How to knit facial loops with knitting needles? Knitting - holes for buttons Perl knitting needles

1. Symbols in diagrams and how to read diagrams 2. Methods and techniques for knitting loops on knitting needles - ALL IN ONE PLACE

The diagram shows how to knit a pattern. In principle, each cell corresponds to one loop, and in each row of cells a number of loops are given. The schemes should be read in the front rows from right to left, in the wrong rows - from left to right.

Thus, the alternation of cells in the diagram corresponds to the alternation of loops when knitting. The numbers on the sides of the diagram indicate the number of rows from bottom to top, that is, the sequence in which you need to knit. On the right are the numbers for the front rows: on the left - for the wrong rows. In the schemes of most patterns, only the front rows are shown (most often odd). In these cases, in the purl rows, the loops are knitted according to the pattern, that is: the purl loops are purl, the facial loops are facial. If there are exceptions to this rule or some features, then this is usually indicated directly next to the pattern. If the purl rows are shown in the diagram, then the loops are knitted as indicated.

How to knit this or that loop is explained by icons, the decoding of the designation of which is given by the general list. All icons are chosen so that, if possible, resemble the loop itself. They are relatively quickly remembered and looking at them. You can already imagine what the pattern will be according to the scheme. Do not be afraid, and then the schemes will “speak” to you very soon!

IN rapport(MS) indicates the number of stitches in width you need to create the pattern. This pattern is repeated so many times. how much is needed to get the desired width of the product. Rapport is marked on the diagrams with arrows or square brackets. Start knitting from loops to rapport, then repeat the rapport loops as many times. how much it takes to achieve the desired width of the product, and finish with loops after rapport.

If there is a central pattern, then only the required number of loops for this pattern is given, and the main pattern passing on both sides of it is knitted according to the description or your own idea. The diagram shows in height as many rows as necessary to form a pattern. These rows should be repeated all the time. Exceptions to this rule are indicated directly next to each scheme.

Consider an example. Let's say we have the following schema:


The numbers on the right side indicate that there are 12 rows in the rapport. If even rows are not indicated, then they are knitted the way the loops look, that is: purl is knitted over the front ones, knitted over the purl ones, and purl above the crochets.

The numbers below indicate how many loops to cast on. One repeat (repetitive pattern) is marked with the symbols "MS".

So, in our case, we need to dial 16 loops of the main pattern + 2 extreme or edge loops (they are dialed with each knitting, as indicated in the table, they are most often not indicated in the diagrams).

1st and 5th rows: * 1 out. p., 2 p. together front with a slope to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 out. p., 4 p. cross to the left (2 p. leave on the auxiliary knitting needle before work, 2 persons. p., then knit 2 p. with the auxiliary knitting needles), 1 out. p., 2 p. together front with a slope to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 out. p., 4 persons. n. *, repeat from * to *;

2nd and all even rows: knit all loops according to the pattern, purl yarn over;

3rd row: * 1 out. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. together front with a slope to the left, 1 out. p., 4 p. cross to the left (2 p. leave on the auxiliary knitting needle before work, 2 persons. p., then knit 2 p. with the auxiliary knitting needles), 1 out. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. together front with a slope to the left, 1 out. p., 4 persons. n. *, repeat from * to *;

7th and 11th rows: * 1 out. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. together front with a slope to the left, 1 out. p., 4 persons. p., 1 out. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. together front with a slope to the left, 1 out. p., 4 p. cross to the right (2 p. leave on the auxiliary knitting needle at work, 2 persons. p., then knit 2 p. with the auxiliary knitting needles) *, repeat from * to *:;

9th row: * 1 out. p., 2 p. together front with a slope to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 out. p., 4 persons. p., 1 out. p., 2 p. together front with a slope to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 out. p., 4 p. cross to the right (2 p. leave on the auxiliary knitting needle at work, 2 persons. p., then knit 2 p. with the auxiliary knitting needles) *, repeat from * to *.

Unfortunately, there are many variations in drawing loops for circuits. Almost every magazine has its own loop image system. It is usually found in a separate reference table.

