The history of perfumery: from sacred incense to modern fragrances. The history of perfumery - art from antiquity

In the gloomy time of late autumn, I want to remember the bright colors and aromas of spring and summer.
You can see summer photos. And you can also enjoy fragrant aromas, and at the same time remember various interesting stories ...

And only the aroma of blooming roses -

Flying prisoner, locked in glass -

Reminds me of cold and frost

That summer was on earth.
W. Shakespeare

From the history of perfumes and fragrances
Perfume- these are flavoring alcohol solutions of mixtures of fragrant substances. Perfumery has been used for a long time - even in the Bible and in the scrolls of Ancient Egypt there are references to the use of aromatic oils.
Opening the tomb Tutankhamen found 3000 vessels with incense, which, after 300 centuries, exuded aroma!
And the word "perfume""comes from lat. per fumum- “through the smell, through the smoke”), because the ancient « perfumery » began by burning the resinous secretions of incense.

Over time, plants rich in aromatic substances began to be mixed with animal and vegetable oils.
"Tapputi, perfume maker" was mentioned on a cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia. And recently, archaeologists discovered in Cyprus the oldest perfume in the world, made more than 4,000 years ago.
In the ancient Mediterranean, athletes anointed their bodies with fragrant oils before sports competitions. In ancient Egypt, in Heliopolis, the city of the Sun, resins were burned in the morning, myrrh at noon, and kifi at sunset. A glass perfume bottle appeared only in Ancient Rome.


In the ancient world, eau de toilette was used: it was sprinkled on dwellings, domestic animals, it poured out in city fountains, and the air at receptions was filled with its aromas.
People satisfied the need for wonderful smells with flowers and spicy plants, from which the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and Persians made garlands and wreaths. They decorated heroes, decorated dwellings.
Cleopatra and many noble Romans held feasts in halls covered up to the elbow with fragrant rose petals.


Fragrances were among the tricks that Cleopatra won the heart of Mark Antony. She met Antony's fleet on a ship whose sails were soaked in perfume. This is how he described the meeting. Shakespeare: "And the purple sails were filled with such a fragrance that the wind, melting with love, clung to them."
Lawrence Alma-Tadema "Caesar and Cleopatra"


And the Queen of Sheba presented King Solomon at the meeting with spices and incense, which he had not yet seen - a royal gift!
But with the fall of the Roman Empire, perfumery became the property of the East.

Arabian chemist al-Kindi(Alkindus) wrote a book on spirits in the 9th century. It contains more than a hundred recipes for aromatic oils, balms, aromatic waters.
Persian scholar Ibn Sina(Avicenna) extracted the oil from rose flowers by distillation. Before his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oils and crushed herbs or petals, and pink water Avicenna was more subtle, and immediately became popular.
In Europe, made from scented oils mixed with alcohol, first modern perfume were produced in 1370 for the Hungarian Queen Elizabeth and were known in Europe as the Hungarian water.
Italy and then France became the European center of perfume production.
In 1608 in Florence, in the monastery of Santa Maria Novella, the Dominican monks organized the first perfume factory in the world. The dukes and the Pope himself made rich contributions to the factory.
In the 16th century Italian perfume developments were taken to France by perfumer Catherine de Medici René Florentine. His lab was connected to her quarters by a secret passage so that secrets wouldn't be stolen.
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Many interesting stories are connected with famous spirits.

Red Moscow
Red Moscow - legendary spirits, one of the symbols of the Soviet era. These are the perfumes of the New Dawn Moscow factory (before the revolution - Brokar and K).


And such is the history of spirits.
Aroma " Favorite bouquet of the Empress"was created for the Empress Maria Feodorovna by August Michel, the perfumer of the Brocard and Co. house for the 300th anniversary of the Romanov dynasty in 1913. For successfully presented " Favorite bouquet…” and “For many years of high-quality deliveries” in 1913, “Brocard and Co” was made the Supplier of the Imperial Court.

