How to build the base of a straight skirt. The perfect skirt: ideas and building the foundation. Peplum pencil skirt

A classic pencil skirt is an essential part of a woman's wardrobe. Being universal, it is the base of any image, giving it femininity and elegance. The history of its creation surprises with a variety of versions - both Coco Chanel and English women are called the authors of the model. But the popularity of the pencil skirt is uniquely due to Christian Dior, who promoted it to the fashion catwalks in the 40s. How to build a pencil skirt pattern, what models can be created on its basis, you will learn from this article.

We will first need to remove three sizes:

waist size (OT) - we measure at the narrowest point, tightly clasping the waist with a tape;
hip volume (OB) - we measure at the most convex places of the buttocks; for ladies with the effect of "riding breeches" we make a measurement for this volume, we use a larger number to build a pattern;
hip height (WB) - we measure on the side from the waist line to the hip line, after tying a thin tape over them for ease of measurement;
product length (CI) - measure from the waist to the planned length.

Measurement locations - see the figure below.

For the subject drawing of a pencil skirt pattern, let's assume that these measurements are:

FROM=70 cm;
OB=98 cm;
CI=74 cm;
WB = 20-22cm (this is the average measurement, it is usually used to build the main pattern; if your parameters are very different from it, use your numbers).

Let's prepare paper for constructing a base pattern (preferably millimeter paper, it is more convenient to set aside dimensions on it), a pattern, a ruler and pencils.

We start from the upper left point, and from there we will move down and to the right.

Stepping back 5 cm from the top and the left edge of the paper, put a point (∙) A. Vertically down, set aside the length of the product - AD. On the right side, we set aside half the volume of the hips plus 1 cm for a free fit = 98/2 + 1 cm = 50 cm - (∙) V. We draw the DC and BC lines.

Side skirt line

We divide the drawn rectangle in half by drawing a perpendicular line to the segments DC and AB.

hip line

From (∙) A lay down 20-22 cm - AL (= hip height). Draw a horizontal line from (∙)L, getting (∙)L1 and (∙)L2.

Dart size calculation

Calculation formula (OB - OT): 2 \u003d (98 - 70): 2 \u003d 14 cm. Of these, 1⁄2 will be removed in the side tucks (14: 2): 2 \u003d 3.5 cm for each. Set aside 3.5 cm from the sideline and connect these (∙) with (∙) L2.

We extend the lines of the darts by 1 cm up.

If the difference between OB and OT is more than 14 cm, two tucks are made at the back. The first one is 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, its depth is 3-4 cm, the length is 13-15 cm. The rest of the segment is divided in half, the depth of the second tuck is 2-3 cm, the length is 12-13 cm.

We connect the curved curve (∙)1 and (∙)A, (∙)1 and (∙)B. We divide the segment L L2 equally and draw a perpendicular to the segment AB. From (∙) B1 we measure to the right along the red pattern line 5-6 cm (the same parameter for all solutions), draw a perpendicular to the line of the hips.

The remaining excess in terms of volume at the waist - 7 cm - is distributed to the tucks of the back and front parts of the skirt. Most - 4 cm will go to the back, the smaller - 3 cm - to the front. The length of the tuck on the back part is 12-13 cm, for the front part - 9-10 cm (the same number for all solutions).

We take the tuck to the left by 5 mm for beauty.

Please note that the deeper the tuck is required, the longer it should be.

Divide the side lines in the areas from the waist to the hips in half and set aside 5 mm from these (∙).

Using a template or by hand, we draw a side line.

Drawn patterns are transferred to tracing paper or other paper. We designate the direction of the shared thread.

The basic cut assumes a seamless front of the skirt. The back part is cut with a seam into which a zipper is inserted. A belt is attached to the waistline.

We build a pencil skirt pattern: video master class

Designing various models of a skirt based on a basic pattern

Tapered skirt with two flounces

For such a model, you first need to complete the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on the Anastasia Korfiati website, you can download a skirt pattern for free.

On the constructed skirt pattern, we perform modeling, as in the figure below. Both front and back we narrow down by one and a half cm. We start narrowing, stepping back 10 cm from the hip line.

The estimated length of the skirt from the waist line is 70 cm.

We draw a shuttlecock on the front part. Then we reshoot it in expanded form separately, correcting the lower edge, smoothing out the stepped transitions at the junction points.

Cutting out a pencil skirt with a frill

Such a model of a pencil skirt is perfectly sewn from knitwear or any dress fabric with elastane additives.

To perform, you will need 1.7 m of fabric with a width of 145 cm. See the main cutting details below. In addition, we cut out a belt with a width of 7 cm (in finished form - 3.5 cm), a length - along the length of the waist plus 3 cm of an increase in the fastener. To strengthen the belt, it is better to use thermal fabric.

When laying out on fabric, keep in mind that the seam allowances should be 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the skirt - 3 cm.

Skirt tailoring

We cut out all the details. We fold the details of the shuttlecocks in pairs with the front side inward, sew along the rounded edge, turn it inside out, baste this edge and iron it.

We bend the shuttlecocks along lines 1 and 2, avoiding asymmetry.

We sweep and stitch the front and back tucks. We iron. We sweep the frills on the front part of the skirt along the marked places on the waist and sides.

We carry out side seams, iron the allowances and process the edges. If you use this pattern for sewing a knitted pencil skirt, then it is better to process the edges of the details with a slanting silk hem. Sew a hidden zipper into the back seam.

