How to hem trousers using a sewing machine. Master class: how to hem trousers using a sewing machine
If you need to hem your trousers and you have even the slightest skill with a needle, there is no need to take them to a tailor. You can completely hem your trousers yourself. And the master class presented below will show you that doing this is as easy as shelling pears. You don't even need a sewing machine for this.
So, I will show you how to hem trousers using the example of a child’s school trousers. As a rule, the jacket remains on time, but the trousers become short during the school year. That's why I always hem my son's school trousers this way. This allows, when the need arises, to quickly lengthen them. In the fall, I fold my trousers to the desired length and hem all the available stock.
I rip out the old seam. The edge of the trousers has already been finished using an overlocker. On the front side, using a ruler, using chalk or a piece of soap, I draw a new hem line.
We do the same with the second half of the trousers. We bend it inside out along the drawn line and secure it with tailor's pins.
All that remains is to hem it. To do this, grab a couple of threads of the main fabric of the trousers with a needle and, continuing to move the needle, grab the overlock seam of the hem. Then we grab a couple of threads and an overlock stitch again. We continue this procedure in a circle.
If you have a sewing machine, you can hem classic trousers at home with your own hands.
To work you will need trouser tape, chalk or a small dry thin soap and a ruler.
In classic men's trousers, the braid is usually sewn only on the back half of the trousers. This is done so that the main fabric of the trousers does not wear out when worn. You can sew the braid around, but over time, after numerous washes, the braid shrinks a lot and the bottom of the trousers looks tight. In order to reduce shrinkage, the braid should be pre-wetted and dried with an iron.
The amount of braid depends on the width of the trouser leg. You need to measure the width of one back half of the trousers along the bottom, multiply by two and add approximately 8 cm for allowances and shrinkage. We select the braid to match the color of the trousers or a tone darker. The threads match the braid.
In order to measure the desired length of trousers, the trousers must be tried on together with suitable shoes and a belt. The length of the trousers is marked in the center (arrow) of the back half, depending on preferences and fashion, from the beginning of the heel and below. We pin the required length with pins.
On a flat surface (floor) or preferably on a table, fold the trousers along the arrows and compare the trouser legs from the waist to the bottom - right and left. This is necessary in order to properly align the trouser legs, because... They are often not the same length, and if measured from the bottom, the legs will be different lengths.
You can pin them together so that while we are marking the hem line, the trouser legs do not move.
We mark the hem line perpendicular to the side seam along the marked length in the fitting. From the marked line downwards we set aside 4-4.5 cm - the width of the hem and draw another line. Along this line we cut off the excess length.
Now you can split the pinned trouser legs and similarly mark the hem line on the other side of the trouser leg.
We will sew the trouser braid only on the back half of the trousers. To do this, mark it with soap so as not to accidentally sew the braid onto the front half. We hem the side and crotch seams at the bottom of the trousers by approximately 5 cm. We apply the trouser tape to the marked hem line of the back half of the trousers. We attach the braid on both sides by 0.1 cm. I remind you that the length of the braid should be equal to the width of the back half, taking into account the width of the seam allowances for the step and side seams. Now you can sew up the seams that we hemmed, as it was originally. But if the trousers are tapered or slightly tapered and the trouser fabric is not stretchy, then you need to stitch these 4-4.5 cm, not according to the mark left from the stitching, but slightly flaring the hem by 0.2-0.4 cm, depending on narrowing. If this is not done, then the finished hemmed trousers may look like they are held together along the hem line with hidden ties.
The cut along the bottom needs to be overlaid, but if you do not have such a special machine, you can do this on a household machine, setting it to a wide and rare zig-zag.
The trouser legs should be swept along the marked hem line, and when sweeping along the back part where the braid is stitched, make a 0.1 cm edge of the braid, that is, it should be visible by 0.1 cm from the face.
Iron it.
Then we hem the width of the hem with hidden ties. To do this, it is better to take a very thin long beaded hand needle. We select the threads to match the color of the main fabric.
