Stylized Buryat dresses. Synopsis "Buryat national costume" on fine arts, introducing children to the culture of the Buryat people. What does the national costume of the Buryats look like for women

The Buryat costume is part of the traditional culture of the people. It reflects religious and magical, ethical and aesthetic ideas, the level of spiritual and material culture, relationships and contacts with other national cultures.

Traditional Buryat men's clothing is a robe without a shoulder seam, winter - degel and summer with a thin lining - terlig. For the Trans-Baikal Buryats, the Mongols are characterized by swing clothes with the smell of the left floor on the right with one-piece sleeves. The deep smell provided warmth for the chest part of the body, which was important during long riding. Winter clothing was made from sheepskin. The edges of the degel were sheathed with plush, velvet or other fabrics. Sometimes degels were covered with cloth: for everyday work - cotton, elegant degels - with silk, brocade, semi-brocade, flaky, velvet, plush. The same fabrics were used when sewing an elegant summer terlig.

The most prestigious and beautiful were considered fabrics woven with gold or silver - Chinese silk azaa magnal - patterns, images of dragons were made of gold and silver threads. In most cases, the dressing gown was sewn from blue fabrics, sometimes the color of the dressing gown could be brown, dark green, or burgundy. The collar of the robe was most often made in the form of a stand, it was bordered around the edges with brocade braid (summer terligi), winter ones - with the skins of lambs, otters, sables.

The main decoration of the robe was on its chest part of the upper floor (enger). The degels of the Aginsk Buryats were characterized by a wide stepped enger, decorated with three rows of successively arranged strips of velvet. If the general tone of the robe was blue, which symbolized the color of the sky, which protects, patronizes a person, then the upper stripe was green - flowering earth, the middle stripe - black velvet - fertile soil that feeds all life on earth, the lower stripe - red, a symbol of fire purifying all that is filthy, dirty.

One-piece sleeves of both summer and winter men's dressing gowns were supplemented with cuffs - "turuun" (hooves). They could be detachable or cut as an extension of the sleeve. In cold weather, they were lowered, replacing mittens. In warm weather, they are raised and serve as decoration. The front part of the cuffs was sewn from velvet, fur, brocade. Cuffs symbolized cattle - the main wealth of nomads. The design of cuffs in the form of hooves meant "the spirit, soul, strength of my cattle is always with me, with me."

From one to three silver, coral, gold buttons were sewn on the collar. The following buttons were sewn on the shoulders, under the arm, and the lowest - at the waist. Buttons were considered sacred.

The top buttons were considered to bring happiness, grace. During prayers, the performance of rituals, the buttons on the collar were unbuttoned so that grace entered the body without obstacles.

The middle buttons regulated the number of offspring, honor and dignity.

The lower buttons were symbols of the fertility of livestock, the material wealth of the owner

The longevity of a person depended, according to the views of the Buryats, Mongols, even on how buttons are fastened.

The canonical scheme of putting on and fastening - from the bottom up - starts from the shoes, then goes to the dressing gown, while the buttons are fastened from the bottom up, the hat is put on last.

Undressing is the reverse process. The right side of the body, clothing is sacred; on the right side, health, wealth, grace enters the body inward, exits - on the left side. The right hand is given, everything is taken, the left hand is the giving hand.

Peculiar rules existed when putting on the sleeve of a robe. Men first put on the left sleeve, then the right, women - on the contrary, first put on the right sleeve, then the left. This was explained by the fact that a man, entering the yurt, goes on the left side to the right (count in relation to the entrance), and a woman - on the right side to the left. This custom was strictly observed during wedding ceremonies. Men's dressing gowns were sewn without pockets; girded, they carried a bowl, a pouch, a pipe and other necessary accessories in their bosoms.

The belt served as a kind of corset, because during long riding, the back and camp received additional support and were protected from colds. Belts could be knitted, woven from sheep's wool in dark colors, they were wide and long in size. By the beginning of the 19th century, such belts were no longer made, but silk and semi-silk factory belts were used, which were bought from Chinese merchants. The most expensive, rare and therefore prestigious was considered a sash made of Chinese silk with a rainbow ornament.

The tradition, according to which the belt was mandatory for men, goes back to the ancient hunting life. A leather belt with a deer's tooth, the claws of a hunted animal was called to help the hunter. Similar belts have been preserved and are found among the taiga Evenks.

The belt that children wore over their clothes was once also associated with an ancient custom and, according to the Buryats, was supposed to protect children from evil spirits. The life of Buryat children from birth was surrounded by protective measures in the form of magical ceremonies and rituals in order to preserve their life and health.

The belt is one of the sacred accessories of the costume, a symbol of male honor and dignity. Nomads have proverbs: "Though a bad man, but a man, even a dull one, but a knife"; "If you lift, support a man - he will be your support, if you crush him - he will become a burden to you." The belt played an important role in rituals. He sometimes became a way of expressing his attitude towards a person.

The ancient custom of exchanging belts was an act of establishing a friendly alliance or twinning, or as part of a developed scenario with ritual actions on the occasion of marriage unions. Those who exchanged belts became friends, sworn brothers or matchmakers. Quite often, brothers became taller than relatives. Often, when establishing twinning, they exchanged not only one belt, but a whole belt set, including a knife in a sheath, a snuff box, sometimes a saddle and even a horse. Considering that these objects were made or decorated with precious stones and metals, their material value was great. The descendants, observing the custom, respected the sworn brothers of their fathers and showed them filial piety and respect.

Certain prohibitions were associated with belts. Having taken off the belt, be sure to tie it in the middle with a knot and then hang it high on a nail or hook. The belt must not be thrown to the ground, stepped over, cut off, or torn off.

A knife and a flint and steel, most often in a pair, were necessarily included in the equipment of men. The knife, along with the scabbard, could be presented as a thank you for a service or act as an exchange of gifts. The primary utilitarian function of the knife - as a tool of defense, as an item necessary for meals with meat dishes - was supplemented over time with a new function - decorative: the knife became the subject of costume decoration.

The Buryats have long had a custom - at the birth of a son, the father ordered a knife for him, which he passed on to his son, so it was passed down from generation to generation. If the belt is considered a symbol of male honor and dignity, then the knife is the repository of his soul, vital energy. It was impossible to transfer the knife to other persons, especially strangers.

Flint and steel - a pair of items to the knife - a flat leather bag, at the bottom of which is attached a steel armchair. The front side of the flint and flint was decorated with silver overlaid plaques with chased patterns, among which zoomorphic, vegetative and geometric patterns predominated. Tinder and flint were stored in a leather purse, with the help of which sparks were cut and fire was made. Therefore, flint as a source of fire is one of the sacred items in men's equipment, they wear it in the same way as a knife, on a belt, forming a triad - belt, knife and flint.

