;
  • pomegranate;
  • grapefruit;
  • apple;
  • grape;
  • spoiled milk.

A course of such fruit masks will “reward” you with smooth, elastic, velvety skin without freckles, pimples and traces of them. Here is a recipe for a very effective mask that works like a real acid peel performed by a beautician.

  • a handful of sour berries (grapes, currants or gooseberries);
  • lemon juice - 1 tsp;
  • sugar - 1 tsp.

Grind the berries in a blender to puree, add lemon juice and sugar, mix. Apply to face for 15 minutes. Before washing off the composition, make a light facial massage. Wash off with warm water.

With another way of home peeling calcium chloride We invite you to get acquainted with the video.

Acid peel results with before and after photos







Contraindications for acid peeling

Serious contraindications to acid peeling are the following factors:

  • if you have recently undergone ultrasonic or laser facial cleaning;
  • in the acute stage of herpes;
  • in case of weak immunity;
  • during pregnancy and breastfeeding;
  • if there is an allergic reaction to certain acids;
  • in the presence of keloid scars;
  • inflammatory processes of the skin at the treatment site;
  • if body temperature is elevated.

The final effect of peeling will be observed 2 weeks after the manipulation, and before that, if medium or deep peeling was performed, the skin will look reddened and swollen, actively peel off and, possibly, bleed in places.

Safety rules for acid peeling

Influencing the skin with acids, you need to be extremely careful and accurate. If you make a mistake with the concentration of acid or overexpose it on the skin, you can get unpleasant consequences in the form of burns of an unforeseen degree.

  1. When using acid peeling purchased at a pharmacy or a specialty store, strictly follow the principle of action indicated in the instructions.
  2. Do not keep the composition on the skin for longer than the indicated time in order to obtain a more noticeable effect.
  3. Before starting peeling, prepare the skin for this procedure, as described above.
  4. During the procedure, be sure to protect your eyes (use cotton pads).
  5. Be sure to use an acid neutralizer, not all formulations can be washed off with plain water.
  6. Stay out of the sun after exfoliation and protect your skin with UV rays with a high SPF.

Skin care after acid peel

So, the daily use of sunscreen compositions is one of the most important components of skin care after acid peeling. This procedure should be performed at least 7-10 days after peeling. Try to less "expose" your skin to the open sun.

The result after acid peeling is not noticeable immediately after the procedure, but after a few days, when the skin loses redness and swelling, its relief normalizes, peeling disappears and pigmentation disappears. And the use of a nourishing regenerating cream in the first weeks after the procedure can help the skin to renew itself and rejuvenate as soon as possible.

For maximum efficiency, acid peeling is carried out in courses - up to 8-12 times per course with breaks of several weeks (depending on the intensity of the procedure).

Acid peeling: price of the procedure

In Russia, the price of an acid peeling procedure depends on the acid composition used, the intensity of the procedure (superficial, medium, deep), the region, the reputation of the beauty salon and the master. On average, the price for one session ranges from 1200 to 3000 rubles.

Hello, dear readers of the site.

Peeling with fruit acids is one of the most common cosmetic procedures in a beauty salon. And not in vain, because such peeling can solve many problems of the condition of our skin. But unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to visit a beautician, this is not at all a cheap pleasure. In order for the effect to be noticeable, you need to go through a whole course of peelings, and then also reinforce the result.

Fruit acids are so popular that many cosmetics manufacturers have begun to produce products with acids in the form of creams, lotions, masks, and the same peels and rolls. The most famous products with acids are Korean for me, and I had a Korean roll with AHA acids, which did not give me such a result as home acid peeling, which I want to tell you about.

By home acid peel I mean peeling with citric acid at home. You can also use lemon juice. These are all acids that help remove dead skin cells, dissolve dirt inside the pores, brighten the skin, nourish it with useful substances and, in addition, narrow the pores.

For me, this is the fastest and most radical way to get rid of blackheads, which I have been using for a long time and my skin tolerates it normally. Of course, I use a variety of cosmetic products and of course I try to solve the problem from the inside. But they do not give the results that I would like.

Lemon is a storehouse of useful substances for our skin, such as:

Even pineapple can be used as an acid peel, but it's not as affordable as lemon.

  • for skin with clogged pores (blackheads);
  • for tired facial skin;
  • for problem skin.