Sew on a belt at the waist.

We tuck the bottom of the skirt, overstitching it with a double needle. You can do otherwise - go along the edge with an overlock, bend the edge and manually sew it with a blind seam.

Skirt with buttons: MK video

Peplum pencil skirt

This model is suitable for slender girls. For ladies with size 48 and above, it is better to choose skirts without details that increase the hips.

First you need to build a pattern according to your size (see the step-by-step instructions above) or download it on the Anastasia Korfiati website.

We decide on the style of the Basque. It can be different - the same in length, elongated in the center of the back. Then we build a peplum pattern.

For example, the given finished pattern is drawn for a peplum length of 20 cm without differences along the profile.

For the calculation, we use the formula: R \u003d FROM: 6 - 1 cm. We draw a semicircle, and setting aside 20 cm from it, we draw the second line.

To lengthen the back, we increase one side of the pattern to 25-30 cm. We draw a smooth line connecting the lower ones (∙).

Models of straight skirts with various frills look very impressive. Just keep in mind that the blouse in this case should be concise, without ruffles.

Front slit pencil skirt with vertical flounces

For such a model, you first need to build a basic pencil skirt pattern with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on the Anastasia Korfiati website, you can download a skirt pattern for your size.

We copy on tracing paper in front of the skirt in full turn - see drawing.

For a pencil skirt with a cut, draw a vertical line and cut the pattern.

The back part for the skirt of this model does not change, we cut it out of 2 parts according to the basic drawing.

To the narrower part of the front, add an allowance for the slot. Its width is 8 cm, length is 14 cm.

On the larger part of the front we draw a shuttlecock.

We re-shoot all the elements of the shuttlecock on tracing paper and glue it into a common part along the long sides.

With smooth rounding, you need to create a beautiful outer side of the shuttlecock. How to do it correctly is marked in the drawing with a blue line.

cutting

Main fabric:

front part - 1 pc.;
front side detail - 1 pc.;
rear part - 2 pcs.

Black cotton fabric:

detail for processing a shuttlecock - 1 pc. (on the drawing in blue);
belt - 1 pc. (length is FROM + 4 cm per clasp, width - 7 cm).

Do not forget to take into account the allowances for the seams of 1.5 cm, for the hem of the bottom - 4 cm. We strengthen the belt with a thermal fabric, cut out without allowances.

How this model is sewn

We fold the large part of the front and the part of black fabric for processing the shuttlecock with the right sides inward.

We sweep their outer edge and the outer edge of the slots. We cut the details, cut off the allowances, turn the shuttlecock inside out. We sweep the shuttlecock along the edge, iron it.

We process the side of the front part with an overlock, turn the allowance - 4 cm - onto the slot, and tack.

We impose the central part of the skirt on the side, aligning along the line and basting.

We adjust along the alignment line to the slots.

Sew a zipper into the back seam. Sweep and stitch the side seams.

We tuck the allowance along the bottom to the wrong side and tuck it manually with a blind seam.

Lay the slot and tack with a hidden seam.

We tack the lower part of the frill along the longitudinal side to the skirt with a hidden seam.

We sew a belt, sew a hook for a fastener.

Straight skirt with slit

The skirt with a slit is modeled on the basis of a classic straight model. Interesting details are implemented in it - a yoke with vertical embossed seams, a slot along the back seam, fastened with buttons. Under such a skirt, you can easily pick up a light summer blouse in the kit.

We build a basic pattern according to our size or look for and download a finished one on the Internet. On the site of A. Karfiati there are options for different sizes, you can find online lessons on building drawings of skirts.

How to make a pattern of a pencil skirt with a slot

Now let's start modeling. We lay down 15 cm from the level of the hips. We draw the level of the coquette and cut it off. From the lower (∙) tuck we lower the perpendicular (red dotted line in the drawing). We cut the yoke of the back along the lines of the tuck and the red dotted line. We draw a slot 8 cm wide.

For the front part, repeat the level of the yoke and the perpendicular from the bottom (∙) tuck.

cutting

For the back half, cut out 2 pcs. every detail.

For the front, cut out 2 pcs. side parts of the coquette and 1 pc. other parts with a fold.

In addition, we cut out the belt. Its length is OT + 8 cm for the fastener and free fit.

How to sew

We outline relief seams on both coquettes, we build them with an indent of 7 mm. Baste and stitch the seams on the side of the coquettes. We sew a hidden zipper into the central seam on the back yoke.

From the right side of the lower panel of the back of the skirt we cut off a strip 4 cm long, leaving 4 cm for the hem of the slots on the right and 8 cm on the left. We strengthen the allowance for the slot on both parts with a thermal cloth. The right allowance with a width of 4 cm is tucked and ironed. We sweep along the marking of the loops.

We tuck the left allowance 4 cm and iron it.

We put the right side on the left, sweep at the top.

We sweep the lower panels of the skirt on the sides, we sew.

Sweep the yoke with the bottom part. Sew, stepping back 7 mm from the edge. Sew on the belt.

Wrap skirt: video master class

Draped skirt

A draped element on the sides and a buckle on the stitched belt give this model a special originality. You can sew such a skirt using materials of different composition and color. The main thing is that they are soft, drape beautifully and keep their shape.