Both older men and women used tobacco. Elderly men and old people smoked fragrant tobacco brought from China, women used snuff, which they kept in snuff boxes. Buryat men's pipes were made of 2 types - with a long shank made of jade, "variegated" wood, which was also delivered from China, and short ones, which were made by local master chasers. Smoking pipes for the Buryats are an item that performs not only a utilitarian function, but is also of great importance in various rituals. Even if a man did not use tobacco, he was obliged to have a pouch with tobacco and a pipe with him, which he could treat to the interlocutor.

The headdress of both men and women was well adapted to the living conditions of nomads, and, in addition, performed symbolic functions. The Buryats wore different headdresses, which clearly showed regional differences. Traditional hats were sewn by hand, and purchased ones were also worn along with them.

In the Irkutsk region, the most common was a hat in the form of a cap made of skins, trimmed along the lower edge with lynx fur. They also wore hats made from otters. The round top was sewn from velvet, the lower cylindrical field from otter skins. Otter fur is expensive, very wearable, so they are sometimes worn today. This hat was considered elegant, festive.

Women put on "bizga" or borgo malgay hats. The top was made from a piece of fabric laid in soft folds. In the center, a circle of cardboard was sewn, sheathed with fabric, the crown was sheathed with a braid. Flowers, leaves made of velvet, silk, brocade, and dyed feathers were sewn on wedding hats instead of a lace.

Several types of hats were most popular.

The most ancient, one-piece, one-piece headdress with earmuffs and a semicircular protrusion covering the neck. They sewed it from black or blue dense cloth.

Traditional among the southern Buryats "32-fingered hat" with a high conical crown and turned-back brim. Mostly blue fabrics were used. On the top of the tulle, the pommel was sewn in the form of a ball made of a piece of cedar covered with cloth, or an “ulza” knot was tied from thick cords of fabric. A red silk tassel made of twisted cords or silk threads was tied to the pommel. The rim of the winter hat was made from the fur of a lynx, otter, fox. The number 32 corresponded to the number 32 of the Sundui deities. There is another explanation for the number of lines 32 - "32 generations of Mongolian-speaking peoples." Such hats with vertical stitches were worn by lamas, old women and boys, if they were going to give them to the datsan.

The headdress of the Khori-Buryats was sewn with 11 horizontal lines - according to the number of 11 clans of the Khori Buryats. There were 8 lines on the headdress of the Agin Buryats - according to the number of 8 Agin clans.

The Tsongol hat is distinguished by a rounded low top of the crown, a relatively wide band, expanding above the middle of the forehead.

A headdress for a Buryat, a Mongol is an object endowed with a special sacredness.

The shape of the dress is hemispherical, repeating the shape of the sky, the surface of the yurt, the outlines of hills and hills, typical for the territory of Buryatia and Mongolia.

The conical shape resembles the contours of mountains - the abode of spirits, masters, deities. The cap is topped with a hemispherical silver pommel with a red bead symbolizing the sun. Red silk tassels flow down from the bottom of the bead - a symbol of life-giving sun rays. Brushes also symbolize life energy. The verbal formula that expresses the full symbolism of the top of the headdress is: "Let my family multiply like the rays of the golden sun, let my life energy not run out and flutter over me."

Symbols of 5 elements are concentrated in the headdress: fire, sun, air, water and earth. Vertically, the symbols of the upper world are the sun, the middle one is the mountains, the lower one is the earth. Therefore, hats could not be thrown to the ground, stepped over them, treated carelessly. Performing various rituals associated with offering treats to the spirits of the area, mountains, rivers, when meeting guests or conducting wedding ceremonies, the Buryats always wore hats.

Children's clothes for girls and boys were the same, because. until the period of maturity, the girl was looked at as a pure being, as a man was considered, therefore, all the elements of a male costume were preserved in her costume. The girls wore long terligs or winter degels, girded with cloth sashes. Upon reaching maturity at the age of 14-15, the cut of the dress and hairstyle changed. The dress became detachable along the waist line, decorative braid closed the seam line around the waist. There was no sleeveless jacket in the girl's suit.

The hairstyle was varied, which always served as a sign of a person's belonging to a certain age period. The girls wore one braid on the top of their head, part of the hair on the back of the head was shaved off. At 13-15 years old, the braid on the crown remained, the rest of the hair grew and braided two braids at the temples. On the back of the head, 1-3 braids were braided from the remaining hair. Such a hairstyle meant the transition of the girl to the next age level and was the first sign that distinguished her from the boys. At the age of 14-16, a heart-shaped metal plate was strengthened on the crown of the head. Matchmakers could be sent to a girl with such a sign. At the wedding, the girl changed her hair and braided two braids.

Women's clothing had its own characteristics. By the costume of women, their belonging to the genus can be traced. Women's wedding attire was worn over the dress, leaving the front open, the hem at the back had a slit. They sewed an outfit from cloth, brocade. If in the men's dressing gown the age periods were emphasized by the color of the fabric, and the design remained the same for all ages, then in the women's dressing gown all age periods were clearly distinguished by the cut and design of the dressing gown, hair. There is a proverb among the Buryats: "The beauty of a woman is in front, the beauty of a house is behind." This proverb did not appear by chance and is connected with the fact that the front of the women's costume was sewn from expensive, elegant fabrics, and the back from less expensive ones. This was most likely caused by a shortage of expensive fabrics.

The outerwear of married women was cut off at the waist. An elongated bodice with deep armholes reaching the waist, a simple shape of the bodice cutout, a not very deep smell of the left floor to the right, a direct connection of the bodice and hem was characteristic of the Khori-Buryat clothing. Summer women's dressing gowns were most often sewn from blue fleece, the seam line was closed only in the front part with decorative braid.

In the clothes of a woman - the keeper of the hearth, the successor of the family, rounded shapes predominate: on the shoulders of the sleeves - puffs, a hem sumptuously gathered at the waist. When decorating, golden yellow materials played an important role - various shades of smoky fur, sheepskin, skins.

The clothes of older women were distinguished by the simplification of forms and decorations. Older women sewed everyday robes from cheaper fabrics and dark shades, the sleeves became less complicated. The sleeveless jacket as an addition to the costume was preserved.