The production of the fragrance was resumed by August Michel at the New Dawn factory in 1925 under the name " Red Moscow».
(In 1917, the Brocard factory was nationalized and renamed Zamoskvoretsky Soap Factory No. 5. August Michel suggested the name New Dawn.)
According to the official version, the perfume "Red Moscow" was created in 1925. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of People's Commissar V. M. Molotov and friend of Nadezhda Alliluyeva), and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances. According to perfumers, the fragrance of "Red Moscow" could not have been invented in 1913: the technology was insufficient to produce such a perfume. Probably the creators were inspired by the aroma of the "Empress's Favorite Bouquet" - it's impossible to find out, it is not known exactly which notes were used to create the pre-revolutionary legend.
Top notes of fragrance- bergamot and neroli, complemented by grapefruit and coriander.
Heart notes - tones jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, with a slight touch nutmeg.
AND plume aroma - a luxurious combination of irises, vanilla, amber and tonka bean.


« Red Moscow"Gained worldwide popularity, won awards at international exhibitions, for example, in 1958 at the World Exhibition in Brussels. At the same exhibition, the gold medal was awarded to the perfume " Black Casket" and "Stone Flower" and cologne "Northern”- all of them were created by the head perfumer of the New Dawn, August Michel. But, in 1937, he was arrested on slander ...
For many, this fragrance is associated with wonderful childhood memories, when life was bright and serene. And spirits again began to come into fashion. Novaya Zarya began releasing a version of the fragrance, but the smell remained the same - a multifaceted, recognizable fragrance!

There is an urban legend about the similarity of aromas " Red Moscow"And" Chanel No. 5". At the same time, either Soviet perfumes are interpreted as an attempt to copy the famous fragrance, or it is alleged that the French fragrance was synthesized by Ernest Bo (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) based on the "Empress's Bouquet".
« Favorite bouquet of the Empress" in the sources are often confused with the aroma of " Bouquet empress”, which was developed by Heinrich Brokkar (1836-1900) no later than 1882. Therefore, Brocard is often considered the author of The Bouquet of the Empress in 1913, but Brocard died in 1900.
And the stories about Brocard are also full of legends.

Brocard
The French perfumer Heinrich (Henri) Brocard decided to try his luck in Russia in 1861.
He founded a factory and started his own production with soap.
To increase sales, "Children's" soap "was produced in the form of bunnies and cats, and for older children - with letters of the alphabet. For adults, Charlotte, Brocard's wife, came up with a multi-colored soap in the form of vegetables. (By the way, it was Brocard who first began to use ecological dyes of plant origin). A piece of soap from Brocard cost only a penny and quickly gained popularity in Russia.

Brokar began to think about how to get closer to the Emperor's court. Indeed, in Russia, any product used by the royal family became popular.
And soon the opportunity presented itself to present a gift to the daughter of Alexander II.
This story is similar to Andersen's fairy tale.
“In the summer of 1873,” said Brokar’s biography, “Her Imperial Highness Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, Duchess of Edinburgh visited Moscow. At the Highest Reception, Heinrich Brocard brought a bouquet of flowers to Her Imperial Highness…”
It was a bouquet of wax flowers: scarlet roses, delicate violets, daffodils, lilies of the valley. The flowers were artfully made of wax, and each of the flowers exuded a fragrance indistinguishable from natural. All these aromas merged into one - amazing, bewitching ...
The bouquet produced a complete illusion of real flowers and caused everyone's surprise. "Her Imperial Highness expressed her pleasure to Genrikh Afanasyevich and thanked him."
And soon Heinrich Brokar created perfume " Bouquet empress", which combined the aromas of flowers that were part of that famous bouquet. Perfume " Bouquet empress"(Do not confuse with" The Empress's Favorite Bouquet "!) became instantly popular.
Brokar was allowed to be called the supplier of the Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna.


