The dress is a straight pattern narrowed to the bottom. Patterns - from simple to complex. Dart modeling options

fashion designer

Hello dear readers!

The purpose of our lesson is to learn how to model dresses based on a basic pattern. The kind that beginners can handle. In addition, we will analyze simple styles of dresses that suit the type of your figure, on the example of which you can, if you wish, create more complex models, enriching them with details and using a combination of textures of fabrics and colors.

They sometimes write to us: "It is very difficult for me to buy ready-made clothes, my figure is an inverted triangle, besides, I have a very decent bust and a wide chest, that is, my chest volume is 102 cm - this is a very big disappointment for me. I don't I have the opportunity to purchase for myself no thing, because the rest of the parameters of the figure go to 44-46 size ... What style can I choose?

Of course, having parameters that do not fit into the framework of the standards, it is difficult to find something to your liking in the store, and sometimes going for a new thing turns into one frustration. Well, well, you should not be sad, especially for a person who has at least a little experience in tailoring. And with patterns, simple ones that even a novice tailor can create, we will try to help. It's no secret that all dresses in the world are sewn using one universal pattern, modifying and modeling it. Having such an invaluable tool in your arsenal, the creation of which on our website will not take much time, you will be able to dress according to your taste and image invented by you.

First, what is a basic pattern? This is a pattern without model features, roughly speaking, this is a human figure made in a two-dimensional plane. The pattern has a different degree of fit, depending on what type of clothing will be designed in the future - upper (coat, jacket) or light (dress, blouse, corset, etc.), and differs in the amount of freedom. Therefore, on our website you will find and, as well as, they will differ in increases, which is very important. By the way, on our site, along with the possibility of building a basic pattern according to individual sizes, there are already a number of models of dresses that are absolutely different in cut and suitable for women of different types of figures. You can also use them, especially since each size is presented in three heights, and this is very important for a good fit of the finished product.

So, having a basic pattern on hand, we can proceed directly to modeling. First, let's choose a dress model. This item must be taken very responsibly, objectively assessing your appearance, figure, image as a whole. After all, it is no secret that we are all different people, each of us has his own individual figure, sometimes not fitting into the so-called "ideal framework", especially since this very ideal is different in every time period, it is changeable according to fashion trends. We will not adjust ourselves to the standards and love our individuality. All female figures are conditionally divided into several body types, and each of us belongs to one or another type to a greater or lesser extent.

Illustration from https://high-fashion21.ru

Modeling a dress for the type of figure "Triangle" (pear)

A pear-shaped figure is very feminine, but sometimes it brings some difficulties to the owner when choosing a finished dress due to the difference in the girths of the hips and chest. You shouldn't get upset. First, let's figure out which style to choose. We narrow the bottom and focus on the upper part: a boat-shaped neckline, a large collar, a neckline, a bright print in the upper part of the dress, the bottom can be slightly flared, do not forget about the use of contrasting inserts that run along the dress and visually model the figure, as well as a little high waist, heels and matching tights will make you slimmer. We try to avoid decor in the hips, patch pockets, draperies, transverse stripes and large prints.

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on. The style is interesting in that the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the female figure of just the lower type in the best and most advantageous way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and the white silhouette, expanding upwards, will bring to the fore the built silhouette. But, here you can’t be too smart with excessive narrowing of the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to expand the skirt a little to the bottom.

Modeling. On the details of the back and front pattern, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to the middle line of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest dart in the armhole, read more about transferring darts here. It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the circumferences of the waist and hips is large and the solutions of the tucks for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the tuck must be divided into two, otherwise ugly creases in the waist area will appear in the finished product.

In the second version of modeling, we offer to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A-line, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.

Modeling a dress for the type of figure "Inverted Triangle"

Your strong point is narrow hips and long slender legs. We focus on them. The whole decor, bright prints - down on the skirt. We reduce the width of the shoulders, raglan sleeves will help us here, or the absence of sleeves at all in summer clothes, a dress with a shoulder strap on one shoulder, a Greek silhouette, a loose tunic, a dress with a tulip skirt can become a lifesaver and be loved in your wardrobe. You can afford to wear puffy wide skirts, peplum skirts or trousers, straight-cut dresses, but not too voluminous and wide, with vertical seams or trim.

As an example, let's analyze the modeling of a simple dress pattern suitable for this type of figure. It features a fitted, sleeveless bodice and a tulip skirt that adds volume to the hips. The dress is cut off along the waistline, on the front panel of the skirt there are two opposite folds, on the back panel of the skirt a cut is made.

