Fur coats for men with their own hands. Do-it-yourself slippers pattern from fur: a master class for cutting. What will the slippers be like?

We are used to buying shoes in a store, or sewing to order. But there is a special "cozy" shoes that are sewn by hand. You can easily make such new things as slippers, chuni, sock boots and cloaks (high or short for the house). A variety of materials and colors can be selected to taste.

Burki are winter shoes made of felt, felt or suede. They are indispensable in cold climates.

The lower part - the toe, the vamp, the butt, as well as the lining along the bootleg are often made of leather.

The sole is traditionally rubber or leather.

Reference! For the first time, mass production of burkas was opened in Tsarist Russia at the end of the 19th century.

In the period of the early USSR, cloaks were part of the uniforms of senior officers of the Soviet Army.

Materials and tools

Traditionally for the outside are used:

felt;
drape;
sheepskin;
suede leather;
felt;
overcoat cloth;
dense denim;
oversized knitwear.

As a heater and filler:

batting, pharmacy cotton wool;
felt;
sintepon, holofiber.

Advice! If you use sheepskin, then there is no need for insulation, it is enough to cut out the details from the skin with the fur inside.

We will need:

Main material. You can use an old coat or a sheepskin coat that has gone out of use.
Finished rubber outsole. You can buy slippers and rip off their soles. For the indoor option, felt from old thick felt boots is perfect. It is also permissible to put a piece of thick leather or rubber on the sole of a cloak.
Bias binding or rep tape for edging cuts. Knitted stripes, 3 cm wide, are perfect.
Dense material for an insole, or a ready insole. The ideal option is sheepskin.
Filler - synthetic winterizer, batting, old coat. If you want to sew a warm option for a cold winter, then make double cloaks with insulation.

Advice! The inner layer of buroks can be made removable by sewing thin liners one at a time. For convenience, sew Velcro tape on the liners and main parts.

Strong threads, preferably nylon.
Tape - Velcro (Velcro), connects the cloaks with the insert.

The material used is traditionally light: white, beige, gray, coffee. Children come in bright colors.

Required tools and fixtures:

tailor's (furrier's) knife;
ruler;
tape measure;
shoe or rubber glue.

Taking measurements

To build a pattern, we need the following measurements:

Foot length.
Foot width. We measure according to the outline of the foot outlined on paper. If you are not using a ready-made sole, it is better to take several measurements. With the features of the foot - a protruding bone, a non-standard shape.

Shaft height. It is determined from the floor level to the estimated height of the product.
Foot circumference. There are several options, if you need the most comfortable boots, then we use all three measurements. It is also advisable to measure at what distance from each other you laid the measuring tape.

patterns

Model 1 - the simplest cloak-boots like a stocking

They consist of only three parts, the left and right halves of the cloaks, as well as the sole. They are cut out freely, since the front part is not provided separately.

To build a pattern like this you can use a large size wool sock:

Circle it, compare with the measurements obtained. The most important thing here is not to make the workpiece too small.
For the pattern of the sole, circle the foot on a piece of paper, add 1-2 cm for a loose fit.
If you are making double insulated cloaks, then the pattern of the liner should be slightly, 0.5 cm, smaller in all respects than the pattern of the main product.
When cutting the left and right halves, as well as the sole, do not forget to make these parts mirrored.
The sole can also be made multi-layered, with insulation.
In this model, we make the sole from the main material, if desired, it duplicates the finished rubber.

Cut out with scissors

Progress:

We place the details on the fabric, we trim, if we cut from fabric, then do not forget about the allowances for the seams.

Important! We do not make allowances for seams in products made of sheepskin, other fur, natural leather.

Cut out with scissors or a knife.
Similarly, we cut out the parts from the insulation and lining material.
We fold the blanks face to face, fix with pins.

We are sewing.
We apply and fix the sole with pins.

Sew on the sole.
We turn the bootleg outward, that is, on the wrong side in our case, the side.
We sew the bend.
We twist.

We glue or sew an additional rough sole.
We decorate.
Trying on.

Short cloaks with insulation

Model 2 - cropped cloaks with front tongue insert

An interesting model that deserves attention.

Important! According to this pattern, you can sew cloaks of any height, simply by lengthening the one-piece bootleg, or by making it stitched.

Pattern:

We need to know the length of the sidewall, as well as the height of the toe and heel.
Knowing these measurements, we build a drawing of the sidewall. The length of the upper part is equal to the girth of the lower part of the shaft, minus the width of the insert, after which, divided by two.
The pattern is given for slippers, if necessary, we make a drawing of the shaft: 1 piece with a fold, the height of which is equal to the required height of the shaft, and the width is its girth.
The drawing of the insert is a tongue rounded in the front, its width is chosen at will, but on average - 5-10 cm, depending on the size of the shoe. In the widest part - twice as wide as in the narrow one.
Add the required number of cm for the height of the shaft.

