Round collar. How to make a round collar. We sew collars. Raised turn-down collar

A collar is a functional and decorative element of clothing that borders the bottom of the neckline of shoulder garments. Its usual design is just a strip of fabric. Varieties consist of upper and lower parts, which are usually compacted from the inside. In addition to fabric, knitted, felt and leather, models are lace and knitted.

Before you sew a collar, you need to decide on the cut and style.

Collar types

One-piece.
Set-in.
Removable.

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Basic styles of collars

Rack.
Shirt.
Flat turndown.
Raised turn-down.
Shalevy.
Jabot.
Collar.
Designer.

The most common are standard shirt collars on a one-piece or cut-off stand. Such a detail can become part of the patterns of both women's and men's shirts.

Collar tailoring

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Depending on the model and shape of the neckline, the pattern can be one, two or four parts. It is necessary to connect a part that has a fold with other parts of the cut so that its edges meet in the cut. The slit usually accompanies the clasp of the garment. Two parts are sewn from the inside out on three sides, and then turned inside out.

Before transferring the pattern to the fabric, it is recommended to measure the neck. This value should be equal to the length of the paper collar configuration (it is measured by the stitching cut), or exceed it by 0.5-1 cm. If necessary, the patterns are lengthened.

If a collar with a partial stand is sewn, the upper part is made slightly larger than the lower one in length and width - then the part will lie better.

Collar reinforcement

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Almost all fabric models of collars are reinforced from the inside with a special cushioning material. This gives strength to the edges of the collar and hides seam allowances that are sometimes noticeable. Gaskets are made of adhesive seal (for example, non-woven tape), rigid or lightweight materials, fabrics of intermediate density. The cut of the sealing layer must take into account the direction of the lobar thread of the model.

Features of working with a collar

The reinforcing material is attached to the wrong side of the upper part if we are sewing a turn-down model. A sewn-in hard seal is attached to the necks of products made of light, thin fabrics using a slightly heated iron. Previously, the gasket must be swept to the wrong side of the upper part of the structure.
If a turn-down collar is used, the seal is placed from the inside of the upper part - where the fold passes.
The stand-up style is reinforced from the outside. In this case, the seal is cut out for the whole part and attached from the inside, along the fold. Adhesive pads in these models are used only to give density to the upper part, up to the fold line.
The pattern of the seal usually corresponds to the configuration of the collar details. Gaskets from medium and low density material, as well as adhesive seals, are cut taking into account allowances. They are cut off after applying the line as close as possible to it. On dense pads, excess material is cut off immediately before stitching.

A simple version of the sewn-in collar is the "stand-up". The model on the bar with a lapel is called a collar collar. The bar is attached directly to the seam line of the cutout, around the entire circumference of the product. The sharp corners of the bar on which the incision is usually made can be rounded off.

A pattern of a model from a single piece with a fold is a rectangular canvas.

Processing technology

Cut out the part and seal.
Turn inside out the seam allowance of the neck of the inner part along the line along which the product will be sewn. Cut off excess, cutting to 6 mm.
Fold the product along the fold line inward facing. Make the spare edges of the outer part wider.
Cut the corners along the folding line diagonally.
Smooth out the seams at the ends of the plank. Wrap the seam edges, guiding them towards the inside of the model. Treat with an iron.
Sew the finished collar with the outer part to the neck.

Two-piece stand-up collar

The pattern of a model on a standing bar is made up of external and internal fragments. The ends can be connected in front or behind. In this case, the seal is cut according to the contours of the outer part. To avoid excessive density, excess corners are cut diagonally from the upper edge of the seal.

Bend the neck seam allowance inward along the bottom edge of the product diagonally. Trim excess material to 6 mm.

Align the top cuts of the workpiece and its ends face inward. Sew along the top edges.

Cut the seam, taking into account the stock of material for one more on the outer part.

In places where V-shaped bends are formed, incisions are made. Corners are removed diagonally.

Lay spare material inside the part. Machine stitch along the entire top.

