Ceramides in cosmetics properties. The benefits of ceramides for facial skin and indications for their use. Masks with ceramides. Can I combine ceramides with AHA or BHA acids?

Liposomes are actively used in cosmetics. They often contain ceramides. What kind of connections are these?
Our skin consists of several layers. The top one - epidermis thickness 75 -150 microns. Its main function is protection from mechanical damage, from the penetration of foreign substances, viruses, bacteria. In addition, it limits the evaporation of water from the surface of the skin. The epidermis is also multilayered. The cells of the lower layer divide, and their descendants, who do not have enough space there, are squeezed up and gradually move towards the surface.

The function of these cells is to protect the delicate inner contents of a person with their dead bodies. Moving into the upper layers of the skin, they degrade: they lose water, their DNA disintegrates. The top layer of the epidermis, called the stratum corneum, is made up of layers of dead, dehydrated cells. It is constantly exfoliated; its renewal period for normal skin is 20-90 days. So, before dying, the cells of the stratum corneum synthesize special lipids, which then cement their corpses into a kind of brickwork. Like other membrane lipids, they have hydrophobic “legs,” which in Russian have been called ceramides for several decades. These are the ones "ceramides", which are constantly repeated to us from the screen. "Hydroxyceramides", which are also mentioned in the advertisement, are, as you can now guess, the same ceramides with an extra hydroxyl group. Root "cer" comes from Latin "cerebrum"-brain, because they were first isolated from the brain. And those imposed on us "ceramides"-just an incorrect transcription of the word "ceramide".
That is Ceramides/ceramides- these are substances of natural origin, solid or waxy substances of lipid nature (sphingolipids), which together with cholesterol and fatty acids form the lipid barrier layer of the skin. When the surface layer of the skin is damaged, ceramides fill the gaps formed as a result of leaching, reduce skin permeability, reduce water loss and improve the elasticity of the epidermis.

Ceramides belong to the class of sphingolipids. These are complex lipids consisting of several blocks - the fatty alcohol sphingosine or phytosphingosine (forms a hydrophilic “head”) and one fatty acid (lipophilic “tail”).
Among ceramides Long-chain ceramides of type 1, which include linoleic acid, are particularly prominent. These ceramides stitch adjacent lipid layers and bind them into a single structure. With a lack of linolenic acid, synthesis suffers ceramides 1, accordingly, the lipid layer of the stratum corneum loses its integrity and disintegrates. The consequence of this is dry skin and other associated symptoms (flaking, increased sensitivity, irritation, etc.).
Restoration of epidermal lipids. These components ensure the connection of epidermal cells with each other. If we compare the skin to a brick wall, then the epidermal cells will act as bricks, and epidermal lipids will act as the matrix, cement. In reality, epidermal lipids (primarily ceramides, or ceramides) are very fragile substances, but they perform important functions: they ensure the resistance of the epidermis to the penetration of foreign microorganisms, and also participate in the effective hydration of the skin. To support the functions of epidermal lipids, their analogues (for example, rice ceramides) are introduced into cosmetics.

The use of ceramides for acne
To treat and eliminate signs of acne, a fairly wide range of drugs is used; modern developments have made it possible to obtain highly effective components of acne treatment products - ceramides. Treatment of acne with ceramides eliminates the pathological process in the skin by restoring the structure of the epidermal barrier and normalizing the chemical composition of epidermal lipids.
With insufficient synthesis of ceramides in the stratum corneum, areas completely devoid of the lipid matrix appear, the stratum corneum thickens and its permeability increases, resulting in dry skin, peeling, and itching. Violation of the skin barrier leads to a significant deterioration in the condition and appearance of the skin. Microorganisms and substances that previously did not penetrate the skin (for example, some chemical ingredients of cosmetics) can penetrate through a broken barrier. This can cause infectious skin diseases and allergic reactions, which aggravate the course of acne. In addition, damage to the lipid barrier causes skin dehydration, which causes the skin to lose its elasticity and wrinkles to appear.

Plant ceramides
Vegetable ceramides- are completely natural and of plant origin, extracted from rice. Ceramides characterized by the ability to fill the physiological gaps between epidermal cells, i.e. improving the quality of the stratum corneum of the skin. Complex structure ceramides in its origin, it has a lipid-structural characteristic that allows the scaly layers to “cement” intercellularly. Complex rice ceramides is a mixture of sphingolipids (ceramides) and phospholipids. Ceramides play an important role in the structure and functioning of the stratum corneum of the skin. They are characterized by the ability to fill the physiological gaps between epidermal cells, thus improving the quality of the stratum corneum of the skin.
Method of preparation: extracted with ethanol from rice bran and rice germ of Oryza sativa Linne (Gramineae). Contains at least 3.0% glycosphingolipids.
Cosmetic use tion :
The barrier function is very important: it allows you to combat the daily aggressive influence of the environment, temperature differences, pollution, solar radiation and physical and chemical influences. Quickly absorbed ceramides dissolve in the stratum corneum and fill the intercellular space. They allow you to restore the stratum corneum with the best qualities and protect the body. This property is even more important because this intercellular cementation is eliminated during daily washing.

