Modeling a straight skirt. Such a simple pencil skirt: what to consider when designing to achieve a slimming effect Modeling a pencil skirt with reliefs

Pattern of a fashionable pencil skirt with a one-piece belt and original figured reliefs. At the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt there is a slit that provides freedom when walking. The zipper can be located in both the left and middle seams.

You can use a variety of fabrics to sew a skirt. Classic suiting fabric, plain dyed and patterned, or a combination of both, is suitable. You can also use raincoat fabric, denim, corduroy, taffeta and other fabrics. Depending on the fabric and finishing, for example, finishing stitching or set-in piping along raised seams, this skirt model can be made in both a sporty and classic style. In any version, this is a modern, feminine, original skirt model.

Preparing a pattern: print it on a regular printer, glue the sheets together according to the pattern (it is printed on the first sheet), cut out the size that suits you. That's all, you can start cutting.

The pattern is given full size without seam allowances to a conventionally typical figure. If your parameters do not fit into generally accepted standards, adjust the pattern in accordance with the characteristics of your figure. Also, when cutting, make seam allowances slightly larger than usual, especially in those places where adjustments are possible during fitting.

The fabric will require approximately 0.80 m with a width of 1.50.

The upper section of the skirt is finished with facing.

Cut out your skirts

The middle part of the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
Upper side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
Lower side part of the front panel of the skirt 2 parts
The middle part of the back panel of the skirt 2 parts
Upper side part of the back panel of the skirt 2 parts
Lower side part of the back panel of the skirt 2 parts
Facing the front panel of the skirt 1 piece
Facing the back panel of the skirt 1 piece

Sewing a skirt

After stitching, overcast all sections and iron or iron them in accordance with the style of the product. Overcast the middle sections of the back panel before stitching

First sew the side parts together, and then connect them to the middle part of the skirt. If you opted for a sporty option and selected the fabric accordingly (denim, corduroy, raincoat fabric, etc.), lay a finishing stitch (single or double) along each relief.
Finish the cut at the bottom of the middle seam of the back panel.
Now that the front and back panels are finished, bring the side seams together, leaving an open area in the left side seam for the zipper.
Sew in the zipper.
Process the top section of the skirt, having previously duplicated the facing of the front and back panels of the skirt with an adhesive pad.
All that remains is to hem the bottom and the skirt is ready.

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There are two figured reliefs on the front and back panels of the skirt. This division of the skirt panels allows you, if desired, to combine fabrics of different colors and (or) textures. The zipper can be located as standard: at the top of the left side seam, or at the back in the middle seam. A skirt with a through fastener with a metal zipper in the side seam (you can even do it in both) or in the middle seam of the back panel of the skirt looks interesting. Experiment!

The skirt pattern is suitable for women with waist circumference 80cm and hip circumference 104cm. Skirt length 63 cm.

The skirt pattern is given without seam allowances.

Print out the pattern sheets and connect them according to the diagram. The pattern is the order in which the pattern sheets are connected. It is printed on the first sheet.

Be sure to check the scale for consistency. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters. To do this, in the printer settings, set the document print scale to 100% (no scaling).

Before cutting, double-check that your measurements match the pattern parameters.

Ready-made patterns are given for a conventionally typical figure. If your figure differs from the conventionally typical one, you should adjust the pattern taking into account the characteristics of your physique and only then start cutting.

Don't forget to give seam allowances, as well as additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.

Having swept away the parts, try on the product, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.

The skirt can be either lined or unlined. The lining is cut according to the main parts.

For those who want to create a pattern for a specific figure based on the measurements taken, we have a detailed one. Having such a basic pattern, you can create a wide variety of skirt styles.

Modeling is the stage of clothing design. Modeling can be technical (creating a new model based on an existing basic pattern or drawing) and artistic (changing the style of the model using decoration, finishing). Modeling a skirt - creating simple and complex types of it by changing the drawings of straight (two-seam) or multi-seam (wedge-shaped, conical) models.

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Varieties of two-seam straight skirt

With a fold (with one or a whole row, with a smell).
With an undercut (in an ensemble with pockets).
With relief.
On the yoke.
High waisted.
With a basque.

