Do-it-yourself embroidery without a frame. How to insert embroidery into a frame: original ideas for creativity and master classes on designing work

Embroidery is a fascinating and, most often, not difficult activity. In each picture, from the smallest to the largest work of art, a person puts a piece of his soul, so each work is valuable in its own way. However, in order to decorate your house with a finished picture or give it to someone, just finishing the embroidery is not enough. You need a frame, but not everyone knows how to arrange it. In this article, you will learn how to insert your own embroidery into a frame with your own hands quickly and easily.

How to insert embroidery into a frame with preparation in a master class

1) Before you insert a picture into a frame, you need to iron it from the wrong side.

2) If there is dirt on the fabric, it is worth washing the work with baby soap in cool water.

3) Then you need to choose the fabric for the backing. You can take ordinary cardboard. If desired, you can glue the embroidery using adhesive interlining, choosing a color that matches the main color of the embroidery. It is glued with an iron (you need to put it under the embroidery and iron it).

What should be the ideal frame for your work?

In order for the picture to look organic, you need to take into account the theme of the work. Wooden frames are well suited for still lifes, images of animals, historical subjects. For marine scenes, a plastic frame is more suitable; you can decorate it with shells.

The shape of the frame is just as important. Frames that repeat the silhouettes of images look good. In addition, frames can be square, rectangular, round or oval.

Then you need to choose a size. In any case, the frame should not touch the edges of the image. For small compositions, a large indent (more than 2 cm) will be appropriate.

The color should match the shades of the image, or you can choose a classic option, for example, in the tone of natural wood or gold.

It is advisable to use a frame with glass, so the picture will be much easier to care for, and the colors of the threads will not fade over time. The main thing is to leave an indent between the glass and the canvas. The exceptions are paintings embroidered with beads and glass beads, they will not look under glass.

A passe-partout is optional, but in many cases it can be used to accentuate a painting and smooth out flaws in the color, shape, and size of the frame if you haven't found the perfect fit. In tone, the passe-partout should be slightly lighter than the frame, or as close as possible to the main tone of the embroidery.

In what ways can you stretch embroidery:

The embroidery can be stretched and fastened with ordinary buttons on a piece of plywood or chipboard.
You can stretch the embroidery with glue. Glue can only be applied along the contour of the embroidery! Otherwise, you can just spoil the work.
You can stretch the embroidery using threads. Behind should be at least half a 2-3 cm of matter. The embroidery does not need to be stretched too much, and it is also important to monitor the offsets by turning it over to the front side.

You can secure the embroidery with double-sided tape. This is the easiest way and it is convenient in that you can redo the mount several times without damaging anything.

Double-sided tape can be used to secure the work on the reverse side.

You can fasten the embroidery with stitching. In a piece of plywood or chipboard, you first need to drill or sew holes at a distance of about 1 cm. Next, sew with a “forward needle” seam.

Making a frame for embroidery from a hoop quickly and easily

An ordinary hoop can be turned into an original frame in the Provence style.

For work you will need:

embroidery
regular round or oval plastic hoop
scissors
thread and needle
pins
fabric or canvas

We insert embroidery into the hoop, placing an additional thin fabric (it is possible without it).

Cut off the fabric or canvas 1.5-2 cm from the edge of the hoop. We pass along the edge of the fabric with a seam forward with a needle and tighten the seam. We mask the wrapped fabric from the inside by sewing a piece of fabric with a blind seam according to the size and shape of the work. We decorate the frame, if desired, with beads or rhinestones (glue with glue "moment" or PVA).

How to make embroidery in a baguette with your own hands?

This design may seem complicated and expensive, but it is not.

For work you will need:

embroidery
Frame
transparent glue moment (or double-sided tape)
Ruler and pencil
paper
scissors
floral felt or fabric

The photo frame must be disassembled and the embroidery should be glued onto the cardboard with glue or adhesive tape (only the border of the canvas is glued). To make a passe-partout, cut out a frame from paper according to the size of the embroidery. Next, from felt or fabric, cut out frames 1.5-2 cm larger than paper. We glue them, bend the indents under the paper. Glue on the base with embroidery.

It is better to use felt in several layers, as it is thin, and layering favorably emphasizes the volume.

It is possible to make a passport simply from bright cardboard or velvet paper.

Put the glass on top and insert it into the frame. The frame can be varnished or decorated with beads.

Video on the topic of the article

For those who want to learn new original ideas for designing work, we present a selection of video master classes:

Do you have an embroidery kit from China?

My video tutorial

Join now!

canvas calculator

Question: how to arrange cross-stitch stands in front of the embroiderer either at the beginning of work or at the end. But this question remains unchanged. Many people prefer to take the embroidery to a framing workshop, where professionals will take care of giving the embroidered work a finished look. But sometimes you can arrange embroidery in a frame on one's own. I would like to note that in the three years I have been passionate about cross-stitching, I have not framed any of my work in a baguette. The reasons are simple, and I have already written about them, in general, ...

Personally, I have a question about the design of an embroidered picture usually appears at the final stage of embroidery. And it is formed until the very end of work with canvas and floss. Then the formulated idea is transferred to the spouse, who knows how to implement it very successfully.

It was with his help that I created my next lesson on the topic - how to arrange embroidery in a frame?

Usually we buy a ready-made photo frame, which, in terms of color and style, will match the colors used in the work. After that, you need to decide whether there will be a passe-partout in your picture. This time we were lucky, because the picture inserted into the frame fit us perfectly as a passe-partout and we didn’t have to invent anything.

It must be remembered that the finished embroidery must be washed and ironed before being decorated. After that, we dismantled the frame and tried on a passe-partout: it is important to place the picture in the center.

After trying on, we take a blank sheet of paper and put a passe-partout blank on top of it: this way you can accurately compare the dimensions. We put this white sheet of paper under the canvas in a frame so that the cells “glow” white, not gray. We draw outer lines under the ruler, along which the “background” of the size we need will be cut off.

Then, along the printed lines, we cut out a window in the passe-partout.