Ceramides are the main component of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum (40%). They are involved in such important biological processes as:
* Regulation of transepidermal water loss.
* Maintaining the integrity of the stratum corneum and protecting the skin.
* Restoration of skin barrier functions.
Action:
* Regulate transepidermal water flow, limiting water evaporation, that is, maintaining moisture balance in skin cells
* Provide intermolecular communication of the outer epidermal layer, i.e. protecting the skin
* Allows you to fight the danger of wrinkles, help in the treatment of photoaging
* Moisturizes the skin (effectiveness confirmed by clinical studies)
* Significantly increase the level of moisture in the stratum corneum
* Strengthen skin barrier functions
* Activate fibroblast growth
* Have a whitening effect and suppress the production of melanin and tyrosinase
* Evens out complexion
* Prevent hair loss, make it stronger and healthier.
Care and recovery during los:
- ceramides restore the keratin layer along the entire length;
- have a softening and moisturizing effect on the scalp;
- ceramides moisturize and nourish hair;
- increase hair thickness and stimulate its growth;
- facilitate care and styling after coloring and perm.
Areas of use:
- Cosmetic products to moisturize the skin
- Special products for dry skin
- Anti-aging and anti-wrinkle products
- Facial care (creams, lotions, milk, cream, etc.)
- Body care (body lotions, body creams, etc.)
- Cleansing cosmetics (soap, etc.)
- Decorative cosmetics (lipstick, powder, etc.)

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Ceramides and skin

The main task of our skin is to protect the body from external aggression (biological, chemical, physical) and help maintain inner peace, or, as doctors say, homeostasis. The evolution of the skin in humans as a biological species inhabiting planet Earth, their formation from the moment of conception to birth, renewal and restoration throughout life and, of course, structural uniqueness and functioning - everything is subordinated to the solution of this vital task.

Today, much is known about the structure and operation of the skin barrier, and this knowledge is successfully used for the benefit of humans. In this publication, we will touch upon one of the interesting, complex and important aspects related to skin permeability and its barrier function. Almost nothing passes through intact skin, and this is an indispensable condition for maintaining the integrity of our body. This is true both for substances that come into contact with the skin from the outside and for those that are inside. It is the skin, and specifically its stratum corneum, that protects us from moisture loss. How the stratum corneum copes with this task became known in the late 90s of the last century, and these ideas brought experimental and practical dermatology to a new level and laid the foundation for the development of the modern concept of prevention and correction of skin problems and treatment of skin pathologies.

According to the views accepted in the modern scientific world, the stratum corneum is similar to brickwork, where the role of bricks is played by corneocytes - absolutely impenetrable horny scales through which diffusion of substances is impossible. Horny scales are held together by intercellular “cement” - a lamellar structure, which is an alternation of lipid layers (membranes) parallel to each other, between which there is a thin layer of water. This structure is often called the lipid barrier of the skin in the scientific literature, and it is this structure that serves as the main permeability barrier and regulates the passage of substances through the stratum corneum. Understanding how the lipid barrier is formed, what it consists of and how it functions provides ample opportunities in terms of regulating skin permeability - this is important for the local use of cosmetics and medications. Modern developments of dermatotropic drugs and the development of programs for skin care and restoration are carried out taking into account the structure and condition of the skin barrier.

The most important component of the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum is ceramides - in the body, these amazing lipids are found in the myelin sheaths of neurons in the brain, where they were first discovered and which is why they got their name (from the Latin cerebrum - brain). Ceramides form the basis of the lipid matrix - they account for half (50 mol%) of all lipids. Another common component is cholesterol (free and ester-bound) - 30-35 mol%). The remaining lipids are free fatty acids. (Such a unique quantitative and qualitative lipid composition is characteristic only of the stratum corneum. In the membranes of living cells - the external (plasma) and internal ones surrounding the organelles - the key component is phospholipids, and cholesterol occupies only a few percent.

