Do-it-yourself square academic hat. Paper square graduate cap

Carnival costume with a confederate for kindergarten

If the event for kids is not solemn, but entertaining, the easiest way is to make an academic cap out of paper.

The cap consists of two parts - the upper part, to which the tassel is attached, and the lower part, the band, which is put on the head. The tassel of "real" graduates is loosely fastened to a button, because during the graduation ceremony it is thrown to the other side of the head, symbolizing the transition to a new educational level.

For a children's confederate, you can simply glue the tassel into the corner of its upper part, but if you really want to, you can sew an academic cap according to all the rules, even if it will be a little more difficult.

We make the length of the band in proportion to the girth of the head, leaving the opportunity to freely put on the headdress so that it does not tear. Chioba to make the upper part, cut out a regular rhombus from cardboard.

The parts of the cap are glued together with a strip of paper. It will be most beautiful if you make such a confederate from velvet colored paper.

DIY student confederate

For the manufacture of confederates, gabardine satin and velvet are most often used.

Option 1

For the base we use thick cardboard. We cut out a square from it, a side of about thirty centimeters. We cut out a square from the selected fabric, which is enough to wrap the cardboard base in an envelope, plus add a couple of centimeters on each side to the seams.
We put the cardboard base on top of the spread fabric, fold the corners and glue to the middle: first, two opposite corners, glue a brush between them, then fold and glue the rest. Let's turn the cut lines on them inward.
We measure the girth of the head and proceed to the manufacture of the lower part of the confederate. We cut a strip of fabric with a width equal to the girth of the head and a height of about 25 centimeters.
We fold the strip along (the edges are different - 10 and 15 centimeters) and iron.
We unfold, along the fold line (along the ten-centimeter side) we glue the dublerin (six layers, seven centimeters wide), wrap the edge of the fabric on it.
Again we turn the face inward, after which we need to stitch the crown, turn it out and bend along the ironed lines.
Gather the fabric, sew to the top of the hat.

Option 2

We select the basis for our confederate hat: the easiest solution is to take thick cardboard or cut a strip from a plastic bottle 15 cm wide. We connect the strip into a ring and fasten the ends with a pin or paper clip. We measure its length, add one and a half centimeters for the seams.

We take a piece of fabric 150 by 150 cm, proceed to sewing.

Band: fold the cut “face” inward, cut it with allowances for a longitudinal cut of 15 cm, for transverse cuts of 1.5 cm. We sew the transverse sections into a ring, insert a plastic (or cardboard) base inside, fasten its ends with a stapler. We try on, adjust the length. We tighten the fabric to make a cap, cut off the excess fabric.

Tula: cut out a rhombus from cardboard and two rhombuses from fabric (not forgetting to leave it on the seams). Fold inward with the right side, sew together, leaving one side. We turn it inside out, insert cardboard, sew in a tassel, sew the crown and band together.

Instruction

Measure the circumference of your head. Apply a centimeter tape strictly parallel to the floor, placing it above the eyebrows. To this value, it is necessary to make an increase in free fit - literally 1-2 mm. Then add another two inches of seam allowance.

Draw a rectangle on the pattern paper. Its long side will be equal to the result of the calculations described above. To find out the length of the short side of the rectangle, measure the distance from the eyebrow line vertically to the crown of the head. This parameter is best measured with two hard rulers: put one flat on the back of the head, attach the second to the forehead and mark on it the point of intersection with the first ruler.

Add another one and a half centimeters to the bottom of the pattern to fold and hem the bottom edge of the confederate.

Draw the second part of the headdress in the form of a square with a side of 20 cm. Add a seam allowance (1 cm) around the perimeter. Cut out two pieces of fabric using this pattern. Then cut out another square from thick cardboard using the same drawing, but without allowances.

Take a paper pattern of a square. Using a ruler, divide all sides in half and with tailor's chalk draw lines connecting the midpoints of opposite sides. Place the point of a compass at the intersection of the segments. Draw a circle for them, the diameter of which is equal to the girth of the head with an allowance for a free fit. From the same center, draw a circle with a diameter 2 cm smaller. Cut out the smaller circle. Then make cuts to the line of the next circle (the distance between the notches is 1.5 cm). Transfer this pattern to one of the details of the confederate.