A sleeveless jacket was an obligatory addition to the costume of a married woman in all areas where Buryat clans and tribes lived. The hem of the sleeveless jacket was wide, the floors overlapped each other. Along the edge of the front, around the neck, the armholes were sewn with coins. Their dignity and quantity depended on the material well-being of the bearer. Sometimes, instead of coins, round mother-of-pearl buttons or round metal plaques were sewn on. Sleeveless jackets were worn over dresses and fastened with one button at the collar. Sleeveless jackets performed the most ancient magical function of protecting the mammary glands and spine. The same was the role of a woman in the family as the guardian of the hearth, the continuer of the clan. The absence of a sleeveless jacket in a girl's costume is explained by the fact that while she is in her parents' house, she does not perform these functions. And only wedding and post-wedding ceremonies transfer her to another age category - mistresses of the house, mothers.

The main purpose of a woman in the Buryat family and in society was the birth and upbringing of children. Only with the creation of a family leading to the appearance of children is it possible to fulfill this role.

On holidays, a woman's costume was complemented by a large number of jewelry. Coral earrings were put into the ears of a newborn girl, which, according to legend, served as a talisman against dark forces. The older she got, the more jewelry complemented her outfit, but after the wedding, their number waned, and by old age the dress of the Buryat woman became quite modest.

Interesting coral hats-kokoshniks. Their base was cut out of birch bark, covered with velvet or silk, corals were sewn onto the front side, often supplemented with amber and lapis lazuli. Several low corals hung down around the circumference of the kokoshnik, and long bundles of coral threads fell from its temporal parts onto the girl's shoulders. Numerous women's braided ornaments. Figured plates with a bright red coral in the center were tied at the ends of the braids. For these purposes, Russian, Chinese, Japanese silver coins were often used, which were neatly set into a silver ring decorated with a notch.

Amulet holders are among the common types of breast decoration for women. They contained miniature leaflets with the text of a Buddhist prayer, conspiracies against illness and accidents, as well as images of Buddhas and lamas.

Buryat shoes differed from European ones in their cut, in addition, they also performed symbolic functions. The sole of the Buryat boots has a smooth shape, and their toes are bent up. This was done so that when walking a person could not disturb the Mother Earth or damage the living creatures that lived in it.

Currently, the Buryats mostly wear European costume. But on holidays, family celebrations, divine services, they sometimes put on a national costume. Recently, motifs and elements of national clothes are increasingly used in clothes sewn by local craftsmen. National clothes are also sewn for sale as souvenirs, as well as for giving to guests. Most often these are hats and robes, sashes and other attributes.

In Buryat and Mongolian ornaments, a geometric ornament is widely used, the leading motifs of which are: alkhan khe (hammer ornament), sheremel sherdegei khe (drawing of a quilted mattress), ulza (wickerwork), khas (swastika), circle.
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alkhan hee
The ornament with the name "alkhan hee" is called hammer, since in translation from the Buryat and Mongolian languages ​​"alkha" means a hammer. Variations of the hammer ornament are very diverse, but in fact this pattern is identical to the classical Greek meander. "Alkhan hee" among the Mongolian-speaking peoples expresses the idea of ​​perpetual motion. In the old days, only especially valuable items were decorated with hammer ornaments.

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"Ulza" braid (endless knot) is an ancient ornament that symbolizes happiness, prosperity, longevity. This is a very revered and common pattern, it has many options, but the most common is the 10-eye "ulzy". It is depicted as a checkered or curvilinear weave in the center of the decorated object, sometimes braided with floral patterns. This sign can be depicted on any object made of metal, wood, soft material, if the master wants to express the idea of ​​good wishes.
Ulza is considered to be Indian in origin. In Buddhist art - a mystical diagram, one of the eight Buddhist sacrifices, meaning an endless cycle of rebirth in the human world.
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"Arc hee" circle - has its own symbolic expression in the cultures of all peoples, since the disk of the sun served as the original circle, and everything was built according to this model and likeness. The ancient pre-Christian sign of the wheel is the sign of the Sun.

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The circle is the only line that has no beginning or end, and all points are equally distant from the center. The center of the circle is the source of endless rotation in time and space. The circle represents the sky as opposed to the square of the earth.
In the Buryat-Mongolian art, the image of a circle is very often found on metal products - quivers, men's and women's jewelry, on ritual clothes, in furniture painting.
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It's a circle, but with swastikas.

"Khas" swastika. A word made up of two Sanskrit roots: the noun "good" and the verb "to be" or "to consist", i.e. "welfare", "welfare". Another interpretation of the word is the Sanskrit "su" - the sun bird and the deity of the seasons Astika. The ancient solar sign is one of the most archaic signs - an indicator of the apparent movement of the Sun around the Earth and the division of the year into four seasons. Records two solstices: summer and winter-annual movement of the Sun, including the idea of ​​four cardinal directions. This sign, centered around an axis, contains the idea of ​​movement in two directions: clockwise and counterclockwise. Clockwise rotation represents masculine energy, counterclockwise represents feminine energy. At the same time, it has a moral characteristic: movement along the sun is good, against the sun is evil. The right-handed swastika is perceived as a sign of dominance over matter and energy management. In this case, the flow of physical forces is held back, “screwed up” in order to control the lower forces.
The left-sided swastika, on the contrary, means the unwinding of physical and instinctive forces, the creation of an obstacle to the passage of higher forces. Such a swastika is presented as a symbol of black magic and negative energies. As a solar sign, the swastika serves as an emblem of life and light. Sometimes it is identified with another solar sign - a cross in a circle, where the cross is a sign of the daily movement of the Sun.
The swastika was known in different parts of the world as a symbol of the four main forces, the four cardinal points, the elements, the seasons. Another name for the swastika - "gammadion" means it, as consisting of four Greek letters "gamma", the first letter in the name of the goddess of the Earth Gaia. In this case, it is considered not only as a solar symbol, but also as a symbol of the fertility of the Earth. In India, the swastika has traditionally been regarded as a solar sign - a symbol of life, light, generosity and abundance. In the form of a swastika, there was a wooden tool for getting the sacred fire. It is found wherever there are traces of Buddhist culture, it was carved in many temples, on rocks, stupas, on Buddha statues. With the spread of Buddhism from India, it penetrates into China, Tibet, Japan, Siam. In China, Tibet is used as a sign of all the deities worshiped in the Lotus school. Known in the form of a swastika are two curved mutually truncated fragments of a double helix, expressing the symbolism of the Yin-Yang relationship. In Mongolia, rock and cave paintings dated to the Bronze Age depict khas. Genghis Khan wore on his right hand a ring depicting a swastika, into which a magnificent ruby ​​was set - a sun stone.