Ceramides: chemical structure and nomenclature

Ceramides, together with sphingomyelin, glycosphingolipids and phosphosphingosides, belong to the group of sphingolipids. In the case of ceramides, one of the fatty acid residues is atypically attached through an amide bond to the corresponding base (amino alcohol). From a chemical point of view, the diversity of ceramides is due to the many possible combinations of two structural components - a polar “head” (sphingosine base) and a hydrophobic “tail” (fatty acid). The following sphingosine bases (amino alcohols) are involved in the formation of ceramides: sphingosine, phytosphingosine, b-hydroxysphingosine and dihydrosphingosine. Attached to the base is a fatty acid chain (“tail”) of varying lengths (from 16 to 28 carbon atoms in increments of two atoms, depending on the type of ceramide).

A distinctive feature of some skin ceramides is their unique chemical structure, which is not found in ceramides of other body tissues. The most interesting example is O-acylated ceramides, which have long acyl chains with a terminal hydroxyl group. This group may remain unchanged or may be ethyrified with linoleic acid or a-hydroxy acids. In addition, hydroxyceramides can form a chemical bond with proteins (due to this, the lipid barrier is attached to the horny envelopes of corneocytes). These chemical features underlie the ability of ceramides to form a compact and dense structure of the stratum corneum. Any impact that destroys such bonds involving ceramide molecules or other components of the intercellular “cement” causes transepidermal loss of moisture and facilitates the penetration of potentially harmful exogenous substances into the body.

At least 11 classes of ceramides have been identified, numbered according to their thin layer chromatography fraction number (higher number corresponds to higher ceramide polarity). Later research led to the emergence of a new, systematic classification, in which the class number is replaced by a letter designation, from which the chemical structure of ceramide is clear. The last letter in the designation corresponds to the sphingosine base:

S - sphingosine;

P - phytosphingosine;

N - b-hydroxysphingosine;

DS - dihydrosphingosine.

This is preceded by a letter indicating the type of fatty acid residue:

N - non-hydroxy acid;

A - a-hydroxy acid;

O - sh-hydroxy acid.

Ceramides are a subclass of lipid molecules, the simplest type of sphingolipids, consisting of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramides are an important lipid component of the cell membrane. Ceramide is involved as a precursor molecule in the synthesis of sphingomyelin. In the cell, ceramides play the role of not only a membrane element, but also a signaling molecule. They are involved in cellular processes such as cell differentiation, cell proliferation and apoptosis.

If a fatty acid attached through an ester bond is found in the ceramide structure, the letter E is placed before the designation. In the stratum corneum of the skin there are ceramides designated according to this nomenclature as: EOS, NS, EOP, NR EOH, AS, NH, AP, NDS, ADS and AN. In addition, the two ceramides that form covalent bonds are designated OS and OH. Ceramides EOS, EOH and EOP contain linoleic acid attached to the terminal hydroxyl group, and α-hydroxy acids through an ester bond. Each ceramide differs in the structure of the sphingosine base or the length of the fatty acid chain.

Ceramides as the basis of intercellular “cement”

Intercellular lipids account for about 15% of the dry weight of the stratum corneum of the skin. As mentioned above, lipids are a mixture of ceramides (about 50 mol%), cholesterol and its esters (30-35 mol%) and free fatty acids (about 15 mol%). This proportion is important for the normal functioning of the barrier, and its change is fraught with disruption of the water balance of the stratum corneum, which is clinically expressed in the development of dry skin (read more about dry skin in the article) with all the ensuing consequences.

Ceramides as precursors are synthesized in special organelles of granular keratinocytes, called lamellar granules (or Odland granules). Analysis of the lipid content of the granules showed that they contain mainly phospholipids and sphingolipids (glycosphingolipids and sphingomyelin), which are subsequently modified into ceramides and free fatty acids. The main process of formation of lamellar structures occurs at the border of the granular and stratum corneum of the skin. Two important enzymes work here - phospholipase A2 and B-glucocerebrosidase, which catalyze the breakdown of ceramide precursors and the formation of the final form of intercellular “cement”. For the correct occurrence of this process, a certain water content and the acidity value of the medium (pH) are very important. Phospholipase A2 has maximum activity at neutral pH, while other enzymes prefer a more acidic environment. Water is important for the functioning of all enzymes, so the barrier function of the stratum corneum can be impaired in conditions of prolonged dehydration of the stratum corneum, which is observed in some pathologies (psoriasis, xerosis) and in cases where the skin is often exposed to detergents.

Many works have been devoted to the study of the structure of the stratum corneum and lipid matrix. According to one of the most popular models, the intercellular “cement” has a mosaic structure and consists of two characteristic zones: the “crystalline” zone is practically impermeable to water; it is divided by small sections of a “liquid crystal” zone, which allows water to pass through much better. Due to this organization, the intercellular “cement” has a certain permeability to water, high plasticity and resistance to mechanical stress. The mosaic nature of the lipid matrix is ​​supported, among other things, by the fact that the ceramides included in its composition are heterogeneous and are represented by several classes with different physicochemical and structural features. Each type of ceramide plays a different role. Thus, ceramide 1 (EOS), a fundamental component of intercellular cement, is responsible for cross-linking corneocytes with matrix lipids, and its deficiency is one of the main causes of many dermatoses.