Modeling straight two-seam skirts

Creating a new straight skirt doesn't have to start from scratch. The basis is usually taken from a ready-made pattern of a standard straight model. Its construction consists of two panels - the front (with a larger width) and the back (sometimes it is left unchanged during cutting). From the waist, both in front and behind each part of the pattern, there are two stitched pleats tapering downward - darts.

The most common types of straight products with two seams on the sides are products with functional or decorative folds (drapes). Folds - one or several - can be located in front, behind or on the sides.

Wrap skirt

Models of straight skirts with two seams and folds require an increase in fabric for each of the folds (can have one or two sides). Bilateral folds are divided into counter folds (laid towards each other) and bow folds (in different directions).

The wrap is a special type of front fold that overlaps from right to left. The cut of the smell is processed using the method of precise hemming. He is able to successfully correct the lack of girth in the waist area. It is enough just to alter the button on which it is attached.

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Constructing a pattern

Place the back pattern of the straight model in the center. Sort the fragments of the design of the front part of the future skirt along the sides.
Transfer all darts and solutions in the outer seams to the material.
Make the lining pattern the same as the main one, taking into account that its width should be 10-15 cm less.

Product processing

Process the sections of the fabric parts at the top and bottom (this applies to the base and lining).
Sew main and lining darts. Iron them from the center to the edges. The side darts are smoothed towards the back of the product.
Fold the base with the lining along the belt line, aligning the darts that should be inside the resulting structure. Fold the sides of the product and get rid of the excess lining edge.
Turn both parts “facing” each other, sew on the sides.
Turn out and iron both finished parts.
Machine stitch the base and lining at the waist.
Sew the belt folded in half first to the front side, then to the wrong side. Attach a hook (or loop) to the right end of the belt, and a button or button to the left.
Don't forget about processing below.

Skirt with undercut and flounce

Undercuts are inserts, unique types of darts, which are filled with fan folds or soft flounces. The shape and location of the hems on the skirt are determined by its style. The undercut can be constructed based on a solid structure or made up of fragments. If the cut is fractional, the fragments of the structure will be connected to each other through internal folds on the folds.

Hem pockets that model the product in straight two-seam skirts are usually located at the level of the horizontal hem. Counter folds fan out from them.

Pockets differ in their location, have different entry lines, and are decorated differently (closed with flaps, edged). They can also be significantly removed from the silhouette (hang over the base). On the front part of the skirt, inserts with pockets sometimes occupy the entire space from the waist, ending at the very side section.

The undercut in the popular wrap skirt model is located in the front, in the center, filled with one wave of soft folds.

Constructing a pattern

Cut out the flounce, duplicating the contours of the mortise insert.
To make the shuttlecock tails (assemblies) symmetrical, lay out the resulting part in front of you.
Turn one half of the shuttlecock drawing to the left and trace along the contour.
Mark the tails of one straight line in the center, another one or two segments on the sides of it. Make cuts along the lines from bottom to top, without bringing the scissors to the end. Extend the shuttlecock according to the size of the tail.
If the fabric is soft, you can move the gathers apart by 8-12 cm. Denser fabric requires less expansion.

Product processing

Using a baste, connect the darts and sides of the base. Align the key parts (according to the marks of the bottom, hips, waist).
In the same way, attach the shuttlecock to the front panel and process the product from below.
Remove the basting and iron the darts, moving towards the center of both panels.
Sew the side sections with a seam 2-2.5 cm wide, providing the item with a hidden zipper.
Process the shuttlecock detail. The width of the folded seam is 0.5-0.7 cm.
Again, machine stitch the flounce onto the front of the product. Now the seam size is 1 cm.
Baste the belt, add a zipper.
Secure the bottom with a hidden seam with a sole.
Process the top of the model.

Skirt with relief

The reliefs (wedges) in both shoulder and waist products are exclusively vertical. On skirts they usually go through darts at the waist. Can be paired or separate. The reliefs of the models are good for placing pockets, cuts, and decorative elements.

They can be equipped either with only the front part of the skirt, or with both panels at once.

