Types of thread stitches and their names. Embroidery. The main types of seams

Each of us, especially women, sooner or later is faced with the need to pick up a seamstress's tool in order to sew, hem, alter, darn or simply sew on a button.

Of course, you want the work done to be as accurate as possible, right? But how to achieve the desired result? In our article, we will try to understand this together.

Types of junctions and the purpose of their use

Before proceeding to the existing types of stitches, let's take a closer look at the concept of a seam and what it serves. So, seam is a manipulation, which allows you to fasten two or more layers of matter in a certain position using hand or machine stitching. Today, there are a large number of different types of seams, each of which has its own purpose. With the help of one stitch, various parts of the product are swept away, while others are reunited into one whole, the third are intended for hemming the bottom of the product.

All stitches, without exception, are divided into machine and hand stitches according to the method of their execution. Some manipulations when working with fabric must be carried out manually, for example: basting, laying copy snares - stitches and much more. In our article we will talk about manual types of stitches.

Buttonhole stitch

Algorithm for performing loop soldering(photo):

when performing the first loop, it is necessary that the beginning of the thread is pulled into the loop, which will then be tightened;
the beginning of the thread must be placed on the edge of the material cut used;
to carry out several loop solderings;
cut the beginning of the thread, after pulling it a little.

Continuation of the buttonhole stitch if the thread has run out:

leave the free end of the ended thread;
make a loop of the next soldering already with a new thread, without tightening the loops;
thread the end of the first thread and the beginning of a new one into this loop, then moderately tighten the loop;
the ends of the threads must be placed on the edge of the material cut used;
make a few more solderings;
the ends of the threads need to be slightly tightened, and then cut off.

Finishing buttonhole stitch:

it is necessary to carry out the last few stitches in one place;
turn the material over to the wrong side;
bring the needle under the last few stitches, tighten the thread moderately, then cut.

Blind seam by hand

Blind stitch It is used to hem the bottom of an item that is made of high quality material such as silk or silk. Not suitable for cotton products. It is necessary to adhere to the following interval: there should be 3 stitches per 1 cm of the line. The soldering should be done with silk threads to match the color of the fabric. It is not necessary to tighten the thread during the stitch. As a result of the work done, the thread should not be visible on the front and back sides.

Execution algorithm:

it is necessary to fold the fabric by 50 - 70 mm on the wrong side equally along the entire length of the product, after which the folded edge should be swept and ironed well;
from the resulting bend along the front side, it is necessary to measure the width of the hem, which, as a rule, varies from 3 to 6 cm;
bend the resulting hem width to the wrong side, then baste and iron;
to carry out a puncture of the product with a needle, affecting 1-2 threads of the fabric, and with the appropriate manipulation to pass the needle through the inner bent edge;
the distance between the punctures should be stable half a centimeter.

Figured seam "goat"

This type of soldering must be done to hem the lower part of the product if the cut of the material open and does not fold into the inside. It is used for products that are made of non-flowing and dense materials.

The stitch must be done from left to right. It is necessary that the seam stitches leave the edge of the hem by 10 mm for thin and up to 30 mm for dense fabrics. The size of each stitch for thin fabrics should not exceed 50 mm, and dense - 70 mm.

Execution algorithm:

we bend the fabric of the material to the wrong side, no more than 3–6 cm wide and identical along the entire length of the seam;
we introduce a needle under the hem, we carry out the first puncture in it;
we draw the thread forward, and the needle from right to left, using 2 hem threads, but at the same time, without piercing the fabric of the product.

Performing soldering:

soldering must be carried out from left to right;
it is necessary that the needle always moves from right to left, and the thread, in turn, from left to right, forming cruciform stitches;
the thread does not need to be tightened, the solderings should be on weight.

Overlock seam by hand

This soldering is necessary in order to make the cut of the material more accurate and prevent shedding of the product. This stitch is used for lined garments. An overcast seam made with a silk thread matching the colors of the product made of thin fabrics is almost invisible and does not create a visual volume of the stitch allowance thickness, which is extremely important for the external characteristics of the product. As a rule, about 3-4 stitches are made for every 0.1 cm in length no more than 70 mm. An analogue of a manual seam is a role soldering, which is performed using an overlock.

