The best straight razor ever. Straight razor: the choice of real men. No environmental pollution

: how to choose your first fear and what parameters a beginner should pay attention to.

Blade width

The width of a straight razor blade varies. Right: Dovo Encina razor with 6/8" blade width

The blade width is optimal for a beginner - 5/8-6/8 inches. This is the most common value, most razors are produced in this way. It will be more difficult to shave with a narrower or, conversely, wider blade until the hand is full: it is more difficult for a narrow blade to find and hold the correct angle, a wide blade is less maneuverable and heavier (extra weight even a few tens of grams at first, when a long , will be very noticeable).

Concavity

Some variants of the concavity of straight razors. Right - Dovo Bergischer Lowe full concavity razor (1/1)

Concavity, as a rule, is ½ or 1/1 (full). Although fully concave razors are a bit more expensive, they are the best for beginners. This blade is the optimal combination of flexibility and hardness.

Head

Straight razor head options. Right - straight razor Thiers-Issard 6/8 with a round head

A round head, when you are just learning to shave carefully, is more preferable because it is more difficult to cut yourself. The most “dangerous” is the square head.

Blade steel

As a rule, the guards are made of carbon steel and less often of stainless steel. You can read about the pros and cons of both in the post. In short - carbon steel is optimal for shaving in terms of performance. True, there is a nuance here: "carbon" "carbon" - discord. Each steel manufacturer differs in composition, additives and, accordingly, quality. Some straight razors made of stainless steel (such as the Boker) behave much better when shaving than the tools of certain manufacturers, made of carbon steel.

Straight razor Boker Damast. Blade - Damascus steel

There are quite rare razors made from Damascus steel. You can buy them, only if you are 100% sure of the product. Firstly, often such “fears” are made by master cutlers who do not at all take into account the technology and standards required in the production of shaving tools; the output is just a very expensive souvenir that cannot be shaved. Secondly, there are many fakes. A professional will calculate them without difficulty, it will be much more difficult for an ordinary buyer. Real Damascus razors are made by famous manufacturers (like Boker), and they are expensive - more than 1,000 euros.

Manufacturers

There are many manufacturers, but not many make a truly high-quality instrument. Good razors can be found, for example, at

Despite the fact that in the field of combating excess facial hair, the strong half of humanity has innovative inventions, straight razors do not lose their positions. Many men who have learned how to manage them are not ready to give preference to other methods of facial care, because “fear” guarantees a quality result.

Straight Razor History

The invention of a dangerous razor is associated with the period BC - the first stone scraper performed this function. Also, the soldiers shaved off their hair, which did not allow the enemy to grab them during the battle. Thus, a fashion for a shaved face appeared - it began to be considered a sign of a civilized person. Tribes that did not shave their beards began to be considered barbaric.
Over time, the razor has changed its shape more than once, but its design has remained the same. In hairdressing salons of those times, a straight razor was widely used for hair removal; only barbers with experience could handle such a tool. Until the invention of the personal razor was invented in the 18th century, the Frenchman Jean-Jacques Perret added a wooden casing to the sharp blade. After that, "fear" changed only its design.

straight razor design

The appearance of this tool is very simple - it is a handle and a blade connected by a rivet. At the same time, the best straight razors in the world can be called a work of art. The handle performs a protective function against damage and loss of sharpness of the blade. It is made of wood, plastic, as well as horns or bones of an animal and another.
The soul of a razor is the blade. It consists of a canvas, a neck and a ponytail. From the inside of the neck (earl) there is a peppered corrugation, which prevents cuts. The blade is divided into cutting edge, back, head and heel. In the description of the model, there is a value in fractions, which means the width of the blade (it is measured in eighths of an inch). For a beginner to use such a tool, the best choice is a 5/8 warp blade width.
The concavity of the width of the blades is also indicated in fractions: it can be simple, full and with a deep radius groove (1/2 or 1/4, 1/1). The degree of concavity determines the shape of the cutting edge: the larger it is, the easier it is to edit the blade, and sharpening is less often needed. Any "fear" is corrected by the entire plane, while it is important that the sharpening angle is 12 degrees.

straight razor rating

The preferences of men in this area are strictly individual, but there are time-tested manufacturers whose product quality is beyond doubt. These include: Dovo, Thiers-Issard, Timor, Feather. The most famous in the world are the craftsmen from the city of Solingen, who managed to create singing razors. Among many other manufacturers of "fear", they stood out for their ability to sharpen blades.

