Openwork raglan jacket with knitting needles on top. Raglan top (partial knitting) II. Practice

4. Mark the future raglan lines (pink threads) and the central front loop. This can be done with markers, thread, and safety pins. What is convenient for you.

Beginning of tying out the sprout.

We will knit the sprout using partial knitting. The general principle and how to make sure there are no holes can be seen in the video. If this technique is new to you, then don’t be lazy, try it on a sample.

5. The first row is the front row. The beginning of knitting is the left raglan line of the back.
We knit a raglan line, make a yarn over, knit two loops, remove the third with a wrap.

6. Turn the knitting to the wrong side. Second row. We remove the loop with the wrap, knit two, knit a yarn over, two loops of the raglan line. We lift the second increase of the raglan line from the broach.

We knit two loops, remove the third with a wrap

7. The third row is the front one. We tighten the wrap around the first loop.

Remove the loop, knit 2, yarn over, 2 raglan stitches, yarn over, back loops, yarn over, knit 2, wrap up to the loop and knit together with it.

2 front ones, remove the 3rd with a wrap.
Thus, 2 parts of 3 loops were added. The raglan line is purple, the capes are blue.

8. We knit the fourth - purl, fifth - knit, sixth - purl in the same way, knitting 3 sleeve loops.

9. The seventh is the front one. The last front row to the raglan front line.

10. The eighth row is purl. We tie the last 3 loops to the raglan front line.
At this stage, the number of front and back loops is equalized.
It looks like this.

12. Tenth - purl. Raglan increases are raised from broaches.

And we knit three front loops.

13. In this way we knit until the eighteenth row, purl the last row.

We do not remove the last loop in this row with a wrap, but simply knit it.

14. Nineteenth row. First row of circular knitting. In fact, this is one and a half rows, to align the circular knitting.
Yarn over and slip off the first stitch.

We knit the first raglan line (left raglan front line) without yarn overs, sleeve loops, yarn over, raglan line (left raglan back line - it is also the beginning of knitting), yarn over, back, yarn over, raglan line, yarn over, sleeve, yarn over, raglan line, yarn over, front loops, yarn over with together with the loop in front of it,

remaining front stitches, yarn over, raglan line, yarn over, sleeve loops.
That. Having knitted one and a half rows, we came to the logical starting point for the beginning of circular knitting.

15. Twentieth row. Full circular knitting, we knit all the yarn overs.
When finished it looks like this. The beginning of knitting is the left raglan line of the back.

Part 4. Knitting the body with and without undercuts. Sleeves.

Option with undercut.

1. Drop the loops of the sleeves (without the loops of the raglan lines) onto the thread.

2. Using any method convenient for you, we cast on the undercut loops. In my case, a set of air loops.

4. We knit about 5-7 rows (up to the height of the tuck, if necessary)

5. Transfer the sleeve loops from the thread to the knitting needles

6. We collect loops from raglan lines (2 each) and from undercut loops.

7. We knit loops made from raglan lines, two together. We mark the middle of the decrease line.

8. Upon reaching the estimated length, we reduce the bevel of the sleeve.

No trim option.

1. Throw the loops of the sleeves onto the thread. And we combine the front and back into circular knitting without additional loops. We knit a straight section of the body.

2. In order not to have holes in the armpit, you need to cast on three additional loops from the loops of the body fabric.
The needle only shows which ones, we collect with thread.

4. We make decreases in the sleeve bevel line.
Two together face behind the front wall.

Two together with the front one behind the back wall.

5.We perform the second sleeve in the same way.

A wonderful way to knit a wide variety of products is raglan with knitting needles on top. Thanks to this interesting technique, the main fabric of the product is knitted together with the sleeves, and often with the neckline.

In what cases is raglan irreplaceable?

Raglan knitting is suitable for making sweaters, dresses, blouses (with a front fastener), as well as children's items, pullovers and overalls. With its help it is very convenient to form canvases using solid or openwork patterns.