Turn product right side out. Slightly move the top seam inward. Iron and sew to clothes.

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The classic model of the collar is a turn-down shirt on the stand. A pattern from a standard fabric for a shirt consists of two main parts and two parts of the supporting base. The stock in both cases is left in the amount of 0.8-1 cm.
The collar is not recommended to be raised above 1-1.5 cm above the bar. Its length in this case is equal to the length of the neck of the product itself.
An adhesive pad is used as a sealant. Seal patterns are one support part and one turn-down without stock.
If the drawings of the rack and base are combined into one configuration, the sewing process will be greatly simplified.

Processing technology

Align existing collar pieces with right sides facing inward.
Fold the fabric with pins in the corners so that the top part is a couple of millimeters larger than the bottom. This is necessary for a more accurate processing of the outer seam.
Go through machine stitch. The stitch size when approaching the corners should be 1.5 mm. After the line reaches the corner, put one stitch across - so the corner will become sharper.
In order for the outer seam to be made with high quality, the line is made not along the very border of the lining fabric, but at a distance of 1-1.5 mm from it.
Cut the corner stocks of material one above the other (cascade), stepping back 1 mm from the line.
Turn the model inside out by hand, without using any tools that can break through the corners. It is important to observe the symmetry of the ends.
Place machine stitches of equal size at the same distance from the edge.
Sew the bar, bending the allowance.
Pin the front side of the outer stand to the face of the bottom main piece. The line should go along the very border between the gasket and the supporting part.
In order for the curve of the model to take the shape of the neck, the fold is fixed and connected to the collar along the entire length.
On the inside, mark the border of the future plank. The length of this line should be equal to the length of the neck.
Attach the right side of the support piece to the wrong side of the shirt. Spare edges should lie on the face of the product. Connect the inner and outer parts of the bar.
Form a kink and steam the part.

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The flat turn-down collar lies completely on the shoulders of the product, without rising above them. An example of such a style is the sailor suit.

The model, which implies a front fastener, is one single piece. The back closure version consists of two pieces with excess material and two sealing pieces (no stock as standard).

Processing technology

Fasten the seal to the two upper parts of the base.
Connect all parts of the model, put a machine seam on the outer edges.
Trim allowances. At the place of bends around the entire perimeter of the pattern, make V-shaped cuts. Bevel spare edges and cut corners.
Smooth out the spare material to the bottom of the product.
Lay a line along the previously applied seam of the face of the lower part, grabbing the allowances.
Turn the collar and its corners to the front side.
You can manually roll the seam towards the bottom part. The model is processed with an iron.
Sew on the collar, inserting it between the garment and the inner lining.

Raised turn-down collar

Raised turn-down collar on a partial rack - a model, the lower part of which imitates a supporting part, and the upper part is folded back. At the back, the bar can be slightly raised. It is used when modeling coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets.

The stand of a raised turn-down collar is sewn to the collar, and not vice versa. The pattern consists of two parts of the upper collar and two parts of the lower supporting base. The lower collar and the upper strap are cut out in one copy.

Processing technology

Connect the bottom bar to the bottom of the base. Begin to lay the line from the center of the rack to the edges. In the process of sewing, the main material is pulled off with a free hand.
The second edge of the support also begins to be sewn from the center. Connect the bottom bar to the top of the model.
Cut out stocks. Reduce the size of the lower collar. To do this, connect the seams along which the rack was previously attached. Form the product so that it repeats the bend of the neck.
Cut off the excess on the edge of the lower collar (3-5 mm).
Place the pieces facing each other. The top part should be larger than the bottom.
Start sewing the model from the centers of the parts to the edges. Having brought the line to the corner, lift it with your free hand so that the stitches merge into an arc. Make sure that the corners are bent towards the lower collar part.
Transfer the seam to the lower part by 1-3 mm. The size of the roll increases along with an increase in the density of the fabric.
Sew the edges of the product. Connect the seams to the strips.
Form a collar and sew it into the product.