We start by building a basic model according to our sizes or we find a ready-made pattern, for example, on A. Korfiati's website.

Next, we will consider the modeling process step by step. Set aside 3 cm down from the waist line on the front part and draw a set-in belt 7 cm wide (blue on the pattern). Belt lines should be smooth. A belt is sewn between (∙) a-a. We re-shoot the belt as a separate element.

Cut the front into two vertical parts along the auxiliary line (red). We cut the left part horizontally along the blue lines and push the drapery between (∙) b-b, adding from 10 to 15 cm for folds.

The back of the skirt is modeled similarly, but without the yoke.

The drawing below shows the modeling of the front part and the middle part with the front yoke.

To process the upper cut, we re-shoot and draw the facings on the front and back panels of the skirt 4 cm wide.

cutting

Details for the pattern, their number - see below. Do not forget about 1.5 cm for the side allowances and 4 cm for the bottom allowance. Details highlighted in dark color are cut out, in addition to the main fabric, from the lining.

Description of sewing model skirt with drapery

We sew the side parts with auxiliary lines with a long stitch (4 mm) in sections b-b. We pick them up to the desired size, distributing evenly.

We sew parts of the coquettes in front. Overcast the allowances with one joint seam and iron them on the coquettes.

We grind the stitched belt along the upper and lower long sides, turn it inside out, and sweep it out. We put on a buckle. We put a belt between (∙) a-a on the central part of the front and tack. Sew the draped details to the central details of the front and back of the skirt.

Sweep and stitch the side seams. Overcast allowances, iron out. Sew a zipper into the center seam of the back piece.

We strengthen the facing of the front and back parts with a thermal fabric, overcast them along the bottom, grind them on the sides. We put the facings on the skirt, combining along the upper sections, we sew along the waist.

We bend the facings up, iron them, sew them along the seam, sewing allowances to the facings.

After that, we again fold it onto the skirt and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper braid. We bend the facings to the wrong side, sweep and iron.

We turn the bottom allowance to the wrong side and hem it with a blind seam.

Pencil skirt with decorative zippers: video MK

Lace pencil skirt

This eye-catching lace skirt is tapered at the bottom and has a slit at the back. The upper transparent skirt is made of black lace, the lining is made of light fabric (satin or any blend).

The average length of a skirt below the knees is 66 cm, but you can sew such a translucent skirt even longer by proportionally increasing the length of the back slit.

We build the main pattern of the skirt or use the finished one, printed from the site of A. Korfiati.

We narrow the front and back halves by 1.5 cm. We draw new lines of the side seams, retreating 10 cm down from the hip line. We outline the length of the cut for 1/3 of the length of the skirt.

For this model we will need:

lace 1.2 m wide - about 0.8 m;
lining fabric 145 cm wide - 0.7 m;
zipper 20 cm long;
threads.

cutting

A transparent lace skirt is cut out from:

back panel - 2 children;

The petticoat is cut out from:

front panel - 1 child. with a fold;
back panel - 2 children;
belt - children. And 8 cm wide, OT + 4 cm long for the clasp.

Description

We lay out the lace details on the front side of the petticoat details, sweep in pairs along the perimeter. Further, the transparent skirt is sewn as a single layer.

On both halves, we sweep and grind the tucks. We sew a zipper. We bast and grind the seams on the sides. We process the allowances with an oblique inlay.

We strengthen the belt with thermal fabric, cut without seam allowances. We sew a belt at the waist.

Black lace pencil skirt is ready!

Leather pencil skirt

A skirt made of leatherette or leather looks great on any type of figure. The main thing is to decide which style and length of the leather pencil skirt suits you. For large women of the 56th or 58th size, you should not sew a short skirt. For them, a long pencil skirt with a slit is better suited.

It should be noted that this type of material is well suited for business style. A tailored jacket or jacket will accentuate your look. A long eco-leather skirt will look interesting with a fur sleeveless jacket and leather boots.

Consider step by step how to sew a leather skirt with an elastic band.

Comment

Keep in mind that not every sewing machine can work with leather. If you have a thin skirt made of eco-leather or leatherette, the sewing process will be simplified. But, if the main material is thick leather, then you will need to sew some seams with an awl.

Measurements on which the pattern is built: CI=45 cm, FROM=67 cm;

We will need:

leather (eco-leather) - 0.5 m;
lining fabric - 0.5 m;
wide elastic band (4 cm) for the belt - 0.7 m;
hidden zipper;
sewing machine, scissors, leather needles, chalk.

Description

We build a pattern of a straight skirt.

We mark all the elements on the main material and on the lining. Cut out, leaving allowances of 1.0 - 1.5 cm.

We sweep away the details of the skirt and lining (separately), leaving the seam on the back not stitched.

We sew all the seams, except for the middle one on the back.

We iron the seam allowances in different directions through a cotton fabric or (for rough skin) we tap with a hammer.

We sweep and then stitch the skin and lining along the bottom of the skirt.

Sew a zipper into the center seam on the back. We carry out the central seam of the back.

We sew a belt from a wide elastic band.

Eco-leather skirt is ready!

Skirt pattern for all types of figures.

We bring to your attention another technique for constructing a pattern of a straight skirt. If the previous technique is designed for the so-called standard shapes and is more suitable for mass tailoring, then this technique is good because it can be used to build a pattern for any shape, including a figure that has deviations from generally accepted standards. This technique, in comparison with the previous one, takes into account some individual characteristics of a particular person.