Spike ""

This stitch is similar to a machine stitch. It starts similar with basting soldering. Then you need to make one stitch back, putting it on top of the first stitch. The needle comes out again and again on the right side of the fabric, the distance of which is one gap between the stitches.

Before proceeding with the task, you need to have an idea of how it should look like in the end. From the front side, we see perfectly even stitches, and from the wrong side - at an angle, as if they are on top of each other.

stalk seam

The stalk seam is one of the most common seams. V. As a result of the work, we get graceful contours of lines that can be straight, curved or rounded. Looks great in plant embroidery. By the way, this is one of the oldest seams in the world.

Permanent hand stitches are used when sewing clothes or any other fabric product. For example, a back and forth stitch can replace a straight machine stitch in small areas. An over-the-edge seam and an overcast seam process edges that are inaccessible to the machine.

A straight stitch, more commonly used to hold folds together. The seam is simple, but not very reliable. Work from right to left, sticking in and out of the needle several times before pulling the thread. Stitch length 3 mm.

Durable seam, used instead of machine. From right to left, make a small stitch. Insert the needle at the beginning of the previous stitch and pull it out in front of the thread. In the same way, sew the next stitches, sticking the needle into the end of the last stitch.

A strong stitch that can be used to overcast hems and sew multiple layers of fabric at the same time. From right to left, pierce the fabric, with a needle, from bottom to top, stepping back a few millimeters from the edge. Continuing the seam, move to the left.

Used for inconspicuous stitching of zippers. From right to left, make a small stitch back, pulling the needle 6-10 mm to the left of the thread. Next, lay the same tiny stitches “back to the needle”.

It is used for butt connection of 2 layers of fabric. From right to left, sew a 6mm stitch inside the folded edge of one pleat. Then make the same stitch inside the folded edge of the other fold.

It is used for processing the edges of non-flowing fabrics. From right to left, slightly stepping back from the edge, pierce the fabric with a needle from the bottom up. Slightly stepping back to the left and again pierce the fabric from the bottom up.

A decorative stitch used instead of top stitching. From right to left, make a small back stitch, picking up a few threads from the fabric. Step back 7-10 mm and withdraw the needle, capturing only the top layer of tissue. Repeat.

In this article, we have described almost all the main manual permanent seams, we will write about temporary manual seams in the next article.

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So it is also the skills that most of the people around us possess to one degree or another. Perhaps, everyone has sewn on a button at least once in their life.

We will not touch on everything in general, a fairly large list of hand seams, but those that are called "by ear" and are most in demand, we will consider in this article.

Hand stitches

We will talk about seams, that is, the connection of several (most often two) layers of fabric with one or more rows of repeating stitches of the same type.

Manual seams are used both for temporary purposes - connecting product parts, and as permanent ones - for finishing garments, processing cuts, connecting product parts, sewing on sewing accessories, etc.

Since temporary manual seams are indicative in nature - these are the contours of the parts of the patterns on the fabric, the directions of the lines of the middle of the shelves, backs, etc., and should be clearly visible on the material, then they are laid with thin cotton threads contrasting with the main fabric color.

The threads of temporary manual seams are removed by cutting the seam every 10-15 cm and gently pulling the ends of the threads.

When it comes to permanent hand seams, it is clear that they are laid with threads that match (i.e., close in color) to the main fabric so that they are as less noticeable on it as possible.

The numbers of threads and needles are selected taking into account the type of fabric and the type of sewing operation (basting, hemming, etc.) that will be performed.

Just as with machine seams, when sewing by hand seams, a backtack is made at the beginning and end of each seam. Moreover, it does not matter what type of seams are laid - temporary or permanent.

You can just tie a knot, but, as a rule, bartacking when laying manual seams is done by analogy with bartacking machine seams, using one of the proposed options.

1. The edges (cuts) of the parts to be joined are aligned. The needle is inserted into the fabric from the “back” side towards itself and is attracted, leaving a thread tail 1-1.5 cm long.

2. When laying temporary stitches, 1-2 stitches (stitch to stitch) are made through the tap (cuts) of the connected parts and 3-4 stitches of the bartack when laying permanent stitches, holding the tail of the thread with your finger.