Collar in 5 minutes

A false collar is an independent detail of an outfit and an accessory. Sometimes it is a kind of jewelry. The model is not sewn into the product, its manufacture does not require special skills, and sometimes it does not need stitching (holes are made with an awl). It can be done even in 5 minutes.

It is made by cutting off the collar of an old shirt. A fastener in the form of a button or ribbon is attached to the part, in front or behind. Decorated with rhinestones and beads.

They are made according to the measurements of the neck from various types of fabric, as well as from felt or leather. The pattern of a turn-down product for a fastener to the top or to the bottom can be lengthened, making the collar dimensionless.

A few seasons ago, detachable collars of various models came into fashion. They can be separate from the thing with which they are combined, or attached to it with buttons or buttons. As a rule, according to the model, these are flat-lying collars or stand-up collars. With this piece of clothing you can decorate and update your favorite sweater, blouse or dress. ? Today I want to introduce you to the process of sewing a round, flat-lying faux fur collar.

For work, we need the following materials:

Artificial fur

Atlas

Interlining

Lace width no more than 5 cm

Small clasp or hook

This pattern is the basis of a flat-lying collar, you can change the width and shape of the collar if you wish. When you make a paper template, be sure to try it on and adjust it to fit around your neck. Make the neckline as you need it.

We cut out the top of the collar from faux fur. I want to note that fur always has a direction of the pile and it will be more convenient and beautiful if the direction of the pile coincides with the vertical line of the front of the collar, when laid out on the fabric, this is a shared line, i.e. directed along the fabric roll. In the photo, the direction of the lobar is shown by arrows.

We make 4 parts: 2 parts from fur (left and right collar) and 2 from satin fabric, respectively (you can take any suitable color, but not stretchy fabric). We retreat 1 cm from the edge of the template on all sides.

Now we need to glue all the details with interlining. Now there is a large selection of interlinings, choose not very tight, so that the collar does not stand with a stake, but is soft enough. In the photo, the interlining that I used is under the details of the collar. Our collar has a front and back, do not forget to mark them so as not to be confused in the future. I am guided in the direction of share. I remind you that the direction of the share is indicated by the arrows in the photo.

Another important point. I think that you will come across it in the process of working with fur. When connecting the front and back parts of the collar, the fur will need to be put with a pile inside and it will constantly move out. Therefore, by connecting separately the left and right parts with the front sides, first sweep them away.

Now stitch the details leaving the side of the neck open and then cut the fabric 0.5 cm from the edge, a little more in the rounded places so that the finished collar edge lies more evenly.

We turn both halves of our future collar inside out and lay a line along the front side of the lower parts of the collar close to the stitching line, grabbing the allowance that we cut off. We iron both halves. Next, you need to cut off that centimeter along the neck line, which we gave when cutting, since in this model the neck will be processed. If you want to make a collar with an inner seam around the neck, then leave this allowance. Connect the details of both halves along the neck with a stitch.

We combine the centers of the front collar. Now we will sew on lace, which must be stretchy, otherwise you will not be able to lay it out. The width of the lace should be at least 2 cm, the appearance is up to you. We measure the total length of the neck with a centimeter and add another 1 cm. Cut off the lace of the resulting length. Fold the lace right side up in half lengthwise and iron.

Then we turn the edges of the lace inside out and stitch, retreating 0.5 cm from the edge. We turn the lace inside out and pin it to the neck, clasping it on both sides. We make a line on the front side, preferably along the edge of the lace, so as not to disturb the pattern. If the edges of the lace are asymmetrical, then you will not be able to capture two of its sides with one line. It will be necessary to sew on the lace on the inside of the collar with your hands. On the back half of the bottom, I sewed small hooks as a quality. Alternatively, it can be a small flat button with an air loop.

OK it's all over Now! Our collar is ready! Look how he decorated an ordinary blouse. I found 2 brooches in my household, which, in my opinion, came very close to him.

If you have any questions about this master class, write, I will answer.

