Technical drawing of a raglan sleeve dress. Raglan sleeve pattern: modeling the basic dress pattern. Semi-raglan: building a pattern

A very long time ago, thanks to the skill and cunning of tailors who wanted to flatter their customers, it was invented. It masks figure flaws well and allows the seamstress to creatively approach the stage of pattern construction, since the modeling of grooves, different shapes and contribute to the development of creative thought.

Story

This type of cut is named after Field Marshal Baron Raglan, who lost his arm while fighting in the army of Napoleon I Bonaparte in 1815. A special sleeve model was designed for him to hide this significant drawback. But several other countries are vying for the primacy of creating such

The first mention of this method of cutting is found in English literature in the middle of the nineteenth century, somewhere in 1862. It is generally accepted that the official time of the invention of raglan was the period of the Crimean War (1853-1856). Bad weather on the peninsula prompted the tailors to make this decision. Constant rains greatly demoralized the army, and the lack of seams on clothes gave a chance that a person would not get wet. For the soldiers, this was not a very significant change, although the appearance of the uniform still changed somewhat.

But there are facts that contradict the version of the British that it was they who came up with such a sleeve design. One of the watercolors by the artist Fyodor Solntsev, painted in 1842, depicts a girl in an embroidered shirt cut with a classic raglan sleeve.

In general, the ends of this story can not be found now. But descendants, it seems, do not need to know up to the day when this or that modeling method was invented. The main thing is to be able to use it to your advantage.

Types of raglans

There are several modifications of this method of cutting parts, although there are classifications that are formed according to the main feature.

Armhole shape:

Typical raglan - the armhole passes through the neck not at its tops, but one and a half to two centimeters lower.
Zero raglan - the armhole line runs along the front and back necklines, touching at its corners (tops).
Semi-raglan - the armhole starts from the middle of the shoulder, without touching the neck.
Raglan shoulder strap - the armhole runs parallel to the shoulder, smoothly turning into the line of the armhole of the set-in sleeve.
Fantasy raglan - a combination of a set-in sleeve and yoke or neck modeling methods.

Sleeve shape:

Sheer - for broad shoulders.
Soft - for narrow.

Number of seams (depending on the construction of the pattern):

One-sutural.
Two-seam.
Three-seam.

Selection for the silhouette

The raglan dress has an amazing property to mask the flaws of the female figure. This is especially true for wide or too narrow shoulders. Depending on how steep or, conversely, how flat the raglan line is, you can visually narrow or expand the upper body. At the same time, the waist will not be too wide, since it is not necessary to cut a loose silhouette to add volume to the shoulders.

What is raglan?

This is a type of sleeve that is modeled and cut out together with the shoulder part of the back and the shelf of the future product. If in the classic version we sew the sleeve into the armhole and hope that it will lie correctly and will not form folds, then here we have no opportunity to screw up, since nothing needs to be ironed, gathered and tacked.

Sleeve construction

With a raglan sleeve, it begins with the construction of a pattern. If you already have ready-made forms for different sizes, then this will be a good help for you to work with.

On the paper for applying contours (for many it is ordinary newsprint), we impose the already existing patterns of the shelves and sleeves, while we combine the shoulder cut with the upper point of the sleeves so that a small angle appears between them. You can change this size yourself. It depends on him how convex the raglan sleeve will be on the finished product. The pattern is pinned with pins. On the layout of the shelf, mark the middle of the neck and divide it in half. From the obtained point (1/4 of the neck), we smoothly draw two lines: one to the armhole, the other to the sleeve. In the same way, repeat for the details of the back.

The construction of the pattern (raglan) is over. It remains only to transfer everything to tracing paper, cut it out and place it on the fabric.

The second version of the pattern

If the first method does not suit you for some reason or seems too cumbersome, then you can use the other. It is also not too simple, but sometimes it is more suitable for modeling a silhouette.

The construction of raglan in this case begins with the application of shelves on ordinary lines. It is cut out, and then the chest tuck is "closed" on it. That is, a triangle is cut out on the layout showing the location of the tuck, and the edges of the neck and armholes are cleaved together. To prevent the template from deforming, an incision is made along the tuck at the waist and a small incision is made from the top of the chest dart to the armhole. Then, when cleaved, they themselves will open to the required width. This technique is called tuck transfer. Then a sleeve is applied to the already formed shelf, and the manipulations from the first option are repeated. Completed the construction of the pattern. Raglan sleeves are sure to work.