Of course, it would be nice to have a special machine for cutting the passe-partout, but we use improvised materials. In this case, this is a sharply sharpened knife, although it would be more convenient to take an ordinary clerical knife with a new blade. It just wasn't available...

We try to act carefully so that the edges come out even, and so that the mat itself does not wrinkle.

We again try on the cut-out passe-partout for embroidery, but from the front side.

We place the picture in the center of the window, then with light pressure we mark the outer edges of the passe-partout on the canvas. You can draw a line under the ruler to make it easier to cut.

Let's start trimming the canvas. Cut off the excess fabric. Although for large works it is better not to cut the edges of the canvas, but, having covered the cardboard with canvas, try to stretch the fabric over the cardboard as much as possible with basting stitches so that the work looks even.

Small works, in general, can not be pulled. The main thing is to iron well.

We continue to make out the embroidery in the frame and proceed to the assembly.

We put a passe-partout in the frame on the glass, then the embroidery face down, then the white square that we cut out at the very beginning - the so-called background.

From above we press with a cardboard "back".

We bend metal clips, and everything is ours framed embroidery !

In our opinion, it turned out quite nice.

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Instructions for stretching the finished embroidery into a frame

Embroidery is one of the most exciting activities. Whether it's cross-stitch, satin stitch, beadwork, ribbon embroidery or silk embroidery - this type of creativity captivates you seriously and for a long time.

The fact is that learning the basic techniques of embroidering pictures is a fairly simple process. Moreover, for example, cross-stitching has become much simpler since the shops began to sell ready-made kits, in which everything is just like a selection - from a needle to the threads themselves. These kits also often feature a color scheme for simple embroidery.

finished embroidery stretched and framed
It would seem that literally everything is shown there - both how to fasten the thread without a knot, and how to align the embroidery relative to the center. However, it seems so only at first glance. The fact is that such kits do not describe the most important process - the one that begins after embroidery. After you embroider a picture, be it small or large, you will want to hang it on the wall or give it to a loved one in a beautiful frame.

1.

However, often embroiderers do not know how to do this - how to frame the finished embroidery. And I myself literally “on the table” for several years had magnificent embroideries, because I simply did not know how to properly stretch them on the frame.

Materials needed for self-stretching of the finished embroidery
This question became especially relevant for me when I thought about creating a gift in the form of an embroidery of a huge 50x50 cm panel. It was then that I studied all the materials presented and set about developing an optimal plan for stretching the embroidery. During the development process, I came to the following conclusions that will help you in the process of stretching your own embroidery.
Preliminary preparation of embroidery before pulling on the frame

There are a huge number of ways to stretch the embroidery, and therefore, you should first talk about how the embroidery should go through before you insert it into the frame.

If the embroidery becomes dirty during work, it must be washed (in warm water with baby soap), as it will be quite difficult to do it later. In addition, especially if the picture is large, iron it from the wrong side.
Interlining is a non-woven cushioning material. If you prefer to stick the work, it is best to use interlining (possibly glued) for this, to which you will attach the embroidery. The process of working with non-woven fabric is as follows. You must put the embroidery on the interlining and iron it. So you get a more accurate and durable work. Do not forget that the color of the interlining must match the main color of the embroidery. If they do not match, it is better to simply take cardboard as a substrate.

You must purchase a frame that fits your product. The recommendations here are as follows. It is desirable that the frame or baguette be with glass, since removing the embroidery, stretching it and fixing it back is a rather laborious task, especially since the colors of the threads fade over time without it. In terms of tone, the frame should either match the main tone of the product, or be a classic option - for example, it can be painted like wood or gold.
A passe-partout is a piece of cardboard or paper with a hole cut out in its middle for a frame into which an embroidery or picture is inserted. Before deciding on a frame, you need to think about whether you need a passe-partout. Passepartout is a small frame that is located under the baguette. It outlines the product and focuses the attention of the viewer. At home, for a passe-partout, ordinary thick cardboard is used. I recommend always embroidering with a passe-partout, especially if the frame does not quite fit your embroidery size. Even if your product is of an unusual shape - for example, round, and you could not find a frame of a suitable shape, then the passe-partout will correct this shortcoming.
In addition, always remember that before cutting the frame from the inside, you should make notches to bend the frame - this will give your picture volume edges from the inside, and then extension to an angle of 30 degrees). Some people simply stick embroidery on cardboard, but this makes the embroidery lose its sophistication. Although small works can be designed in this way. Passepartout will also prevent your embroidery from touching the glass, which is necessary for the correct perception of the picture. As for the color of the passe-partout, in most cases it should match either the color of the frame (be a little paler than it), or the main color of the painting (differences of 2 tones are allowed).

3.

Basic ways to stretch embroidery

So, if all the preparatory steps have been completed, the embroidery has been washed and ironed (you can additionally starch it), the passe-partout and the frame are ready, you can actually start stretching the embroidery.

Here, oddly enough, there are also a huge number of options. We will consider the most popular ways to stretch embroidery on a frame:

Chipboard or plywood is used as a substrate for stretching the finished embroidery. Stretching the embroidery and fixing it with ordinary buttons.
Here you should use a piece of chipboard or plywood of the right size as the backing for your embroidery. The embroidery is strongly stretched by hand and attached with buttons to the plywood. This method is not very good, since the canvas threads can simply “release” the embroidery over time, it will begin to slide down and sag on the buttons.

Stretching embroidery using glue.
There are a huge number of varieties of embroidery glue on the market, but you need to firmly remember that it is necessary to glue only along the contour of the embroidery in order not to spoil the work.
Glue is a good base, however, once the embroidery is pasted incorrectly, you will not be able to fix anything. It will also be impossible to wash the work. In addition, you need to very accurately measure the amount of glue needed - the excess will simply seep through the canvas onto the mat and this will give the embroidery a sloppy look. For the same purpose, you can use pieces of adhesive interlining around the perimeter of the embroidery.
Stretching finished embroidery with threads A classic way to stretch embroidery using threads.
You must stretch your embroidery on a sheet of chipboard or plywood suitable for this, while at the back there should be free ends of the fabric (canvas) at least 1-2 cm on each side, we will need them to secure the embroidery. In addition, do not forget to take the threads with which the main work will be carried out. To prevent the embroidery from shifting, you can attach it on the end side with pins. Then we sew the right and left edges of the embroidery together with wide stitches from the back of the substrate. Do the same with the top and bottom edges of the embroidery. Do not overtighten the embroidery and always make sure it fits on the front side! The difficulty here lies in the corners of the embroidery - to simplify, you can make an incision and then sew them into an overlap. However, this method is also not ideal, as it is very laborious, and the embroidery often shifts after it is fixed.