Depending on the type of stitches being laid - temporary or permanent - the tail of the thread, respectively, either
remains, or cut off and then the necessary seam is applied.

3. All actions are exactly the same, with the exception of the backtack stitches, which in this case are laid parallel to the edges (cuts) of the parts.

0.5-0.7 cm before the end (or start) of the hand seam, a stitch is made in the opposite direction, but the thread is not tightened to the end, a loop is formed, into which the thread with the needle is drawn away from itself and, without tightening the thread, moving towards itself in the opposite direction, the thread with the needle is now drawn into a loop, while carefully tightening the thread. Thus, a strong knot-tack is formed.

In the event that this is the beginning of a manual seam, then a seam is laid further, and if this is the end of the seam, then before cutting the thread, the needle and thread are brought into the seam allowance space and cut off.

This method of trimming the thread reduces the likelihood of "blooming" of the bartack.

Depending on the type of thread weave, hand stitches can be classified into straight, oblique, looped, cruciform and special.

With the exception of cross stitches and buttonholes, all hand stitches are sewn from right to left.

In addition to the fact that, regardless of the type of seams (manual or machine), they are of high quality, in addition to their main function - the connection of elements, parts, assemblies, etc., they also fully perform the function of finishing products.

This is due to the fact that the seams from under the needles should come out even (in the sense, straight), with evenly tightened (unless otherwise specified in the seam laying technology) threads and with the same distance between the stitches.

The simplest and most commonly used are hand stitches made with straight stitches.

Basting stitch (basting stitch) with straight stitches
It is used for temporary connection of parts (basting of parts) and for creating assemblies.

Depending on the type of fabric I used and the type of sewing operation performed in which this seam is used, the length of the stitches is 0.2-5 cm.

Temporary: as a rule, it is laid in front of the machine seam, so it is done at a distance of 0.1-0.5 cm from the contour of the future seam towards the cut, so as not to disturb the integrity of the seam when removed, which will be laid by the sewing machine.

Regarding the length of the stitches on the front and back sides, there are also some recommendations. So, for example, the formation of assemblies, basting, basting, basting, basting, basting - all this is done with straight stitches of the same length (0.5-5 cm) from the front and back sides.

For drawing reference marks, fold lines, mid-part lines, etc. more often; In total, different-sized stitches 1-3 cm long are used.

This seam is used to transfer contour lines from one symmetrical side of the product to another.

Copy stitch perform as follows: the parts of the product are folded with the front side inward.

Running stitches are laid along the marked lines at a distance of 0.3-1 cm from each other, while the thread is not tightened, but loops are made 1-1.5 cm high, depending on how thick the fabric is.

The loop is needed in order to be able to push the layers of fabric.

Copy stitches are laid strictly along the contours of the parts. After running stitches are laid along the entire contour, the details of the product are moved apart, and the stretched threads are cut in the middle. In this way, contours are transferred to symmetrical parts.

Skew stitches are called so because they are laid at an angle to the seam line.

Hand stitches with bias stitches are used when it is necessary that the details of the cut or layers of fabric in no case move relative to each other.

Among other things, hand-stitched bias stitches are much more elastic than hand-stitched straight-stitch seams, which does not prevent the fabric from stretching.

Oblique stitches are used for temporary and permanent hand seams. Temporary include basting (basting) and basting seams.
The basting stitch with oblique stitches is used when basting collars, selection, etc.

Oblique stitches when making basting seams are laid parallel to each other with a length of 0.7-2 cm from left to right.

The needle is withdrawn from the material from the bottom up (as if towards itself) at a small distance from the edge of the parts and a stitch is laid along the surface of the upper part at an angle to the stitch line from top to bottom through all layers of fabric in the direction from the edge of the part.

The next needle puncture is made along the surface of the lower part from the bottom up through all layers of the fabric along a line perpendicular to the edge of the parts to be joined towards the stitch line. Thus, a basting seam is formed with oblique stitches.

The final will be a machine stitch, laid along the marked lines on the cut details, after which it is necessary to remove all the basting seams and turn the stitched parts or the product to the front side.

If it is necessary to fix the seams inside the product, use a basting seam, which is performed similarly to a basting seam.