Let's start modeling by applying to the details of the back and shelves embossed lines (if you want a better fit or the fabric is knitted, you can use the base pattern of the adjacent silhouette). We will arrange the thallium tucks on the front panel of the skirt into folds - cut the skirt part from the end of the tucks vertically down, push the parts apart so that in the upper part we get a gap of approximately 6-8 cm to form deep counter folds. At the bottom, the volume of the skirt will be kept in its original form.

Modeling dresses for the type of figure "Hourglass"

The type of figure "hourglass" is the most feminine, it is he who is rightfully considered the standard to follow and we try to bring our figure closer to it, at least with the help of clothes. Lucky women with this type of physique. The main advice is to focus on the waist, so you will further emphasize your femininity and sexuality. Necklines, bows, pencil skirts, stilettos - this is your win-win look.

Let's model such a simple dress, in two versions.

The model is quite simple at first glance, but with the right choice of fabric and accessories, it is very effective.For modeling we need And . The dress is detachable along the waist line, the skirt is expanded to the bottom. Darts for fitting the chest are transferred to the neck: in the first version - darts from the neck are stitched with an allowance outward, a small sleeve with a fold, in the second version - darts on the chest are distributed into folds coming from the neck, there are no sleeves.

Modeling. Step 1 - on the details of the back, the tuck for the roundness of the shoulder can be neglected, because. the neckline of the back is deep enough and widened, but the amount of the opening must be taken from the length of the shoulder so as not to upset the balance. For the convenience of modeling, we will translate the tuck on the shelf into an armhole. Cut the details of the skirt pattern lengthwise from the darts down.

Next, step 2 of the simulation. Let's outline a new neckline according to the sketch. We will transfer the thallium tuck on the shelf to the neck, and we will also transfer the tuck from the armhole there. Read more about the translation of tucks. When designing a detachable adjacent silhouette, the pattern of the shelf detail must be lowered by 1 cm around the waist, this will give a better fit and prevent it from pulling up when finished. Skirt. We connect the parts of the pattern, obtained after cutting the details of the skirt, so that the darts open to the bottom. We will correct the side sections and the bottom of the product.

Sleeve modeling. You can take a pattern for the base of the sleeve on ours. First, shorten the length to the required. With the help of vertical cuts going from the edge to the bottom of the part, and the subsequent separation of the parts of the pattern, design an oncoming fold.

More sleeve modeling can be found in this

In the second version of the dress, the tucks on the shelf are translated into folds coming from the neck. Modeling will be discussed below.

Modeling a dress for the type of figure "Oval" (apple)

Oval shape (apple). In the era of Rubens, women with this type of figure were the ideal of perfection. The silhouette is visually close in shape to the letter "o". The strategy in the right choice of clothing will be to emphasize, accentuate the waist, this can be done by choosing a dress that expands slightly towards the bottom, as well as using belts, decorative inserts that make the waist visually narrower, the top of the dress should be slightly expanded, for example, use a V-shaped neckline, collars . Sheath dresses, wraps, low waist, A-line dresses will suit you.

Let's take this dress as an example. It is interesting because it has a contrasting decorative line running along the dress. Visually, this very stretches the silhouette and slims. In addition, the dress is loose at the waist and slightly expands towards the bottom, which is undoubtedly a plus for this type of figure. Clear cut lines and a choice of fabric that holds its shape create the right image and collect the figure as a whole. To simulate this model, we will use , for a better fit.

Modeling. The side cuts of the parts are straight, because The dress has a straight loose silhouette. We will transfer the tuck on the bulge of the chest to the side seam and outline the relief line. Shorten the pattern of the sleeve detail just above the elbow.

In the details obtained, we outline the front yoke and cut it off.

Modeling a dress for the type of figure "Rectangle"

Rectangle female figure. For modern models is the most typical. Therefore, when buying ready-made clothes, there are usually no problems, but sometimes you really want something special! That's where our modeling tips and patterns come in handy!)) Women with this body type do not need to try to look like Marilyn Monroe or Sophia Loren, this is not your style. Dresses and clothes in the image of Twiggy, Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman and Coco Chanel herself, that's what we are striving for.

We chose the right dress for the modeling lesson. We need a pattern this time. Sleeveless dress, free-cut with an opposite pleat going down from the neck, fastened at the bottom to give the product an oval silhouette. Pockets can be made in the side seams.

It is the dress that can make you more feminine and beautiful, convey your romantic or sensual mood, emphasize the dignity of your figure and hide flaws, visually make the figure more slender. A dress can save in a situation where there is no time to match a blouse with a skirt or trousers, a jacket, etc. Due to the variety of styles with the help of a dress, you can create a variety of images: from business to sexy. The main thing is to choose the right style of dress for your figure.

