Line the jacket with new fabric. What to sew a jacket for the winter? What to sew a down jacket from? To make a down jacket, you will also need

Tired of your old jacket? Want something new and different? Sew a new jacket, or rather remake an old winter jacket with a new one. If you like exclusive things and easily cope with the "needle and thread", go ahead! If you are a beginner, nothing terrible, just carefully follow the progress of work and follow the instructions. In this master class, you will learn how to update a jacket with a synthetic winterizer with a hood to an attractive unrecognizable.

You will need:

1. Lightning 60 cm - 1 pc.
2. Lightning 20 cm - 3 pcs.
3. Tailor's scissors.
4. Ripper or small scissors.
5. Tailor pins.
6. Sewing machine.
7. Machine needle No. 100.
8. Threads 1 pc.

The original look of the jacket bought in a regular store:

Sleeve update

First of all, rip off the sleeves from the jacket.

Then rip off the cuffs at the bottom of the sleeves.

We tear off the old inserts on the sleeves to replace them with new ones.

When sewing the jacket, the inserts were connected by machine stitching with a padding polyester, so you need to rip off the padding polyester from the fabric.

We cut out new inserts from the finishing fabric, using the old inserts as a pattern.

We connect the cut inserts with a synthetic winterizer.

Peel off and stitch the inserts on the sleeves, guided by the old lines. Make sure that the finishing stitches on the sleeves are at the same level when sewing.

Lay the finishing stitches on the front side. To get rid of the imprints of old lines, gently steam them with an iron, while slightly touching the fabric itself. Thus, you will not only get rid of traces of stitches, reduce the thickness of the seams and direct the allowances in the right directions.

Cuff connection

Pin the cuffs with pins from the bottom of the sleeves.

Sew the seams on the sleeves so that the horizontal/diagonal lines along the sleeves match when sewing. Iron the seams, do not press the sole of the iron strongly, as the synthetic winterizer is deformed under the influence of temperature and steam.

Sleeve pocket finishing

The sleeve pocket on ski suits is designed to hold the lift pass while skiing or snowboarding. Such a pocket is made on the left sleeve so as not to get a pass card every time when going to the lift.

Mark the location of the pocket on the sleeve with 3 lines, cut along the center line with scissors, not reaching the limiting lines by 1.0 - 1.5 cm. Then cut into a corner, not reaching the limiting line by 0.2 cm.

For the convenience of further processing the pocket, lay the lines along the lines and sew the zipper, bending the allowances.

Cut a pocket burlap (10.0 cm) and sew it on the wrong side to the pocket entry allowances.

On the front side, lay finishing stitches 0.1 cm from the zipper, which will secure the zipper tape and burlap.

From the wrong side, connect the burlap to each other and sew on a typewriter.

On the front side, fold the corners to the wrong side and place the bartacks with a zigzag stitch.

Shelf and back update

Replacement of decorative inserts on the back

Before proceeding with the update of the back, shorten the back at the bottom to the desired length, taking into account the processing allowances. In this case, the bottom of the jacket will be piping, so 1.0 cm will be enough. Shorten the back lining exactly as long as you shortened the back itself.

Open the inserts and back yoke. Spread the side seams and connect the inserts with the padding polyester in the above way. Connect the inserts to the back details, lay the finishing lines.

Stitch the yoke to the back and lay the finishing stitches.

Replacement of decorative inserts on the shelf

The process of updating the shelf is almost identical to the process of updating the back. The only nuance is the pockets with zippers in the relief seams.

Therefore, you will have to be patient and carefully monitor the technology from the photo.

Open the shelf inserts by opening the yoke and zipped pockets.

Unzip the jacket.

Immediately shorten the bottom of the shelf to the desired length, leaving an allowance for the bottom of 1.0 cm. According to the model, the bottom of the shelf is shorter than the back and is shaped with a curly line. Therefore, cut off the excess in advance to avoid wasting fabric on inserts. Shorten the lining of the shelf by the same amount as the shelf itself. Mark the new location of the pockets along the raised seams.

Zip pocket processing

Sew one part of the zipper to the side part of the shelf.

For one, we sew one side of the pocket burlap.

