The best threads for making do-it-yourself tassel earrings - we are testing which threads to use when creating jewelry with our own hands. DIY brush earrings: ways to make earrings
Good afternoon everyone. My name is Yana, this master class is dedicated to tassle earrings, or rather, the tassels themselves and two options for their execution. The first variant of making tassel earrings is classic, and the second variant is with a different tip, with a recess in the middle. This version of tassel earrings is less common, but it also has its admirers. To be honest, I have not seen master classes on creating just such brushes. We recently had a review of the threads that I use to make brushes. And after this review of the threads, I received a lot of questions regarding the manufacture of this particular option. Therefore, today I will show you both options for making tassle earrings.
So, to make tassle earrings, we need: tools, accessories for earrings, some beads, Swarovski bicones, a piece of corrugated cardboard (7 cm wide), cotton threads, Doli viscose threads, fishing line or monofilament, blade, scissors and needles.
Well, the first thing we need to do is wind the threads on a piece of cardboard to get a brush for making earrings. I do not use various plastic cards, bank cards. For me, cardboard is the most convenient option. Its width is 7 cm. We will need to make brushes 6.5 cm long. Therefore, a margin of half a centimeter is enough for us. On one side and the other, we need to divide the cardboard in half. On this side, we will tie it exactly in the middle, and on the reverse side we will cut it, that is, this line will help us to do it all smoothly and accurately.
And we start winding the threads for the brush, I do exactly 700 revolutions, I do it on account. I grab the thread with my left hand, and start winding it with my right hand. I wind it evenly and accurately, all the threads are parallel to each other, try to keep each thread close to each other, then you get an even brush. The width of the winding should not be more than one and a half centimeters, so that the tassel earrings turn out to be even and fluffy. That is, in order to make it convenient for us to tie in the future, we do not need to wind threads over the entire width of the cardboard. About a centimeter and a half we wind exactly. And so we do a full 700 turns of thread.
After we have done this, we need to insert cotton threads into the needle, fix the brush. I use a thick needle, it is convenient to grab all the threads, crawl under them. This is how I tie a few knots. Exactly in the middle, at the mark that we have, we tighten it, pressing it with a finger, and make another knot.
The threads are not securely fastened yet, but we leave it in this position and turn it over to the other side. Here we will cut the blade in the same way in the middle, where our marking line is located. With a sharp blade, we simply press from above a little from side to side, draw with the blade, and all the threads are cut with us.
Next, carefully remove the cardboard. On the other hand, we grab the short edge of the thread with our hand, and with the long edge, with a long segment, we make another 3-4 turns. Hold tight so that all these threads do not move. And exactly at the same place where we have the first turn, we make three more. Next, we intercept, find the short end and here we hold it well with our left hand so that nothing is loosened there, and we make another 2-3 knots. That is, in this way, we completely fix the brush. We do not cut the thread - we will steam it for it in the future and cut it off later. You need to leave some part, cut off only a needle. That is, we will not bandage it here, because we will hide this whole part in a cap. Therefore, we do not need to tie it here in this place. It is also not particularly important what color our threads will be. Most often, of course, it is better to choose them absolutely in the color of viscose, but in our case, the threads will also be all hidden.
The next step is to steam the brush for the future earring. After the kettle boils, we need to place the brush over the steam with some kind of stick (I have a sushi stick). This is how we will steam the brush for the earring.
As you can see, it only takes a few seconds for our brush to completely line up. Now we need to trim it neatly.
In one of the previous videos, I already told you that I cut the tassels with heat shrink tubing. It is sold by the yard as is. I cut exactly six and a half centimeters, that is, to the length that I need, and put the brush inside. That is, for the thread that we did not cut, I completely skip the brush.
We cut off the excess with a blade. The blade must be very sharp, then the process will be quick and accurate. This is how I cut off everything superfluous, and the edge we get is absolutely perfect.
If you do not have such a tube (by the way, you can find it in any electrical goods store), then you can use, like many needlewomen, just a piece of paper. That is, we need to place the brush in paper, wrap it (naturally, without a tube) and cut it off along the edge. Next, we take the brush out of the tube, cut off the excess thread. Anyone who wants can drop a drop of glue or nail polish here, but I don’t do this.
