Pages of the history of Russian perfumery: a new dawn. Perfume "New Dawn": a legend of Russian perfumery Who is the owner of the factory new dawn

For many decades it was considered that real perfumes were made only in France. Of course, the art of French perfumers is unparalleled, and yet high-quality perfumes are produced in many countries, including Russia. Many women, for example, unfairly ignore the New Dawn perfume, and yet some samples of perfumery from this factory are in no way inferior to French ones.

History of the "New Dawn"

The New Dawn factory was founded in 1864 by the Frenchman Heinrich Brocard. Of course, the name then was different: the company received a new “revolutionary” name in 1922. In the interval between the October Revolution and the renaming into Novaya Zarya, the factory bore the unattractive name Perfume and Soap Factory No. 5.

Like other perfumes of that time, "Persian Lilac" was distinguished by its simple composition, which, however, did not prevent the fragrance from becoming popular not only in the Russian Empire, but also abroad.

After the revolution, the fame of the factory was brought by the perfume "Red Moscow". This fragrance, extremely popular in the middle of the 20th century, is still produced today. There are no indifferent to this perfume: someone considers it hopelessly outdated and tasteless, and someone is sure that this classic fragrance is truly luxurious and will never go out of fashion.

At the beginning of the 21st century, Novaya Zarya began to produce products in collaboration with French perfumers under the brand name Nouvelle Etoile. New luxury fragrances appeared at a higher price than before, increased attention was paid to perfume packaging.

The New Dawn Phenomenon

Soviet women did not have much choice: French and even Polish perfumes were not so easy to get, and Novaya Zarya products were affordable. Relatively inexpensive and very persistent fragrances were popular: probably every inhabitant of the Soviet Union had a bottle of "Red Moscow" or "Scythian Gold".

The "Iron Curtain" opened, and women of fashion got the opportunity to purchase any foreign fragrances. In most cases, however, crude fakes were offered to inexperienced customers, but soon the real works of French perfumers became quite affordable. However, despite all this abundance, many in the twenty-first century continue to use the products of the Novaya Zarya factory with pleasure. What is the secret of the popularity of these perfumes?

Conventionally, Novaya Dawn products can be divided into three groups:

• Classic fragrances ("Red Moscow", "Scythian Gold", "Elena" and other famous perfumes);
• Fashionable fragrances (a series of fragrances that are produced for several years and then discontinued. This group includes the perfumes "Sweetheart", "Naughty", "Kuznetsky Most" and others);
• Limited editions (only one or two batches of such perfumes are produced, for example, "Persian Lilac" - a copy of one of the very first fragrances by Heinrich Brocard).

Why do people like "New Dawn"?

New Dawn products have many advantages. First of all, the price can be attributed to the advantages, of course: the original products of the oldest perfume factory are often cheaper than primitive fakes made in artisanal conditions.

"Novaya Zarya" offers a huge range of perfumes, and the aromas are diverse, which means that every woman can find her "own" perfume. It is important that the smells of New Dawn perfumes are for the most part very persistent: a few drops of perfume are enough to smell sweet for hours.

Disadvantages of New Dawn perfumery

The perfumery of the famous factory also has disadvantages - perhaps they are what prevent the company from gaining international popularity. So, due to the lack of advertising, most of the new products remain unknown to ordinary buyers. The advertising that exists gives a very vague idea about the products, which also does not contribute to the popularity of fragrances. The same can be said about the names of perfumes, which are often not very successful. For example, names like "Sweetheart in the afternoon" or "Scandal" cause bewilderment.

Very often, the Novaya Zarya factory is accused of cloning well-known "promoted" fragrances.

For example, the fragrance "Kuznetsky Most" in a white package is almost identical to "Climat" from Lancome, while "Green Tea" and "Pepper Tea" suspiciously resemble perfumes from Elizabeth Arden. There are many such examples, according to consumers. At the same time, in most cases, the flavors of "New Dawn" are inferior to the originals. Despite the fact that the Novaya Zarya factory gives its customers the opportunity to purchase analogues of famous and fashionable perfumes at a ridiculous price, such copying of fragrances does not suit the oldest perfume factory with a rich history.

Another drawback of the factory's products is, oddly enough, its inaccessibility. In many cities of Russia, it is easier to buy original French perfume than perfume from the Novaya Zarya factory. And the fragrances of limited editions are not repeated, which causes a lot of criticism from those who liked this perfumery.

Packaging often causes dissatisfaction. It is clear that low prices are explained by the minimal cost of producing bottles and boxes for them, and yet not everyone likes defiantly cheap plastic skewed caps and bottles, devoid of any individuality. However, there are exceptions, for example, charming vintage bottles from the "Precious Stones" series.

Maria Bykova

And outside the window, outside the window is the beauty of the new moon.
Weeping willows whisper with the Bug.
Year forty-one, early June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...

Everything is ahead, everything is yet, everything is the day before.
Twenty sunrises left happy.
Year forty-one, the beginning of June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...