Most often, the basting seam is used when processing overhead yokes, pockets, collars, etc.

Just keep in mind that due to its remarkable feature of fixing “tightly”, basting and basting seams are not recommended when processing parts from fabrics with checkered and striped patterns and parts from light, thin fabrics.

In the first case, during wet-heat treatment, the pattern may be distorted, and in the second, the structure of the fabric may change.

The stitches are guided freely, without tightening, the length of the stitches is 0.5-0.7 cm.

One of the representatives of manual seams with permanent oblique stitches is an overcast seam, which is often used when it is necessary to process the edge (cut) of the fabric from shedding.

It is performed as follows: at a distance of 0.3-0.5 cm from the edge of the fabric, a needle is inserted into the material perpendicular to the edge from bottom to top from right to left.

This stitch is used to permanently connect parts in cases where machine stitching is very difficult (one might say impossible), when a high stretch stitch is needed (middle trouser stitch) or when it is necessary to secure the thread at the beginning or end of embroidery.

In any case, it is the most durable seam among all hand seams. Stitches are laid without breaks (gaps). A needle prick is made at the exit point of the needle of the previous stitch.

On the seam line (a permanent seam is laid only in the indicated directions), a puncture is made from top to bottom with a needle of all layers of the material.

On the seam line along the part that is located below, a stitch is made forward and a needle is pierced through all layers of the material, but already from the bottom up. The distance between the inlet and outlet of the needle is 0.1-0.3 cm.

On the seam line along the surface of the upper part, a back stitch is made, inserting the needle into the previous puncture of the fabric from top to bottom.

On the seam line, having brought out the needle with the thread, the next stitch is made on the surface of the lower fly and the needle is pierced through the weight of the layers of material from the bottom up. The stitch length in this case will be twice as long as the thread runs along the previous stitch and a new stitch is made.

Then a stitch is again laid, introducing the needle back (by the needle) into the previous puncture. Thus, a sewing seam is formed by the needle.

Consider another type of seams, the essence of which is the same, but there are several options for execution. We are talking about the seams included in the group called hemming.

Despite significant progress in the field of sewing technologies, the area of processing the lower sections of products cannot yet refuse manual work, and it is there that hemming seams are most often used. Consider the most commonly used.

We recall that to make hemming seams, the threads are selected to match the tone of the fabric (do not compare with visual illustrations, since only contrasting colors are used for clarity).

Whatever hemming seam you choose, before you start work, you need to prepare the cut (edge) of the product for processing.

First you need to bend the entire allowance for the hem of the product and fix it 0.5-1 cm from the fold in any way convenient for you (stab with pins or baste).

Then bend the cut (edge) directly of the allowance of the product by 0.5-1 cm from the cut (edge) and also fix it, stepping back from the edge of the resulting fold by 0.3-0.5 cm.

Iron both folds. The result is a folded edge with a closed cut. Now you can proceed directly to the process of hemming.

A simple hem stitch is used to fix a folded edge on the wrong side of the product, for example, to hem the bottom of the product.

It is performed as follows. The thread is fixed in the fold of the hem allowance and further, grabbing 1-2 threads from the wrong side of the product in the direction from the wrong side of the product, the tip of the needle is brought under the allowance and the needle is brought out to the side of the allowance through the entire thickness of the folded cut at a distance of 0.3-0.5 cm from the fold of the folded cut.

The direction of the stitch is from right to left. And so on until the end of the treated area.

A blind hem stitch is used for the same purpose - to fix the finished part or hem the product on the wrong side of the product. The only difference is that it is performed in such a way that the seam lines are not visible, either from the front side or from the wrong side.

To do this, the folded edge with a closed cut is folded to the front side of the product and the seam is laid along the front surface of the upper fold of the hem allowance and along the wrong side of the product not higher than the level of the upper fold of the hem allowance.

The blind hem stitch is sewn from right to left. There are several ways to sew a blind hem stitch.

A blind seam with unequal blind loop stitches is performed in this way - the hem allowance with a closed cut is folded to the front side of the product, 0.3-0.4 cm from the fold line of the upper cut of the hem allowance of the product, and a bartack is made in the hem allowance, at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge of the hem.