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Constructing a pattern

Draw a relief line on the front of the structure. The relief line will be a vertical line laid at a certain distance from the center. This distance can be equal to 1/10 of the hip circumference.
Transfer the front dart of the main pattern to the relief, leaving its parameters unchanged.
Raise the top edge of the product, provided that the dart is closed.
Cut out the front part of the drawing along the relief line.

Product processing

Sew the darts, steam them from the inside, turning each one towards the center of the panel.
Sweep from the face.
Straighten the seam, focusing on the line.
Lightly press the folds with an iron and steam the fold, securing it with a small piece of fabric.
Sew fragments of both panels of the structure (side and central).

Yoke skirt

Yokes (cut-off parts) of two-seam straight skirts can be cut in the form of rectangles, ovals, and complex shapes. The width of the cut piece depends on how long the side cut is. The yoke is sewn at any point from the waist to the hip line. Typically, the yoke in its widest zone is located at a distance of 3-5 cm, falling slightly below (or above) the hip line. It is connected to the main parts of the structure, or the panels themselves are placed on it. The edges of the cut are modeled with decorative stitching, lace, and frill.

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Constructing a pattern

Decide on the height of the yoke.
Set aside the height of the part from the top points of the finished pattern according to the side drawings.
Before connecting the resulting points with straight lines, you need to close the darts. To do this, connect the lower corner of the dart with a vertical line to the bottom of the skirt. Cut the patterns of both panels along this vertical line.
Use a rounded line to outline the resulting marks on both constructions. The cutting line should lie at a right angle to the midline of the waist.
Receive the yoke and the main fabric of the product.
Close the cut at the bottom of the structure.
The yoke cut level can be drawn through the top of the dart.
Cut the lines coming from the sharp corner of the darts. You will get three parts on each panel.
Divide the lower part of the model into pieces of equal size. Cut the bottom of the pattern along these segments.
Move the hem to the required distance.
Close the back darts.

Product processing

Sew the yoke with the front panel.
Work the seams. Connect the yoke to the back of the product. Sweep the cuts.
Sew the sides. Sew a zipper on the left side.
Process the belt, design the hem.

High waist skirt

The high waist level of a two-seam straight model is often emphasized with fasteners placed in curly necklines. In one of the wedges, which divides this type of product vertically, folds are placed, laid towards each other. The cut of the side fragments of the front part of such a skirt is left intact.

The model’s belt is made one-piece with a height of 3-8 cm.

Constructing a pattern

From the extreme points of the top of both construction panels, draw lines upward to the desired height. Make sure that the waist length is not less than 7 cm.
Connect the received marks.
Place the pieces upward from the bases of the darts of both parts of the drawing.
Reduce the opening of the front (back) darts by 0.5 cm.

Product processing

Work out the cuts of the center and rear parts.
Sew in a hidden zipper and close the middle seam. Leave a 15-20 cm incision at the bottom.
Finish the seams on the sides. Sew on a belt, complete with fittings (decorative elements).
Decorate the bottom of the hem as standard.

Skirt with Basques

Peplum is a frill that is sewn to the base skirt along the entire waist length or applied asymmetrically. The peplum can also be attached to the edge of the hem.

On waist products, such a frill is always cut off. The detail sometimes consists of a stripe, a bow, a flounce, a geometric cut, as well as symmetrical collars on the sides of the model. The length of the peplum is determined arbitrarily.

Constructing a pattern

Narrow the base pattern 3 cm downwards.
Stepping back 15-18 cm from the bottom of the product, mark the cut.
Cut out the parts of the peplum of the desired size from the main and lining fabrics. Make the front part one piece, and make the back part from two fragments.

Product processing

Close the darts of the front (back) structures.
Smooth out the depth of the darts towards the center of the front of the model, closer to the back.
Finish the seam of the back half.
Sew in a hidden zipper.
Work the seams on the sides.
Gather and sew the lining, without closing, but inserting the darts.
Cut a rectangle for the peplum 30 cm wide + allowances.
Round the corners of the frill on one side and finish the bottom.
Using a baste, attach the frill along the waistline and pull it off.
Sew the belt on the right side as close to the edge as possible.
Work on the bottom of the finished item.