Buryats are the traditional clothes of the people with a long history and culture. The traditions in the clothes of this people are associated with their way of life and the harsh Siberian climate. The national traditional clothes of the Buryats are adapted to a nomadic lifestyle and sudden changes in temperature. Cattle breeding led to a set of materials from which costumes were made: wool, leather, fur, silk. What is the national dress of the Buryats? What costumes do men and women wear? What do the Buryats in national costumes look like now and what did they look like in the past? What colors and materials do the Buryats choose for sewing their outfits? All this and other interesting features of the national dress of one of the peoples of Siberia will be discussed in the article.

Costume history

Many Mongolian-speaking peoples lived in the Baikal region: Yakuts, Buryats, Tungus and others. The ancient costume of the Buryats can be judged from the written descriptions of diplomats and travelers of the 17th-18th centuries; earlier written references to the national dress, life and way of life of the Siberian people have not been preserved.

Spafariy N., our ambassador to China, was the first to describe the Buryat costume. He wrote that in Buryatia in the 17th century, cotton fabrics brought from China and Bukhara were popular.

The study of the costumes of the Siberian peoples and nationalities from a scientific point of view was taken up by researchers and scientists only at the beginning of the 19th century.

Peculiarities

The harsh climate and nomadic lifestyle played a huge role in the choice of materials for tailoring and shaping the style of the national costume of the Buryats. Spending the whole day in the saddle, the Buryats had to wear very comfortable and convenient clothes, it should not interfere with them, but should have sheltered them from the wind and warmed them in severe frosts. Since they were mainly engaged in animal husbandry, they sewed mainly from leather, fur, horsehair, and wool. Silk and cotton were bought from neighboring peoples.

The Buryats are a nomadic people, they lived at great distances from each other, so each kind of costume had its own distinctive features. Sometimes they differed greatly.

There are summer and winter versions of the Buryat national costume. But the main element of clothing is a robe. A winter suit (degel) was sewn from sheepskin, which was sheathed with velvet. A summer dressing gown, or terling, was sewn from light cotton materials. Festive costumes, as a rule, were sewn from silk.

Bathrobes fastened on the side, which protected from the wind and warmed well in the winter cold. The robes had to be of such length that they covered the legs while riding and walking. In addition, if necessary, the dressing gown was used as a bed, they lay down on one floor, and covered the other.

The Buryat costume has its own varieties, depending on age and gender. The national costume of the Buryats for children is the same for both girls and boys; children were dressed in straight robes, which were very similar to men's.

After the wedding, women put on a shirt, pants and a robe, which was already a jacket and a skirt sewn at the waist. The dressing gown was fastened with special buttons. All married Buryats were required to wear sleeveless jackets.

Traditional hairstyles as an attribute of the national costume

In childhood, for both boys and girls, one braid was braided at the top of the head, and the rest of the hair was shaved off. They stopped shaving the hair of girls who reached the age of 13-15 years. When their hair grew back, they were braided into two braids at the temples, which was already the first obvious sexual difference from boys. At the age of 16, special decorations were put on the girls' heads - saazha, which symbolized the girl's readiness for married life and meant that it was already possible to marry her.

After the wedding, the woman was braided with two braids.

Traditional costume colors

The traditional color of the Buryat national clothes is blue. But there were also exceptions. Sometimes dressing gowns were sewn from brown, green, burgundy materials.

The men's robe was decorated with an enger (a quadrangular board), which has a very symbolic meaning. It consisted of colored stripes, the top of which is always white (when Buddhism came to the Buryats, the color of Enger was allowed to be golden).

Each color among the Buryats has its own meaning, for example, black is the earth, the house; red - energy, fire, life; blue - sky, hope.

Hats and shoes

Both men and women wore hats, which were round, small-brimmed headdresses with a pointed top, which was decorated with a pommel, usually silver, and tassels. Hats were sewn from blue fabrics. Each element of the Buryat cap had its own symbolic meaning. Red tassels, for example, are a symbolic element of the headdress of the Mongolian-speaking peoples. In the middle of the 15th century, Esen-taisha ordered all the peoples living in the Mongolian state to wear red tassels on their headdresses. Since then, this decorative element has been present in the national headdresses of such peoples as the Buryats and Kalmyks.

The winter boots of the Buryats were high fur boots, which were made from the skin of foals. In autumn and spring they wore boots with pointed toes, in summer they wore horsehair shoes that were attached to leather soles.

What is the national costume of Buryat men

Men's dressing gowns were usually sewn from blue material, the main and main attribute of the costume were belts, which differed in material, size and sewing technique.

Outerwear for men was not cut off at the waist and expanded towards the bottom. On the collar, as a rule, several gold, coral or silver buttons were sewn on. They were also sewn on the shoulders, under the arm and the lowest - at the waist. Buttons also had a symbolic meaning. For example, the upper ones were considered to bring happiness, during prayer they specially unbuttoned buttons so that divine grace penetrated the body. The middle buttons meant dignity and honor, the bottom ones symbolized prosperity and wealth.

Usually wealthy Buryats sewed costumes from luxurious fabrics and decorated them with silver. By clothing, it was possible to judge the social status, its origin and place of residence of a person.

Woman suit

Women's clothing changed in accordance with age and changing position in society. The women's national costume consisted of a shirt, pants and a robe, over which a sleeveless jacket was worn.

Children's costume of a girl: a straight dressing gown, belted with a sash of cloth. At the age of 14-16, girls changed their clothes and hairstyle. The dressing gown consisted of a jacket and a skirt, which were sewn along the waistline.

The left half of the dressing gown was traditionally wrapped around the right and fastened on the shoulder and on the side with special buttons. The dressing gown, as a rule, was two-layer, the top was sheathed with expensive fabric, there was a lining inside. The hem of the skirt was sheathed with colored material, sometimes with fur.

A mandatory attribute of a married Buryat woman's clothing was to be a sleeveless jacket, which was worn over a dressing gown. By the shape and style of the sleeveless jacket, one could find out where the Buryat came from and what the financial condition of her family was. For example, Eastern Buryat women wore short sleeveless jackets (uuzha), Western Buryats wore uuzha with a pleated skirt sewn to it. The sleeveless jacket was sewn from bright fabrics and decorated in front with mother-of-pearl buttons or silver coins.

According to traditions and religious rules, a Buryat woman could not appear before the eyes of men without putting on a sleeveless jacket and without covering her head with a headdress.

Elderly women wore very simplified clothes, dressing gowns were sewn from fabrics of dark shades, but a sleeveless jacket and a headdress remained an obligatory attribute.

Decorations

Jewelry is an obligatory attribute of the male and female Buryat national costumes. A photo of jewelry will help you understand the incredible number of their types.