Breadboard method

It happens that you need to quickly cut out the details, but there is simply no time to fiddle with pieces of paper and patterns. Then this method comes to the rescue. The raglan pattern is drawn directly on the customer or on the mannequin.

To begin with, do not forget that for a harmonious construction, the line of the middle of the shoulder moves a little forward by a centimeter, and the neck of the back rises by five millimeters. After you have closed all the darts on the shelf and back on your mannequin, combine the line of the cut-off sleeve with the line of the armhole and draw the raglan. You should end up with two sleeve pieces separated along the midline with an off-center.

As a matter of fact, we already have a raglan sleeve. The pattern in this case is of an auxiliary nature, if the master doubts the correctness of the transferred tucks.

Children's raglan

On little dandies and fashionistas, this sleeve shape also looks very advantageous. And it is more convenient to wear dresses when there are no seams that interfere with free movements. The raglan pattern for children is much simpler than for adults. There are no darts that need to be modeled, since the figure of the child does not have pronounced bends and bulges.

The pattern of a dress with a raglan sleeve for a girl is to evenly divide the neckline into four parts on the shelf pattern. Then mark a point on the armhole, which will be just above the chest line, and connect the points with a smooth line, passing into the armhole from below. On the back, you can simply make a straight line from the quarter of the neck to the chest line (middle of the armhole).

Now you can form the sleeve. To do this, we draw a trapezoid, in which the sides are the length of the raglan on the back and shelf, the top is the neckline with the back side raised by 05.-1 cm compared to the front, and the bottom side is a fragment of a circle. After placing the patterns on the fabric, you can cut and sew the finished product.

The pattern of a dress with a raglan sleeve for a child and an adult is not particularly difficult even for a novice master.

Texture

A raglan dress (photo attached) can be sewn from both dense and soft, flowing fabrics that emphasize the silhouette. Designers now like to combine leather sleeves with natural fabrics, jeans with guipure or organza, solid colors and bright, catchy patterns. In general, the scope for creativity is limitless. The simplicity of the cut and the ability to adapt it to any type of figure open up a lot of possibilities.

In addition, with a raglan sleeve, you can sew not only dresses, but also shirts, blouses, jackets. This expands the range of possibilities even more. So do not limit yourself, but create and surprise others. We hope that this article will be of great help to you in this matter.

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Today we will be modeling the basic construction of a dress and a one-piece sleeve to get a raglan dress pattern.

But first, let's figure out what raglan is.
Raglan- this is a type of sleeve cut, in which the sleeve is cut out together with the shoulder part of the shelf and back. The main feature of the raglan cut product is the armhole, which starts from the neck line, while the armhole itself is somewhat deepened in comparison with the armhole of the set-in sleeve. The shoulder part of the front and back is filled with a sleeve, and in place of the shoulder seam there is a connecting seam of the sleeve.
Depending on the configuration of the armhole, there are such types of raglan:
1 - classic raglan
2 - zero raglan
3 - semi-raglan
4 - raglan shoulder strap
5 - one-piece raglan with a yoke.

You can build a raglan sleeve pattern using design, or using constructive modeling of the basic pattern of a dress and a single-seam sleeve. In this article, we will analyze the second method - modeling.

We will prepare some blank sheets of paper, as well as the basic designs of the dress and one-sleeve sleeve (you can use the patterns built by any method).

Modeling the back and shelves
Since we need to change the line of the armhole and the shoulder part of the product, we will transfer only the bodice of the dress to a blank sheet of paper, circling the patterns of the back and shelves along the contour. Be sure to mark the control points of the armhole. Let's designate on the back the end shoulder point A and the control point of the armhole B, on the shelf the end shoulder point C and the control point of the armhole D.
We divide the armhole line of the back in section AB in half and connect the resulting point with the top of the shoulder tuck. On the armhole of the shelf upwards from the control point D, set aside 1-2 cm, connect the resulting point with the top of the chest tuck. We will also connect the tops of the chest and tail darts with a straight line.

Cut the back piece along the marked line and transfer the shoulder tuck to the armhole line. Let's measure the size of the tuck solution.