Again, with a slight inclination to the left, the needle is inserted into the surface of the front side of the folded cut (edge) of the hem allowance of the product 0.1-0.2 cm from the upper fold of the hem allowance, passes between two layers of fabric: the hem allowance and the upper fold of the hem allowance and is brought out again after 0.5-1 cm to the front side of the folded cut of the hem allowance.

That is, the needle passes only one layer of fabric - the top fold of the hem allowance and exits the same layer. And so we move until the end of the hem. Do not tighten the thread.

And the second option is a hidden seam with the same loop stitches.

The technology for making this seam is similar to the seam technology with unequal hidden loop stitches.

The whole difference lies in the fact that when the needle and thread are inserted into the front side of the folded cut (edge) of the hem allowance, it does not stretch 0.5-1 cm, but only picks up 1-2 threads on this surface and returns back to the surface of the wrong side of the product.

The needle, as it were, jumps from the surface of the wrong side of the product to the front surface of the fold of the hem allowance - back and forth, back and forth.

The task is reduced only to control so that these jumps (in the sense of picking up 1-2 threads) are uniform and asymmetric relative to each other.

It does not matter how the product is hem, it is important that the result in both cases (of course, provided that the work is done efficiently) will justify the name of the seam - a secret one. Neither from the front side, nor from the wrong side, the hemming thread is not visible.

The seam is used to fix the hem of open raw sections of product parts or the products themselves from crumbling fabrics. This seam is from the "2 in 1" series, i.e., the raw cut of the product is processed, and the hem allowance for the product is fixed.

This seam has a peculiar technology: the seam itself moves from left to right, but the needle moves from right to left. And the needle jumps at the same time, as in the previous example, from one surface to another.

The hem allowance is folded to the wrong side of the product, fixed (with pins or basting) and ironed, i.e. the wrong side of the hem allowance (hem) is aligned with the wrong side of the product.

On the back of the hem, facing the wrong side of the product, a backtack is made (in this case, you can simply tie a knot) and the thread is brought to the front side of the hem from the bottom up at a distance of 0.4-0.5 cm from the raw cut.

Directing the tip of the needle from right to left, i.e. in the opposite direction, with an inclination to the right of the thread exit, 2-3 threads are picked up by the needle on the surface of the wrong side of the product 0.2-0.3 cm above the raw cut and a thread is pulled through them.

Without changing the direction of the needle, from left to right at a distance of 0.5-0.7 cm from the first needle puncture and at the level of the first needle puncture, 2-3 threads are picked up on the front surface of the hem and a thread is pulled through them.

So, alternating the pickups of the threads from the bottom and top, the hemming seam is laid with cross stitches.

Source - Bible Sewing Magazine

Basic sewing skills should have not only beginner needlewomen, but also each of us. After all, sooner or later, any person is faced with the need to repair clothes or household items: sew up a hole, attach a button. In this simple matter, sewing skills in the form of performing various types of seams for high-quality work by hand will come in handy.

Of course, now there is a huge variety of different seams that are used not only for stitching parts, but also for decorating the product. In the same article, the most famous and simple seams will be considered, which are usually connected and finished with fabrics, as well as accessories are sewn on.

Consider the main types of seams by hand for beginner needlewomen

Basting seam (line).

This type of seam is usually used to fasten temporary parts and form assemblies. This is a basic sewing skill that is taught to children in craft classes in elementary school.

The stitch length varies from a few millimeters to several centimeters, depending on the type of fabric chosen. It is performed with the usual identical stitches “forward with a needle” both from the front and from the wrong side. If this seam indicates fold lines or any other control marks, the length of the stitches should be different (from 1 to 3 cm).

Basting stitch, as a rule, fastens parts before subsequent finishing with machine stitching. Therefore, it is laid at a distance of several millimeters from the future main seam in order to avoid violating its integrity.

Interlining seam.

This type of seam is a variation of the estimating seam described above. Usually used for various marks during fittings, as well as intermediate marks during the sewing process. It is laid on one layer of material. The length of the stitches is a couple of centimeters, each of them is located at a distance of several millimeters from each other.

Also, this seam is used for beadwork, the length of the stitches will be minimal.