On our site, we tried to apply the most common way of depicting loops.

front loop

purl loop

remove the loop, thread after knitting

remove the loop, thread before knitting

Or

nakida for openwork knitting

nakida for tight knitting

front from broach

purl from broach

edge loop

double crochet front loop

purl loop, double crochet

2 loops together front to the right (for the front walls from left to right)

2 loops together knit left (for the back stacks from right to left)

2 loops together purl to the right

2 loops together purl to the left

yarn over, thread at work

the indicated number of crochets for openwork knitting

indicated number of yarns for tight knitting

facial crossed

purl crossed

knit 3 from 1 loop (front and, without removing the loop from the left knitting needle, yarn over on the right knitting needle and knit the front one again)

3 loops together front

the specified number of loops together front

purl 3 together

specified number of loops together purl

from 3 loops we knit 3 loops (3 loops of the front and, without removing the loops from the left knitting needle, make a crochet on the right knitting needle and knit the front one again)

nakid, 2 facial, nakid put on knitted loops

Cross 4 loops to the right (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary knitting needle at work, knit 2, then knit 2 from the auxiliary knitting needle)

Cross 4 loops to the left (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary needle before work, knit 2, then knit 2 from the auxiliary needle)

the indicated number (here 6: 3 to 3) cross the loops to the right front

the indicated number (here 6: 3 to 3) cross the loops to the left front

Cross 4 loops to the right (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary knitting needle at work, purl 2, then knit 2 purl from the auxiliary knitting needle)

Cross 4 loops to the right (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary knitting needle before work, purl 2, then knit 2 purl from the auxiliary knitting needle)

the indicated number (here 6: 3 to 3) cross the loops to the right purl

the indicated number (here 6: 3 to 3) cross the loops to the left purl

2 facial, put the second loop on the first

2 purl, put the second loop on the first

Cross 7 loops to the left - leave 3 loops on the 1st auxiliary knitting needle before work, leave 1 loop on the 2nd auxiliary knitting needle at work, 3 facial loops, then purl 1 loop from the 2nd auxiliary knitting needle and knit 3 loops from the 1st auxiliary knitting needle.

Cross 7 loops to the right - leave 3 loops on the 1st auxiliary knitting needle at work, leave 1 loop on the 2nd auxiliary knitting needle at work, 3 persons. loops, then purl 1 loop from the 2nd auxiliary knitting needle and facial 3 loops from the 1st auxiliary knitting needle.

Remove 3 loops on an auxiliary knitting needle before knitting, purl 1, knit 3 from the auxiliary knitting needle

Leave 1 loop on the auxiliary knitting needle at work, 3 facial loops, then 1 purl from the auxiliary knitting needle

1 broach: remove 1 loop as front, 1 front and stretch it through the removed loop

Slip 1 loop as a front loop, knit 2 loops together with the front one, then stretch it through the removed loop

1 double broach: slip 2 loops together as knit, knit 1 and pull it through both slipped loops

Remove 2 loops, as with facial knitting, knit the next loop with the front one and stretch through the removed loops

1 purl stitch, knitted from the loop four rows below (dissolve the loops above it)

purl crossed (introduce the right knitting needle towards you from left to right into the loop on the left knitting needle, grab the thread in the direction of the arrow and pull the loop to the wrong side of the work. Leave the new loop on the right knitting needle, discard the loop of the previous row from the left knitting needle.)

front with three turns (insert the knitting needle into the loop from left to right and wrap the end of the knitting needle with a thread 3 times counterclockwise)

1 loop of garter stitch: both in the front and in the back rows we knit with the front loop

knit from the transverse thread 1 purl crossed

1 persons, extended from the previous row

5 p. cross: 1 p. leave on the 1st auxiliary. knitting needle before work, leave 3 p. on the 2nd auxiliary. knitting needle at work, 1 persons. p., then knit facial 3 p. with the 2nd auxiliary. knitting needles and 1 p. with the 1st auxiliary. knitting needles

2 loops together to the right crossed face

2 loops together to the left crossed front

2 loops together to the left crossed purl

2 loops together to the right crossed purl

Methods and techniques for knitting loops on knitting needles

Let's first agree on the notation: working needle(abbreviated RS) we will call the right knitting needle (for left-handed people, the left one), and the left knitting needle (for left-handed people, the right one) auxiliary(abbreviated sun). For each loop, two pictures are presented: one for right-handers (left). and the other for lefties (right).

The symbols of each loop in the figures are in some upper corner.