Stretching the finished embroidery with double-sided adhesive tape on the front sideA universal way to secure embroidery in all respects using double-sided tape or window tape.
Here, all measurements about the mat and frame remain the same, but the principle of attachment changes. Firstly, we do all the work on the front side, which allows us to immediately see the errors and correct them. Secondly, we can attach the embroidery to the adhesive tape as many times as we like - it will still hold it tightly. In the case of window tape, here you just have to replace the tape if it doesn’t work out the first time. For beginners, this method is especially convenient for its simplicity. There is practically nothing to mark up here, since everything is visible to the eye. In addition, you can use arbitrarily large scotch tape, the main thing is that it should be located under the passe-partout. So, we stick double-sided tape on the front side under the mat, on all four sides, then stretch the embroidery and glue it. Ready!

Modification - fixing the embroidery with double tape on the reverse side.
Another good option for stretching embroidery. Here you stretch the embroidery on the chipboard, while attaching pins to the embroidery on the side. Then turn the embroidery on the reverse side, fix it with adhesive tape in the same way as we previously considered in the front case. However, the corners here will have to be cut so that they are not visible from the front side. After this work is done, the pins should be removed. This method is also quite simple, it is suitable for both experienced needlewomen and beginner embroiderers.

9.

Stretching the finished embroidery with double-sided tape on the reverse side Notching the corners of the canvas while stretching the embroidery with double-sided tape on the reverse side
Stretching embroidery using the "stitching" method.
This method requires real male power. Along the perimeter of plywood or chipboard at a distance of 1 centimeter, you should drill small holes or make punctures with an awl, through which you will “stitch” your embroidery with a thread. At the same time, embroidery will forever remain motionless and will delight you for many years. When stitching, use a “needle forward” seam. In this embodiment, the corners are first fixed so that they do not move out. This is the method I prefer to use, as it is quite fast and does not require much effort.

13.

When your embroidery is stretched, all you have to do is assemble it - down the glass and frame, then passe-partout, and then embroidery on chipboard. You press the entire structure with metal clips on the side of the embroidery. And now it is ready - you can hang it in the room or give it to relatives and friends. It does not matter at all, because such a long and painstaking work will delight anyone who looks at it!

How to frame embroidery. Walkthrough.

Perhaps you are going to embroider for the first time. Or you had a bad experience and decided not to repeat the mistakes. If so, then you have found what you need. This article provides a step-by-step guide, proven by years of experience in designing the same embroideries as yours. So, get comfortable and let's get started!

Step 1. Preparing embroidery for decoration

Take a close look at your embroidery. Works are embroidered for a long time and, despite all efforts, embroidery sometimes turns out to be dirty. Thread embroidery is necessary hand wash with chlorine-free products, this will refresh the picture and clean up the canvas. Wet the wet embroidery, wrap it in a soft towel, straighten it, and lay it out to dry in a horizontal position.

Carefully! Embroidery with beads, ribbons, sequins, rhinestones or mixed media cannot be washed!

Iron the embroidery from the wrong side through a damp cloth, on a soft substrate. In order for your work to keep its shape better, it can be starch from the wrong side, best with starch from a can. Now the embroidery with threads is fully prepared for framing.

Step 2. We decide on the design: a frame with a passe-partout or without a passe-partout?

Each embroidery is made in a specific technique, has its own plot, size, texture and color. Through these characteristics, the embroidered work sets the requirements for its design, which must be taken into account when selecting a frame and passe-partout.

Most often, we recommend framing with a passe-partout. Passepartout is not just a colored background between embroidery and a frame. Passepartout protects embroidery from dust, moisture and fading, protects it from contact with glass and decorates it. Along with the classic passe-partout design with a rectangular window, there are many other embroidery design techniques.

Here are some techniques for decorating a passe-partout that add sophistication and uniqueness to the design:

If the work is very large, or you do not want to increase its size, a design without a passe-partout will do. To protect against contact with glass, an invisible insert is used between the glass and the frame.

The selection of a baguette for the frame is also a delicate matter. Here you need taste, experience and knowledge. The color, profile, ornament and width of the baguette are selected depending on the size, color, theme and technique of embroidery.

Step 3. Choose glass

Sometimes it's a pity to hide voluminous crosses, stitches, beads and ribbons under glass. However, we strongly recommend the use of glass. And that's why. Firstly, over time, your work will become dusty and it will be very difficult to clean it. Secondly, no matter how bright the colors are, the threads will lose their juicy color over time. This will happen fairly quickly if the embroidery is exposed to bright sunlight or light from halogen lamps. Thirdly, the stretch will "walk" under the influence of humidity fluctuations. Bottom line: within a short period of time, embroidery will lose its original appearance.

Normal art glass very transparent and virtually no distortion. However, it glares, and reflections of what is happening around are clearly visible on it. The main advantage of baguette glass is the economical price.

Glareless glass gives the impression that there is simply no glass. An additional plus is a high degree of protection against fading (70% UV protection against 48% for ordinary glass). This is the best glass for embroidering, especially on black canvas. It is verified that the black background under the glass practically turns into a mirror. Non-reflective glass costs more than ordinary glass, but it's worth it. Using non-reflective glass, you will admire the decorated embroidery, not reflections.

Step 4. Choose a framing workshop

Registration in a baguette workshop has many advantages. The tension on the heel requires special skills, especially if the embroidery is slightly skewed. It is difficult to find a frame with glass in a store that is suitable in size and color. Improvised materials for the passe-partout and backdrop can harm the embroidery. For example, a backdrop cut from ordinary cardboard or, God forbid, corrugated cardboard for packaging, releases polyester resins over time. They destroy the fabric and change color, and yellow spots may appear on the embroidery.