By the way, this is not the first spectacular invention of Brocard.
Here is the story (or legend) of his marriage.
Brocard liked Charlotte Rave, but the girl's heart was occupied by a famous singer. However, Brokar did not back down. At one of his home concerts, he brings a basket of wax violets to Rave and puts them on the piano. The insidious perfumer knew the secrets of smells. It turned out that the smell of violets adversely affects the ligaments. As a result, Mademoiselle Charlotte's lover disgraced himself, and Brocard soon married Charlotte.
This story and the life of Brokar is told in a historical miniature V. Pikul "The Fragrant Symphony of Life".
Perfumes and inventions by Brocard
Charlotte helped Broccarat in many ways, we can say that she was an excellent marketer and PR manager.
For the opening of a new store, they came up with a surprise novelty - combine products into a "line"". Were released sets"Glory", which included 10 items of perfumery: soap, lipstick, perfume, cologne, sachet, cream - ten items in one box.

And the price is one ruble. Customers literally burst into the opened store.
And another new Broccarat product - cologne "Flower"- was presented in an extremely spectacular way!

Fragrant fountain from this cologne, which beat in the center of the pavilion, became a sensation First All-Russian Industrial and Art Exhibition(1882). Newspapers wrote about how exhibition visitors collected free cologne in jars and bottles brought from home, dipped clothes or handkerchiefs into the fountain.

A "Flower" cologne received a Gold medal.

Spirits of Brocard Lilas de Perse, « persian lilac» received in 1889 Big gold medal on International Exhibition in Paris- a hit, on a par with Ernest Beaux's Chanel No5, Broccard's competitor.
These perfumes continued to be produced in the 20th century in Soviet Russia, they inspired the modern author Nikolai Kolyada to create a play of the same name, especially for Liya Akhedzhakova. Already in honor of the play, the perfume was re-released at the New Dawn in the 21st century.
Perfume bottles were distinguished by their beauty and grace. Prominent artists were involved in the creation of bottles and labels.
Brocard and Co produced and postcards.
These were not only advertising, but also informative postcards, the series “nations”, “Views of Moscow”, reproductions of paintings were issued.

By the beginning of the 20th century, the factory began to be called “ Brokar's empire". By 1913, Brocard had won eight gold medals at the world exhibitions in Paris, Nice and Barcelona.
And in 1913, the son of Heinrich Brocard, Alexander, became the supplier of the royal court. Now the factory is known as the New Dawn. And since 2004, perfumery products have been produced under the brand name " Nouvelle Etoile».
Cologne "Northern". Its original bottle is made in the form of an iceberg, and the cork is a polar bear standing on top of a snow block.

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Chanel No. 5
Perfume is invisible, but an unforgettable, unsurpassed fashion accessory. It announces the appearance of a woman and continues to remind her when she is gone."
Coco Chanel.
Chanel no. 5- the famous fragrance of the Chanel brand, created in 1921 by perfumer Ernest Beaux. Ernest Bo- Perfumer of the royal court, who fled Russia after the 1917 revolution.
According to legend, Coco Chanel asked Mr. Beau to create "an artificial fragrance that smells like a Woman", emphasizing that by "artificial" she meant a man-made fragrance.
The perfumer presented Mademoiselle Chanel with ten fragrances, from which she chose the fifth one - hence the name. Besides, " five" was Coco Chanel's favorite number. She presented a new collection of her dresses on the 5th of the fifth month (May), and decided that the number 5 would bring success.
Susie Parker - the famous actress of the 50s presents the perfume Chanel No. 5

Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, lemon

It wasn't just the scent that was revolutionary.

Until now, manufacturers have produced bottles of various shapes, overloading them with ornaments. And Gabrielle (Coco) offered a simple bottle in the shape of a parallelepiped, which allowed you to admire the golden liquid hidden in it.
These perfumes were in special demand in the USA.
After Marilyn Monroe to a reporter's question, "What do you wear at night?" - answered: "A few drops of Chanel No. 5."