I myself use it to combat blackheads, prevent their appearance and deep cleanse the skin.

Contraindications for lemon peeling.

Please take the contraindication very seriously, because there are quite a few of them. Citric acid is a rather aggressive substance. Yes, this method suited me and my skin, my skin tolerates it well. But we are all individual, we all have different features and skin types, and such “self-treatment” can do more harm than good.

Peeling with citric acid and lemon will not work:

  • for dry skin;
  • for sensitive skin;
  • for skin prone to irritation;
  • for skin on which there are any rashes or pimples (even if there are few of them);
  • if you are allergic to citrus fruits.

After peeling, you do not need to go out into the sun, especially in summer - after the interaction of the skin with ultraviolet light, pigment spots may appear

If you still decide to repeat "my method", then first try it on a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe face and look at the reaction of your skin. If you feel even the slightest discomfort, burning sensation - this method is not for you.

How often do I do homemade acid peels. Since this is a rather harsh procedure, it is often not possible to use it. I resort to it when I want to quickly remove blackheads. Yes, I want fast results! After I achieve the desired result, I support it with the help of various cosmetic products, and most importantly - high-quality and systematic facial cleansing!

How do I do an acid peel with lemon.

This is a very easy procedure that does not require a lot of money, time and effort. To do this, just buy a lemon or a bag of citric acid.

  1. before the procedure preferably steam out the skin in order to reveal

our pores. When the pores are open, it is easier to clean them of any dirt. Then the lemon will work better and nourish the skin with useful substances deeper.

Also, such a peeling is good to do after a bath, sauna, taking a bath or shower.

How do I steam out my skin? In boiling water, I throw a bag of chamomile or other herbs. It is possible without chamomile, but it also has the ability to cleanse the skin.


After that, I remove the saucepan from the stove, put it in front of me, lean over the steam, while covering myself with a towel. So I sit for about 7 minutes. During this time, the skin will steam out well and you can proceed to the next step.

The more clogged the pores, the longer it takes to steam the face.

These are the blackheads I have now. But these are only the remnants of black dots, they are not even visible in life. But macro photography betrays them mercilessly. I was surprised by the photo.


2. After steaming, I I wash my face with hydrosol to remove any loose dirt. The first time after steaming, you will be able to see the dirt on the cotton pad, which was inside the pores all the time.

3. On the prepared skin, I apply lemon juice or citric acid, depending on what I decided to use for peeling. I wear only on areas with black dots (T-zone). I apply lemon juice with a cotton pad, and citric acid with my fingertips. I don’t rub or massage anything, but just keep it for about 1 minute. No burning sensation can be tolerated, as soon as it appears, you must immediately wash everything off.

Now I applied citric acid to the skin.


After peeling, the skin turns red, but this soon disappears for me. and the forehead becomes as before.


Lemon tightens pores, but to be sure, I always rub the skin with ice cubes, which I always have in the refrigerator.


After an acid peel, it would be nice to make some kind of soothing mask.

And at the very end, be sure you need to apply moisturizer. I apply a cream that also dissolves blackheads.

Results after acid peel:

  • pores are cleansed, black dots become noticeably smaller;
  • pores shrink and become less noticeable;
  • the skin becomes smooth and even;
  • lemon or citric acid whitens acne spots;
  • the complexion is evened out, the skin looks healthier and more radiant.

In the photo, my skin after only one peeling procedure. For a more noticeable result, one procedure is of course not enough. It needs to be done in a course.


Well, before and after photos.

The black dots really became smaller and brighter. And this is not surprising, citric acid simply eats away dirt from the pores, cleansing them.

Among the most effective cosmetic ingredients: AHA and BHA acids, retinoids and peptides. Today I will tell you in great detail about all the nuances of acid peels, and I will give an answer to the question: "HOW TO TRANSFORM THE SKIN?". With the beginning of autumn, the topic of acid peels becomes the most relevant, so read carefully and arm yourself with valuable knowledge. There are many letters ahead of you, but a detailed and consistent theory is the key to successful practice.

2. Types of peels

4. Indications for use

9. Side effects

10. Rules for post-peel care

11. Expected result (part 2)
12. Prices for peels (part 2)
13. A short story about my first experience with acid peels (part 2).