And now we need to attach a pin here. I cut off the eye that is on the pin - it is large enough for me. And I make a very small loop - on the very edge of the round-nose pliers. I do this so that our limit switch gets used to the brush as best as possible. That is, here is such a small loop - I press it back a little. And I put it under the strings here, like this. We close the loop.
Next, I put on the trailer. That is, in this way it is attached to the brush. I put a beautiful decorative bead on top. Next, I need to bend the pin ninety degrees, cut it (leave about 7-8 mm). And we make a loop again. The tassel earring is almost ready.
Everything, it remains to attach the fastener. Here I am already bending the loop on the fastener, hooking it on the pin and returning the loop to its place. The tassel earring is ready!
The second version of the brush for the earring is a little more complicated. We wind the threads in the same way, tie and cut the tassel. Next, we need to take one part, and throw the second on top so that, like a palm tree, it is in the middle. We are looking for a center, we help straighten it with a needle.
And then - the crucial moment. We need it to turn out evenly, and all the threads lay flat. That is, we correct it several times with all our fingers and bring it to the ideal. Sometimes it takes quite a long time. Completely straighten everything as we need. And when we achieve the desired result, we need to tie the brush. If the brush lies almost flat, but some threads stick out in the other direction, you can pick them up a little and throw them to the right side. It is really very important here that this recess is exactly, exactly in the center, and all the threads are evenly distributed. Sometimes this is not very easy to achieve, but still I really like this version of the brushes too.
I cut off the excess thread. There is one more little difficulty here - this is to make the second brush exactly the same as the first. Well, it’s not so easy to carefully insert the pin here, because it is thick enough, and it pulls the strings behind it. I do it first with a needle. That is, I insert a needle exactly from above, as if punching a way for a pin, turn it over - here it is, a needle. I pull out the needle, remembering where to insert the pin, and push the pin into this place.
Here the loop can not be cut - it will not be visible. Pin will be much more reliable to hold on. So he got out of me approximately in the middle, hooked the strings behind him. I carefully remove them from the pin, pushing it to the end. And these threads can be easily corrected. I pull the thread up and look for it here - where it crawled from, and pull it back. I tighten the next thread in the same way. I catch it from this side and pull it up. And so all the threads that got out, we return to their place.
After we have brought the top to the ideal, we need to steam the brush in the same way. Here we have a pin sticking out, so you can grab it with pliers and hold it over the kettle in the same way. By the way, I tried to insert a pin before tying it, that is, with its presence, to form a tip, but, unfortunately, I always do it inaccurately. That is, it is easier for me to form a tip without a pin, and insert it later. You may find it easier to do it differently. I steamed and cut off the brush. Now we just need to place a decorative bead here in the same way. It fits very well in the recess that we made. In the same way, bend the pin at 90 degrees, cut off the excess and form a loop.
I deliberately do not focus on how I fasten, how I make loops. We have a separate video on working with pins. And today we are talking about brushes. Therefore, I show 2 ways to make the brushes themselves. And the formation of tassle earrings is already everyone's business. Everyone can have their own.
This is what the almost finished brush looks like. If you carefully bandaged here, then if you wish, you can leave it like that, but I usually always decorate this place.
I took Swarovski crystals of the same color, bicones, and with the help of fishing line I will now make a bezel in this place. I collect some beads. It will be different for everyone, so I don’t focus on it, I try it on so that everything is even. That is, the bezel should sit tight on the brush.
And I just tie knots. I always do 3-4 knots. So that the knot is invisible, I will skip the needle through 2-3 beads and tighten a little knot there. Next, very carefully, I cut the strings with a blade under the very spine. This is what the bezel looks like. I had these large beads on hand, but you can make them smaller. You can use beads of the same color. I will make another rim with gold beads number 15.
We do all the same. I collect the necessary number of beads, try on and tie the ring. All the same - I tie knots and cut off the excess.
Well, here's what the second version of the earring looks like. I don't know which option you like best.
I like both. I often make brushes in this form, and in this. Of course, it's up to you to decide, but I advise you to try both options - and then decide.
I hope this master class on making tassel earrings with your own hands was useful for you. If so, ask questions, write comments and reviews. We will definitely answer them. and, which were used in this master class, you can purchase in our online store with door-to-door delivery. If something was not clear to you from this master class, you can watch the video master class in which I show and tell everything in detail:
Original jewelry always attracts the attention of others, but to sparkle at a party in new earrings, it is not necessary to buy expensive jewelry.