Progress:

We cut out the details.
Basic cutting operations as in the previous model. Optionally, we make the model two-layer.
We sew the sidewalls along the narrow central part. You can make one piece with a fold.
We connect the details of the sidewalls and inserts from the wrong side to the wrong side.
We fix with pins.
We sew on the front side.
We sew with finishing tapes.
Sew the seam along the back side on the wrong side.
We work with the sole in the same way as the previous model.
We twist.
We attach a thick sole.

Fur slippers with decor

Decor can be customized to your liking. Create and give a good mood to your loved ones!

Burochki are indispensable shoes for both winter walks and indoor use. Interestingly decorated, they can be a great gift for loved ones.

You can make slippers-half boots with your own hands. To do this, we need: natural or artificial fur, coat fabric, felt for the sole or bootleg from boots.

Fur can be taken from a used fur coat. For many, such a product hangs in the closet, gathers dust and takes up space. Surely many have a coat left over from their grandmother. It's a pity to throw it away, but no one wears it. This outerwear can be used to give a second life to good things. If there is no beautiful coat fabric for the top of the slippers, then you can find any dense material, cut a cut out of it, and sew a beautiful and thin one over this unsightly cut. You can always find a way if you want.

A little about fur for slippers. It is best to use natural. Sheepskin is the best material! It is an excellent antiseptic, and it perfectly removes moisture. In sheepskin products, it is recommended to walk without socks!

Patterns for our slippers are made from a second-hand slipper or boot. Carefully cut the product chosen for the pattern. Circle the resulting details on thick paper and cut out. On the side of the patterns that you just circled, put 1 with a pencil. This is in order not to make a mistake with the future cut (right or left slippers). The reverse side of the patterns, therefore, for a paired product.

Lay out the made patterns on the selected fur. Holding the pattern with one hand, circle it and cut it out. We will do the same work with coat fabric.

You can sew details (cut) on a typewriter and manually. The fur details of the cut must be overlapped. This is done so that in the finished product the seam is invisible to the touch and does not rub the leg.

The cut of the top of the slipper is sewn with a "butterfly".

When the fur and the top of the slipper are sewn, we insert the fur into the top and sew the details to each other along the top and bottom.

The next stage of our work will be the manufacture of the crane. It is best made from leather. We cut out strips with a length equal to the circumference of the sole of the slipper and add another one or two centimeters for overlap stitching. The width of the strip is 3 cm. We sew this strip on the bottom of the workpiece.

You can take the sole. It is recommended to cut it out of thick felt or from the top of a felt boot. It can be purchased at the store. A felt insole purchased from a store will also work. Cut out the sole with a sharp knife. Let's circle the sole of the slipper we disassembled, if its size suits you. In order to sew the sole evenly, we sew from the heel! We mark with chalk the middle of the heel of the sole and apply it to the back of our workpiece in the place where the transverse seam is. We pierce the krant and felt sole with an awl. We sew with a thick nylon thread to the toe on one side of the slipper. We make a knot in the toe of the product. We sew the product on the other side, also to the toe. The sole is sewn on.

The soles of slippers will last even longer and will not get wet and slip if they are hemmed with corrugated shoe rubber, which can be purchased at the store. When hemming the sole with rubber, firmly and evenly hold it with your fingers together with the felt sole and carefully sew it on.

The last step is as follows. Let's give our product a "trademark". This will require a metal brush or a large comb. The fur on the shaft needs to be combed and fluffed. Bend the top of the slipper to the height you like, and comb the fur at the bend with a comb. Remove the pile of fur from under the threads of the seams with a needle and fluff the fur with a metal brush. The seam will become invisible. Now we can say that one sneaker is ready. The second one does not take long to sew, the work is the same. Mirror image of the first.

The production of such a warm, light and soft pair of shoes, during training, takes 3-4 hours of working time.

A child and an adult will feel comfortable in such shoes. These slippers are comfortable to walk at home in cold weather. Unfolding them, you can go outside.

On graph paper, the pattern is given for size 37-38 of two main parts. The dimensions of the rest of the parts are here in the description.

This is what the pattern itself looks like:

Foot-sole, toe-heel part, a circle - a flower (with a bead in the center) for decoration. The elongated detail is a bunny eye for "Bunnies" slippers

Attention! The same circle is also a hare tail, if someone wants to sew "Bunnies" slippers, the main pattern is the same.