We take the bottom of the trouser leg with the wrong side facing us, slightly turn over the edge of the hem processed with a zig-zag or overlock. Using a needle and thread, we grab the hem fabric (one thin thread of the weave of the fabric itself) and here after 5 mm. Lightly grab the fabric of the trouser leg with the needle. You need to do this so that the puncture with the thread you are stitching with is not visible from your face. We repeat this screed every 5 mm. The thicker the ties are, the stronger and more beautiful the hemming of the trousers with hidden ties will be. After this, remove the basting and iron the bottom of the trousers through cotton fabric with a steam iron.
In the near future the material will be supplemented with photographs...
First of all, it is necessary to iron the trouser braid with a hot iron (maximum temperature) with steam so that the braid “shrinks”, that is, decreases slightly in length. If this is not done, in the future it will pull down the bottom of the trousers and this will greatly spoil their appearance.
Then you need to dress the man in trousers and preferably together with the shoes in which these trousers are supposed to be worn. Stand him with his back to you at attention, take tailor's pins and chalk. Then mark the middle of the heel on the shoe and tuck up one or two trouser legs (if your legs are of different lengths ) exactly along this mark, pin it with a pin and draw a chalk line along the fold (in case the pin pops out when removing the trousers).
Take off your pants and put them in front of you.
Now you need to attach the ruler to the chalk mark on the back "arrow" of the trousers and remember the measurement. (I have 1.5 cm.).
Add 1 or 1.5 centimeters to this number and set this figure from the bottom cut upwards on the front “arrow” of the trousers. (I have 1.5 + 1.5 = 3 cm). This is the bevel of the bottom of the front halves of the trousers. Some men do not like trousers with a bevel, in this case, set aside the same number as for the back half and draw a straight line. But still, the trousers look more beautiful with a bevel. Therefore, we connect the two marks using soap and a ruler. It is better not to draw this line with chalk, as you will have to later scrub it off, and the soap will disappear on its own with further processing.
Now you need to turn the pants inside out.
Then we apply the braid to the line with the top edge and start basting at a distance of two millimeters from the top edge of the braid.. If you want, you can baste it first. (I find it easier without basting.)
When you finish stitching to the beginning of the braid, that is, you make a full circle, step back 1 cm (“overlapping”) and cut it off.
Now tuck the free end of the ribbon inward.
And press down with your finger, securing it from shifting.
Stitch to the fold along the top edge and stop the machine with the needle lowered into the fabric.
Then turn the trouser leg 90 degrees and stitch to the bottom edge of the tape.
Turn the trouser leg again 90 degrees and finish stitching the braid along the entire bottom edge to the beginning of the bottom line. Make a fastener. Turn your pants inside out.
Iron the trouser leg on both sides with a hot iron and steam.
Now turn the tape inside the trouser leg.
And iron, leaving a protruding edge of the trouser tape of 2 mm. This edge will protect the bottom of the trousers from abrasion when walking.
Now you need to hem the trouser leg with hidden stitches from the wrong side, trying to catch 1-2 threads of the trouser fabric with a needle.
Press the trouser legs again.
That's all! Have a nice work!
Almost every person has had cases when the purchased clothes were subject to modification, and it was necessary to go to the atelier. For those people who have sewing skills, such situations are not a problem. Moreover, such craftsmen do not need to spend additional money and time on going to the studio. It can be noted that it is useful to know how to properly hem trousers, because this item of clothing is the most common type of clothing.
Preparatory stage
Having studied how to do the preliminary work correctly, it will be useful to learn how to do preliminary work. These include the following points:
- Do a fitting. Pants must be worn so that the belt is exactly at the waist level (exception: model on the hips). Tuck the product in place where it touches the floor and pin it with pins. At the same time, there should be no creases or folds on the back of the pants, and in front, at the instep of the foot, the pants should bend slightly.