In this master class, you will learn how to make your own thread earrings, using the leftovers of silk or other suitable threads as a basis. The manufacturing technique is so simple that even a novice needlewoman can cope with the work, including a schoolgirl preparing for the holiday or thinking of how to please her friend for the New Year or March 8.
What you need for needlework
To make thread tassel earrings, prepare:
- silk, synthetic or lurex threads 2-3 skeins, depending on how long the brush you want to get;
- earwires (2 pieces) - the basis for future earrings;
- beads or rhinestones 2-4 pieces (can be used as an additional decor);
- metal cap for beads - 2 pieces (used to decorate a bead or brush);
- scissors;
- cardboard;
- glue gun;
- floss;
- strass tape.
Step by step master class
Before you start making earrings from silk threads, prepare a sheet of cardboard of the width that you plan to make the length of the tassels, in this master class it is 10 cm, respectively, a strip of cardboard 10 cm wide is taken.
Wind the silk onto the cardboard. To get a magnificent earring, you need about 200 revolutions. At this stage, you can use several colors of yarn, depending on what color you want to end up with.
Take scissors. Now you can cut from the bottom.
Holding your finger to the place where the threads were tied at the top, fold them in half already without cardboard.
After the base of the earring in the form of a brush is ready, you can decorate it. If you do not want the floss to be visible, you can decorate the middle with a rhinestone ribbon, placing it directly on top of the floss and attaching it with glue.
After that, you can attach the fastener with decor to a previously prepared brush with a thread.
In the same way, you need to create a second decoration. Stylish and beautiful designer thread earrings are ready. You can sample!
If you make earrings from threads of a different color using the same technique, you will get a completely new piece of jewelry. Play with shades and length. Don't be afraid to experiment.
Making jewelry with your own hands is a very exciting process. If you do not want to be limited to simple decorations, go to ours to master various techniques.
Good afternoon everyone, my name is Yana and we continue to answer your questions.
Today's article will be devoted to brushes, or rather the threads that are used to make brushes. And also I will show my little life hack - an interesting device that I accidentally discovered for myself. It allows you to cut the brushes perfectly evenly. And I will also show you some ready-made brushes that I make myself.
In our review, three types of threads for brushes will be presented. These are 100% viscose embroidery threads, many prefer polyester threads, but I voted for viscose threads a long time ago and I mainly make tassels from viscose.
The first threads are DOLI threads made in India, they are easiest to buy in sewing accessories stores, their cost is not high, they can be found on average for 90 rubles.
There are 500 meters in the bobbin, their color range is quite wide, there is plenty to choose from, personally, I mainly make earrings from these threads. These threads have their drawbacks: for example, some colors of such a thread are very curly, that is, the threads are uneven and often get confused when winding, perhaps this is due to the weak twisting of the thread itself. Also, knots on a thread often come across, it happens that there are a lot of them in one bobbin. But, the excessive fluffiness and curlyness of these threads is found only in a few colors and may differ from batch to batch.
Here is a tassel of these threads. I make brushes at 700 revolutions and really count each turn. It is very important for me that the brushes are the same and counting the turns does not bother me, but most often it calms and relaxes. Brushes at 700 turns are very voluminous, fluffy.
It looks like a ready-made brush, steamed and trimmed. And here is what the brush looks like, which is still untreated with steam, it is very curly. It takes more time to straighten than with other threads. With one such bobbin, two pairs of brushes are obtained with a winding of 700 revolutions, that is, the price of one pair is around 45 rubles.
The following threads are made in China, they are called Shanfa.
The winding of such a bobbin, according to the manufacturer's information, is 2750 meters, it is quite large, it does not cost so much: such a skein is 120 rubles. These threads are much thinner than the previous ones. When winding 700 turns, the brush turns out to be a little thinner than from DOLI, it is less fluffy, but it is more even and smooth.
Here you can compare: they are not many different sizes, but in appearance they do not differ much and their difference is not particularly noticeable after winding. They curl and twist less, this is what a brush that has not yet been processed looks like.
In my city there is a very limited range of colors, but maybe I was looking badly. With such a large bobbin, you will get about 11 pairs of brushes and the cost of each pair will be about 11 rubles, which is much more profitable than the previous threads.