There are even more precise methods, methods and techniques used to build patterns for individual tailoring of skirts. We will get to know them later.

We start by taking measurements. In order to take measurements correctly, you need to tie a lace or a thin elastic band on the waist line. Moreover, the lace should lie in the place of the body where the belt of the skirt is usually located when worn, and not horizontally on the floor. Otherwise, during wearing, the skirt belt will inevitably tend to take its usual position, which will entail a displacement of the side seams towards the front or back, i.e. violation of their verticality, and hence the violation of the horizontal line of the bottom. The whole appearance of the skirt will suffer from this.

The process of taking measurements should always be approached with special responsibility, since the final result depends on it.

To build a skirt drawing in addition to the waist and hips, you need to take the following measurements:

In our table, as an example, we took measurements of half-girths for size 48, the length is arbitrary, and you take your measurements or the measurements of the person for whom you are going to sew this skirt.

Half waist St		For belt products, the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist is measured at the place of the torso and in the position where the belt of the skirt is usually worn, and not horizontally to the floor. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Semi circumference of the hips Sat		Measure horizontally at the most protruding points of the buttocks, taking into account the bulge of the abdomen. The measurement is recorded in half size.
Distance from waist to floor in front		Measure in the middle of the front, vertically down from the lace at the waistline to the floor. The measure is recorded in full.
Waist to side floor		Measure along the side line vertically down from the lace at the waistline to the floor. The measure is recorded in full.
Distance from the waist to the floor at the back		Measure from the back in the middle of the back vertically down from the lace at the waistline to the floor. The measure is recorded in full.
Distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt		Measure from the floor to the level of the desired length of the skirt. Or they are determined by calculation, subtracting the desired length of the skirt from the distance from the waist to the floor. For example, 102-67(skirt length) = 35cm. The measure is recorded in full.
Back length to waist		Measure from the seventh cervical vertebra to the waist line. The measure is recorded in full.

In addition to the basic measurements, it is necessary to provide for an allowance for a free fit along the waist and hips. These values depend on several factors, such as, for example, the thickness and density of the fabric, the characteristics of a particular figure, the direction of fashion, the wishes of the client, etc. And most importantly, you determine all this based on what tasks you need to solve.
We will take the following additions:
Waistline Fri - 0cm
Along the line of the hips Pb - 1 cm.

Skirt length at the back.
A feature of this technique is that the construction of the pattern does not begin from the waist line, but from the line bottom skirts.
So let's start from the left lower angle with apex at H.
From this point upwards, set aside the length of the skirt at the back. Douz.

To determine back skirt length, we subtract: Distancefrom waist to floor back minus

Douz=101-35=66cm.
Set aside 66 cm from the H point upwards and put the T point.

Hip line.
The distance from the waist line to the hip line usually ranges from 18-20 cm (rarely up to 23 cm), regardless of which way it is determined. Therefore, in some methods, this value is proposed as a constant, for example, 18 cm for all sizes.
You can determine it by the formula - this is 1/2 measurement of the length of the back to the waist minus 1-2 cm, or even easier - take a centimeter and measure this distance on a specific figure.

From point T down, we will postpone the result obtained and put point B. In our example, this is 18cm, we determined it using the above formula (38:2-1 = 18cm).

Draw a horizontal line from point B to the right.

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Skirt width.
We determine the width of the skirt - the half-girth of the hips plus an increase in the free fit.
Sat+Fb=52+1=53cm
From point B to the right, set aside this value and set point B1. Draw a vertical line through point B1. The point of intersection with the bottom line will be denoted by the letter H1.

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Skirt length in front.
To determine the length of the skirt in front Dupe, we subtract: Distancewaist to floor front minusdistance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
In our example, it looks like this:
Dupe=100-35=65cm.
Set aside 65 cm from point H1 upwards and set point T1.

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Side seam.
The position of the side seam can be determined by the formula below, but you should always take into account the characteristics of a particular figure (bulge of the buttocks, protruding belly) and, based on this, shift the side seam in one direction or another.

In our example, the side seam is determined by the formula:
BB1 distance (skirt width) divided by 2 plus 1:

Set aside 27.5 cm from point B1 to the left and set point B2, through which we draw a vertical line. The point of intersection with the bottom line is denoted by the letter H2

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Skirt length on the side.
To determine the length of the skirt on the side, we subtract: Distancewaist to floorsideminusdistance from the floor to the bottom edge of the skirt.
In our example, it looks like this: 102-35 \u003d 67cm, and you carry out calculations with your numbers.
Set aside 67 cm from point H2 upwards and set point T2.

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Waistline
We connect the points T, T2 and T1 with straight lines.

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Calculation of darts along the waist line.
The total opening of darts along the waistline ΣB is determined by subtracting the half-circumference of the waist with an allowance for a free fit from the width of the skirt along the hips, i.e. from the half-girth of the hips with an increase in free fit.
ΣB=(Sat+Pb)-(St+Fri)=(52+1)-(38+0)=15cm
The solution of the front tuck is 0.16-0.2 of the total solution of the darts ΣB:
0.2xΣB=0.2x15=3cm
The back tuck solution is 0.3-0.35 of the total dart solution ΣB:
0.35xΣB=0.35x15=5.2cm
The side tuck solution is 0.45-0.5 of the total dart solution ΣB:
0.45xΣB=0.45x15=6.8cm
The coefficient that you will choose for calculations should reflect the features of a particular figure as accurately as possible.