When shaving with their tools, a rustling rustle is heard, for which they were called singing - they are the standard of quality for all "fears". This city gave the world the Timor and Dovo brands. When choosing a straight razor, the manufacturer's rating plays an important role, as leading manufacturers adhere to uncompromising product quality.
The TOP 5 most popular "fear" looks like this:

Name

Pen

Blade

Blade width

Concavity

Advantages

celluloid with imitation mother-of-pearl

5/8 inch

1/1

ideal parameters, the shaving process is effective and comfortable, stylish appearance of the product

red diamond wood

carbon steel C135

5/8 inch

cuts all hairs under the root, embossing on wood protects against slipping, easy to use

ebony

100% carbon steel (restores original shape)

5/8 inch

1/2

excellent sharpening, excellent cutting properties, stylish appearance

acrylic

carbon steel 309

5/8 inch

provides a close shave, ease of movement

organic olive tree

carbon steel

4/8 inch

cuts hairs from the very bottom, glides easily, does not cause redness and irritation

Choosing a low-quality tool from an unknown manufacturer means throwing money away.

Opaskas have to compete with electrical appliances that took over the market in the 70s of the last century, and not only. The surge in fashion for hand shaving tools began in the late 80s of the last century, when Dovo began to position them as a special, stylish and convenient accessory. Using a straight razor does not tolerate haste - a man has to stop and plunge into an almost meditative state.
In addition, hand tools have a number of practical advantages:
the quality of shaving is much superior to the machine;
it is possible to use any cosmetics;
if you have the skill - the procedure is fast.

"Opaska" is regarded as a stylish image tool that adds brutality to the image. However, they also have disadvantages - even the best straight razor for men requires certain skills in handling, and you can easily get hurt with it.

conclusions

Purchasing a straight razor from a well-known manufacturer is an excellent choice that will add style and masculinity to a man. A quality tool from a well-known brand is easy to use, pleases with a smooth shave and can serve the owner for many years. You can buy a razor as a gift - a man will surely appreciate such care.

How to shave without a razor? There are very few such methods, and they are all barbaric: a sharp knife, a lighter or a waffle towel. Modern men choose safer methods. Someone prefers the machine, because it is easy to use, it is almost impossible for them to get hurt. Someone likes them better, which only touch the bristles and do not cling to the top layer of the skin. But the classic option is still considered a dangerous razor.

What should a beginner choose? Straight razor or alternative tools, which is better? Consider the nuances in today's publication.

The tool first came to hand

What is the reason to change the usual way of shaving with a straight razor?

There may be two:

  1. Sensitive skin;
  2. Closer shave;
  3. Style and memories of past times.

In my case, it was sensitivity. Each touch of the machine caused wild discomfort, and the process itself took a lot of time. Fortunately, two old Soviet straight razors were lying around at home, which lay for more than a dozen years without action. This, one might say, is antiques, undeservedly forgotten appliances. And the first thing I had to do was figure out how to sharpen a razor. After that, figure out how to shave with a dangerous razor. Due to inexperience and the fact that the fear was old, of course there were cuts, but the effect was unsurpassed.

Advantages and disadvantages of using


The pros and cons of the tool are obvious. The positive features include:

  • Smoother skin;
  • Possibility to sharpen independently;
  • Soap solution can be used before the process; gel, foam and even oil;
  • Saving money;
  • Multifunctionality.

The name clearly reflects the disadvantage - a high probability of cutting yourself due to inexperience or improper use.

I was able to find a suitable one - half the job is done

Shaver width ratio

For novice connoisseurs of such things, the first question is: how to choose a straight razor. Firstly, you should not chase the price and immediately buy the most expensive one, because its cost is not small, but it may happen that a specific method simply does not work. Secondly, the sharpening of the razor must be of high quality. It is better for a beginner to choose a shaving knife with a round head. A properly sharpened and straightened blade can protect the skin from cuts and wounds. In addition, dangerous shaving will be available in the most remote and inconvenient places. The most unsafe shape is considered square.