So let's get started:

Front loop (fig. 1-4)

1st way (Figure 1.2). Thread for knitting. Insert the RS behind the front wall of the loop on the BC in the direction from the BC to the RS, grab the working thread coming from the index finger, and pull a new knit loop through the loop on the BC.

Remove the knitted loop from the aircraft. When knitting patterns, the 1st method of knitting the front loop is usually used (if necessary, the necessary clarification is made in the text).

2nd way (Figure 3, Figure 4). Thread for knitting. Insert RS into the back of the loop on the BC, grab the working thread and pull a new knit loop through the loop on the BC. Remove the knitted loop from the aircraft.

Purl stitch (Figure 4-7)

1st way (Figure 4.5). Thread before knitting. Insert RS in the direction from RS to BC behind the working thread under the front wall of the loop on the BC, grab the working thread coming from the index finger and pull a new wrong loop through the loop on the BC.

2nd way (Figure 5.7). Thread before knitting. Insert RS behind the working thread behind the back wall of the loop on the BC in the direction from the BC to the RS, grab the working thread coming from the index finger and pull a new, wrong side loop through the loop on the BC.

Remove the front, thread after knitting (Fig. 9.10)

Thread for knitting. Insert RS into the loop on the BC, as when knitting the front loop in the 2nd way, and remove it. without knitting. on PC

Remove front, thread before knitting (Figure 11.12)

Thread before knitting. Insert the RS behind the working thread into the loop on the BC, as when knitting the front loop in the 2nd way, and remove it without knitting it on the RS.

Yarn for openwork and tight knitting (Fig. 10.11)

The nakid is a loop from the working thread on the RS. If there is a front loop after the yarn, throw the thread on Rc from front to back (see Fig. 10, 11), and if there is a wrong loop, throw the thread from back to front (see Fig. 20, 21)

If the yarn needs to be made so that the knitting is tight, without "gaps", it is done as described in the description of adding loops along the left knitting edge (2nd method).

Front loop from broach (Fig. 12.13)

Thread for knitting. Insert the RS from front to back under the broach between the loops, grab the working thread coming from the index finger, and pull a new front loop from under the broach.

Purl loop from a broach (Fig. 14, 15)

Thread before knitting. Enter RS ​​under the broach. Between the loops in the direction from back to front, grab the working thread coming from the index finger, and pull a new wrong loop from under the broach.

Edge loop (Fig. 16, 17)

To make the knitting edge even and beautiful, knit the last loop at the end of each row with a purl loop, do not knit the 1st loop at the beginning of each row, but remove the RS with the loop turned so that a “pigtail” of loops forms along the knitting edge.

Facial loop, removed with a crochet (Fig. 18, 19)

Thread for knitting. Yarn over RS ​​from front to back and slip into st in BC as when knitting in 2nd method, slip st in RS without knitting.

Purl loop, removed with a crochet (Fig. 20, 21)

Thread before knitting. Yarn over RS ​​from back to front and insert st into BC as in purl 1. Remove the loop on the RS without knitting.

Two loops together front, knitted to the right (Fig. 21, 22)

Thread for knitting. Enter the RS immediately into two adjacent loops on the BC, as when knitting the front loop in the 1st way, and knit both loops with the front loop. Remove the knitted loops from the aircraft.

Two loops together front, knitted to the left (Fig. 23, 24)

Thread for knitting. Insert RS immediately into two adjacent loops on the BC, as when knitting the front loop in the 2nd way, and knit both loops together with the front one. Remove the knitted loops from the aircraft.

Purl two loops together, method 1

Thread before knitting. RS enter immediately into two loops on the BC, as when knitting the wrong loop in the 1st way. and purl both loops together. Remove the knitted loops from the aircraft.

2 loops together purl, 2nd method

Thread before knitting. Insert RS into 2 sts at once on BC as in purl 2, and purl both sts together. remove knitted loops from the sun.

3 loops together front

Thread for knitting. Insert RS immediately into 3 adjacent loops on the BC, as when knitting the knitting loop of the 2nd method, and knit all the loops together. Remove the knitted loops from the aircraft.

purl 3 together

Thread before knitting. Insert RS immediately into 3 adjacent stitches on BC as in purl 1, and purl together. Remove the knitted loops from the aircraft.