Check: 3cm+5.2cm+6.8cm=15cm

Front tuck position can be determined by calculation, but it is better to proceed from the features of the figure and, in accordance with them, move the tuck closer to the side line or to the mid-front line, depending on these features (presence and shape of the abdomen). Moreover, the position of the tucks, both on the front and on the back panels, can be determined during the first fitting. Details of this method in the following articles.
In this example, we determine the position of the tuck using one of several existing formulas:

Divide the width of the skirt along the hip line by 5:
BB1:5=53:5=10.6cm

Set aside 10.6 cm from point B1 to the left and set point B3. From this point we draw a vertical line up to the intersection with the waist line and set the point T3.

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Front tuck length.
The length of the front tuck can vary significantly in size (from 6 to 14 cm or more), if we are talking about an individual approach.
From the point T3 down, set aside the length of the tuck.

In our example, we will determine it by the formula, multiplying the tuck solution by 4, we get:
3x4=12cm.

We postpone this value down from point T3 and set point B.

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From the point T3 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the front tuck 3: 2 = 1.5 cm and set the points B1 and B2.

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We connect point B with points B1 and B2. Using a compass, align the sides of the tuck along lesser side and put point B3.

The sides of the darts can be straight and curved. Their configuration depends on the shape of the abdomen. Our conditional client has a flat stomach, so we leave the sides of the tuck straight, and you are guided by these figures of your client.

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Position and length and depth of the back tuck.
The position of the rear tuck can be determined by calculation, similarly to the front tuck, but it is always necessary to take into account the features of the figure, and in accordance with them, adjust the position of the darts. If necessary, move the tuck closer to the side line or to the mid-front line. The length of the back tuck should also be based on the features of a particular figure (shape of the buttocks). It should only be borne in mind that the top of the back tuck should not come closer than 3-4 cm to the hip line (to the protruding point of the buttocks).
We define the position of the back tuck in the same way as the front:
BB1:5=53:5=10.6cm
Set aside 10.6 cm from point B to the right and set point B4. Draw a vertical line from point B4 upwards. At the point of intersection with the waist line, put the point T4.

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From the point T4 down, lay off the length of the tuck 14-15cm and set the point B4.
From the point T4 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the back tuck 5.2: 2 = 2.6 cm and set the points B5 and B6. We connect point B4 with points B5 and B6.

Equalize the sides of the tuck with a compass along greater side and put point B7.
The sides of the darts can be straight and curved. Their configuration depends on the shape of the buttocks. A figure with flat or lush buttocks, all these are individual features of a particular figure, and this should be the starting point.

In our example, the sides of the back tuck were slightly arched to ensure a good fit on the moderately lush buttocks of our conditional client.

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When determining the length of the lateral tuck, it should be taken into account that the area from the waist to the hips along the lateral line for each person has an individual configuration.

The length of the side tuck depends on the steepness of the hips of a particular person, i.e. the one for whom you are making the pattern.

On average, the length of the side tuck is 15-18cm.
From the point T2 down along the sideline, set aside 16 cm and set the point B8.
From the point T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half the solution of the side tuck 6.8: 2 = 3.4 cm and set the points B9 and B10.

If the value obtained is more than 4 cm, then it is better to make two tucks on the front and back panels of the skirt than to lay everything in the side tucks.

We connect points B9 and B10 with a dotted line to point B8. Using a compass, align the sides of the tuck along greater from the sides and put point B11.

If you are building a pattern for a proportionally folded figure, divide the sides of the tuck in half and set aside 0.3 - 0.5 cm from the marked division points at right angles to the auxiliary lines and draw the side lines with a smooth curve.
If you are dealing with a figure in which the steepness of the hips has its own characteristics, then the lateral line should be brought into line with this steepness. Moreover, this does not mean that the side line should repeat the curves of the figure. Rather, it means that by changing the configuration of the lateral line, one can change the accents, i.e. something to hide, veil and thus achieve the desired visual effect.

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When cutting in places that cause you doubts, increase the allowances for later clarification when trying on and possible correction of cut details.

Finally, we draw the line of the upper cut of the skirt with a concave line with closed tucks. The line of the top cut of the skirt should approach the middle lines at a right angle.

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Construction completed.

This is the basic pattern for a straight skirt.
Based on it, you can create different styles of skirts.

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In the near future, we will present to the attention of our visitors several more methods for constructing a skirt pattern, which, to one degree or another, take into account the features of non-standard figures.

I wish you inspiration and self-confidence.

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The simplest product from which you can start learning to cut and sew is a skirt. Having mastered the construction of the drawing of the base pattern of the skirt, you can move on to more complex patterns. Sewing a skirt is also not difficult. And you probably already sewed on at school. If it wasn't a very good experience, you can always try again.

So, the pattern is the basis of the skirt. Or otherwise - a straight two-seam skirt, on the basis of which you can build and model a skirt of any style. Therefore, it is very important to take measurements correctly, make calculations and build the pattern itself.

To build a pattern, we will need the following measurements:

St - half-circumference of the waist;
Sat - semi-girth of the hips;
Dts - the length of the back to the waist line;
Du.sb - skirt length on the side;
Du.sp - skirt length in front;
Dyu.sz - the length of the skirt at the back;

You can read about how to correctly make all these measurements in the article.