1. Acid peeling: mechanism of action

Chemical peeling is a procedure for removing the surface layers of the skin epithelium using weak acid solutions.

The peeling procedure is a serious procedure, which requires indications, consideration of contraindications, execution according to the manufacturer's instructions and special care after it.

To understand exactly how acids help the skin stay in good shape, you need to remember the structure of the skin.

The skin is made up of 3 layers:

1. Epidermis- this is the uppermost thin layer, in which metabolic processes are very intensive, as well as the growth and reproduction of epithelial cells. It is necessary to protect the body from various harmful substances and microbes.

2. Dermis- consists of two layers: papillary and reticular. It is here that the fibers that support the elasticity and smoothness of the skin are located - collagen and elastin. The dermis is also rich in nerve endings and blood vessels.

3. Hypodermis or subcutaneous fat- in this layer between the fibers of the connective tissue are lipocytes (fat cells). The purpose of the hypodermis is to protect a person from the temperature effects of the environment.

The use of acids with varying degrees of aggressiveness allows you to have a targeted effect on certain layers of the skin and get the desired effect. The body's response to acid is the activation of recovery processes: cells begin to grow and divide intensively. In fact, when exposed to acids on the skin, a chemical burn occurs. The depth of the burn depends on the concentration and type of acid, exposure and individual characteristics. The stronger the burn, the faster and more intense the recovery processes will proceed.

Thus, it is not the peel itself that improves the condition of the skin. Peeling damages the skin and stimulates protective and regenerative processes in the tissues, as a result of which the synthesis of collagen and elastin is stimulated, which means that the skin is renewed, its tone and elasticity increase. At the same time, general rejuvenation, smoothing of skin tone, narrowing of pores, improvement of skin texture are externally observed, and in the case of problem skin, inflammatory elements and post-acne gradually heal, etc.

2. Types of peels

According to the depth of impact on the skin layers, peels are divided into:

1. Superficial peeling . Removes partially or completely only the epidermis. It is these peels that can be carried out both at the beautician’s and at home. They are the most painless, recovery is gradual, but not long. Superficial peels have a cumulative effect. The maximum result can be observed after the completion of the course of procedures.

2. Median peeling affects not only the epidermis, but also the dermis, which leads to a pronounced rejuvenating effect. Requires a certain recovery period. Median should be carried out by professional specialists - cosmetologists.

3. Deep peeling affects all layers of the skindown to the base layer. He is carried out only in a medical institution, so this procedure refers to surgical manipulations. The rehabilitation period lasts from one month to six months.With this type of acid exposure, you can remove not only wrinkles, but also scars.

Depending on the type of acids, there are:
1. Peeling based alpha hydroxy acids (ANA)

1.1. glycolic acid ( glycolic acid ), isolated from sugar cane;

1.2. lactic acid ( lactic acid ), obtained from milk;

1.3. mandelic acid ( mandelic acid ), isolated from bitter almond extract;

1.4. citric acid (citric acid) - from oranges and lemons;

1.5. tartaric acid (tartaric acid) - from the waste of winemaking, grapes, grape wine, oranges, potatoes, cucumbers.
1.6. Apple acid ( malic acid ) - from apples and pears;

1.7. pyruvic acid (piruvic acid) - from f ruktov, honey, vinegar, as well as from tartaric and lactic acids.

2. Based peelsbeta hydroxy acids (BHA)

2.1. salicylic acid ( salicylic acid) isolated from willow bark (the Latin name for willow is salix). Do not be surprised, but this acid is a derivative of aspirin!I plan to write a separate post about all types of acids in more detail.

Names a alpha hydroxy acids reflects the primary natural source in which the substance was found. Therefore, in cosmetology they are often called fruit acids.

Important difference between AHA and BHA:

. AHAs are water-soluble acids and work best on the surface of the skin. Used to eliminate pigmentation (freckles, age spots). More suitable for owners of normal, dry or sun-damaged skin.

. BHA is a fat-soluble acid, therefore it penetrates deeper into the skin, can exfoliate the surface layer of the skin, and also penetrate into the pores (it dissolves in the fat layer). Therefore, it is more preferable for combination and oily skin, prone to the formation of inflammatory elements and blockage of pores.

3. Factors affecting the effect of peeling

There are four interrelated factors on which the strength of peeling depends:
1) The concentration of acids (from 1% to 70%).