Now let's cut the shelf along the marked lines and transfer part of the chest tuck into the armhole line by the same amount of solution as on the back. The rest of the chest tuck will be transferred to the tail tuck.

Thus, we lengthened the armhole lines of the back and shelves by the same amount.

Now we will deepen the line of the armhole of the back and the front along the side sections by 2-4 cm, denote the points obtained by K and L. Draw new lines of the armhole, connecting points A, B and K with smooth lines, and on the front - C, D and L.

On the back of the bodice, from point K, set aside half of the armhole AK minus the solution of the shoulder tuck, denote the resulting point as P. Similarly, on the shelf, divide the line of the armhole SL in half, subtract the solution of the shoulder tuck, and put the result up from point L and designate point P.

Set aside 2-4 cm along the lines of the neck of the shelf and back from the shoulder cut and connect the obtained points with auxiliary lines with points P and R.

Connect the points P1 and P1 with the points P and P with smooth lines with a deflection of 1 cm in the middle of the auxiliary segments.
The constructed lines are the new lines of the armhole and at the same time the lines of the hem of the sleeve.

Cut the back and shelf along these lines.

Here are the shoulder parts we got. The shoulder part of the back is the shoulder section of the back of the sleeve, and the shoulder part of the shelf is the shoulder section of the front of the sleeve.

And the bodice pattern will now look like this. The chest tuck can be transferred back or transferred to the side seam, or left as it is, depending on the model of the product.

Sleeve modeling
On a blank sheet of paper, draw a pattern of a single-seam sleeve along the contour, transfer the line of the middle of the sleeve, the elbow line and the control points of the sleeve rim. Extend the elbow line by 0.6 cm from the front cut.

Let's draw a new front cut of the sleeve through a point of 0.6 cm.

Since we have deepened the armhole by 2-4 cm, we need to increase the height of the sleeve by the same amount. To do this, we will put aside 2-4 cm down along the cuts of the sleeve from the eyeline, the resulting points will be denoted by M and H, which we will connect with smooth lines to the checkpoints of the eyelet.

Let's reduce the opening of the elbow tuck by 0.6 cm and raise the lower section of the sleeve by the same amount.

Up from the point M, we set aside along the eye line a value equal to the length of the arc AP of the shoulder section, and set the point P. Up from point H, we set aside the value of the arc CP of the shoulder section and mark the point P.

We extend the line of the middle of the sleeve upwards by 0.6 cm and draw an auxiliary horizontal line through the obtained point.

Now let's attach the upper sections of the sleeve parts so that the points P and P of the shoulder parts are aligned with the points P and P on the okay of the sleeve, and the points A and C are on the auxiliary line.

We divide the segment AC in half, denote the resulting point as T (this point may not coincide with the line of the middle of the sleeve). Along the line of the bottom of the sleeve, set aside 1.6 from the middle line towards the front cut of the sleeve, connect the resulting point with a straight line with point T. The content of the article

As we already know, many items of women's wardrobe came to us from military uniforms. This applies to belts with large buckles, breeches and caps. The raglan sleeve also applies to men's military clothing. To be more precise, such clothes were made for a general who lost his arm in battle. This general's name is Ragglan. It was he who began to wear a military uniform with sleeves so that others would not see his lack.

Peculiarities

A distinctive feature of the raglan sleeve is that it is cut together with a shelf or back, which means that the shoulder part of this product is a single whole. There is no shoulder seam at all, instead there is a seam on the upper part of the sleeve.

Clothing with raglan sleeves looks extraordinary and very interesting. Even though more fabric is used in the manufacture of such a sleeve, it looks very casual and light.

Who will suit?

Clothing with raglan sleeves suits many girls. Equally beautiful, it will decorate narrow and wide shoulders. They are especially suitable for full girls, because these wide sleeves will hide the fullness of the shoulders and arms. And the oblique seam that goes from the armhole to the neckline and connects the sleeves to the product itself will visually reduce the volume of your chest.

For girls with an inverted triangle figure, dresses with a medium or deep V-neckline, as well as short sleeves or ¾ sleeves, are suitable. Such dresses will make your shoulders visually narrower. And if you have a triangle body type, then you, on the contrary, need to wear raglan dresses, which have a shallow neckline. Such a slope of the sleeves is also able to visually expand your shoulders. Such a dress will not suit thin girls with a rectangle body type.