Cosmetics based on ceramides (for example,) are especially recommended for restoring skin after damaging aesthetic procedures (including), as well as for caring for dry skin with a damaged barrier. It is a wonderful example of introducing fundamental knowledge into practice and embodies corneotherapeutic approaches that are becoming increasingly popular among dermatologists and cosmetologists.

Ceramides as cell cycle regulators

So, ceramides are the main element of the lipid barrier, but, as further research has shown, they perform not only a structural function, but are also a regulator of some important processes occurring in skin cells. Ceramides act like second messengers in the cell cycle. Thus, they play a significant role in apoptosis - programmed cell death, affecting cell proliferation and differentiation. The “vector” of this influence depends on the specific type of ceramide and can be multidirectional for different compounds: in some cases it is stimulation, in others it is inhibition.

The biological activity of ceramides on the cell cycle has been confirmed experimentally: by adding exogenous ceramides and sphingomyelin to keratinocyte cell cultures, their effect on cell proliferation and differentiation has been demonstrated. Two short-chain synthetic ceramides C2 and C6, two natural ceramides 3 and 6A, as well as sphingomyelin were taken. Keratinocytes were incubated in a medium containing 0.5; 1; 5 and 10 µM of the test substance. All ceramides studied, except sphingomyelin, inhibited cell proliferation. Ceramide C2 turned out to be the most active - at a concentration of 10 µM it inhibited DNA synthesis by 60%. Natural ceramides showed only a small effect on proliferation rates.

Ceramides for pregnant women and embryo development

Ceramides are required for embryo formation. Ceramides play a key role in the transformation of a clump of stem cells into a full-fledged embryo. Scientists at the University of Georgia, working under the direction of Dr. Erhard Bieberich, found that in the early stages of embryonic development, ceramides accumulate in the apical zone of cells directed into the cavity, helping to form the poles of the embryo. Polarity is necessary for cell differentiation and the transformation of a sphere consisting of undifferentiated cells into a structured embryo. According to Bieberich, at the very beginning we are clumps of stem cells, but literally within 24 hours some of the cells die, and some form a hollow sphere with an inner layer (primitive endoderm), which gradually turns into an embryo, and an outer layer (primitive ectoderm ), supporting the development of the embryo.

Ceramides perform several functions in both developing and mature organisms: in particular, they are the main structural elements of the skin barrier and serve as precursors in the synthesis of the protective sheath of nerve cells - myelin. Recently, scientists have received more and more evidence that, in addition to structural ceramides, they perform a number of signaling functions. In an earlier study, Bieberich's group showed that ceramide, in a complex with the PAR-4 protein, is involved in the elimination of unnecessary cells during brain development. The results of the latest work indicate that ceramides concentrated in the apical zone of cells attract proteins that ensure the formation of polarity and trigger a cascade of reactions with their participation.

When ceramide synthesis was artificially suppressed, polarizing proteins did not accumulate in the apical zone, cells died, and endoderm formation did not occur. The restoration of ceramide synthesis completely normalized all processes. The authors plan to undertake a detailed study of the functions of ceramides in mature cells. They suggest that disturbances in its synthesis can lead to cells losing direction in the tissue structure and to their malignancy. There are also diseases in which a large number of cells die as a result of triggering a self-destruction mechanism (apoptosis). Perhaps the reason for this is an increase in the level of ceramides inside the cells. To study the localization and concentration of ceramides in cells, scientists have already developed antibodies that specifically bind to these lipids and allow them to be visualized and quantified.

"Cementing" properties of ceramides

Over the past few years, a number of studies have been conducted regarding the topical application of ceramides and other components of the intercellular lipid “cement”. The main interest of the researchers was the effect of these compounds on the barrier function of the skin. The barrier properties of the skin are assessed by its ability to prevent the evaporation of water from the body. We have already said that the main restraining structure is the stratum corneum. However, it is not a 100% barrier, and normally some amount of water constantly evaporates through the skin. Water slowly seeps through the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum from the inside to the outside and, upon reaching the surface, evaporates into the atmosphere. This process is called transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and with any damage to the stratum corneum, the level of TEWL increases.