2) pH level (from 1 to 4)

3) Type of acid

4) The form of the product (cream, gel, liquid)

The percentage of acid and pH are decisive. The higher the % acid and the lower the pH, the stronger the peeling. The lower the % acid and the higher the pH, the softer it is.

Working concentration and pH for BHA acids: 0.5-2% at pH 3-4. When pH exceeds 4, the effectiveness of BHA decreases and salicylic acid turns into nothing more than a great moisturizing ingredient and nothing more.
Working concentration and pH for AHA acids: from 4% at pH 3-4. At low concentrations (less than 3%), AHAs work as water-binding agents. An AHA-based product with a pH of more than 4 stops exfoliating, but will actively moisturize.

Acids differ from each other in the size of the molecule, the depth of penetration and the "softness" of the work. For example, salicylic acid is strong, active and is used in small concentrations. Whereas mandelic acid is very mild, does not cause sun sensitivity and can be used even on very sensitive skin.
Acid concentration ratio: approximately 30% glycolic acid = 40% lactic acid = 10% salicylic acid in strength.

The thicker the peel, the softer it is. A cream or thick gel will work softer than an aqueous or alcohol solution. Peels in liquid form penetrate deeper. In addition, it is more difficult to control the depth of penetration of water-alcohol peels than gel and cream ones.

4. Indications for use

Carrying out acid peels is now very popular and many people consider this procedure as a panacea for solving all skin problems. But, in fact, peeling is a cosmetic procedure, which also has its indications, limitations and contraindications.

Indications for acid peels:
The presence of signs of aging (decrease in skin elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles), dull complexion, prevention of aging

Etc rough skin of the face
The consequences of acne treatment, post-acne
The presence of acne, juvenile acne, comedones
Skin hyperpigmentation

The presence of superficial scars or stretch marks on the skin

Enlarged pores
Irregularities in the external relief of the skin
Hyperkeratosis (hardening of the epidermis) of various origins
Presence of seborrheic dermatitis
Dehydration, dryness
Availability to ontogious mollusk

Preparation for mesotherapy and plastic surgery.


It should be remembered that peeling by itself cannot clean black plugs from pores, mechanical or hardware cleaning will be needed, and superficial peeling will not be able to eliminate cosmetic skin defects.

5. Contraindications and warnings

Peelings cannot be carried out:

With exacerbation of acne or any other active inflammatory process on the skin of the face

With exacerbation of herpes and other infectious diseases

With elevated body temperature, acute respiratory and viral diseases

In violation of the integrity of the skin (the presence of wounds, abrasions, burns on the skin)

With critical deviations of the skin condition from the norm (dryness, intense inflammation, irritation, thinning)
During traumatic procedures (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing)less than 2 months before the start of the peeling course

When you take medicines containing roaccutane (an acne medicine) ordrugs that increase sensitivity to the sun, immunosuppressants

With cancer, hypertension, asthma

With allergic rashes on the skin of the face

In the presence of rosacea, hypersensitivity of the skin, telangiectasia, psoriasis,

keloid sutures

With an abundance of birthmarks on the application area, especially if they are large(they are not peeled)
When d long exposure to the sun and a fresh tan

In the presence of increased individual sensitivity to peeling components

During pregnancy and breastfeeding, while the use of any products with salicylic acid should be avoided, because. it has been established that it can affect the development of the fetus, while products with aha acids are not recommended due to the risk of pigmentation.
With rosacea should apply s o cautionbecause this can lead to aggravation of its manifestations.

Precautions when doing an acid peel at home :

In no case should you peel at home with preparations intended for salon use! In this case, you can get skin burns and other serious consequences, because. the concentration of active ingredients in salon cosmetics is higher than in products for home use, and procedures must be carried out under the supervision of a specialist.
E If you are unsure whether a peel will be beneficial for YOUR skin, please consult a beautician and/or dermatologist.

Peeling must be carried out strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions, very carefully and carefully, after conducting a skin reaction test.behind the ear or on the wrist.You need to apply and hold the product exactly as much as indicated on the package / in the instructions
Before buying, make sure that you have indications and no contraindications for its use, choose the type of peeling taking into account the type and condition of the skin, the time spent in the sun .