Straight models are sewn from fabric of sufficient weight and good density (wool, linen, silk, cotton). Depending on the style, choose the width of the fabric cut. Products widened at the bottom, like skirts with pleats, are made from wider fabric fragments. The color of the material may vary depending on the cut. In the case of straight silhouettes, it is recommended to select smoothly colored fabric, striped or large checkered.

The relief starts from the side seam on the back panel of the skirt, goes to the most protruding part of the buttocks, and then takes a vertical direction (Fig. 196).

Rice. 196

On a copy of the base pattern for the back panel of the skirt, draw a relief line according to the model (Fig. 197).

Rice. 197

If desired, the relief can be positioned slightly higher or lower, to the right or to the left of the base dart. In this case, you need to draw a relief line, then move the base dart so that its end is on the vertical relief line (the dashed horizontal line shows how much shorter the dart is made).

Cut the pattern along the inclined line of the relief to notch A and, having closed the base dart, continue the cut to the bottom line (Fig. 198).

Rice. 198

Skirt with front yoke

The yoke line on the front of the skirt runs through the ends of the darts (Fig. 199). Transfer the front of the skirt from the base pattern without darts and draw a yoke in accordance with the model: 4 cm below the waist line along the side cut line and 15 cm along the middle front line.

Rice. 199

Transfer two or three darts from the base pattern to the new pattern, placing them closer to the side cut line (Fig. 200). Then change their length so that they end at the yoke line (the ends of the warp dart lines are marked with horizontal dashed lines).

Rice. 200

Cut off the yoke and close the darts, bringing their sides closer together, but not overlapping each other (Fig. 201). The reduced length of the darts does not spoil the appearance of the yoke and provides the necessary convexity of the skirt in this place.

Rice. 201

If the lines of the darts are straight, then they are completely closed (Fig. 202). Such darts are used on very soft fabrics or knitwear.

Rice. 202

Skirt with tails from the waistline

The model of this skirt is shown in Fig. 203. Let's look at their construction on the front panel of the skirt (the construction on the back panel is similar).

Rice. 203

On the drawing of the front of the skirt, which does not indicate darts, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front, dividing the pattern into equal stripes, and number them (Fig. 204).

Rice. 204

Distribute the depth of the main dart between all the slits and the mid-front line and draw slightly convex dart lines approximately 8 cm long.

Cut the copy of the pattern into strips and cut out the darts. Extend the skirt as indicated below.

There may be three options for expanding the skirt. The amount of expansion depends on the type of fabric, silhouette and fashion.

Once the darts are closed, continue spreading the stripes until you get the desired extension of the skirt at the bottom. Along the lines of the middle front and side cut, also add half a tail.

On the patterns of the skirt drawings, mark the direction of the longitudinal (or oblique) thread. In addition, if the model does not have a seam along the middle line, you must indicate the fold of the fabric (the middle of the front is solid lobar or oblique).

Skirt with two seams at the front

The shape of the skirt shown in Fig. 207, the same as the previous one, but its pattern construction is different.

Rice. 207

Determine on the figure at what distance from the middle of the front the seams should be located, and draw the seam lines parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 208). The position and direction of the seam in a flared skirt should be consistent with the location and shape of the dart.

Rice. 208

On both sides of the cut line, draw dart lines for the base if its opening is not too large. For some figures, a dart 3-3.5 cm deep is required in this place on the front of the skirt, but this is extremely rare.

Therefore, it is better to limit the tuck depth to approximately 2 cm. In this case, transfer the remainder of the tuck opening to the middle of the side wedge, as shown in Fig. 208.

Cut the pattern along the marked line, transfer both parts of the front of the skirt to another sheet of paper and widen the skirt (Fig. 209).

Rice. 209

Set aside half of the extension (8 cm for example) from the cut line. Draw a straight line through the resulting point, tangent to the cut line. Correct the bottom line of the skirt as shown in Fig. 209.

The grain of the fabric should run through the middle of the wedge.

The back panel of the skirt is cut out in the same way as the front panel, in the form of a wide wedge without a seam in the middle (as for a six-seam skirt).

The dart on the back panel can, if necessary, be placed entirely in the cut line, but you can also transfer part of the solution to the middle of the side wedge, as shown in Fig. 210.