The TEWL index is used to assess the ability of local drugs to restore the barrier properties of the stratum corneum. The work studied the properties of two emulsion preparations (like lamellar emulsions): one contained only ceramides 3 and 3V (a semi-synthetic analogue of natural ceramides), the other contained their combinations with ceramide b, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and linoleic acid. The study involved 12 women aged 22-24 years. Before using the drugs, the stratum corneum was damaged by treatment with a surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS) or a non-polar solvent (acetone). Long-term (24 hours) contact with SLS caused a change in the structure of the intercellular “cement” - the skin responded to this by increasing the TEWL index. Application of acetone led to the “washing out” (extraction) of lipids in the stratum corneum of the skin, which also damaged the stratum corneum and increased TEWL. Application of an emulsion, which contained both ceramides, led to an insignificant decrease in TEWL and an increase in skin hydration in areas where “damaging” agents were applied - a surfactant and a non-polar solvent. Significantly better effects were achieved with the help of the second drug: its use reduced TEWL by 20% and increased the moisture content of the stratum corneum by 10%.

Many skin barrier dysfunctions are associated with a decrease in ceramide content or significant changes in their proportions. Therefore, topical application of the “right” mixture of ceramides and other lipids found in the stratum corneum can improve barrier function. In particular, it has been shown that the systematic application of a specially formulated mixture of ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acids restores the impaired function of the intercellular “cement” and significantly increases the moisture content of the stratum corneum (more on skin hydration). What is interesting: when each of the components of the drug was used separately or even in paired combinations, no effect was observed. Moreover, in these cases, regeneration even slowed down, and only a three-component mixture in the correct proportion accelerated the regeneration of the barrier. Based on these results, it can be concluded that all three compounds - ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids - are essential for skin barrier function.

Topical application of a mixture of physiological lipids of the stratum corneum and semi-synthetic ceramide 3 also proved effective, especially in the case of various dermatoses (contact dermatitis (CD), allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) or atopic dermatitis (AD)) - study results (duration 4 or 8 weeks) this was confirmed in 580 patients with one of these pathologies.

In recent years, their analogs have become increasingly used as a substitute for ceramides. The properties of pseudoceramides are close to those of natural substances, and in some cases they are an almost ideal replacement for ceramides. Ceramides applied to the skin are able to restore defects in the intercellular structure caused not only by aging or exogenous factors (including cosmetic procedures such as peeling, dermabrasion, mesotherapy), but also by skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. The restorative effect is especially pronounced when using mixtures in which ceramides are combined with other components of the intercellular “cement” of the stratum corneum - cholesterol and free fatty acids.

In addition to exvivo experiments, computer modeling of the basic properties of pseudoceramides was carried out in comparison with natural ceramides (EOS, EOP, EON), including the surface area and volume of the molecule, the distribution coefficient between the polar and non-polar phases, etc. The performance of pseudoceramide 14S24 confirmed that it can be used as a replacement for ceramides in the composition of intercellular “cement”. The regenerative properties of pseudoceramide M-palmitoyl-4-hydroxy-1_-proline (Bio 391) were studied. Its effectiveness was compared with emulsions containing ceramide 2 or ceramide 3. After 24 hours of topical skin exposure to 2% SLS, TEWL and skin erythema were recorded, and all three substances had similar effects in reducing skin water loss. To find the optimal therapeutic concentration of pseudoceramide Bio 391, dose-effect relationships were built, and it turned out that moisture loss and skin redness are most effectively reduced at concentrations of 1.0 and 0.5%, respectively. In areas treated with pseudoceramide, TEWL was reduced by 36% compared to placebo (blank) emulsion treatment, and erythema scores were 25% lower compared to controls.

The anti-inflammatory effect of pseudoceramide is an important point. It is known that the regeneration of the skin barrier function is inhibited in the presence of inflammation. When pseudoceramide Bio 391 was used together with HA-bisabolol, a synergistic effect was observed in reducing erythema. Effective reduction of redness was observed with 0.1% pseudoceramide and 0.1% bisabolol.

Currently, natural ceramides are rarely used in dermatotropic preparations. On the one hand, as ingredients they are too expensive, on the other hand, there are a number of technical difficulties when included in recipes. Instead, semi-synthetic or synthetic ceramides are used that are free of these disadvantages. A number of independent studies have confirmed that these compounds are one of the most promising classes of cosmetic ingredients.

An interesting analysis of the fine molecular structure of the intercellular “cement” was carried out using small-angle X-ray diffraction. It turned out that the lipids of the stratum corneum form two crystalline lamellar phases, distinguished by periodicity (6.4 and 13.4 nm). The last phase - called the long period phase (LPP) - is especially important for the operation of the barrier. The FDP is formed by three layers: two wide (5 nm wide) containing ceramides, and one narrow (3 nm) filled with a mixture of ceramides and cholesterol, forming a liquid crystalline phase (“sandwich” model). Consequently, the use in treatment of a mixture of ceramides capable of forming such structures can give very good results in restoring the stratum corneum, which has been confirmed experimentally.