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Cologne
Popular perfumery product - cologne(from the French "Eau de Cologne" - "Cologne water") appeared in 1709.
In Cologne, a native of Italy Giovanni Maria Farina ran a perfume shop. Giovanni, from his uncle, got a recipe for fragrant water, which he decided to improve.
As a basis, Giovanni took citrus oils (lemon, orange, grapefruit), to which he added oils of cedar, bergamot and some herbs. In a letter to his brother, he writes: "My fragrance is reminiscent of a spring morning in Italy after the rain, oranges, lemons, grapefruit, bergamot, zest, flowers and herbs of my homeland."
The name of the fragrant solution was given by the author in honor of Cologne: - Eau de Cologne(Cologne water).
Oddly enough, the war contributed to the spread of cologne.
During the period (1756-1763) Cologne was captured by French troops. The French warriors liked the cologne. Soon the cologne ended up in Paris, where it quickly gained popularity.
At the same time, "Cologne Water" came to Russia, it was presented by a former enemy in the Seven Years' War, King Frederick II of Prussia. The cologne immediately became popular in.

In Cologne there is a memorial plaque to the creator of the famous "Cologne water"
Also created here museum, in which you can trace the entire history of cologne, "tasting" aromas.


Russian perfumers added three essential oils to the cologne: bergamot, lemon and neroli, and called them " Triple».

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Chypre
Chypre(fr. Chypre, "Cyprus") is a popular perfume and cologne, the fragrance of which was created in 1917 by the famous French perfumer Francois Coty.
The composition of "Chipra" includes a mixture of aromas of oak moss, bergamot, patchouli, sandalwood and incense. The basis of the chord was

Throughout the history of mankind, perfumery has played a huge role in the life of a person who, since ancient times, has strived to look better, smell better and feel better - in a word, to be the best.

Most of us don't think about how long ago perfume came into existence - we just know that we want to use our favorite scent to feel attractive and irresistible.

However, if you even superficially study the history of perfumery, you can see that this was by no means the original goal of the compilers of aromatic compositions.

From the depths of centuries

The origin of the art of perfumery is hidden in the depths of millennia. The sense of smell played a significant role in the life of primitive man. It was of central importance in the search for animal and plant food, assessing its suitability, identifying dangers and predators.

Over 15 thousand years BC people learned how to make fire on their own. Sitting by the fire, throwing fragrant branches into the fire juniper, cedar or fragrant herbs, they felt a fragrant aroma.

Representing the sky as the abode of gods, higher powers, which for the most part are hostile to people, a person was looking for means to appease them, to get protection. Using proven means - prayer, sacrifice and fragrant smoke, he cherished the hope of avoiding heavenly punishment.

The ritual of incense as an integral part of the rite of worship of the gods, higher powers is found in all countries and cultures, it has survived to our time.

With great certainty, we can conclude that the appearance of this ritual is associated with the general evolution of a person, his consciousness, and not with the manifestation of any one culture.

In the future, the use of aromatic plants had a certain meaning - improving the taste properties of food, healing effect, appeasement of higher powers, etc.

The first perfumes - incense

The "invention" of perfume is attributed to the ancient Egyptians. The first perfumes were actually incense, fragrant substances that were burned during religious rites.

For this purpose, aromatic substances were used by the ancient Greeks and the ancient Romans. Moreover, the word "perfume" comes from the Latin "per fumum", which means "through the smoke."

It was by burning aromatic woods and resins that our ancestors obtained incense - the first perfumes that were used for religious ceremonies and rituals. There were special vessels in the temples, where the believers had to drain the sacrificial oils.

Images and sculptures of the gods were smeared with fragrant oils almost daily. The most suitable sacrificial gift was considered incense .

For cult incense, cedar resin was used, incense and myrrh. Small balls or lozenges of aromatic substances were placed in special tubes (smokers).

The evolution of perfumery occurs simultaneously with the emergence and improvement of primitive decorative cosmetics.

But neither face paint nor incense was originally intended to attract the opposite sex; their purpose was to bring the favor of the gods.

The Egyptians were very religious. That is why they took the art of perfume making so seriously - they believed that the gods would be favorable to them if they smelled good, if they surrounded themselves with pleasant smells.

Moreover, the Egyptians, even after death, managed to exude not a cadaverous stench, but a pleasant aroma. The ancient Egyptians believed in the transmigration of souls.

According to them, after the human soul leaves the body, it inhabits an animal and incarnates in the form of all kinds of creatures for three thousand years, until it finally takes on a human form again.

This belief explains the excessive care with which the Egyptians embalmed their dead so that the soul, after a long journey, could find its former shell and return to it.