It was warm summer days, the air in Moscow was filled with lime blossoms. In the tenth grade, exams began, someone was going to rest in the Crimea, L. Utyosov and L. Orlova watched from the posters ... Nothing, it seems, foreshadowed the huge tragedy that would begin soon, that at many industrial enterprises, including in the perfume industry, there will be silence. It would seem, why spirits in this tragic time, when the number of those killed and destitute is incalculable. However, the spirits of the Soviet era in this period of grief and loss had an unexpected patriotic pathos on a par with the music and poetry of those years.

From Moscow and Leningrad, chemical plants were evacuated to the Urals, including Esters. Already on the ice of Lake Ladoga, under shelling, they took out all the equipment of the Lenaromat plant. The Moscow factories "Novaya Zarya" and "Svoboda" switched to martial law - the men went to the front, the women built anti-tank barriers. Before perfumery?... At the Svoboda factory day and night they produced soap and tooth powder for the army. The population was given everything on cards and in very limited quantities. Then a piece of soap became a valuable thing.

Factory "Novaya Zarya" from the remaining stocks of ethyl alcohol produced cologne for senior officers. For the rest, it was not available either on cards or for money. Ethyl alcohol during the war was a strategically important product. Before the war, it was produced from food raw materials, and already in the first years of the war, the vast territories of our country, where up to 38% of grain and 87% of sugar beets were grown, were occupied by the Nazis. But alcohol was very necessary not only for perfumery, but also for medicine and pharmaceuticals. Therefore, various agricultural products of Siberia, Altai, and the Far East were used for the production of alcohol.

The patriotic upsurge increased every day, and not only on the battlefields or at factory machines in the rear, but also in the cultural space of Soviet wartime life, which gave rise to outstanding works of music and poetry. And the perfumes "Red Moscow", "Wait for me" wafted their fragrance over the devastated country as a symbol of the service of perfumery to human feelings:

In the dirt, in the darkness, in hunger, in sadness,
Where death, like a shadow, dragged on the heels,
We were so happy
They breathed such stormy freedom,
What grandchildren would envy us ...

At one time, the founder of the factory, now known as "New Dawn", complained that domestic perfumes are not taken seriously - everyone is chasing the French ones. Over the past century and a half, the situation has changed little. However, in the light of the current market situation, Novaya Zarya looks more attractive, if only because it does not raise prices as rapidly as its Western counterparts. The former cost, of course, does not remain - after all, the factory closely cooperates with French laboratories and buys a lot from them.

Before "tasting" the spirits of the "New Dawn", it would be interesting to know about her past!

Brokar & Co.

The history of the largest perfumery factory in Russia began in 1864 with ... penny soap.

When the hereditary French perfumer Heinrich Brocard opened his soap factory in Moscow, things did not go right away. At first, soap was brewed in a former stable, and in addition to Brocard himself, there were only two assistants on the staff. The profit was meagre. But one day the perfumer (as it is believed, at the suggestion of his wife) decided to make a souvenir soap: one kind in the form of animals, another with letters, the third in the form of vegetables. The fathers of families were happy to bring such gifts from the fair to their children and wives.

By the early 1970s, Brokar had earned enough to move on to the production of perfumes and colognes. In 1873 he became court purveyor. The whole of Moscow smelled of cologne "Flower", a million bottles were produced a year. And for the "Persian Lilac" Brocard received the Gold Medal in Paris, leaving behind his French colleagues.

After the death of the founder, the empire passed to his wife Charlotte, then to his son. At that time, the talented perfumer August Michel worked at the factory, who came up with the fragrance "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet". These spirits have existed for more than a century, only under a different name. Guess what? Yes, this is exactly Krasnaya Moskva, the most famous fragrance of Novaya Zarya!

New Dawn

After the revolution, the factory "Brocard and Co" was nationalized, dubbed it "State soap factory No. 5". Three years later, the unappetizing name was changed to New Dawn.

The basis of the assortment was soap products, but since 1922 the production of perfumes was again established. Paying tribute to the "red" theme (perfume "October", "Paris Commune"), perfumers listened to the voices of nature ("Lily of the Valley", "Wonderful Lilac", "Cyclamen"), and the whisper of feelings ("Loves, does not love", " Ninon").

In the USSR, their own chypre fragrance appeared - cologne "Chypre". Another legend is "Triple". The production of "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet" was launched in 1925 (of course, now "Red Moscow" was written on the bottle).

"Red Poppy" celebrated the first anniversary of the October Revolution, and three novelties came out at once by Pushkin's days: "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish", "The Tale of Tsar Saltan" and "The Queen of Spades".

The factory responded to any significant event in the history of the country with fresh releases. "Jubilee" perfumes, "Shield and Sword", "Triumph" marked the anniversary of the army, and the new cologne "Vostok" was timed to coincide with the first space flight. Theatrical (Great Artist, Debut, Mask) and Olympic themes (Olympian and Bear) are also traced. Someone sunk into the soul of "Lights of Moscow", someone - "Evening", someone "Waltz of the Flowers" ...

Nouvelle Etoile

Cooperation with French laboratories has become a new stage. The company is proud that the perfumers Michel Almarac and Francis Camai participated in the creation of some of the fragrances, and the bottles were designed by Thierry de Bachmakoff. Russian-French cooperation has been official since 2004, when the Nouvelle Etoile brand appeared.