Several crochets in a row for openwork knitting

If after yarn overs there is a front loop, throw a working thread on the PC from front to back the indicated number of times. If there is a purl loop, throw the thread on the PC from back to front the indicated number of times.

Yarn, knit 2, yarn over to knit loops

Thread for knitting. Yarn over RS ​​from front to back and knit 2 in sequence using 1st stitch. BC pick up the yarn over the front wall and slip it through 2 knitted loops. The loops are pulled through the yarn over, which hangs freely on the knitted loops.

Swap groups of loops with knit ones

Thread for knitting. Remove the first group of loops (the number of loops in the groups is indicated on the diagrams) onto an additional knitting needle (abbreviated as DS) and leave it before (in the second case, after) knitting. Knit sequentially in the 1st way the loops of the second group on the sun. Remove the knitted loops from the BC, then knit the loops with the DC in sequence with the front 1st method. Remove the knitted loops from the DC.

2 front, put the 2nd loop on the 1st

Thread for knitting. Knit 2 front loops in the 1st way. BC enter into the 2nd loop on the RS and with its help, pull the remaining loop on the RS 1st loop through the 2nd. Drop the second loop from the BC.

Thread before knitting. Knit 2 purl stitches in the 1st way. BC enter into the 2nd loop on the RS and with its help, pull the remaining loop on the RS 1st loop through the 2nd. Throw the second loop from the sun.

From 3 loops, knit 3 facial

Thread for knitting. Insert the working knitting needle into 3 loops at once and knit the front one in the 1st way. Without removing the knitted stitches from the knitting needle, yarn over in the direction from back to front and knit the 2nd front loop in the same way from the same three loops. Remove the knitted loops from the left (for left-handers - from the right) knitting needles.

To knit 5 (7, etc.) from 3 loops, after the second knitted loop, yarn over again and knit the front loop for the third (fourth, etc.) time. also remove the knitted loops.

In the legend, the top number indicates how many loops you will knit, and the bottom number indicates how many loops you will get.

When knitting purl crossed loops, the thread should be in front of work. Insert the right needle towards you from left to right into the loop on the left needle, grab the thread in the direction of the arrow and pull the loop to the wrong side of the work. Leave a new loop on the right knitting needle, discard the loop of the previous row from the left knitting needle.

How to knit loops with knitting needles?


Knitting is a wonderful kind of creativity, especially since anyone can learn this interesting business with a little effort. Knitting is widespread, since using these simple devices a huge number of products are obtained. To master the knitting process, you need to have an idea of ​​​​how to knit loops with knitting needles, because they are the basis of any pattern. Loops are:

  • Air;
  • Facial;
  • Purl;
  • Elongated.

How to knit air loops with knitting needles

Air loops are the basis of any knitted thing. The edge of the product, with the right set, is elastic and well stretched. To dial the required number of air loops, you will need two knitting needles that fit snugly against each other and a ball of thread, the end of which should be long and hang freely.

You should take the knitting needles in your right hand, and place the thread in your left so that it passes at the base of the thumb and forefinger from the outside and is fixed in the palm of the other fingers. Then it is necessary to insert the knitting needles into the resulting loop from the outside of the thumb, then pick up the thread from the index finger, also from the outside and tighten the resulting air loop on the knitting needles. Repeat the action as many times as needed.

How to knit facial loops

Front loops are knitted in two ways: behind the front wall of the loop of the previous row (classic method) and behind the back wall ("grandmother's loop"). For loops the first option, you should insert the knitting needle into the front loop of the loop, which is located on the left knitting needle and pull the hooked thread through it.

The loops are knitted in the second way by pulling the thread through the back loop of the loop of the previous row. The loop turns out to be crossed. Many patterns use the classic knitting method, if you knit the product with the front of the back wall of the loop, the result may differ. In both cases, the working thread is located behind the knitting.

How to knit purl stitches with knitting needles

The purl loop, like the front loop, is performed in different ways. More often used the classic way of knitting the purl behind the front wall of the loop of the previous row. When creating this type of loop, the working thread is located in front of knitting and is in the left hand along with the knitting needle on which all the loops are located. With your right hand, you need to take a free knitting needle and stretch the thread with it in the direction away from you and back: this will turn out a new loop on the right knitting needle. The loop of the previous row from the left knitting needle must be dropped.