Today, many framing workshops, including ours, provide services remotely, so you can use really first-class services. How to properly prepare the embroidery for sending to the framing workshop, we told earlier.

Step 5. Planning a budget

After reviewing the work of baguettes and deciding on design preferences (classic, exclusive), decide how much you plan to spend. After all, you can choose the design using a different baguette, passe-partout and glass. The price depends on many factors, primarily on the quality of materials.

The most expensive design materials are used in conservation design. Conservation design provides a high level of protection for embroidery from fading and pollution in the atmosphere for up to 50 years. The design uses conservation cardboard for the passe-partout and backdrop, conservation methods of stretching the backdrop, as well as non-reflective museum glass with an UV protection factor of 84%.

Making embroidery at an economical price improves it visually and provides protection from the influence of harmful environmental factors for up to 5 years. In the frame, an inexpensive baguette, standard quality design materials and ordinary baguette glass are used.

The second factor that greatly affects the price is the exclusivity of the design. To create a unique passe-partout and frame, highly qualified craftsmen perform a large number of manual operations. However, any embroidered work in the "exclusive" design looks unusual and admires everyone who sees it.

You can get acquainted with the cost of embroidery design in our workshop by the link.

It's time to take stock, dear craftswomen! Now you know what you need to do to formalize your work with a guarantee of success. The main thing is to approach with knowledge of the matter. We wish you that the embroidery in the design will find originality and delight you every day!

How to insert embroidery into a frame: original ideas for creativity and master classes on designing work

Embroidery is a fascinating and, most often, not difficult activity. In each picture, from the smallest to the largest work of art, a person puts a piece of his soul, so each work is valuable in its own way. However, in order to decorate your house with a finished picture or give it to someone, just finishing the embroidery is not enough. You need a frame, but not everyone knows how to arrange it. In this article, you will learn how to insert embroidery into a frame with your own hands quickly and easily.

How to prepare embroidery

1) Before you insert a picture into a frame, you need to iron it from the wrong side.

2) If there is dirt on the fabric, it is worth washing the work with baby soap in cool water.

What should be the ideal frame for your work

The shape of the frame is just as important. Frames that repeat the silhouettes of images look good. In addition, frames can be square, rectangular, round or oval.

Then you need to choose a size. In any case, the frame should not touch the edges of the image. For small compositions, a large indent (more than 2 cm) will be appropriate.

The color should match the shades of the image, or you can choose a classic option, for example, in the tone of natural wood or gold.

How to stretch embroidery

The embroidery can be stretched and fastened with ordinary buttons on a piece of plywood or chipboard.
You can stretch the embroidery with glue. Glue can only be applied along the contour of the embroidery! Otherwise, you can just spoil the work.
You can stretch the embroidery using threads. Behind should be at least half a 2-3 cm of matter. The embroidery does not need to be stretched too much, and it is also important to monitor the offsets by turning it over to the front side.

You can secure the embroidery with double-sided tape. This is the easiest way and it is convenient in that you can redo the mount several times without damaging anything.

Double-sided tape can be used to secure the work on the reverse side.

You can fasten the embroidery with stitching. In a piece of plywood or chipboard, you first need to drill or sew holes at a distance of about 1 cm. Next, sew with a “forward needle” seam.

Making a frame for embroidery from a hoop

An ordinary hoop can be turned into an original frame in the Provence style.

For work you will need:

embroidery
regular round or oval plastic hoop
scissors
thread and needle
pins
fabric or canvas

We insert embroidery into the hoop, placing an additional thin fabric (it is possible without it).

How to make embroidery in a baguette with your own hands

This design may seem complicated and expensive, but it is not.

For work you will need:

embroidery
Frame
transparent glue moment (or double-sided tape)
Ruler and pencil
paper
scissors
floral felt or fabric

It is better to use felt in several layers, as it is thin, and layering favorably emphasizes the volume.

It is possible to make a passport simply from bright cardboard or velvet paper.

Put the glass on top and insert it into the frame. The frame can be varnished or decorated with beads.

Video on the topic of the article

For those who want to learn new original ideas for designing work, we present a selection of video master classes:

How to insert embroidery into a frame yourself: a step-by-step guide

Embroidery is the most ancient art of all times and peoples. It came to us from a distant era of primitive culture of people. In our time, there are many types of embroidery, whether cross stitch or satin stitch, also embroider with ribbons and beads. The embroidery process itself is not difficult, especially since now kits are sold in stores, in which there are ready-made color schemes, and even threads with needles. However, despite the fact that everything is described in such kits, up to how to align the embroidery or fasten the thread without a knot, there is no main thing - how to insert the finished work into a frame.

Any master will want to hang his work on his wall or give it to someone. But more often than not, embroiderers do not know how to frame their work beautifully.

This article presents several ways to design work.

How to insert embroidery into a frame: preparatory stage

If the work gets dirty during the embroidery process, it must be washed in soapy water, because after framing it will be almost impossible to do so. Next, put interlining from the inside and iron the picture. Thus, the work will be neat and durable. It is also worth paying attention that the color of the interlining must match the color of the product. You can also use thick cardboard as a substrate.

The frame must be purchased according to the size of the product itself and it is desirable that it be with glass. Over time, the threads may lose their brightness, and the work will need to be washed often, and the glass will well protect the product from dust.

In terms of tone and design, the frame should be in harmony with the work itself, but this is already a personal matter. It can be classic, painted wood or gold. Although in specialized stores you can find a huge selection of frames or baguettes.

You can also use a passe-partout in your work. This is a small frame, in the center of which there is a cut out hole according to the size of the embroidery. For a passe-partout, you can use ordinary cardboard, thick paper or plain wallpaper. It focuses the viewer's attention on the product. If we talk about color, then the passe-partout should match the base color of the product itself or the color of the frame.

Now let's look at the most famous ways to insert embroidery into a frame. When all the preparatory work is done, the product is washed and ironed, the frame is prepared, you can proceed to the main part of the work.

