Technological map of tailoring a straight skirt. The sequence of processing skirts after fitting. Overcast the bottom edges of the skirt
Project folder
Theme:Skirt
Gymnasium No. 40
Yekaterinburg, 2009
Introduction
1. General characteristics of the product
3. Equipment selection
4. History of the skirt
5 Styles and trends in fashion
6. Materials and their properties in accordance with and purpose of the shape of the skirt
7. Color and personality
8. Technological sequence of skirt manufacturing
9 Fabric Safety
10. Results of the work
Bibliography
Applications
Introduction
Working with fabric, making clothes, doing work with your own hands is one of the means of self-expression, developing creative thinking, which makes it possible to realize your ideas in the manufacture of a particular garment.
The purpose of this work is to develop and implement a project for independent tailoring of a skirt under the guidance of a teacher. As well as the formation of such qualities as the ability to independently solve creative and technological problems, make informed decisions, apply and use the acquired skills, knowledge, skills and information in practice in later life.
The task is to summarize the theoretical knowledge, skills and abilities gained in the lessons "Technology" to create a garment (skirt).
In the process of manufacturing garments on an industrial scale, many people of various professions take part: a fashion designer, designer, technologist, sewing equipment operator, clothing demonstrator. These professionals put a piece of themselves, their individuality for the people who will wear the things they have created. In the lessons there is an opportunity to combine the work of various professions and bring your ideas to life.
For the manufacture of any garment, certain steps are applied. Firstly, this is drawing up a sketch, secondly, cutting out the product, and thirdly, completing the tailoring of the product, taking into account the available material and the features of the figure according to an individual plan. At the same time, strict adherence to this scheme: sketch - drawing - design - technology - finished product, contributes to obtaining practical skills for self-sewing a product - from an idea to a finished product.
1. General characteristics of the product
Skirt (fr. jupe) - a piece of clothing covering the lower part of the body. Evolved from a loincloth.
There are many different types of skirts related to different styles. These are skirts such as: straight skirt, wedge skirt (Appendix 1); pleated skirt, yoke skirt (Appendix 2); gode skirt; half-sun skirt (appendix 3), etc.
My model is a straight skirt that fits around the hips, with darts at the waistline, without a belt. The skirt consists of several identical wedges, expanding downwards. With an odd number of wedges, the seam with the fastener is located at the back, in the middle of the back, and a slot is processed at the bottom. The bottom of the product is stitched on a sewing machine. A sketch of the model is presented in Appendix 1.
2. Design and modeling
Design is the construction of a product pattern drawing. My skirt model consists of three wedges. The width of the skirt is calculated according to the circumference of the hips. To build a drawing of the base of such a skirt, measurements are needed:
St (half circumference of the waist);
Sat (half circumference of the hips);
Di (product length).
A three-piece skirt can be of different lengths (from mini to maxi, but I chose an average length - just above the knees) and is made of denser fabrics (for example: gabardine). When calculating the amount of fabric, it is necessary to add 10 cm to the measurement of the length of the skirt (Di) for processing the upper and lower sections, aligning the cross section. For example: with a fabric width of 140 cm, the length of the tailoring of the skirt will be equal to Di + 10 cm; With fabric width< 140 см. длина пошива юбки будет равна (Ди + 10 см.) х 2
Modeling is the process of modifying a pattern drawing in accordance with the selected model. The term "modeling" comes from the word "model", that is, a pattern created by artists, fashion designers and designers. Skirt base drawing (Appendix 4).
3. Equipment selection
In the process of cutting, I needed: scissors; chalk or remnant with a thin edge; tape measure; tailor's pins; cutter line. In the process of sweeping, I needed: chalk; cutter; tracing paper; tailor's pins; sweeping needle; scissors; threads. In the process of grinding, I needed: a sewing machine; scissors; ripper; crayon; scissors.
4. History of the skirt
Skirts have been known since the dawn of mankind and were worn by both women and men.
In the southern regions, men wore loincloths, skirts and aprons made of palm leaves. The basic clothing of the ancient Egyptians was the skhenti apron, which consisted of a strip of fabric wrapped around the hips and fastened at the waist with a cord. Shenti of commoners and pharaohs differed only in the quality of the fabric, their style remained unchanged. The Assyrians wore a shirt-skirt made of wool, cotton, or linen, called a kandi. By the length of this type of clothing, one could determine the degree of nobility of its owner. In the form of purely women's clothing, the so-called Gothic skirt appeared only in the 15th century. It was from this time that the bodice with side lacing began to be worn separately from the actual skirt in the modern sense. In the 16th century, wealthy women dressed in massive, heavy clothes, which were sewn from cloth, expensive brocade and velvet fabrics. In the last third of this century, figs appear, encircling the waist with a flat wheel. This was achieved by putting on a quilted roller under a skirt and a cutter assembled from the fabric of the dress, located at the waist. In the 17th century, women wear vertugadens - a special kind of "barrel" hoops around the waist. In the 18th century, mostly smooth skirts appeared with a lot of decorations: frills, flower garlands, lace, draperies. Until the 40s of the 19th century, the skirt was cut from 3 or 5 panels. Stretches at the front and slightly gathers at the sides. The side seams are bevelled and go to the back. In the middle of the 19th century, skirts with crinolines appeared, decorated with flounces and cloves, embroidered with braid, galloon and lace. In its second half, the crinoline is replaced by a petticoat with frills and a bustle pillow. At the end of the last century, women were pulled into a corset to the hips, and the camp smoothly turns into a draped tren at the back, so part of the skirt lies on the floor. At the beginning of the 20th century, with the advent of the "modern" silhouette, the skirt was cut flared at the back with an elongated front. In the 1920s, skirts went up to the knee again. Nowadays, a variety of forms of skirts are characteristic: straight and extended downwards, wide and narrow, pleated, wedges, short and long trouser skirts and others.
5. Styles and trends in fashion
In the 1970s, fundamental changes took place in the nature of mass fashion. Determining the fashionability of clothes, they began to talk not only about styles, length, but also style. The features of each style are created by cut, shape, fabric finishing, a set of clothing items, as well as various accessories, jewelry and cosmetics. Currently the main styles are:
Classical;
Youth;
Sports;
denim;
Folklore;
My style is classic. It suits my inner state the most. There are things in fashion that, despite all the changes in tastes, passions, attachments, remain unchanged to a certain extent. The general opinion recognizes them as excellent, exemplary, exemplary. The proportions of classical style clothing correspond to the natural proportions of the human figure, the lines of forms and details are simple and concise.