How to knit elongated loops with knitting needles

Elongated loops adorn the edges of products and create unusual knitted fur. To perform such loops, you must first perform several rows, then you need to knit one loop with the front one, but do not throw it off the knitting needle, but use your finger to pull the loop out of the thread and, throwing it back, make two loops together with the front one.

There is another way: the right knitting needle must be inserted into the loop on the left, pull out a long thread and discard it, then wrap it around the working thread and knit it with the front loop.

There are three main ways to knit buttonholes with knitting needles. This is a buttonhole in the form of a hole for a small button, in the form of a vertical slit and in the form of a horizontal slit for medium and large buttons. In detail, step by step, with a photo, we will analyze the knitting of all types of loops.

Before I break down the execution technique, I want to give a few tips. They are especially important if you are making buttonholes with knitting needles on the placket.

On a single-breasted and double-breasted strap, the layout of the loops should be as follows:

Now let's look at three main ways to make buttonholes with knitting needles.

Let's start with the simplest, making a small hole for a small button. It can be done with a yarn over or with a decorative eyelet to get a slightly larger hole.

Double crochet buttonhole

The easiest way is to yarn over in place of the loop. As a rule, it is performed in the front row, and in the wrong side, without knitting, it is simply dropped from the knitting needle.

The second way, in which a slightly larger incision is formed, is an element called the "eye"
It is necessary to tie the wrong side to the place of decoration. Pull the yarn over from the broach of the previous row between the loops. Knit a wrong side row to the end. In the front row, knit the yarn over and the previous loop together, but do not discard from the left knitting needle.

Then grab the third loop and knit the front one. This is necessary to maintain the number of loops.

By the way! With this design, the yarn can be used to pass a decorative cord through it.

Hinge with horizontal slit

For buttons of medium and large size, loops with knitting needles can also be knitted in several ways:

1 way: for a medium size button

Throw the working thread to the front side in front of the removed and untied loop. In the front row close the loops, the total length of which is equal to the diameter of the button. Knit the row to the end. On the wrong side of the work, cast on loops in an amount equal to the number of closed loops minus 1 loop. After casting air loops, continue the row to the end.

On the right side of the knitting, the loop should not be weak or tight.
On the wrong side, the knitted fabric should not have an assembly.

2 way: for a large button

Tie up to the location of the incision. Bind off the required number of loops, constantly stretching the loop and attaching a button. Knit the row to the end. On the next purl row, cast on the same number of stitches minus one to form the top edge. Transfer the working thread to work. Grab the working thread with your thumb so that you get a loop. Put it on the right needle.

3 way: for a very large button - a voluminous loop

Tie up to the location of the incision. Close the required number of loops. Pull the last loop through the untied from the left knitting needle. Leave the resulting loops on the right knitting needle. Bring the working thread to the wrong side. Yarn over between loops.

When knitting from the purl row, discard the yarn over. This will increase the size of the last buttonhole. This will allow the slit to stretch when the large button is threaded.

How to knit vertical buttonholes with knitting needles

Collect loose loops of the part on a pin. Start making the cut from the wrong side. Yarn over after the first loop. When knitting a crochet, so that there is no gap in knitting, it must be turned over and knitted with the front one. Continue the work, as in paragraph 2, until the required number of rows is formed.

Collect loose loops on a pin and start knitting the left side of the loop from the front row. When knitting, reduce the loops on the right side in the same order in which they added on the left, in order to maintain their total number.




These are the basic methods that are used to knit buttonholes with knitting needles. It is worth mastering them well so that the loops come out neat and even. After all, the appearance of a knitted product with buttons very much depends on the correctness and accuracy of making loops for them. I hope that this article will be useful to beginner needlewomen who are afraid to take on blouses and cardigans with a clasp, fearing that they will not be able to beautifully make loops. And of course, I hope that the tips at the beginning of the article will be useful to you.

When writing the article, materials from the book “Knitting. The most useful and complete tutorial.

Buttonholes are made in the form of horizontal and vertical cuts, and for small buttons - in the form of a small hole. The length of the hole is determined by the diameter of the button. In knitting, the size of the slit is half the diameter of the button. This is due to the fact that the slit is highly stretched. Vertical loops are made along the line of the middle of the front, and horizontal ones are shifted from the line of the middle of the front to the side opposite to the edge of the placket. Buttons are sewn along the line of the middle of the front.