Stretching and pinning embroidery with push pins

They take plywood or chipboard as a basis and, pulling the embroidery strongly, fix it with buttons. This option is not very good, because over time, the embroidery can simply “disperse” and sag on the buttons.

Stretching embroidery with threads

This design method is the most common. For work, you will also need a sheet of plywood or chipboard. It is necessary to stretch the product onto the sheet, leaving the free edges of the canvas somewhere around 1-2 cm around the perimeter in order to fix the product.

Secure the embroidery with pins so that it does not slip. On the reverse side of the substrate, the left and right edges must be sewn with large stitches. We carry out the same manipulations with the upper and lower edges. When working, be sure to watch the fit of the embroidery on the front side.

But this way of stretching is not good enough, because. even when pinning the embroidery, it can still move at the end of the work.

How to stretch embroidery with double-sided tape

Double-sided or window tape is required for operation.

The design is universal in that the whole process is carried out on the front side, and this provides an opportunity to see all the flaws. Embroidery can be attached to the adhesive tape several times - it will still hold it tightly. When working with window tape, you just need to replace the tape if you can’t attach it right away.

This method is very easy for beginners, because. all flaws in the work are visible, no markings are required. You can use pieces of adhesive tape repeatedly, you just need to make sure that it is under the passport. Double-sided adhesive tape is glued under the passport from the front side around the perimeter. At the end, the embroidery is stretched and glued. Work is ready!

Making a product using the "stitching" method

This method is actually not easy. This is where masculinity is needed. Taking a sheet of chipboard or plywood in size, it is necessary to drill small holes around the perimeter at a distance of 1 cm or use an awl. With a thread through these holes, it is necessary, as it were, to “stitch” the embroidery.

First you need to fix the corners of the work so that the embroidery does not slip. It is necessary to stitch the product “forward with a needle”. In the future, such work will be firmly fixed and will last a long time.

As practice has shown, this method is the fastest and most reliable. After the embroidery is fixed, it remains to assemble the work - put the glass and frame down, and the embroidery itself on the substrate and clamp this design on the sides with metal clamps.

After all the work done, the finished decorated product can be placed on the wall or surprise relatives and friends with a gift. But it does not matter at all, because such a long and laborious work will please everyone!

The article was written based on materials from the sites: vseovyshivke.ru, www.liveinternet.ru, karmin.pro, sdelala-sama.ru, webdiana.ru.

Miniature embroideries or “resting places,” as the embroiderers themselves call them, often run the risk of being unformed because spending money on a framing workshop in this case is not always justified, and it’s not always possible to make embroidery with your own hands. Most often, embroidered miniatures are used for sewing decorative pillows, small bags, notebook covers, etc. But to make it beautiful, sewing skills are most often needed.

I will show you the simplest way to design embroidery, in which you practically do not need to sew!

I wanted to decorate a small lighthouse from Lanarte in the form of a small pendant and that's it. For a long time I twisted different options in my head, but when the idea came to make a frame-porthole, I no longer doubted that I would do just that)

You are sailing on a ship and you see from the porthole a lighthouse that turned out to be nearby ... Or you are a lost wanderer who has finally found a saving shore !!!

Both of these ideas formed the basis of the design and, by the way, my boys liked (the decorated lighthouse now “lives” in their nursery))

Materials and tools

The process of creating such a homemade frame is very simple (although I didn’t think of it right away, but I was happy when I did it)) The only thing that can make the process a little more difficult is the availability of the necessary materials:

embroidered miniature
2-3 types of cotton fabric (I have Peppy fabrics)
dense adhesive lining material (I have Decovil)

Decovil- adhesive interlining or smoothed interlining, giving rigidity. It is elastic, does not tear, does not crumble, it is easy to sew on it on a typewriter. Products reinforced with Dekovil perfectly keep their shape. I order it in the My Threads online store.

thin adhesive double-sided tape (gossamer)
punch tongs (if done very carefully, you can use an awl)
tongs for installing blocks (metal circles, in other words - eyelets)
thread,

Overview of pliers for installing eyelets (blocks)

I want to make a reservation right away that if you do not plan to make holes around the entire perimeter of the frame, then you will not need punch tongs and tongs for installing blocks!

I think many of you have seen examples when eyelets are used in the applied design of embroidery.

It is very convenient and beautiful when the hole is decorated with a neat metal ring. Products with eyelets look dignified, professional, as if they were made in an atelier or bought in a store.

For a long time I was one of the needlewomen who dreamed of a magical tool that would allow me to independently make holes with eyelets. What stopped me was that I did not know which instrument to purchase. As a result, the choice fell on the company Micron.

I liked the fact that these tongs are equipped with a hole punch (i.e., you don’t need to buy punch tongs separately!), And also 100 eyelets (in other words, blocks) are included in the kit. Bought it from the online store "Leonardo".

After installing my first eyelet, I stopped being afraid) A brief instruction on the package helps to easily cope with the task. Now I am sure that these tongs are perfect for home use! Next, I will show them directly in the work, so that you do not have any fears and doubts.

Making embroidery in a round frame

First determine the size and cut out the embroidery in a circle. The diameter of my circle with embroidery is 9 cm.

Based on the size of the embroidery, all other dimensions of the porthole frame are calculated.

Cutting parts, dimensions, drawings

The easiest way to start is by cutting parts from Dekovil. Here we do not make allowances.

So, from Dekovil we cut out one large circle of the size you want to end up with your frame. My large circle is 15 cm in diameter.

Then we cut out the "bagel". It should be of such a size that it overlaps the junction of the circle with embroidery and the fabric.

Here the inner diameter of the "donut" = 8 cm (per 1 cm< диаметра вышивки).
The outer diameter of the "donut" = 11 cm (2 cm > the diameter of the circle with embroidery).
The thickness of the "donut" with such dimensions is obtained = 1.5 cm.

We will need only 2 parts from Dekovil to create a frame:

Then, in the circle that will be on the front side of the frame, I cut a hole with a diameter of 9 cm.

Keep in mind that the hole in the large circle needs to be exactly the same size as the embroidery circle! Because we will insert the embroidery into this hole.

It remains to cut out another small “donut” from the fabric (for it I use the 3rd color of the fabric).