Do not forget that the site has articles about growing a beard. I highly recommend mine.

Men's fear cuts heal quickly, but the best option is to sharpen a straight razor and round its edges, making them smooth. This process can be done independently (medium and coarse stones for sharpening a straight razor are suitable for this), or you can use the services of a specialist. When choosing a shaving blade, it is better to pay attention to a wider one, with a narrow one there can be problems, especially for inexperienced people. It is out of ignorance that some men complain: how to shave with a dangerous razor if it leaves wounds on the neck and cheeks?

When making a choice, remember also that a dangerous razor made of low-quality steel wears off quickly. Therefore, ask the seller about the content of the alloy. One of the main indicators is the carbon content, the more it is, the longer the device remains sharp.

How to learn to hold correctly in your hands, then success is guaranteed

How to shave with a straight razor? In my experience, shaving with a straight razor is not going to be fun or good if you don't understand how to hold a straight razor. In fact, the technique of shaving with a straight razor is not so difficult. I'll tell you some secrets on how to shave with a dangerous razor correctly:

  • First you need to thoroughly lather your face with a brush. The more foam there is, the easier the process will go.
  • At this time, it is worth putting the razor into a glass of warm water. Then you need to lean the wide part against your face, and raise the straight razor at an angle of 40 degrees.

Correct grip

  • The sharp blade stays in contact with the skin. If you learn how to hold it correctly and follow the direction of "hair growth", then clean and smooth skin is guaranteed. In addition, you can’t put pressure on the skin at all, the movements should be smooth and light. Then you can avoid unpleasant cuts.

The technique of shaving with a straight razor is not difficult, but requires regular practice. Details below.

Use of fear on the skin

The question of proper shaving with a dangerous razor excites everyone who has ever had it in their hand. As practice has shown, there should be a strong tension of the skin. That is, with the leading hand we hold the device, and with the second we stretch the skin from above in the opposite direction. It is necessary to hold constantly so that dangerous shaving is easy. The process takes place in two stages: first, the blade goes in the direction of bristle growth, and then against. A straight razor will either make the skin perfectly smooth or leave a lot of cuts: it all depends on technique and experience.

When processing "by growth" the longest hair is removed. In this case, only small black dots or short, poorly cut bristles remain. At the second stage, you should re-lather the beard and brush off the remaining hair at a deeper level. After the end of the process, the face should be moistened with cool water, and then use the product for sensitive skin if irritation appears on it. That's all the training on how to properly shave with a straight razor.

Tool Care

To keep your razor looking like new, you need to know how to use your straight razor after you've finished shaving. We must not forget that it is easy to cut yourself with this thing during maintenance, but at the same time, you should never leave it wet. The tool is made of steel, which tends to rust if not cared for. To avoid this, it is enough to dry the razor with a napkin.

We must not forget about security measures and neglect them. Provide a case for a dangerous razor made of dense material, a tool made of high-quality steel is dangerous because it can easily cut your fingers. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to lubricate the guard with engine oil at least once a month. This is the surest option so that rust does not appear. Then even the old fear will look like new.

If you are too lazy to perform all these procedures, a dangerous razor with replaceable blades will do. As soon as the blade wears off, it is simply changed.

Sharpening on a bar, stone, sandpaper


On its own, the razor does not hold the sharpening that was at the beginning, if you do not additionally take care of it. And sharpening a straight razor is a must. If this moment is missed, scratches and scars cannot be avoided. How to sharpen and what is special? This process is called honing, and has several methods. For the first, an ordinary dressing bar is suitable. The same stone is used for knives. A blade razor will be sharp if you moisten the sharpener with water, and holding the blade, carefully move along the stone. The effect will be better if the stone is the same width as the accessory itself or even more. It is imperative that both the body and the tip of the tool lie on the bar, and first you need to lead and sharpen the razor completely on one side, and then on the other. If the stone is smaller than the blade, then it is necessary to take into account the sharpening angle yourself, which a beginner may not be able to do. Sharpening a dangerous razor at home is also carried out using sandpaper. Abrasive, though quickly erased, but it is not expensive. If the straight razor is made of hardened steel, it is better not to use sandpaper.