Styles and models

Often, raglan dresses are made in the form of a sheath dress or an A-line dress. Among themselves, such models may differ in the absence or presence of cuffs or elastic bands on the wrist, the width and length of the sleeve and the neckline. Such sleeves can be on blouses, T-shirts or dresses from a variety of fabrics. And the dresses themselves can be both straight and fitted.

The most successful neckline is an angelica, boat, V-shaped or round neckline. Dresses with rounded wide sleeves look beautiful and feminine, which can visually increase the top of your silhouette, which, of course, will suit girls with small breasts.

You can often find models that are decorated with ribbons or laces around the neck. They are needed in order to adjust the depth of the neckline. In order to reduce the depth of the neckline, the ropes should be pulled together, and in order to increase, they should be dissolved. A raglan dress with an angelica neckline will make your look seductive and very romantic.

As we have already said, a variety of fabrics are used to make raglan dresses. Most often, these fabrics are soft and thin, perfectly fitting the figure and which will not hamper your movements. Such fabrics can be both plain and decorated with multi-colored prints. These dresses can be both elegant and casual. In any case, in such a dress, a woman will look airy and gentle, and it will simply be impossible not to notice her.

Knitted raglan dress

A knitted raglan dress is comfortable, warm and very cozy. This dress is especially suitable for the cold season.

The most suitable neckline for him will be a collar neckline, a boat neckline and a tortoiseshell neckline. You can buy such a dress or knit it yourself. You can find information on the Internet on how to do this. Therefore, if you have the desire and time, you can do it yourself.

With what to combine?

When choosing a raglan dress, you should definitely know that it will make your upper part more voluminous, so you should make the lower part of your figure narrower. Such a dress can be of very different lengths, however, a skinny raglan dress of short and medium length will look more impressive.

With such a dress, shoes in a classic style will be best combined. It is desirable that its color does not match the color of the dress. You can choose beautiful sandals or stilettos.

As for accessories, a fashionable and beautiful belt will be the best choice, and jewelry should be used sparingly.

Perfectly with a raglan dress will look with massive long earrings. They will look great with a chain or necklace, as well as large watches and bracelets.

Raglan sleeves are widely used in everyday wear. It creates a soft rounded shoulder line and visually reduces their width.

The raglan sleeve can be made by building or by modeling. The raglan sleeve, by construction, is laborious and requires calculations, but gives a good balance of the product on the figure.

In today's article, we will consider a method for designing a raglan pattern by modeling. This method is simpler and faster, but its implementation requires well-established backbones, shelves and sleeves.

2. On the back, move the tuck to the bulge of the shoulder blades to the armhole (in our example, the tuck gap is 1.5 cm).

3. On the front, turn the chest tuck into a waist tuck. Lengthen the armhole with a tail tuck by an amount equal to the lengthening of the armhole along the back (1.5 cm).

4. Deepen the armhole of the back and front by 3.8 cm (or other value according to the model).

Draw a new armhole line.

Shoulder section of the back of the raglan sleeve

4. From point A along the armhole, set aside half of the segment AB minus the tuck solution (1.5 cm). Point X received.

5. From the top of the neck, measure 3.2 cm and draw an auxiliary straight line to X.

Divide the resulting segment in half and restore a perpendicular 1 cm long.

6. Draw a line for the armhole / hem of the raglan sleeve as shown in fig. 2.

Shoulder section of the front of the raglan sleeve

7. From C along the armhole, set aside half of the segment CD minus the solution of the tuck (1.5 cm). Point X received.

9. Cut off the shoulder sections of the raglan sleeve pieces and save.

Changing the sleeve hem

2. Extend the line of the middle of the sleeve upwards from the eye by 0.6 cm. Draw a horizontal line through this point.

3. Set aside from K on the line of the elbow 0.6 cm outward and draw a new line for the front cut of the sleeve.

4. Set aside along the longitudinal sections of the sleeve 3.8 cm each - points E and F and draw the lower sections of the new okat line.

5. At the end, set aside:

distance EX equal to the segment AX on the armhole of the back;
distance FX equal to the segment CX on the front armhole.

6. Reduce the gap of the elbow tuck by 0.6 cm. Set aside 0.6 cm up from G (compensation for the reduction of the gap of the tuck) and draw a new line down to point H. The rest of the tuck gap is formed in the form of a landing, mark the landing position with control marks, as shown in fig. 4.