During embalming, the body cavity cleared of the insides was filled with crushed myrrh, cassia and other aromatic substances, except incense .

Several times a year, the mummies were taken out and funeral rites were performed over them with great honors. These rituals included smoking incense, ritual libations. Aromatic oils were poured over the mummy's head.

Incense was prepared in temple workshops by priests according to standard recipes, the texts of which were carved on stone walls. The volume and weight ratios of the components, the duration of the procedures, yields and losses were indicated.

Thus, the ancient Egyptian priests can be called the first professional perfumers.

The use of perfume becomes individual

For many years, incense and primitive perfumes were used only by priests who conducted religious rites, and rare rich people.

Over time, those who were rich and powerful enough to afford to buy fragrances began to use them not only for religious ceremonies, but also for more mundane purposes.

To smell good, aromatic wood and aromatic resins were soaked in water and oil, and then the whole body was smeared with this liquid.

When this practice became generally accepted, the priests were forced to give up their "monopoly" on precious fragrances.

Continuing to be present in all religious ceremonies, aromatic substances are increasingly used as hygiene products and luxury items.

The next logical step was the use of aromatic oils in the baths. The luxurious baths of the ancient Greeks and Romans owe their appearance to the clean Egyptians.

The aromatic oils protected their skin from dryness in hot climates. This is how the first creams and ointments for primitive moisturizers appeared.

Soon, fragrant oils were added to natural plant resins and balms, which athletes used before competitions, and beautiful Athenians used for seduction and pleasure.

A whole ritual of sequential application of equal aromatic substances was carried out at marriage.

The Greeks were the first in history to add spices and spices to the composition of perfumes (now not a single oriental fragrance can do without them), as well as fragrant flower oils; most often used roses, lilies or violets, which were held in high regard by the Greeks.

In ancient Greece, the first official perfumers appeared, who made fragrant compositions from oils of saffron, iris, sage, lily, anise, and cinnamon.

It is said that the Greeks were the first to create liquid perfumes, although they differed significantly from the modern counterpart.

For the preparation of perfumes, the Greeks used a mixture of aromatic powders and oils (particularly olive and almond) - and no alcohol.

After Ancient Greece and the East, spirits penetrate into Ancient Rome. The ancient Romans, who carefully monitored hygiene, lubricated the body several times a day, not only the body, but also the hair.

In the Roman baths (terms) one could find vessels with aromatic oils for every taste, of all shapes and sizes. The Romans bathed at least three times a day, so the homes of wealthy Romans always had stocks of aromatic oils and other fragrant substances.

The Romans also used perfumes to scent rooms, especially during feasts, where a lot of people gathered. For this, spirits were applied to the wings of pigeons and the birds were released into the room.

During the flight, the perfume was sprayed and flavored the air. In addition, the heads of guests at feasts were refreshed by slaves, spraying perfume on them.

When the wife of Nero Pompey died, he ordered to burn in her honor incense more than Arabia could produce in ten years.

The Romans, like the Greeks, contributed to the improvement of the technique of making perfumes. They began to use the technique of maceration (immersion of aromatic substances in oils) and pomace under pressure.

Fragrant raw materials are brought here from Egypt, India, Africa and Arabia. In many aromatic substances, the Romans were the first to discover healing properties.

The love of fragrances reached its peak at a time when the empire was in decline. Even the thresholds of houses, furniture and military equipment, as well as dogs and horses, began to be poured with perfume.

A beautiful vessel for exquisite fragrance

The Egyptians treated incense with great respect, and believed that they could only be stored in the most beautiful and expensive vessels.

The Egyptians made every effort to create especially beautiful vessels for aromatic resins and oils. To do this, they used such exotic materials as alabaster, ebony and even porcelain.

But the glass bottle for perfume familiar to us appeared only in ancient Rome. It replaced the clay vessels used by the Greeks.

Spirits spread all over the world

With the advent and development of the Christian religion, the widespread use of aromatic substances somewhat fades, both in everyday life (spirits began to be associated with frivolity), and in religious rites.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, the use of perfumes declined; in Europe, perfumery art practically disappears, but in the Arab East it reaches its greatest prosperity.