6. Materials and their properties in accordance with the style of the skirt
I thought over the color scheme of the skirt, choosing black - the color of refined taste, which is at the top of fashion at all times, concealing figure flaws. The beginning of the image is the color, and the beginning of the style is the fabric. It is necessary to take into account the properties of each type of fabric:
Cotton fabrics have a large shrinkage during soaking, which is their main drawback. Cotton fabrics are beautiful, iron well, crumble little and are relatively durable;
Linen fabrics shrink when soaked, wash well, stretch a little, crumble, and are hard to iron, which is the main drawback. Relatively durable. They look very nice and neat;
Woolen fabrics wrinkle a little, when soaked they have a large shrinkage, they are hard to iron, they hold their shape well after ironing;
Viscose fabrics are beautiful, solid, shrink when soaked, the structure of these fabrics is very mobile, which makes it difficult to work with them;
Synthetic fabrics have almost no shrinkage, are durable, elastic.
However, these fabrics react differently to high temperatures and require care when ironing. My choice is gabardine fabric. Fabric properties: gabardine is a fabric made from the highest grades of carded yarn. The weave is diagonal.
7. Color and personality
Color plays a huge role in human life. It has a deep emotional impact on a person and is a means of expression in the composition of clothing. Colors are divided into two groups: chromatic and achromatic. Chromatic colors are conditionally divided into warm and cold. Warm tones include colors associated with ideas about fire, the sun - red, orange, yellow. Cold tones include colors associated with a feeling of coolness, snow and ice - blue, blue, purple. I like the black color, which I chose. Black color is universal, it is combined with almost all colors and a skirt of this color can be combined with any color scheme in clothes. Black is the color of intuition. Nothing should interfere - complete concentration, purity and spirituality, inspiration, wisdom. For the Japanese, black is the color of joy. Pay attention to how expressive the face of a man in a black robe becomes. Like a picture in a frame, especially the eyes are the mirror of the soul. The contrasts with this color are very spectacular. Both in white and in black, you can rejoice and grieve, and it will be natural. Contrasts in clothes, contrasts in life - they allow you to develop intuition and spiritual qualities of a person.
8. Technological sequence of skirt manufacturing
1. Model development. Sketch.
2. Taking measurements.
3. Construction of a drawing of the base of the skirt.
4. Modeling the base drawing.
5. Preparing the pattern for cutting.
6. Preparing the fabric for cutting:
Ironing fabric;
Lay out the patterns on the fabric;
Perform trimming of patterns;
Set aside seam allowances;
Make a cut.
7. Preparing the product for fitting:
Laying control stitches;
Sweeping tucks;
Basting the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Sweeping side seams;
Baste the bottom of the product.
8. Carrying out the first fitting:
Troubleshooting;
Mark the length of the product.
9. Processing the product after trying it on a sewing machine:
Grinding tucks;
Stitching side seams;
Processing sections with a zigzag stitch;
Stitching a zipper into the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Stitching the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Processing slots in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt.
10. Processing the bottom cut of the skirt:
Cut the cut with a zigzag stitch;
Sweep and process the bottom of the product.
13. Evaluation of the finished product.
14. Self-control.
9. Safety precautions when working with fabric
To avoid any accidents during work, you must follow the safety rules when working with fabric.
1. Safety requirements before starting work:
Put on overalls, put your hair under a scarf;
Check for rusty needles and pins;
Prepare the workplace for work, remove all unnecessary;
Make sure that the protective grounding of the body of the electric sewing machine is available and in good condition, that there is a dielectric mat on the floor near the machine.
2. Safety requirements during operation:
Keep needles and pins in a certain place, do not leave them at the workplace;
Do not use rusty needles and pins when working, do not take needles and pins in your mouth;
When working with needles, use a thimble;
Attach patterns and fabrics with the sharp ends of the pins away from you;
Store scissors in a certain place, put them with closed ends away from you, pass them to each other with rings forward;
Do not lean close to the moving parts of the sewing machine;
Do not keep your fingers near the foot of the sewing machine to avoid piercing them with a needle;
Before sewing the product on the sewing machine, make sure that there are no pins or needles on the seam line;
Do not bite off the thread with your teeth, but cut it off with scissors;
Only one person can operate the machine.
Safety precautions when working with an electric iron:
1. Check the serviceability of the plug and the insulation of the electric cord of the iron;
2. Make sure there is a heat-resistant iron stand and a dielectric mat on the floor near the ironing area;
3. Before turning on the electric iron, stand on a dielectric mat;
4. Turn on and off the electric iron in the network only with dry hands;
5. For short breaks in operation, put the electric iron on a heat-insulating stand;
6. During operation, make sure that the hot soleplate of the iron does not touch the electric cord;
7. To avoid burning your hands, do not touch the hot metal parts of the iron and do not moisten the material with plenty of water;
8. To avoid fire, do not leave the electric iron plugged in unattended;
9. Monitor the normal operation of the iron, do not let it overheat;
10. After working with the iron, unplug the power cord.
10. Results of the work
Need. I sewed this skirt in order to wear it at any time of the year, to dress for the holidays. Since my skirt belongs to the classic style, it is convenient for outdoor activities and a variety of work. This skirt is multifunctional.
Self-esteem and economic calculation. I think I did my job quite neatly, and most importantly, I like it. Although it took more time than expected, I am not upset, because I remember very well all the stages of the work that I performed. And to evaluate, as it seems, the surrounding people should, because from the outside, all the shortcomings are more visible. I like the result. Due to the fact that I sewed the skirt myself, no one else will have one.
Difficulties. Sewing this skirt for me was more of a pleasure than a task, although I had some difficulties in sewing the product. The hardest part was chalking and sewing in the zipper as this job is completely new to me.
I saw a similar skirt in stores for 460 rubles, my version is more profitable, since I did everything with my own hands. Thus, I saved 305 rubles, and for the remaining amount I have the opportunity to sew 2 more skirts.