For those who love detachable collars, I suggest getting acquainted with another interesting creation experience. It will be a great addition to many outfits.

Share interesting information with your friends. I wish you all good luck!

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Admin 2015-06-03 at 3:52 am

This new article is devoted to the design features of collars of various types and cuts, methods of their processing and connection with the neck. And with this post, I open a new section on my blog: 100 collars. I will fill it until I describe exactly 100 collars.

I don’t know if I’ll collect so much in my memory - well, there is the Internet - I’ll look there. And you, dear reader, will help, if anything. So send in your models - I like to understand the designs of clothes.

Today I will describe the first collar - this is the plan:

And I will tell you how I used perforated glasses for the first time today to improve my vision.

So, how many designs of collars exist, their shapes, sizes, processing methods and the number of incoming parts?

Studying the varieties of collars from fashion magazines, catalogs and just samples of finished products, I always pay attention to what determines the shape of the collar:

First, I look at the shape of the collar.

Secondly, I decide how it connects to the neck (set-in or one-piece).

Third - how the collar fits to the neck - tightly, at some distance or even flat on the bodice.

And the fourth - how the collar is connected with the clasp - whether there is one at all, the clasp to the top or to the inflection of the lapel.

Structurally, the collar most often consists of a detail of the upper and lower collar, as well as a lining detail.

In total, there are several varieties of cut collars: flat-lying racks with different heights, set-in racks (vertical and inclined), one-piece racks with front and back details, shirt collars, a collar - collar, turn-down collars with a rack in the middle, and collars for products with an open fastener: jacket collars, shawl collars, apache collars.

A lot, right? We will gradually consider all these constructions in the following articles of this new column of mine.

And now let's start with the simplest collars to design, these are:

Turndown flat collars:

This is a collar that completely repeats the shape of the neck and shoulder area of the product - turn-down flat.

A distinctive feature of this collar is the absence of a stand. That is, the collar lies flat on the figure.

The pattern of such a collar is built on the basis of the basic basis of the shelf and back of the product.

The shape of such a collar varies depending on the shape of the neck.

The line of stitching the collar into the neck completely repeats the contour of the neck of the product. The flyaway part of the collar can have a different shape - rounded or pointed edges, different collar widths.

The fastener in products with such collars can be both on the shelf and on the back. Also, there may not be a clasp at all.

Consider the most common model of such a collar - round or, as it is now called "Peter Pen".

The pattern of such a collar is easier to build than all the others - immediately on the basis of the neck of the product.

In the drawing of the shelves, set aside 6 cm along the contour of the neck in order to outline the contours of the collar. The contour of the fly-off of the collar is rounded to the center of the neck in front of a smooth line. The width of the collar is usually the same along the entire contour and varies depending on the model. In a children's dress 4 - 5 cm, in a women's dress or blouse 5 - 6 cm, in a coat 7 - 10 cm or more.

On the back, along the contour of the neck, you also need to set aside the width of the collar, in this case 6 cm. If there is no fastener on the back, then the collar can be with a seam located in the center of the back. If there is a fastener, then the collar on the back is not sewn, but is made out with rounded lines. And thus, two parts of the collar are formed - left and right.

The design of the collar lines on the back must be done with a closed shoulder tuck. This tuck can be temporarily closed and transferred to the armhole, or conditionally considered closed by extending the shoulder seam in a straight line from the point of the neck towards the shoulder.

Of course, there should not be a seam along the shoulder line on the collar.

The contour lines of the collar are copied onto a separate sheet of paper, aligned along the line of the shoulder seam and a collar pattern is obtained.

For the collection, I offer several other forms of neckline, suitable for a flat-shaped turn-down collar, without a stand:

The algorithm for constructing a pattern for such collars is simple - we change the neck line according to the model, then draw the collar lines.

Using the example of an open neckline, I will once again note that the key changes in the neckline are its width and depth. As well as the shape of the neckline on the chest - rounded or U-shaped:

Similarly to the previous model, the neckline of the next dress is formed, but there is also a Y-shaped neckline on the back. The shape of the ends of the collar is also different - they are not rounded, but sharp. The width of the collar is curly and gradually narrows closer to the shoulder.