- Mark the fold line (the place that was pinned). Lay out the product on the table, fold the legs exactly so that the side seams match (if necessary, secure the position with needles). Check that the two halves are equal in length and mark the fold line using a ruler and chalk (or soap). From this level downwards you need to set aside the amount of allowance. In order to know how to properly hem trousers, the following information will be useful: the size of the allowance depends on the model and is accepted for flared trousers no more than 2.5 cm, and for classic products 4 cm will be the best option.
- Cut off excess length. Make tacks in the side seams and process the bottom using an overlocker or machine with a special stitch.
How to hem classic men's trousers correctly?
Let's look at how to hem a product using a special braid. The steps below are carried out after the preparatory work. The main points of hemming the bottom of classic trousers can be presented in the following list:
Additional Information
For those who are interested in information about how to hem correctly, we can say that these works are similar to the above information about hemming the bottom of a product for men. The exception is that in this case there is no need to sew on the braid. The remaining steps also apply to women's products.
For those who do not have an operation such as blind stitching in their sewing machine, it will be useful to learn how to properly hem trousers by hand. To do this, you may need a thin and long needle, threads that match the color of the base material, and pins. At the stage when the product has already been cut to the desired length and the bottom of the legs is processed using an overlocker, you need to bend the seam allowances and secure them with pins. Thread the needle with a single thread (it’s better to turn the pants inside out). Sew the seam allowance to the main part, turning it slightly over. The line is laid just below the processed edge. The needle should pass between the seam allowance and the leg, catching a little on each side so that no stitches are visible from the front side. The thread should not be too tight. If the trouser fabric is very thin, it is better to use a beading needle.
However, you need to decide on the method of processing the bottom of the trousers even before cutting the main parts (the back and front halves of the trousers), because In each case, you need your own allowance for processing.
Processing methods depend on:
- from the silhouette of the trousers: widened to the bottom, tapered or straight;
- on the properties of the material from which they are made;
- They belong to women's or men's wardrobe.
Also at the cutting stage it is necessary to determine the length of the trousers. Just like the silhouette, the length of the trousers is influenced by fashion trends. Now there is no hard and fast rule on this matter; everyone can choose the length based on their preferences.
In principle, three length options can be distinguished:
- The most conservative length (in English “full break”) assumes that the trousers reach the heel or mid-heel of the shoe. However, on the front creases of the trousers, creases form from contact with the front of the shoe.
- Length "no break". Modern trends allow that trousers can only just touch the shoe. In this case, there are no creases on the front halves. If you prefer such a shortened version, socks become an “accessory” - an element that is always in sight, and their choice must be taken very carefully.
- The average length is called "half break".
It is absolutely unacceptable for more than one fold to be placed on the front creases of the trousers. This gives a sloppy look. These trousers need to be shortened.
The English Gentleman's Style Guide points out that with trousers the basic rule is the same as with jacket sleeves - "a little short is better than a little long, especially if you're not a giant."
When determining the length of women's trousers, the correct combination with shoes must be added to the above. Shoes of different styles and heel heights require different silhouettes and lengths of trousers.
Designing hem allowance in different trouser silhouettes
Making hem allowance for straight trousers
At the cutting stage, mark two parallel lines: a hem line for the bottom at a distance from the top cut equal to the length of the finished trousers, and an allowance line for finishing the bottom equal to a hem width of 4-5 cm. Raise the hem line on the front halves of the trousers by 0.5 −1.0 cm, and on the back ones - lower by 0.5−1.0 cm, draw an arc to the side and crotch seams of the trousers. The deflection is done in order to minimize creases along the front creases of the trousers.
Making hem allowance for trousers widened towards the bottom
Add the hem allowance in the same way as described above. Additionally, draw an auxiliary line (dotted line) above the hem line by the width of the hem allowance. Measure the width of the trouser leg at this level. Set aside exactly the same amount for the hem allowance, half on both sides of the arrow line. Connect these points with the side and step cuts along the hem line of the bottom. Perform this operation on both halves of the trousers.
Applying hem allowance for tapered trousers
Add the hem allowance in the same way as in the case of trousers widened towards the bottom.