In general, I got what I wanted. Now, thanks to my knowledge, I can remake my wardrobe into the best one, to my taste. If you walk in what you like, in what is comfortable, then you will feel comfortable and confident, and this is important for every person!
Literature
Glozman E.S., Stavrova O.B. and others, ed. Khotuntseva Yu.L. Technology. Technical labor. – Mnemosine, 2004
Sasova I.A., Marchenko A.V. Technology: Grades 5-8: Program. – M.: Ventana-Graf, 2006. – 96 p.
Simonenko V.D. Technology for 6, 7 classes. - Publishing Center, 2007
Technology: A textbook for students of the 6th grade of a general education school / ed. V. D. Simonenko. – M.: Ventana-Graf, 2003
Chernyakova V.N. Fabric processing technology: A textbook for grades 6-9 general education. institutions. - M.: Enlightenment, 2004
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Municipal budgetary educational institution
"Secondary school No. 1"
Khanymey settlement, Purovsky district
Lesson
Teacher
Khanymey
Lesson topic: Technological sequence of manufacturing a straight skirt.
Processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with braid - a zipper.
Lesson Objectives: To introduce students to the sequence of making a straight skirt.
Teach the correct processing of the fastener in one of the ways, observing the processing technology.
Contribute to the education of aesthetic taste, mindfulness.
To instill the skills of a culture of work and accuracy.
Develop coordination of hand movements, performing skills.
Lesson time: 90 minutes.
Lesson type: combined.
Main forms of work: frontal, individual
Teaching methods: verbal, visual, practical.
Equipment and materials:
- Tools for personal use Textbook, workbook Scraps of fabric, zipper tape
During the classes
1 . Organizational part (2 min.)
Greetings;
Checking the students present;
Check readiness for the lesson.
2. Repetition of the material covered (25 min.).
Game - competition "The art of cutting and sewing"
1.Preparatory moment: (3 min)
Students are divided into two teams, come up with a team name that should contain a technological term (needle, pin, thread, thimble, ....) and choose a commander who will record the number of correct answers.
2. Blitz tournament (7 min)
The teacher takes turns asking the teams questions to which they must quickly answer. One point is awarded for each correct answer. If the team answers incorrectly, the right to answer passes to the opponents.
Questions of the blitz tournament for the Needle team
Which side of the machine needle is threaded on?
(From the side of the thread guide and the long groove; depending on the sewing machine, the long groove of the needle and the thread guide may be on different sides.)
In what cases is a seam seam used?
(A seam is used to connect two or more parts).
What is the name of the thread that runs along the edge?
(Wash threads or equity threads).
How far should the sewing machine be when threading?
(On the job).
What is the meaning of copy lines?
(They serve to transfer lines from one part to another).
Blitz tournament questions for the Nitochka team
Why is it necessary to change the stitch length when using a sewing machine?
(The stitch length is changed because thin fabrics are sewn with small, short stitches, and thick and dense fabrics are sewn with longer ones.)
What are the threads that run across the edge called?
(Duck threads).
From which side should the light fall when working on a sewing machine?
(Left side or front).
4. In what position should the presser foot be after finishing work on the sewing machine?
(At the end of the work, the presser foot should be in the down position).
What is a reverse sewing machine used for?
(For machine bartacking).
Competition "What is it?" (3 min)According to the verbal description, you need to guess the type of clothing.
Assignment to the team "Needle"
The product belongs to the shoulder group. It is sewn mainly from cotton fabric. When sewing, the following seams are used: double, edging, hem seam with a closed cut. This thing makes our sleep ... rest more enjoyable.
(Nightdress).
Assignment to the "Thread" team
The product belongs to the belt group. It is sewn from all types of fabric. It can be part of a costume or an independent product. Worn by both men and women. (Trousers).
Competition "The Fourth Extra" (3 min)Schoolchildren are read words, one of which is outside the logical series. The task is to find the odd word.. One point is awarded for each correct answer.
1. Sheet, pillowcase, tablecloth, duvet cover. (Tablecloth).
2. Foot drive, hand drive, electric drive, hydraulic drive. (Hydraulic drive).
3. centimeter, square, scissors, ruler . (Scissors).
4. Stochny, tuning, consignment note, estimating. (estimating)
5. Contest "What's Behind This?" (3 min)
Schoolchildren should name products, objects that make up generalizing concepts (generalizing words) proposed by the teacher orally. For each correct and possibly more complete answer, 3 points are awarded.
1. Fittings (buttons, buttons, buckles, fasteners…….)
2. Sewing tools (needle, thimble, scissors, measuring tape….)
6. Competition "Finish the proverb" (3 min)
Did the deed ... (walk boldly).
The work of the master ... .. ( fears).
What will you sow . .(you will reap).
I make time... (fun hour).
Patience and hard work... (everything will be crushed).
Hurry up people ... (laugh).
Measure seven times …(cut once).
The forest is cut ... ( chips fly).
Teams receive one point for each correctly continued proverb.
On modesty:
Boast - do not mow, your back will not hurt.
I call a lot, but little sense.
Words here and there, but nowhere in deeds.
Weaving lace with the tongue.
Do not hurry with your tongue - hurry with your deeds.
Mutual assistance and fellowship:
Who soon helped, he helped twice.
Advice is good, action is better.
Road spoon to dinner.
Friendship is stronger than stone walls.
A smart interlocutor is half the road.
Where there is harmony, there is a treasure.
7. As we know the rules of safe work. (3 min)
The students answer the questions proposed by the students by raising their hand, yes or no:
In case of an emergency, turn off the sewing machine immediately.
The platform of the sewing machine must be free of foreign objects.
The iron is turned on and off with dry hands, holding on to the body of the plug.
The thread for threading the needle can be measured to any length.
The thread is not bitten off with teeth.
Pins and needles must be stored in the pad.
The hot soleplate of the iron may be touching the electrical cord.
In the process, you can damage your fingers with a needle or pin.
Before starting work, tools and fixtures must be put in the place provided for them.
Put the scissors on the right with closed blades pointing away from you.
(Group leaders count the number of points scored by the team)
Teacher: Everyone took an active part in the proposed game, which contributed to the consolidation of the knowledge gained.