Using wide- and small-angle X-ray diffraction, it was established that the spatial organization of sphingolipids in the mixture EOP/EOS/NP/NS/AP/hexanoylphytosphingosine/hexanoylsphingosine (see Fig. 1) is similar to that observed in intercellular “cement”. Regular local use of such a mixture will allow the delivery of all the substances necessary to restore the skin barrier “in place”, as was shown in experiments in vivo and in vitro using oil-in-water emulsions containing this mixture of lipids. The study measured TEWL, skin hydration and elasticity and recorded changes associated with the use of a sphingolipid mixture compared to a control emulsion (which did not contain sphingolipids). The results were encouraging: TEWL decreased by 4 units, skin hydration increased by 10 units, and skin elasticity increased by 8%. As a result, the mixture of sphingolipids used not only restored the stratum corneum of the skin and increased its hydration, but also increased the elasticity of the skin.

Conclusions about ceramides and their action

Ceramides are key structural elements of the stratum corneum, having a direct effect on skin permeability in both directions and on the “cementation” of corneocytes. Ceramides applied to the skin are able to restore defects in the intercellular structure caused not only by aging or exogenous factors (including cosmetic procedures such as peeling, dermabrasion, mesotherapy), but also by skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. The restorative effect is especially pronounced when using mixtures in which ceramides are combined with other components of the intercellular “cement” of the stratum corneum. It is important to maintain clear proportions between the individual components of the mixtures, apparently in order to, to one degree or another, reproduce the composition of the intercellular matrix and, consequently, its structure.

Currently, natural ceramides are rarely used in dermatotropic preparations. On the one hand, as ingredients they are too expensive (they are difficult to isolate and obtain in the required industrial quantities), on the other hand, there are a number of technical difficulties when included in formulations. Instead, semi-synthetic or synthetic ceramides are used that are free of these disadvantages. A number of independent studies have confirmed that these compounds are one of the most promising classes of cosmetic ingredients.

Cosmetics based on ceramides are especially recommended for restoring skin after damaging aesthetic procedures, as well as for caring for dry skin with a damaged barrier. It is a wonderful example of introducing fundamental knowledge into practice and embodies corneotherapeutic approaches that are becoming increasingly popular among dermatologists and cosmetologists.

In cosmetic stores today there are a huge number of different products, the effects of which are known to only a few girls and women. Various bottles and bottles with colorful liquids can confuse even the most experienced beauty who visits beauty salons and spa treatments. To understand facial skin care cosmetics even better, let's talk about ceramides. This is a biologically active substance based on fatty acids. This cosmetic product was created so that every girl and woman can find the skin of her dreams. The composition of ceramides is close to the composition of fats in the human body, so such care will be safe even for those girls and women who suffer from allergic reactions.

Ceramides- these are biological extracts of animal tissue, therefore, due to the complexity of creating such a cosmetic product, its cost simply cannot be low. Of course, today a lot of different synthetic substitutes have appeared, but their effect cannot be compared with the natural original. To avoid making a mistake in choosing the cosmetic product you need, always carefully study the composition. Ceramides can be bought in many cosmetic stores, but give preference to trusted brands with a lot of good reviews.

Basic indications for the use of ceramides in daily care.
1. Sensitive skin. Such skin needs an additional protective barrier that will help get rid of redness and irritation. Regular use of ceramides will help you soothe your skin and make it soft and supple.

2. Skin prone to flaking and dryness. If you are familiar with the feeling of tightness and dryness, then you simply need to purchase ceramides for regular care. Also, this cosmetic product will be an excellent help during severe frosts and when sunbathing. Experts recommend taking a jar of this wonderful care product with you on vacation.

3. Care for delicate skin around the eyes. This zone is characterized by a lack of skin, which leads to premature aging and fading of the skin. This means you need to use ceramides daily to protect yourself from wrinkles and puffiness. Ceramides will be an excellent substitute for both day and night cream for the area around the eyes. Try to take a course of ceramides at least once a year to prevent skin aging.

4. Nutrition and saturation of the skin with beneficial substances. If you feel discomfort after washing your face, suffer from excessive oily skin, or have been struggling with paleness and dullness for a long time, then you simply need to include ceramides in your care. They will perfectly restore problematic skin, normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands and help get rid of sagging.

5. Aging skin. Here it is worth paying attention to the fact that if you are already faced with the problem of wrinkles, a distorted oval face and sagging skin, then you need more effective cosmetics. Here a simple moisturizer may no longer help you, because you need to deal with the existing problem, and not direct your efforts to prevention. Ceramides are perfect for caring for aging skin, and after just a few treatments you will notice how your skin has become smoother and tighter.