Note. Deflection is not done when sewing shortened, very narrowed and very widened trousers towards the bottom.
Before starting to process the bottom, it is advisable to check the length of the trousers during fitting.
Option 1. Processing the bottom of the trousers with a hem with an overcast edge
Women's trousers are usually processed without the use of trouser braid.
Step 1
Mark the hem line using straight basting stitches or soap on the right side of the pants. Sew the bottom edge of the trousers.
Turn the hem over to the wrong side and baste along the markings with straight running stitches. One line goes 1 cm from the fold, the second line goes 1 cm from the seam allowance. Iron the hem.
Step 2
Turn the hem over to the right side. Place the trouser leg with the wrong side facing you so that the overcast edge of the hem protrudes the width of the overcasting stitch. Sew the hem by hand using loose blind stitches, grabbing a pair of threads from the front side of the trousers. Only barely noticeable punctures should remain on the front side. Iron.
Note: trousers made from cotton and linen fibers in the informal women's and men's range are finished with a closed hem seam.
Option 2. Processing the bottom of the trousers with trouser braid
The bottom of classic men's trousers is processed using trouser braid. It gives shape to the bottom and helps keep the product looking attractive longer. The trouser braid has a thickening on one edge, which protects the bottom of the trousers from abrasion.
Important! Before use, the trouser braid must be decated: soaked in hot water, dried, ironed dry without stretching to avoid deformation.
Step 1
Sew the bottom edge of the trousers. Mark a hem line on the front side of the pants. Place the trouser braid over the seam allowance of the bottom of the trousers so that its thickened edge overlaps the marking line by 0.1-0.2 cm. Baste the braid starting from the crotch seam. The length of a piece of braid for processing one trouser leg is equal to twice the width of the trousers at the bottom +2 cm.
Important! The tape is basted with uniform tension. The bottom of the trousers should not be tightened, but the hem of the trousers should not be stretched out.
Step 2
Starting from the crotch seam, stitch the bottom edge of the trouser tape, stitching 0.2 cm from the thickened edge.
Fold the free edge of the braid at the level of the crotch seam and, without interrupting the stitching, perform a transverse tack.
Then lay a second line 0.1-0.2 cm from the inner edge of the braid.
Step 3
Turn the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side, sweep it so that the thickened edge of the tape extends 0.1-0.2 cm. Iron the hem.
Step 4
Note:
In men's trousers made of light fabrics, it is allowed to partially trim the bottom of the trousers with trouser braid, only along the back halves. This processing method can be successfully used in women's suit trousers, especially for the autumn-winter period.
Option 3. Processing the bottom of the trousers with facing and trouser braid
If there is not enough fabric for a full allowance for processing the bottom of the trousers, you can process the bottom of the trousers with a facing. This method can also be used when you need to lengthen your trousers by the width of the existing hem. In this case, in addition to the operations described below, it is necessary to correct the side and step seams in the hem area - remove unnecessary expansion, if any.
Step 1
Cut the hems of the bottom of the trousers to a width of 5-6 cm. Their shape should follow the shape of the bottom of the trousers.
Sew the front and back parts of the facings into a ring, press the seams.
Step 2
Place the facings on the bottom of the trousers with right sides facing each other, matching the side and crotch seams on the trousers and facings. Baste or pin.
Sew facings to the bottom of the trousers. Press seam allowances onto facings. Overcast the free edge of the facing.
Turn the facings to the wrong side. Sweep the bottom so that the thick edge of the tape extends 0.1-0.2 cm. Iron the hem.
Step 5
Hem the bottom of the trousers by hand using blind stitches. Iron.
You will learn how to process the bottom of trousers with cuffs from the following publication.
Lena has a higher and special education - a tailor of outerwear for men, women and children.
In clothing, she values individuality and thoughtfulness of the image, originality of cut. Likes to analyze modeling techniques and product processing technology. Maintains his page in Instagram..
“The quality of workmanship and the internal finishing of a product are integral aspects of sewing.”
Material prepared by Yulia Dekanova