Fold both squares with the right side to each other and sew along the perimeter, stepping back from the edge of 1 cm. Turn the workpiece through the round hole and insert the cardboard into it.

Connect the rectangular part into a cylinder, laying a seam along its smaller side. Stitch the top of the confederate to the bottom, connecting them with flaps around the round hole. Then hem the underside of the headdress or sheathe it with an oblique trim.

To make a confederate tassel, take a 17 cm long cord. Unravel it by about 3 cm. Sew the upper end of the tassel to the confederate strictly in the center.

Raincoats are back in fashion. Representatives of many subcultures know that these are not only beautiful and strange clothes, but also reliable protection from the weather. Here's how you can sew such beauty.

You will need

Dense fabric (cloth, canvas tarpaulin) about 120 cm wide and four times your height;
Sewing machine or thread with a needle;
Scissors;
graph paper;
Hook fasteners;
Iron.

Instruction

Sew the third and fourth pieces in the same way. Sheathe the bottom and top edges (semicircles). Make sure they remain semicircles.

Overcast, cut and sew both pieces so that the fabric does not fray.

Sew the hooks to the cape. Ready!

Helpful advice

Do not cut the fabric "back to back", leave one centimeter in reserve.

Magnificent royal attire is inconceivable without a golden crown, a scepter and a purple mantle - a wide long cape trimmed with precious ermine fur. Therefore, if you are going to arrive at the New Year's carnival in the honorary role of a monarch, try not to miss a single detail when making your costume. Choose bright red satin or velvet for royal purple and you are guaranteed to be the center of attention at any ball. After all, who, if not a royal person, is worthy of royal honors!

You will need

- dense red fabric (such as satin or velvet);
- white faux fur or terry cloth;
- large shiny button or brooch;
- cotton wool;
- black acrylic paint;
- graph paper, sewing accessories and a sewing machine.

Instruction

Measure your neck circumference and desired length. Build its pattern: draw a semicircle on a large piece of graph paper, the radius of which is equal to the length of the product. From the same center, draw a second semicircle with a radius equal to the circumference of the neck divided by twice the number π. For freedom of fitting in the neck area, slightly lengthen the inner semicircle by adding 1-1.5 cm on both sides and adjusting the neck line.

carve out mantle from red fabric (allowances for seams in all sections - 1.5 cm). From white faux fur or terry cloth, cut out a cape (with allowances for seams) according to the mantle pattern shortened to the desired length. Cut out the same part of the cape from the white lining fabric.

From the same fleecy white material, cut out a trim for the mantle ( a wide strip sewn along the edge). To do this, use the same pattern, marking the outline of the rim on it and dividing it into three parts: two front strips and one semicircular one running along the bottom of the product.

Stitch both parts of the cape in three sections (except for the neckline), folding them face to face, turn them inside out, straighten the corners and iron through the iron. Connect the details of the fringe with each other with diagonal connecting lines: lay adjacent strips on top of each other face to face, aligning the edges and lay a line at an angle of 45 degrees from the outer edge to the inner. Trim excess fabric and iron the corners.

On the wrong side of the red mantle, lay the trim with the right side and lay a line along the three sections of the mantle (except for the neck). Turn the hem right side out, straighten the corners, cut the allowances to 0.5 cm and iron the edges of the cape. Tuck the loose edges of the trim inward and stitch the piece onto the mantle.

Lay the cape right side up on the wrong side of the mantle and line up the neckline. Baste the fleece cape piece to the mantle and sew with machine stitching. Tuck the part of the cape from the lining fabric and sew it to the allowances of the cut of the neck by hand - this way this cut will be completely closed.

Ermine tails with black tips can be imitated with the help of felted and tinted with black oblong cotton balls sewn onto the mantle. Or you can just paint the white cape with black paint “under the ermine”.