PHYSICAL MINUTE
(A few simple exercises that are recommended for technology lessons)
Vigorous walking in place, in which you need to swing your arms wide and raise your knees as high as possible. Duration 1-1.5 min. This exercise tones the major muscle groups while increasing blood circulation. From the starting position, standing, arms lowered along the body, legs shoulder-width apart, rising on tiptoe, at the same time unbend and strain your back, and put your hands behind your head and spread your elbows to the sides while tilting your head back. Repeat 4-5 times within one minute. This exercise tones the back muscles, relieves congestion in the occipital region, and increases blood flow. Standing, hands on the waist, turns of the torso are performed with the spreading of the arms to the sides. When turning - inhale, return to the starting position - exhale. Repeat 5-6 times within 1 min. This exercise tones the oblique muscles of the back, increases blood circulation in them. In the initial standing position, energetic swings of the arms are performed from behind the back through the sides behind the head and back. Hands are relaxed. Duration 1-1.5 min. This exercise increases blood flow and relieves tension in the upper extremities.
3. Communication of informative information (7 min)
(On the skirt image screen)
Initially, in the Middle Ages, a robe usually girdled at the throat was called a skirt. It was worn by both men and women. And only in the 15th century did a women's skirt appear. The length of the skirt was practically unchanged until the beginning of the 20th century.
Each nation had its own traditions in wearing skirts. So, Russian married women usually wore over their shirts ponyuvu - a skirt not sewn, but wrapped around the figure and fastened around the waist with a cord - damper. Poneva was often sewn from colorful fabrics and decorated with embroidery or braid.
As long as there are women's skirts, there are so many disputes about their length. Women wore long skirts that completely covered their legs until the 20th century, when the skirts began to be gradually shortened, at first only opening the toe of the boot.
In the 60s, a skirt barely covering the legs appeared in fashion.
Mid-calf midi skirts came into fashion in the 1970s.
Types of modern skirts: skirt - trousers, pleated skirt, skirt with straps, briefcase skirt, tulip skirt. The most relevant and fashionable is the classic straight skirt, which, depending on the length, suits every type of figure. We will make it, studying this section.
4. Presentation of the program material.
4.1.Technological sequence of manufacturing a straight skirt (presentation 5 min). Students write down the technological sequence for making a straight skirt in a notebook.
Preparing cut details for basting. Preparing a skirt for fitting. Conducting a sample. Correction of defects. Cutout processing. Side cut processing. Processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a braid-zipper. Processing the belt, processing the upper cut of the skirt with a stitched belt. Processing the bottom cut of the skirt. Processing the buttonhole and sewing on the button.
2nd lesson - processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a zipper braid.
Zipper Information ( 2 minutes) (the teacher shows lightning).
In a skirt, the zipper can be located in the left side seam, the seam on the back or front panel of the skirt. The zipper consists of a braid to which small teeth (links or a spiral) are attached, a lock with a ring and three metal rivets located at the top and bottom.
A zipper replaces a button, snap, or hook closure and serves as a decorative trim on some garments.
Zipper Benefits: (slide and writing in a notebook)
Reduced processing time;
Beautiful appearance;
Speed and ease of use.
Demonstration of samples of zipper processing in the side and middle seam, finished skirt.
4.2. Algorithm for processing the fastener in the side seam of the skirt with a braid-zipper ( presentation, 5 min).
In order to properly process the fastener with a zipper braid, it is necessary to distinguish the main details of the skirt. To do this, they need to be marked (signed)
1. Fold the two pieces right side inward.
2. Draw a side seam line with chalk or pencil at a distance of 2 cm from the cuts of the parts.
3. Set aside 16 cm (zipper length) from the upper sections of the part and draw a horizontal line limiting the length of the fastener.
4. Sweep the side cuts of the panels from the boundary line to the bottom.
5. Lay out the seam allowances in the basting area in different directions.
6. Attach the braid - zipper to the wrong side of the panels so that the beginning of the links is at a distance of 1 cm from the upper cut of the skirt (sample)
7. Baste the zipper, starting from the top cut of the skirt down, closing the braid to the middle of the links. Perform this operation on the other side.
The inset zipper should be closed with seam allowances.
The teacher demonstrates how to do the work. (7 min)
Reminder to follow the rules during practical work TB.
5. Practical work (15 min) students on throwing lightning.
Targeted visits by the teacher to students' workplaces in order to monitor compliance with technology and safety.
6. Final part (5 min.).
Questions to consolidate new material:
1. What new did we learn in the lesson? ( Skirt processing sequence, zipper processing methods)
2. What does it mean to label?
3. Benefits of a zipper (reduction of processing time, beautiful appearance, fast and easy to use)
An analysis of the mistakes made during the implementation of practical work is carried out.
Grading the journal.
Homework - § 11, bring cotton fabric for making a skirt in M 1: 2, tools for personal use.
Workplace cleaning.
References:
Simonenko “Technology” Grade 6 A guide for a teacher to study technology in Grade 6. Additional literature.
TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF PROCESSING A SKIRT
Initial processing of skirt parts
The initial processing will include the processing of tucks, folds, connecting parts with coquettes, overcasting cuts of parts, etc.
Skirts can be made on a lining to protect the back panel from pulling out. In the lining of the skirt, the darts are initially ground down (the darts can be replaced by soft folds), the side sections are ground down and overcast. In the left side seam, the linings are overcast and the edges are sewn under the fastener. The bottom of the lining is treated with a hem seam with a closed cut.
The processed lining is put into the skirt, in which the clasp is processed, the darts and notches are combined, the upper sections are equalized and connected on a sewing machine at a distance of 5 mm from the upper sections.
Processing fasteners in skirts
Fasteners in skirts are located on the front, back panel or in the left side seam, fold.
The most common zipper processed in two ways: at the same distance on both sides of the side seam line and at different distances. The links of the zipper, when connected, must be hidden under the seam allowances. The processing of the fastener is performed with stitched, overcast, ironed side seams and with ironed sections of the fastener.
Processing of fasteners - zippers when fastening at the same distance from folds. When attaching a zipper on a single-needle machine with a special foot, the line is placed at a distance of 4-7 mm from the edge of the fastener, depending on the size of the links. At the end of the fastener, the line is laid perpendicular to the cut at a distance of 1-5 mm from the end of the zipper links or at an angle (Fig. 17.15, a).