MODELING OF A DRESS FOR A TRIANGLE (PEAR) BODY TYPE

For an example of modeling, we will choose a simple sheath dress created on a pattern-based adjoining silhouette. The style is interesting in that the model lines forming the silhouette demonstrate the female figure of just the lower type in the best and most advantageous way. Dark inserts running along the side seams will help to visually hide the width of the hips, and the white silhouette, expanding upwards, will bring to the fore the built silhouette. But, here you can’t be too smart with excessive narrowing of the skirt, and if the difference between the girths of the chest and hips is large, it is better to expand the skirt a little to the bottom.

Modeling. On the details of the back and front pattern, draw model lines of reliefs passing from the armholes to the bottom of the dress through the waist darts, on the back, transfer part of the solution to the middle line of the back, for the greatest fit in this area. Open the chest tuck in the armhole. It remains only to outline the allowance for the slot. If the difference between the circumferences of the waist and hips is large and the solutions of the tucks for fitting are more than 3-3.5 cm each, the tuck must be divided into two, otherwise ugly creases in the waist area will appear in the finished product.

In the second version of modeling, we propose to expand the skirt to the bottom, make it the so-called A-shaped silhouette, you can also make the dress cut off at the waist.

Modeling a dress for the type of figure "Inverted Triangle"

Today, more than ever, simplicity of cutting clothes is in trend. The loose dress has been a hit for several seasons in a row. Only the density of the material, the decor change, and some modeling moments are introduced, but basically the cut remains unchanged. The pattern of a free dress is quite simple to build, so even the most inexperienced seamstress will cope with sewing such a product. Of course, you can easily go to the store and buy the finished product. But independent tailoring has a lot of advantages, the main of which is the cost, which allows you to treat yourself to a couple of new things for the same money. How to sew a loose dress at home, and will be discussed further.

Material selection

A loose dress is best sewn from knitted fabric. It should be chosen based on the time of year. For winter, you can take angora or wool, for spring and autumn - diving, footer, jersey, for summer, stretch cooler and micro-oil will be ideal. Also in the work you can use dress fabrics with a transverse stretch. The advantage of stretch fabrics is that they wrinkle less. And given that the free dress is wide enough, this fact plays in favor of the appearance of the thing.

Sewing preparation

Calculations and taking measurements are an integral part of the process of creating blanks for any product. The free dress pattern is based on the following body measurements:

bust, waist and hips;
chest height;
back and shoulder width;
back and front height to the waist;
length of the product;
girth of the upper arm;
neck circumference.

All measurements should be recorded on a piece of paper to make it easier to transfer them to the drawing.

Creating a pattern

A loose dress, as a rule, has either a trapezoid shape or a straight silhouette. The template for both models is the same, and all additional elements are built during the modeling process. The template is best done on a piece of wallpaper or construction film. The latter option is more practical if you plan to create not one, but several dresses.

So, in order to sew a free one, you will first need to develop a pattern based on the measurements taken. First, you should draw a rectangle in which half of the back and half of the front will be built. The upper and lower sides should be equal to half the girth of the chest, and the sides - the length of the product. From the upper corner, you need to step back by the size of the measurements “chest height” and “back and front height to the waist” and draw additional horizontal lines. The first will be the chest line, and the second will be the waist line. From the latter, you should retreat another 20 cm and mark the line of the hips. Continuing to create the basic grid, you should note the width of the back and calculate the width of the armhole in order to draw additional verticals. To do this, along the chest line from the left side of the rectangle, the value of the measurement “back width” recede and put a point from which the armhole begins. To calculate its length, you need to divide half of the chest volume by 4 and add 2 cm. This value is also marked on the chest line and put a dot. The rest will refer to the front shelf.

Next, proceed to the designation of the shoulder seams and neck. Everything is quite simple here: the value corresponding to half the girth of the neck recedes from the upper corners and the shoulder area is highlighted. In this case, the extreme point should be underestimated by 1 cm, and from the side of the back, the rounding of the neck should be raised by 1 cm, and the shoulder seam should also be drawn with a bevel of 1 cm. point, connecting it with the edges of the shoulder seams. From this central point, the side seams are lowered down, which are somewhat parted to the sides to the bottom line, in accordance with the volume of the hips.

The loose dress eliminates waist darts, which simplifies the construction of the template. However, if the fit is not satisfactory, the product can be fitted a little from the back.