When cutting this “donut” from the fabric, you need to make large allowances: 1 cm deep and out. That is, we reduce the inner diameter by 2 cm, and increase the outer diameter by 2 cm.

We take the dimensions of the "donut" from Dekovil as a basis.
Its inner diameter is 8 cm, which means we cut out a circle with an inner diameter of 6 cm from the fabric.
Its outer diameter is 11 cm, which means we cut out a circle with an outer diameter of 13 cm from the fabric.

Frame assembly

Lay the Dekovil circle on top of the fabric circle and trace around it with a marker.

This is how we mark the seam allowances:

We impose large circles of fabric on top of each other with the right sides inward:

We lay a machine line, wash off the marker, iron the workpiece and go along the edge with scalloped scissors (you can make notches with ordinary scissors).

We turn the workpiece:

We insert a circle of Dekovil inside the fabric blanks.

The adhesive side (it is slightly shiny) should be in front of us, that is, in this very window!

We straighten the Dekovil circle well inside the fabric blank, and then, through a dry gauze, with an iron in the steaming mode, glue to the Dekovil first a “donut” made of fabric, and then embroidery:

As you can see, the embroidery fits perfectly into the hole of the "donut":

Fabric and embroidery adhered securely to Dekovil

Now we take out the tongs if you want to add eyelets to your frame (maybe you want to make a pendant, then you should definitely make 1 eyelet on top). We select the color of the blocks (there are gold, silver and black in the kit).

We take a ruler and a marker for marking and mark the points where you plan to make holes. I divided the circle into 8 equal parts.

We install the tongs evenly at the marked point:

We press hard (you can do it several times, but without shifting!) And we get an imprint on the front side:

And from the inside:

The dekovil is dense, so the through hole did not work out, but a slight pressure of the metal hook quickly solved this problem:

We cut off the extra villi around the hole with scissors:

We take a block and insert it into the hole:

From the inside it looks like this:

We clamp the handle of the tongs, and the block closes!

Do not press too hard on the block, because the metal is soft and deforms from the strongest pressure. The block will turn out to be flattened and it will be quite difficult to get it out of the hole.

On the front side, everything is also very nice and neat:

Thus, make all the holes that you planned. I have 8 of them:

Back view

The main part of the work has been done, it remains to sew a small “donut” on top, which will cover the cut of the embroidery and give the porthole more realism.

"Bagel" from Dekovil, glue side down, lay on the "bagel" of fabric:

With an iron in the steaming mode, through gauze, with gentle translational movements, glue the “donut” to the fabric. If you want this ring to turn out a little more voluminous, then at this stage you can glue 2 “donuts” from Dekovil:

Allowances can be ironed on Dekovil:

But it's safer to sew them:

Exactly in the middle of the entire frame, we install the newly made “donut”, fix it with pins.

And sew from the outer edge with a hidden seam.

I also tried to sew the inside, but it's difficult. Then I took a thin narrow glue web, put it under the “donut” and glued it through gauze with an iron. It stuck very easily and securely, thereby greatly simplifying the process.

I really like the result, and besides, the process was not tiring)

Additional decor

You can stop there, tie a braid or twine to the upper hole and hang the pendant wherever your heart desires. But I wanted to add a little more decoration.

I painted the wooden anchor blank with acrylic paints, covered it with one layer of acrylic.

After going through the laces and ribbons, she stopped at the twine. She twisted a twisted cord out of it, threaded it through the holes back and forth, until she thought of tying the most ordinary knots and wrapping the anchor with it so that it would not move. On this I was completely satisfied with the result and calmed down)

In this way, you can decorate miniatures embroidered for Easter (just instead of a circle, make blanks in the shape of an egg). You can decorate embroidered flowers and berries without making 8 holes for eyelets, but limit yourself to only one.

I needed a nautical-style decoration, and imitation of the porthole turned out to be a great idea. I hope you like the idea and implementation)

Categories ,

Embroidery- the oldest type of needlework. But it’s not enough to embroider the picture itself, you also need to make sure that it becomes an excellent decoration for your home.

Do-it-yourself framed embroidery is no less interesting than the process of creating a handmade picture.

Features of the frame for embroidery

The general style of housing is one of the most important factors to be guided in such situations. A few other important recommendations will not be superfluous.

The subject matter must be taken into account. Still lifes, animals, historical scenes look perfect in wooden frames. Plastic products must be made for marine images. Additionally, you can decorate with shells. A cardboard frame is a good addition for children's drawings.
You should not forget about the shape of the product either. It depends on embroidery directly. It is good if the silhouette completely repeats the composition. The shape of the frame is allowed round, square, rectangular, oval.
It is important to correctly select the size of the frame when designing. An indent of more than two centimeters is a good solution for small compositions. The frame should not touch the edges of the image.
The color scheme should correspond to the shades prevailing in the image itself.

Passe-partout design

It is necessary to stretch the embroidery on a passe-partout with your own hands before placing it in a frame. It is enough to use a simple cardboard and cut it to the size of the picture. Lay the embroidery face down on a flat surface. We place the cardboard base in the center.

We bend the edges of the embroidery with our own hands onto the base. We tighten the opposite edges of the fabric so that the material lies flat on the surface of the base. It remains to place the product inside the frame. From the wrong side, we close everything with a plywood sheet. Small nails will help secure the entire structure. Accuracy and caution are required, otherwise the passe-partout may be damaged.

Sometimes the cardboard is left visible. For the entire composition, it becomes the background. In this case, colored cardboard is used. We cut out the silhouette according to the size of the picture with our own hands in the middle of the cardboard base. On top of the embroidery itself, we lay the resulting cardboard frame.

Mandatory nuances

Pictures in a frame are located strictly in the center, avoid distortions in any direction.

A good option would be to use glass to decorate the frame with your own hands. It protects the product from dust and dirt. Glass will help keep the richness of colors from fading.

It is important to leave a small distance between the picture and the glass so that the embroidered image does not deform.

We glue a frame made of wood, chipboard

Docking curly profiles in the "mustache" is one of the most important steps that must be done scrupulously.