Models for knitting using the raglan sleeve technique are good because they knit quite quickly, do not have shoulder seams and allow for optimal distribution of the available materials.

Preparatory work

Before knitting raglan, you must knit a test pattern. This measure will not only allow you to best calculate the process of making the model and protect you from unnecessary unraveling, but will also illustrate a fragment of the future canvas.

The finished sample should be steamed with an iron (very carefully) or washed and dried. Then you need to measure it lengthwise and crosswise, and also write down how many loops and rows there are per 10 cm (the length and height of the sample). The data obtained should be compared with the raglan pattern and the required number of loops should be calculated not only for the first row, but also for the main parameters of the future product. These include: chest and waist circumference, hem circumference, neckline and sleeve circumference (top and bottom).

If the number of rows can be determined by fitting the fabric to the pattern, then the number of loops needs to be known in advance.

Getting started: casting on and distributing stitches

Based on the data obtained during the calculation, you should cast on the loops of the first row on the knitting needles. If the product does not have a front fastener, then it needs to be knitted in circular rows on knitting needles with fishing line. The following master class describes how to make just such a pullover. All instructions are aimed at step-by-step answering the basic questions of beginning craftswomen.

The ratio of the number of added loops to the length of raglan lines

As an example, the calculation of raglan for 90 loops of the first row will be given:

1. 1. The rag line (there will be four of them) is the border along which loops are added. Its width is 2 loops. Total: 82 P.;
2. 2. Divide the remaining amount by 6 to maintain standard proportions;
3. 3. The resulting integer 13P will be the width of the sleeve;
4. 4.For the front and back parts, the following calculation should be made: 82-(13x2)=56, 56/2=28P.

To make knitting even more convenient, you can redistribute the stitches, leaving 12P for the sleeves and moving 1P to the front and back parts (they become 29P).

You can cast on and mark the loops for the neck in any convenient way, but it is advisable to make sure that the loops remain open. This will help you make a neat elastic band in the future.

Formation of a sprout

This feature of raglans can be difficult for beginners, but you just have to understand this issue once and in the future everything will be clear. The sprout is the difference in the depth of the neck of the front and back pieces. The back piece should be a few centimeters higher than the front (on average 6-8 cm). Compliance with this principle is necessary for any type of raglan: both for the one going from the top, and for the one that is knitted from the bottom up.

The sprout can be knitted immediately after casting on the loops. To do this, the central loops of the back are knitted with partial knitting, gradually incorporating the remaining buttonholes into the process. In this case, the width of each row increases by three loops on each side.

The sprout is ready when its width becomes equal to the width of the back part and two sleeves, that is, it reaches the front raglan lines.

.An alternative is to knit a straight raglan without a sprout. But after its completion, you should knit the back piece to the height of the sprout and only then connect it to the front fabric.

The principle of raglan knitting

The main extensions are made in every second row along the raglan lines. Add one loop before and after them, that is, each even row increases the total number of links by 8. Additions can be made using yarn overs or by knitting additional loops from broaches between existing links. The second method avoids the formation of holes when knitting yarn overs.

In the process of expanding the fabric, you can use almost any pattern, gradually including its repeats, in accordance with the diagrams, as new loops are formed.

You can also diversify and decorate the raglan lines by allocating not two, but more loops for them. Models with plaits running up along the raglan lines look interesting.

Formation of the armhole: knit front, back, sleeves

When the depth of the resulting part becomes sufficient to form armholes, it is time to move on to the next stage.

At this point, the master class, using illustrations, describes how to knit raglan after completing the extensions. You can’t simply transfer the front and back buttonholes to circular knitting needles; the armholes will be uncomfortable. For them, additional links should be recruited. On average, their number should be about 6 cm of canvas. You can pick them up in any convenient way, for example, using a crochet hook or yarn overs.

If you need to decrease the loops for the waist and then add them, then this work is carried out according to calculations made in advance. Beginners need special care at this stage, as possible errors will be quite noticeable.