Then we sew the second part of the zipper to the front part of the shelf and the second side of the pocket burlap.

Here's what should happen:

On the wrong side, connect the ends of the pocket zipper with the ends of the inserts. Be guided by the marked upper and lower control lines, which determine the distance to enter the pocket.

Now, it is necessary to sew decorative inserts on the shelf, in the previously mentioned way.

Lay the finishing stitches along the seams.

And along the line of entry into the pocket.

More information on how to make a zipper pocket in articles and.

Coquette connection

Stitch the yoke to the shelf. Lay finishing lines on the front side.

Connect the shelf and back along the side seams, align the bottom.

If, when connecting the side seams, cuts and punctures from the old line remain on the front side, then they can be decoratively disguised:

Sleeve sewing

After the shelf, back and sleeves are updated, you can start connecting the sleeves to the product.

Find the centers on the sleeves, align them with the shoulder seams, and the sleeve seam with the side seams. Pin and tuck the sleeves into the armholes so that there is a slight fit at the top of the sleeves. This will give the sleeves a lift at the top and eliminate creases at the armholes. Stitch the sleeves into the armholes on the side of the sleeves.

Lining connection

Connecting the lining to the sleeves

Turn the sleeves inside out, align the seams of the sleeves with the seams of the sleeves on the lining. Connect the bottom of the lining of the sleeves with the sleeves of the product along the sewing seam of the cuff, around the wrong side. Thus, the sections: cuffs, bottom of the sleeves and bottom of the sleeves of the lining will be inside.

On the wrong side, fasten the seam allowances of the connection of the sleeves with the lining for the vertical allowances inside the sleeve.

Bottom processing

Cut out a piping to match the shape of the bottom of the jacket from a 4.0 cm wide trim fabric.

Sew the facing to the bottom of the lining, but before that, cut the lining along the shelves near the edges to a width of 3.0 cm and smoothly lead the line to the bottom cut.

When connecting the piping to the ribs vertically, the piping must match the bottom of the ribs and not violate the length of the lining on the shelves.

From the front side along the facing, lay the machine fluff. Continue the side seams on the lining along with the piping.

What is machine flash refer to the dictionary: and

Then connect the facing with the bottom of the product.

How to sew a zipper into a jacket

We sew one part of the zipper to the part of the shelf, as usual, using a one-sided foot.

The second part of the zipper is sewn in almost the same way, but the problem is in the buttons. They are too close to the seam. Therefore, in places where there are buttons, the zipper will not have to be sewn. From the back side, it will look like this:

When connected, the stitching will go where it is most accessible, as close to the buttons as possible.

Next, you need to sew the lining to the zipper. There are two ways: you can sew a zipper in one step, baste the zipper to the product, baste the lining and sew with one line. The second option: sew the zipper first, then sew the lining.

After one side of the zipper with buttons is sewn in, you need to attach the lining to the other part of the zipper. If this is done at the beginning, there will be difficulties in processing the zipper with buttons.

Turn the jacket right side out, supporting the seam on one of the sleeves. After that, the seam must be sewn on a typewriter.

From the front side of the zipper with buttons, in the places of the buttons, cut out the zipper braid, as shown in the following:

Carefully melt the slices with matches or a lighter.

Then carefully sew the zipper to the product with hidden stitches so that it is inside.

Sew finishing stitches on both sides of the zipper.

A down jacket is a fairly versatile and functional element of outerwear that can protect you even from the most severe frosts. Sometimes, unfortunately, for some reason, the products offered on the market or in stores simply do not fit. But don't give up right away. We will tell you how to sew a down jacket with your own hands. As a result, you will receive a high-quality sewn and designer product that will suit you, taking into account the characteristics of your figure, and the costs will be several times less.

How to sew a down jacket with your own hands? Master Class

To sew this type of outerwear, you will need the following tools and materials:

• 1.5-2 meters of main fabric for exterior decoration;
• 1.5 meters of lining fabric;
• 500-600 grams of fluff;

Important! You can use both natural down and its various synthetic analogues, such as isosoft or thinsulate, for filler.