Detachable collar - decorated with beads and rhinestones.

The neckline is decorated in a boat, the right part of the collar is superimposed on the left, and then sewn into the neck as one piece.

Let's continue the topic of collars in the next article -.

My reader and member of the training group, Tatyana, sent me an interesting letter. Quote:

» Helen, I see you in plus-size glasses. I have a mother - she is over 70 .. she restored her near vision in three months. She has good eyesight. So, she is “not a believing Thomas”, until she checks herself, she will not believe.

I bought her glasses with perforations, like "holes". During this time, she read for an hour a day, looked at something on the Internet, and suddenly once again puts on strong glasses, and they lubricate everything. She went, wiped them, no result.

She put on other glasses, weak, which she had not worn for a hundred years - and immediately began to see! Well, it went further. This is the second little man who, in my presence, began to see well up close - “far-sighted”. And the first grandmother, she is 80 years old, so she restored her eyesight and reads small letters calmly. Witness herself and it all started with her. And I have myopia and I calmly watch movies in them. So if you are wondering, as they say, first-hand such a result.

My eyesight really began to deteriorate - I can’t see well at close range. Without glasses, I can't even see the phone button.

Thanks to Tatyana - I bought these glasses today - they are perforated - these are such small holes on ... I wanted to say, on the glasses. But these are plastic "Glasses". In general, here is a photo of how they look, these glasses:

And now I’m reporting on my impressions: (I bought it, by the way, in optics. They cost 890 rubles.) I ask the seller - “How do they work?” She - "Read the instructions." And he asks to put on these perforated glasses and read. I say: "I will not see such small letters." She - "put on your glasses."

Well put on - look and see! Small letters. I see! You can read directly through the perforation and the letters and objects become sharper. But it is unusual, however, - the image seems to be bifurcated and you have to somehow adjust.

Now I am writing these lines in new glasses. And interestingly, when I read this instructions for glasses, I tried to bring the text very close to my eyes - almost end-to-end - 5 cm distance - and you can still see.

I spent a total of about an hour in them today. Then I took it off - and when reading my mail, I could see the text - however, vaguely, but I could read it without glasses at all. Marvelous! Have your eyes rested in these glasses, or what? In general, I am a believer in Thomas, therefore, I will continue to study them.

I'll post the results if you're interested. So n e miss it. And for today I have everything.

Round collar shirts have entered our wardrobe reliably and for a long time. If you decide to sew blouses or dresses and are faced with a round collar, then it will be useful to know the rules for sewing it. So, how to sew a round collar with your own hands.

And for sewing lovers, lessons and master classes:

How to prepare the fabric

We will need tracing paper, scissors, cloth, pencil, chalk, pins and a sewing machine. It is advisable to pre-wash and dry the fabric so that later the collar does not lead.

The cut of the round collar must correspond to the shape of the neck of the product. Therefore, you need to attach a dress or blouse to the tracing paper and draw the neckline.

Based on this line, build a drawing of the collar. Its dimensions depend on the size of the shirt. So, for example, the width of a round collar for a size 42 blouse will be 5.5 cm. Do not forget that you need to leave a seam allowance of 0.5 cm.

Construction of a collar pattern

We make a pattern for the undercut detail. With its help, we will attach the collar to the product. Its base corresponds to the shape of the base of the collar, and its height is 1.5-2 cm.

Cut out the collar along the warp thread. We trim the collar if your model requires it (then the pattern of the collar and undercut should be made smaller than the armhole by the size of the assembly). We seal the collar with interlining. Sew on a decorative overlay as desired.

How to sew a collar to a shirt or dress

Lay the two pieces of the collar together right side up. Place a non-woven lining on top. Baste the collar with a needle-forward stitch, leaving a 1.5-2 cm hole in the center of the lower base of the collar so that the collar can then be turned inside out.