Raglan pattern design

1. Attach the upper sections of the sleeve parts to the hem of the sleeve so that the X points are aligned, and the points B and D on the shoulder sections are located on the horizontal guide. Fix.

2. Mark a Z point on the horizontal guide midway between B and D (may not be in the middle).

3. Mark point Y at a distance of 1.6 cm from the middle of the sleeve along the bottom and draw a straight line from Z to Y (Fig. 5).

4. Draw curved cut lines from E and F to point Z (fig. 6).

5. Cut the raglan sleeve along the lines ZY, EZ and FZ.

6. Place the cut patterns on a piece of paper and separate their parts by 5 cm to lengthen the parts of the sleeve along the lower cuts. Fix and circle (Fig. 7).

7. Make new cuts from the elbow to E and F.

8. From B and D, set aside:

outwards by 0.6 cm;
along the lines of the upper cuts 7.6 cm down.

Draw the lines of the upper cuts through the obtained points, as shown in fig. 8. Put control signs (notches).

9. Indicate the direction of the warp threads on the patterns of the bodice and parts of the raglan sleeve (Fig. 9).

Raglan pattern is ready.

There is a funny paradox in knitting: despite the fact that there is a raglan sleeve pattern for knitwear, the question of how to cut raglan for a knitted pullover or jacket is irrelevant, because, of course, sleeves for knitted sweaters are not cut out of fabric, but knitted or crocheted. By the way, you can download both patterns and patterns on many sites easily and completely free of charge, no question. The question is what to do with these patterns after that, if you are a beginner knitter and have not yet held knitting needles in your hands. And if you are a seamstress and want to learn how to build raglan patterns on your own, and not scour the Internet looking for the right ones? How to understand - who suits such a sleeve? If it doesn’t suit you, can raglan be converted into a regular one? And how to perform gradation of raglan sleeves in size? Let's figure it out.

Raglan is a special kind of sleeve. It is one with the shoulder. The lack of an armhole makes the garment as comfortable as possible. That is why such tailoring is most often used in the manufacture of sportswear. In addition, blouses and dresses, sweaters and sweaters with such a sleeve look more elegant and beautiful.

Raglan is a special kind of sleeve

Depending on where exactly the armhole line is drawn, the types of raglans can be as follows:

typical - the line is drawn literally one and a half centimeters below the top point of the neck and smoothly descends at the same time;
zero - the line is drawn from the top point of the front neckline to the top mark of the back neckline, smoothly descends from the top point down;
semi-raglan - the passage of the line is marked from the center of the shoulder. In the shoulder area there is a small gap between the armhole and the neckline;
raglan shoulder strap - the line runs parallel to the shoulder, there is a smooth transition to the armhole of the set-in sleeve;
fantasy - the bottom line is no different from the set-in sleeve, while the top one can be arbitrary.

Varieties of raglans, depending on the shape of the sleeve, can be as follows:

sheer;
soft.

The sleeves are also divided by the number of seams. Raglan can be:

one-sutural;
two-seam;
three-seam.

Raglan sleeve pattern with construction from the base base (video)

Building a raglan pattern for beginners

Even a beginner can build a pattern. Although this process cannot be called easy, it is still possible to follow the instructions. The main thing is to strictly follow the sequence of actions and be as careful as possible.

Even a beginner can build a pattern

How to cut out:

From the pattern of the front and back, copy the shoulders along the line, and then close the chest recess in front. Thus, get a whole shoulder piece.
Transfer the main points to the patterns of the one-sutural sleeve.
Set aside a centimeter from point C along the SF line and mark point L.
Attach to the main part of the sleeve the part cut off from the back and combine the L1M points with the CH points.
Set aside one centimeter from point G to the right side and mark G2. Draw a line from G2 to L1.
Set aside one and a half centimeters to the left side of the M mark and put a point M2
Connect the marks G1, M2 and F with a smooth line, as a result of which you will get a rollback line.
Now take the part cut off from the front, step back one centimeter along the line SF1 and connect the points L2 and M1 with the marks C2 and M1.
To the right side of the G mark along the GG4 line, set aside just a centimeter and put a point G3, connect it to L2.
Set aside a centimeter to the right of M1 and mark M2. Carry out segments G4, M3 and F1, as a result of this, get another rollback line.