Sharpening on jeans

What are some ways to sharpen a straight razor? It turns out that at home you can sharpen on jeans. For this you need:

  • Turn out pants;
  • Spread on a flat surface;
  • Put a bar or other flat object under the fabric;
  • Start grinding on jeans, first in one direction and then the other.

This is a simple way to sharpen a razor with jeans.

What is editing and why is it needed

Straight razor straightening is the process of straightening the edges at the end of an accessory. For this, a straightening belt and linen fabric are used. It will be easier to sharpen a dangerous thing correctly if the straightening strap of a straight razor is wider than the length of the tool. In this case, it is easy to completely fit the guard on the belt. If the size is smaller, then you will have to move the blade each time so that it moves evenly and is equally sharp everywhere.

How to edit a straight razor? To avoid problems, follow the instructions. The process is different than how to sharpen a straight razor. Here we are working not so much with the blade as with the blade itself - i.e. all instrument. The belt for editing the fear is in such a position that it is convenient to direct the tip towards it. The angle of sharpening is not too important. The straight razor sharpening strap should be kept as tight as possible. The main thing is to try to lean the blade more tightly against its surface. If the belt loosens, then nothing will come of it. Upon completion of the process, the instrument will produce a characteristic sound. That's all the nuances of how to edit a dangerous razor.

And most importantly, keep the right angle:

See also:

How to keep the right angle when sharpening

Models made in different countries

We have discussed how to shave with caution, so I will say a few more words about eminent manufacturers. The German apprehension is considered a model of quality all over the world. Razor Solingen from the city of the same name was considered the best. Only good blades were made there. Henkels was considered the most popular. A straight razor from England is a shavette. It differs in many ways from the previous one. The most important thing is that this straight razor has replaceable blades. Shavett and Soligen are still considered exemplary instruments to this day. Japan is a country where the Japanese fears of the Titan company are in the first place. Mahogany from Madagascar is used to make the hilts of these blades. And this is not so much a tribute to fashion or style as a necessity. Mahogany from Madagascar does not swell with water and prevents the formation of bacteria, which subsequently lead to damage to the instrument and skin irritation.

Old Russian-made razors used to be made of damask steel. Most of the time it was handmade. The cover for fear was made of genuine leather. But even in the USSR there was a well-known factory where vacha labor was made, which is now sold at auctions. By the way, if you decide to buy an instrument online, pay attention to those models that include a case for your accessory in the kit. Finally, it is worth saying that a straight razor made of damask steel is best suited for beginners. This is a medical alloy, so cuts will heal faster than other blades.

And remember, if you doubt your abilities, then you can always go to a session.

Quite unexpectedly, razors have turned from a utilitarian item in a men's travel bag into ultra-technological examples of space technology. A modern razor not only fulfills its intended purpose, but also has completely incomprehensible properties. The interface of some allows you to share the shaving process on social networks - hey, friends, I shaved! Don't get us wrong: we are not against technological solutions. Some things are just better done in a slightly different way. Based on this simple thought, we decided to collect for you some of the best straight razors in the world.

Utopia Care Stainless Steel Barber Razor

pros: does not require sharpening
Minuses: disposable blades

A good buy: A very, very good razor can be a really good investment. A passionate supporter of a dangerous shave is unlikely to prefer to have this in his travel bag, but for a beginner it is just right. Utopia Care does not cause any complaints, fits comfortably in the hand and looks great. In addition, its operation does not require any effort at all. Even the blade does not need to be sharpened: interchangeable ones are used here.

Dovo Silver Shavette Satin Finish

pros: ideal for carrying
Minuses: overly light handle

Traveler's Choice: DOVO is a company with a name. For a hundred years, the guys have been making the best straight razors in Europe, specializing only in them. One can imagine how much the masters managed to understand the matter during all this time. The frame of the razor is made in Germany, the stainless steel body is very light. Silver Shavette, of course, is not destined to become a family heirloom, but as a travel companion, that's it.