6. Ceramides as an ingredient in masks. Already from youth, it is necessary to use various face masks in order to face the first signs of aging as late as possible. If you add one capsule of ceramides to your favorite facial mask, its effect will increase many times over.

As you can see, ceramides Perfect for caring for various skin types and allowing you to combat various problems. Always rely on your personal feelings to choose a cosmetic product that will best suit your skin type. When we are young, our skin is quite smooth and elastic due to the fact that fluid and collagen protect it from the signs of aging. With age, this barrier loses its strength, and moisture begins to evaporate much more strongly, dryness appears and, as a result, wrinkles. Ceramides are an artificial barrier to preserve the youth and beauty of the skin. If you want to always look perfect, regardless of age, then this cosmetic product will perfectly protect you from various skin problems.

What are the destructive factors of our skin?
- Sun rays and solarium
- Wind and frost in the cold season
- Bad habits

Aggressive effects of tap water
- Improper daily care
- Consumption of unhealthy foods

In this case, you need to create effective protective barrier, which will allow you to maintain youthful and elastic skin. You can simply cut the ceramide capsule and apply it with light patting movements all over your face, or you can add this product to your mask. It all depends on your preferences and skin reaction to a specific care technique. We offer you several options for masks with ceramides for the beauty and youth of your skin.

Ceramides are often used as an anti-aging ingredient in skin care products, but how exactly do ceramides work? Stay tuned to find out the answers to 10 frequently asked questions about ceramides.

1. What are Ceramides?

Ceramides or ceramides are fats present in our skin. Ceramides play an important role in holding epidermal cells together, and also provide protection from dehydration and external factors (temperature changes, UV radiation, penetration of microbes and viruses, and so on).

2. How do ceramides help the skin?

Ceramides have proven anti-aging properties. If you compare them to bricks and mortar, the skin cells are the bricks and the ceramides are the mortar. Ceramides hold skin cells together to form a protective layer that helps prevent moisture loss and visible damage from environmental exposures. Ceramides also help maintain skin firmness. It has been proven that the less ceramides present in the skin, the higher the likelihood that moisture will easily leave it.

3. If ceramides are already found naturally in the skin, why do I need them in skincare products?

Young skin produces a lot of ceramides, but with age, the quality and quantity of ceramides decreases. This can lead to damage to the skin barrier: dryness, flaking, redness, irritation and dehydration of the skin, as well as premature appearance of wrinkles.

Skin care cosmetics will help compensate for the lack of ceramides in the skin. With its continued use, the skin begins to look and behave more youthful, hydrated, firmer and more elastic.

4. What results can I expect from Korean cosmetics with ceramides?

Properly formulated (and properly packaged) ceramide skin care products help strengthen the skin's protective barrier and improve hydration. This results in smoothness, firmness and reduced wrinkles.

5. Why does packaging matter?

Good anti-aging ingredients are often unstable. This means that their effectiveness decreases when exposed to light and air. Therefore, try to choose products in opaque or airtight (with pump) bottles. This will help maintain the properties of the ingredients in your cosmetic product throughout its shelf life.

6. How do you know if a product contains ceramides?

In the composition of cosmetics, ceramides are designated by the general word ceramide with a letter designation (ceramide AP, EOP, NG, NP, NS), but not always. If the packaging does not say ceramide, then it is worth looking for ingredients that stimulate the skin to produce ceramides.

Example: Ceramide NS, Ceramide EOS, Ceramide NP, Сetyl-PG Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide,Phytoceramide and so on.

Since ceramides are such a popular anti-aging ingredient, most brands will clearly state this in their products.

7. Which is better, synthetic or natural ceramides?

There are two properties that make ceramides an effective anti-aging ingredient: moisturizing the skin and giving it a healthy appearance.

Ceramides can be obtained from plants. But the disadvantage of plant-based ceramides is that they can only moisturize the skin, but cannot provide an anti-aging effect. Ceramides obtained from animal and human skin have both properties. But for many conservationists, this is unacceptable.

Therefore, synthetic ceramides were developed as an effective and ethical solution. They are sustainable, moisturize the skin and teach it to be young and healthy. In the past, synthetic ceramides were difficult to absorb into the skin, but new generation ceramides do not have this problem.

8. What skin type are ceramides suitable for?

Ceramides are “skin-identical” ingredients because they occur naturally in skin. This makes them an ideal ingredient for all skin types, even sensitive, acne-prone or oily skin. Ceramides are also safe for the eye area.