Semi-raglan: building a pattern

To tailor a semi-raglan, you will need a minimum of time and knowledge. Step-by-step instructions will help to cope with this task even for a beginner.

How to cut correctly:

On the pattern of the base of the front, close the tuck on the chest, distribute the depth.
Cut a single-seam sleeve into two equal parts and lower the perpendicular from the highest rollback point to the bottom of the sleeve.
Combine the front of the sleeve with half of the finished front pattern.
Draw an arc AB and slightly round the line of the shoulder, raising it by half a centimeter.
Cut the back horizontally and push it one and a half centimeters, straighten the middle line.

From the shoulder seam, cut out the details of the semi-raglan.

Raglan on the basis of a set-in sleeve

You can cut and sew a raglan based on a set-in sleeve simply and quickly.

This method of cutting is used most often, as it comes down to just a few actions:

Transfer to paper the basics of the back and front.
Transfer the top tuck to the neck.
All tucks close and fasten.
Now place the pattern on the figure and outline the line of the future coquette on it, draw the initial marks of the raglan.
Next lay out the back and front, leveling the lower parts of the armhole.
At one level, make notches 1.
On both parts, draw vertical segments to the lines of the armhole and mark the points of contact with notch 2.
Step back from the notches three centimeters and mark point 3 along the coquette line.
Transfer the coquettes to another sheet, be sure to mark all the notches and close the back tuck on the shoulder.
Transferring the drawings of the main parts to the fabric, additionally draw a yoke.
Cut off the yoke after trying on.
Replace the sleeve fit along the rollback line with a tuck.
Transfer the base of the raglan onto paper, leaving the space necessary to build the coquette.
In the upper part, between marks B, outline the tuck solution.
Place notch A ten centimeters below the middle of the rollback and draw a concave line.
Extend tuck lines.
Fold the paper along the share and compare both tucks.
Lay the yoke of the back part with the armhole at mark C and rotate until its mark 2 touches the rollback.
Circle the yoke in this position.
Perform the same manipulation with the yoke of the front.
Smooth lines connect notches 3 with a rollback.
Measure the distance from 3 to 1 notch and measure it from mark 3 along the curved line that has just been drawn and put notch 4.
On the bodice, measure the length of the armhole.
Also measure the rollback line on the sleeve, starting from the cuts along the burs and reaching point 4. Compare the data.

You can cut and sew a raglan based on a set-in sleeve simply and quickly

Distribute all excess between the sections drawn with a dotted line.

Raglan knitting

Raglan knitted with knitting needles looks no less impressive than knitwear. The process of knitting is very different from sewing. With the help of knitting needles, the sleeve is made much easier, since there is no need for patterns, it is enough just to make all the calculations.

Cast on the required number of stitches and knit the first nine lines as follows: chain stitch, knit, yarn over, purl, six right sleeve stitches, yarn over, purl, yarn over, sixteen back stitches, yarn over, purl, yarn over, six sleeve stitches, yarn over, purl, yarn over, front stitch and chain stitch.
In the purl rows, perform air stitches with hem stitches, all the rest with purl stitches.
On the eleventh line, get a pair of air stitches from both sides and close the work on this.
Continue working in a circle, knitting the main stitches and purl the raglan lines. Knit yarn overs.
When all the stitches are typed, they need to be removed on a pin and left to work.
Combine the main parts and continue knitting.

Knitted raglan looks no less impressive than knitwear

At the end, work the pattern with an elastic band and close all the loops.

What styles of clothing use raglan

Despite the practicality and convenience, raglan is not allowed to be used in all styles of clothing.

Most often, its use is resorted to in the following of them:

unisex. In most cases, raglan is cut from the neck;
ethnic. Due to the peculiarities of the cut, it is possible to achieve a special softness of all lines;
minimalism;
eclecticism. Style already initially involves borrowing details from various directions. Raglan in this case is also appropriate;
futurism. It is characterized by a complex cut and the use of bright, shiny materials;
romantic. The use of raglan in this case is also possible, but a lot of effort will be required to create a harmonious image.

Modeling a raglan sleeve based on a sew-in (video)

Raglan is an unusual sleeve model. With its help, it is possible to hide overly wide shoulders and make clothes as comfortable as possible. Even the simplest things made in this style acquire a very unusual and original look.