Knitting horizontal buttonholes. On the bar, in the place where the loop should be, fasten the loops without the help of a working thread, stretching them one through the other. The working thread remains at the beginning of the loop. How to do it? Slip the first two stitches onto the right needle and slip the first stitch over the second stitch using the left needle. The second stitch remains on the right needle. Slip the third stitch on the right needle and put the second stitch on the third one and in this way fasten off as many stitches as required for the cut. Then, with a working thread, type on the right knitting needle as many air loops as you have fixed. On the next row, knit the air loops behind the back walls. The result is a horizontal loop.

Another way to knit horizontal loops: in the front row on the bar, fasten the number of loops that are necessary for the cut and knit to the end of the row. In the next purl row, after knitting to the hole, throw as many air loops on the knitting needle as you fixed in the previous row and knit the row to the end. In the next front row, knit the air loops behind the back walls. It turned out a horizontal loop, made in two rows.

Knitting vertical buttonholes. Knit the loops of the right half of the bar and slip them onto a spare needle. Then knit the rest of the strap to a height that will be one row more than the height of the hole itself. In this case, it is better to make the edge of the hole nodular so that it is less stretched. The working thread remains on the side of the hole. Wrap the end of the right needle with the working thread counterclockwise. The number of turns must be equal to the number rows in the height of the cut. Then knit stitches from the spare needle. Both parts of the bar are now on the same spoke and are separated by turns. Next, knit only the loops of the right half of the strap as follows: knit a row to the cut and knit the last loop together with the front loop behind the back wall. Turn the knitting (the working thread is behind work), remove the first loop and finish the row. On the next row, knit the loop and loop together again and knit until all the turns are reduced. When you knit the last round, knit the row to the end. The result is a vertical loop.

You can also make vertical buttonholes with an extra ball. Knit the right half of the strap and slip the knitted loops onto a pin. Knit all remaining loops to the height of the cut. At the same time, make edge loops along the edge of the loop. The thread after the last row remains on the side of the hole. Transfer the loops from the pin to an additional knitting needle and knit with a thread from the second ball. Knit two rows less than the working thread. Cut the thread from the second ball, leaving the end about five centimeters from the side of the cut. Knit a loop from an additional knitting needle with a working thread. Both halves of the loop are connected. Knit a few more rows of the strap and use a hook to hide the ends of the threads that remained after knitting the vertical loop.

Buttonholes for small buttons are made with yarn over. In the appropriate place on the wrong side of the product, yarn over and knit the next two loops together with the front one behind the back walls. In the next row, yarn over knit - the loop is ready.

If the placket is knitted with a 2x2 ribbing, then the buttonholes can be done as follows: In the appropriate place on the placket, in front of the two purl loops, knit one knit and one purl stitch together with an inclination to the left, make two yarn overs and knit the next two loops together with the knit one. On the next row, knit one yarn over with a front loop, and the second one with a crossed one. It turned out to be a neat loop.

If the buttons are very small, then the loops can not be knitted, but done with the help of some object with a blunt end (for example, a pen or pencil). Pierce the bar with it in the place where the loop should be and turn it several times, expanding the hole. The small button will go through.

If you are doing buttonholes for large buttons, then it is better to overcast the edges to avoid stretching.

Knitting starts with the basics. Of course, a creative needlewoman has a lot of ideas in her head that she wants to translate into reality as soon as possible. But if the skill is not enough, disappointment quickly comes. What if they can drive into a dead end, for example, such questions: how to knit a front loop with an inclination to the left or what is it? Then you want to quit this difficult task and no longer pick up knitting needles. That is why you need to start from the very beginning, from the basics. Having mastered simple things, you can start knitting entire products without fear of making a mistake.

Based on facial and alternating which creates beautiful canvases. Here we will start with them and find out, front and back loops.

Where to begin?

Any knitted product with knitting needles begins with a set of loops. This is a separate topic, since there are a great many ways to set for different types of knitting: for elastic, for purl, for a tight edge, or, conversely, for loose and elastic. If you are reading about knitting and purl stitches, then you are already familiar with the set.