Sleeve construction

For a free cut, it will be enough to process the armhole. A warmer version will need to be supplemented with a sleeve. It can be one-piece or set-in. They are built in different ways. If you continue the shoulder seam and, cutting the details of the base of the dress along the side seam, remove the lower cut of the sleeve from it, a one-piece version will come out. For a set-in sleeve, you will need to fold the details of the base along the shoulders and transfer the cut of the armhole to a separate sheet for the drawing. After that, along the upper rounding, you will need to rise by 1.5 cm and draw a circle based on the outline of the resulting line. On the lower border of this figure, in the center, you should place the measurement of the girth of the upper part of the arm and draw an okat, descending along the borders of the circle and reduced to a straight line.

decorative elements

The dress will come out truly sophisticated if you use the decor correctly. For example, plain knitwear can be diluted with lace inserted into the shoulders or around the neck. You can also beat a contrasting combination of canvases of the same quality. Loose dresses, photos of which are presented in the article, have various decorative embellishments that can serve as an example or become more interesting design ideas.

In addition to the standard decoration options, you can experiment with textures. For example, make a dress with a light chiffon collar and sleeves with mother-of-pearl buttons. In combination with dark knitwear, this dress will be a great office option.

Do not forget about such elements as pockets, they will perfectly complement loose dresses. Photos of finished products on models will allow you to determine the most appropriate location of these elements. Welted, overhead and with a leaflet, decorated with rag roses, rhinestones and sewn-on stones on a strict silhouette of a wide cut, they will look very harmonious and make the image interesting and stylish.

Assembly of parts

In order for the product to come out of high quality, you need to sew all its elements in the correct sequence. First of all, work is carried out with the front shelf, in particular, pockets and other model elements are made out. Next comes the turn of the shoulder seams and stitching of the sleeves. After that, the side sections are closed and the collar is sewn to the neck. Next comes the turn of processing the bottom of the sleeves and hem.

Ready-made patterns are useful, but sometimes it is difficult to implement an unusual idea, your own idea and sew a dress “like in a magazine” with them. In this case, it is necessary to model a new drawing, taking the base one as a basis. This will allow you to sew the product according to your parameters.

Modeling a dress is the process of changing a finished drawing or creating a new one based on the visual image of clothing (from a magazine, from a catwalk). The style is altered according to the features of the physique, so that the sewn thing sits well and fits the build and type of figure. A striking example is the modification of a straight dress or a classic "case". On their base pattern, you can expand the hem, add sleeves, move the waistline, make additional tucks if the difference between the waist and hips is large.

In all cases of modeling, the term “basic pattern” is used. This is a universal basis-pattern, according to which a new one is created that meets the requirements and wishes of the master.

Model individual products, following the sequence of steps:

model development - adjustment of the basic pattern or creation of a new one;
design of parts and the method of their connection;
taking measurements;
transferring measurements to paper, and then to matter.

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Modeling techniques

There are several well-studied, "working" methods for creating individual things. Using one of them, you can easily model the product you need. The traditional way is "tatting". This is an old technique, according to which the product is modeled and sewn on a mannequin or directly on a human figure. Perform a tattoo with pins and "invisibles".

An equally simple way is a fake one. It allows you to process the shape of the finished product and display it in the desired size. For modeling, standardized patterns are used, they work according to a base pattern or build a design structure. The method is widely used when trying on things when sewing.

The most common method is computational modeling. According to it, on the basis of a conditionally typical drawing, a pattern of the desired size is created. The drawing is built according to geometric calculations. Within the method, there are several directions:

proportional-calculated;
settlement and analytical;
settlement and graphic;
customer-oriented.

First of all, the famous Muller method is considered. It involves tailoring things with a long back, medium chest and narrow hips. Also included in the calculation is the Lin Jacques technique for a conditionally standard figure with special tables for measurement. And a variant developed in the Russian Republican House of Models. It is simple - formulas and lengthy calculations are not needed to build patterns.

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Customer-oriented methods are based on the desire for individualization.

"Lubaks" - taking into account horizontal and vertical lines, setting the norm for figures of a certain type and choosing patterns, the value of which is adjusted according to body parameters.
"Unimex" is the simplest, fastest method of tailoring according to the characteristics of the body of a particular person.
"Genetics of the cut of G. Zlachevskaya" - tailoring of dresses according to the principle of "golden section".

Start of simulation

Before modeling a summer, warm or evening dress, you need to measure the body parameters as accurately as possible and calculate the numbers to refine the base drawing. We must not forget about the gains for freedom of fitting - they depend on the chosen silhouette, style and type of fabric (elastic, thin, dense).

If you are sewing a dress from a photo, you need to understand what kind of base you will need. Then transfer its details to tracing paper using the standard sequence of actions.
Draw the main axis on your drawing - this is the middle line of the shelf. To build it, they are guided by the jugular fossa on the torso, at the center between the most protruding points of the chest, at the midpoints between the vertical lines of the structure.
Draw perpendiculars along the constructive points - these are the lines of the chest, hips, shoulders and waist (plus the knee if the dress is elongated).
Design a basic grid that takes into account the depth of the neck, the height of the hip and chest, and the knee line.