Stitch the piece on the sewing machine and turn right side out. Sew up the remaining hole with overlock stitch. Iron and steam the collar.

Turn and sew the bottom and sides (i.e. those that do not connect to the neck and collar) of the undercut.

Attach the collar to the blouse, on top of it, face down, lay the hem. Baste all the pieces and then stitch them.

Then lift the undercut piece and tuck it inward, into the neck. Sew it to the wrong side of the blouse.

If you have chosen the style of the collar, then you need to cut and sew it, and then sew it correctly on a blouse, dress or shirt, this is especially important if the collar is under . The method of processing and sewing method depends on the shape of the collar. Collars are always made double, for this they are immediately cut out on fabric in two layers, but the collar should be 3 mm smaller at the bottom, and the toe line, this is done so that the corners of the collar do not bend up. Sometimes, in order for the collar to be solid, a gasket is inserted into it, the corners are cut off when sewing at the gasket so that no thickening is obtained, then the corners will turn out well and be sharp. When we sweep the collar, we will add an additive in the corners, for round collars we will add an additive on the roundings.

If the collar is round, it can be sewn immediately, we grind other styles with sharp corners in three passes. We start with the line of the sides and make the shape of the corners the same. Then the collar should be smoothed out and one side of the seam should be folded over to the lower collar, the corners cut off and turned inside out towards the collar. After that, we sweep the collar 0.5 cm from the edge and mark its middle.

The collar can be sewn using several methods, the method depends on the shape of the collar and the quality of the fabric. You can sew the collar directly to the fabric, to the neckline of a blouse or dress, or you can use a bias tape. To sew a collar adjacent to the neck, we will do this: with the upper side of the sewn collar, attach to the wrong side of the neck of the product and stitch, notch and iron the seam, bending it towards the collar. We fold the free edge of the lower collar by 0.5 cm and close it behind the machine stitches so that it is invisible. If the blouse or bodice of the dress has a clasp in front, at the edges of the collar, notches should be made, which we will tuck inward and close with hidden stitches. We sew turn-down collars together with the collar, laying the collar between the neck and the collar.

Collars can be sewn to the neck of a blouse or dress using bias tape. It is applied to the neck along with the collar. We tack collars with oblique trim to the product, combining the middle of the collar with the middle of the neck of the back, we combine the ends along the sewing line with the middle of the front. We turn the collar inside out along the line of the allowance for the fastener and we take an oblique trim equal to the circumference of the neck and neck. Then we sew the collar, neck fabric and bias trim. Now we turn the collar inside out of the product and tuck along the stitching line and along the edge of the inlay to the product, sew the free cut of the inlay to the product with an inconspicuous seam.

The trend to wear a separate collar over clothes is far from new; since the Middle Ages, fashionistas and fashionistas have paid great attention to starched racks and demonstrated neat overhead collars.

Modern needlewomen, lovers of original things and exclusive accessories, have gone much further in their fantasies and skills, thinking about how to sew a collar. In many ways, talented designers come to the aid of modern fittings, an endless variety of goods for needlework. Therefore, making overheads today is not so much difficult as exciting and interesting.

How to sew a collar will be interesting not only for a professional designer, but also for a novice amateur. Performing this detail in different techniques, you can independently choose the level of complexity and try to create your own cute gift for yourself.

Well, let's consider how to sew a collar, and what variations of it exist.

One of the methods, the easiest and fastest, is to decorate a ready-made collar from an old shirt to your taste. For this, a classic shirt with a stand-up collar is very suitable.

So, you need:

Find a shirt that matches the color and style,

Carefully cut off the collar from the main part of the product,

Process the cut edge manually or on a typewriter - the basis for creativity is ready,

Now the fun begins - decorating the collar and turning it with the magical movements of your hands into a work of art and a beautiful elegant accessory.

There are an infinite number of options here: you can play on contrasts, you can design a collar in one color scheme, playing on the overflow of halftones of the material with which you decide to decorate. It can be beads, large pearl beads, rhinestones, small and large sequins, handmade or cross-stitched. You need to imagine what clothes you are going to wear the finished product with. With or as an addition to a casual pullover.