The men's costume is decorated with two elements - a flint, or hete, and a knife, or khatuga. The handle and sheath of the knife were decorated with chasing, silver pendants and gemstones. The flint was a small bag sewn from leather. It was decorated with a chased pattern. Men carry a knife and a steel on their belts.

According to the ancient Buryat custom, at the birth of a son in ancient times, the father always ordered a knife for him, then generic knives were passed down from generation to generation. Knives could not be transferred to other people, it was especially bad sign to lose your knife.

Women's jewelry is striking in its diversity and complexity. Rings were worn on each finger and in several rows, with the exception of the middle finger. Bracelets were worn on both hands, and bracelets and earrings were worn without removing them.

Temporal rings and decorations symbolized the sun, stars, snow, moon. Breastplates consisted of various medallions, in which prayers were usually put. Sometimes the temporal-pectoral adornments were made in the form of a necklace with bells.

Neck ornaments have symbolism meaning fertility.

Women's jewelry was mainly made of silver, with inserts of turquoise, coral, amber.

Young girls wore side pendants, which were two round plates. They were fixed on both sides at the level of the belt, tongs, a toothpick were attached to one plate, a padlock, a small knife and a flint and flint to the other. Both pendants ended with tassels of yellow, green or red silk threads.

Modern fashion and national costume

Modern fashion often uses elements of the national costume of the Buryat people, the photo of which is very often found in fashion magazines. Famous designers and couturiers very often use the national attributes of clothes of different nations to create their masterpieces. The national costume of the Buryats is no exception.

Many elements of the costume and most of the decorative elements, ornaments, original silver jewelry, hats, the original Buryat sleeve, the trapezoid shape of the model's silhouette are often used by fashion designers in their collections.

The national clothing of the Buryats consists of a "dygil" - a kind of caftan made of dressed sheepskins, which has a triangular notch on the top of the chest, pubescent, as well as sleeves tightly clasping the hand brush, with fur, sometimes very valuable; in the summer, among some Buryats, the “dygil” is replaced by a cloth caftan of a similar cut.

In Transbaikalia, in the summer, dressing gowns are in great use, among the poor - paper, and among the rich - silk. The left floor was wrapped on the right side and fastened on the side. The dressing gown was girded with a belt made of leather or fabric. In rainy times, a “saba”, a kind of overcoat with a long kragen, is put on over the dygil in Transbaikalia; and in the cold season, especially on the road - "daha", a kind of wide dressing gown, sewn from dressed skins, with wool outward. The dygil (degil) is pulled together at the waist with a belt sash, on which a knife and smoking accessories hang: a fire starter, a ganza (a small copper pipe with a short shank) and a tobacco pouch. The Buryats are big hunters before smoking, so everyone smokes, not excluding women and children.

The underwear - trousers and a shirt - are of Russian cut. Narrow and long trousers are made of roughly dressed leather (rovduga); the shirt, usually of blue daba, is not washed or removed from the majority of the population until it is worn out. Footwear consists of "unts", something like boots made of foal skins - or ordinary boots; in summer, in some areas, horsehair knitted shoes with leather soles are worn. Men and women cover their heads with a round gray hat with small brim and with a red tassel at the top. Men usually cut their hair short; some wear small braids, the lamaist clergy shave their heads.

Women's clothing differs from men's in decorations and embroidery; so, the dogil of women is turned around with colored cloth, on the back - embroidery in the form of a square is made with cloth at the top and, in addition, copper and silver jewelry made of buttons and coins are sewn onto clothes. There are no such decorations in Transbaikalia; women's dressing gowns consist of a short jacket sewn to a skirt; Buddhist women who have taken a certain spiritual vow wear red cloth ribbons over their shoulders. The girl's costume is distinguished by the absence of "uji" (a kind of sleeveless jacket that all women must wear over a dygil) and a headdress - a hoop decorated with corals and silver.

The Buryats make especially great efforts to decorate their heads: in the absence of long natural hair, they are replaced by horsehair; married women braid their hair in 2 braids, often connecting them together with a metal ring; the ends of the braids are put into velvet covers, decorated with corals and silver, and go down to the chest; girls have braids from 10 to 20, decorated with many coins; Buryats wear corals, silver and gold coins around their necks. Huge earrings hang in the ears, supported by a cord thrown over the head, and “polty” (pendants) are visible behind the ears; on the hands are silver or copper “bugaks” (a kind of bracelets in the form of hoops), etc. All jewelry, and especially head jewelry, varies greatly in the degree of wealth and place of residence of the Buryats.

Buryat clothing Wikipedia
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The Buryat national costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its aesthetics, culture, customs.

The traditions in the national clothes of the Buryats are connected, first of all, with the nomadic way of life and the harsh continental climate, with sharp temperature changes. The national clothes of the Buryats are well adapted to the nomadic way of life.

A long ride in the saddle required such clothing that would not hamper the movement of the rider. Cattle breeding determined the choice of materials from which clothes were sewn. Fur coats were sewn from sheepskins, boots from leather, stockings from wool, etc.

Wealthy Buryats sewed costumes from expensive fabrics and furs (sable, Baikal seal, etc.), jewelry was made mainly from silver. By clothing, it was possible to determine the social status, place of residence of a person and clan (Bulagats, Ekhirits, Khori, Khongodors).

Traditional Buryat men's clothing is presented in two types - degel (winter robe) and terlig (summer).

The main material for winter clothing was sheepskin, which was covered with velvet and other fabrics. Everyday degal was sewn mainly from cotton fabric, and festive - from silk, velvet.

In turn, degels have two floors - upper (gadar hormoy) and lower (dotor hormoy), back (ara tala), front, bodice (seezhe), sides (enger). The men's dressing gown was usually sewn from blue fabrics, sometimes brown, dark green, and burgundy.

The main decor of men's outerwear fell on the chest part of the upper floor (enger), where three multi-colored stripes are sewn in. At the bottom it is yellow-red (hua ungee), in the middle it is black (hara ungee), at the top it is various: white (sagan ungee), green (nogon ungee) or blue (huhe ungee).

The original version was yellow-red, black, white. This division by color later formed the basis for the formation of genera (omog) - Huasai, Khargana, Sagaanguud.

An obligatory attribute of a man's dressing gown were belts, various in material, manufacturing technique and size.

Women's clothing consisted of a shirt - samsa and pants - umde, over which they wore a robe - degel. Clothing changed in accordance with the transition from one age to another, with a change in position in society, the family, and strictly corresponded to the age of the woman.

The girls wore long terligs or winter degels, girded with cloth sashes that emphasized the waist.

At the age of 14-15, the girls changed their hairstyle and cut of the dress, which was cut off at the waistline, and the decorative braid-tuuz closed the seam line around the waist in it. There was no sleeveless jacket in the girl's suit.