If you want to sew a decent robe, you need to have at least some understanding of cutting and sewing. And of course, it is better to be guided by a special instruction.

Before you start sewing a real mantle, you should find suitable patterns. In principle, any straight shirt with straight sleeves without darts on the shoulder line will do. Cut the pattern to your size. It is allowed to use a pattern one size larger if you need a winter version of a mantle made of dense fabric. By the way, you need to reshoot only two parts - the back and the sleeve.

Then you will need to lay out the fabric on a large table and complete the pattern at certain points. Patterns of the back and shelves are almost the same. So you can make only one detail and, if necessary, bend everything superfluous. It is better to cut along the shared or perpendicular to it. In the second case, you will save a lot of fabric. But in such a case as tailoring a mantle, it is better to do without saving material. Otherwise, you will simply end up with a warped fabric that is unsuitable for sewing.

Redraw the back pattern on a large sheet of tracing paper. You can ignore the tucks. Then you need to mark point A on the pattern, and from it set aside down to the middle of the back a value that will be equal to the length of the mantle. Mark point H and connect it with a straight line to point A. This will be the bottom line. Now you need to put 8 cm down from the first point and mark point A3. Next, set aside 25 cm from point A and mark point A1. On the pattern of the back, point A2 should be marked and a perpendicular should be drawn from it to the bottom line. Point H1 should be marked at their intersection.

From the above point to the bottom line, set aside about 15 centimeters and mark the point H2. Connect it to A2 in a straight line. Now it is necessary to postpone from the point H2 5 centimeters up and mark the point H3. In this case, the points H and H3 must be connected by a smooth line. From point H along the bottom line, set aside 15 cm to the right and mark H4. Connect the last line with point A1. Climb up that line 2 cm up and mark the point H5. Points H5 and H must also be connected by a straight line. Cut out the paper pattern along the line of the back.

After cutting, you can safely proceed to sewing. It is quite simple - you will need to connect two side seams, two shoulder seams and a middle back seam. In order to cut the sleeve, you will also need a pattern from the magazine. Cut it into two parts through the point of the middle of the sleeve. From the half, which should be sewn to the back, cut out the whole piece and mark on it the line of the sleeve of the mantle OR. After the performed manipulations, draw a perpendicular to the line of the sleeve and set aside along it values equal to half the width of the sleeve. Connect points P1 and P2 with smooth lines to O2 and O1. Then, along these segments, set aside 2 cm up and mark the points P3 and P4. After connecting the points P, P3 and P4, the sleeve pattern can be considered complete. Carefully sew the seam of the sleeve and sew into the armholes.

No special pattern is needed for the hood. You need to cut out a rectangle of arbitrary size and fold it with short sides to each other. Sew along one of the long sides. Measure the neckline of the mantle along the backs and fronts. There will be a difference between the value obtained and the width of the hood. It can simply be removed into the folds along the sewing line. It remains to sew the hood to the mantle and the process will be completed.

Sources:

How to sew a mantle.

The blue hats that triumphant students toss up at graduation are erroneously called Confederate hats. In fact, it is more correct to designate square caps as academic ones. However, in order to sew this student symbol, it is not necessary to understand the names - it is more important to understand the pattern.