Among the most popular fragrances today are:

• "Gold of the Scythians" - honey, with herbal, apple, ylang undertones;
• Kuznetsky Most ("Kuznetsky Most") - autumn-spring, creamy-powdery, with velvet padding. Often compared to Lancome Climat;

• The Vert ("Green Tea") - a cool tea-lemon "drink" for hot days, - light, unsweetened. Novaya Zarya is often accused of imitating Western bestsellers, and this time we can't help but recall the Elizabeth Arden fragrance of the same name, which is similar even in packaging. But which one is better, the student or the teacher? - you decide;
• La Belle de Russie ("Russian beauty"): sweet peach-apricot mix for cold days;
• Follow Me Day "Follow Me Day" - a feminine cocktail with roses and irises;
• citrus Eau Jeune seems to many to be very close to what was sold in the 80s;
• flower green unisex White Tea ("White tea") with bergamot and freesia;
• chypre Tete-A-Tete, which came from Soviet times;
• Renommee (rose, apple, greenery).

And most importantly, after a long break, Krasnaya Moskva has been coming out for several years now. Will New Dawn's future be as loud as its past? Time will show.

In 2004, perfume products under the brand name "Nouvelle Etoile" appeared on the world market. Not many people know that behind this name is the history of the oldest Russian factory "Novaya Zarya", which was founded in 1864 by Henri Brocard.

Opened in 1864, the factory began its history with the production of inexpensive, but very scarce at that time soap. The production rapidly developed and expanded, and in the early 70s, Brokar decided to start producing perfumes and colognes. After some time, his products are gaining recognition far beyond the borders of Russia. In 1889, the "Persian Lilac" receives the Grand Prix at an exhibition in Paris, and for the first time the owners are in second place.

By the beginning of the 20th century, the factory began to be called "Brokar's Empire", every year it becomes more and more successful. At almost all competitions and exhibitions, Brokar's products received many awards and medals. So, by 1914, the factory had 8 gold medals (obtained at exhibitions in Paris, Nice, Barcelona, ​​etc.)

In the same year, four Brocard stores were opened in Moscow on Nikolskaya, Tverskaya, Arbat streets and on Kuznetsky Most.

After the October Revolution, the factory was nationalized and renamed the State Soap Factory No. 5. The director A. Zvezdov is sent to restore order at the plant. It was he who hired the German engineer Bengsen and the French perfume chemist August Michel, who helped restore the factory. Three years later, a factory called State Soap and Perfume Factory No. 5 Novaya Zarya started operating in a new location.

Since 1922, in addition to essential products, they began to produce perfumes. Gradually, the perfumes and colognes of the "New Dawn" become very popular: "October", "Paris Commune", "New Dawn", "Ninon", "Cyclamen". The fragrances of the Brocard period were still popular (“Loves, does not love”, “Wonderful Lilac”, “Lily of the Valley”, “Northern”, “Chipr”, “Triple”). According to the factory legend, “Triple” cologne in a bottle in the form of a flask was produced specially without fragrance for Stalin.

In 1925, the Novaya Zarya factory presented its wonderful fragrance Red Moscow. The perfumer August Michel becomes the author of the perfume composition. Few knew that he so called his invention, released back in 1913, dedicated to the House of Romanov - "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet." For many years, this fragrance has become the hallmark of not only the factory, but also the country.

Every event that took place in the country was marked with a new fragrance at the factory. So, in 1927, on the occasion of the 10th anniversary of the October Revolution, “Red Poppy” was released, and the factory dedicated perfumes “The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish”, “The Tale of Tsar Saltan”, “The Queen of Spades” and powder “Eugene Onegin” to Pushkin’s anniversaries .

In 1958, at an exhibition in Brussels, New Dawn presented the Black Casket. "Blue Casket", "Lights of Moscow", "Stone Flower", "Pearl", "Evening", "New Dawn", "Northern" and many others. etc. All Soviet perfumery was highly appreciated by the international jury and received the "Grand Prix". "Red Moscow" was recognized as the best fragrance and received the Gold Medal.

In the name of the next anniversary of the army, “Jubilee”, “Shield and Sword”, “Suliko”, “Triumph”, “Triumph” came out, and in honor of the conquest of space, Vostok cologne was released.

Part of the flavors of "New Dawn" is dedicated to the theater: "Great Artist", "Debut", "Mask", "Recognition".
From 1979 to 1980, Novaya Zarya's perfumers have been working on fragrances in honor of the Olympics in Moscow in August. The famous fragrances "Olympic Souvenir", perfumes "Olympian" and "Mishka" in a bottle in the form of an Olympic symbol were born.

For the 850th anniversary of Moscow, the fragrance "Mer" was released, which soon became the winner of the competition for the best perfumery and cosmetic products in 1997, held by the Russian Perfume and Cosmetic Association.
Today, the factory is a hard, continuous work, because production is growing every year. Every year, up to 30 new types of perfumes and cosmetics are developed and brought to the market.

A new stage in the development of the factory and the release of products under the new name "Nouvelle Etoile" is a unique example of a fruitful and productive Russian-French partnership.