And the last sample for today is MADEIRA threads made in Germany.
I didn’t find them in my city, so I ordered via the Internet and the reel cost me 290 rubles. These threads number 40 winding them 1000 meters. The threads are very delicate, soft to the touch, they are silky and the brush at 700 turns is also slightly smaller than the first option in terms of thickness and density.
After winding, it practically does not curl. This is how an untreated brush looks like, it straightens even under the influence of the heat of the hands, that is, if you straighten it in your hands, it will become quite even even from the heat of the hands.
But I still straighten it all with steam, because under the influence of steam the brushes become absolutely perfect. Their color range is very large and varied, but unfortunately it is quite difficult to buy through the Internet, because the colors do not match either the pictures on the site or the palettes that I found. And I couldn't find black at all, no matter how much I searched. At cost, these brushes are the most expensive of all our options. From such a coil, about four pairs of brushes will be obtained and the price for 1 pair will be an average of 73 rubles.
Here's how these brushes look in comparison: DOLI, Shanfa and Madeira threads.
In terms of fluffiness, they do not differ much from each other, but if we take it in our hands and try to touch it, then the Shanfa thread brush turns out to be the smallest thickness, but it also looks about the same in density. If we compare in terms of density and splendor, then DOLI threads win here. The choice is yours.
Life hack! Heat shrink tubing is sold at electrical supply stores or radio markets.
They are designed to insulate wires, they come in different colors and diameters, but I use clear heat shrink tubing. Its width when folded is 1.7-2 centimeters, the diameter of the round (not flattened) is 1 cm. For me, this tube was the perfect solution for leveling the edge of the brush.
It is convenient to store brushes in these tubes or send them by mail. Pipes are sold by the meter, that is, in segments of one meter, and such a pipe costs 28 rubles per meter (50 rubles in some places). I cut off the part of the tube that I need, in this case it is 6.5 centimeters.
I place the already steamed brush there, ready for cutting, moving to the very top. And I cut off the excess part with a blade.
Then you can leave the brush in this form and store it until you need it, or pull it out and start assembling the earrings. Now such tubes are of course an indispensable material for me. I make brushes for sale and store blanks in such tubes. If you send them by mail, then the brushes reach safe and sound, securely fixed, and do not crumple. In the same tubes, you can buy these brushes in our store. For me, this is an amazing find.
I am often asked to show the jewelry that I make, and today is just the very moment when you can show off your jewelry and show how the tassels look already in the finished product.
That's all, I hope you liked this information and was interesting.
ATTENTION! In our store, you can either.
They don't draw with them, but they draw an image, an image in style. The prize sector on the drum falls out to those who thought about brushes.
Their clear geometric lines correspond to the spirit of the first third of the 20th century. This is the time of the emergence of constructivism and cubism.
The first called for abandoning complex forms, putting conciseness at the forefront. Pictures of the cubic style, in general, were complex, but were composed of the simplest geometric elements.
Art Deco, which manifested itself mainly in costumes, borrowed from the directions the desire for clear simplicity.
Simple silhouettes in clothing required reinforcements. One of them became tassel earrings. Why designers remembered them in the 21st century, we will understand further.
Features of earrings in the form of brushes
Externally tassel earrings- this is usually on the loop. This is the name of one of the types of fasteners.
This is not quite, because it does not close, but is kept in the earlobe only due to the curved shape.
There are also models with clips, like those, or, as they are popularly called, carnations.
On the outer side of the earlobe there may be a decorative one, or it may go down below.
It will definitely not do without one - a brush made up of long, strips, or.
You can consider options in the collections of Dolce & Gabbana, as well as Vita Kyn. One Italian fashion house.
The Sicilian theme is close to bright, large, but simple in form. The second designer is a Ukrainian woman, who has regained popularity with laconic cut-out outfits, speckled with traditional embroidery.
These dresses, tunics and blouses are great thread tassel earrings, or .
A large form is a mandatory requirement for brushes. Often, they hang below the level.
There are no higher ones at all. Otherwise, the structure, like their fasteners, may vary. Let's get acquainted with the main types of execution.
Types of earrings in the form of brushes
You can draw examples not only from fashion designers' shows, but also from photos with celebrities.