Rice. 210

If the expansion is given on each wedge of the model, you can connect the side sections of the back and front panels of the skirt. In this case, the side seam is excluded.

You can also connect the side sections of the back and front panels of the skirt without expanding them.

If the back panel of the skirt has a seam in the middle, make a small dart in it along the waistline and make an extension equal to one-third of the tail. The reduction is made because the coattails always seem larger here (Fig. 211).

Rice. 211

Bell-shaped skirt

The expansion of the skirt at the seams begins low (Fig. 212). A skirt of this shape can be obtained by making it from at least four wedges.

Rice. 212

Transfer the drawing of the skirt from Fig. onto a sheet of paper. 208.

Slightly below the middle of the length, indicate the beginning of the expansion of the skirt (Fig. 213).

Rice. 213

Cut the pattern along the dashed line and transfer it to another sheet of paper.

Add half an extension to each part along the bottom line (for example, 4 cm).

Connect the resulting points with inclined solid lines with the existing notches (Fig. 214).

Rice. 214

Skirt made of narrow stripes, widened at the bottom

Using the same principle, you can make patterns for the model shown in Fig. 215. A group of strips is usually placed in the area between the warp darts on both the back and front panels of the skirt.

Rice. 215

On the pattern of the front panel, draw two parallel lines at a distance of 5 cm from one another and draw two small concave darts (Fig. 216).

Rice. 216

Draw one strip separately, indicate the direction of the grain thread and add half a fold of the required size on each side at the required height. Draw a bottom line as indicated above (solid line). The dashed line indicates that the half-tail can be the size of a quarter circle. The second strip is drawn in exactly the same way.

On the back panel of the skirt, the stripes appear wider at the waist than at the hip line. This visual distortion is caused by the convexity of the figure in the buttock area. Therefore, in order to maintain the appearance of parallelism of the stripes, they need to be slightly narrowed along the waist line.

Draw two lines at a distance of 5 cm from one another on the pattern of the back panel of the skirt, as shown in Fig. 217. On each line, mark the level of the end of the base dart and build darts with a solution equal to 0.6 cm. This value is sufficient for the normal convexity of the hips. The size of the dart opening can be determined by fitting.

Rice. 217

Measure on the pattern how much the length of the waistline has decreased (in the example by 1-2 cm), subtract this value from the size of the base dart solution and add the remainder to the side strip.

Flared skirt with patches

The model of this skirt is shown in Fig. 218.

Rice. 218

On the straight skirt pattern, draw a pata line and an expansion line parallel to the middle of the front (Fig. 219).

Rice. 219

Transfer both parts of the skirt to separate sheets of paper and widen it, starting from the bottom edge of the pata (Fig. 220, the width of the half-fold is 5 cm).

Rice. 220

To make fitting easier, mark the location of the patch on the side of the skirt. Also draw the slightly concave lines of the skirt dart. Notches marked with a cross are needed to accurately connect the parts of the skirt.

On the patch, mark the location of the button and loop. Use dashes to mark the finishing stitch to position the button correctly.

To make the expansion more significant, you should make a pattern for a flared skirt (see Fig. 205), attach the resulting pattern to the figure and mark the pattern and cut line.

Skirt with spiral relief

In this skirt (Fig. 221), the asymmetrical hem continues continuously from the front to the back panel of a straight or flared skirt.

Rice. 221

First, determine the shape of the main lines of the skirt: curved, semi-curved, straight.

Select the appropriate base pattern. If the dress with such a skirt has a fitted silhouette, choose darts or relief that better suit the model.

If the skirt is loose, cut the auxiliary pattern along the waistline to make it easier to convert the straight skirt into a loose skirt, and then match both pieces.

If the texture of the skirt must match the relief of the bodice, match both parts along the waistline after closing the darts (thin dashed lines) on them.

To draw an asymmetrical relief, you need to complete the left and right parts of the skirt pattern and the back, if the relief continues on the back.

Move the left and right parts of the front panel of the skirt (see Fig. 205).

Make a pattern for the back panel of the skirt, forming the same extension on it.

Close the darts and connect both parts of the skirt along the side lines.

Draw the relief as shown in Fig. 222 (or vice versa). Lay the pattern on a plane and refine the drawing.