• 3 meters of fabric for the inside;
• Detachable zipper 80-85 centimeters long;
• Narrow and flexible braid;
• Tailor's needles;
• Tailor's marker or remnant;
• Tape measure;
• Threads in color;
• needles;
• Scissors;
• Sewing machine.

Important! Pay attention to the fact that for the exterior finish, the fabric must be water-repellent with a special impregnation.

Once everything is prepared, you can safely proceed to the process of making a down jacket with your own hands. The procedure is as follows:

• First, build a full-size pattern for the future product. For these purposes, you can use absolutely any model you like.

Important! The pattern should be one size larger. This is due to the fact that the finished product is compacted due to the down lining.

• Cut out the elements of the blanks for the outer and inner parts.

Important! Remember to leave 1.5-2 centimeters of fabric for allowances.

• Make side and shoulder seams on the elements intended for the inside of the product. After - fold them with the front sides and stitch the necks and fasteners.
• Stuff the finished blank with fluff and quilt with squares measuring 6x6 centimeters.
• Fold the elements of the sleeves with the right sides and stitch them, while leaving a cut along the armhole.
• Stuff the sleeves with down and quilt them in the same way as the main workpiece.
• Stitch the elbow sections of the sleeves, then sew them into the armholes.
• Connect all the details of the hood, stitch it into the upper part of the down jacket.

Important! For a hood, instead of a lining, you can use a regular synthetic winterizer.

• Sew all cuffs. To do this, cut out a rectangle equal to the width of the cuff x2, and a length equal to the girth of the wrist + 3 centimeters from the main fabric. Fold them in half and stitch the side seams.
• Fold the finished part inside out and lay parallel lines, while leaving an unsewn space equal to 1 centimeter on each line.
• Using pins, pull the braid through the unsewn hole.
• Insert the inner and lining into the blank for the upper part.
• Align all the cuts, fix them with tailor's pins.
• Sew all three layers of the future product along the side and shoulder seams.
• At the neck of the lining, fold the cut to the wrong side. Stitch it to the hood sewing seam.
• Sew finished cuffs to the bottom of the sleeves.
• Bend the bottom hem to the wrong side, stitch it.

How to update a down jacket with your own hands?

If you have an old down jacket lying around in your closet, do not rush to throw it away immediately. Having basic skills in cutting and sewing, you can create a unique designer item from an old piece of outerwear. In order to sew such a down jacket with your own hands, you will need the following materials and tools:

1. Old down jacket;
2. 60 centimeters of synthetic winterizer;
3. Water-repellent fabric 2.5 meters;
4. Lining fabric 1.7 meters;
5. Detachable lock 70 and 40 centimeters long;
6. Sewing machine;
7. Scissors;
8. needles;
9. Threads in color;
10. Tailor's pins;
11. Tailor's marker or remnant.

Important! Please note that the indicated fabric parameters are for size 46-48. If your parameters are different, then the amount of fabric must be purchased based on them.

Once the necessary inventory has been prepared, you can proceed directly to work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Pull out the filler from the old down jacket, then cut it into pattern details.
• Applying the old parts to the main fabric, cut out new ones. Thus, you should get:
  1. 2 shelves;
  2. Back;
  3. 2 sleeves;
  4. Collar;
  5. 2 details of the middle of the hood;
  6. 4 side hood details.
• From the padding polyester, cut out 2 side and 1 central part of the hood, as well as 1 part of the collar.
• Cut out from the main fabric of the selection and 2 burlap pockets.
• From the lining fabric, cut out all the main details.

Important! All details that are cut out of the lining fabric should be 1 centimeter shorter than the same ones, only from the main one.

• Attach the upper parts from the main fabric with the same ones from the insulation, grind them.

Important! On the right shelf, the insulation should be sewn manually.