We knit a beautiful raglan using the example of a children's blouse. Master class In this detailed master class I want to introduce you to one of the ways to knit raglan on top. As an example, consider knitting from the neck of a children's blouse with raglan sleeves entirely without seams. When knitting from the neckline from top to bottom, you can try on the item at any time and adjust its size - the width and length of both the entire product and the sleeves. You don’t need to bother with knitting the armhole and sleeve cap; the product fits well on the shoulders and does not gather in the armpit area (as in models knitted evenly - without an armhole line). It is also very convenient for knitting children's clothes in the sense that the item can “grow” with the child. After all, children grow very quickly, and mostly in height. If a beautifully knitted children's sweater from high-quality yarn suddenly becomes short, or the sleeves become short, you can easily undo the closed loops of the bottom and simply knit it. And even if there is almost no yarn of the same type left, come up with an option with multi-colored stripes or a jacquard pattern. In the master class, for greater clarity, I specifically consider the option of a model knitted mainly in stocking stitch, with a simple design of a raglan line. If you master this method of knitting, you can then use it to knit sweaters of any size, with other patterns and other raglan lines. Raglan line The meaning of the raglan line (hereinafter I will abbreviate it as RL) is to evenly add loops along it - from the neckline to the armpit line. As a rule, after one row, 1 loop should be added on each side along each of the four RLs. In the method that I will show in this MK, 2 loops will be added every 3 rows (in every 4th row), which results in the same thing in terms of the total number of added loops. The method is this: in every 4th row along the face of the work you need to knit 5 out of 3 loops (knit, yarn over, knit, yarn over, knit). These fans come in pairs, one on each side of the back, front and sleeve parts, and touching each other form the following RL: Note: At the junction of the fans, small holes are created in the form of an openwork. If you want to use the same RL, but without the openwork, then you can insert an additional 1 loop between the fans and knit it either with purl or stockinette stitch. Getting started and the upper part of the product I will conduct the master class using a specific example of a simple model of a children's jacket and with a specific calculation of the loops. I will make a small blouse for a child about 1 year old. But for the work I used thin yarn “Pekhorka - Children's whim” and 2.5 mm circular knitting needles. If you take thicker yarn and knitting needles, then with the same number of loops and rows you will get a larger product. Focus on your measurements and knitting density. In this MK I will not dwell in detail on how to calculate the loops for knitting raglan from the neck, since this is the topic of a separate article in which this is described in detail. The goal here is to show the process itself. So, we cast on 52 loops, of which: 24 loops on the back, 10 loops on the sleeves (10 x 2 = 20 stitches), and then, ATTENTION: we don’t cast on loops for the front, only loops for its two RLs are 3 x 2 = 6 loops, +2 edge loops. For the front part, we do not cast on loops, because we will gradually add them along the edges in the process of knitting with air loops - to form a recess in the neckline. If this is not done, the product will “pull” back and fit poorly! This is one of the mistakes knitters make when knitting raglan from the neckline. And now in detail by row: After knitting the first row, the loops for the RL, back and sleeves are distributed. Note: as you understand, from the number of loops that we have for the back and sleeves, we subtracted 6 loops for the RL. The same should be done in the case of other types of RL - the number of loops required to knit them should be subtracted from the total number of loops for the back or sleeve, and the remaining loops should be knitted with the main pattern. You can change the number of loops for the back and sleeves to suit your size. 2nd row (wrong side of work): purl all stitches, at the end of the row add 1 chain stitch. How to knit air loops (hereinafter referred to as VP) is shown in great detail in this lesson. 