Rice. 222

In the example, the terrain is inclined from left to top and to the right. But it can also be the other way around.

Skirt with undercut and gathers

The back panel of the skirt is trimmed with a flared detail, which is slightly gathered along the hem (Fig. 223). This is one of the ways that gives freedom of movement with a long straight skirt.

Rice. 223

Sometimes such a detail is cut out in the form of a train. On the pattern of the back panel of the skirt (with one or two darts), draw an inclined and then a vertical cutting line. Divide the part into strips 1, 2 and 3 (Fig. 224).

Rice. 224

Before cutting the numbered strips, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the direction in which the gathers fall. For a part of small height, as in the example, such a line is the bottom line.

Cut the numbered strips. Place them on another sheet of paper and, focusing on the horizontal line, move the strips apart so as to obtain the necessary expansion for the assemblies (Fig. 225, a). Mark clearly the middle of each strip at the top with small vertical lines and mark the height of the strips with the letters A and O.

Rice. 225

Draw a new top line, connecting points A and O with a straight line passing through the marked midpoints of the strips (Fig. 225, b).

It is easier to draw an upper inclined line by connecting two vertical lines marking the different heights of the part.

Divide this part into strips of the same width (Fig. 225, c), cut along the marked lines and expand the lower part, as shown in Fig. 225, g.

Skirt extended below the waistline

The expansion of the skirt at a distance of 8-10 cm below the waist (Fig. 226) is achieved by performing gatherings.

Rice. 226

These types of skirts are complemented by petticoats specially designed for each skirt.

On a piece of fabric, determine the required size of the dart opening (for this model, 7-8 cm x 2 + 2-3 cm for the bulge along the side seam is enough).

From the overall result obtained, subtract the size of the main dart opening and expand the base pattern by the missing amount (Fig. 227, a), guided by the technique for obtaining folds.

Rice. 227

Determine the desired width of the skirt at the bottom and make appropriate changes to the pattern (Fig. 227, b).

Mark the darts and relief in accordance with the model. Close the resulting darts, attach the pattern to the figure and refine it.

Semi-sun skirt

The pattern of such a skirt is a semicircle. Make a quarter circle for the front and back panels of the skirt (Fig. 228).

Rice. 228

Using the base pattern, measure the length of the waistline of the front and back panels and subtract the size of the base dart opening. Multiply each of the resulting measurements by two to obtain the width of each panel (the pattern is constructed using the entire figure).

If both panels of the skirt are the same, then it is enough to divide the waist circumference measurement in half (for a dress - the pattern measurement, for a separate skirt - the measurement taken from the figure).

Start with the back panel. Using the measurement taken, draw a quarter of a circle (Fig. 229).

Rice. 229

Let the width of the back panel of the skirt along the waist line be 15, and the front panel - 17.5 cm. Divide 15 by 3.1 and multiply the resulting number by two to get the radius of the quarter circle (for example, 4.8 x 2 = 9.6 cm ).

Use a rectangle to construct a right angle. From the top of the right angle, mark a quarter of a circle with a compass, the arc of which will be the waist line (see Fig. 228).

As an extension of the radius, set aside a segment equal to the length of the skirt (for example, 25 cm). With a radius of 9.6 + 15 cm, draw a line for the bottom of the skirt.

For the front panel (front) of the skirt, do the same calculations (17.5: 3.1 = 5.6 cm; 5.6 x 2 = 11.2 cm). In Fig. 229 dashed lines show the pattern for the front of the skirt.

When constructing both parts of the pattern on one sheet of paper, as in Fig. 229, use a colored pencil for one of the panels of the skirt.

Sun cut skirts

For a sun-cut skirt, draw a full circle (half a circle for the front panel of the skirt and half a circle for the back panel).

Follow the drawing as for a half-sun skirt.

To draw the waist line using the measurements taken, you need to determine the radius. To do this, just divide the required waist measurement by 3.1 (for example, for the back panel of a skirt 15: 3.1 = 4.8 cm).

Draw a straight line and mark the length of the skirt on it (Fig. 230). From the end of the side cut line, set aside a radius and draw a waist line for the back panel of the skirt (solid line).

Rice. 230

Then, taking into account the length of the skirt, draw a line for the bottom of the back panel (solid line).