Among the Arabs, aromatic substances were valued as highly as precious stones.

The Arabs played a huge role in the development of perfume art. The Arab physician and chemist Avicenna developed the process of oil distillation (extraction of oil from flowers).

Avicenna tested his invention on roses. So it appeared rose oil.

Before Avicenna, liquid perfumes were made from a mixture of oil and crushed stems or flower petals, so the perfume had a very strong, rich aroma.

Thanks to the process developed by Avicenna, the process of preparing perfumes was greatly simplified, and "rose water" quickly became very popular.

In the 12th century, through Venice, the crusaders again imported into Europe the art polished in the East - to decorate and cleanse your body with aromatic substances and smells.

As this art becomes more widespread in medieval Europe, more and more aromatic compounds and, as a result, new aromas appear.

The use of perfume has become a status symbol, a sign of high position in society. Only those with a lot of money could afford expensive fragrances. Wealthy Europeans ordered aromatic resins from China.

Gradually, the use of perfume became a tradition. It was in the Middle Ages that Europeans finally approached cleanliness and hygiene. Ablutions, baths, steam rooms came into fashion.

Fragrant rosaries, scented fur collars, rose petal pillows, and “scented apples” worn on chains or bracelets became popular.

At the same time, aromatic products were used in medicine. Fumigation was used to fight the plague rosemary or berries juniper.

The most famous in medieval Europe was the legendary perfume "eau de Hongrie", created in 1370 on the basis of orange blossom, roses, mint, melissa, lemon and rosemary.

At this time, the "essence" appears neroli”, an extract from orange blossoms, which is still used today.

Another important invention of Europeans is the fragrance “a la frangipane”, named after the Italian perfumer Frangipani, who used bitter almonds in the manufacture of perfumes, which had previously been used only in cooking.

The mysterious and inexplicable nature of smells has always attracted humanity. Subtle aromas of flowers, spicy smells of trees and resins - all this evoked and continues to evoke reverent delight in a person. It is impossible to say with certainty who and when first realized that it is possible to learn how to extract their fragrant quintessence from natural substances. Most likely, this happened at the dawn of the development of mankind, when a branch of sandalwood or coniferous resin fell into the fire. Since then, one of the most fascinating pages in the development of civilization began - the history of perfumery.

The history of perfumery: how did it all begin?

The exact date of birth of perfume art is lost in the mists of time. It is only known that it appeared in the ancient southern and eastern countries - in particular, in Mesopotamia and Arabia. At first, the scope of the use of incense was rather limited and consisted of religious rites and sacrifices. And only after some time, fragrant suits became more widespread.

The pioneers in the world of smells were the Egyptians. During the time of Queen Cleopatra, who, by the way, herself composed some aromatic compositions, the use of incense and body rubs spread to the highest circles of the Egyptian aristocracy.

From the Egyptians, the art of preparing and using aromatic potions was adopted by the Israelites, Assyrians, Romans and Greeks. In the ancient world, frankincense, rose, santal, musk, myrrh and other fragrances that are still widely used were especially popular. Many Roman emperors (such as Calligula, Otho and Nero) had a special weakness for refined incense, instilling this habit in noble patricians.

The history of perfumery would not be complete if the Arabs did not add important touches to its canvas. The legendary healer Avicenna was the first to extract the odorous constituent of plants through the process of distillation. It was he who first received the famous rose water.

India, with its richness of flora, also did not stand aside from the development of the art of perfumery. It was on her lands that incense was made with the aromas of patchouli, sandalwood, amber, vetiver, musk, cinnamon, cloves, camphor, rose and jasmine.

Perfumes in European countries

As for Europe, for a long time it was immune to the magical charm of incense. The first enlighteners of the wild barbarians in this respect were the Roman legionnaires. However, as soon as Roman dominion fell under the onslaught of the warlike Goths and Huns, the beginnings of a refined reverence for smells again disappeared into oblivion.