• From the wrong side, pin a piece of padding polyester to the bar so that it goes over the old insulation.
• Stitch the synthetic winterizer to the insulation along the edges of the plank.
• Lay the seams with a sewing machine from the neck to the bottom of the shelf.
• Lay the zipper with the outer side on the upper shelf from the neck to the cut, directing it down. Attach the zipper.
• Fold the right shelf with the left front side inward so that the middle of the front remains free.
• Unscrew the zipper on the left shelf to the cut, and pin the right side to the cut of the right shelf.
• Stitch the shoulder seams and iron the allowances.
• Stitch the side seams from the armhole to the top edge of the pocket opening. Iron them.
• Attach the pocket burlap from the main fabric to the back, turn it forward, align it. Attach in this form to the back.
• Stitch the lining shelves to the pick-ups, iron the seams.
• Sew side and shoulder seams, as well as allowances.
• Attach a loop of tuck cord to the center of the back.
• Fold the top of the down jacket with the lining facing inward, sew the sides.
• Chop off the collar with a padding polyester, grind along the edge.
• Put a zipper from the hood on the cut and, combining the middle of the collar, stitch.
• Unscrew the free ends of the zipper tape to the cut.
• Fold the collar in half lengthwise with the front side inward, sew the sides. Unfold and straighten the corners.
• Baste the collar with the neck of the down jacket, as well as the upper part of the back and lining. Stitch them with a sewing machine.
• Stitch the seams on the sleeves, planting them along the okats.
• Turn the sleeves inside out and sew them into the lining.
• Align the shoulder seams of the top and lining, while matching them with the sleeves.
• Turn the hem of the bottom of the down jacket to the wrong side, sweep a centimeter from the fold, not reaching the middle of the front.
• Fasten the bottom hem in several places.
• Turn the down jacket right side out through the gap in the lining.
• Stitch the bar, sew buttons in several places.
• Sew the side elements of the hood to the middle part.
• Unfasten half of the lock from the collar and put it on the bottom of the hood with the outer side, align the middle, stitch.
• Sweep the outer sides of the hood together, lay a machine line 2 centimeters from the fold.
• Stitch the bottom of the hood, fasten it to the down jacket.
• Remove all threads from the running seams.

Your new down jacket is ready!

The use of warm and cold seams in down jackets. For several years I worked at an enterprise for tailoring down clothes, headed by the author of the book "Tourist's Atelier" Brink I.Yu., which describes in detail the technology for manufacturing such products.

I do not pretend to be the ultimate truth (we just did it) and I will not touch on the very basics of sewing clothes with down filling, so I omit the questions of what materials the down bags are made of, how many layers they include, how the filling with down is done, how the compartments are closed and etc.

Cold seams - this is the connection of the layers of the down package with a line through. This technology allows you to create compartments of the desired size and shape, but does not provide the same thickness of insulation (it is minimal near the stitching and maximum in the middle of the down compartment, A is not equal to B). If you really want a beautiful stitch, then cold seams are quite applicable.

If the thermal protection of the product is more important, and beauty is a little less, it is logical to use warm seams. I most often saw warm seams on products of a straight silhouette and a rather large volume - these were suits for the harsh northern oil workers))

Warm seams are a method of sewing a down bag, in which narrow (3-5 cm) strips of braid or fabric are sewn between the layers of material over the entire width of the part, the so-called. bulkheads. Bulkheads allow you to maintain the stability of the thickness of the insulation in the product (A equals B).

You need to understand that a product with warm seams no longer turns out to be as beautifully “inflated” as with cold seams (although a certain bulge of the compartments is preserved). Therefore, most often I saw such seams on internal insulating down packages. At the same time, the product itself can have constructive lines of arbitrary shape, they can not be tied to the geometry of the stitches (or not to quilt the top layer at all).

First, the individual parts of the product are prepared:
Bulkheads are adjusted to individual parts of the insulation package - on the shelves, on the back and sleeves according to the markup, first on one part of the down package, then on the other. Only after that, a partial line along the contour is performed on the part (below I described the methods for processing shoulder seams and sewing the sleeve into the armhole, in which this contour line is not needed), holes are left for filling and the compartments are filled with fluff.
Bulkheads are dissected near the cuts of the parts.

Often, ordinary edging tape is used as bulkheads, which is 15-32 mm wide. (Using the width of this tape, you can adjust the thickness of the down layer). Sometimes narrow strips of the same material from which the fluff bag is made are cut out for bulkheads. If the bulkhead does not end at the cut of the part, then the next strip is overlapped on the previous one and the line is continued. The braid should be soft enough, keeper and rep ribbons will not work, they are hard.