The edges of the part are cut with their own hands at an angle of 45 degrees.
It is necessary to use special clamps, then the product will become more durable.

There are several ways to glue wooden frames.

Corner connection with clamps. The method is not without certain drawbacks. Not always and not everyone has the right tool.
The second option did not receive wide distribution. Use rubber tape to connect the parts. The tape itself is tied with a loop. Some skill is required to successfully complete these activities. It is important to observe the accuracy of the angle when sawing the ends.

Detailed description

Thick plywood or chipboard - an ideal option that will help to make and arrange a flat area without deviations in size and geometry. We use self-tapping screws to fix the support bars, they are fixed along the edges.

Relative to each other, the bars are located at an angle of 90 degrees. A metal square will help to achieve maximum accuracy in work.

Next, we take the prepared parts, file the ends. We apply glue on them corresponding to the workpiece, most often it is PVA carpentry glue. Having connected the corners of the frame, we tighten the structure with clamps. The corners of the frames should be tightened tightly, without shifts in different directions, make sure that the structure is horizontal. Clamps are removed after the glue has completely dried, usually it takes about a day.

Rubber band and rope

We create a base with four bars, they play the role of the base. In the previous case, we needed only two such details.

The rubber band on the inside will tighten the corners of the frame. The use of a cable or rope is allowed.

Pulling corners with one bolt is a classic option. We install stop corners on 4 rails. Creating the structure for tightening is the most difficult moment. This construction can be used later, when other frames are created.

Skirting board frame

It is easy to do without expensive materials and special skills if you need to design this option.

For work you will need:

Line with a marker.
Substance with a coloring effect.
Miter box.
Stationery knife.
adhesive solution. Without it, all the details cannot be glued together. An excellent option is the material with which the ceiling tiles are glued.
Plinth. Polystyrene or foam.

It is necessary to carefully measure the embroidery itself in order to make a frame that is ideal in size. A ruler and a marker will help to apply the necessary dimensions to the work surfaces. It is necessary to put all the parts together before you start gluing. The ends are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, the miter box provides maximum accuracy.

What other options are available?

Contacting a framing workshop is the most affordable way, but not at a cost. It is better to ask in advance how the workers pull the embroidery onto the substrate. Stretching from the inside with threads is the most reliable option. The embroidery is placed on a substrate in a suitable color. On the reverse side, the edges are bent. The fabric shrinks evenly, due to which the product is durable. The decor is luxurious.

Most often, workshops prefer to fix the fabric with double-sided tape, since the method described above is quite expensive and time-consuming. From the point of view of tissue safety, the option is not the worst. The main thing is to choose a quality adhesive tape that does not leave marks.

In good workshops, they offer to cover the embroidery with glass. But pictures embroidered with beads should not be closed like that. Then attractive and juicy appearance will be lost. Passe-partout should have the same tone as all embroidery. Sometimes they make a double passe-partout to emphasize certain details.

The color of the baguette should be combined not only with the picture, but also with the surrounding interior.

You can also purchase ready-made frames. Relevant for those who want to follow the path of least resistance. You can also be puzzled by the choice of a passe-partout in stores, if necessary.

Video gallery

Embroidery- one of the most exciting activities. Either cross-stitch, satin stitch embroidery, beadwork, embroidery ribbons or silk embroidery- this type of creativity captivates seriously and for a long time.

The fact is that learning the basic techniques of embroidering pictures is a fairly simple process. Moreover, for example, cross-stitch has been greatly simplified since the stores began selling ready-made kits, in which everything is as if for selection - from the needle to the threads themselves. These kits also often feature a color scheme for simple embroidery.

It would seem that literally everything is shown there - and how to fasten a thread without a knot, And how to align embroidery to the center. However, it seems so only at first glance. The fact is that such sets do not describe the most important process - the one that begins after embroidery. After you embroider a picture, be it small or large, you will want to hang it on the wall or give it to a loved one in a beautiful frame.

However, often embroiderers do not know how to do this - how to arrange finished embroidery in a frame. And I myself literally "in the table" for several years had magnificent embroideries, because I simply did not know how to properly stretch them on the frame.

This question became especially relevant for me when I thought about creating a gift in the form of an embroidery of a huge 50x50 cm panel. It was then that I studied all the materials presented and set about developing an optimal plan for stretching the embroidery. During the development process, I came to the following conclusions that will help you in the process of stretching your own embroidery.

Preliminary preparation of embroidery before pulling on the frame

There is a huge amount ways to stretch embroidery, and therefore, you should first talk about how the embroidery should go through before you insert it into the frame.

Step 1. Cleaning up the embroidery.

If the embroidery becomes dirty during the process, it must be washed (in warm water with baby soap), as it will be quite difficult to do it later. In addition, especially if the picture is large, iron it from the wrong side.

Step 2. Decide on the substrate

If you prefer to glue the work, it is best to use interlining (possibly glued) for this, to which you will attach the embroidery. The process of working with non-woven fabric is as follows. You must put the embroidery on the interlining and iron it. So you get a more accurate and durable work. Do not forget that the color of the interlining must match the main color of the embroidery. If they do not match, it is better to simply take cardboard as a substrate.

Step 3. Choosing a frame.

Step 4. Passepartout.

Before deciding on a frame, you need to consider whether you need a passe-partout.

Passepartout is a small thin frame that is located under the baguette. It outlines the product and focuses the attention of the viewer. At home, for a passe-partout, ordinary thick cardboard is used. I recommend always embroidering with a passe-partout, especially if the frame does not quite fit your embroidery size. Even if your product is of an unusual shape - for example, round, and you could not find a frame of a suitable shape, then the passe-partout will correct this shortcoming.

In addition, always remember that before you cut the frame from the inside, you should make notches to bend the frame - this will give your picture volume edges from the inside, and then extension to an angle of 30 degrees). Some people simply stick embroidery on cardboard, but this makes the embroidery lose its sophistication. Although small works can be designed in this way.

Passepartout will also prevent your embroidery from touching the glass, which is necessary for the correct perception of the picture.

As for the color of the passe-partout, in most cases it should match either the color of the frame (be a little paler than it), or the main color of the painting (differences of 2 tones are allowed).