3rd row: knit the chain stitch at the beginning of the row with a crossed knit stitch, then knit all the stitches. At the end of the row, add 1 VP. 4th row: knit VP at the beginning of the row with a purl crossed loop, then purl all the loops, and at the end of the row add 2 VPs. 5th row: 2 VPs cast on in the previous row, knit with crossed loops, 4 knit (loops for front), from 3 loops 5 (2 times in a row), 8 knit (sleeve loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 22 knit (back loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 8 knit (sleeve loops), from 3 loops 5 (2 times), 4 knit (front loops), in end of row 2 VP. This is what knitting looks like at the end of the 5th row. The emerging RLs are already visible, and at the end of the row you see 2 VPs: Now you can carry out a control count of the loops. The number of loops in the back and front should be equal. Now, after the 5th row, we have a total of 32 loops for the back (together with the RL loops), and 11 loops for the shelves. Therefore, for the fronts you need to add 5 more loops to get 16 loops each, and then there will be the same number of loops for the front as for the back (16 x 2 = 32 stitches). Therefore, we next knit: 6th row: 2 VP at the beginning of the row, purl crossed, then purl all the loops, at the end of the row 5 VP. 7th row: We knit 5 VP with crossed knit stitches, then knit all the loops, at the end of the row 5 VP. 8th row: We knit 5 VPs with crossed purls, then purl all the loops. Now we have the same number of back and front loops, and there is no need to add chain loops. We continue to knit simply in stockinette stitch, while simultaneously performing RL as described above and knitting the edges to obtain a chain-like edge (we remove the first one, purl the last one). Important notes: If you are knitting a larger size, you will need to add stitches for the front according to your size and desired neckline depth. So, after you have added 2 VPs, in the next rows you add 3 or 4 VPs, you can add 3 VPs several times in a row, then a large number of loops to equal the number with the back - all this needs to be adjusted for each product and cutout individually. If you plan to knit a one-piece fastener strap, then in addition to the front loops, you need to add chain loops on each side for the straps - 5-6 loops, and accordingly knit them already, like straps, making slotted loops on one of them. In my version of MK, I suggest that you then tie the strips separately. If you plan to knit a product without a fastener, like a sweater or pullover, then after the number of front and back loops is equal, you need to connect the ends of the row and continue knitting in the round. Continuation of knitting the back and front Next, we continue to knit, adding loops using RL, until we reach the armpit line. This can be determined either by trying the product on for the future owner, or by being guided by the dimensions from the pattern - we look at the length of the RL (in my case it is 16 cm), as well as the width of the back-front and sleeves. Then we proceed as follows. On the front side of the work we knit the loops of the front (left front) inclusive of the RL loops of the front with front loops (we no longer add 5 from 3 loops). Next, we remove the loops of the sleeve with the loops of its RL inclusive using a knitting needle onto a thick thread of a contrasting color, and tie the ends of the thread. We continue to knit the back loops. Having knitted to the second sleeve, we remove its loops in the same way, and then we knit the row to the end with the loops of the right shelf. Now we have only the back and front loops on our knitting needles: We continue to evenly knit the main “body” of the sweater to the length you need. As I already wrote at the beginning of the article, determining the length is now easy - just try on this, for now, sleeveless vest. Fortunately, both circular knitting needles with a flexible connection, and the fact that the sleeve loops are gathered on an elastic thread, make this possible without difficulty. Well, if there is no one nearby to try it on, we check the sizes according to the pattern.