6. Pre-peel skin preparation

If you are going to start a course of superficial peels at home or plan to contact a cosmetologist for a medium or deep peel, then you need to start preparing for this in advance. skin . Preparation in this case is a very important point and it consists in the daily use of acidic agents.

You need to start preparing the skin 1-2 weeks before the peeling procedure, and preferably a month in advance, so that the skin has time to get used to the action of acids. Incorrect preparation can cause the chemical peel to not be deep enough or, on the contrary, to be too deep and painful.

For preparation, you can use cosmetics with a small percentage of acids (6-12%) and high enough pH- cleansers, serums, creams, soft pre-peels.

For AHA acids, the minimum effective indicators for a daily remedy are 5-8% at pH 3-4.
For BHA acids (salicylic) - 1-2% at pH 3-4, for heavily soiled skin with a large number of comedones - up to 5% with a lower pH.

7. Features of the use of acid peels

Exposure to acids is a procedure that requires special attention and accuracy. After all, if you make a mistake with the concentration of acid or exposure, the consequences can be quite unpleasant.

Places of application. Acid peeling can be used both on small areas - wrinkles around the mouth and eyes ("crow's feet"), on the cheeks with pigmentation changes - and on the entire face, neck, as well as on other areas of the body that are often exposed to sunlight, for example, on chest (decollete), on the hands.It can be applied under the eyes and on the nasolabial folds, but very carefully, for a shorter time and, possibly, in lower concentrations. Only at your own risk! Because can be very dry and even burn delicate skin.

Age. The procedure can be recommended at any age, with the exception of children. Peeling can be prescribed for teenagers in case of acne.

Seasonality of the event. The best time to peel is from November to mid-April when the sun is at its lowest.
It is not necessary to carry out the procedure before the holidays, as well as immediately after it - let the skin recover a little.

Periodicity. The effect of the procedure becomes noticeable after the first session: the skin acquires smoothness, even color, velvety. To achieve maximum results, you need to repeat the procedure at least 7 times. But remember that 10 sessions is the maximum length of the acid peel course. The number of sessions depends on the type of skin and the type of problems being solved.
During the course between peeling procedures should take 7-15 days. D
For oily, problematic, oily and combination skin, the interval can be along the lower limit, for dry and sensitive skin - the interval along the upper limit.

Mild acid products can be used between peels to maintain the effect.

acid concentration. If you have just decided to start using peels, then start with small doses, observe how the drug affects your skin, if there are any unpleasant reactions. If everything is in order, the concentration of the drug can be gradually increased. Irritation on the skin does not necessarily occur immediately, it may appear after more or less prolonged use of acid products. Then the provoking drug must be postponed for a while. Those with thin, dry skin are always more sensitive to acids than those with oily skin.

8. Algorithm for the peeling procedure

The peeling procedure itself takes 10-60 minutes.

Stage I: Skin pre-cleansing from make-up residues, its degreasing, restoration of the pH level of the skin. The cleanser should not contain soap or other alkaline products, because this will change the pH of the skin and significantly impair the peeling effect. Dry the application area thoroughly, as to avoid burns, the skin must be dry.

Stage II: Application of the peeling mixture.

One procedure will require 1-2 ml of peeling liquid. Peeling is poured into a clean, dry container, from where it will be applied.

Peeling can be applied with a brush, cotton buds or cotton pads.

Peeling is preferably applied to the skin from less sensitive to more sensitive areas in the following sequence: forehead, nose, temples, lateral surface of the cheeks, neck, chin, central part of the face and finally the fixed part of the face.

If you still decide to take a chance and apply peeling to the area around the eyes, then you need to step back from the ciliary edge of the upper eyelid by 1 cm and from the lower eyelid by 0.5 cm.
If acid gets into the eyes, rinse them very thoroughly with plenty of water.

The process of applying the mixture may be accompanied by a tingling or slight burning sensation. It is this stage that requires careful monitoring. With each subsequent layer, it is necessary to carefully monitor the reaction of the skin to the components of chemical peeling.

The peeling procedure must be stopped if you notice at least one of the following signs:

Appearance of visible mild erythema (redness).

Unbearable burning sensation, even if there are no external visible manifestations.

The end of the peeling time (according to the instructions).