Basic ways to stretch embroidery

Here, oddly enough, there are also a huge number of options. We will consider the most popular ways to stretch embroidery on a frame:

Method number 1: Stretching embroidery and fastening with ordinary buttons

When pinning embroidery with pins, you should use a piece of chipboard or plywood of the right size as the backing for your embroidery.

The embroidery is first aligned on the substrate and evenly fastened with buttons on one side. For fastening, it is necessary to use not 2-3 buttons, but preferably more, so that when pulled, the embroidery does not sag between the buttons and does not warp.

Then the embroidery is strongly stretched by hand and attached with buttons to the plywood on the other side. Similar operations are done with the sides of the embroidery.

This method is not very good, since the threads of the canvas can eventually stretch out and “release” the embroidery, it will begin to slide down and sag on the buttons.

Method number 2: Stretching embroidery using glue

There are a huge number of varieties of embroidery glue on the market, but you need to firmly remember that it is necessary to glue only along the contour of the embroidery (!) so as not to spoil the work.

Glue is a good base, however, once the embroidery is pasted incorrectly, you will not be able to fix anything. It will also be impossible to wash the work. In addition, you need to very accurately measure the amount of glue needed - the excess will simply seep through the canvas onto the mat and this will give the embroidery a sloppy look. For the same purpose, you can use pieces of adhesive interlining around the perimeter of the embroidery.

Method number 3: Classic. Stretching embroidery using thread

You must stretch your embroidery on a sheet of chipboard or plywood suitable for this, while at the back there should be free ends of the fabric (canvas) at least 2-3 cm on each side, we will need them to secure the embroidery. In addition, do not forget to take the threads with which the main work will be carried out.

To prevent the embroidery from shifting, you can attach it on the end side with pins. Then we sew the right and left edges of the embroidery together with wide stitches from the back of the substrate. Do the same with the top and bottom edges of the embroidery.

Do not overtighten the embroidery and always make sure it fits on the front side! The difficulty here lies in the corners of the embroidery - to simplify, you can make an incision and then sew them into an overlap. However, this method is also not ideal, as it is very laborious, and the embroidery often shifts after it is fixed.

Method number 4: An all-purpose way to secure embroidery using double-sided tape or window tape

Here, all measurements about the mat and frame remain the same, but the principle of attachment changes.

Firstly, we do all the work on the front side, which allows us to immediately see the errors and correct them.

Secondly, we can attach the embroidery to the adhesive tape as many times as we like - it will still hold it tightly. In the case of window tape, here you just have to replace the tape if it doesn’t work out the first time.

For beginners, this method is especially convenient for its simplicity. There is practically nothing to mark up here, since everything is visible to the eye. In addition, you can use arbitrarily large scotch tape, the main thing is that it should be located under the passe-partout.

So, we stick double-sided tape on the front side under the mat, on all four sides, then stretch the embroidery and glue it. Ready!

Method number 5: Modification of the fourth method - fixing the embroidery with double tape on the reverse side

Another good option for stretching embroidery. Here you stretch the embroidery on the chipboard, while attaching pins to the embroidery on the side. Then turn the embroidery on the reverse side, fix it with adhesive tape in the same way as we previously considered in the front case. However, the corners here will have to be cut so that they are not visible from the front side. After this work is done, the pins should be removed.

This method is also quite simple, it is suitable for both experienced needlewomen and beginner embroiderers.

Method number 6: Stretching embroidery using the "stitching" method

This method requires real male power!

Along the perimeter of plywood or chipboard at a distance of 1 centimeter, you should drill small holes or make punctures with an awl, through which you will “stitch” your embroidery with a thread. At the same time, embroidery will forever remain motionless and will delight you for many years.

When stitching, use a needle-forward stitch. In this embodiment, the corners are first fixed so that they do not move out. This is the method I prefer to use, as it is quite fast and does not require much effort from me.

When your embroidery is stretched, all you have to do is assemble it - down the glass and frame, then passe-partout, and then embroidery on chipboard. You press the entire structure with metal clips on the side of the embroidery. And now it is ready - you can hang it in the room or give it to family and friends. It does not matter at all, because such a long and painstaking work will delight anyone who looks at it!

Good luck with your embroidery!

Do-it-yourself embroidery without a frame. How to insert embroidery into a frame: original ideas for creativity and master classes on designing work

How to insert embroidery into a frame with preparation in a master class

What should be the ideal frame for your work?

Making a frame for embroidery from a hoop quickly and easily

How to make embroidery in a baguette with your own hands?

Video on the topic of the article

Do you have an embroidery kit from China?

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Instructions for stretching the finished embroidery into a frame

How to frame embroidery. Walkthrough.

How to insert embroidery into a frame: original ideas for creativity and master classes on designing work

How to prepare embroidery

What should be the ideal frame for your work

How to stretch embroidery

Making a frame for embroidery from a hoop

For work you will need:

How to make embroidery in a baguette with your own hands

For work you will need:

Video on the topic of the article

How to insert embroidery into a frame yourself: a step-by-step guide

How to insert embroidery into a frame: preparatory stage

Stretching and pinning embroidery with push pins

Stretching embroidery with threads

How to stretch embroidery with double-sided tape

Making a product using the "stitching" method

Materials and tools

Overview of pliers for installing eyelets (blocks)

Making embroidery in a round frame

Cutting parts, dimensions, drawings

Frame assembly

Additional decor

Features of the frame for embroidery

Passe-partout design

Mandatory nuances

We glue a frame made of wood, chipboard

Detailed description

Rubber band and rope

Skirting board frame

What other options are available?

Video gallery

Preliminary preparation of embroidery before pulling on the frame

Basic ways to stretch embroidery

Method number 1: Stretching embroidery and fastening with ordinary buttons

Method number 2: Stretching embroidery using glue

Method number 3: Classic. Stretching embroidery using thread

Method number 4: An all-purpose way to secure embroidery using double-sided tape or window tape

Method number 5: Modification of the fourth method - fixing the embroidery with double tape on the reverse side

Method number 6: Stretching embroidery using the "stitching" method