From Russian, for example, Alsou, Maria Kozhevnikova, Evelina Bledans often appear in the form of brushes.
The latter, for example, prefers models from KoJewerly.
Buy tassel earrings everyone decided differently. So, Alsou chooses samples that look like studs, with a single chain extending from them, which is crowned with a short but voluminous brush.
Both she herself and the rest of the parts are made of metal. Alsou acquires gold tassel earrings, or platinum models.
Tassel earrings in the photo with Maria Kozhevnikova they are combined, that is, they consist of different materials.
The actress complements the upper, metal part with silk and. Some Marys are hybrids of brushes and.
The latter are attributed with a large number. We put brushes instead of them and get something in between two types of earrings.
Beaded tassel earrings, , metal, leather fringe, can be solid or collapsible.
The lower part of the latter is detached. Based on one top, it turns out to create several different ones.
Now, let's look at the configuration of the brushes themselves. Evelina Bledans, for example, sometimes, the threads of which are not collected in a bundle, but are attached in several rows to the base.
The starting "point" can be rectangular, with large petals, inverted. These are more like waterfalls than brushes.
DIY tassel earrings
In the photo below, there is one version of do-it-yourself tassle earrings, and the option described by the text can be viewed in more detail in the video clip at the end of this chapter.
Question, how to make tassel earrings, not from complex models. The easiest options to make from threads. Tassel earrings require from 9 positions. 6 of them are used in, 3 are auxiliary, for example, cardboard.
A silk thread is wound on it. Usually, they take cardboard 10-12 centimeters wide. The average thread consumption is 200 revolutions around the warp.
Having made them, we take them under silk and tie thin threads at one end of the cardboard.
This will keep the bun from falling apart when we cut the yarn at the other end of the warp.
By the way, you can start. You will need a second auxiliary item -.
Having removed the threads from the cardboard and holding the place of preliminary bonding, fold the bundle in half.
Stepping back a centimeter, one and a half from its top, we wrap the floss. A few turns are enough, but any number is not prohibited.
We tie the end of the floss and drag it between the bent silk threads of the top of the brush. There should be about 5 centimeters of floss left.
Now we decorate the winding place. You can attach, for example, using the third auxiliary item - glue.
It remains to string a few on a thread, or one, attaching the product to the fastener. This is the official name of the loop fastener. Here we are ready tassel earrings.
Master Class, showing how to make the brushes harder. Suppose we want 7 cm length.
So, you need 140 centimeters of nylon thread + 10 centimeters for allowance, that is, ponytails.
They will be needed to attach the brush to a metal base, called a pin with. You can make the part yourself from wire, or buy it from.
So, we take a monophonic, or multi-colored. No. 10 beads are ideal for the width of the inner hole.
We divide 140 centimeters of the thread into three equal segments so as not to get confused during work.
We insert the thread into a special long one for beads and string the beads. We mark the length of 7 centimeters along the ruler.
Having collected beads, we skip the last bead, bending around it. In the remaining elements we thread the thread in the reverse order.
Leaving the row, we fasten the thread on the eye of the pin and continue to dial the rows one by one. When the brush is formed, wrap the ends of the thread around the metal base.
From above we put on a decorative cap. It will close the junction of the elements and decorate the earring. It is also purchased with fabrics and accessories.
We place a bead over the cap and bend the rest of the pin into a loop. It remains to attach a fastener to this loop and choose the appropriate outfit.
I bring to your attention a small guide to assembling silk brushes.
By no means do I claim their authorship, but when I needed to make them, I was faced with the fact that in all the master classes I found, the description was not entirely complete and did not describe many points that interest me. Therefore, I made up my description of the creation of these wonderful jewelry items. I hope my master class will be useful to you.
For work we need:
Threads for embroidery "GAMMA" V150/2 100% viscose (photo of the spool is attached), I have shade No. 3057.
Threads are ordinary polyester to match the tassels (for tying).
Colorless nail polish.
Two identical boxes or boards (I have boxes for rhinestones 12x8x2 cm).
A sheet of paper (I cut off 1/4 of an A4 sheet) to trim the brushes. 