For each acid with different % content and pH, the exposure time of peeling on the skin can last from 2 to 15 minutes maximum. For the skin of the eyelids - from 30-40 seconds, up to 2 minutes maximum. In any case, carefully read the manufacturer's instructions and follow the recommended exposure time.

Stage III: Neutralization.

The action of the peeling agent is neutralized by a special solution, which also moisturizes and tones the skin after an exfoliation session. The neutralizer can be held for 1-3 minutes. Only after that, wash off the remnants of the funds from the skin with water at room temperature.

If the acid is washed off during peeling without prior neutralization, burns may appear on the skin of the face.

Stage IV: Post-peel measures.

After an acid burn, which is peeling, the skin needs special care. Following the flushing of the neutralizer a moisturizing cream is applied, preferably with soothing and regenerating components. For this purpose, you can apply aloe vera gel under cream or instead of cream. From my experience, I really enjoy applying aloe gel.vera as a mask on the face: the first layer of aloe vera, as it dries, the second layer on top, then repeat 1-2 more times until the skin calms down, then rinse and apply the cream.

If you have run out of or do not have a neutralizer, then you can make it at home: dissolve a teaspoon of soda with a small slide in half a glass of boiled water, wet a cotton pad, wring it out a little and wipe your face with wetting movements. The solution must be prepared before starting the peeling procedure.

9. Side effects


Increased skin sensitivity (due to thinning of the epidermis), including increased photosensitivity (sensitivity to the sun);
skin irritation, symptoms of which may include redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly even scarring

Peeling is considered a normal skin reaction after peeling, because.directly shows how actively the process of cell renewal takes place. Itcan last up to 10 days. However, not all acids cause visible peeling, salicylic acid stimulates it most of all, while after glycolic and milk peels, peeling occurs extremely rarely.

With proper care, all discomfort disappears within 1-3 days. If during this time the side effects do not go away, you should definitely consult a specialist. In case of acute reactions, you should not wait three days, but contact immediately for professional assistance.

10. Rules for post-peel care

Rule one. MOISTURIZING.

After acid peeling, the skin has lost a certain amount of moisture, so it is necessary to use moisturizing creams that will eliminate the feeling of tightness and prevent fluid loss. Any special means after superficial peelings are usually not required. But for the best moisturizing and regenerating effect, pay attention to care products with hyaluronic acid, natural oils, vitamins, aloe, algae, centella, arnica, chamomile, calendula, panthenol and lipids.
In case of irritation, redness or severe peeling, you can use soothing and deeply moisturizing products.

Rule two. UV PROTECTION.

Thinned skin must be protected from the effects of sunlight. To do this, use a sunscreen that protects against UVB and UVA rays (SPF factor of at least 25). It is also desirable not to be outside for a long time, not to visit the solarium, and to refrain from sunbathing for a month.

Rule three. MAINTAINING THE EFFECT WITH MEANS WITH A LOW PERCENTAGE OF ACIDS.
To consolidate the achieved result in the post-peeling period (preferably after the peeling course), you can use cosmetics with acids in low concentrations. It can be a serum, tonic, cleanser, mask, etc. This will help maintain a healthy complexion and reduce the activity of the sebaceous glands.

Rule four. WITHDRAWAL OF SOME COSMETICS AND PROCEDURES.
For the period of the peeling course aboutlimit any aggressive skin treatments such as mechanical scrubs, alcohol-based products, it is also advisable to avoid products with retinoids so as not to thin the skin too much. Prefer gentle cleansing with micellar water, hydrophilic oils or milk with plant extracts.
During the period of pling, you also need to abandon any cosmetic procedures that can injure the skin.

If crusts appear on the skin after peeling, in no case do not remove them yourself, but lubricate them with cream. Avoid touching your face with your hands to avoid infection.

Do not plan important events for the period of the peeling course. Decorative cosmetics do not always hide redness, it is better to limit its use in the recovery period.
It is very important to understand that acid peeling removes the protective layer from the skin, so additional procedures that can have the same effect should be excluded.

So gThe main task of post-peel care is to reduce the feeling of discomfort, preventive procedures to prevent side effects and complications, stimulate the regenerative process, protect the skin, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory therapy..

Professional chemical exfoliation is an expensive pleasure, an alternative to which is peeling for the face with acids at home. The effect of independently performed procedures will not be as radical and fast as that of salon techniques. But home peels using natural acids are still able to maintain the beauty of the face and prolong youth. We will learn how to do acid peeling yourself and what rules you need to follow when choosing a procedure.