Processing of the zipper when fixing it with the shift of the links under skirt front panel. Under the ironed fold of the back panel of the skirt, the right part of the woven zipper tape is placed and open so that the fold of the zipper allowance is located butt to the zipper links, and the lock is at a distance of 15 mm from the upper cut of the skirt. After fixing the right side with pins, the zipper is closed, the fold of the zipper allowance from the side of the front panel is brought butt to the fold of the zipper allowance from the side of the back panel of the skirt and cut off with three or four pins in the transverse direction, securing the front panel and the zipper. When chipping, the upper sections of the front and back panels of the skirt are equalized and a single line of the side seam is created. Then the zipper is opened and from the wrong side, the parallelism of the location of the links relative to the fold is specified.
Attaching is performed from the front side in one step from the upper cut of the front panel to the upper cut of the back panel. The front part of the zipper is fixed at a distance of 8-10 mm, On the back panel of the skirt, a line is laid at a distance of 2 mm from the fold.
Rice. 17.15- Processing zippers on skirts
Processing of the zip fastener with full closing of the links. A feature of the processing of such a fastener is the fastening of the zipper with an offset under the front, place the links of the right side of the woven tape (3-5 mm relative to the side seam line). Allowances for side cuts in the fastener area are increased to 10-35 mm. When ironing the side seams, only the cut of the fastener of the front panel is ironed along the line of the side seam. The section of the fastener of the back panel is folded towards the wrong side, releasing an allowance of 3-5 mm relative to the line of the side seam, and ironed. Under the fold, the right side of the woven zipper tape is laid open so that the fold fits end-to-end with the links.
The right part of the woven tape of the zipper is stitched at a distance of 2 mm from the fold, ensuring free movement of the fastener lock. The zipper is closed, and the ironed fold of the zipper allowance to the front panel of the skirt is brought to the line of the side seam, equalizing the upper sections and chipping them off with pins.
Sew the left side of the woven tape along the front side of the front panel from above. They finish with a double - triple transverse stitch perpendicular to the side seam line or at an angle to it (Fig. 17.15. c). For the stability of the fastener and improve the appearance along the fold of its front part, a finishing stitch is performed at a distance of 2 mm from the edge.
Processing the top cut of the skirt with a stitched belt
The belt can be one-piece with a sub-belt or detachable, with a seam along the fold line. In length, it can consist of two parts: with a seam at the level of the side seam or under the belt loops. The ends of the belt usually overlap each other by 30-60 mm and are fastened with a welt loop and button or a metal hook and loop. A fastening allowance can be added to each or one of the ends of the belt. The belt is made with a lining of adhesive or non-adhesive fabric, as well as without a lining.
Before connecting the skirt with the belt, the upper cut of the skirt is cut, the length and width of the belt are specified.
On the wrong side of the inner part of the belt, a non-adhesive gasket is applied and adjusted along the length at a distance of 2-5 mm from the fold (middle) of the belt. The lower cut of the gasket is equalized with the lower cut of the belt when using a thin non-adhesive gasket. When using a sealed non-adhesive or adhesive gasket, the lower cut of the gasket should not reach 10 mm from the cut of the inner part of the belt.
The belt is bent in the middle along the fold with the front side inward, equalizing the sections and combining the control signs. The ends of the belt are turned and turned from the side of the gasket. Seam allowances are cut in the corners, leaving 3-4 mm. The belt is turned inside out on the front side, the ends are straightened and swept out on a special vehicle.
After ironing, the belt is connected to the upper cut of the skirt. The inner part of the belt is placed on the wrong side of the skirt, equalizing the cuts and control marks, and stitched along the belt with a seam 10 mm wide, while placing the hanger at the level of the side seams. The belt is turned away, the seam is folded towards the belt, the lower section of the belt is folded inward and stitched at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge so that the edge covers the seam of attaching the inner part of the belt (Fig. 17.16, a). The belt is ready to be ironed.
In products made of thick fabrics and knitted fabrics, the cut of the inner part of the belt is pre-overcast. The belt is sewn to the skirt, equalizing
front sides along the outer part of the belt. The belt is folded to the wrong side and adjusted to the skirt in the stitching seam, securing the inside of the belt (Fig. 17.16.6).
dry cleaning and wet heat treatment.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the top cut of the skirt with a belt
When processing a skirt on a single-needle machine with a special tool, the details of the belt are ground and wound on a cassette. The belt from the cassette is tucked into
The guide is fed under the foot with bent sections between which the upper section of the skirt is inserted and stitched. At the same time, the line is not brought to the ends of the belt by 30-40 mm. The ends of the belt are sewn up without a device, bending the sections inward (Fig. 17.16, c).
When processing on a two-needle machine with a device, the sections of the outer and inner parts of the belt are bent (Fig. 17.16, d).
Options for processing the upper edge of the skirt with corsage braid with hook fasteners (Fig. 17.18, a) or a stitched belt with a zipper (Fig. 17.19, b).
Figure 18.19 - Processing the top edges of the skirt
Processing the bottom cut of the skirt
The bottom of the skirt, depending on the model and properties of the fabric, can be processed in various ways: with a hem seam with a closed cut (Fig. 17.17, a), a hem seam with an open cut overcast (Fig. 17.17.6), edged (Fig. 17.17, c) .
The bottom of the skirt is preliminarily specified according to the pattern and a hemline is applied to the bottom. Then the bottom cut of the skirt is hemmed.
Figure 17.17 - Processing the bottom of the skirt
Skirt finishing
Depending on 01, the skirt is marked and overcast with loops on the belt and finishing details. 11ersd wet-heat treatment removes threads of stitches, cleans off traces of chalk and cleans industrial dust. The folds of the skirt are fastened at a distance of 10 mm from the bottom.
Wet-heat treatment of the skirt is carried out through a moistened pro-ironer from the inside of the skirt, starting with ironing the belt. Then the skirt panel is ironed, starting from the left side seam, without capturing the bottom of the product. And in the process of wet-heat treatment, the product is ironed under the allowances of tucks, seams of folds for removing prints. The skirt is turned on the front side and laid out with the bottom edge to the rmbopioshmu. The upper edge is folded to the side and the bottom is ironed with a gradual movement of the product. The laces are removed from the front side of the skirt and the skirt is steamed. Then sew on buttons and other accessories.