1. Shoulder seams can be assembled in the usual, cold way, or otherwise (it will be warmer): the upper compartments, closest to the shoulder seams, are made smaller in height than the lower ones, about 2 times:

Shoulder seams are connected in layers separately:

It turns out a single compartment of the down package in the shoulder area. Under the weight of the package, the layers on the shoulders of course flatten a little, but with this method it is then convenient to sew the sleeve into the armhole using a bulkhead.

2. The side seams of the product, the lower seams of the sleeves and the crotch seams of the trousers (this is if you suddenly sew trousers with down filler) can also be collected both in a cold way, as well as to make them voluminous. Most often, these seams are joined in a cold way, i.e. they simply grind off, flattening the ends of the bulkheads. I have been thinking for a couple of days about whether it is worth making a voluminous and unflattened down bag in the side area? To do this, you must first connect the side seams of the product, and then stitch the bulkheads on the camp from one side through the back to the second side. And the sleeves can be confused and assembled with ring bulkheads. Can. But why? Probably, we do not need extra volume under the arms, so we connect the side seams of the back and front and the lower seams of the sleeves in the most usual way, as in any other product.

3. But the sleeve is sewn into the product with a bulkhead so that its upper compartment does not flatten: the bulkhead is sewn along the line of the sleeve, first to one part of the package, then to another. Then the sleeve is sewn into the armhole of the product in the same way, in 2 steps. With this method of sewing in the sleeve, the preliminary contour line on the armhole of the shelf and back is not laid, the compartments are filled with fluff after the sleeve has been sewn in.

4. The collar in a down product, as a rule, is a single compartment and is sewn into the product in the usual way.

Lastly, the compartments of the prepared down package are filled with down through the previously left holes and these holes are sewn up.

Hello! My name is Sasha Sanochki and I run the Second Street blog dedicated to stylish and creative clothing alterations. Every day I publish 5 new articles on this topic.

I did not personally make all of these alterations without exception. But I've been getting up at 5 a.m. for almost two years every day to find (before work) 5 fresh and interesting ideas for reworking clothes from old to stylish, translate them, process all the photos, make them in the same style, write a post and publish it . In two years they accumulated exactly 3000.

Every day I scroll through about 4,000 sites in the reader in search of materials, and only a third of their materials relate to handmade or fashion - I find the rest of the ideas in gossip columns, style coms, films, clips and even magazines like Forbes sometimes. I just want to have it all in one place.

I would like to show you at least a few of the 3000 ideas that have accumulated over 2 years on the site:

I decided to choose only 5 ideas for each of the popular types of clothing alterations in the last month, because it is difficult to choose from 3000 equally interesting ones). And I tried to choose those that can be shown here, without dragging a bunch of photos with master classes

So let's go:

5 t-shirt redesign ideas

1. Alteration of a vest:

I love alterations of vests). There is nowhere easier: a vest + a bowl of paint for dipping. Looks really cool.)

2. Playing with the texture of the T-shirt:

A long cotton T-shirt can be cut - by cutting out circles, and then washed at high temperature - the sections will twist and will not “creep” (just do not wring out in a typewriter!). Wear with a dress or leggings and a T-shirt.

3. How to tag a guy:

TeenVogue and designer Erin Fetherston come up with an idea: slather your lips with acrylic paint (fu, nasty, yup) and leave a print boldly right on the collar of his T-shirt or shirt. After drying, it remains only to iron it with the hottest possible iron - and your ex-libris on it forever. IMHO, on women's clothing somehow not very:

... and for men - that's it). A cute idea for faithful and tender lovers and a hot / playful one for notorious machos).

4. Shirt and T-shirt Dress:

What does it mean to combine beautifully)) - take a closer look - after all, the dress is actually a mix of shirts and T-shirts cut and sewn together.

5. T-shirt - blinds:

A $48 tutorial on converting two T-shirts into a sort of blinds T-shirt from Anthropologie can be found on the website, it's too detailed to copy.

5 jeans redesign ideas

1. Jeans from pieces:

I think that such a fit would not be easy to achieve if they were really sewn from pieces. So - most likely, these are thin summer jeans, on which pieces of other summer and thin ones that match in shades were sewn. And then cut off the bottom layer in places. In my opinion, there are only a couple of places where the main fabric up to the knees on top was really replaced in some area with another.