In addition, to build a pattern for the base of the skirt, we will need allowances for a free fit: Fri (increase along the waist line), Pb (increase along the hips line).

I suggest taking a raise
for medium fit:

Fri = 1 cm
Pb = 2 cm

St = 36 cm
Sat = 48 cm
Dts = 40 cm

dv.sb = 55 cm
Du.sp = 52 cm
Du.sz = 53 cm

For an example of building a pattern, I took my measurements, and you immediately calculate according to yours.

To facilitate your task, you can use the calculator table for an accurate calculation of the structure or a ready-made parametric pattern. Press plus to open the tab and learn more. ↓

Ready solution:

Table-calculator for calculating the pattern-base of the skirt

You enter your measurements, and the program automatically calculates all the formulas. You do not have to count in your head or on a calculator and be afraid to make a mistake in the calculation.

290 rub

Building

1. We build a right angle with a vertex at the point T. From the point T down the vertical, lay off the segment: TB \u003d Dts / 2 - 2 \u003d 40/2 - 2 \u003d 18 cm. We draw horizontal lines through points T and B.

2. To the right of point B, we set aside the width of the skirt along the hip line: BB1 \u003d Sb + Pb \u003d 48 + 2 \u003d 50 cm. Draw a vertical line through point B1 (the line of the middle of the front panel of the skirt). When this line intersects with the horizontal T, we get the point T1.

3. The width of the back panel of the skirt at the level of the hips: BB2 \u003d (Sb + Pb) / 2 - 1 \u003d (48 + 2) / 2 - 1 \u003d 24 cm set aside from point B to the right. Through point B2 we draw a vertical and at the intersection with the horizontal T we put point T2.

4. From the point T2 down, set aside the length of the skirt on the side (measuring Du.sb) and set the point H2. T2H2 = Du.sb = 55 cm. Now let's draw a horizontal line through the point H2. At the intersection of this horizontal with the straight line TB we put the point H, with the straight line T1B1 we put H1. Line HH1 is the bottom line of the skirt.

5. From the point H upwards, measure the length of the skirt from the back and put the point T3. HT3 = Du.sz = 53 cm.

6. From point H1 upwards, measure the length of the skirt in front and put point T4. H1T4 \u003d Du.sp \u003d 52 cm. We connect the T3 point with the T2 point, and we connect the T4 point with T2. We have built guide lines for the waist of the front and back halves.

7. Now we calculate the sum of the solutions of the tucks along the waistline ∑B. ∑B \u003d (Sat + Pb) - (St + Fri) \u003d (48 + 2) - (36 + 1) \u003d 50 - 37 \u003d 13 cm.

8. The side tuck solution is equal to half the sum of the tuck solutions = 1/2 ∑B = 13/2 = 6.5 cm. T2 to the left along the line T2T3 we set aside the segment T2T5 \u003d 6.5 / 2 \u003d 3.25 cm.

9. We decorate the side seam of the skirt: from point B2 we set aside 2 cm upwards and put point B3, which we connect with straight lines to points T5 and T6. We draw the sides of the side tuck with smooth convex lines.

The width of the skirt at the bottom is determined by the model. If you plan to sew a straight skirt, then the width of the panel along the bottom line will be equal to the width of the panel along the hip line, that is, HH2 = BB2 and H1H2 = B1B2. If your skirt is slightly expanded towards the bottom, set aside 2-6 cm from the H2 point in both directions (depending on the size of the expansion) and set the H3H4 points. Thus, the width of the rear panel along the bottom line \u003d HH3, the width of the front panel along the bottom line \u003d H1H4. We connect points H3 and H4 with point B2.

We take a marker and draw out the lines of the side seams: the side seam of the back half T5B3B2N3 - the skirt is expanded to the bottom (T5B3B2N - straight skirt), the side seam of the front half T6B3B2N4 - the skirt is expanded to the bottom (T6B3B2N - straight skirt).

10. Next, we find the position of the tuck on the back panel of the skirt: from point B to the right, set aside the segment BB4 = 0.4 × BB2 = 0.4 × 24 = 9.6 cm. From point B4 upwards, we restore the perpendicular, at the intersection of which with the line T3T2 we set point T7.

11. The solution of the back tuck is: 1/3∑B = 1/3 × 13 = 4.3 cm.

12. From the point T7 on both sides, we set aside half the solution of the back tuck, that is, 4.3 / 2 = 2.15 cm and set the points T71T72.

13. From point T7 down, set aside the length of the back tuck = 13-15 cm and set point B6. We connect the points T71B6T72 with smooth convex lines (circle with a marker).

14. Next, we find the position of the tuck on the front panel of the skirt: from point B1 to the left, set aside the segment B1B5 = 0.4 × B1B2 = 0.4 × 26 = 10.4 cm. From point B5 upwards, restore the perpendicular, at the intersection of which with the line T2T4 we put point T8.

15. The solution of the front tuck is: 1/6∑B = 1/6 × 13 = 2.16 cm.

The sum of all three tuck solutions should be equal to the value of ∑B. Let's check: 6.5 + 4.3 + 2.16 = 12.96 ≈ 13 cm.

16. From the point T8 on both sides, we set aside half the solution of the front tuck, that is, 2.16 / 2 ≈ 1.1 cm and set the points T81T82.