Additionally for decor (I don’t attach a photo, as this is all for your taste):
beads miyuki delica 11, I have shade DB-0042;
threads to match the beads;
2 connecting rings with a diameter of 6 mm.
or:
brush caps to your taste;
pins to match the caps are longer;
a pair of beads 8-12 mm (I have 8 mm).
So let's get started
We will be making two identical earring brushes at once, and we want them to be the same thickness. We take the base for winding brushes (I have a box) and wind half a coil or a little less by eye (I always wind less than half) in order to evenly distribute the threads over two warps. I fit the coil into a pencil holder, as in part 1 of the photo. Although sometimes troubles happen with viscose as in 2 parts of a collage - unraveling of the coil. Turning it upside down helps me so that when unwinding it twists in the other direction. 
After that, we wind the same amount on the 2nd base and distribute the rest of the threads so that there is an equal number of threads on each. I determine by touch :) You don’t need to fasten the thread, I just press it with my finger while I make the first turns. 
When the entire coil is wound equally, we need to tightly bandage our future brushes. I take a polyester thread of the same color, tie the bundle, then wrap the thread around it one more time and tie it again. So thicker and stronger. I leave thread tails about 15 cm. 
Now I turn the box over to the opposite side, pick up the entire bundle with a ruler so that all the threads are captured, and cut the threads so that the winding is in the middle. It turns out this mess: 
I hang it all on a pencil (so as not to burn myself) by a polyester thread and straighten the brushes over a boiling kettle, like this: 
Now we bring them into the divine form. I rewind the brushes with polyester thread at a distance of 1 cm from the fold, making several knots along the winding: I wrapped a couple of circles - tightened it very carefully - tied a knot, repeated a couple more times. I cut the ends of these threads and cover them with a drop of varnish, and when it dries, I flatten the knot with my fingers. 
Now you need to trim the brush. I take a piece of paper (the same one that is a quarter of A4) and tightly, tightly, but very carefully and evenly wrap the brush into it so that half the length remains outside the paper. I don’t have half in the photo, the very tip, but it’s better to leave more just in case. 
It turns out a roll, on one side a thread. and on the other - the ends of the brush. By pulling on the thread, I determine the length of the brush for trimming so that only all the jagged edges are out. I flatten the roll, and, holding it tightly so that the threads do not creep away, I cut it evenly with scissors, like this: 
Here is the smooth edge: 
Well, the design of the top remains. There are many different ways here. I decided to make these brushes solemn and decorated them with a beaded ring. I will weave the ring with mosaic weaving. I take a needle and thread and Miyuki Delica beads. I do not tie a knot, instead I leave 15 cm of thread at the very beginning. I collect 5 beads and weave a strip according to the scheme: 
This is how it turns out for me: 
Gathering beads, I estimate the length, and when the strip tightly wraps around the ring, I connect the edges right on the brush: 
In the last photo in the collage, the focus has gone astray, but it can be seen that I tightly tied a knot from the ends of the threads. After that, I cut them short, take a felt-tip pen to match the brushes and cover up our knot so that it does not “glow”. After painting with a felt-tip pen, I smear a drop of varnish :)
Now you need to insert the connecting rings. Carefully, trying not to knock the threads out of the brush, I thread the rings into the fold, align them with pliers and fix the joint of the ring with varnish. Now you can cut the polyester threads and cover the knots with varnish: 
Our solemn tassels are ready, and now you can make earrings with them. Perhaps I will then attach them to the fullerenes of red and golden Swarovski pearls. You can have a lot of your options :) 
This is how my tassels on rings with fullerenes will look like :) 
Here are some more brush options:
We take the same silk thread from which they are made (in this case, at the very beginning we do not wind the whole coil!) And gently wind the silk thread over the knotted polyester thread, turn to turn next, so that it turns out like this: 
Or, instead of a ring, we thread a long pin, after unbending the loop (or cutting it, if the length allows), we twist it, as shown in the figure: 
We put a cap of a suitable size on top of the pin (note that in this option you will need to rewind the brushes not 1 cm from the fold, but as little as possible, otherwise the threads will stick out from under the cap) and decorate it with a bead. We twist the pin into a ring and put on a fastener. It turns out like this: 
I think you will find many more ways to use these wonderful brushes.
Finally, I will add that such brushes crumple quite easily and you need to store them in a special “house” - a box, so that they are always straight. I make these cute sketch paper boxes for them: 