The situation changed with the beginning of the Crusades, when the knights who returned from the eastern lands brought fragrant gifts to the ladies of the heart. In the 12th century, the first perfumeries were already operating in France, but three centuries later, with the start of the production of alcohol, perfumery moved to a new stage of development. Since that moment, the history of perfumery and cosmetics has developed by leaps and bounds: perfumes, eau de toilette, cologne, fragrant ointments and ointments have become a prerequisite for the existence of any self-respecting aristocrat, and a little later they moved to the masses.

France has become the mecca of perfume lovers (and, by the way, it remains so to this day). The foundations of this art, laid in the city of Grasse, influenced the development of the ability to compose aromatic compositions all over the world. During Napoleon's time, the use of cologne and eau de toilette reached its peak. The fashion for everything French, which overwhelmed the upper strata of Russian society, implied the use of real French perfumes. As for England, here Puritan traditions and moral laws did not allow the use of too heavy fragrances - it was simply indecent.

In the 20th century, the profession of a perfumer not only did not give up its positions, but, on the contrary, became even more in demand. With the development of the fashion industry and the creation of the first fashion houses, the need for new fragrances has increased even more. The very perception of perfumery was also changing: from now on, not only the smell itself was important, but also the design of the bottle, its size, shape, color, ease of use. From the very beginning of the 20th century and until now, the leading gurus of the fashion and cosmetic industry have regularly pampered their fans with new fragrances.

Summing up

The history of perfumery is another proof that humanity (and especially the fair sex) is doing everything possible to once again emphasize its attractiveness. And the smell harmoniously matched to the image only enhances it.

People have been using fragrances since ancient times. The very word "perfumery" from the Latin language means "smoke" - "fumum". This suggests that ancient people created incense by burning leaves, wood, various spices - in a word, everything that emitted a pleasant smell when burned.

The history of the creation of perfumes begins in ancient Egypt, about five thousand years ago. There is evidence that it was then that perfume began to be used. However, the famous rose water was invented by the Arabs. About 1300 years ago they learned how to get it from rose petals. Then rose water was widely used as a medicine. Of course, rose oil gave a stronger aroma, but for most people it was out of reach due to its high cost.

How was the aroma extracted from plants in ancient times? People obtained essential oils by "enfleurage", using mainly flowers. This is a very complex and time-consuming process, so it is not used today. It consists in the fact that petals were laid out on a piece of glass, lubricated, as a rule, with purified lard. After the fat absorbed all the aroma from the plant, the petals were replaced with others. And so on until the fat is maximally saturated with smell.

The technology for obtaining essence today is much simpler. A special solvent is passed through the petals, it is impregnated with essential oil. Then they are separated, and the essential oil is purified with alcohol. Various flowers (jasmine, rose, violet, lavender), tree wood, especially sandalwood, and plant roots are used to make perfumes today.

Throughout the history of the creation of perfumes, many new ingredients have appeared that make up their composition. However, today there are very few natural-based perfumes, and they are quite expensive. Most of the products produced are the fruit of the work of chemists who are able to imitate almost any floral scent. It is very difficult to distinguish it from the natural smell. This can only be done by a professional perfumer.

Whether inspiring, light, elegant or passionate - fragrances have been present in human life since ancient times. Perfumery has firmly established itself in the modern world, it is a special art. The creation of fragrances is accessible to people with extraordinary talent. At the same time, the history of perfumery is full of interesting facts, which makes you appreciate your favorite smells.

Fragrances from antiquity

The exact place of origin of perfumery art is unknown. It is believed that this is Mesopotamia or Arabia. The world's first professional chemist, a man named Taputti, is mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd century BC. e. Perhaps it was a woman. Italian archaeologists discovered in 2005 a huge perfume factory in Cyprus. It was built over 4,000 years ago.

Perfumes are mentioned in ancient Egyptian chronicles. In the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun, about 3,000 vessels were found that contained ancient incense. Even after 300 centuries, the products exuded fragrance. Therefore, in the history of perfumery, the Egyptians are considered one of the founders of this art.

In Greece, aromatic oils and incense were widely used for both religious and domestic purposes. In the city of Rhodes, containers of an unusual shape were made. Ointments and oils were applied to the body for hygiene purposes and just for pleasure.