Pattern building:

1. Outsole. We take a sheet of paper, put it on the floor, stand up with our feet and trace our foot :) We trace along the edge holding the pencil evenly, perpendicular to the surface, no need to bend it under the foot. We add about 1.5-2 cm to the length, you can circle autumn shoes without a heel, shoes are best, then without adding centimeters. The length from the center of the toe to the center of the heel for size 37-38 should be 25.5-26 cm, for size 38-39 approximately 26.5 cm. Specify these measurements according to your foot and shoes. We build a pattern of the sole, focusing on the photo, align, round, etc.

An increase in centimeters is needed, because we will insert a synthetic winterizer (or other insulating material), and it "takes" no less than a whole size, and plus some freedom is needed for the leg.

2. Toe-heel part . The length from the center of the sock up the leg to the shaft (the center of the front part) is equal for all sizes from about 12.5 to 14.5 cm, optional !! The height from the center of the heel to the top is 6.5 - 7 cm. Next, we measure our sole pattern (feet) around the perimeter, divide it by two (at the same time we make landmark marks for the center of the heel and toe on the sole itself - this is very useful when assembling parts) and add about 1-1.5 cm for the fit of the toe and a slight fit on the heel. The resulting length should be equal to the bottom line (where we sew to the sole), we build the bottom line as in the photo approximately. The top line is 16-17 cm.

3. A circle for a flower or ponytail I have a diameter of 9-10 cm. Ears are optional, both length and width, I make 4x14 cm.

And this is a pattern of the main details on millimeter paper for size 37-38. Up to size 39 or 36 is easy enough to adjust. Keep in mind that when changing the size, the pattern changes more in length, less in width, that is, not proportionally.

Now about the number of parts for the "Snow White" model, it is sewn from fleece of the same color

Sole- 4 fleece parts, 2 raincoat fabric parts, 2 synthetic winterizer parts (or other insulation but not hard and not very thick, such as thin batting)

As an option: instead of raincoat fabric and synthetic winterizer, you can use ready-made quilted jacket fabric, artificial leather (not thick, soft)

Heel-toe part- 4 fleece parts, 2 synthetic winterizer parts

Shaft- rectangle 18*32 - 4 fleece parts

Note . 32 cm - width and does not change

18 cm - height and varies as desired (and the shape of the top may also not necessarily be straight, fantasize)

Flower- a circle with a diameter of 9-10cm, 6 pieces of fleece

This is what it all looks like after cutting, do not forget to mark the centers and other points of the parts for assembling the boots in the future:

We start assembling parts

When assembling, we combine the marked points - the centers of the parts with the corresponding marks of another part

First, we connect the upper toe-heel part with a synthetic winterizer (insulation) and fasten it with a machine stitch on the edge. Then we assemble the sole like a puff pie simply :) I fasten the sole by hand over the edge, making sure that nothing is warped. You can do it on a typewriter, but then leave a little more in the allowances to align, cut off the excess, if it doesn’t work out exactly, there are still a lot of layers and they are voluminous. Parts with padding polyester are slightly steamed through a damp cloth, lightly !! we accept the synthetic winterizer with an iron.

Further, as in the photo, we connect the toe-heel parts with the shaft, we get 4 connected parts. Then we sew the back seams, leave small pieces unsewn in the lining, see photo, through which we will turn our boots inside out. And after that we sew the soles into all 4 parts.

We turn the upper part of the boot-boot on the right side, leave the inner part - the lining on the left side. Just like in a puppet theater, we put on the upper, front boot on the hand and insert it into the lining, combining the toe with the toe, the heel with the heel, respectively. We also combine the upper sections starting from the back seam, we cut off and give a line.

Through the left, not sewn up sections of the lining, we turn it out, pull it out :) from the inside the boot outward, align, stretch all the seams and sew the open unsewn area in the lining to the edge.

Now we insert the lining inside, align everything, directly put it on the leg, pull-pull wherever you need :). From the inside, I make four fasteners with a thread of the upper part of the boot with a lining so that the lining does not fidget :))

2 fasteners in the toe: at the center of the toe and at the shaft, and two fasten on the heel, where the back seam connects with the sole and shaft.

All!!! Further, your will: flowers, beads, in the center, along the cuff (bend it if you want) on top, etc. In this model "Snow White" there are three flowers in the center, you outline the center directly by putting on the boots on your feet. When sewing flowers, under each flower I make a tuck 1.-1.5 cm, it turns out an easy assembly in front.