Technical description of the model.
The straight skirt is made of plain-dyed suiting fabric.
Darts and finishing elements along the bottom are located on the front panel.
On the back panel of the tuck, the middle seam, at the bottom of which a slot is made. The zipper is made in the middle seam at the top with a button.
The top cut is processed by turning.
The bottom is a folded seam with an open cut and finished with a finishing line.
Technological sequence for processing
slits on the skirt
|
The name of the operation |
Speciality |
Discharge |
Equipment |
|
|
Designate a location |
patterns, chalk |
|||
|
Duplicate spline allowances |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
|||
|
Overcast the sections of the middle of the back panels |
51 class, PO "Promshveymash", Podolsk |
|||
|
Stitch the middle section of the back panels |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
|||
|
Cut the allowance at the top of the right side of the slots | ||||
|
Iron the middle seam |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
|||
|
Iron the right allowance for the slots on the gasket |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
|||
|
Turn the corner of the slots along the line - edges |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
|||
|
Trim the seam allowance of turning | ||||
|
Align Right Side Corner | ||||
|
Sweep the bottom of the product |
needle, thimble |
|||
|
Iron the bottom and slot |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
|||
|
Lay a line along the edge |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
|||
|
Turn the left corner of the slots |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
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|
Cut out excess seam | ||||
|
Align left corner | ||||
|
Sweep the left edge of the slots and the bottom completely |
needle, thimble |
|||
|
Iron the left corner and bottom of the product |
UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky |
|||
|
Lay the finishing stitch along the bottom and secure the slot with a finishing stitch at an angle of 450 to the center line of the seam |
1022 class, JSC "Orsha", Belarus |
Technological operating card
for processing slots in a skirt
|
Operation: processing vents in a skirt |
|
|
Specialty R M U Discharge 1.3 1.2 1.2 Norm of time, from 2400 |
Equipment: 1022 class, Orsha JSC, Belarus, 51 class, Promshveymash Production Association, Podolsk, UPP-3M, Legmash, Gorky, scissors, needle, thimble, template, chalk |
|
Material: suit dyed |
The temperature of the ironing surface is 140 0 С, the Ideal threads are 50-80, the frequency is 2.5 stitches per 1 cm. |
|
Performance quality requirements |
Processing scheme |
|
Checking the details of the cut: The back half with an average seam - 2 children, cut out with an allowance for a slot width. 4-5cm, length is equal to the length of the slots plus 1.0-1.5cm. Adhesive gasket 2 children. Overcast the sections of the back panel. Outline the slot. On the left side, the edge line should be a continuation of the middle seam. On the right cut line, the slots pass at a distance of 0.7-1.5 cm from the cut. Allowances are duplicated, the left side is 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold of the slots and the bottom line, the right side so that the cut of the gasket does not reach the side cut by 0.7-1.5 cm, to the bottom line 0.1-0, 2 cm and overlapping the line of the middle seam by 1.5-2.0 cm |
|
|
The details of the back halves are folded face inward, equalizing the cuts, grind the middle seam and the top allowance of slots by 0.7-1.5 not reaching the side cut, the seam width is 1.0-1.5 cm of the top allowance. An allowance is cut at the top of the right side of the slots without reaching the line of 0.1 cm. The middle seam is ironed through a wet iron. | |
|
Process the right side: iron 0.5 cm per gasket. Grind the corner, cut off the allowances and excess. Turn out and sweep the bottom of the skirt, iron it. Along the edge of the slots, a line is laid 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge. |
|
|
Having processed the left corner, turning it at an angle of 450 to the bottom line, they notice the edge of the slots and the bottom of the skirt. Iron through a damp iron until the moisture is completely removed. Lay the finishing line along the bottom of the product and fix it at an angle of 450 to the middle seam, scribble, starting from the middle seam, and finish, not reaching 1.0-1.5 cm to the side allowances of the slots. |
|
PROCESSING OF A STRAIGHT SKIRT SECTION.
SIMPLE PATTERN
Mark the bartack with three lines in the form of an equilateral triangle.
It is advisable to lay a machine stitch or a line of small hand straight stitches along the outline of the bartack.
You should start from the lower left corner of the triangle, fasten the end of the thread on the wrong side and bring the needle to the front side of the left corner (point 1 in Fig. 01).
Then, in the upper corner, make a very short stitch from right to left (points 2 and 3), pull the thread to the front side.
Insert the needle into the lower right corner (point 4) and make a stitch from the wrong side, bring the thread out in the left corner just before the first needle puncture (point 5 in Fig. 02).
Perform bartacking in accordance with the presented scheme until the triangle is completely filled with stitches.
Figured simple bartack in the finished form should have the shape of an equilateral triangle (Fig. 04). The stitches must not be tightened, otherwise the bartack will take the form of an asterisk.
FIGURED BACKTACK COMPLEX
Mark the bartack with three lines in the form of an equilateral triangle. Sew a machine stitch or a line of small hand straight stitches along the contour of the bartack.
Carry out a backtack according to fig. 05 and 06.
On fig. 07 shows a complex figure bartack in finished form.
ATTACHING THE SLOTS FROM THE WRONG SIDE
To prevent damage to the product during operation
you can fix the beginning of the slots from the wrong side. To do this, a square is cut out of the lining or top fabric, the length of each side of which is approximately 6 cm. Fold the cut piece diagonally in the form of a triangle. Iron, overcast cuts. The hypotenuse of the resulting triangle has the necessary elasticity, this will avoid tearing the material when the splines are strongly stretched. Sew a triangle on the wrong side of the skirt, laying a line along the edge of the vents in finished form. With blind stitches, hem the triangle allowances to the slot allowances.
The technological process of manufacturing garments is the processing and assembly of parts and assemblies in a certain sequence. The technological sequence of processing products is understood as a list of technologically indivisible operations corresponding to the order in which they are performed in the manufacture of parts and assemblies of the product, indicating the specialty, equipment used, fixtures, technical conditions.
1. Preparation of fabric for cutting (for any product). Some fabrics in the process of wet-heat treatment (ironing), washing are subject to shrinkage. To avoid this, the fabric must be decatered before cutting (carry out wet-heat treatment).