The nuances of chemical exfoliation for the home

Skin cleansing with chemical peels is based on the unique properties of acids suitable for cosmetic purposes. For safe exfoliation in the salon, only organic or synthesized acids are used, the concentration of which in professional products does not exceed 15-35%. For home peels, it is better to limit the use of fruit and lactic acids from natural foods or pharmaceutical preparations.

Depending on the degree of impact of acid on the skin of the face, cosmetologists divide peels into superficial, medium and deep. The last two types are not suitable for home exfoliation: such radical beauty procedures initially cause significant damage to the skin, so it is better to entrust their implementation to a professional. During medium, and even deeper chemical peels, the action of acid solutions and the number of layers of the peeling agent should be controlled - manipulations require certain knowledge and skills in cosmetology. Otherwise, the result of the procedure may not be the elimination of aesthetic defects, but their aggravation.

Acid peeling at home can only be superficial. This gentle procedure gently affects the upper layer of the keratinized epidermis without affecting the dermis and subcutaneous fat. The concentration of natural acids is enough to “dissolve” dead cells and stimulate the natural process of restoring the protective barrier. In response to a slight “injury”, the epidermis begins to double the production of collagen and elastin protein filaments that form the skin frame. Destroyed old cells give way to elastic skin already without previous defects, the previously dull complexion evens out and acquires a healthy shade, pigmentation brightens, inflammation and acne rashes become less, the work of the sebaceous glands normalizes.

Unlike salon procedures, mild home peeling with natural acids does not cause redness, and even more so chemical burns of the skin. After such exfoliation, the skin returns to normal within 5 days. Therefore, sometimes acid peels for the face at home replace the usual scrubs, gommages and masks, the effect of which is not so long.

Homemade acids and skin age

Self-exfoliation of the skin with acids at home should be properly selected according to the type and age of the skin. Throughout their lives, women are concerned about various aesthetic problems, which can be solved with single-component and multi-acid peels.

Young skin

At the age of 20-25 years, light chemical peels allow you to cope with inflammatory rashes, blockage and stretching of pores, comedones, painful pimples, acne, and excessive greasiness of the face.

As the main ways to care for young skin, cosmetologists recommend surface fruit, salicylic and glycol peels, which are performed independently without risk to appearance.

Peeling with fruit acids is one of the simple, affordable and effective exfoliations that allow you to get rid of "teenage" complexes. The composition for it can be prepared at home. To do this, you need to grate and mix fresh fruits or berries: apples, grapes, strawberries, blackcurrants, lemon. Natural fruit acids have a disinfectant, antioxidant and brightening effect. The only rule of such acid peeling is to observe the exposure time on the face of a delicious composition - no more than 15-20 minutes. You can repeat the fruit peeling procedure weekly.

For gentle salicylic peeling in a pharmacy or cosmetic store, a ready-made composition is purchased. Salicylic acid is a proven and mild keratolytic agent that dissolves keratin (the dense top layer of the epidermis). Home salicylic peeling gently destroys the keratinized epidermis, while providing an antiseptic and antibacterial effect on the skin. A solution of salicylic acid will narrow the pores, ease the course of acne and make age spots less noticeable.

Home peeling with glycolic acid is also a gentle way to cleanse the skin of the face. The safety of the procedure is associated with the properties of glycolate molecules: due to the micron size, the particles of the compound quickly penetrate into the skin cells without violating its integrity. Glycolic acid intensively moisturizes the skin from the inside, removes toxins and starts rejuvenation processes. The results of home glycol peeling are noticeable after the first procedure: sebaceous plugs disappear, the skin becomes matte, and the complexion is healthy.

maturing skin

At the age of 25-35, acid peeling at home becomes the main tool in the fight against age-related skin changes: a network of small mimic wrinkles that form into "crow's feet" around the eyes and lips, loss of elasticity, increased dryness and dullness, light brown age spots. For a long time, only serious cosmetic techniques will help to erase traces of age from the face, for which it is better to contact a specialized clinic or beauty salon. Home acid exfoliation for maturing skin becomes only a good support.