Before we understand how to knit knit loops, let's talk a little about knitting density. First you need to choose the right tools. The size of the spokes has a lot to do with it. It happens that due to incorrectly selected knitting needles, the loops do not “fit” into the canvas, the pattern looks either too tight, or loose and shapeless. Much depends on how tightly the master knits. Everyone has their own individual style: someone loves a dense fabric and knits quite tight, while someone is more comfortable knitting more freely. When choosing spokes, this individual feature must also be taken into account. If the craftswoman knits tightly, and also the knitting needles are a size smaller than those recommended for the selected yarn, then the product will turn out to be tight, hard and unpleasant to wear. And if the needlewoman works freely, when knitting with even thicker knitting needles, the product will not keep its shape at all, and after washing it will completely stretch.

Basic loops

In order to learn, it is not enough to know how to knit facial loops. In addition to just front and back loops, there are several more types whose names you need to know. All of them are derived from the base ones.

  • Edge. These are the loops that begin and end the rectangular canvas. Thanks to them, the product does not stretch on the sides. At the beginning of each row, it is removed untied, and at the end it is always knitted on the wrong side.
  • Crossed. Such loops are often found in Asian schemes. The product, connected with crossed facial loops, looks original, and the structure is dense and elastic.
  • Decreasing. These are the loops that result from knitting two or three loops together to make the fabric narrower. This is useful when knitting raglan sleeves, sweaters, dresses and other products.
  • Surplus. These can be nakida, which are involved in openwork patterns, or loops, which are needed to add width to the canvas. They are knitted in several ways, for example, from the broach of the previous row or by knitting two loops from one.
  • Elongated. This is a kind of removed loops. They are used for knitting original and warm products.
  • English. These loops are connected by a special English method, when the needle is inserted not into the loop located on the needle, but into its middle. A product made in this way is very airy, and the canvas is embossed.

Facial loop

How to knit facial loops? To answer this question, you need to know how the loops are arranged. They all have a front and back wall. The front is the one that is located in front of the spoke, the back is behind. At the bottom between them is a broach.

The front loop is knitted according to which wall the previous one is towards us. To knit behind the front wall, insert the knitting needle from left to right, pull out the thread and lower the loop from the knitting needle.

To knit behind the back wall, we introduce the knitting needle from right to left and in the same way we pull out the working thread.

Facial crossed

How to knit correctly As described earlier, Asian craftswomen are very fond of this method; they are often found in the patterns of Japanese and Chinese needlework magazines. What is the essence of the crossed loop? Its base crosses, as if it was turned in the other direction.

To knit a crossed loop, insert the needle behind the back wall from right to left. If the next row is knitted with a crossed purl, then in the next front row, the knitting needle will need to be inserted behind the front wall from left to right.

Purl loop

Purl loops in the front surface make up all even rows. We hold the working thread in front of the working canvas. We introduce the knitting needle from right to left, grab the yarn and pull it away from us.

The purl loops are also crossed. In order to knit them, you must also place the yarn in front of the working canvas, and the knitting needle must be inserted from left to right, grab the thread in a “top to bottom” movement and pull it out.

Two obverse with an inclination

How to knit the front loop with a slope to the left? And what might it be for? In some products, it is necessary to reduce the loops in such a way that a beautiful neat pigtail is formed with a slope in one direction or another. It is also necessary for many openwork ornaments. In them, the yarns alternate with two loops knitted together.

The slope can be to the right or to the left. The tilt to the left is also called broach. In some schemes, it is designated as such. How to knit a front loop with a broach?

To do this, you need to remove the first loop on the right knitting needle, knit the second one, and now, using the left knitting needle, put the removed loop on the knitted one. There is another way: turn the first loop over so that the back wall becomes the front, and now knit both loops behind the back wall.

And if the slope should be to the right side, then you need to enter the knitting needle from left to right, first into the second, then into the first loop and knit them together behind the front wall.

Now that you know how to knit the front loops together, you can safely take on the implementation of simple openwork patterns.

Three loops together

Often in the schemes there is such a designation as "knit three facial together." Most often, in order for the canvas to look beautiful, three facial ones need to be knitted so that the middle one is on top. How to knit 3 facial loops? 3 loops will fall beautifully if you first swap the first and second places (to do this, remove them on the right knitting needle, inserting it first into the second, then into the first loop, and in such a twisted position we return it back to the left knitting needle). And now we will knit all three loops of the front for the back wall.

Now that you know how to knit the front and back loops correctly, you can start working on simple but interesting products.