Having created a grid, you can compare the conditional dimensions with the real "dimensions". The base frame is designed according to measurements taken from the body. The more accurate they are, the better the thing will sit. When measuring, you need to stand straight, do not slouch, do not pull in your stomach.

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Dart modeling options

Most often, in the process of changing the pattern, chest tucks are transferred. The shape of the shoulders and chest is very individual, and you need to determine the location of the point each time anew. The tuck is transferred to the lower side corner of the bodice - to the mark of the intersection of the side cut and the waist line. The top of this corner must be connected to the bottom corner on the tuck along the chest. You will get a line for "opening" the pattern. In this case, the initial tucks are closed and you can transfer an individual sketch to the fabric.

The tuck on the chest can be moved even lower. To do this, in the drawing of the bodice, the waist tuck (corner) is connected with the lower corner of the tuck on the chest (it is denoted by the top of G8). The top element closes, and the bottom element opens to the end. To transfer the tuck to a cut on the side, you need to divide the base in two or three, depending on the style. The set point will be the beginning of a new element. It must be connected with a line to the top of G8, cut and closed. A modified pattern for tucking a side cut should end 1.5-2 cm from G8.

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The basic chest tuck can also be moved to other locations.

In the cut of the armhole. It is divided in two or three, and the dividing point is connected to G8 - you can draw a curvilinear relief by outlining a smooth curve and closing the chest solution on a tuck or corner, lowering the line from G8 to the waist.
Shoulder cut. It is also divided into 2 or 3 parts, a straight line is drawn from the resulting point to the waist tuck, and the chest is cut and closed.
Neck cut. Its line is divided in two or three, the points are connected to G8. And the connecting axis is cut and transferred - the cutout will form soft assemblies.
The center of the front panel (on the bodice with gathers). From G8, you need to build a perpendicular to the middle of the front, make a cut along it and transfer the tuck, draping the assemblies.
Armhole cut. You will need to draw a perpendicular similar to the line from the previous paragraph, then fix the tuck at the waist and fix part of the top (for example, with pins), and form the remaining solution into small assemblies.
Under the yoke from the armhole. The upper part of the bodice is cut completely (and not part, as in the previous version) and a coquette is formed.

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Modeling dresses based on the "case" style

Often it is necessary to adjust the basis of a sheath dress with a strong difference in girths in the waist and hips. For a pear-shaped figure, you can narrow the bottom on the basic pattern (as when sewing a pencil skirt), accentuate the shoulders and top. Contrasting inserts, a boat-shaped neckline, a large, voluminous collar or a decorated neckline will do. A slightly high waist also visually corrects the figure, but you need to be careful when narrowing the skirt. If the difference between the chest and hips is significant, the bottom should be slightly expanded.

It should be remembered that:

model lines of reliefs run from the armholes to the very bottom along the darts at the waist;
the middle line of the back should fit well - transfer part of the solution to it;
if the difference between the hips and the waist is large, the solutions when fitting exceed 3.5 cm, the tucks are divided into two, otherwise there will be ugly creases in the waist.

The skirt can be changed by making a detachable waist. The “tulip” style is formed by two opposite folds along the front (from the end of the waist tucks, the part is cut vertically down), and a cut is made on the back of the panel. A detachable dress with an extended skirt can be modeled by redrawing the front neck line. Next, you need to transfer the waist tuck to the side, draw the skirt with a “semi-sun” and make a neckline and armhole on the back of the bodice, docking them with the front.

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Modeling on straight dresses

On a straight or loose silhouette, you can simulate a style with an extension of the skirt along the bottom - A-shaped.

The side cuts are made straight, and the bust darts are transferred to the seam on the side. In detail, you need to outline the yoke in front. If the model does not have sleeves, you can make two lower one-sided folds and one counter, from the neck to the bottom. The tucks on the back are removed, and on the shelf it is necessary to complete the depth along the crease (12-15 cm are laid from the middle). Such models are most often sewn with a length above the knee, otherwise they turn out to be excessively narrowed at the bottom. Pockets are often cut into the side seams.

You can model individual dresses not only by transferring tucks. For example, replacing them with a relief, you can make a new thing from a basic pattern with long sleeves with cuffs, a “lowered” shoulder, straps or a yoke over the chest. Cutouts are also often changed - they make a V-shaped from a rounded neck. By changing the base, you can sew many beautiful and non-trivial dresses for all occasions.