Raglan sleeves can be used in different types of knitted clothing. These can be sweaters or cardigans in which the front and back are one piece with the sleeves. The product has no seams, so raglan is convenient to knit for children. Raglan can be knitted from top to bottom, starting from the neckline, or from bottom to top.

We will tell you how to knit raglan with knitting needles, and in different ways, so you can choose the one that you like best and suit your taste. The result will definitely be a beautiful and practical thing created with your own hands. You just need to carefully watch the video tutorials - even a beginner can do this work.

To get a raglan line, you need to mark the place where it will be located, and when knitting, add two loops in the two lower loops. There are two ways to knit a raglan line, both of which produce good results. The result is a neat line without any holes.

The raglan line can serve a purely decorative role, although usually it is a place where the fabric is expanded in various ways by adding loops. At the location of the raglan line, there is a clear change in the structure of the pattern, which indicates even an inconspicuous raglan line.

Video lesson:

The video tutorial tells how to knit raglan with knitting needles from the neckline. The dress with raglan sleeves is knitted on circular needles. Detailed schemes for calculating the number of loops are proposed, including those that form beautiful patterned raglan lines. Knitting begins with a neckline, which is formed by an elastic band, and then it turns into raglan lines.

The sprout is the difference in height between the back and front parts. This difference is formed due to a certain number of loops according to the diagram. The production of all types of loops is described in detail and clearly demonstrated during the knitting lesson.

Video lesson:

Unlike ordinary knitted items, which are knitted in sections and then sewn together, garments with raglan sleeves are knitted not according to a pattern, but according to precise calculations of stitches. All parts are knitted at the same time, and their expansion is ensured by adding loops. Additions are made along lines called raglans. The number of loops on the back and front differs (more on the front).

The video tutorial describes in detail how loops are calculated using a specific example, taking into account all possible adjustments. After this, all that remains is to pick up the knitting needles and realize this exact pattern by knitting it from yarn.

The video tutorial shows how to knit raglan from top to bottom with a one-piece stand-up collar. There is a knitted placket for fastening your item with buttons. The stand-up collar is knitted with an elastic band, and the main knitting is done with a dense mesh knitting pattern, so it is just right for creating warm clothes - coats, cardigans, warm sweaters.

The mesh pattern with reduced needle diameter provides a bouclé effect. The lesson includes a description of knitting the neckline, the raglan itself and the fastening strap, and how a blouse is created on this basis will be discussed in the next lesson.

Video lesson:

It describes in detail how to create knitted items for small children. We don’t just knit raglan cardigans for children; as you knit, you can adjust all sizes according to the baby’s height. The raglan line on the blouse is wide and has a beautiful pattern. Raglan is knitted from the top, that is, you first need to measure the baby’s neck and perform all the necessary calculations.

To form the collar, we knit eight rows in garter stitch, after which the loops are distributed in detail along the raglan. The pattern along the raglan line resembles a branch with leaves. The knitting is detailed in the stitches right down to the herringbone pattern at the bottom of the blouse.

Video lesson:

A video course is offered on how to knit raglan for approximately size 42-44 when starting from the top. To calculate the number of loops, you need to knit a control sample, wash it to dry, and then determine the exact number of loops needed.

It describes in detail how to calculate the number of loops, how many need to be provided if a front is to be knitted for fastening, and how to form a sprout that ensures the height of the back is higher than the front. Once the pattern is fully developed, you can begin knitting, which is shown in detail on the screen.

Video lesson:

Knitting a beautiful item for women is made from thick acrylic or wool yarn using circular knitting needles number four. The 80 stitches that make up the cardigan neck are distributed across the front, back and sleeves, with raglan lines of two stitches separating them.

The pre-compiled diagram also takes into account the sprout - the difference in height of the back and front parts of the cardigan. It tells in detail and shows how the intended pattern is made from yarn with a gradual increase in the number of loops until the result is a finished warm and beautiful thing.

Video lesson:

The cardigan is knitted from wool blend yarn with a sprout for sizes 42-44. At the same time, the principles of calculating loops for any other size are described. The loops are distributed between the back, front with placket and sleeves, separated by raglan lines from one loop. Starting from the sleeves, a sprout is knitted, the difference in height between the back and front. The procedure is explained according to the diagram and shown in reality.

Markers are used to mark the location of the raglan lines. The beginning of the work is shown, the final formation of the cardigan itself is the subject of consideration in the next lesson.

Video lesson:

The stitches are cast on on circular needles and the knitting will be done in the round using garter stitch. The beginning of the row is marked with a marker. As you knit, it is explained how many stitches will go on the front, back and sleeve. To obtain a sprout, loops are added to make the back higher than the front. This difference is called germ.

The loops that form the volume of the chest are also taken into account if women's clothing is knitted. Further knitting is quite simple: all the intricacies of raglan clothing are explained in detail in the video tutorial, so there will be no problems with continuing the work.

Video lesson:

The proposed master class tells how to knit a sweater for a child with a raglan sleeve when starting knitting from the bottom. The back and front are knitted together up to the armpits, starting with a five-centimeter elastic band, and then with a pattern, the creation of which is dedicated to a separate video tutorial.