Instruction

Measure the circumference of your head. Apply a centimeter tape strictly parallel to the floor, placing it above the eyebrows. To this value, it is necessary to make an increase in free fit - literally 1-2 mm. Then add another two inches of seam allowance.
Draw a rectangle on the pattern paper. Its long side will be equal to the result of the calculations described above. To find out the length of the short side of the rectangle, measure the distance from the eyebrow line vertically to the crown of the head. This parameter is best measured with two hard rulers: put one flat on the back of the head, attach the second to the forehead and mark on it the point of intersection with the first ruler.
Add another one and a half centimeters to the bottom of the pattern to fold and hem the bottom edge of the confederate.
Draw the second part of the headdress in the form of a square with a side of 20 cm. Add a seam allowance (1 cm) around the perimeter. Cut out two pieces of fabric using this pattern. Then cut out another square from thick cardboard using the same drawing, but without allowances.
Take a paper pattern of a square. Using a ruler, divide all sides in half and with tailor's chalk draw lines connecting the midpoints of opposite sides. Place the point of a compass at the intersection of the segments. Draw a circle for them, the diameter of which is equal to the girth of the head with an allowance for a free fit. From the same center, draw a circle with a diameter 2 cm smaller. Cut out the smaller circle. Then make cuts to the line of the next circle (the distance between the notches is 1.5 cm). Transfer this pattern to one of the details of the confederate.
Fold both squares with the right side to each other and sew along the perimeter, stepping back from the edge of 1 cm. Turn the workpiece through the round hole and insert the cardboard into it.
Connect the rectangular part into a cylinder, laying a seam along its smaller side. Stitch the top of the confederate to the bottom, connecting them with flaps around the round hole. Then hem the underside of the headdress or sheathe it with an oblique trim.
To make a confederate tassel, take a 17 cm long cord. Unravel it by about 3 cm. Sew the upper end of the tassel to the confederate strictly in the center.

How to make a square graduate hat out of paper?

In Europe, this headdress is called The square academic cap, graduate cap. A graduate's cap with a square top and a tassel (called "confederate" by some) and "master's cap".

We do not wear them and are usually used for staged events - mainly at graduation parties. It is clear that sewing such hats for a whole class for the sake of a few minutes on stage is irrational. You can also glue it from black cardboard. Therefore, we formulate the topic of today's post as follows: How to make a square graduate hat out of cardboard (or paper) with your own hands.

I will make such a hat for you from thick wrapping paper, I will come up with a way right along the way. My “graduate” is Manyasha (as I called my mannequin of a human head))). It is necessary to adjust the cap to the size of her head. For me, for example, hats are needed much more, and besides, you need to take into account the hairstyle. This is all to ensure that you do not automatically copy the dimensions.

Let's start with the walls. I take a strip of paper 60 centimeters long and about 15 wide. Here the question may arise - why so wide? But because if we need the cap not to lie on the crown of the head with a pancake, but to keep it due to the fact that it is pulled over the head, then - yes - the height of the crown should be very fair.

I bend one edge - about 2 centimeters, quite often I cut and glue it - it turns out a two-layer bottom edge of the cap. Why was it cut? - And then, that you have to give an oval shape to the head, it's better if the inner layer is not rigid.

Now I measure 10 centimeters, draw, bend the remaining strip from the other side and cut it very often. And I try on Manyasha - so, the total length of the strip for her is 52 centimeters.

I glue it and again try it on the head, crush it in shape, it turns out an oval cylinder. Wow! Exactly what - not a circle, but an oval. I put it in the middle of a square sheet and circle the oval from the inside with a felt-tip pen.

I cut a hole a little more, that is, not quite along the circled line, but 1 millimeter back to the edge of the sheet.

I put this square sheet with a hole on the cylinder - I check whether it fits.

Everything is fine. Now we need to design the top of the hat. I apply a square with an oval slot to a large sheet of paper, circle it and figure out what indents to make.

Perhaps 3 centimeters will be just right. The corners will need to be cut. I fold the edges along the lines.

While let him wait, we will glue the walls and the bottom surface of the cap. I thickly smear the edge of the oval with glue-pencil, quickly put it on and glue the bent cut edge.

Again I try on Manyasha - everything is fine, it does not warp. I smear the edge of the square with glue and glue it precisely to the curved edges of the top blank. I prefer to act this way - I apply glue not to the bends and valves, but to the surface to which they are glued.

Well, here is the hat. Now the last detail is a brush, I will make it out of paper too. Judging by the pictures from the Internet, tassels are usually long, and the lace is attached to the center of the cap.

I take a narrow strip of paper, fold it in four and glue it together - this is a "lace". I cut a strip of paper about 10 centimeters wide with a fringe and roll it into a roll - a brush.