Feather SS

pros: easy blade replacement
Minuses: clumsy

Homework: Standard straight razors are foldable, which saves your hands from the blade while transporting the tool. But SS masters rely on stationary work, which turns Feather SS into the choice of a professional barber. The resin-filled handle feels like a glove in your hand and will not slip out of your hand even if you decide to single-handedly defeat a whole battalion of enemies.

Boker King Cutter

pros: very, very sharp blade requiring careful maintenance
Minuses: minimalist style

german hit: Manufactory Cutter is famous in the circles of masters and aesthetes of the genre - almost every work becomes a real hit. Boker King Cutter cannot be called an exception. The blade is made of high quality carbon steel. The proprietary alloy contains silver impurities. The handle can be ordered in a variety of styles, from tortoise shell to mammoth bone. However, the latter option will cost you a fortune, but what can not be done for the sake of style.

Thiers-Issard Eagle

pros: individual solution
Minuses: price!

Exclusive work: A young man can try to get an entry-level straight razor just to see if he likes this style. A man can buy a more serious tool just to be able to diversify the shaving process. But only an aesthetic gentleman is able to throw as much money on a straight razor as a high-quality Thiers-Issard Eagle product costs. The founder of the company began to learn how to make razors at the age of 10 and spent his whole life doing this. There are simply no two identical Thiers-Issard Eagle razors in the world - the master customizes each work according to the client's requests. The cost starts from $500.

Be prepared for the fact that it is unlikely that you will get a perfect shave the first time, most likely, at first you will not succeed at all and only by training will you be able to achieve the necessary skill. You may even realize that this is not your thing at all. Don't be discouraged, other ways to get rid of stubble are just as courageous. And yet, it is worth trying this alluring tool in action. So how do you choose a straight razor?

When shopping for your first straight razor, here are some tips to try:

  • Get a razor with a round head - a blade of this shape, firstly, is the most convenient. With it, you can easily shave in hard-to-reach places. Secondly, by using a round blade, you reduce the risk of cutting yourself. After all, for example, the square shape of the blade has sharp edges that can cause a cut.
  • If, nevertheless, your choice fell on a razor with a square blade, it is better to dull the edges with a rough stone. For the safety of both you and the razor itself, it is better to use the services of a razor specialist.
  • Buy a wider razor. A blade that is too narrow will make it uncomfortable for you to adhere to the angle of contact with the skin.
  • It is best to buy a carbon steel straight razor for the first time.
  • Do not buy products with drawings and gilding - this is impractical. Over time, all this will be erased and the razor will lose its presentation. The only possible decoration option is engraving or branding.
  • Expensive price is not always a guarantee of better quality. Very often you will simply overpay for a well-known brand, a fashionable manufacturer's name. It is better to read reviews on the Internet, consult with friends who have already chosen a “dangerous” shave.


How not to buy a fake

The market is littered with Chinese counterfeits of almost any existing product. Straight razors are no exception. Outwardly, it is not so easy to recognize a low-quality product. You will notice the catch already when using it. Razors will instantly become dull and even crumble.

The main features of a pseudo-razor:

  • A high-quality razor has a brand, while a fake has a logo applied with paint, which, from contact with hands, will quickly be erased by water.
  • There is not even a drawing or it is there, but applied crookedly.
  • There is a “supply” on the edge of the blade, but not on the back. (“The lead” is the plane from the sharpening of the razor.)


It is important to know

Having bought even a high-quality good straight razor, if you don’t know how to sharpen it, you simply won’t be able to immediately try out the tool, because even in the most expensive stores they sell razors not sharpened. The manufacturer, of course, sharpens the blade, but not to the point where the razor will really work wonders. If you try to shave, you will simply tear the stubble and scratch the skin.

Razor Care

In order for the shaving accessory to serve you faithfully for a long time, you need a careful attitude and careful care for it. After each use, be sure to rinse the razor with water and dry it. Store it in a dry, ventilated area. Periodically lubricate with paraffin oil. Don't drop your razor. The slightest chip or other defect will affect the quality of shaving. Instead of an even, smooth shave, you'll end up with torn hair and scratched skin. Never use the tool for purposes other than intended, such as cutting animals or cutting paper, etc. This will lead to nicks.