Separately, two sleeves are knitted on five needles in stockinette stitch, adding one loop each to widen the sleeves. Both sleeves are attached to the main part of the sweater and are knitted together with a gradual decrease in stitches along the raglan lines. Next, a neckline with a sprout is formed so that the back is slightly higher than the front.

Video lesson:

/ 02/13/2017 at 12:27

Greetings, my dears!

Once on the blog I posted a detailed master class about, in which one of the types of raglan lines with this method of knitting was discussed. But there are a great many raglan lines (abbreviated RL), and today let's look at how to knit other simple raglan lines with knitting needles on top. I highlighted such lines as the simplest ones because, having understood the principle itself, you can invent them yourself in your own way. The main thing is that they fit well with the main pattern.

And the main principle is clear and obvious: along the raglan lines, loops should be added evenly for the details of the front, back and sleeves. Loops are added, as a rule, after 1 row (in the front rows) 1 loop on both sides of the RL. Thus, it turns out that in total, thanks to the raglan lines, 8 loops are added per row - 2 for each of the 4 RL.

• True, there are exceptions, as, for example, in the case of the above-mentioned master class. There, 2 loops were added on each side after 3 rows, which in total turns out the same as 1 loop per row. By the way, if suddenly something is unclear from the following, then it is advisable to read the article with this MK, since the materials of the articles are related.

There are times when you don’t want to highlight the raglan line. In this case, it seems to imitate a seam. Here's what it looks like in regular garter stitch:

And this is what the same radar looks like on a more complex pattern (this):

This RL is knitted as follows. First we do. To the total quantity we add 4 loops for RL. That is, for each RL you will need only one loop!

Then we cast on the loops minus the front loops (remember? To get a sprout, for the front we gradually add loops with air loops, while simultaneously forming a recess for the front). From this one loop intended for RL, you will need to knit 3 loops in the front rows - front, front:

Knitting 3 loops from one loop (knit, yarn over, knit).

In the first row for knitting the product, we distribute the loops as follows: edge loop, 1 loop for the RL (we immediately knit 3 from it), the number of sleeve loops, 1 loop for the RL (we knit 3 from it), then the number of back loops, 1 loop for the RL (we knit 3 from it), number of loops for the second sleeve, 1 loop for RL (knit 3 from it), edge loop.

In the purl rows, we purl three RL loops formed from knitting 3 loops from the 1st loop in the previous row (but if you knit everything garter stitch, then knit these loops with knit stitches too). In the next front rows the RL is already visible, that is, you can see where you made 3 from 1 loop. Now from the middle loop of these 3 loops you knit 3 again, and include 2 side loops in the main pattern according to its pattern.

Raglan line with yarn overs on both sides

Another type of simple radar. Here everything is simpler than simple: take one or 2 loops (this will be the central axis of the raglan line), knit them in all rows with either the front or purl stitch, and on both sides of them in the front rows make a yarn over. In the purl rows, these yarn overs can be knitted with ordinary purl loops - then the RL will have holes, like here (I dare say, a rather primitive example, and not entirely aesthetic, in my opinion. I am showing it only to make it easier to explain the meaning):

If you knit the yarn over in the purl rows with a regular purl loop (1 loop between the yarn overs).

Or in the purl rows you knit yarn overs with crossed loops in the rhythm of the main pattern. Then it will look something like this:

If you knit the yarn over with a crossed loop (2 loops of the front stitch between the yarn overs).

What's good about this method? And the fact that as the “axis” for the RL you can take not only 1-2 loops, but also any vertical track of some pattern - narrow or wider. It could be, or a tourniquet. There may be some vertical element of an openwork pattern.

It is only advisable to knit one loop of purl stitch on the sides of the braid, or this vertical element, in order to somehow separate them, and next to these purl loops add yarn overs.