By the way, not everything is so simple with a brush - here is a quote from one forum about these same graduate caps:
By the location of the tassel on the confederate cap, you can find out the degree: if it is on the right, then you have a student in front of you, if on the left - a graduate. When receiving a diploma, a ceremony is held to transfer the tassel from one half of the hat to the other. Here are the subtleties!

I made this master's hat out of paper only to show the manufacturing principle itself. But I needed to make one for a performance and the question arose - how should I paint it black. There was no A3 black cardboard for sale, but you can’t cook porridge with A5 leaves from children’s work kits. So what to do? Buying a can of black nitro paint or a can of acrylic spray for the sake of one hat is somehow unnecessary. I decided to try to cover the cap with a relatively inexpensive black lining fabric. But in the store I saw an amazing material - interlining - and the issue was resolved. I cut a cardboard hat in approximately the same dimensions, but glued every detail with interlining, sits on a glue stick like a native! It turned out like this:

Now I'll weave a tassel from a black shoelace and - go ahead, my homemade master!

Marina Novikova told you how to make a square graduate cap with your own hands out of paper.

Where did she come from?

There is an opinion that the square academic cap originated from the traditional headdress of Latin priests, called biretta. Caps were red and sometimes black and were required to be worn by the Catholic clergy. Red color in those days was recognized as a symbol of royal power, so only noble Italians could wear birettes of this color.

Black hats were intended for scientists and people who devoted themselves to art. Muslim traditions also influenced the academic cap. Madrasah graduates wore a square hat. This form was invented so that the Koran could be placed on it. In this way, scientists showed others that they had learned all the laws of the Koran and completely mastered it.

However, another opinion takes us to Poland. Since 1768, the Polish military wore a square cap. The headdress had no visor, and the top was decorated with a tassel. He called himself a Confederate.. Prestigious institutions such as Cambridge and Oxford are descended from church schools, for which reason students are required to wear monastic attire. Initially, these clothes were worn daily, but soon acquired a special meaning.

The four-sided cap became a sign of an academic degree and the level of knowledge gained. That is only those students and teachers who had special merits to the university could wear it.

What are the hats?

Initially, the square academic cap had two colors: red and black. As we have already said, the scarlet headdress was intended for noble gentlemen and priests, and the black headdress was for persons occupying an honorable place in society, but without any title. So, for example, black birettas were worn by doctors, professors, musicians, sculptors or artists. Now too there is a certain tint classification of these square hats, but more extended.

Confederates vary in color depending on the area that the student is mastering:

white color - history, art, literature;
gray - veterinary;
blue - jurisprudence, philosophy, politics;
yellow - mathematics, physics;
bright yellow tint - agriculture;
dark green color - foreign languages;
light green - pharmaceuticals;
red - economy; business administration, business;
purple color - architecture;
blue tint - pedagogy, theology;
pink color - music;
orange - military science, tactics;
brown - theatrical art.

Not only a certain shade of the cap could be responsible for the area under study. Sometimes all the vestments were made in a single scale. But more often, the cap and mantle are sewn from black fabric, and the tassel on the confederate and the scarf are made in the color that corresponds to the education received.

A little about the traditions associated with it

Only since the 1990s has the square academic cap become the main headwear for students who have graduated from a higher educational institution. Moreover, only state universities gave out these clothes, this practice has never been in private schools. The owner's name was embroidered on the inside of each cap. And this is connected with one interesting tradition.

After receiving a diploma of higher education, students gathered in front of the university and at the same time tossed their hats up, thus paying tribute to the school for the knowledge gained. After that, everyone could find their headdress by the name embroidered on it.

Not only the hat matters, but also the tassel that adorns it.. After all, it is located there for a reason. The brush has an unusual name liripip. Students should wear it on the right side of the confederate shirt, and those who have already passed all the exams and are waiting for their diploma - on the left side. Sometimes, from right to left, the liripip is thrown precisely at the presentation of a diploma. In some educational institutions, students of excellent students have brushes not black, but red or gold, in addition, they are 10-12 cm longer than the standard liripip.