The front lines are drawn with strokes.

Skirt cut “sun” from several semicircles. To get a skirt wider than a full circle, it is enough to divide the waist circumference by the number of semicircles that the fashion requires, and draw a drawing according to the resulting measurement. For example, for a skirt of four semicircles with a waist circumference of 64 cm, you need to first divide 64 by four, and then the resulting value by 3.1 (to determine the radius).

Gathered sun-cut skirt. The width of such a skirt at the waist is greater than the waist circumference, by the amount necessary for gathering. For a tulle skirt, the width of the skirt along the waist lines is 2-4 times greater than the waist circumference.

Divide the waist measurement (including gathering allowance) by the number of half-circles you want and draw as explained earlier.

The shape and large surface of the resulting pattern cause some difficulties in cutting the skirt.

In Fig. 231 shows three options for the arrangement of pattern parts on striped fabric. Method of cutting a skirt according to fig. 231,b is the most economical. For striped fabrics, cutting according to Fig. 231, v.

Rice. 231

The location of the seams depends on the model. To imagine the placement of the strips along the seams, transfer the strips of fabric onto the pattern and connect the parts of the pattern. If the fabric is significantly narrower than the skirt, separate the part of the pattern that does not decrease in width of the fabric (take into account the width of the edge), and move it along the length of the fabric, maintaining the same direction of the warp threads (Fig. 232).

Rice. 232

Cut out the part of the pattern that does not fit, leaving a margin for the seam along a straight line, and coordinate this part along the seam with the second part of the pattern. The location of this seam greatly affects the appearance of the skirt. You can make either vertical seams in the middle of the part (see Fig. 231, b), or extension parts (see Fig. 231, c).

Waist circumference 66cm, hip circumference 90cm.

There is a classic, you can't argue with it. We won’t argue; we use it for our own selfish purposes. Pencil skirt! We take the standard, draw reliefs, add edging, lace, tucks, or use multi-layering, for example, guipure and chiffon, and we already get something very similar to a romantic style. And there is no end to the fantasy! And we are so beautiful, different and happy!
Today we offer you finished pattern.

If you want make your own pattern skirts for a specific figure, you can use our step-by-step instructions.
Modeling a pencil skirt described earlier in several versions.
If you are the owner of a standard figure, then this READY-made pattern is for you!
FOR FREEREADY PATTERN for a pencil skirt with two reliefs on the front panel. On the back panel there is a middle seam into which a zipper is sewn. In the same seam at the bottom of the skirt there can be a slit, vent, fold or flounce. We deliberately do not mark any marks on the pattern of the back panel and do not give any allowances, leaving the right of choice to you. Allow allowance for processing according to your decision.
Pattern sizes:
waist circumference 62cm,
hip circumference 86cm,
skirt length 68cm.
The pattern is given WITHOUT seam allowances!
Preparing the pattern for work is extremely simple.
Click on the diagram located at the end of the article and skirt pattern opens in a new window.
Print out the pattern sheets, connect them according to the diagram and cut them out.
Be sure to check the scale. On a printed sheet with a 10x10 cm square depicted, sides of 10 cm should correspond to exactly 10 centimeters.
Compare the sizes of the patterns with your measurements. Make changes if necessary.
After that, start cutting. Do not forget give seam allowances and additional allowances in those places where clarification is possible during fitting.
Having swept away the details, try on the skirt, make all the necessary adjustments and start sewing.
If you wish, you can change the finished pattern according to your preferences. For example, change the configuration of the reliefs, add pockets, flaps, belts, buckles or other decorative elements. You can also adjust the length and width of the skirt at the bottom yourself.
The upper section of the skirt can be processed in various ways, for example, facing, binding, belts of different heights, etc.
I draw your attention to the following: if you are sewing a skirt from elastic fabric, then it is advisable to treat the upper cut with elastic material. For example, sew on elastic or lace with a scalloped edge, if this does not contradict the style, or finish it with a facing (belt) made of the same fabric as the skirt itself.
In the following articles we will continue this tenacious topic and will try not to ignore women of different builds.

If you have any difficulties with printing patterns, write and we will post a master class with the details of this process.