17. From point T8 down, set aside the length of the front tuck = 10-12 cm and set point B7. We connect the points T81B7T82 with smooth convex lines (circle with a marker).

We finally draw the top edge of the skirt with a concave line. We draw a marker around the upper edge of the skirt, the lines of the middle of the front and back panel and the bottom line.

The pattern-base of the skirt is ready. Did everything work out for you? If you have questions, ask in the comments.

In the future, I will teach you how to create various, interesting models of skirts based on this pattern.

I wish you all success in our pleasant, and most importantly, useful lesson in cutting and sewing!

The construction of a straight skirt can be carried out by any novice dressmaker. This is the simplest product, so even a sixth grade student of an ordinary high school can do it. can be cut and sewn very quickly. There are no many small details here, as on a blouse, darts are easy to calculate and execute. The basis of a straight skirt pattern is always useful. After all, with its help, in the future, you can learn how to model a variety of skirts - wedges, godet, with all kinds of inserts and folds, frills. In other words, sew whatever your heart desires.

In contact with

Of course, you can also take it from a magazine, circle it with a pencil and use it. However, the sizes in the magazines are standard, the features of the figure are not taken into account. If you build a basic pattern for a straight skirt according to individual sizes, then such a skirt will be very comfortable to wear - it doesn’t pull anywhere, ugly folds are not laid. The skirt will sit on the figure "like a glove".

If a beginner dressmaker learns how to build the basis of a straight skirt, then later she will be able to sew not only for herself, but for the whole family. It's great when a young mother knows how to sew. Her daughter will always be different from her friends with beautiful, original and high-quality haute couture clothes of the highest class.

To build a drawing of a straight skirt you will need paper, graph paper is better. For beginners, this makes the job much easier. Meter ruler, with which you can easily draw long segments. Pencil - here you can take an ordinary one. The drawing can be easily wiped with an eraser, if during the check it turns out that you made a mistake with the calculations somewhere. And, of course, scissors to cut the pattern.

To take measurements, you will need a measuring tape and a cord.

Instructions for taking measurements

When taking measurements, the model must be dressed in thin fabric, better in underwear. The model should stand calmly, without straining, arms should be freely lowered down along the torso. Measurements should be taken from the right side of the figure.

To accurately determine the waist and the measurements associated with it, it is necessary to gird the model with a lace around the waist so that it lies strictly horizontally on the figure. The centimeter tape should fit snugly against the figure, but not be too tight.

It is customary to make a pattern only on the right side of the figure, using the same pattern for the left side. Therefore, all measurements of circles are not recorded in full, but in half size. So, if, according to the measurement, the waist circumference turned out to be equal, for example, to 60 cm, then this measurement is recorded as 30 cm. The measurements of the length are completely preserved.

The measurements are written in abbreviated form, in initial letters:

Waist circumference (WC): This measurement is taken at the point that will be the narrowest at the waist;
Hip Circumference (HB): This measurement is taken at the most convex parts of the buttocks and abdomen;
Back to Waist Length (BST): This measurement is taken along the back, placing a centimeter between the shoulder blades, starting at the seventh cervical vertebrae to the drawstring tied at the waist;
Skirt Length (LS): This measurement is taken along the side, starting from the waist to the length you wish;

The two-seam skirt has seams on the sides, a slight expansion at the bottom, waist darts.

Take a look at the photo, here you will see a pattern for the base of a straight skirt. Red here is just a modeled extension of the skirt to the bottom. If you want to draw the base exclusively for a straight skirt, then follow the drawing in black.

For example, take the following dimensions to build the base of the skirt:

OT - 32 (in fact, the full waist circumference in our example will be 64 cm)
ABOUT - 42 cm (in fact, the full circumference of the hips in our example is 84 cm)
DST - 32 cm
CI - 46 cm (a short skirt for a young girl, the length can always be added)

Of course, you write down your measurements and make all further calculations with other numbers.

Step-by-step construction of a pattern grid

The pattern needs to be built according to the initial drawing, which is called the "grid". She, as it were, determines the space in which the cutter will work. The most basic dimensions are applied, and then, on this grid, a pattern is drawn with a pencil.

The width of the mesh will be equal to the OB measure plus a free-fitting allowance (OL) equal to 2 cm, or

OB + PR \u003d 42 + 2 \u003d 44 cm

The length of the mesh is equal to the length of the product, i.e. 46 cm

Having determined the length and width of the grid, we proceed to its construction.

DST/2 -1= 16-1=15 cm.

Divide the line of the hips in half and put a point on it. Then draw an auxiliary line of the side cut through it vertically.
Calculate the waist darts in the following order:
- The total solution of the tucks, or abbreviated as ORV, is equal to the width of the grid minus measurements OT or ORV = (OB + 2) - OT = 44-33 = 11 cm;
- The solution of the tuck-dredging along the side line is equal to half of the total solution or ODS / 2 = 11/2 = 5.5 cm;
- The solution of the tuck on the back half of the skirt is equal to a quarter of the total solution plus 1 cm, or ODS / 4 + 1 = 11 / 4 + 1 = 4.75 cm;
- The solution of the tuck on the front half of the skirt is equal to a quarter of the total solution minus one centimeter, or ORV / 4-1 \u003d 11 / 4-1 \u003d!, 75 cm.