- determination of the front side of the fabric (t The rope is usually doubled in a roll. Woolen fabrics are folded with the right side inward, and silk ones are folded outward. On the edge of the fabric, the punctures are directed from the wrong side to the front side of the fabric. All weaving defects are usually displayed on the wrong side of the fabric.
- inspect fabric for defects(on the front surface of the fabric there should not be: foreign fibers, short thickening of the threads, the absence of one or more warp or weft threads, different shades. There should be no defects in the color of the fabric. Mark all detected defects with soap or chalk on the wrong side of the fabric. Pay attention on them when cutting.
-determination of the direction of the share thread(The warp thread is directed along the edge of the fabric. When laying out patterns, try to avoid deviating from the direction of the warp thread.
-determining the direction of the drawing(if the pattern is directed in one direction, then lay out the patterns and cut out the details of the product in one direction.
If the fabric is smooth, does not have a one-sided pattern, then the pattern details can be laid out in different directions, but the direction of the warp threads must be taken into account.
On fabrics with large polka dots, the middle of the front and the middle of the back should pass through the center of the pea.
On fabrics with a large pattern, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and back coincides with the middle of the pattern. Pay attention to its symmetry!
On checkered or striped fabrics, determine if the checkers or stripes are symmetrical or not. If they are not symmetrical, then lay out the patterns in one direction.
On striped fabrics, lay out the patterns so that the middle of the shelf and back coincides with the middle of the central strip!
On small parts (valves, etc.), the stripes must match the stripes on the main parts.
Stripes should be placed symmetrically at the ends of the collar, lapels.
2. Layout of patterns on fabric, cutting
1. Fold the fabric in half, right side inward, align the edges. So that the fabric does not move when cutting, you can chop it with pins inside the contour of the parts.
2. First, lay out large parts (front, back, sleeves) on the fabric, then small parts (cuffs, collars, belt, etc.). Achieve an economical layout of patterns on fabric.
3. To the fold of the fabric, place the details that are given on the pattern in half size. After cutting out, you get a solid part
4. Draw long lines first, then short and oval ones. The lines must be straight. You can use rulers and patterns to trace the lines accurately and evenly.
5. Smooth, slippery fabrics (silk, chiffon, etc.) can warp during trimming and cutting. Be sure to pin them with pins.
6. After chalking the contour of the parts, mark on the fabric the location of the lines of the middle of the part, the half-slip line, the location of the first loop, pockets, darts, folds. After chalking the parts, mark the seam allowances
7. Cut the fabric strictly according to the seam allowances, holding the cut allowance in your hand (due to this rule, the layers of the parts to be cut out do not shift).
8. Do not forget that when cutting loose fabrics, the size of the seam allowances must be increased!
Pattern layout of a straight skirt on fabric with a directional pattern
Layout of a straight skirt pattern on fabric 140 cm wide
b
without a seam and with a seam on the back panel.
3. Preparing the skirt for fitting.
1. Laying guide lines and copy stitches on symmetrical parts or sides, along the lines of the middle of the front and back panels, waist, waist, hips.
2. Duplicate allowances for slots, fasteners, lay adhesive edges.
3. Sweep and sweep tucks, folds, reliefs.
4. Sweep and sweep the side and middle sections of the skirt.
5. Sweep the bottom of the skirt.
6. Perform wet-heat treatment of the product
7. Duplicate and prepare a belt or corsage ribbon.
4. Fitting
1. Put the product on the figure of the customer. Break or fasten the clasp. Refine the balance of the product on the figure by aligning the skirt with the figure of the customer along the waist and hips.
2. Check the width of the product in the waist, hips, by pinning or pinning the side seams. Specify the size and direction of the darts. Specify the length of the slot.
3. Refine the line of attaching the belt by pinning a belt or corsage ribbon to half of the skirt. Specify the length of the skirt.
5. Making changes, clarification. Straight stitches are laid along the marked chalk lines. Mark new lines of seams and interrupt or perforate them to the other side of the parts.
6. Processing of tucks. Darts allow you to bring the shape of clothing closer to the shape of a human figure. Sew along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the tuck by 0.1 ml. from the dash line. Press the darts towards the middle of the part. The slack in the fabric at the ends of the tucks is sutured.
7. Processing of the side sections of the skirt. The seams in the skirts are treated with stitched seams (inflated, ironed), stitched and linen seams. The choice of seams depends on the model and on the type of fabric.
8. Processing slots in the middle seam of the skirt
Duplication of allowances under the slot.
Right slot allowance Left slot allowance
Overcast each separately If the skirt is unlined, then the left allowance
middle cut and cuts slots. bend the slots and iron them 1-1.2 cm.
Sweep seam cuts and slots.
Stitch the middle edge and the top edges of the slots. Fixing allowances splines
Iron the middle sections above the slots. 2nd finishing line.
Press the slot on the left side.
9. The base of the upper and lower sections of the skirt. The skirt is cut off at the seams, darts in half along the right front side. The upper cut is specified or cut with an allowance of 1-1.5 cm for attaching the belt. Refine or cut the lower sections of the skirt, mark the line of the allowance for processing the lower sections of 3 cm (with soap, and then with straight stitches).
10. Processing the fastener with a zipper.
Concealed zipper processing
11. Processing the top cut of the skirt with a belt.
1. Doubling the skirt belt
2. Processing the skirt belt
a - turning the ends of the skirt belt;
b - belt processing
Basting and stitching the finished belt to the top edge of the skirt
1 - the middle of the front panel; The overcast section of the subbelt is sewn into the seam
2 - side seam; attaching a belt or along a belt at a distance
3 - the middle of the back panel 0.1-0.2 cm from its fold (line 2).
12. Bottom cut in a skirt processed with various types of edge seams. Most commonly used: hem seam (open or closed cut). The choice of seams depends on the model and on the type of fabric.
Features of processing a lined skirt
1. The lining of the skirt is cut according to the patterns of the top, with allowances for processing and freedom, and an allowance is added along the side seam to the part of the back panel at the level of the slots and below, for subsequent stitching it to the allowances of the slots.