2. Ulyana Kim Dress:

Very beautiful combination of two types of jeans!

3. Isabel Marant Painted Jeans:

Painted jeans idea by Isabel Marant – permanent marker in hand - and go!

4. Men's T-shirt and Jeans Makeover:

Listen, well, this, in my opinion, is just wildly cool! Something really interesting and wearable for guys. Yes, for girls too. I think that in this way you can decorate with belts both the bag and the back of the jacket.

As a bonus to the picture - a slightly rocker way to slightly increase the length of the jeans or save those that are worn out on the knees). Although with old, stretched and worn jeans, I think it will look pathetic.

It is better to use both ideas if HE decided to quit his office plankton career and finally become a rock musician. For the first concerts - the most it).

5. Bear from old jeans. Just a bear):

5 shoe redesign ideas:

1. Men's Creative Business Shoes:

It was, yes, it was already 5 times. But in this case, I liked the performance - on strict men's shoes. With a business suit and tie, it should break the patterns of impressionable partners. You say goodbye after the meeting, they leave the table to shake your hand - and, seeing the shoes, they hang) ....

2. Shredded Converse:

Shredded Converse – the famous model of sneakers - the legends of the converse family, released last year and ideally suited the hot summer of 2010). They look desperately vintage - shabby, as if crumbling on the go. Ideal for delicate girlish dresses, relaxed knitwear, denim mini shorts and skinny jeans. They became an unusual and stylish alternative to the uniform of Moscow streets - ballet flats, gladiator sandals and sandals with webbed high heels.

The next summer is promised to be just as stuffy, so it makes sense not to throw away your old sneakers, but to repeat this "chip" on your own - at the same time save $ 80 (regular Converses cost from $ 40, and the Shredded model, which is in the photo - $ 120).

Everything is quite simple, take nail scissors - and go ahead, so below I will list only a few tips “essentially” from the source (links to all sources are in the posts on the site):

1. When cutting out the rectangles between the blocks, be sure not to cut the rectangle behind the leg, on the heel. There should have remained a dense rectangular area, conceived by the manufacturer - it is he who will hold back the entire structure in the end.

2. Converse sells these models with or without a laced tongue, depending on the color. Decide which is more convenient for you. If you decide to cut - outline the same semicircle around your fingers (the same depth) as on your favorite ballet flats - and cut boldly. It should be 1-1.5 cm wide - wider than the “rubber nose” of the sneaker. It will look like this:

3. It is convenient to make “dranina” along the cuts just with your fingers. Rub the edges well between your fingers as shown in the photo below. the lining of the converse frays more than the upper colored dense fabric - therefore it is better not to rub it, only the upper paint layer - it will quickly unravel to the width of the upper layer.

3. How to decorate men's shoes with spikes, but nobly:

In this case, one shoe would completely subdue me (especially if a casual jacket is on top).

4. Painting shoes with markers and paints:

Great shoe decor idea by artist Deborah Thomson. Deborah uses popular techniques with tattoo designs on shoes, and paints wedding shoes, etc. and so on.

5. Shoes with Painted Soles:

The original move is not to paint the shoes themselves, but only their soles. It does not bend as much as shoe socks, for example - which means that the paint in these places will not crack. Provided high heels - and it will be seen well. For example, I always notice yellow price tags on shoes that are not torn off in these places when I follow someone along the path)).

5 Dress Up Ideas

1. Constructor: Sports Tank Back & Sexy Dress:

In my opinion, very cool! In front, for sure, is the standard "sexy kitty" - and when you turn your back - you show the world the other side of yourself - athletic and perky). And the difference in color only emphasizes it.

The jumper on top - in my opinion, looks like a strap from a cheap sports backpack)).

2. Dress with slits:

A beautiful texture and a way to revive an old dress with a second one thrown over the top. On the top dress, if it is made of acetate silk, the pattern can be "burned out" with a standard wood burner. We burned whole lace collars to each other at needlework lessons at school.