The flowers are very easy to assemble: scatter in a circle with a needle and thread, tighten. Pull the needle through the center and over the edge (from the center around the flower and again into the center, pierce the needle and tighten the thread to form petals. This must be done 4 times to get 4 petals. Sew a bead into the middle.

This model is more close to the leg. But the sequence of parts assembly, sewing technology is the same. The other one is just a pattern. I give it to you in size 38-39 on graph paper. Changing the pattern according to the same principle as with the "Snow White" slippers (see above). Here, in the toe part, you need to use a very thin synthetic winterizer, or other thin insulation.

From the same pattern, lengthening to about 50 cm (from the floor) and expanding the bootleg upwards (about 23 cm along the top 1/2 of the bootleg), you can also make homemade boots. The length and width of the bootleg varies according to your desire. The sewing technology is the same as described above. The shaft is assembled by assembly into 4 transverse elastic bands, the elastic bands are sewn at approximately the same distance between them, the distance depends on the length of the shaft. The distance from the last (or first) elastic band to the upper edge of the shaft is 4 cm.

My boots are made of thin fleece, thinner fabric is generally suitable for such boots, but they will look better from velor.

Homemade cloaks

Needless to say, how important light, comfortable, and most importantly, warm shoes are for winter fishing enthusiasts.

During the Great Patriotic War, many wore cloaks, and I decided to sew similar shoes for myself, but not felted or felt, but from more accessible materials.

I wear my cloaks with galoshes, and my wife's cloaks, who are also fond of winter fishing, have rubber soles glued on in the shoe shop. The double lapel on the shaft allows you to lengthen the cloaks by 250-280 millimeters and thus close the knees - this is very convenient if you have to walk in deep snow or kneel on ice.

For 18 years of operation, even in very cold weather, my feet never got cold, although I did not even wear warm socks.

Sewing burkas is easy. They consist of a warm stocking and an outer cover, for which any thick fabric from an old coat or overcoat is suitable.

The stocking is sewn from inner and outer linings, between which lies a warming material. Can be used for lining
any fabric, but it is better to make the inner one from flannel.

As a heater I use batting (preferably wool) or cotton wool. They may not be new, but from an old winter coat.

On fig. 1 shows the cutting details of burok size 41. To make the pattern more accurate, you must first make it on paper and make all the corrections according to the measurement from the leg.

In the foot, I put the batting insulation in five layers, and if the legs are sensitive to cold, then you can add 1-2 more layers. For him, I cut one detail along the B-O-B and V-O-B contours and three details along the G-O-G contour.

I cut out the inner lining along the G-O-G contour with a seam allowance of 10 millimeters and in the G-A-G section with a hem allowance of 15 millimeters.

I cut the outer lining along the G-O-G contour with an allowance of 15 millimeters in the G-B section and 25 millimeters in the B-0 section (the size of the allowance changes in the B-B section, as well as when cutting the cover).

I cut out the cover with an allowance of 25-30 millimeters in the G-B section and 35-40 millimeters in the B-O-B section. For cloaks with lapels, the top of the cover is extended by 250-280 millimeters from the G-A-G line upwards.

I sew the details in the following sequence.

Lay out the outer lining on a flat surface.
on it - two layers of insulation, cut along the G-O-G contour, one layer of insulation V-O-V and B-O-B, then another layer of insulation G-O-G, on top - the inner lining. To keep the cloaks in shape, I sew the assembled “package” on a sewing machine with long stitches or quilt by hand, as shown in fig. 1.

The allowance in the upper part of the inner lining is bent along the G-A-G line outward and stitched together with the outer lining and insulation.

I fold the stocking in half, bending it along the A-O line with the inner lining inward, sew the inner lining along the contour, and then manually along the contour - the outer lining along with the insulation.

In order for the cover to fit snugly to the stocking, it needs to be adjusted. To do this, I put the cover on the stocking with the wrong side out and prick along the contour with pins or sweep, making sure that the cover fits as tightly as possible to the stocking. I check the correctness of the fit by trying on the stocking along with the cover on the leg.

I sew the cover removed from the stocking, cut off the excess material along the contour and iron the seam.

Then I turn the cover on the front side, insert the stocking into it, straighten it well together with the cover at several points in front, behind and along the sole and attach it to the cover along the upper edge of the stocking.

Before putting on galoshes on cloaks, it is advisable to slightly knead the soles of the sewn product. To do this, you need to walk a little in burqas at home on the floor.

Fur slippers not only look beautiful, but also perfectly warm your feet in the cold season. They will especially appeal to children, who sometimes simply cannot be forced to walk around the house in indoor shoes. You can buy soft beautiful slippers or make your own. A fur pattern is not a very difficult task and even beginner needlewomen can do it.