Silky (copy stitch).

This type of seam is usually used to symmetrically transfer the desired contour to the other side of the product. To do this, two parts are taken and stacked on top of each other with the right side inward. Then a line is marked along which ordinary running stitches are laid at a distance of several millimeters from each other. However, the thread is not tightened, but remains free in the form of small loops, the height of which is 1 cm. This is done so that the parts can then be moved apart. After that, the threads are pulled and cut in the middle.

Stitch seam.

It is used in the case when the parts are connected on an ongoing basis, and it is very difficult to perform machine stitching. Excellent for leather and shoe stitching, due to its high strength compared to other types of hand stitching. It is also used for mending clothes, which is what they learn at labor lessons in grade 5.

The basis of this type is the seam "by the needle". After completing the initial stitch, the needle is displayed on the front side of the product. Then it goes back to the place where the first stitch ended, returning to the wrong side. And again goes to the front side at a distance equal to two stitch lengths. Similarly, the entire series is formed without gaps.

Overcast seam.

This type of seam is used to prevent fraying of the fabric at the edges of the product. Of course, it is better to process the material on an overlock, but you can also handle it with the help of manual seams.

The bias seam is done over the edge. The stitches are formed from right to left, and the row is formed from bottom to top. The distance between the stitches is minimal (3 stitches per 1 cm of fabric).

Slices are processed with a cross-shaped seam, and it is performed in a similar way. However, the needle is guided in both directions from top to bottom. In this case, the thread from the previous stitch should lie under the needle. The row is laid from left to right.

Hem seam (simple).

It is used for hemming the bottom of the product, while fixing the folded cut on the wrong side. The thread is fastened in the fold of the fabric allowance, then the needle grabs a little fabric from the inside and is brought out to the side of the folded fabric through the entire material at a distance of several millimeters. All other stitches are formed in a similar way. The line runs from right to left

Hemming seam (hidden).

This type of seam is also used for processing a part or for hemming material. A distinctive feature is the absence of a visible seam line on both sides of the product due to the passage of the thread under the fold of the fabric and the tacking of a small amount of threads of the base material. What the seam looks like is shown in the photo.

Video materials on the topic of the article

Details of clothing are fastened together with the help of seams. How unexpected! :)

Separate hand and machine seams.

Consider hand seams, which are especially indispensable at the initial stage of manufacturing a product.

Seams are made with one or more lines, and, in addition to the main function, they are also used to finish the product.
The seams should be even, with the same distance between the stitches, both on the right side and on the wrong side, with evenly tightened threads.

Types of hand seams.

1. The most common seam at the initial stage of manufacturing a product is estimated.
It is used to temporarily connect parts (basting), create assemblies.
Depending on what fabric you are dealing with and what you use this seam for, the stitch length is 0.2-5 cm.

2. Gasket seam - a kind of estimating. It is convenient to use it for marking during fitting, marking the middle of the product, etc.
It is performed on one layer of fabric. The length of the stitches is 1-3 cm, the distance between them is 0.5-0.7 cm.

Hand seams. 1 - Basting, 2 - interlining, 3 - copying, 4 - round, 5a - transfer seam (front side), 5b - transfer seam (wrong side), 6 - stitching, 7 - seam "by the needle".

3. silky or copy stitch.
It is used for accurate transfer of contour lines, control marks from one symmetrical side of the product to another. It is very convenient, gives an excellent opportunity to absolutely precisely sweep, combine products for further work.
It is carried out as follows: the parts of the product are folded together with the front side inward. Along the marked lines, with soft threads (preferably cotton), running stitches are laid with a distance of 0.3-1 cm from each other.
It differs from a simple running stitch in that the thread is not tightened, but loops are made 1-1.5 cm high, depending on how thick the fabric is.
After basting the entire contour, the details of the product are moved apart, and the stretched threads are cut in the middle.

4. Transferable seam - a kind of basting, used for basting parts with curly cuts and for adjusting the pattern.
A part with a bent cut is placed on the front side of another part, basted and fastened with pins. Both details are swept away. The needle is removed from the fabric on the lower part at the fold of the upper part, 2-3 threads are drawn on it at the fold of the upper part.
The distance between the injections is 0.2-0.5 cm. The details are again swept from the wrong side along the stitches and stitched.