Mixtures for peeling with lactic acid are easy to prepare yourself. Skin cells absorb "milk" molecules well, so such exfoliation will not result in allergies or other side effects. A course of homemade milk peeling procedures will smooth out shallow facial wrinkles, lighten pigmentation, saturate the skin with moisture and increase tone.

Peeling with retinoic acid for home use is recommended with caution, although for maturing skin it is the best superficial technique. Retinol - a synthetic "twin" of vitamin A - is not rejected by the cells of the epidermis, so yellow exfoliation rarely causes allergies. Retinoic peeling composition is a universal antiseptic and antioxidant. The result of its action lasts up to 4 months. Retinol is a universal anti-aging agent, a real panacea for women over 30 years old. It is not difficult to prepare a retinoic peeling mixture at home, the main thing is to clearly follow the annotations to the components of the composition and not to part with the procedures.

Home peeling with acids for mature skin is recommended only as an intermediate care between cosmetic lifting, thread reinforcement or plastic surgery. Self-prepared formulations are powerless against deep wrinkles, scars, sagging and hyperpigmentation of the skin. But they help to refresh the complexion and soften the skin.

Prohibitions for home peeling with acids

Despite the safety and softness of superficial procedures, acid peeling for the face at home should not be performed in case of:

  • if the skin has unhealed wounds, abrasions, cracks, painful ulcers;
  • exacerbation of the herpes virus;
  • confirmed oncological diseases;
  • diabetes;
  • development of dermatological ailments: vitiligo, psoriasis, eczema, etc.;
  • individual intolerance to the ingredients of the peeling composition;
  • pregnancy and breastfeeding period;
  • disruption of the endocrine system, hormonal disruptions;
  • many birthmarks on the face;
  • hypersensitivity and dry skin.

Step by step instructions for home procedure

If you have already decided on the type of acid and its exposure time to correct facial skin imperfections, follow this sequence of the home acid exfoliation procedure:

  • before peeling, remove decorative cosmetics from the face and degrease the skin with alcohol wipes for injection;
  • apply the acid composition to the skin with a wide brush or cotton pad, avoid getting the product on the delicate skin of the upper and lower eyelids;
  • after 20 minutes, remove the remnants of the peeling mixture from the skin with mineral water or a special neutralizer;
  • soothe irritated skin with a light nourishing cream, moisturizing mask or serum.

If exfoliation involves the application of an acid peel in several layers, carefully observe the reaction of the skin. In case of severe stinging or itching, remove the mixture from the face.

Natural home peels

Homemade acid peeling can be self-made from ordinary fresh fruits and berries, or a ready-made complex of acids and neutralizers purchased at a pharmacy. The second option is suitable for experienced clients of beauty salons who have the opportunity to consult with their beautician about the choice of product, the number of procedures and possible consequences. Fruit and milk peels based on natural ingredients can be mixed in 15 minutes. Read more about how you can do acid peeling with your own hands.

Sour cream peeling with strawberries

  • 4 fresh or frozen strawberries;
  • 4 drops of almond oil;
  • ½ tablespoon 15% sour cream;
  • 1 tsp potato starch.
  1. mix all the ingredients of the peeling composition;
  2. apply the resulting mixture on the face with a thin layer;
  3. repeat the application after 5 minutes;
  4. wash off the peeling with warm water after 15 minutes;
  5. moisturize the skin with a cream or mask.

Peeling grapes

  • 5 grapes;
  • 2 tbsp. mineral water of medium carbonation.
  1. grind the grapes into a homogeneous gruel;
  2. apply the resulting peeling mixture on the face;
  3. after 15 minutes, wash off the composition with mineral water;
  4. soothe the skin with a mask or moisturizer.

Sour-milk peeling with oatmeal

  • 1 tbsp yogurt or curdled milk;
  • 5 drops of 4% lactic acid solution;
  • 1 tsp crushed oatmeal.
  1. mix the components of the peeling composition until a homogeneous consistency;
  2. apply the resulting "gruel" on the face with light massage movements;
  3. leave peeling for 15 minutes;
  4. wash off the composition with warm water;
  5. moisturize the skin of the face with special means.

Easy home cleansing of the face with acid compositions is useful and safe. Superficial natural peels help maintain a fresh complexion and are a good prevention of aging. Acid peels at home can also be performed in courses of 4-6 procedures with an interval between sessions of one week.