The next option is a little more complicated, it is how to sew a collar yourself.

In order to create from scratch with your own hands, do the following:

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar. Adjust the cuts at the fillets and specify the direction of the warp thread
Figured rack, one-piece cut with a shelf and back
This model with a curly one-piece stand looks especially impressive. Thanks to such original details, the product acquires fashionable ease.

Cut the shelf from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest tuck; Transfer 0.7 cm of the chest tuck solution to the neck to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For this one-piece collar, expand the neck of the front and back by 2 cm along the shoulder; deepen the neck in the middle of the shelf by 1.5 cm and in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new neck line, on the back - at a right angle to the center line. Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the new neck of the shelf and back

From the top of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 4.5 cm.

Draw the top section of the rack. On the shelf, draw the collar in accordance with the model (see drawing).

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades
Details of the curly stand cut

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further expand the collar at the back. Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar. Adjust the cut lines at the fillets and indicate the direction of the warp thread
Rack, one-piece cut with a shelf
This model shows the construction of a rack, one-piece with only a shelf. The advantage of this type of collar is that you can change the length of the line of the upper cut of the collar by changing the angle of the back of the collar.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck and temporarily transfer the solution to the side line.

Expand the neck on the shoulder of the shelf and back by 1.5 cm; in the middle of the back, deepen the neckline by 1 cm. Draw a new neckline on the back at a right angle to the midline

Draw an auxiliary line through the extreme points of the extended neck only on the shelf. Extend this auxiliary line by an amount equal to the value of the length of the new back neck.

From the last point obtained, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line 1 cm long (for this model). The larger this value, the greater the angle of inclination of the back of the collar, the greater the length of the line of its upper cut and, accordingly, the less the collar is adjacent to the neck from behind.

Draw a line for the lower cut of the stand-up collar on its back. At right angles to the resulting line, draw the center line of the rack.

From the top of the extended neck of the shelf, draw a perpendicular to the auxiliary line, along which set aside the height of the stand - 4 cm. Set aside 4.5 cm along the middle line of the collar. Draw a line for the upper cut of the collar.
Details of the cut of the rack, one-piece cut with a shelf

A pick-up, one-piece with the inside of the collar, copy from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar.
Rack, one-piece with shelf and back and shawl lapel
On the basis of one-piece stand-up collars, you can design a variety of models using various forms of the neck, sides, lapels, etc. In the model shown below, the stand-up collar passes into the original lapel, reminiscent of a shawl collar.

Cut the shelf from the neck to the point of the center of the chest. Connect the sides of the chest tuck, transfer 0.7 cm of the solution of the chest tuck to the neck to increase it, temporarily transfer the rest of the solution to the waist.

For this collar, expand the neck of the front and back by 1.5 cm along the shoulder; deepen the neck in the middle of the back by 1 cm. Draw a new neck, on the back - at right angles to the midline.

Draw auxiliary lines through the extreme points of the neck of the shelf and back.

From the tops of the new neck of the shelf and back, draw perpendiculars to the auxiliary lines, along which set aside the height of the rack - 4 cm. Extend the middle line of the back up and set aside the height of the rack along it - 4.5 cm.

In parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line of the edge of the side and the inflection of the lapel, mark the location of the buttons. Finish off the lapel and collar.

From the point in the middle of the section of the upper cut of the collar on the back, draw a cut line to the end of the tuck on the bulge of the shoulder blades. This line is needed to transfer the solution of the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back and to lengthen the top cut.
Shawl Lapel Collar Details

Cut the back along the cut line to transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades. Transfer the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the upper cut of the rack.

After transferring the tuck to the upper cut of the collar on the back, add 0.7 cm to each side of the tuck, this will further expand the collar at the back.

Shorten the tuck for the bulge of the shoulder blades to 9-10 cm from the neck of the back.