When getting married, the girls braided two braids, in accordance with the rite uhe zahaha (“weaving hair”).

Buryats: national costume for men and women, photo

To perform this ceremony, close relatives of the groom and bridesmaids gathered.

Women's wedding attire - degalei was worn over the dress, leaving the front open, there was a slit at the back of the hem. For married women, the costume consisted of a pleated skirt and sweater, sewn at waist level, the left floor was wrapped around the right and fastened at the collar, on the shoulder and on the right side, with special buttons - tobsho. The collar was a low stand or turn-down.

The sleeves at the base were wide and had gathers on the shoulder, finished with brocade and braid in the middle along the seam.

The top of the dressing gown was covered with some kind of material, sometimes with silk, inside the degel always had a lining. The hem of the skirt and the edges of both floors up to the jacket were sheathed with strips of colored fabric. Sometimes the hem was decorated with otter fur.
A sleeveless jacket (uuzha) that complements the outfit is an indispensable element of the costume of a married woman of all Buryat tribes.

Among the Eastern Buryats, the sleeveless jacket - esegyn uuzha - was short and consisted of one vest. Among the Western Buryats, a sleeveless jacket - seezzhebshe or hubaisi - had a vest and a pleated skirt sewn to it. An elegant sleeveless jacket was decorated in front along the slit with silver coins or mother-of-pearl buttons. Like a dressing gown, it was made on a lining. This detail of the costume played an important role in the life of a woman, she was not supposed to show herself to men without wearing sleeveless jackets, and she also had to always wear a hat on her head.

The Buryats attached great importance to jewelry.

Women's jewelry of the Eastern Buryats was distinguished by its complexity, multi-component and multi-component nature. They were made mainly of silver with inserts of coral (pink coral was considered the most valuable), turquoise, and amber.

It is traditionally believed that the headdress of the Eastern Buryats is composed as follows: the upper part of the headdress denotes the sky - tengeri, red tassels - the rays of the sun - naran, the lower part - the earth - gazar. Temporal jewelry and earrings falling on the chest from the headdress symbolize stars, the sun, moon, rain, snow, etc. Neck and chest jewelry (guu) have fertile symbols and correspond to the Earth sign.

The most common decorations were: rings (behelig), rings (bulturu), which were worn on almost all fingers, sometimes in several rows, with the exception of the middle finger.

On both hands the woman had silver bracelets. Bracelets and earrings were worn constantly, without taking them off. The pectoral decoration was a system of ornamented silver medallions (guu, urlei ger) square (tebher guu), triangular (zurkhen guu), as well as round and arched. In them, as in amulets, prayers in the Tibetan language were usually invested.

A characteristic feature of head jewelry is the abundance of temporal-pectoral jewelry made of coral beads and silver (daruulgyn huuhe) falling from top to bottom in the form of massive cast silver rings (eemeg) and many pendants.

The length of these adornments ranged from 22 to 75 cm, and the width was from 30-50 cm. Another type of temporal-pectoral adornments (huuhe-honho) was a necklace with bells.

Shoulder decorations (murenei guu, eemeg-shuretei, utakan sasagtai) were worn by girls and young women of only Khori clans. It was sewn on a dressing gown (for a girl) or a sleeveless jacket (for a woman). The decoration consisted of a silver base of a cone-shaped round or square shape, hollow inside and with a coral insert in the center.

Along the edges on both sides descended from beads, corals, pearls or silver chains with silk tassels at the ends, two in front and two rows behind.

Young women and girls of marriageable age wore side pendants (hanzhuurga). This decoration consisted of two round silver plates (bekyn khantarga, bele), which were fixed on both sides at the level of the belt for young women, and for girls on the belt. Tongs, an earwig (kultibsha), a toothpick (shudnei shegshuur) were hung from one plate on a woven silk ribbon or a silver chain.

On the other plate hung a small padlock, a miniature knife (hutaga) and a steel (hete). The pendants ended with magnificent tassels of red, green and yellow silk threads.

BURYATS NATIONAL COSTUME

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introduction

The Buryat folk costume is part of the centuries-old culture of the Buryat people. It reflects its culture, aesthetics, pride and spirit. The costume of one of the multilingual peoples of Transbaikalia and the Baikal region has always attracted the attention of travelers, since they influenced the historical fate of the inhabitants of these regions, as a specialty, as well as landscape and nature.

Both women and men were engaged in the production of Burjat clothes. A tailor must have a lot of knowledge and skills, in particular, he was an artist and embroidery, adhesive and quilting, dealing with clothes, knowing the finish, color. Men's clothing-passport shows its tribal (ethnic) affiliation and symbol, which means its social significance.

At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. Buratovtsi kept traditional clothes. But in the middle of the 20th century, the national costume could always be found. Nowadays, the Buryat national costume can only be found at festivals or in productions. But the national costume, its connection, tailoring - this is the entire storehouse of the wealth of Buryatov's national culture. All generations of people do not know their own culture, they do not remember the prior knowledge of their ancestors, they do not understand the beauty of folk costumes.

Therefore, the younger generation should not only recognize the national costume in Buryatia, but also know, appreciate and preserve it for future generations.

The goal is to bring the younger generation up to the national costume in Burat.

1) Study the history of the development of the national costume.

2) study the varieties of national costumes.

3) Get acquainted with the ancient national costume of the Ayuev family.

The importance of our research is expressed in the popularization of the national costume for the subsequent development of interest in the culture of Burakh. The purpose of the study is the national costume of the Buryats. The subject of the study is the type of folk costume "Buryat". The research hypothesis is that the Burjat national costume is a memory of ancestors and culture for posterity.

1. Studying the national costume of the Buryats

first

1 The history of the development and diversity of the national costume of the Buryats

The Buryat costume was the result of a long process of development from simple to complex, from utilitarian to aesthetic.

The material and production technique depend on the degree of development of the economy and culture. The main activity of Buryatov was the cultivation of cattle. Sheepskins, leather and other recycled materials were used to make the costume.

Animal skins have been used for a long time. The late 19th and early 20th century saw the partial removal of traditional leather, leather, and the predominant use of Russian and Western fabrics. The latter is especially characteristic of the Burj Khayyat.

In Transbaikalia, Chinese cotton and silk threads continued to be used with Russian fabrics. Burjati used fabrics in smart clothes; the quality of the material and decorations was the costume of the rich.

It is worth mentioning the well-known unity of the Burjat costume. Cutting clothes at the waist is a feature of the Buryat costume.