3. Luminous Paints:

Remember, earlier at VDNH, for example, in the pavilion "Culture", luminous paints for fabric were sold in departments with various luminous nonsense? In such small round plastic tubes. In addition, they are often found in various stalls, especially for some reason near the railway station).

Here's what happens if you paint clothes with them:

One of my friends used such tubes (of different colors) to paint a paisley dress with such luminous colors with such luminous colors. I just put dots of different colors along the contour of different cucumbers. Since during the day this paint is translucent, and she chose the color (and the dress is motley) - during the day it was completely unnoticeable. And at night it was a bomb! It looked very even - not at all vulgar, as elegant as possible - apparently due to the subtlety of the drawing.

4. Decorate a simple dress:

Zebra - not a zebra, a mask - not a mask ... in general, like this, with the help of an appliqué, an ordinary white trapeze dress was given an almost mystical look.

5. NedoBeckham reworked turtleneck dress by Joseph Altuzarra.

A promising new designer is Jezzef Altuzarra and his idea (he clearly sympathizes with Victoria Beckham and her models) to remake a sweater dress:

You will need:
Turtleneck in cotton jersey dress (they used American Apparel).
Two shoulder pads.
Scissors, needles and threads.

The recipe for “feel a little Wicca” is simple:

Cut off the sleeves so as to leave a little "wings" at an angle.

With the rest of the sleeves, we tighten the overhead "shoulders" on one side.

We hem them from the inside to the dress, at the same time slightly bending the edges.

5 ideas for altering jackets

1. This jacket costs $ 410 - and pins in the right amount - 500-700 rubles. And every second person has a Chanel-style jacket;).

2. The idea of ​​altering the jacket from the 2011 lookbook by Junky Styling.

3. Sheer Back Blazer:

Jacket, part of the back of which was replaced with a transparent insert. In the showroom, the top of the jacket consisted of two parts, one on top of the other: when altering your jacket, you can simply cut it off and sew on the inside of the transparent fabric pleated, sewing it into the side seams:

By the way, did you pay attention to the decor of the trousers with a ribbon?

4. Another Zara Coat:

Zara seems to have finally remembered where they started and began to do “sharp” things again. Another Zara coat in my collections is another confirmation of this.

The original reverse side of the collar - usually the skin is sewn there (besides, it allows you to keep the collar "raised" - for example, I just go like that). It can be made from a beautiful tie) - here, it seems, this is done.

5 shirt makeover ideas:

1. ASOS.com shirt redesign idea:

2. Pants - saruel from a shirt:

Shirt alteration. If everything is clear with the topic (everything was cut off at the level of pockets and on an elastic band) - then an explanation for how to make panties a la "saruel" from a shirt- see under the cut:

source material).

Having outlined a semicircle, we make a collar along it.

We steam the pockets carefully - they will interfere with the material of the shirt to drape plastically.

As a result, it should turn out like this (after you sew the hole in place of the collar):

At the waist, the design is regulated by a knot).

3. Unusually "dirty" shirt:

Brilliant, unusually soiled shirt)! In a bright cage - turquoise - purple - I will definitely repeat for myself. It will be enough, I think, to dip 6/8 into black paint on a Dylon-type fabric (it does not need to be heated, boiled, and other perversions).

4. An elegant way to downsize a shirt:

5. Hybrid:

Hybrid GMO shirts and sweatshirts from Hussein Chalayan.

5 accessories ideas

1. 0_o suddenly!

Chain on a garter for stockings.

2. Congenial Clutch:

One of the few easy-to-sew clutch bags, which only benefits from ease of manufacture. And the pattern of such a clutch is nowhere simpler and is sold in every second store - just today I bought croissants at Azbuka Vkusa, for example) - in a craft bag of the ideal size for this case.

3. Ring Bracelet:

If you have been offered 8 times and you have never returned the ring back, you can make a bracelet out of them and wear it proudly, like a savage woman, a necklace from the scalps of defeated enemies. Well, like how they draw stars on planes for those shot down in battle).

4. Shoulder straps on the coat:

To make such leather shoulder straps on a coat, leather from one glove will be enough. Another thing is that they need to be “supported” with something then - for example, with a belt made of the same leather texture.