Islamic culture has made a significant contribution to the development of perfumery. The main innovations in history were:

• the invention of a method for extracting aromas using steam distillation;
• the introduction of new raw materials: musk, amber, jasmine, which are still the main ingredients in perfumery.

With the spread of Christianity, the use of perfume in the Middle East has significantly decreased. But in Muslim countries, incense continued to be used. Perfumers had at their disposal a wide range of spices, herbs, flowers, resins, precious woods. It is recorded in the history of perfumery that the Arabs and Persians traded scented ingredients with the West for centuries.

Flavors of the West

With the fall of the Roman Empire and the invasion of the barbarians, Western culture weakened. This also applies to the art of perfumery. But by the 12th century, thanks to the strengthening of trade and the development of distillation, the situation had changed. Not the last role in this was played by the growth of universities in large cities and the development of alchemy. Medieval society, contrary to popular belief, paid great attention to hygiene. People took fragrant baths and washed linen with fragrant products.

A new vessel for storing aromatic mixtures has appeared - pomander. It was a ball of metal with holes through which the smell seeped through. In the XIV century, liquid perfumes, consisting of essential oils and alcohol, came into use. They became known as toilet water. According to legend, the elderly Queen Elizabeth of Hungary, using such water, rejuvenated and recovered from all diseases.

The great geographical discoveries have greatly influenced the history of the fragrance industry. Marco Polo brought new ingredients from his travels: pepper, cloves and nutmeg. In the 15th century, America was discovered, and Spain and Portugal became the leaders of trade. The composition of toilet water expanded, mixed, musk, amber,.

The secrets of the Venetian perfumers reached France, which quickly became the European cosmetic center. The cultivation of flowers for essential oils has grown to an industrial scale. Mostly in Grasse, which to this day is considered the capital of perfumery.

History of development

In the Age of Enlightenment, perfumes and oils were used especially actively. For example, the palace of King Louis XV was called the "fragrant courtyard", as various pleasant smells were heard from there every day. Scented liquids have been used for leather, fans, wigs, gloves, and even furniture.

After the industrial revolution, the production of perfumery took on an unprecedented scale in Europe. In 1709, Giovanni Paolo Feminis created "Cologne water" -. The composition contained grape spirit and oils of neroli, lavender, lemon, bergamot, rosemary.

In the 19th century, perfume companies became a popular idea, and modern industry owes it to François Coty and Ernest Daltrophe. In perfumery, not only organic, but also synthetic substances began to be used.

The development of this sphere at the beginning of the twentieth century led to a huge. A family appeared, the fashion for types of smells changed. The popularity of saturated perfumes fell, and floral ones became in demand.

In 1921, perfumers discover the properties of aldehydes. The price of perfume is significantly reduced.

In the 60s, women's perfume became lighter and more pleasant. The rise of men's fragrances.

In the 80s, heavy and spicy scents became relevant again, and the fashion for ozone and marine notes appeared.

With the advent of the 90s, the natural floral palette has returned. Contemporary masters continue to experiment with compositions and bottles. Perfume novelties appear almost daily.

• Napoleon Bonaparte used two bottles of "Cologne water" a day. And Empress Josephine loved perfume so much that half a century after her death, the scent of musk was still felt in the royal boudoir.
• The Soviet perfume "Red Moscow" is a replica of the perfume composition "Empress's Favorite Perfume", which was created by the French master August Michel as a gift to Maria Feodorovna Romanova.
• The most expensive perfume in the history of the world is Clive Christian's Imperial Majesty. They are sold in a rock crystal bottle encrusted with gold and diamonds. The cost is more than 200 thousand dollars.
• American biologist Sheref Munsey and Australian perfumer Lucy McRae are developing a new kind of perfume: oral capsules. According to the authors, the human body, together with sweat, will release a unique aroma.

Perfumery has a long and eventful history. From the moment of its inception to the present day, a long and difficult path has been passed. Legends, facts and different people add up a complete picture of the development of this area. A modern variety of flavors allows you to choose the perfect perfume for every taste.