Traditional costume, both men's and women's undergarments, consisting of T-shirts (Samsa), wide-leg trousers (um), outerwear (degel) wrapped from left to right with special headdresses and shoes for Buryats.

Women's clothing is less susceptible to change and, as a more conservative option, has retained many of the old features. The study of the section of parts of the costumes showed the presence of two types of clothing: raspberry (morina samsa) and deaf (Urbakh, Uchany). Dressing the shirt is essentially a left-gender scented short dress, it is called "kwanghi"; "tret", The deep shirt appeared in Buryatsk under the influence of the neighboring Russian population, which is characterized by such shirts.

There were two types of men's clothing. The first type includes swallowed shepherds - nomads with a characteristic smell of "jestehas" (male fur). The second type includes the outer dress of the Burdjat part of the Baikal region with a flat front slit, with a hem extending to the bottom. The clamps that touched the bottom reached the straight cutting mill. A feature of the men's suit was the belt.

The material, technique and purpose differed: knitted, woven, woven with hair, wool. They were more elegant than leather with silver plates. The study of them leads to the conclusion that there was a younger congregation, the belt was necessary as an amulet, then the belt was a sign of masculinity, a distinguishing mark in the hierarchy of service.

The decoration of the metal plates of the belts was deeply traditional and reflected the view of the world of its creators. These motifs are common with decorations of other peoples of Central Asia, southern Siberia and are characteristic of different historical periods.

The headdress was varied, along with the traditional domestic Burjata they wore and bought. The differences varied in size. In Transbaikalia, clothing was associated with wealthy ancestors. The oldest is the "Juden" hat, with earmuffs and a semi-circular neckline that covers the neck, worn in bad weather.

The Buryat from the Baikal region had a head with a round head and a narrow edge along the edge of the "Tatari mamai" (Tartar cover). The hat was also known here as a "hobby", Later they were replaced by a cube hat. The men's suit was a sign of the wearer's place in the hierarchy of services. The clothes that behaved were different from the clothes of the employees. "People of Ulus" clothes made of cotton fabrics: dalamba, coat. The right to wear silk and brocade was the privilege of the princes and the rich: the aristocracy wore blue dresses.

An artist depicting a dragon (embroidery, weaving) showed the high position and source of the wearer. The top with a high crown, with blue, white, red stones, was decorated with an official's suit. Children of both sexes wore clothes like men. A girl before marriage could wear such clothes with a belt.

It is characteristic for women's clothing that they cut off the belt - the mill consisted of a wide wing and a gym, the sleeves consisted of puffs or straight without a bucket.

A married woman was not allowed to wear a belt. Women's costume by age, the woman changed from one period to another and changed her marital status.

Buryat clothing

All this is accompanied by appropriate rituals. If, before the period of maturity, the girl kept a dress for men's suits that wore wings, big girls cut through the waist of the dress, but with sleeves, except for half a sleeve for men.

The decorative patch bypassed the belt, married only at the front. Equipped with hair and jewelry, as well as a suitable and social position, the decorative peak was different from the costumes of other age groups. In the outerwear of married women, certain features based on details were respected in the principles of decorative design and implementation. The elegant attire of a young married woman in full uniform distinguishes a number of local subtypes.

Older women's clothing varied in simplified forms and borders. The emergence of European style clothing is one of the most important phenomena of Burat women's clothing from the 19th and early 20th centuries. But elongated shirts "Samsa" in Transbaikalia and dressing flat canvases on a coquette "Chaldean" in the Baikal region have existed for a long time. In the costume costume of the Buryat Baikal region, one can find a geographical - general department: the costumes of Bokhansky, Alyarsky and Vershnelen, which can be attributed to Bulgats and Ehirats.

It is interesting to know that one of the distinguishing features is the shoes.

1.2 The history of the ancient costume of the Ayuev family

In 1987, ethnographers from Ulan-Ude came to visit the Ayuja family. Rumors reached the capital of Burdzhatia, which has been preserved on the left bank of the Angara in the ancient outskirts of Zakhoda, which is over a hundred years old.

Anfisa grandmother, who lived in the world for 101 years, left four children and grandchildren, and, perhaps most importantly, a good memory of an unsettling feeling of love, wisdom, love and care for hands. It was these hands that gave the heritage of the offspring an incredible thing - to degeld the old breed, but the national winter clothes of Buryat women. At the end of the last century, this coat gave Anfisi her mother's wedding.

It was very elegant and hence it was used for some ceremonial occasions. It may have degenerated when Ansisa Andreevna moved on after her sister's death and from sister to Galina's nephew still looks new. But for a century and a half, Degel is a very rare thing. Galina Georgievna Ayuev's polite guests are convinced that they sold the family heirloom for a lot of money, but left nothing.

Granddaughter grandmother Anfisa could not sell her memory to her beloved grandmother, but she is always happy at exhibitions to send degel. Let the young ones take a look at how their grandmothers were dressed in the old days. After all, this is the history, the culture of our people. Time will pass, and such clothes will be visible only in drawings and drawings.

Therefore, it is logical to proceed to the description of degelation. This was told to us by the owner of the old Buryat dress Galin Aueva. "Dagel - outer winter dress." My prabado was a seamstress. Since then, the dress has hardly been restored. It is protected from leather and fur by hand. In the core of a long lamb, covered with plush dark green, decorated with decorative lines: Chinese silk green, yellow and black velvet. Finished with fur (halyun).

The coat is quite long and well protected from steppe winds and severe frosts. Cutting edge on the belt line: consists of an extensive corset edge (viche) (HORM), which is screwed in the belt and sews sleeves (anchors). At the top of the coat, a hupaahi is dressed (with a black shirt with short sleeves made from a plate). The front side does not converge, the edges are finished with a colored strip of expensive fabrics and sewn with silver coins.

The addition to this coat has always served as a cap (bordeaux maegai), came out of brocade and is decorated with hallinun fur. The crown of the cap is decorated with a brush of golden gold and copper threads (hall), and a silver coin is reinforced at the top.

Bella Fyodorovna Mushkirova (cousin Galina Georgievna) said how they made arkhan (sheepskin) before sewing clothes, dressed in this sequence:

1. Soaked in yeast (sour milk) and left for 2-3 days.

2. Then they folded up the skins of the sheep and left for one day.

3. After that, he took a rod 30-40 cm long and 6-8 cm in diameter, sheepskin hind legs wrapped around this stick. And the side of the neck was attached to the wall on a special tower and began to turn, then in one and another 3-4 days.

4. Then the legs and knees of leather shavings were bowed with special tools, removed by guar (molten, curved knife with two handles) and Dimethyl hederge.

Sheep skin after processing sounded, for example. joked.