5. To process the edge of parts (frills, flounces, etc.) use round the seam.
The section is bent to the wrong side by 0.3-0.5 cm, 2-3 threads of fabric are gathered near the folded section and 2-3 threads at the fold.
It is not necessary to tighten the thread after each stitch; to speed up work, you can do this after 30-45 stitches. The density of the seam is 3 stitches per 1 cm.

6. Stachnoy seam - resembles a machine line.
It is used for permanent connection of parts in those places where machine stitching is not possible, or in those cases when it is required to obtain a seam of increased extensibility.
There is no space between stitches. Sew from top to bottom. The distance between the inlet and outlet of the needle is 0.1-0.7 cm. An injection is made at the exit point of the previous stitch. Requires a fairly experienced hand.

7. Seam "by the needle"(marking).
Perform the same as stitching, but leave a distance between the stitches. A needle prick is made at half the distance between the input and output of the previous stitch.

8. overcasting the seam serves to prevent fraying at the edges of the fabric.

There are several types of overcast seam:
— oblique, is done over the edge. From bottom to top, the line is laid from right to left. For 1 cm - 2-3 stitches.
— cruciform, looks like an oblique. As in oblique, the needle is inserted from top to bottom, but only in two directions. The thread is not opened and the product is not rotated.
— Looped. They process sections in loose tissues. The needle is inserted from top to bottom, the thread of the previous stitch lies under the needle. The line is laid from left to right.
Seam density 2-3 stitches 0.4-0.6 cm long per 1 cm of fabric.

9. Hemming a seam is used to hem the edge of a part of a product.
In order to use this seam, you need to prepare a cut of the product. First, the entire allowance for the hem is folded, and basted at a distance of 0.5-1 cm from the fold with a running seam. Then the already hemmed section is folded over again by 0.5-1 cm and tacked at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the second fold. The cut is ironed.

There are several types of hem stitches:
— Simple (open). At the fold, 2-3 threads of the main part are captured with a needle, pierced under the fold and the needle is pulled out from the other side (pushed).

— Secret. The hem allowance is folded to the front side, 0.2 cm of the folded cut remains on the wrong side. The thread is fixed in the allowance at the hem of the product, a needle is inserted under the fold of the hemmed edge, and at the exit, at least 2-3 threads of the main product are picked up.
The line goes from right to left, the thread is not tightened tightly. For 1 cm of fabric, 2-3 stitches are enough.

— Figured or cruciform.
It is used when using dense non-flowing fabrics (piqué, covercode, tartan, rep, tweed, calico and others). Can also be used as a finishing seam.
When sewing, the needle is driven from left to right and from bottom to top. The cut is left open, the fabric is folded only to the allowance. The first injection is made into the main fabric near the cut, 2-3 threads are drawn onto the needle so as not to pierce the front side! The second shot for the hem allowance. 2-3 stitches are enough for 1 cm of fabric, stitch length is 04-07 cm.

10. In addition to those seams that serve utilitarian purposes: fixing, basting, etc., there are also seams that help make the finished thing more attractive - finishing seams.
The most common ones looped, tambour, herringbone, cross, goat-cross, hemstitch, "nun" (triangle).

Finishing seams. a - looped, b - tambour, c - herringbone, d - cross, d - goat-cross, e - hemstitch, g - "nun".

I want to explain one seam - "nun", all the rest are simpler in execution and are shown in the figure.

"Nun" fix folds, pockets, lines, cuts. The outline of an equilateral triangle is applied with a basting. The first stitch is made from one corner at the base of the triangle to its top, the second - from the top to the third corner, the next - from the third corner to the first next to the original exact seam, and so on.
They try to keep the thread taut everywhere equally. Gradually the entire triangle is filled.
For strength, a piece of cushioning fabric is sewn from the inside.

That's practically the whole theory about hand seams. You can learn about machine seams from the article "". Do not miss!

From time to time it is good to change the type of activity. Try your hand at knitting, for example! Everything you need can be found on this site:
1001 patterns - a complete catalog of patterns for knitting and crochet. Knitted patterns for all ages. Knitted fashion for full.

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