Such an RL can serve as an additional decoration for the product. And it might look, for example, like this:

With this method, in each specific case you need to think about how to calculate the loops. If the “axis” of the raglan line is wide enough, then the loops of this “axis” should be included in the number of calculated loops for the front, back and sleeve parts.

• Example: Suppose you have already done this, and for the back along the neckline you need 35 loops, and for one sleeve - 15 loops (on the front, if you remember, we do not cast on loops, only on the RL front). You want to make the “axis” of the raglan line, on each side of which there are 1 loop of purl stitch, as here:

In total, the “axis” of such a RL needs: 8+2=10 loops. Consider that half of these loops belong to one part, and half to the one adjacent to it, that is, of these 10 loops, 5 are, for example, on the shelf, and 5 on the sleeve.

For the first row we cast on: 35 (number of back loops) + 30 (number of loops for 2 sleeves) + 10 (number of loops for 2 halves of the front rib) + 2 edge loops - 77 loops in total. And when you knit the first row, then between the raglan lines for the sleeve and back, take the number of loops minus the RL loops.

Thus, the calculation of the loops for the first row is as follows: edge yarn over, yarn over for adding along the RL, 10 loops for the RL axis (braid + 2 purls on the sides of it), yarn over for adding, 5 loops in the main pattern for the sleeve, yarn over for adding, 10 loops for the axis RL, yarn over for increase, 25 loops with main pattern for back, yarn over for increase, 10 loops for RL axis, yarn over for increase, 5 loops with main pattern for sleeves, yarn over for increase, 10 loops for RL axis, yarn over for increase, edge.

Simple raglan line of 2 loops 3 loops

This RL is similar to the one described in the MK mentioned at the beginning of the article, but knitted a little easier. There are also “fans” here, only they are knitted not from 3 loops 5 in 3 rows, but from 2 loops 3 loops in a row. When calculating the loops, you need to take into account that on each side of the part there will be 2 loops for the RL fans.

For the first row we cast on: loops for the back and 2 sleeves + 4 loops for 2 front rows + 2 edge loops. In the first row we knit: the edge, from 2 loops 3 loops (front RL fan), right next to 2 loops 3 (sleeve RL fan), then we knit with the main pattern the number of sleeve loops minus 4 loops on the RL, again 2 fans of 2 loops 3 times in a row, then the number of back loops minus 4 loops for RL, 2 times in a row of 2 loops 3 loops, number of sleeve loops minus 4 loops for RL, 2 times in a row of 2 loops 3 loops , edge

In even rows, 3 loops, which were formed by knitting from 2 loops in the previous row, are knitted with purl loops.

In the subsequent front rows, we include the side loops from the pair of fans of the previous front row into the main pattern, and from the pair of those 2 that are located next to each other, we again knit 3 loops each:

Knitting “fans” from 2 loops 3 (insert the knitting needle into 2 loops at once and knit 3 loops - knit, yarn over, knit).

And, if you wish, you can put either 1 purl or 1 knit stitch between the fans, if you want there to be no holes in such a RL:

1 purl loop is inserted between the “fans”.

1 front loop is inserted between the “fans”.

General recommendations when choosing the main pattern and raglan line

In order to choose the right raglan line for your product, in my opinion, the rule should be this: any RL can be suitable for simple, finely textured patterns - both simple, unobtrusive, and beautiful wide, for example, in the form of a braid.

But the larger and more intricate the main pattern, the simpler the RL should look. Or it should somehow “echo” the main pattern. It all depends on your taste and inner sense of harmony.

And what’s also very important: if you use not just stocking or garter stitch as the main pattern, but a pattern with 2 loops or more, then this pattern should diverge symmetrically away from the raglan line! Otherwise the view will not be the same...

It is for this reason that not every pattern can be suitable for knitting a raglan top. It’s just not always possible to choose a pattern so that it is symmetrically located along the raglan lines, and at the same time so that the number of loops for the parts suits you. In a word, every time you need to think through and calculate everything very well.

Well, that's all for now. I will be glad if this material is useful. And then, perhaps, there will be a continuation: we will consider other, more complex types of raglan lines...