5. Bags and backpacks from leather jackets:

We wrote many times about bags made from old leather jackets. But personally, I adore, firstly, backpacks, and secondly, such a simplified, a la masculine, style in bags:

I couldn't even choose what to show you - I liked everything so much! And the prices are quite real, not overpriced.

and for a snack 5 interior ideas:

1. T-shirt rugs:

Laura is a seamstress with more than 20 years of experience and great taste. That is why she managed to build a successful business on what many are trying to make money on: recycling T-shirts from second-hand stores into carpets and rugs.

Laura's rugs always attract attention with subtle color combinations and original shapes. 20 photos - under the cut (and there you will also find a link to the photo - a master - class on crocheting a similar rug - the main thing is there - it’s clear how to hide the ends by tying cut T-shirts together). Laura herself, in my opinion, weaves them with pigtails, after which she painstakingly sews the pigtails together ( I would like to know with what machine or foot she manages to take such a thickness). It takes her 3-4 months to make one rug out of T-shirts.

2. How to decorate the wall with old magazines:

Idea by extra budget wall decor from Irina: these strips are simply folded into tubes and flattened magazine pages pasted onto the base.

Moreover, you can decorate in this way not only the wall, but also the vases:

And photo frames:

3. Bears - pillows from shirts:

Annika Jermyn makes teddy bears out of old shirts and calls them Mr._ then the individual name of each _ and sells for $75. You can even order from your own shirt. The toys are large - 40 centimeters high and 48 - wide.

4. Pillows with interesting textures:

Handmade sofa cushion with ingenious texture. For such laborious work and $ 265 is not a pity.

Although this one, for $110, a pillow with a British flag made of leather, is no worse.

5. Cool dude, yo! Mr. Ben Venom makes patchwork quilts from old T-shirts with heavy metal prints in the same style. For connoisseurs, so to speak).

In general, I invite you all to visit the "Second Street", who are interested in the topic of alterations in clothing or interior)).

PS. Lastly, we have contests going on there, participate with your ideas, the prizes will be good)!

Imagine the situation: winter is coming, and in a hurry you take out a down jacket and see that your favorite jacket is sitting on you too baggy or large enough that walking in it is uncomfortable and ugly. You can buy a new jacket or hand it in at the studio, where the craftsmen will quickly and efficiently sew your item. However, all this costs a lot of money. Don't worry, there is a third option as well. At home, it is quite possible to take in a down jacket, but you need to act carefully, following all the instructions. Then the thing will warm and delight you again.

In order to sew a down jacket on your own, you need the following tools and materials:

When choosing a needle for a sewing machine and thread, be careful! It is best to pick up sharp thin needles from No. 60 to No. 100. It is recommended to sew at low speed, because the layer of fabric and filler is quite thick. As for the threads, choose reinforced ones. They are especially durable, because they have a twisted weave and the content of various fibers.

How to fit a down jacket to a figure?

To get started, put it on, stand in front of the mirror and carefully examine yourself from all sides. Don't forget to wear whatever you plan to wear it with in the future. This will help determine the width you need and prevent the down jacket from being worn tight with a wool sweater or warm trousers in the future.

Stages of work

Once you have decided how many centimeters you need to take in a down jacket, you can proceed directly to work.

Sewing on the sides

Shortening into a jacket

If it seems to you that the down jacket is too long, and you decide to cut it yourself, then follow the instructions:

How to sew a sleeve with your own hands?

If you are not satisfied with the length of the sleeves on a down jacket, then shortening them will not be difficult. Here it is necessary to act in the same way as when trimming the bottom. By the way, now the length of the sleeve is just below the elbow. If you wear such a jacket with elongated gloves, you get a stylish and fresh look. If you are not satisfied with the fit, armhole or sleeve width, then it will be much more difficult to recut and sew it in yourself. It is possible if you have sewing experience. If you decide to do this, then pay attention to the following tips:

Do not try to recut the sleeve without a template. Even professional seamstresses always use it so that the sleeve does not twist or wrinkle when worn.

Sewing a down jacket is quite possible if you have at least minimal sewing skills. The main thing is not to rush: having cut off the excess, you will no longer be able to return it back. The quality of your work determines whether you will wear this thing in the future.