2. The back panel of the skirt can be cut with a fold, as the lining material has a strong thread separation due to the thinness of the material. At the level of the fastener, the lining must be cut out in the form of a droplet, the sections of which are overcast, folded over by 0.5 cm and stitched 0.1 cm from the folded edge. The edges of the droplet are hemmed over the zipper with hidden stitches. If the back panel of the lining is cut with a seam, then the lining can be sewn to the fastener allowances.
3. The side sections of the lining are treated with a stitched seam. The darts on the lining are not ground down, but laid in folds in opposite directions from the darts.
4. The sections of attaching the lining to the belt are overcast together with the section of the belt. Hangers are inserted above the side seams when sewing the lining, which are prepared from the lining or use ribbons 0.5 cm wide.
5. The lower section of the skirt is treated with a hem seam with a closed section.On the bottom, the lining should be 2-3 cm shorter than the skirt.
6. If the skirt does not have slits and slits, leave slits in the side seams (15-20 cm long) on the lining to ensure freedom of step.
7. If there are slots or cuts on the skirt according to the model, then the cuts on the lining should correspond to them.
8. The simplest and most convenient type of processing is to cut an arcuate section of the fabric to the height of the slot or cut. Overcast the edges of the cutout (its width is 4 - 5 cm), fold it 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.There are more professional processing methods (see diagrams above).
Ways of processing the lining over the slot, incision.
Processing the lining over the cut Processing the lining above the slot
Ways to process the lining over the slot
Technological sequence of processing a straight skirt
p/pName of a technologically indivisible operation
Type of work, specialty
Applied equipment, tools, fixtures
Technical conditions and requirements for the operation
1.
Stitch tucks on p / p and c / p skirts.
M
GC188 MD
Sew along the side lines starting from the cut of the part and ending at the line of the end of the tuck by 0.1 ml. from the dash line.
2.
Iron darts
At
PGU-1-120"ELEGANT" - Ironing unit
Figured semicircular block
Press the darts towards the middle of the part. The slack in the fabric at the ends of the tucks is sutured.
3.
Overcast the middle sections and sections of the vents of the skirt
CM
JUKI MO – 6700 S Series
Overcasting of slices is performed from the front side of the part. Fill the threads at the edges of the slots.
4.
Stitch the middle sections of the skirt
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Details of the rear panel fold faces.stor. inside, equalize the cuts and sweep along the entire seam. Stitch sh.sh. 1-1.5 cm. Starting the line from the control sign that determines the length of the fastener and ending obliquely at the ironed edge of the slots.
5.
WTO medium cuts
At
PGU-2-101EKO Industrial console ironing unit
Filling steam generator 2.5lPS05/ B
Iron the allowances of the middle cuts in the area of the fastener, in the area of the slots, iron on the left part of the back panel without heaping.
6.
Fixing the allowance splines
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Lay the finishing line on the front side. z / n skirts at an angle to the middle seam of the back, fixing the allowances for slots.
7.
Stitch side skirts
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Slices fold faces.side. inside, equalize slices, combine counter. signs on the line of the hips, sweep
Sh.sh. 1-1.5 cm at a distance of 0.1 ml. from the swept seam.
8.
Overcast the side skirts
CM
JukiMo– 3900 overcasting machine complete with table
Slices are overcast from the side of the front panel to the width of the overlock foot.
9.
Iron or iron the sides of the skirt
At
Console ironing unit
Filling steam generator 2.5l
In the upper part, iron with a semicircular block, in the lower part on a straight block without bulk, until it fits completely.
10.
Zipper Processing
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
They are tucked under the right fold butt to the zipper teeth, under the left fold at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the fold. Attached in one go. The line runs on the left back panel at a distance of 0.7 - 1 cm, on the right - 0.1-0.2 cm from the seam allowance.
11.
Belt Processing
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
Grind the ends of the belt w.w 0.5-0.7 cm. The end of the front belt is turned along the lower cut w.w. 1 cm to a length of 2.5 - 3 cm. The corners are cut out, the ends of the belt are twisted, straightened, ironed. Overcast the cut of the subbelt.
12.
Stitch top waistband to skirt
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
The belt is folded with a skirt of faces. inside, equalize the sections and ends of the belt. Baste with a width of 0.9-1.4 cm. Stitch with a width of 1-1.5 cm. Sweep the sewing seam and iron it on the belt.
13.
Sew the bottom edge of the subbelt
M
GC188 MD– Single-needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine
The overcast section of the subbelt is sewn into the seam by sewing on the belt or at a distance of 01-0.2 ml. from the seam of attaching the belt, inserting hangers over the side seams.
14.
Overcast the bottom edges of the skirt
CM
2-needle high-speed sewing machine (overlock) JUKI MO – 6700 S Series
Overcasting of the lower cut is performed from the front side of the product, starting and ending at the edges of the slots. Sweep and iron along the marked line.
15.
Hem the bottom edges of the skirt
R
Hand needle No. 2, polyester thread
Blind hemming stitches, threads in the color of the base material. Stitch length 2-3 in 1 cm.
16.
Sew a buttonhole on the waistband of the skirt
CM
LBH1790 - 2-thread semi-automatic for making various types of buttonholes
Overcast the loop at a distance of 0.7 cm from the upper edge of the belt, for a length corresponding to the diameter of the button + 0.2 ml. threads in the color of the main material.
Technological sequence of skirt manufacturing
1. Model development. Sketch.
2. Taking measurements.
3. Construction of a drawing of the base of the skirt.
4. Modeling the base drawing.
5. Preparing the pattern for cutting.
6. Preparing the fabric for cutting:
Decatation of fabric;
Lay out the patterns on the fabric;
Perform trimming of patterns;
Set aside seam allowances;
Make a cut.
7. Preparing the product for fitting:
Sweeping tucks;
Basting the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Sweeping side seams;
Baste the bottom of the product.
8. Carrying out the first fitting:
Troubleshooting;
Mark the length of the product.
9. Processing the product after trying it on a sewing machine:
Grinding tucks;
Stitching side seams;
Attaching a zipper to the middle seam of the back panel, or in the side seam of the skirt;
Stitching the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt;
Processing slots in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt.
10. Processing the bottom cut of the skirt:
Sweep and process the bottom of the product.
11. Evaluation of the finished product.
12. Self-control.
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