What will the slippers be like?

Before you start making fur slippers, you need to decide how they will look. The easiest way to design ordinary slippers. This will require a little material, and in this case, the pattern of slippers made of fur with your own hands is easy.

You can also make slippers with backs or with an elongated shaft. In such products, even in winter, the legs will be comfortable and warm. True, in this case, fur will require effort and patience, and a little more material will be needed.

improvised materials

To make a pattern, you need to have at hand the right tools and the material from which the products will be sewn. You will need cardboard for making patterns. You also need to prepare a pencil, scissors, chalk, needles and threads in advance. Often, a pattern of do-it-yourself slippers made of fur is based on the measurements obtained, so you will need a tailor's meter for work.

Fur slippers

After preliminary preparations, you can begin to build patterns. Slippers consist of only two parts, so they can be designed in a couple of hours. If a pattern of fur slippers is built with your own hands, it is difficult to guess with the sizes, so it is better to act according to a long-proven scheme. The master class will help to cope with this work:

you need to put your foot on the cardboard and circle it with a pencil;
to the resulting pattern, add 2 cm around the entire circumference;
a sheet is applied to the top of the foot so that it passes from the toes to the instep;
in the place of contact with the floor, the sheet is circled with a pencil;
to the resulting pattern in places where the part will join the sole, you need to add 2 cm;
the details are cut and copied so that the left and right slippers have their own patterns.

When the pattern of slippers made of fur with your own hands is made, you can proceed to further work. The resulting drawings must be laid out on the material, outlined and cut out the details. Since each part is divided into internal and external, then for sewing one slipper you will need 4 blanks: 2 for the sole and the same for the top.

To make the slippers warmer, you can make an insert of batting in the sole. It is better to cut it a couple of millimeters smaller around the entire circumference, then after connecting the parts it will be hidden, and the products will turn out beautiful and neat. It is better to cut the outer part of the sole from synthetic or natural leather, which will increase the wear resistance of the shoe.

The final step will be the connection of parts. You must first fasten the sole and top of the products with pins, stitch the joints and finish the edge.

Pattern of slippers with a back

Products with backs are constructed in the same way as flip flops, but you still need to add a back piece. The pattern of this part can be made in a similar way, by attaching a sheet to the leg, and outline, taking into account the height of the back.

It is easy to make a template of the part by taking measurements. To do this, measure the foot:

attach the beginning of the meter to the inside of the foot along the very bottom to the place where the upper part of the slipper will pass;
wrap the meter around the back of the foot;
fix the length on the outside of the foot, where the top of the product passes.

The height of the back should be no more than 7 cm, then the slippers will be comfortable. Using the obtained dimensions, you need to draw the detail on the cardboard, not forgetting to make an increase for the seams. The resulting pattern is applied to the material, the details are outlined and cut out. First, the upper parts are sewn together and then attached to the sole. For one slipper with a back, 6 parts are cut out (with a heater for the sole, they will turn out 7).

Pattern of slippers made of fur with an elongated shaft

Making a pattern of slippers-boots made of fur is a little more difficult. The pattern of the sole is created in the manner described above. After that, on the received part, you need to mark the center of the heel and measure the leg around the entire circumference. A rectangle of the previously obtained length and arbitrary width (up to 7 cm) is drawn on paper. This will be the side of the slipper. The length of the foot is measured before lifting, and the resulting measurement is indicated on the sole, starting from the center of the toe. A line is drawn along the width of the sole. Along this line, the part is bent and transferred to the material: this will be the upper part of the slipper.

Using patterns, you need to cut out the details of the future product. First, the top is connected to the side part, and its length is measured along the upper circumference. This measurement is needed to calculate the width of the shaft, the length of which is taken arbitrary. All dimensions are transferred to paper, and a rectangle is drawn. This will be the elongated top of the slipper-boot. The shaft is attached to the previously made top, which is sewn to the sole. Finally, the back seam is sewn. When constructing a pattern, do not forget about seam allowances. For fur products, it is better to make them at least 2 cm.

Finally

It is easy to make a pattern of slippers from fur with your own hands. If, nevertheless, there are difficulties, or there is no desire to mess with measurements, you can find patterns in various magazines. But there is an important point that is worth remembering: a life-size pattern of slippers made of fur will allow you to sew products that are the most suitable in size. Having made a room, you don’t have to spend money on buying it. After all, you can give a second life to a fur coat or sheepskin coat, which has long been gathering dust in the closet.