5. After changing clothes, the sheepskin was washed with water with the addition of a small amount of serum, then the hands that sit in the sun or winter in the immediate vicinity of the stove were crumpled.

6. A pit was dug in the herd about 50 cm deep and 20-30 cm in diameter, pine and dried manure were installed there so that the fire would not burn, but would smoke.

7. Then two skins were glued together and a fire was set up in the form of a yurt. The skin was saturated with smoke, took on a certain color, and only then was the outer clothing.

Instead of thread, we used whales, which were also dried and then divided into thin strips in the form of a thread. All this hard work was done by women.

conclusion

Life does not stand still, progress and civilization will change our lives slowly or quickly.

Our language, our way of life, our clothes - everything changes with time. On the one hand, such a phenomenon is unimportant, everything in the world must change over time, develop and not stand still. On the other hand, in such a new course, we are losing the unforgettable, dear and irreplaceable - our history and culture. And it depends only on us whether we can preserve our history, culture, the memory of our ancestors and pass it on to our descendants.

Or cancel the old covenants as an unnecessary echo of the past and go on living without support, without the help of ancestors, without the richness and diversity of our culture.

As a result of my tasks, I came to the following conclusions:

1) Burjaat folk costume has changed over time.

2) varieties of the national costume "Buryat" were subject to social status.

3) The old national Buryat costume is a memory of descendants, especially in the Ayuev family.

4) You will know the hard work of peasant life from the story of this costume.

1. Materials offered by the school museum corner.

2. Materials of the family archive of Ayuev G.G.

3. Web resource resources: www.wikipedia.ru.

Annex 1

Natasha Prikazchikova shows Ayeva's family costume.

Okhotkova Oksana Alexandrovna 1

On the territory of modern Buryatia, people have lived since the Paleolithic, archaeological finds testify to this. That is, even 20-30 thousand years before our era, people knew how to save life in difficult natural conditions. The national costume also contributed to this to a large extent. From the beginning of the centuries, the Buryats used for clothing what they had in everyday life: animal skins, their wool, and a little later - natural fabrics.

Costume history

Different tribes lived on both sides of Lake Baikal, which had their own ethnographic features. There were many Mongolian-speaking clans, Yakuts, Tungus, Tofalars and other nationalities. The Buryats as a people took shape only from the middle of the 17th century after joining the Russian Empire. Everything that has been preserved in museums and private collections belongs to this time. Retained its original appearance The Buryats were mainly engaged in cattle breeding, they wandered a lot. The skills associated with hunting and processing skins have been passed down from generation to generation.

All this is reflected in the costume: not only ancient woolen robes and leather shoes were found, but also silver and gold women's jewelry, whose age is calculated for centuries.

Women's and men's clothing

By the type of costume, you can immediately determine who the clothes are intended for - a man or a woman. In addition, for each period of life there were differences. Boys and girls, boys and girls, married women and old people wore clothes in completely different ways. Combines all types of suits with maximum comfort and excellent protection from the cold.

Buryats - Indigenous Their costume was greatly influenced by the climate. The basis is tanned skins, fur, wool, horsehair. Later, with the emergence of trade relations with China and Asia, silk, brocade, flax, and velvet were added. In some areas, precious metal threads were used. People living in these parts will tell everything about the owner of the national costume. The Buryats know how to accurately and concisely indicate the main circumstances of a person's life.

Men's suit

Buryat clothing for both men and women is intended primarily for nomadic life in the saddle. Features of the cut adapted the products so that they could spend many hours on horseback without fatigue and, if necessary, spend the night in the open.

A shirt made of natural fabric (most often made of cotton) and tight pants made of rough leather are put on directly on the body. In these pants, any road is not terrible. Shoes were made of foal skin - for winter, and for summer they were woven from horsehair, and the leather sole was simply sewn on.

A winter (degel) or summer (terlig) dressing gown was worn on top. Degel was sewn from sheepskin, it was possible to decorate it with velvet or other fabric. The summer dressing gown was made of any natural fabric.

Features of the degal cut

The dressing gown should be close to the body so as not to leave room for cold air. The sizes of the bathrobe are individual, but there are mandatory parts:

  • back;
  • sides;
  • before;
  • top floor;
  • bottom floor.

The body is completely covered with a dressing gown, and the floors can be used as a bed: lie on one and hide on the other. This makes the life of the national costume easier. The Buryats are a very practical people, and every detail of the costume has been tested for centuries. Be sure to wear a belt. A belted robe formed a pocket in which they carried a bowl in order to always have personal tableware at hand. The bowl was worn in a fabric case, smoking accessories were hung on the belt.

What does the national costume of the Buryats look like for women

The type of costume depends entirely on the age for which it is intended. Girls wear a long one-piece dressing gown, gird it. This emphasizes the flexibility of the girl's figure. With the onset of a real girlish age - about 15 years - the cut of the dressing gown changes. The dressing gown is cut along the waist line, a beautiful sash is put on, and a mandatory item of women's clothing appears on top - a sleeveless jacket.

The sleeveless jacket has a different look for married and unmarried women. A short sleeveless jacket was required to be worn by all women in the presence of men. A covered back is one of the main signs of decency for women.

A girl's puberty was indicated by a silver heart in her headpiece. Girls who wanted to get married wore two round silver plates on their belts. Self-care devices were attached to these plates - knives, scissors, earwigs.

The feminine dignity of the Buryats is always emphasized here: a woman in a national costume looks great. So, a married woman dressed in a pleated skirt and jacket. Such a suit made it possible to look good during pregnancy and lactation.

Clothes for the elderly

The main thing in these suits is convenience and practicality, as well as excellent protection from the cold. They wore everything the same, only the cut was looser, and the number of decorations decreased. Buryat also included custom-tailored shoes. Two types of shoes were used: stocking-like and shoe-like. Uggs that came into fashion not so long ago are stylized folk shoes, which in the original were intended for old people whose feet were cold.

Shoes were complemented with stockings to the knees, knitted from sheep's wool.

The hat was an obligatory part of the costume, it was sewn from natural fur, most often otters. The preferred shape is conical, although researchers have identified more than 50 varieties.

National jewelry of Buryat women

They are varied and multi-layered. They were made of silver with numerous inserts of precious stones. The ancient Buryats believed that the souls of children, dead ancestors and animals settled in jewelry.

Ornaments were the amulets of the family. They wore pendants fixed at the temples, descending to the chest and neck. Mandatory were numerous rings on all fingers, except for the middle one.

There were "cases" for braids - various combinations of metal plates and fabric. It was believed that the magical power of women's hair is preserved in this way.