Copy the inside of the collar and the collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.
Cutting stand in a product with lapels
Stand-up collars in products with different lapel options always look unique. If the expansion of the neckline on the front and back along the shoulder line is significant or the size of the collar on the front is very different from the size of the collar on the back, then you should copy the front of the collar and use it when building a detachable stand.

Expand the neckline along the shoulder of the shelf and backrest by 2.5 cm, deepen the neckline in the middle of the shelf by 4.5 cm and in the middle of the backrest by 1 cm. Draw a new line for the neckline of the shelf and backrest.

Parallel to the middle of the shelf, draw a line on the edge of the board. Draw the fold line of the lapel and mark the location of the buttons/loops. Draw the contours of the lapel and collar on the shelf.

Build a detachable stand-up collar based on a right angle. To do this, measure the length of the new neck of the shelf and back and set aside the resulting value along a horizontal line from the starting point. From the point obtained, set aside 3 cm vertically to determine the amount of rise in the front of the collar and draw the lower section of the stand.

The height of the collar along the midline is 4 cm. Copy the front part of the collar from the drawing of the shelf and combine it with the drawing of the collar (shaded area on the drawing of the collar). Finish the collar cuts.
Details of the cut-off stand in a product with lapels

Copy the collar and collar from the drawing. Check the length of the top cut of the collar. Increase the size of the outer part of the stand-up collar by the size of the edging of the overcast seam.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.
Cut-off post built on a greatly enlarged shelf and back neck
If the product model has a greatly enlarged neck and a high stand-up collar, then such a collar is first drawn on the front and back, then the constructed parts of the collar are copied and combined to obtain a separate collar detail. In this way, a collar is obtained, the shape of which is adapted to the model neck of the product.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck, temporarily transfer the solution to the waist.

The length of the shoulder of the shelf and back in this model is 2 cm. Draw a line of the model neck in accordance with the drawing. This line is also the bottom cut of the collar.

At a right angle to the lower cut of the collar upwards, draw a line corresponding to the line of the middle of the shelf on the collar 7 cm long. Draw the contours of the collar fastener parallel to this line.

At a right angle to the lower cut of the collar from the shoulder of the front and back, draw the sides of the collar parts 7 cm long.

Extend up the middle line of the back and set aside the height of the stand - 7 cm along it from the model neck. Draw sections of the stand-up collar through the obtained points.

Details of the cut-off stand

Copy the parts of the collar from the shelf of the back, combine them along the lines of the sides - a detail of one part of the collar is obtained. Copy this part of the collar and draw the collar closure allowance in the form of an angle.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.
Cut-off stand of soft form, cut on an oblique, in a product with lapels
For this model, the stand-up collar is cut out in one piece along the line of the upper edge in the form of a rectangle. The collar is cut out in the oblique direction of the warp thread. When stitching the finished collar into the neck, its lower sections are slightly stretched. Thanks to this, the collar beautifully wraps around the neck. The length of the lower cut of the collar is determined in the drawing.

Connect the sides of the chest tuck, temporarily transfer its solution to the side line.

The length of the shoulder of the shelf and back for this model is 2 cm. Draw a line of the edge of the side at a distance of 8 cm from the middle of the shelf. Draw a model neck in accordance with the drawing.

Draw on the shelf the contours of the collar and the curly insert of the shelf, one-piece with a lapel and a selection. Draw the back of the collar on the back according to the drawing. Stand-up collar height - 7 cm.

Measure the length of the upper sections of the collar parts on the front and back.
Details of the cut-off stand of a soft shape

This stand-up collar is cut out in the oblique direction of the warp thread, one-piece along the fly away, in the form of a rectangle. The length of the lower cut of the collar is equal to the length of the upper cut of the parts of the collar on the front and back, which is measured in the drawing.

The curly insert of the shelf, one-piece with a lapel and a selection, is copied from the drawing and mirrored with respect to the fold line. Connect the sides of the chest tuck.

Correct the cuts at the mates and indicate the direction of the warp thread.