9. What ingredients are best to combine ceramides with?

Ceramides are most effective when combined with other “skin-identical” ingredients such as amino acids, glycerin and cholesterol. These lipid blends are great for improving skin tone and texture, as well as reducing signs of irritation.

To enhance anti-aging benefits, make sure your ceramide-enriched product also contains antioxidants and skin-restoring ingredients such as retinol, niacinamide, linoleic acid or peptides.

10. Can I combine ceramides with AHA or BHA acids?

Yes, you can definitely combine ceramides with AHAs or BHAs. Acids remove the layer of dead skin cells, which allows ceramides to penetrate better.

AHA (glycolic acid) – best for dry or sun damaged skin. It works to smooth out wrinkles, fade brown spots and moisturize the skin.

BHA (salicylic acid) - ideal for combating acne and age spots. It cleanses and visually minimizes enlarged pores.

If you still have questions, do not hesitate to ask them either in the comments under the article, or write them to our email.

Ceramides or ceramides (from Latin cerebrum, “brain”) are a type of lipids (fats). They are the main structural element of the hydrolipid layer of the skin, necessary to protect against aggressive external factors and prevent moisture loss.

When there is a lack of ceramides, the skin's protective barrier is destroyed © iStock

One of the main functions of ceramides is construction; they fill the intercellular space. If there is a shortage or poor quality of ceramides, the integrity of the skin's natural shield will be disrupted. It is not difficult to predict the sad consequences.

1. 1

   Dehydration Left without cover, the moisture will begin to evaporate.

2. 2

   Dryness When cells cannot retain moisture, the skin begins to experience thirst and an unpleasant feeling of tightness.

3. 3

   Irritation and inflammation Ceramides protect the skin from the penetration of toxins, heavy metals, exhaust gases, viruses and bacteria.

In addition to protecting the skin from the “bad environment,” ceramides have another important function - signaling. They are the ones who give a sign when it’s time for old cells to die and for new ones to be born.

Ceramides: aging and destruction

The lipid balance in the skin can be disrupted due to external and internal circumstances.

Age. Unfortunately, over time, the epidermis loses the ability to synthesize ceramides, which leads to dry skin - one of the main problems of mature skin.

Incorrect care. Too aggressive, incorrectly selected cleansers damage the lipid layer. The result is dehydration.

Extreme weather conditions. Frost and sun, biting wind, excessively cold or dry air can break through the skin's protective system and cause dryness, itching and redness.

Lack of fatty acids in the diet. Yes, the skin does not like it when we eat incorrectly, and does not hide it. Dryness and sensitivity are the price to pay for strict dietary restrictions and a lack of “good” fats in the diet.

Creams with ceramides are suitable for any skin type © iStock

The role of ceramides in cosmetics

Products with ceramides come to the rescue in cases where the skin, for one reason or another, suffers from a lack of its own lipids. Ideally, the ceramides included in the cream should freely integrate into the hydrolipidic layer of the epidermis, filling the “gaps”, and thus restore the integrity of the protective skin barrier.

Indications for use

Cosmetics with ceramides are universal and suitable for any skin type. But there are cases when creams with ceramides are vital.

Sensitive skin

It is characterized by a weakened lipid barrier, and cosmetics with ceramides can alleviate its condition, protect and prevent a reaction to negative external factors.

Dry skin

Its main problem is a permanent lack of lipids, and in particular ceramides. Creams containing them are able to seal moisture and retain it in the skin.

Aging skin

Suffers from a lack of fat for obvious reasons, which include, for example, a decrease in the synthesis of its own lipids.

Skin after procedures

Creams with ceramides are indicated after salon peelings and dermabrasion procedures. After these manipulations, the skin requires rapid restoration of the hydrolipid mantle.

Problem skin

Despite the increased oiliness, she can also benefit from ceramides in order to establish the process of normal cell exfoliation and avoid the effect of over-dried skin as a result of treatment.

Lack of ceramides can lead to dryness and flaking © iStock

What are ceramides in cosmetics?

Nine different ceramides are synthesized in the skin; only a few of their analogues are used in beauty products.

In cosmetic formulas, ceramides are usually combined with other lipids - cholesterol, fatty acids, amino acids. In such an environment, they work with increased efficiency.

Natural and synthetic ceramides

For cosmetic needs, ceramides of natural and synthetic origin are used. There is a common belief that synthetic, so-called pseudoceramides, are much inferior in quality and effect to their natural prototype. However, there is no scientific data to confirm or refute this claim yet.

Tools Overview

Considering the above, it is not surprising that ceramides are in demand as a cosmetic ingredient and appear in creams for a wide variety of purposes.

Cosmetics with ceramides for skin with different needs

Cosmetics with ceramides