Note: When calculating waist darts, the OT measurement is taken without an increase in free fit, since the skirt should be held tightly at the waist.

Construction of the back half of the skirt

Draw a tuck on the back half:

From the midline, measure along the waist line to the right and to the left along half of the tuck solution, i.e. 1.9 cm;
Place the center of the tuck three centimeters higher, above the hip line; draw the sides of the tuck along inclined straight lines.

From the auxiliary side line, set aside half of the tuck-notch solution along the waist line to the left, or 5.5: 2 = 2.75 cm; connect this point with a convex curve to the middle of the hip line;
From the auxiliary line of the side, half of the accepted extension should be set aside along the bottom, or 6: 2 \u003d 3 cm, to the right side; connect the point that you calculated with a straight line to the middle of the hip line;
Extend the side cut line beyond the waist line by 1 cm; connect this point with a concave curve to the upper right point of the waist tuck.

Draw a line for the bottom of the back half: shorten the side cut line by half a centimeter; convex curve with the bottom point of the middle of the back half of the skirt.

Building the front of the skirt

Draw a tuck on the front:

Draw a side cut line:

From the auxiliary side line, set aside half of the solution of the side tuck-notch to the right at the waist, i.e. 5.5/2=2.75cm; connect this point with a convex curve to the middle of the hip line;
From the auxiliary side line, set aside half of the accepted extension along the bottom to the left, i.e. 3 cm; the resulting point must be connected to the middle of the hip line;
Extend the side cut beyond the mesh up by 1 cm; connect this point with a concave curve to the upper left point of the waist tuck.

Draw a line from the bottom of the front: equalize the side cut of the front along the length with the side cut of the back half; lengthen the line of the middle of the front down by 1 cm; connect the resulting point with a convex curve to the alignment point of the side seam.

Economical spending depends on the correct layout of the pattern on it. First on fabric arrange large parts- front and back of the skirt, and then, between large parts, small ones are placed - pockets, a belt for a skirt, facings.

When laying out between the details of the pattern, leave the space necessary for seam allowances, since these allowances are not provided in the pattern.

For a skirt, allowances in centimeters are recommended depending on the location of the seam in the product. On the side cuts - from two and a half to three centimeters. Along the cut of the waist - from two to four centimeters, along the bottom for hem - from four to eight centimeters.

Having laid out the details of the pattern on the fabric, taking into account allowances for the seams and pinning them with pins to the fabric, make a chalk along the contours of the pattern. Having measured the allowances for the seams from the made chalk, they make a second chalk, along which the fabric is cut. When cutting, tucks are not cut out on the fabric, but they must be circled.

For edging, it is better to use a special pencil, which makes it easy to transfer all tucks and cuts to the second half of the fabric.

You need to lay out the pattern taking into account the pattern of the fabric. Especially difficult for cutting will be fabrics with a large pattern - a cage and a strip. Fitting the pattern in details and seams leads to additional consumption of fabric, this must be remembered and not made a mistake when cutting. In this case, you need to focus on the shared thread of the fabric itself.

As statistics show, most women do not start sewing because of the need to build basic patterns. This is the stumbling block that breaks intentions and causes complexity. Some people think that building a pattern requires a lot of time, others - that it is generally incomprehensible knowledge, which is given only to the elite to understand. We intend to dispel all your doubts and give you a step-by-step construction of patterns of the basics: skirt, dress, jacket, coat and trousers. Following our instructions, step by step, you can easily build any pattern.

Let's start with the simplest - step-by-step construction of a straight skirt pattern.

To build a skirt pattern, you need to take measurements:

Skirt length (DU) ………………………72 cm

Waist circumference (FROM) ………..72 cm

Hips (OB) ……… 100 cm

Step 1-2:

In the upper left corner on graph paper (departing from the top 5 cm), put a point A. Down the vertical line, set aside the length of the skirt according to the measurements - AD. To the right - 1/2 of the circumference of the hips according to the measure + 1 cm = 100/2 + 1 = 51 cm - point B. Draw segments DC and BC.

Skirt side line. Divide segment DC in half, from the point of division, lift up the perpendicular to segment AB.

Step 3-4:

Hip line. From point A, lay down 20-22 cm - AL \u003d length of the hips according to the measure. From the resulting point, draw a horizontal line. Got points L1 and L2.

Calculation of darts. The tucks are calculated by the formula: (Hip circumference minus waist circumference)/2=(100-72)/2=14cm. Of these 14 cm, we remove half into the side tucks (14/2 = 7 cm) - 3.5 cm each. From the side line, draw 2 straight segments to points 3.5, lengthening each one by 1 cm.

Step 5-6:

Connect point A with point 1 according to the pattern of the point (this is the point that turned out after raising the side lily by 1 cm) and point 1 (another) with point B with slightly curved lines. Divide LL2 in half and raise the perpendicular from the division point to segment AB. From point B1, set aside to the right along the red line - 5-6 cm (for all sizes), lower the perpendicular down to the line of the hips.

Step 7-8:

Final calculation of tucks: Distribute the remaining excess fabric along the waist (7 cm) into the darts of the back and front halves of the skirt - a little more in the back half and a little less in the front, respectively 4 and 3 cm. The length of the tuck on the back half of the skirt is 12-13 cm. The length of the tuck on the front half of the skirt is 9-10 cm. Take the tuck to the left by 0.5 cm (for beauty).